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A 
COMPENDIOUS  AND  COMPLETE 

SYSTEM 

OF 

MODERN  GEOGRAPHY, 

OR    A 

Vieiv  of  the  Present  State 

OF 

THE  WORLD. 

BEING  A  FAITHFUL  ABRIDGEMENT  OF  THE  AMERICAN  tTNIVERSAL  GE06» 

RAPHY,  (EDITION  OF  1812,)  WITH  CORRECTIONS  AND  ADDITIONS 

MAD£  FROM  INFORMATION  SINCE  RECEIVED. 


BY  JEDIDIAH  MORSE,  D.  D.  A.  A.  8c  S.  H.  &  S.  A.  Soc, 

Author  of  the  Amcricoit  Uiurei'sal  Geography,  American  Gazetteer,  &c.  J'ic. 


ILLUSTRATED    BY 

A  REPRESENTATION  OF  THE  SOLAR  SYSTEM, 

AND    SIX    MAPS    OF 
THE  PRINCIPAL  DIVISIONS  OF  THE  GLOBE, 


BOSTON  : 

PUBLISHED  BY  THOMAS  AND  ANDREWS, 

And  soM  at  their  Bookstore,  No.  45,  N«;wbury-Street ;  by  EASTBUHN,  KIRIC,  &  Ce~ 
J^sif-Kork  ;  M.  CAREY,  Philadelplua  ;  and  the  BootKUeis  generally.— Jan.  1814. 

Joseph  T.  Buckineham,  Priutsj-. 


A 

COMPENDIOUS  AND  COMPLETE 

SYSTEM 

OF 

♦MODERN   GEOGRAPHY. 

OR     A 

Fieiv  of  the  Present  State 

OF 

THE  WORLD. 

BEING  A  FAITHFUL  ABRIDGEMENT  OF  THE  AMERICAN  UNIVERSAL  GEO©. 
RAPHY,  (EDITION  OF  1812,)  WITH  CORRECTIONS  AND  ADDITIONS 
MADE  FROM  INFORMATION  SINCE  RECEIVED.       ' 


BY  JEDIDIAH  MORSE,  D.  D.   A.  A.  &  S.  H.  Ec  S.  A.  Soc, 

Author  of  the  American  Univeisal  Geography,  American  Gazetteer,  &c.  kc. 


ILLUSTRATED    BY 

A  REPRESENTATION  OF  THE  SOLAR  SYSTEM, 

AND    SIX    MAPS    OF 
THE  PRINCIPAL  DIVISIONS  OF  THE  GLOBE, 


BOSTON  : 

PUBLISHED  BY  THOMAS  AND  ANDREWS, 

AskI  soM  at  their  Bookstore,  No.  45,  Nfwbury-Street ;  by  EASTBUBN,  KIRK,  Se  Ce- 

>'ew."Vork  ;  M.  CAREY,  Philailelpliia  ;  and  the  BooltKUars  generally.— Jan.  1814. 

Joseph  T.  Buckinghaun,  Priatcr. 


DISTRICT  OF  MASSACHUSET1 S,  to  wit : 
^  _  District  Clerk's  OJke, 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  that  on  the  seventh  day  of  January,  A,  D.  1814,  Had  in  the  thirty 
sl^hth  year  of  the  independence  of  the  United  States  of  America  Jedidiah  Morse,  of  the  said  dis- 
trict, has  deposited  in  this  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whtivof  he  claims  as  author  in  tJie 
■words  following,  to  wii :  "  A  toinpendioin  and  complete  System  of  Modem  Geography,  Ov  a 
View  of  the  present  State  of  the  World.  Beinp  a  ftithfiil  Abridgement  of  the  American  Uuivei-sa! 
Geography  (edition  of  1812)  with  Corrections  and  Additions  made  from  InfonnatioD  since  received.- 
By  Jedidiah  Morse.  D.  D.  A.  A.  &  S.  H.  &  S.  A.  Soc.  Author  of  the  American  Universal  G«ogra" 

?hy,  American  Gazetteer,  &c  &c.    Illustrated  by  a  Representation  of  the  Solar  System,  and  six 
laps  of  the  principal  Divisions  of  the  Globe.'' 

In  Conformity  to  the  act  of  the  congress  of  the  United  States,  iutitled,  "  an  act  for  the  encour- 
agement of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  authors  and  proprie- 
lors  of  such  copies,  during  the  time-  therein  mentioned ;"  and  also  to  an  act  intitled,  "  an  act  sap- 
plementar)'  to  au  act.  intitled,  "in  act  for  the  encouragement  of  lianiing.  by  securing  the  copies 
of  maps,  cliarts,  and  books,  to  the  authors  aud  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein 
mentioned  ;  and  extending  die  beuctits  thereof'  to  the  arts  of  desiguing,  engraving  aud  etching  tii&' 
tocicftl,  vid  oUier  prints." 

WILLIAM  S.  sn  AW,  Clerk  of  the  District  of  Massachusetts > 


ADVERTISEMENT, 


THIS  volume  has  been  compiled  and  published  at 
Ihe  solicitation  of  a  number  of  the  author's  judicious 
literary  friends  and  correspondents,  with  a  view  to  ac- 
commodate those  famihes  with  a  system  of  geography, 
(a  work  which  has  become  almost  necessary,  to  all  who 
take  an  interest  in  the  wonderful  events  of  the  present 
times)  whose  means  are  inadequate  to  the  purchase  of 
his  larger  work  ;  and  also,  and  particularly,  to  furnish 
academies,  and  public  and  private  schools  of  a  higher 
grade,  than  those  in  which  his  smaller  abridgement  is 
used,  with  a  volume  of  a  size  and  kind  suited  to  their 
more  enlarged  scale  of  instruction.  Such  a  volume,  of 
moderate  size  and  price,  the  author  has  abundant  reason 
to  believe,  has  long  been  considered  as  a  desideratum 
among  the  classical  books  of  our  country.  If  it  shall  be 
found,  as  the  author  hopes,  that  this  work  fills  this  blank 
in  the  list  of  our  books  of  useful  instruction,  his  design, 
:vill  be  accoinplished. 

Charlestoivn^  Jan.  X^  1814. 


■7*>'>0  *;:./■ 


INDEX. 

ABYSSINIA 

640 

Berlin    , 

436 

Acapulco 

280 

Bermudas 

360 

Africa 

622 

Birman  Empire 

554 

Agra 

578 

Bokhara 

597 

Albany 

169 

Bologna 

500 

Albemarle  sound 

109 

Bombay 

580 

Aleppo 

520 

Bootan 

544 

Alexandria  (Egypt) 

.    634 

Borneo 

608 

Algiers 

627 

Boston 

141 

Alligator  swamp 

113 

Bourbon  island 

660 

Amazon  river 

'65 

Bourdeaux  . 

451 

Amazonia 

338 

Brazil 

339 

Amboyna  isjand 

611 

Brcslau 

435 

America 

54 

Brest 

451 

American  islands 

360 

British  Empire 

370 

Amsterdam 

439 

Brunswick 

461 

Andes  mountains 

70 

Brussels 

443 

Anhalt,  house  of 

463 

Bucharia 

b^^l 

Antigua 

306 

Buda 

4,70 

Antwerp 

443 

Buenos  Ayres 

344 

Apalachian  mountains 

113 

Cabul 

579 

Arabia 

599 

Cadiz 

483 

Arkansas  river 

268 

Calcutta 

577 

Arrowauks  Indians, 

329 

Cahokia 

206 

Asia 

516 

California  gulf 

60 

Asphallites  lake 

523 

mountains 

71 

Astrachan 

527 

Cairo 

633 

Atlantic  ocean 

,     52 

Cambodia 

547 

Australasia 

612 

Canaries 

659 

Austria 

466 

Candia 

514 

Ava 

558 

Canton 

535 

Babelmandel 

364 

Cape  Bretcn 

92 

Babylon 

521 

Cape  of  Good  Hop© 

645 

Baffin's  bay 

59 

Caraccas 

322 

Bagdad 

521 

Caribbean  islands 

303 

Bahamas 

289 

Carthagena 

317 

Ballsiown  springs 

173 

Cashmir 

579 

Baltic  sea 

363 

Caspian  sea 

365 

Baltimore 

212 

Casscl 

46  i 

Barbadoes 

SIC 

Cayenne 

330 

Barbuda 

305 

Cayuga  river 

199 

Barca 

631 

Caxamarca 

f  O  f 

Barcelona 

482 

Celcbe2ian  islands 

610 

Barcelona  (Venezuela) 

323 

Ceylon  island 

584 

Basil 

476 

Champlain  lake 

113 

Bavaria 

464 

Charleston  (Souih-Cai 

olina)  244 

Bayonne 

452 

Cherokee  Indians 

257 

Bayreuth 

466 

Chesapeake  bay 

108 

Belgvade 

512 

Chickasaws 

257 

Bennington 

J2l 

Chili 

351 

Eurampooter  river 

367 

Cliimborazo 

70 

China 

INUJ 
532 

t!.A.. 

Euxine  sea 

V 

662 

Choc  taws 

257 

Falkland  islands 

361 

Ciampa 

548 

Ferro  islands 

417 

Cochin 

582 

Fishery  of  Newfoundland 

84 

Cochhi  China 

548 

Fixed  stars 

32 

Coimbra 

493 

Fiorence 

498 

Colombo- 

585 

Floridas 

273 

Colorado  river 

69,  358 

Formosa  island 

537 

Columbia  District 

215 

Fox  islands 

74 

Columbia  river 

69 

France 

445 

Comets 

29 

Frankfort 

466 

Connecticut 

153 

French  Guiana 

32S 

river 

110,161 

Gallapagos 

351 

Constantinople 

511 

Ganges 

367 

Contiucnis 

51 

Geneva 

477 

Copenhagen 

415 

Genoa 

498 

Coperuican  system 

20 

Georgia 

249 

Corea 

541 

Germany 

456 

Cork 

401 

Ghent 

443 

Corsica 

454 

Gibraltar 

489 

Coos  iijland 

524 

straits 

364 

Creek  Indians 

257 

Gilolo  island 

610 

Cuba 

293 

Glasgow 

293 

Cumberland  river 

110 

Globes  and  their  use 

34 

Curacoa 

314 

Goa 

583 

Cusco 

334 

Gottingen 

161 

Cyprus 

524 

Governments  of  America 

58 

Damascus 

520 

Granada 

483 

Danish  America 

75 

Greenland 

77 

Danish  Empire 

407 

Green  mountains 

114 

Dantzic 

464 

Grenada 

3H 

Danube  river 

367 

Guadaloupe 

.S07 

Dardanelles 

364 

Guatemala 

284 

Delaware  stat^ 

182 

Guayaquil 

:517 

Denmark 

412 

Guernsey  isle 

388 

Deseada 

308 

Guiana 

327 

Detroit 

201 

Gulf  stream 

60 

Divisions  of  the  earth 

51 

Hague 

440 

Dominir.o  St. 

295 

Halifax 

SS 

Dominica 

308 

Hanoverian  states 

461 

Dresden 

460 

Hartford 

158 

Dublin 

401 

Harvard  College 

138 

Dutch  Guiana 

327 

Havanna 

294 

Eartli 

23,49 

Hayti 

295 

jEtna,  mount 

504 

Heckla  mountain 

77 

Edinburgh 

393 

Helena  St. 

650 

Egypt 

633 

Hesse,  grand  duchy  of 

462 

Elizabeth  islands 

148 

Hindostan 

566 

England 

371 

Hispaniohi 

295 

English  Guiana 

328 

Holland 

437 

Eiie  lake 

63 

Hudson  river 

no 

Essequebo  river 

331 

sea 

59 

Euphrates  river 

593 

Hudson 

169 

Europe 

369 

Huron  lake 

62 

vi 

INDEX. 

Jamaicft 

298 

Malta 

506 

Japan 

550 

Manillas 

609 

Java 

607 

Mantna 

500 

Iceland 

75 

Maps  and  their  use 

42 

Jcdctu 

602 

Mari  gal  ante 

308 

Jersey  isle 

3€8 

Maracaibo 

32S 

Jerusakm 

521 

Marietta 

198 

Illinois  river 

109 

Marseilles 

450 

territory 

205 

Martha's  Vineyard 

108 

Indian  ocean 

52 

Martinico 

309 

Indiana  territory- 

203 

Maryland 

209 

Interesting  tables 

661 

Massac  fort 

207 

Ionian  republic 

507 

Massachusetts 

134 

Ireland 

399 

Mauritius 

660 

Isle  of  Shoals 

129 

M'Kenzie's  river 

69 

Isle  of  Man 

388 

Mecca 

602 

Isle  of  Wight 

388 

Medina 

602 

Ispahan 

590 

Mediterranean  sea 

362 

Italy 

495 

Mecklenburg,  house  of 

46:2 

Juggernaut 

580 

Mexico 

277 

Ivica 

488 

gulf 

60 

Julian  calendar 

47 

Michigan  lake 

63 

Kamtchatka  sound 

364 

territory 

200 

Kaskaskias 

206 

Michilimackinac 

203 

Kentucky 

225 

Milan 

500 

.Kingston  (Upper-Canada) 

86 

Miles,  length  of  in  differ- 

Lakes of  America 

61 

ent  countries 

45 

La  Plata 

347 

Mindanao 

609 

river                   68 

,349 

Minorca 

48,8 

La  Guira 

32S 

Missisippi  river 

65 

JLa  Pas 

347 

territory- 

200 

Lapland 

405 

Missouri  river 

65 

Leghorn 

499 

Mobile  river 

112 

■Leipsic 

460 

Modena 

500 

Leoo  Kcoo  islands 

549 

Moluccas 

610 

JL,eydcn 

440 

Montserrat 

307 

Lima 

S34 

IMonireal 

82 

Liverpool 

380 

Monte  Video 

345 

Long  island 

174 

Morocco 

629 

sound 

108 

Moosehead  lake 

134 

Louisburg 

93 

Munich 

467 

Louisiana 

260 

Nankin 

534 

"Low  Countries 

437 

Nantucket 

147 

Lower-Canada 

80 

Naples  kingdom 

501 

Xucca 

499 

Narragansett  bay 

108 

Lyons 

451 

Nassau 

290 

Madagascar 

658 

Natchez  Indians 

257 

Madeira 

659 

Navigator's  islands 

615 

Mad.id 

482 

Naxia 

515 

Magdeburg 

461 

Nepavil 

545 

Majorca 

488 

Netherlands 

442 

Maine  District 

130 

Newbern  (North -Carolina) 

332 

Malaga 

484 

Newark  (Upper-Canada) 

86 

Malava 

560 

New-Bedford 

143 

Hew-Brkain 

New-Britain  (N.  America) 

New-Biunswick 

New-Caledonia 

Newfoundland 

New-Granada 

New-Hampshire 

New-Haven 

NewHoliand 

New-Ireland 

Nc  w- Jersey 

New-London 

New -Mad  rid 

New-Orleans 

Newport 

New-York 

city 
New-Zealand 
Nevis 
Niagara  river  1 1 

fort 
Kiger 
Nile 
Norfolk  island 

(Virginia) 
North-America 
North-Carolina 
Northern  ocean 

Northwest  Coast 

Norway 

Nova-Zembla 

Nova-Scotia 

Nubia 

©paro  isles 

Oporto 

Oceans,  account  of 

Gkefonoco  swamp 

Ohio 

river 

Ontario  lake 

Orkney  islands 

Oronoco  river 

Otaheite 

Owhyhee 

Pacific  ocean 

Palermo 

Pamlico  sound 

Panama 

Papua 

Parana  river 

Paria,  gulf  of 

Paris 

Parma 

Paramaribo 


.INDEX. 

615  Patagonia 

79  Patna 

9 1  Pearl  river 

615  Pegu 

84  Pekin 

315  Pclew  isles 

124  Pennsylvania 

158  Penobscot  rivey 

612  Pensacola 

615  Pei'nambuco 
175  Persia 

159  Peru 

265  Petersburg  (Russia) 

265  Philippine  islands 

151  Philadelphia 

162  Pisa 

1 68  Flacentia 

616  Poland 
306  Polynesia 

6,  64  Porto  Bello 

64  Porto  Cavallo 

366  Porto  Rico 

365  Porto  Santo  island 

613  Portland 

221  Ponchartrain  lake 

'  7 1  Portsmouth  (N,  Hampshir 

229  Port  Royal 

52  Portugal 

74  Portuguese  Guiana 

407  Potosi 

43 1  Potowmac  river 

87  Prague 

637  Presque  isle 

62 1  Princeton  (New-Jersey) 

493  Providence 

52  Prussia 

256  Pyramids  of  Egyp'c 

196  Ptolemaic  system 

109  Pyrenees 

64  Quebec 

598  Queenstov/n 

69  Quito 

620  Raisin  river 

619  Raleigh 

52  Rappahannoc  river 

503  Rariton  river 

103  Red  sea 

3  i  7  Red  river 

614  Religions,  account  of 
S50  Rhode  Island 

324  Rliodes 

450  Richmond 

499  Riga 

SSQ  BXQ  Janeiro 


vu 

358 

577 
259 
558= 

534 
617 
186 
1  33 
274 
342 
586 
332 
428 
609 
192 
499 

84 
431 
617 
317 
323 
GOi 
659 
131 
•276 
■e)  126 
300 
490 
323 
346 
Hi 
470 

63 
180 
151 
432 
632 

19 
454 
•82 

S€ 
o  1  7 
203 
232 
225 
181 
363- 
26g. 

49 
148- 
524 
221 
428. 


Tiii 

INDEX. 

Rio  Negro 

359 

Switzerland 

475 

Roanoke  river 

112 

Syrian  Christians 

584 

Rome 

498 

Tangier 

625 

Russian  Empire 

424 

Tartary 

595 

America 

73 

Tchoka 

540 

Saba 

505 

Tennessee 

234 

Salonika 

512 

river 

109 

Samaicar.d 

597 

Terra  del  Fuego 

360 

Sandusky  river 

200 

Tibet 

541 

Sandwich  isles 

619 

Tides 

44 

Santa  Cruz 

304 

Tigris 

593 

Santa  Fe  de  Bogota 

3i7 

Timor 

608 

Santa  Martha 

318 

Tobago 

312 

Santee  river 

112 

Tottola 

304 

Santorini 

515 

Tranquebar 

5a2 

Sardinia 

505 

Tripoli 

631 

Savannah  river 

112,  252 

Trenton 

179 

Saxony 

459 

Trinidad 

312 

Scheldt 

444 

Trois  Rivieres 

82 

Scioto  river 

199 

Truxillo 

334 

Scotland 

388 

Tunis 

630 

Seringapatam 

582 

Turin 

499 

Siam 

562 

Turkey  in  Asia 

519 

Sicily 

505 

in  Europe 

509 

Smyrna 

520 

Tychonic  system 

20 

Socotra  isle 

661 

Tyre 

521 

Solomon  islands 

615 

Valdivia 

355 

Solar  system 

19 

Valencia 

482 

South-America 

315 

Van  Diemcn's  Land 

616 

South-Carolina 

240 

Ubes  St. 

493 

Southern  Georgia 

361 

Venice 

500 

Southern  states 

209 

Venezuela 

319 

Spain 

478 

Vera  Cruz 

280 

Spanish  America 

269 

Vermont 

118 

Guiana 

327 

Vernon  mount 

221 

Spitzbergen 

73 

Vesuvius  mount 

498 

Spice  islands 

610 

Vienna 

470 

St.  Bartholomew 

305 

Vincenncs 

204 

St.  Christophers 

306 

Virginia 

217 

St.  Lucia 

310 

Virgin  isles 

303 

St.  Martin's 

305 

United  States 

94 

St.  Eustatius 

305 

Upper-Canada 

85 

St.  Domingo 

295 

Uraguay  river 

350 

St.  Jago 

354 

Utrecht 

440 

St.  John's 

84 

Wabash  river 

110 

St.  Lawrence  gulf 

60 

Vv  ashington  city 

215 

St.  Thomas 

304 

Warsaw 

460 

Stockholm 

421 

West-Indies 

285 

Suez 

602,  634 

Westphalia 

460 

Sumatra 

606 

Winnipiseogec  lake 

129 

Susquehannah  river 

111 

Wurtemberg 

465 

Superior  lake 

62 

Xarayes  lake 

65 

Surat 

.'580 

Yale  College 

157 

S\Yeden 

418 

Zealand  island 

413 

INTRODUCTION, 


RISE    AND    PROGRESS    OF    GEOGRAPHY. 

GEOGRAPHY  is  a  term,*  derived  from  the  Greek  language, 
and  literally  signifies  a  deacrifition  of  the  earth.  It  treats  of 
the  nature,  figure,  and  magnitude  of  the  earth  ;  the  situation,  ex- 
tent, and  appearance  of  different  parts  of  its  surface  ;  its  produc- 
tions and  inhabitants. 

The  time  when  attention  was  first  paid  to  the  pleasing  a«d  use- 
ful study  of  geography,  is  unknown.  It  seems  to  be  the  general 
opinion,  that  the  Greeks,  who  were  the  first  cultivators  of  this  sci- 
ence in  Europe,  received  it  either  from  the  Egyptians  or  Babyloni- 
nians  ;  but  it  cannot  be  determined  to  which  of  these  two  nations 
belongs  the  honor  of  having  invented  it. 

Geography  was  very  imperfect  in  its  beginning,  and  has  advanc- 
ed slowly  towards  its  present  degree  of  perfection.  The  true  fig- 
ure of  the  earth  wai  unknown  to  its  first  inhabitants,  and  the  earli- 
est opinion  seems  to  have  been  that,  which  would  most  naturally 
result  from  the  first  information  given  by  the  senses.  It  was  con- 
sidered as  a  large  circular  plane  ;  and  the  heavens,  in  which  the 
sun,  moon,  and  stars  appear  daily  to  move  from  east  to  west,  were 
supposed  not  to  be  elevated  to  a  very  great  height  above  it,  and  to 
have  been  created  solely  for  its  use  and  ornament.  It  is  not  known 
who  first  rejected  this  erroneous  hypothesis,  and  shewed  that  the 
figure  of  the  earth  is  spherical ;  but  it  seems  to  have  been  done  at 
a  time  of  remote  antiquity. 

It  appears  that  the  situation  of  places  was  first  determined  accord- 
ing to  climates  ;  and  that  geographers  were  then  guided,  in  fixing 
on  the  climates.,  by  the  form  and  colour  of  certain  animals,  which 
were  to  be  found  in  different  countries.  The  appearance  of  Ne- 
groes, or  what  they  called  Ethiopians,  and  of  the  larger  sized  ani- 
mals, as  the  rhinoceros  and  elephant,  suggested  to  them  the  north- 
ern and  southern  limits  of  the  torrid  zone.  A  different  and  more 
scientific  method  was  used  by  the  Egyptians  and  Babyloniuns,  who 
determined  the  situation  of  places,  or  their  distance  from  the  equa- 
tor, by  observing  the  length  of  their  longest  and  shortest  days.  And 
ihese  observations  were  made  with  a  species  of  sun-dial,  having  a 
stilus  ov  griomon,  erected  perpendicularly  upon  a  horizontal  plane, 
by  which  the  length  of  the  shadow  of  the  gnomon,  in  proportion  to 
its  height,  might  be  measured. 

It  may  be  conjectured  that  travelling.,  soon  after  it  began  Ca  be 
much  practised  in  the  world,  gave  rise  to  a  kind  of  geography. 

*  Vv^yfK(^ix,  from  y~i  ths  caftb,  and  vp»p  to  describe, 


10  INTRODUCTION. 

Some,  Avho  bad  performed  joumies,  made  a  rough  sketch  or  de- 
scription of  their  routs,  for  the  information  of  others  who  might  af- 
terward wish  to  travel  in  the  same.  The  earliest  specimen  of  this 
kind,  of  which  we  have  an  account,  is  that  of  Sesostris,  an  Egyp- 
tian king  and  conqueroi",  who,  as  Eustathitis  relates,  "  having  trav° 
ersed  great  part  of  the  earth,  recorded  his  march  in  maps,  "and  gave 
copies  of  his  maps  not  only  to  the  Egyptians,  but  to  the  Scythians, 
to  their  great  astonishment."  Sonne  have  imagined  that  the  Jews 
made  a  map  of  tlie  Holy  Land,  when  they  gave  the  different  por- 
tions to  the  nine  tribes  at  Shiloh  ;  for  Joshua  tells  us,  that  they 
w-ere  sent  to  walk  through  the  land,  and  that  they  described  it  irs 
seven  fiarts  in  a  book. 

Homer  was  first  distinguished  among  the  Greeks  for  his  knowl- 
edge of  the  different  nations  of  the  earth,  and  the  countries  they 
inhabited.  He  has  described  so  many  places,  and  with  such  a  de- 
g-ree  of  accuracy,  that  Strabo  considered  him  as  first  among  the 
geographers  of  ancient  times. 

A  taste  for  the  sciences  led  Thales,  the  father  of  Grecian  phi- 
losophy, into  Egypt,  where  he  lived  with  the  priests.  On  his  re- 
lui'n,  he  taught  his  countrymen  that  the  earth  is  globular,  and  may 
be  divided  into  five  zones,  by  means  of  five  parallel  circles,  viz; 
the  equator,  the  two  tropics,  and  the  two  polar  circles  ;  and  that 
the  eqirator  is  cut  obliquely  by  the  ecliptic,  and  perpendicularly  by 
the  meridian.  Thus  he  made  them  acquainted  with  the  principal 
circles  of  tl>e  sphere.*  He  also  taught  them,  that  the  year  con- 
sisted of  365  days,  which  he  learned  from  the  Egyptians. 

Anaximander,  a  disciple  of  Thales,  was  the  author  of  the  first 
Grecian  map  on  record,  which  is  mentioned  by  Strabo.  The 
knowledge  of  the  earth  was  indeed  very  limited  at  that  time,  as  it 
scarcely  extended  beyond  the  temperate  zone,  and  did  not  even 
comprise  the  whole  of  that.  The  extent  of  the  representation  of 
the  Avorld  from  cast  to  west  was  twice  as  great  as  from  south  to 
Borth  ;  hence  the  reason,  why  distances  on  the  earth  in  the  former 
direction  were  denominated  longitude  ;  and  those  in  the  latter,  lat- 
itude.    Maps  were  afterward  muUiplied. 

Eratosthenes  was  the  first,  who  introduced  a  regular  parallel- 
of  latitude.  He  began  it  at  tlie  straights  of  Gibraltcr  ;  continued 
it  through  the  island  of  Rhodes  and  the  bay  of  issus  ;  and  extended 
it  to  the  mountains  of  India.  In  drawing  t'^is  parallel  h-e  was  reg- 
ulated by  observing- \'/here  the  longest  day  was  14|  hours,  which 
ivfas  afterwards  found  by  Plipparchus  to  be  die  latitude  of  36  de- 
grees. 

Eratosthenes  soon  after  attemptctl  not  only  to  draw  other  paral- 
lels of  latitude,  but  also  to  trace  a  meridian  at  rigiit  angles  to  these, 
pas.^iing  through  Rhodes  and  Alexandria  down  to  Syene  and  Meroe; 
and,  as  the  progress  he  tlms  n;ade  naturally  tended  to  enlarge  his 
ideas,  he  at  last  attempted  the  much  more  difficult  operation  of  de- 
termining the  circumference  of  the  globe,  by  an  actual  measure- 
meutof  an  arc  of  one  of  its  great  circles.     He  knew  that  the  sun,' 

*  See  Explanation  of  Terms 


INTRODUCTION.  U 

at  the  summer  solstice,  was  vertical  to  the  inhabitants  of  Syene,  a 
town  on  the  confines  of  Ethiopia,  under  the  tropic  of  Cancer,  where 
tliey  had  a  well  sunk  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  time  of 
the  solstice,  which  would  be  on  the  day  when  the  rays  of  the  sun 
fell  perpendicularly  on  the  bottom  of  the  well.  He  observed  by 
the  shadow  of  a  wire  set  perpendicularly  in  a  hemispherical  bason, 
how  far  the  sun  was  distant  from  the  zenith  of  Alexandria  at  the 
lioon  of  the  same  day  ;  and  found  that  distance  to  be  one  fiftieth 
part  of  a  great  circle  in  the  heavens.  Then  Syene  and  Alexaridria 
being  supposed  to  be  under  the  same  meridian,  he  concluded  the 
distance  between  them  to  be  the  fiftieth  part  of  a  great  circle  upon 
the  earth  ;  and  this  distance  being  by  measure  5000  stadia,  he  con- 
cluded the  circumference  of  the  earth  to  be  250,000  stadia  ;  but, 
as  this  number  divided  by  360  would  give  694—  stadia  to  a  degree, 
either  Eratosthenes  himself,  or  some  of  his  followers,  assigned  the 
round  number  700  stadia  to  a  degree  ;  which  multiplied  by  360, 
makes  the  circumference  of  the  earth  252,000  stadia  ;  whence  both 
these  measures  are  given  by  different  authors  as  that  of  Eratosthe- 
nes- 

The  map  of  Eratosthenes  appears  to  have  contained  little  more 
than  the  states  of  Greece,  and  the  dominions  of  the  successors  of 
Alexander,  digested  from  the  surveys  that  had  been  made. 

TiMOCHARis  and  Aristillus,  who  flourished  about  300  years 
before  the  Christian  era,  seem  to  have  been  the  first  who  attempt- 
-€d  to  fix  the  longitudes  and  latitudes  of  the  fixed  stars,  by  consid- 
ering their  situation  with  respect  to  the  equator.*  One  of  their  ob- 
servations gave  rise  to  the  discovery  of  the  precession  of  the  equi- 
noxes, which  was  made  by  Hipparchus  about  150  years  afterward  ; 
and  he  made  use  of  their  method  in  order  to  delineate  the  paral- 
lels of  latitude  and  the  meridians  on  the  surface  of  the  earth  ; 
thus  laying  the  first  solid  foundation  of  the  science  of  geography, 
as  we  have  it  at  the  present  time,  and  uniting  it  more  closely  to 
astronomy. 

Although  latitudes  and  longitudes  were  thus  introduced  by  Hip- 
parchus, it  does  not  appear  that  any  subsequent  writers  on  the  sub- 
ject attended  to  them  before  the  time  of  Ptolemy.  At  the  begin- 
ning of  the  second  Punic  war,  according  to  Polvbius,  when  Hanni- 
bal was  preparing  for  his  expedition  against  Rome,  by  crossing 
from  Africa  into  Spain,  and  so  through  Gaul  into  Italy,  the  Romans 
measured  or  surveyed  all  these  places  with  the  greatest  care.  Ju- 
lius Caesar  caused  a  general  survey  to  be  made  of  the  whole  Ro- 
man empire,  by  a  decree  of  the  senate.  Three  surveyors,  v/ho 
were  said  to  have  been  very  wise  men  and  accomplished  pbiloso- 
phers,  were  appointed  to  this  business,  and  to  each  was  assigned  a 
different  division  of  the  empire.  Zenodoxus  completed  his  survey 
of  the  eastern  part  of  the  empire  in  14  years,  5  months,  and  9  days; 
Theodotus  finished  the  northern  part  in  20  years,  8  months,  and  10 

*  The  longitudes  and  latitudes  of  the  stars  were  referred  to  the  equator  both 
by  Timocharis  and  Hipparchus;  and  never  uniformly  to  the  ecliptic,  till  after 
the  precession  of  the  equinoxes  was  fully  established  by  Ptolemy. 


12  INTRODUCTION. 

days  ;  and  PolyclltuS)  the  southern  part  in  25  years,  1  month,  and 
10  days.  This  survey  was  begun  iu  the  year  44,  and  finished  in 
the  year  19,  before  Christ. 

Strabo  and  Ptolemt  were  the  most  eminent  of  the  ancient 
geographers.  Strabx)  relates  very  little  more  than  he  saw  himself ; 
he  made  a  vast  number  of  voyages  to  obtain  the  information  that 
was  necessary,  in  order  to  give  the  requisite  certainty  to  his  ac- 
counts, and  is  very  short  in  what  he  relates  from  others.  He  was 
a  philosopher,  as  well  as  a  geographer.  Good  sense,  perspicuity, 
accuracy,  and  solidity  of  judgement,  are  visible  in  every  part  of 
his  works.  The  geography  of  Ptolemy  is  more  extensive  ;  it  takes 
in  a  greater  part  of  the  earth,  while  it  seems  to  be  equally  circum- 
stantial every  where  ;  but  this  extent  renders  it  liable  to  more  er- 
Tors.  He  had  the  merit  of  carrying  into  full  execution  and  prac- 
tice die  invention  of  Hipparchus,  for  designating  the  situation  of 
places  on  the  earth  by  latitude  and  longitude,  after  it  had  lain  dor- 
mant upward  of  250  years ;  and  thus  he  greatly  advanced  the  state 
of  the  science. 

The  Roman  empire  had  been  enlarged  to  its  greatest  extent, 
and  all  its  provinces  well  known  and  surveyed,  when  Ptolemy,  a- 
bout  150  years  after  Christ,  composed  his  system  of  geography. 
The  principal  materials  used  in  composing  this  work  were,  the 
proportions  of  the  gnomon  to  its  shadow,  taken  by  different  astrono- 
mers at  the  times  of  the  equinoxes  and  solstices  ;  calculations 
founded  upon  the  lengths  of  the  longest  days ;  the  measures  or 
computed  distances  of  the  principal  roads  contained  in  the  Roman 
surveys  arid  itineraries  ;  and  the  various  reports  of  tra-vellers  and 
navigators^  who  often  determined  the  distances  of  places  by  hear- 
say and  conjecture.  All  these  were  compared  together,  and  di- 
gested into  one  uniform  body  or  system  ;  and  were  afterward  trans- 
lated by  liim,  as  far  as  was  necessary  in  adopting  the  plan  of  Hip- 
parchus, into  the  new  mathematical  language  of  degrees  and  mi?!' 
•utes  of  longitude  z.i\Ci  latitude. 

The  degree  of  accuracy  in  the  latitudes  and  longitudes,  given  by 
Ptolemy,  depended  upon  the  veracity  of  the  facts  or  suggestions 
communicated  to  him,  from  which  they  were  afterward  deduced. 
We  must  not  therefore  be  surprised  at  the  multitude  of  errors  to 
be  found  there,  when  his  original  materials  were  so  imperfect  for 
executing  so  large  a  workj  as  the  fixing  of  the  longitudes  and  lati- 
tudes of  all  the  places,  coasts,  bays,  and  rivers  of  the  then  known 
world.  His  system,  with  all  its  imperfections,  continued  in  vogue 
till  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century;  and  the  capital  errors  of 
Ptolemy's  work  kept  their  place  in  all  maps,  by  a  sort  of  unques- 
tioned prescription,  down  even  to  that  time. 

Little  was  done  in  geography  from  the  days  of  Ptolemy  to  the 
restoration  of  learning  in  Europe  ;  for  the  Arabian  geographers 
copied  and  retailed  allhis  prhicipal  errors.  They  observed  indeed, 
xjnder  their  Caliph  Almanon,  in  the  beginning  ot  the  ninth  centu- 
ry, a  degree  of  latitude  on  the  plains  of  Shinar  near  Babylon,  and 
found  it  equal  to  56§  Arabian  miles,  each  of  which  is  4000  cubits, 
»r  6000  feet ;  hence  they  determined  the  circumference  of  the 
earth.  " 


INTRODUCTION.  13 

The  sticients  were  acquainted  with  but  a  small  portion  of  the 
earth's  surface.  On  the  west,  the  Atlantic  ocean  and  British  isles 
limited  their  knowledge.  The  Fortunate  islands,  now  called  the 
Canaries,  were  the  remotest  known  lands  towards  the  south.  Their 
notions  with  regard  to  the  northern  countries  were  very  imperlect. 
Though  Scandinavia  was  known,  yet  that  and  some  other  countries 
on  the  same  continent  were  considered  as  large  islands.  It  is  not 
easy  to  determine  what  place  the  ancients  understood  by  Ultima 
Thule ;  many  take  it  for  Iceland,  but  Procopius  thinks  it  was  a 
part  of  Scandinavia.  Their  knowledge  of  Sarmatia  and  Scythia 
Was  far  from  extending  to  the  sea,  which  bounds  Russia  ancl  Gi-eat 
Tartary  on  the  north-east.  Their  discoveries  went  no  farther  than 
the  Riphean  mountains,  which  now  divide  Russia  from  Siberia. 
The  western  frontier  of  China  seems  to  have  bounded  their  knowl- 
edge on  the  east.  Ptolemy  indeed  had  a  very  imperfect  notion  of 
the  southern  parts  of  that  extensive  empire.  How  far  the  ancients 
extended  their  discoveries  witli  regard  to  Africa  cannot  be  certain- 
ly known.  Some  are  of  opinion,  that  they  were  acquainted  with 
the  whole  coast,  having  sailed  round  the  southern  extremity,  now 
called  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  ancl  extended  their  voyages  from 
the  Red  Sea  to  the  Mediterranean.  Ptolemy,  however,  supposed 
that  Africa  was  not  surrounded  by  the  sea,  but  extended  in  its 
breadth  eastwardly  till  it  joined  to  India. 

In  the  fifteenth  century  the  Portuguese,  animated  with  the  de- 
sire of  finding  a  passage  to  the  East-Indies,  pushed  their  enquiries 
along  the  western  coast  of  Africa,  till  they  found  the  Cape  ot  Good 
Hope,  in  I486.  In  1497,  Vasqucz  de  Gama  doubled  the  Cape, 
and  the  next  year  made  a  voyage  to  India,  and  thus"  completed  the 
discovery  of  that  country  by  the  east.  The  passage  being  thus  o- 
pened,  several  European  nations,  desirous  of  shainng  in  the  rich 
commerce  of  the  east,  sent  their  ships  to  the  Indian  Sea,  where 
they  discovered  the  Asiatic  islands,  and  penetrated  to  the  empire 
of  Japan.  The  voyages  of  the  Russians  have  completed  our  knowl- 
edge of  tbe  eastern  parts  of  the  continent  of  Asia. 

The  Portuguese  had  just  crossed  the  equator,  when  Christo- 
pher Columbus,  a  native  of  Genoa,  conceived  the  idea  of  finding 
India  by  a  western  course.  In  1 492,  he  crossed  the  Atlantic  ocean : 
but,  instead  of  the  Indies  he  discovered  the  new  world. 

The  improvements  in  geography  at  the  time  of  the  revival  of 
learning;  in  Europe,  and  since,  have  been  very  much  owing  to  the 
great  progress  of  astronomy.  More  cor!:ect  methods  and  instru- 
ments for  observing  the  latitude  have  been  invented  ;  and  the  dis- 
covery of  Jupiter's  satellites  afford  a  much  easier  method  of  find- 
ing the  longitude,  than  was  formerly  known.  Solar  and  Innar 
eclipses,  transits  of  Mercury  and  Venus  over  the  sun's  disc,  and 
occultations  of  the  fixed  stars  by  the  moon,  also  furnish  means  for 
determining  longitudes.  And  since  t!ie  limar  lahlesf  were  improv- 
ed by  Professor  Mayer,  and  time  kecfiers  by  Mi-.  Harrison  ancl 
others,  this  important  object  has  l)een  obtainable  by  nuasiiring-  dis- 
tancea  of  the  moon  from  the  su7i  and  from  certain  fixed  utarx,  and 
bij  keeping  time.     The  voyages  of  different  nations  brought  to  our 


U  INTRODUCTION. 

Icnov^ledge  a  vast  number  of  countries  utterly  unknown  before. 
The  late  voyages  of  Capt.  Cook  and  other  navigators,  together  vv'ith. 
the  travt'is  of  Messrs.  Bruce,  Park,  Mackenzie,  and  many  others, 
contributed  greatly  to  the  improvement  of  geography  during  the 
18l1<  century  ;  so  that  now  the  geography  of  the  utmost  extremi- 
ties of  the  earth  is  in  a  fair  way  of  being  much  better  known  to  the 
moderns,  than  that  of  the  adjacent  countries  was  to  the  antients. 
This  science,  however,  is  yet  very  far  from  perfection  ;  and  our 
best  maps  ought  to  be  considered  only  as  unfinishetl  works,  which 
are  to  be  altered  and  corrected  by  farther  obstjrvations  and  discov- 
eries. 


ASTRONOMY, 

AS    CONNECTED    WITH    THE    SCIENCE    OF    GEOGRAPHY. 

Astronomy  is  the  science,  which  treats  of  the  heavenly  bodies. 
By  it  we  learn  the  figure  and  dimensions  of  the  earth,  and  the 
relative  situations  of  places  upon  its  sm  face.  Hence  the  propriety 
of  giving  a  short  account  of  this  science  in  an  Introduction  to 
Geography. 

EXPLANATION    OF    TERMS. 

Angle.  An  angle  is  the  space  included  between  two  lines,  which 
meet  each  other. 

Circle.  A  circie  is  a  regular  figure,  bounded  by  a  curve  line, 
every  part  of  which  is  cquaily  distant  from  a  point  within  it,  called 
the  centre.  The  circiinifercnce  of  a  circie  is  the  curve  line,  which 
bounds  it.  The  radius  of  a  circle  is  the  distance  from  the  centre  to 
the  circumference  ;  and  the  diameter  is  equal  to  two  radii,  or  the 
longest  straight  line,  that  can  be  drawn  in  a  circle.  The  circum- 
ference of  every  circle  is  supposed  to  be  divided  into  360  equal 
parts,  called  degrees  ;  each  degree  into  60  minutes  ;  each  minute 
into  60  seconds.  An  arc  of  a  circle  is  the  measure  of  an  angle. 
Thus  a  right  angle  is  an  angle  of  90  degrees.  An  arc  of  a  circle' 
is  part  of  its  circumference. 

Sphere,  A  sphere  is  literally  a  ball,  or  globe.  By  the  celestial 
sphere  is  meant,  the  apparently  concave  orb,  which  surrounds  the 
earth,  and  in  which  the  heavenly  bodies  appear  to  be  situated  at 
equal  distances  from  the  eye.  In  order  to  facilitate  the  knowledge 
of  the  places  of  these  bodies  in  the  sphere,  several  circles  are  sup- 
posed to  be  described  on  its  surface,  and  are  denominated  circles  of 
the  sphere.  The  circles  of  the  celestial  sphere  are  supposed  to 
have  their  centres  coincident  with  the  centre  of  the  earth,  and  to 
mark  correspondent  circles  on  the  earth's  surface,  where  their 
planes  cut  it ;  so  that  the  celestial  and  terrestrial  spheres  or  globes 
are  considered  as  concentric,  and  as  having  concentric  circles  on 
their  surfaces. 

Great  circles.    Great  circles  are  those,  whose  planes  pass  through  , 


INTRODUCTION.  15 

tTie  centre  of  the  spliere,  and,  of  course,  divide  it  into  two  equal 
parts.  Of  these  there  are  four,  the  Jiquator,  the  EcU/itic^  the  Me- 
ridian., and  the  Horizon. 

Small  circles.  Those  circles,  whose  planes  divide  the  sphere  un- 
equally, are  called  small  circles.  Their  planes  do  not  pass  through 
its  centre.  Of  these  there  are  four,  also  ;  the  two  Tro/iics,  and 
the  two  Polar  Circles. 

Axis.  The  axis  of  the  earth,  or  any  heavenly  hody,  is  an  imag- 
inary line,  around  which  it  performs  its  diurnal  rotation. 

Poles.     The  poles  are  the  extremities  of  the  axis. 

Equator.  The  Equator  is  a  great  circle,  whose  plane  divides 
the  earth  and  the  heavens  into  nortliern  and  southern  hemispheres. 
The  axis  of  the  earth  makes  a  right  angle  with  its  plane.  It  is  oft- 
en called  iheEquinoctial  ;  because,  when  the  sun  is  directly  over 
it,  the  days  and  nights  are  of  equal  lengths  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 

Meridian.  The  Mei'idian  is  a  great  circle,  whose  plane  divides 
the  earth  and  the  heavens  into  eastern  and  western  hemispheres. 
There  is  an  indefinite  number  of  meridians  ;  for  all  places,  that  lie 
cast  or  west  of  each  other,  have  different  meridians.  They  all  pass 
through  the  poles  of  the  earth,  and  cut  the  equator  at  right  angles-. 
The  meridian  of  any  place  also  passes  through  the  zenith  of  that 
place  or  the  point  directly  over  our  heads  ;  and  through  the  nadir., 
or  the  point  under  our  feet.  The  word  meridian  is  derived  front 
meridics^  mid-day  /  because,  when  the  sun  is  on  the  meridian  of 
any  place,  it  is  noon  at  tliat  place.  Geographers  usually  assume 
the  meridian,  which  passes  through  the  metropolis  of  their  own 
country,  as  the  first  meridian.  But  as  great  inconvenience  and 
confusion  result  from  this  practice,  the  first  meridian,  throughout 
the  following  work,  will  be  that  of  the  Royal  Observatory  at  Green- 
wich, near  London. 

EcUfitic.  The  Ecliptic  is  a  great  circle,  whose  plane  makes  an 
angle  of  23  28  with  the  plane  of  the  equator.  Considered  as  a  cir- 
cle in  the  heavens,  its  circumference  is  the  path,  which  the  earth 
describes  annually  in  its  revolution  round  the  sun.  The  points,  hi 
which  the  ecliptic  intersects  the  equator,  are  called  the  equinoctial 
points  ;  because,  when  the  sun  is  in  either  of  those  points,  it  shines 
on  both  poles,  and  the  day  is  then  equal  to  the  night  throughout  the. 
earth.  The  meridian,  which  passes  through  these  points,  is  called 
the  equinoctial  colure.  The  two  points  in  the  ecliptic,  which  are  90 
degrees  distant  from  these,  are  called  the  solstitial /loints  ;  because, 
when  the  sun  is  in  either  of  them,  it  is  summer  in  the  nearest  hem- 
isphere. The  meridian  passing  through  these  points  is  calledthe 
solstitial  colurcy  and  is  the  only  meridian  which  cuts  the  ecliptic  at 
right  angles.  The  sun  passes  through  the  equinoctial  points  oti 
the  20th  of  March,  and  the  23d  of  September.  The  former  is  call- 
ed the  vernal  ;  the  latter,  the  autmnnal  equinox.  The  sun  is  in 
the  solstitial  points  on  the  21st  of  June,  and  the  21st  of  December. 
The  former  is  called  the  summer  ;  the  latter  the   ivintcr  solstice. 

The  ecliptic  is  divided  into  12  equal  parts  of  30  degrees  eacl;, 
called  signs.  These  begin  at  the  vernal  intersection  of  the  ecliptic 
■«pith  the  equator,  and  are  numbered  from  west  to  east.  The  name  ^ 


16 


INTRODUCTION. 


and  characters  of  the  signs,  with  the  moriths  in  which  the  sun  eii 
ttrs  them,  are  us  follows  ; 


Latin  names. 

English  names. 

Characters, 

Months. 

i 

Aries 

The  Ram 

T 

March 

<■» 

Taurus 

The  Bull 

« 

April 

O 

Gemhii 

Tlic  Twins 

n 

May- 

4 

Cancel* 

The  Crab 

So 

June 

5 

Leo 

The  Lion 

Si 

July 

6 

Virgo 

The  Virgin 

nR 

August 

7 

I^ibra 

The  Scales 

£: 

September 

8 

Scorpio 

The  Scoqnon 

"I 

October 

9 

Sagittarius 

The  Archer 

Jf 

November 

10 

Capricornus 

The  Goat 

Jcf 

December 

11 

Aquarius 

The  Water  Bearer 

January- 

12 

Pisces 

The  Fishes 

>£ 

February 

The  first  six  are  called  northern  signs  ;  and  the  last  six,  southern. 

Zodiac.  The  Zodiac  is  a  broad  belt  in  the  heavens,  16  degrees 
^vide  ;  in  the  middle  of  which  is  the  ecliptic.  It  comprehends  the 
orbits  of  all  the  planets. 

Horizon.  There  are  two  kinds  of  horizons  ;  the  sensible,  and 
the  rational.  The  sensible  is  the  small  circle,  which  limits  our 
prospect ;  where  the  sky  and  the  land  or  water  appear  to  meet. 
There  are  as  many  of  these  as  there  are  places.  The  rational  ho- 
rizon is  a  great  circle,  whose  plane  divides  the  earth  into  upper 
and  lower  hemispheres.  Each  place,  has  its  own  rational  horizon, 
so  that  there  are  as  many  rational  horizons,  as  there  are  spots  on 
the  earth's  surface.  The  rational  horizon  of  every  place  is  that 
threat  circle  of  the  earth,  whose  circumference  is  every  where  90 
degrees  distant  from  the  place.  The  poles  of  the  celestial  hori- 
zon are  the  zenith  and  the  iiadir. 

Declination.  The  declination  of  a  heavenly  body  is  its  distance 
iiorth  or  liouth  of  the  equator,  measured  on  a  meridian. 

Trofiics.  The  Tropics  are  two  small  circles,  drawn  parallel  to 
the  equator,  at  the  distance  of  23  28  on  each  side  of  it.  The  north- 
ern is  called  the  tropic  of  Cancer  ;  the  southern,  the  tropic  of  Cap- 
ricorn. The  sun  never  passes  the&e  circles  ;  but,  when  it  has  ar- 
rived at  either,  it  turns,  and  goes  toward  the  other.  They,  of 
course,  bound  those  places  where  the  sun  is  vertical. 

Folar  Circles,  'i'he  Polar  circles  are  two  small  circles,  parallel 
to  the  tropics,  and  are  described  round  the  poles  at  the  distance  of 
:•  5  28  from  them.  The  northern  is  called  the  arctic  circle  ;  and 
;he  southern,  the  antarctic  circle.  These  circles  bound  those 
places  where  the  sun  selb  daily. 

A  direct  or  right  sphere  is  that,  where  both  the  poles  are  in  the 
horizon,  and  the  sun,  moon  and  stars  ascend  directly  above,  and 
descend  directly  below  the  horizon.  This  position  is  peculiar  ta 
xhose  places,  which  are  under  the  equator. 

/vn  oblique  sphere  is  that,  where  all  the  diurnal  motions  are  ob- 
liciue  to  the  horizon.    This  is  common  to  all  pans  of  the  earth,  ex  ■ 


INTRODUCTION.  ir 

cept  those  under  the  poles  and  the  equator.  In  an  oblique  sphere, 
one  of  the  poles  is  elevated  above,  and  the  other  depressed  belowj 
the  horizon. 

A  /larallel  sfihere  is  when  one  pole  being  in  the  zenith  and  the 
other  in  the  nadir,  the  equator  and  all  its  parallels  are  parallel  to 
the  horizon.  This  position  is  peculiar  to  ^hosc  parts  which  lie  di- 
rectly under  the  poles. 

Zones.  The  surface  of  the  ear^h  is  supposed  to  be  divided  into 
five  unequal  parts,  c'dUtij  zones,  each  of  which  is  terminated  by 
two  parallels  of  latitude.  Of  these  five  zones,  one  is  called  the 
torrid  or  buriiing-  zone  ;  two  are  sly\Qd  frigid  or  frozen  ;  and  two, 
te7nperate. 

The;  torrid  zone  I?,  that  portion  of  the  earth,  over  every  part  of 
which  the  sun  is  perpendicular  at  some  time  of  the  year.  The 
bi'C'adth  of  this  zone  is  nearly  47  degrees  ;  extending  from  23  de- 
J^^Vees  and  28  minutes  north  to  23  degrees  and  28  minutes  south 
latitude.  The  equator  passes  through  the  middle  of  this  zone, 
which  is  terminated  on  the  north  by  the  parallel  of  latitude,  called 
the  tropic  of  Cancer,  and  on  the  south  by  the  parallel  called  the 
tropic  of  Capricorn. 

Many  parts  of  the  torrid  zone  are  remarkably  populous  ;  and  so 
fruitful,  that  two  harvests  a  year  are  very  common.  All  sorts  of 
spices  and  drugs  arc  almost  solely  produced  there  ;  and  it  furnish- 
es more  perfect  metals,  precious  stones,  and  pearls,  than  all  the 
rest  of  the  earth. 

This  zone  comprehends  the  East  and  West-Indies,  Philippine 
Islands,  the  greater  part  of  South-America  and  Africa,  and  almost 
ail  Capt.  Cook's  discoveries,  including  the  northern  parts  of  New- 
Holland. 

The  frigid  zones  are  those  regions  round  the  poles,  where  the 
sun  does  not  rise  for  some  days  in  the  winter,  nor  set  for  some 
days  in  the  summer.  The  two  poles  are  the  centres  of  these  zones, 
which  extend  from  these  points  to  23  degrees  and  28  minutes; 
that  is,  they  are  bounded  by  the  northern  and  southern  parallels  of 
latitude  of  66  degrees  and  32  minutes.  That  part  that  lies  in  the 
northern  hemisphere  is  called  the  north  frigid  zone,  and  is  bound- 
ed by  a  parallel,  called  the  arctic,  or  north  polar  circle  ;  and  that 
in  the  southern  hemisphere,  the  south  frigid  zone,  and  the  parallel 
of  latitude,  which  bounds  it  is  called  the  antarctic^  or  south  polar 
circle. 

The  northern  frigid  zone  comprehends  Nova-Zembla,  Lapland, 
part  of  Norway,  Baffin's  Bay,  part  of  Greenland,  and  part  of  Sibe- 
ria.    The  southern  frigid  zone  has  no  land  known  to  us. 

The  two  tem}ie,rate  zones  arc  the  spaces  contained  between  the 
tropics  and  polar  circles. 

The  northern  temperate  zone  contains  almost  all  Europe,  the 

greater  part  of  Asia,  part  of  Africa,  the  United  States  of  America, 

and  the  British  colonies.     The  southern  temperate  zone  comprises 

.  the  south  part  of  New-Holland,  (including  Botany  Bay)  Cape  of 

Good  Hope,  and  Cape  Horn. 

In  the  frigid  zones  the  longest  day  is  never  less  than  34  hours  j 


18'  INTRODUCTION. 

in  the  temperate  zones  it  is  not  quite  so  much,  and  in  the  toYii^ 
never  more  than  13|^  hours. 

Climates.  The  word  climate  has  two  siu:nifications,  one  geo'- 
gtafihical  and  the  other  astronamical.  In  common  language,  the 
word  is  used  to  denote  the  difference  in  the  seasons  and  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air.  Whei.  two  places  differ  in  these  respects,  they 
are  said  to  be  in  different  cliu^ates. 

In  an  astronomical  sense,  a  ciimaie  is  a  tract  of  the  earth's  sur- 
face, included  between  the  equator  and  a  parallel  of  latitude,  or  be- 
tween two  parallels,  of  such  a  breadth,  that  the  length  of  the  day^ 
in  one  is  half  an  hour  longer  than  in  the  other.  Within  the  polar 
circles,  however,  the  breadth  of  a  climate  is  such,  that  tiie  length 
of  the  longest  day,  or  the  longest  time  of  the  sun*s  continuance 
above  the  horizon  without  setting,  is  a  month  longer  in  one  paral- 
lel, as  you  proceed  toward  the  elevated  pole,  than  in  the  other. 

There  are  30  climates  between  the  equator  and  either  pole.  In' 
the  first  24,  between  the  equator  and  either  polar  circle,  the  period 
of  increase  for  every  climate  is  lialf  an  hour  In  the  other  six,  be- 
tween either  polar  circle  and  its  pole,  the  period  of  increase  for 
each  climate  is  a  month. 

Latitude.  The  latitude  of  a  place  is  its  distance  from  the  equa- 
tor, reckoned  in  degrees.  Sec.  north  or  south,  on  the  meridian.  The 
greatest  latitude  is  that  of  the  poles,  which  are  90  degrees  distant 
from  the  equator.  If  the  place  be  situated  between  the  equator 
and  the  north  pole,  it  is  said  to  be  in  north  latitude;  if  it  lie  be- 
tween the  equator  and  the  south  pole,  it  is  in  south  latitude. 

The  elevation  of  the  pole  above  the  horizon  is  always  equal  to 
the  latitude  of  the  place  ;  for  to  a  person  situated  at  the  equator, 
both  poles  vi'ill  rest  in  tiie  horizon.  If  you  travel  one,  two,  or  more 
degrees  north,  the  north  pole  will  rise  one,  two,  or  more  degrees, 
and  will  keep  pace  with  your  distance  from  the  equator. 

Longitude.  Every  place  on  the  surface  of  the  earth  has  its  me- 
ridian. The  longitude  of  a  place  is  the  distance  of  its  meridian 
from  some  other  fixed  meridian,  measured  on  the  equator.  Lon- 
gitude is  either  east  or  west.  All  places  east  of  the  fixed  or  first 
meridian  are  in  east  longitude  ;  all  west,  in  west  longitude. 

Opposition.  A  body  is  in  opposition  with  the  sun,  when  the 
earth  is  directly  between  it  and  the  sun. 

Conjunction.  A  body  is  in  conjunction  with  the  sun,  when  they 
are  both  in  a  straight  line  with  the  earth,  and  on  the  same  side  of  it. 
If  the  body  is  between  the  earth  and  the  sun,  it  is  said  to  be  in  its 
inferior  conjunction  ;  but  when  the  sun  is  between  it  and  the  earth, 
the  body  is  said  to  be  in  its  superior  conjunction. 

(Quadrature.  A  body  is  in  quadrature,  whea  a  line,  drawn  from 
the  centre  of  the  body  to  the  centre  of  tlie  earth,  makes  a  right 
angle  with  a  line,  drawn  from  the  centre  of  the  earth  to  the  centre 
of  the  stm. 

Elongation.  The  greatest  elongation  of  a  heavenly  body  is  its 
greatest  apparent  distance  from  the  sun. 

Eccentricitij.     The  eccentricity  of  the  orbit  of  a  planet  is  the- 


INTRODUCTION.  .  ip 

rd'iBtance  from  the  sun  to  the  centre  of  the  orbit ;  the  sun  not  being 
,in  the  centre,  but  in  one  of  the  foci. 

Ajihelion.  A  planet  is  in  its  aphelion,  when  it  is  farthest  from 
the  sun. 

Perihelion.  The  perihelion  is  that  point  in  the  orbit  of  a  planet, 
which  is  nearest  to  the  sun. 

A  Digit  is  a  twelfth  part  of  the  diameter  of  the  sun  or  moon. 

Planets  are  bodies,  which  revolve  about  the  sun  in  orbits  nearly 
circular,  whose  planes  make  a  very  small  angle  with  the  plane  of 
the  ecliptic  ;  and  with  a  motion  accoi'dijig  to  the  order  of  the  signs 
of  the  ecliptic,  or  from  west  to  east. 

Satellites  or  moons^  are  bodies  revolving  round  the  planets,  which 
are  called  xhoiv  jlirimaries  ;  and,  in  company  with  them,  round  the 
sun. 

Asteroids  are  very  small  bodies,  revolving  round  the  sun,  in  or- 
bits making  larger  angles  with  the  plane  of  the  ecliptic,  and  with 
motions  either  direct.,  i.  e.  from  west  to  east  ;  or  retrograde^  i.  e. 
from  east  to  west. 

Comets  are  bodies  revolving  about  the  sun  in  extremely  elUptic- 
.al  orbits  ;  vi^hose  planes  may  make  any  angle  with  the  ecliptic,  ai>,d 
whose  motions  are  cither  direct  or  retrograde. 

THE    SOLAR    SYSTEM. 

The  system  of  heavenly  bodies,  to  which  the  earth  belongs,  is 
composed  of  the  Sun,  the  Planets,  the  Satellites,  the  Asteroids,  and 
the  Comets. 

The  Sun,  the  most  glorious  of  the  heavenly  lum.inaries,  is  the 
source  of  light,  and  heat,  and  motion,  to  all  the  bodies  which  re- 
volve around  it. 

The  number  of  Planets  is  seven  ;  the  names  of  which,  according 
to  their  nearness  to  the  sun,  are  Mercury,  Venus,  the  Earth,  Mars, 
Ju/iiter,  Saturn,  Herschel.  The  two  first  are  called  inferior  plan- 
ets ;  the  four  last,  sufierior. 

The  number  of  Satellites  is  eighteen.  The  earth  has  one  ;  Ju- 
piter four  ;  Saturn  seven  ;  Herschel  six.  These  revolve  round 
their  respective  primaries,  and  accompany  them  in  their  annual 
revolutions  round  the  sun. 

The  number  of  Asteroids  at  present  known  is  four.  Their  or- 
bits lie  between  those  of  Mars  and  Jupiter.  Their  names,  accord- 
ing to  their  nearness  to  the  sun,  are  Ceres,  Pallas,  Juno,  and  Vesta. 

The  number  of  Comets  belonging  to  our  system  is  not  yet  as- 
certained. 

Astronomers  have,  at  different  periods,  supposed  the  principal 
bodies,  which  compose  the  solar  system,  arranged  in  different  or- 
ders. Such  a  supposed  arrangement  is  called  a  System  of  the 
world.  The  most  distinguished  of  these  systems  are  the  Ptolemaic, 
the  Tychonic,  and  the  Co}iernican. 

Tne  Ptolemaic  System  is  so  called  from  Claudius  Ptolemy,  a 
celebrated  astronomer  of  Pelusium  in  Egypt  ;  not  because  he  was 
the  author  of  it,  but  because  he  adopted  and  endeavored  to  sup- 


20  INTRODUCTION. 

port  it.  According  to  this  hypothesis,  the  earth  is  immoveably 
fixed  in  the  centre  of  the  universe,  and  all  the  other  bodies  revolve 
round  it  from  east  to  v.est  in  the  space  of  twenty-four  hours,  at  dis- 
tances, which  increase  in  the  order,  in  which  they  are  here  named, 
•viz.  the  Moon,  Mercury,  Venus,  the  Sun,  Mars,  Jupiter,  Saturn, 
and  the  fixed  stars.  The  sun  and  planets  were  supposed  to  be 
firmly  set  in  separate  crystalline  spheres,  inclosed  by  a  concave  one, 
containing  the  fixed  stars,  which  would  of  course  be  all  equally 
distant  froiYi  the  earth.  Above  this  starry  sphere  were  imagined 
to  be  the  two  crystalline  spheres,  the  firimum  mobile,  communicat- 
ing motion  to  all  the  interior  spheres  ;  and,  finally,  the  empyrean 
heaven,  or  heaven  of  heavens,  to  which  a  cubic  form  was  attiibuted. 
Beside  the  above  motion,  performed  in  the  course  of  twenty-four 
hours,  the  sun  and  planets  were  supposed  to  revolve  about  the 
earth  in  certain  stated  or  periodical  times,  agreeably  to  their  annu- 
al appearances. 

The  phenomena  to  be  explained  by  this  system  are  inconsistent 
with  it;  and  show  its  absurdity  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner. 

The  Tychonic  or  Brahean  System  was  invented  by  Tycho 
!Brahe,  a  nobleman  of  Denmark.  With  Ptoiemy  he  supposed  the 
earth  to  be  at  rest  in  the  centre  of  the  universe,  and  the  moon,  the 
sun,  planets,  and  fixed  stars,  to  revolve  about  it  in  twenty-four  houis. 
He  also  supposed  that  these  bodies  had  an  annual  motion  around 
the  earth ;  that  the  moon's  orbit  was  nearest  to  the  earth  ;  then 
the  sun's  ;  and  that  Mercury,  Venus,  Mars,  Jupiter,  and  Saturn, 
revolved  about  the  sun  as  their  centre,  and  accompanied  it  as  their 
primary  in  its  annual  revolution  round  the  earth.  As  he  denied 
the  earth's  diurnal  rotation  on  its  axis,  he  was  obliged  to  admit  one 
of  the  most  gross  absurdities  of  the  Ptolemaic  hypothesis,  tb.at  is, 
the  revolution  of  the  wiiole  universe,  to  its  farthest  visible  limits, 
about  the  earth's  axis  in  the  space  of  a  day,  produced  by  the  pri- 
mum  mobile.  Some  of  his  followers,  however,  varied  from  his 
system  so  far  as  to  ascribe  this  apparent  diurnal  motion  of  the  heav- 
ens to  a  real  rotation  of  the  earth  on  its  axis,  and  were  therefore 
called  Sevii-Tijcho7iics. 

The  CopERNiCAN  System  is  so  called  from  Copernicus,  a  na- 
tive of  Thorn  in  Royal  Prussia,  and  is  the  true  Solar  System. 
It  had  been  taught  by  some  of  the  Pythagorean  philosophers,  but 
was  nearly  lost,  when  Copernicus  undertook  to  restore  it,  and  pub- 
lished new  and  demonstrative  arguments  in  its  favour.  It  supposes 
the  sun  to  be  in  the  centre  of  the  system,  and  all  tlie  planets  to 
move  round  the  sun  in  the  order  already  mentioned.  These,  to- 
gether with  the  satellites,  asteroids,  and  comets,  form  the  constitu- 
ent parts  of  the  Solar  System. 

This  supposition  readily  solves  all  the  appearances  observable 
in  the  motion  of  the  planets,  and  also  agrees  with  the  strictest  phi- 
losophical and  mathematical  reasoning. 

All  the  planets  are  opaque  and  spherical  bodies,  and  receive  their 
light  from  the  sun.  Their  orbits  are  not  circular,  but  elliptical,  or 
oval,  and  have  one  common  focus,  which  is  occupied  by  the  sun. 
Hence,  in  their  revolutions,  they  are  sometimes  nearer  to,  and 


INTRODUCTION.  3i 

sometimes  farther  from,  that  luminavy.  The  influence  of  the  sun 
is  the  cause  of  the  niolioiis  of  the  planets ;  and  this  influence  in- 
creases as  their  distance  from  the  sun  decreases.  Hence  also  we 
sec  the  reason  >vhy  the  planets  move  faster,  as  they  approach 
nearer  to  the  sun,  and  slower  as  they  recede  from  it. 

If  a  right  line,  called  by  some  tiie  -uecior  radius^  be  drawn  from 
the  sun  through  any  planet,  and  supposed  to  revolve  round  the  sun 
with  the  planet,  this  line  will  describe,  or  pass  over,  every  part  of 
the  plane  of  the  orbit ;  so  that  the  vector  radius  may  be  said  to 
describe  the  area  of  the  orbit. 

In  the  soiar  system  are  observed  two  principal  laws,  which  reg- 
ulate the  motions  of  the  planets.     These   laws  are  the  following  : 

\.  "  The  planets  describe  equal  areas  in  equal  times."  That  is, 
the  vector  radius,  in  equal  portions  of  tin\e,  describes  equal  areas 
or  portions  of  the  space,  contained  within  the  planet's  orbit. 

2.  "  The  squares  of  the  periodical  times  of  the  planets  are  as 
the  cubes  of  their  niean  distances  from  the  sun."  That  is,  as  the 
square  of  the  time,  which  any  planet  takes  to  describe  its  orbit,  is 
to  the  square  of  the  time,  taken  by  any  other  planet  to  describe  its 
orbit :  so  is  the  cube  of  the  mean  distance  of  the  former  from  the 
sun,  to  the  cube  of  the  mean  distance  of  the  latter  from  the  sun. 

These  laws,  together  v/ith  the  facts  that  the  orbits  of  the  planets 
are  elliptical,  and  that  they  have  the  sun  in  a  common  focus,  were 
discovered  by  Kepler,  a  distinguished  astronomer,  who  ilourishcd 
about  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  who  deduced 
them  from  a  multitude  of  observations  ;  bui  the  first,  who  shewed 
the  reason  of  these  laws,  was  the  great  Sir  Isaac  Newton. 

By  the  second  law  the  relative  distances  of  the  planets  from  the 
sun  are  known  ;  and  were  the  real  distance  of  any  one  of  them 
determined,  the  real  distances  of  all  the  others  would  be  obtained. 
By  the  transits  of  Venus  over  the  sun  in  1761  and  1769,  we  now 
know  the  real  distances  of  the  planets  from  the  sun  much  better 
than  before  :  these,  together  with  other  necessary  particulars  ior 
forming  a  competent  idea  of  the  solar  system,  are  exhibited  in 
Table  1. 

The  limits  tp  which  we  are  confined  will  not  admit  of  our  intro- 
ducing the  usual  proofs  to  establish  the  Copernican  sy.stem. 

The  Su7i.  The  Sun  is  the  centre  of  the  system,  and  is  immense- 
ly larger  than  all  the  otiier  bodies  which  compose  it.  Its  diame- 
ter is  883,246  miles,  and  its  density  (that  of  tlie  earth  being  1)  is 
nearly!.  It  weighs  333,928  times  as  much  as  the  earth,  and  is 
1,380,000  times  as  large.  It  appears  fi-om  calculation,  that  a  body 
weighing  1  pound  on  the  earth,  would  weigh  2  77  pounds  on  the 
sun.  It  revolves,  on  its  axis,  in  25  days,  14  hours,  8  minutes  ;  and 
in  its  orbit,  in  the  same  time,  around  the  con)mon  centre  of  gravity 
pf  the  system.  Its  revolution  in  its  orbit,  as  is  that  of  all  the  plan- 
ets, is  from  west  to  east.  The  plane  of  its  orbit  is  not  coincident 
with  that  of  any  of  the  planets  ;  but  is  nearest  to  coincidence  with 
the  orbit  of  Venus.  The  axis  of  the  sun  makes  an  angle  of  about 
821  degrees  with  the  plane  of  the  earth's  orbit.  The  sun,  though  to, 
the  naked  eye  it  appears  so  extremely  blight ;  yet,  with  a  tele- 


22  INTRODUCTION. 

scope  of  but  very  small  powers,  is  discovered  to  have  dark  spots 
oil  'ts  burfiice.  Thf  se  are  a!so  very  various  in  their  magnitudes. 
yH-A\  ^v!;i'^')  ;n>p«jart:d  in  1779,  was  more  than  31,000  miles  in  di- 
ameter, and  was  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  The  sun  has  a  revolu- 
tion on  jis  axis    it  is  not  ascertained  whether  it  has  an  atmosphere. 

Mercury.  Mercury  is  the  smallest  of  the  planets.  It  is  3224 
iXiUcs  in  diameter,  and  36.583,825  miles  from  the  sun.  Its  bulk  is 
to  that  of  the  earth,  nearly  as  1  to  15  ;  and  its  weight,  as  0-165  to  1. 
A  body  weighing  I  pound  on  the  earth,  would  weigh  1-03  pounds 
on  Mercury.  It  is  not  known  whether  it  revolves  on  its  axis  ;  yet, 
as  all  the  other  planets  do,  it  is  naturally  concluded  that  this  does 
also.  It  revolves  round  the  sun  in  87  days,  23  hours  ;  or  little  less 
than  3  ;Tionths.  It  emits  a  very  briuhi,  white  light.  Mercury  can 
.be  seen  or.iy  a  few  days  at  time.  It  is  visible  in  the  evening  a- 
bouttije  eastern  elongation.  It  then  disappears  about  6  or  7  weeks, 
after  which  time  it  may  b<-:  seer!  m  liiC  morning,  rising  before  the 
sun.  In  about  10  wcelvS,  it  re-appears  ia  the  west,  setting  after 
the  sun  It  has  no  moor.,  nor  arjy  <opots  on  iis  surface.  Its  hourly 
motioii  in  its  orbit  is  1 1  1,000  mijcs.  The  heat  near  the  poles  of 
jVIcrcury  is  not  probabiy  greater  than  that  of  the  torrid  zone. 
Near  its  equator,  watei'  would  coiitinuaily  boii,  and  most  inflamma- 
,ble  substances  would  be  parclicu  up,  destroyed,  or  converted  into 
vapor. 

Vc7ius.  This  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  celestial  luminaries, 
and  the  only  star  that  is  ever  visible  in  tiie  day  time.  This  hap- 
pens once  in  al>out  8  years  ;  when  the  planet  is  at  us  greatest  north 
latitude,  and  near  its  fart'-icst  distance  from  the  sun.  Venus  is  7687 
miles  in  diameter,  and  its  mean  distance  from  the  sun  is  68,368.008 
miles.  Its  bulk,  compared  vatb  that  of  the  earth,  is  nearly  as  8  to 
9  ;  and  its  weight,  as  0-89  to  1.  A  body  weighing  I  pound  on  the 
earth  would  weigh  0-98  pounds  in  Venus.  Its  diurnal  rotation  on 
its  axis  is  performed  in  23  uours,  22  minutes,  and  it  moves  in  its 
orbit  81.000  miles  an  hour.  When  Venus  appears  to  the  west  of 
the  sun,  it  rises  before  him  in  the  morning,  and  is  called  the  morn- 
ing star  ;  ana  when  it  appears  to  the  east  of  tlie  sun,  it  shines  in 
the  evening,  after  the  sun  sets,  and  is  called  the  evening  star  ;  be- 
ing in  each  situation,  alternately,  about  290  days.  The  axis  of  Ve- 
nus is  ii.clined  75  degrees  towards  the  plane  of  its  orbit. 

Mercury  and  Venus  are  inferior  planets.  Their  orbits  are  with- 
in that  of  the  earth.  Mercury  never  appears  more  than  28  20 
from  the  sun,  nor  Venus  more  than  47  48.  Of  course,  they  and 
the  sun  are  never  in  opposition,  i.  e.  on  opposite  sides  of  the  earth. 
They  have  both,  however,  an  ivferior  conjunction,  when  they  pass 
between  the  earth  and  the  sun  ;  and  a  auperior  conjunction,  when 
they  pass  behind  the  sun.  In  their  inferior  conjunctions,  they 
sometimes  pass  directly  over  the  sun's  disc.  This  passage  is  call- 
ed a  transit.  In  their  transits,  they  appear  like  small,  round,  black 
•spots,  moving  rapidly  over  the  face  of  the  sun.  This  appearance 
j>roves  them  to  be  opaque  bodies.  The  transits  of  Venus  are  not 
so  frequent  as  those  of  Mercury.  The  last  transit  of  Venus  was 
xi\  1.769  5  the  next  will  be  in  1874.     The  last  of  Mercury  was  in 


INTRODUCTION.  2.3 

1'502  ;  the  two  next  will  be  in  1815,  and  1822.  .  The  greatest  heat 
on  the  planet  Venus  probably  exceeds  the  heat  of  the  torrid  zone 
about  as  much,  as  that  exceeds  the  average  heat  of  60  degrees 
north  latitude. 

The  Earth.  The  Earth  is  a  spherical  body.  This  is  obvious 
from  the  following  considerations  :  First,  Such  a  figure  is  best  a- 
dapted  to  motion.  Secondly,  When  you  stand  upon  the  shore  of 
the  ocean,  the  spherical  form  of  its  surface  is  manifest  to  the  eye^ 
Thirdly,  From  analogy  ;  as  all  the  other  planets  and  heavenly 
bodies  are  spherical.  Fourthly,  The  higher  the  eye  is  placed,  the 
more  extensive  is  the  prospect ;  but  on  a  plane  absolutely  horizon- 
tal, objects  at  a  given  distance  would  be  visible,  whether  the  eye 
•were  high  or  low  ;  nor  would  any  of  them  vanish,  till  the  angle, 
under  which  they  must  appear,  became  too  small  to  be  perceptible. 
Fifthly,  To  people  on  shore,  the  mast  of  a  ship  appears  before  the 
JiuU ;  but,  were  the  earth  a  plane,  the  hull  would  appear  long  be- 
fore the  mast,  by  reason  of  the  much  greater  angle  which  it  sub- 
tends. Sixthly,  To  people  at  sea,  the  land  disappears,  though  near 
enough  to  be  visible,  were  it  not  for  the  convexity  of  the  water. 
Seventhly,  The  earth  has  been  sailed  round  by  Magellan,  Drake, 
Dampier,  Anson,  Cook,  and  since  by  many  others.  This  could 
not  have  happened,  if  the  earth  had  not  been  of  a  globular  figure. 
Eighthly,  The  boundary  of  the  earth's  shadow  upon  the  moon,  in  a 
Junar  eclipse,  is  always  circular  ;  and  nothing  but  a  spherical  body 
can,  in  all  situations,  produce  a  circular  shadow.  The  unevennesses 
of  the  earth's  surface  have  no  effect  upon  its  shadow  on  tlie  moon; 
for  the  height  of  Chimborazo,  the  highest  mountain  on  the  globe, 
is  less  than  the  2000th  part  of  the  earth's  diameter.  The  earth  is 
not,  however,  a  perfect  sphere,  but  an  oblate  sfiheroid  ;  that  is,  its 
equatorial  diameter  is  longer  than  its  axis.  The  difference  of 
these  diameters  is  about  34  miles.  The  mean  diameter  of  the 
earth,  or  the  diameter  in  latitude  45  degrees,  is  7928  miles.  OT 
course,  the  equatorial  diameter  is  7945  miles,  and  the  length  of  the 
earth's  axis  is  791 1.  The  equatorial  circumference  of  the  earth 
is  about  24,970  miles  ;  its  mean  circumference,  in  latitude  45  de- 
grees, is  24,917  ;  and  its  meridional  circumference,  24,863.  The 
number  of  square  miles  on  the  earth's  surface  is  197,459,101  ;  ancp 
260,909,292,265  is  the  number  of  cubic  miles  contained  in  the  earth. 
It  performs  a  rotation  on  its  axis  once  in  24  hours. 

The  earth  is  surrounded  with  a  thin,  invisible,  elastic  fluid,  call- 
ed air,  the  whole  body  of  which  forms  what  is  called  the  atmo-^ 
sphere.  The  density  of  the  air  is  not  always  the  same,  it  being  sub- 
ject to  be  expanded  by  heat  and  contracted  by  cold.  In  its  mean 
state  it  is  found  to  be  about  850  times  lighter  than  water. 

The  height  of  the  atmosphere  is  not  yet  ascertained.  The  be- 
ginning and  ending  of  twilight,  indeed,  show  that  the  height,  at 
which  the  atmosphere  begins  to  refract  the  sun's  light,  is  about  44 
or  45  miles.  But  tnis  may  not  im.probably  be  owing  to  the  height 
to  which  the  aqueous  vapors  arc  carried.  Thatitactually  extends 
much  higher,  is  proved  by  the  fact,  that  atmospheric  meteors  have 
9imn  been  seen  at  tlic  heig;ht  of  90  miles. 


liSfTRODUCTION. 

Notwithstanding  the  seeming  inequality  in  the  distribution  oi 
light  and  darkness,  it  is  certain,  that,  throughout  the  whole  world, 
there  is  nearly  an  equal  proportion  of  light  diffused  on  every  part, 
if  we  disregard  what  is  absorbed  by  clouds,  vapors,  and  the  at- 
mosphere itself.  The  equatorial  regions  have  indeed  the  most  in- 
tense light  during  the  day,  but  the  nights  are  long  and  dark  ;  while 
on  the  other  hand,  in  the  northerly  and  southerly  parts,  though  the 
'uni  shines  less  powerfully,  yet  the  length  of  time  that  it  appears 
above  the  horizon,  with  the  longer  duration  of  tv/ilight,  makes  up 
for  the  seeming  deficiency. 

Mars.  The  diameter  of  Mars  is  4139  miles,  and  its  mean  dis- 
tance from  the  sun  is  144,000,023  miles.  Its  annual  revolution  oc- 
cupies 1  year,  321  days,  23  hours,  31  minutes,  and  its  rotation  on 
its  axis  24  hours,  39  minutes,  22  seconds.  It  moves  in  its  orbit  at 
the  rate  of  50,000  miles  an  hour.  Its  bulk,  compared  with  that  of 
the  earth,  is  as  7  to  24  ;  its  density,  as  7  to  10  ;  and  its  weight  as 
49  to  240.  One  pound  on  the  earth  would  weigh  0-34  in  this  plan- 
et. Mars  is  of  a  fiery  red  colour.  By  tire  telescope,  dark  spots 
arc  discoverable  on  its  surface  ;  but  round  its  poles,  particularly 
the  southern,  an  intense  and  permanent  brightness.  Mars  is  an 
oblate  spheroid.  Its  axis  is  to  its  equatorial  diameter,as  98  to  103. 
It  is  an  opaque  body,  never  appearing  horned,  like  Mercury  and 
Venus,  but  sojuetimes  gibbous.  It  has  an  atmosphere  of  consid- 
erable extent. 

Jufiiter.  Jupiter,  the  largest  of  the  planets,  is  89,170  miles  in 
diameter,  and  49  i, 702, 301  miles  from  the  sun.  lis  bulk,  compar- 
ed with  that  of  the  earth  is  nearly  as  1400  to  I  ;  its  density  as  5  to 
22  ;  and  its  weight  as  312  to  1.  One  pound  on  the  earth  would 
weigh  2-53ros.  in  Jupiter.  Its  shape  is  that  of  an  oblate  spheroid. 
Its  polar  diameter  is  to  that  of  its  equatorial,  as  12  to  13  ;  and  the 
diflerencc  of  their  lengths,  is  upwards  of  6000  miles.  Its  ecliptic 
and  equator  are  nearly  coincident ;  that  is,  its  axis  is  nearly  per- 
pendicular to  the  plane  of  its  orbit.  Hence  this  planet  lias  no  sen- 
sible change  of  seasons.  If  its  axis  were  incUned  any  considerable 
number  of  degrees  towards  the  plane  of  its  orbit,  just  so  many  de- 
grees round  each  pole  would,  in  their  turn,  be  almost  six  years  to- 
gether in  total  darkness.  It  revolves  on  its  axis  in  9  hours,  55  min- 
utes; and  round  the  sun  \i\  11  years,  3!4  days,  18  hours,  45  min- 
utes. Its  hourly  motion  in  its  orbit  is  30,000  miles.  From  a  com- 
parison of  the  most  ancient,  with  the  inodern  observations,  there  is 
some  reason  to  conclude,  that  the  period  of  its  revolution  is  decreas- 
ing. Jupiter  is  surrounded  by  faint  substances,  called  belts.  These 
were  discovered  in  1665.  Tliey  are  parallel  to  each  other,  and  to 
the  equator  of  tne  planet.  The  quantity  of  light  and  heat  enjoyed 
by  Jupiter,  is  to  that  enjoyed  by  the  Earth,  as  37  to  1000. 

Saturn.  The  diameter  of  Saturn  is  79,042  miles,  and  its  distance 
frorn  the  sun  is  901,668,908  miles.  Its  bulk  is  proportioned  to  that 
of  the  earth  nearly,  as  1000  to  1.  Its  density,  as  26  to  288,  and  its 
weight,  as  98  to  1,  A  body  weighing  lib.  on  the  earth,  would 
weigh  1-02  on  this  planet.  It  is  an  oblate  spheroid,  its  axis  being 
to  its  equatorial  diameter,  as  10  to  1  i.     It  revolves  on  its  axis  in  10 


INTRODUCTION.  35 

hours,  16  minutes,  2  seconds,  and  round  the  sun  in  29  years,  166 
days,  15  hours,  25  minutes.  Its  hourly  motion  in  its  orbit  is  about 
22,000  miles.  The  intensity  of  the  sun's  light  and  heat,  is  about  9^ 
times  greater  at  the  Earth,  than  at  Saturn.  This  planet  has  belts 
discoverable  on  its  disc  ;  but  they  are  not  so  large  or  numerous  as 
the  belts  of  Jupiter.  The  most  remarkable  appearance,  however, 
attending  this,  or  indeed  any  of  the  planets,  is  a  large  ring,  entirely 
separated  from  the  planet  itself,  and  yet  completely  surrounding  it. 
The  plane  of  the  ring  coincides  with  the  plane  of  Saturn's  equator, 
so  that  the  axis  of  the  planet  makes  a  right  angle  with  it.  When 
the  outer  edge  of  the  ring  is  turned  towards  the  earth,  it  is  invisi- 
ble, except  with  telescopes  of  very  gieat  powers ;  eitlier  on  ac- 
count of  its  thinness,  or  of  its  almost  total  incapacity  to  reflect  light. 
The  ring  is  double,  or  is  composed  of  two  rings,  having  the  same 
plane  and  the  same  centre.  The  outside  diameter  of  the  larger 
ring  is  204,883  miles,  and  its  inner  diameter  190,248  miles;  so  that 
tlie  breadth  is  7318  miles.  The  outside  diameter  of  the  smaller 
ring  is  184,393  miles,  its  inner  diameter  146,345,  and  its  breadth 
19,024.  The  space  between  the  rings  is  2,977  miles.  There  is  no 
visible  connection  between  the  two  rings.  They  both,  however, 
revolve  on  a  common  axis,  in  10  hours,  32  minutes,  15  seconds  ; 
a  period  longer  than  that  of  Saturn's  rotation  by  16  minutes,  13 
seconds.  The  ring  is  doubtless  no  less  solid  than  the  planet ;  and 
it  is  observed  to  cast  a  strong  shadow  upon  it.  Its  light  is  also  gen- 
erally brighter  than  that  of  the  planet,  for  it  appears  sufficiently 
bright  when  the  telescope  scarcely  affords  light  enough  for  Saturn. 
The  thickness  of  the  ring  is  probably  less  than  1000  miles,  and  its 
outer  edge  is  not  flat,  but  spherical.  As  the  planet  revolves  round 
the  sun,  the  plane  of  the  ring  is  always  parallel  with  itself,  so  that 
in  each  Saturnian  year,  it  is  twice  turned  edgewise  towards  the 
sun. 

HerscheL  This  planet  is  called  in  England  Georgium  sidus,  on 
the  continent  of  Europe,  Uranius.,  and  generally,  in  this  country, 
HerscheL  There  is  no  reason  to  believe  that  it  had  ever  been  ob- 
served by  any  inhabitant  of  the  Earth  before  the  13th  of  March, 
1781,  when  it  was  discovered  by  Dr.  HerscheL  Its  diameter  is 
35,1 12  miles,  and  its  distance  from  the  sun,  is  1,803,534,392.  Its 
hourly  motion  in  its  orbit  is  1 5,000  miles.  Its  bulk,  compared  with 
that  of  the  Earth,  is  nearly  as  90  tol,  audits  weight  as  16-84  to  I.  A 
body  on  the  Earth  weighing  lib.  would  weigh  0-931b.  in  this  planet. 
The  period  of  its  revolution  round  the  sun  is  83  years,  150  days,  18 
hours.  It  has  not  yet  been  determined  whether  it  revolves  on  an. 
axis.  Yet  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  this  fact,  as  its  shape  is  that  of 
an  oblate  spheroid.  The  quantity  of  light  and  heat,  communicated 
to  the  Earth  by  the  sun,  is  at  least  360  times  as  great',  as  that  enjoy- 
ed by  Herschel ;  and  the  diameter  of  the  sun,  as  seen  from  it,  is  not 
more  than  twice  the  apparent  diameter  of  the  planet  Venus,  as 
seen  from  the  Earth.  The  plane  of  its  orbit  is  nearly  coincident 
with  the  plane  of  the  ecliptic.  Owing  to  its  immense  distance  few 
discoveries  have  been  made  respecting  it. 

Satellitts.     A  satellite,  or  ip.oon,  is  a  body  revolving  round  a 
4 


26  INTRODUCTION. 

planet,  and,  in  cotnpany  with  the  planet,  round  the  sun.  Of  these' 
there  are  18  in  our  system,  distributed  in  the  following  manner  :■ 
1  to  the  Earth  ;  4  to  Jupiter  ;  7  to  Saturn  ;  and  6  to  Herschel. 

The  Moon.  The  moon's  diameter  is  2 1 80  miles.  This  is  to  the 
diameter  of  the  Earth  nearly  as  20  to  73.  Its  surface  is  to  that  of 
the  Earth  as  1  to  1 3^  ;  its  bulk  as  I  to  49  ;  its  density  as  5  to  4 
nearly  ;  and  its  weight  as  1  to  39.  Its  mean  distance  from  the 
Earth  is  239,029  miles,  which  is  to  the  sun's  mean  distance  nearly 
ly  as  1  to  390.  The  angle  which  its  orbit  makes  with  the  ecliptic 
Varies  from  5  degrees  to  5  18  The  moon  revolves  round  the  Earth 
in  27  days,  7  hours,  43  minutes.  The  interval  of  time  between  one 
new  moon  and  the  next,  is  29  days,  12  hours,  44  minutes.  If  the 
Earth  stood  still,  or  had  no  revolution  round  the  sun,  every  month 
•would  be  of  the  former  length  ;  but  as  the  Earth,  during  a  lunary 
revolution,  materially  alters  its  place,  it  takes  the  moon  2  days  5 
hours  to  regain  what  it  has  lost  by  the  earth's  motion.  Tiie  moon's 
orbit,  to  a  spectator  on  the  sun,  always  appears  concave.  In  difter- 
ent  parts  of  its  orbit  the  apparent  size  of  the  moon  is  found  to  vary. 
This  is  owing  to  the  elliptical  shape  of  the  orbit.  It  is  found  by 
observation,  that  the  moon  always  turns  the  same  side  towards  the 
Earth.  Hence  it  must  perform  a  rotation  on  an  axis,  and  the  time 
of  this  rotation  must  be  equal  to  the  time  of  the  moon's  synodic 
revolution,  or  29  days,  12  hoUrs,  44  minutes.  Hence,  also,  though 
the  lunar  year  is  of  equal  length  with  ours,  yet  it  contains  only  a- 
bout  12^  days,  every  lunar  day  being  a  little  longer  than  291  of  our 
days.  The  side  of  the  moon,  which  is  towards  the  Earth,  during 
its  day,  receives  light  both  from  tlie  sun  and  from  the  Earth  ;  andi 
during  its  nigln,  only  the  light  of  the  Earth.  The  other  side  of  the 
moon  has,  half  of  the  time,  the  light  of  the  sun  ;  and  the  other  half 
is  in  total  darkness.  The  spots,  visible  on  the  moon,  are  occasion- 
ed by  the  mountains  and  vallies  on  its  surface.  These  mountains 
were  formerly  supposed  to  be  of  a  very  great  height.  This,  how- 
ever is  a  mistake.  The  highest  observed  by  Herschel,  is  IyVo"  ^i^^. 
Very  few  of  the  others  are  more  than  half  a  mile.  It  is  not  deter- 
mined whether  the  moon  has  an  atmosphere.  No  clouds  or  va- 
pours, hoAvevcr,  can  be  discovered  near  its  surface.  When  the 
moon  is  in  conjunction  Avith  the  sun,  she  is  said  to  be  neiu^  and  is 
then  invisible  :  As  she  goes  eastward  she  appears  horned^  till  she 
gets  90  degrees  from  the  sun,  when  she  appears  half  enlightened, 
OY  dichotomized  ;  from  thence,  till  she  comes  into  opposition,  she 
appears  more  than  half  enlightened  ov  gibbous  ;  and  at  opposition 
she  appearsyu/^.  From  opposition  to  conjunction  her  apparent 
bright  part  decreases,  as  it  before  increased.  Mr.  Bouguer,  from 
experiments  on  lunar  light,  concludes  that  300,000  moons  would 
not  make  a  stronger  light,  than  that  of  clear  bright  sunshine.  The 
light  of  the  moon  condensed  by  the  best  mirrors  produces  no  sen- 
sible effect  upon  the  thermometer.  The  earth  in  the  course  of  a 
month  shows  the  same  phases  to  the  lunarians,  as  the  moon  does  to 
ns ;  the  earth  is  at  the  full,  at  the  time  of  new  moon,  and  new  at 
the  time  of  full  moon.     The  surface  of  the  earth  being  about  IS 


INTRODUCTION.  27 

(times  greater  than  that  of  the  moon,  it  affords  13  times  more  light 
to  the  moon,  than  the  moon  does  to  us. 

It  is  remarkable,  that,  when  the  moon  is  full,  near  the  middle  of 
September,  there  is  less  difference  between  the  times  of  two  suc- 
cessive risings,  than  there  is,  when  she  is  full  at  any  other  season 
of  the  year.  By  this  means  she  affords  an  almost  immediate  sup- 
ply of  light,  after  sunset,  for  a  whole  week  together,  which  is  very 
beneficial  at  that  season  for  gathering  in  the  fruits  of  the  earth. 
Hence  this  full  moon  is  called  the  Harvest  Moon. 

Eclipses.  An  eclipse  of  the  moon  is  caused  by  its  entering  into 
the  earth's  shadow,  and  consequently  it  must  happen  at  the  full 
moon,  or  when  she  is  in  opposition  to  the  sun,  as  tlie  shadow  of  the 
earth  must  lie  opposite  to  the  sun.  An  eclipse  of  the  sun  is  caused 
by  the  interposition  of  the  moon  between  tlie  earth  and  sun,  and 
therefore  it  must  happen  when  the  moon  is  in  conjunction  with  the 
sun,  or  at  the  new  moon. 

If  the  plane  of  the  moon's  orbit  coincided  with  the  plane  of  the 
ecliptic,  there  would  be  an  eclipse  at  every  conjunction  and  oppo- 
sition ;  but  the  plane  of  the  moon's  orbit  being  inclined  to  the  plane 
of  the  ecliptic,  there  can  be  no  eclipse  at  conjunction  or  opposition, 
unless  at  that  time  the  moon  be  at,  or  near,  the  node. 

The  ecliptic  limits  of  the  sun  arc  to  those  of  the  moon,  as  17  2] 
to  1 1  34,  or  nearly  as  3  to  2,  and  hence  thei'c  will  be  more  solar 
than  lunar  eclipses,  in  about  that  ratio.  But  more  lunar  than  so- 
lar eclipses  are  seen  at  any  given  place,  because  a  lunar  eclipse  is 
visible  to  a  whole  hemisphere  of  the  earth  at  once  ;  whereas  a  so- 
lar eclipse  is  visible  to  a  part  only,  and  therefore  there  is  a  greater 
probability  of  seeing  a  lunar,  than  a  solar  eclipse.  Since  the  moon 
is  as  long  above  the  horizon  as  below,  every  spectator  may  expect 
to  see  half  the  number  of  lunar  eclipses  which  happen. 

If  the  earth  had  no  atmosphere,  when  the  moon  was  totally  e- 
clipsed,  she  would  be  invisible  ;  but  by  the  refraction  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, some  rays  will  be  brought  to  fall  on  the  moon's  surface, 
on  which  account  the  moon  is  rendered  visible,  and  of  a  dusky  red 
color. 

An  eclipse  of  the  moon  arising  from  a  real  deprivation  of  light, 
must  appear  to  begin  at  the  same  instant  of  time  to  every  place  on 
that  hemisphere  of  the  Eaith,  which  is  next  the  moon.  Hence,  it 
affords  a  ready  method  of  finding  the  longitudes  of  places  upon  the 
Earth's  surface. 

The  diameters  of  the  sun  and  moon  are  supposed  to  be  divided 
into  12  equal  parts,  called  digits.,  and  an  eclipse  is  said  to  be  so 
jnany  digits,  according  to  the  number  of  those  parts,  which  are  in* 
volved  at  the  greatest  darkness. 

The  greatest  number  of  eclipses,  which  can  happen  in  a  year,  is 
seven,  and  when  this  happens,  five  will  be  of  the  sun,  and  two  of  the 
moon.  The  least  number  which  can  happen  is  two,  and  these 
must  be  both  solar  ;  for  in  every  year  there  must  be  two  solar  e- 
clipses.     The  mean  number  in  a  year  is  about  four. 

In  a  total  eclipse  of  the  sun,  the  planets,  and  some  of  the  bright* 
est  of  the  fixed  stars  have  been  seen. 


28  LNTRODUCTION. 

Jupiter's  Moons.  These  are  four  in  number,  and  were  discov- 
ered by  Galileo,  Jan.  8,  1600.  Their  distances  from  the  planet, 
periodical  times,  8tc.  may  be  learnt  from  the  tables  at  the  close  of 
our  account  of  the  solar  system.  The  first  and  third  are  larger 
than  the  earth  :  the  second  and  fourth  are  considerably  less  than 
Venus,  though  larger  than  Mars.  They  all  revolve  on  their  axes, 
and  also  round  the  phirvet,  from  west  to  east. 

The  progressive  motion  and  velocity  of  light  was  discovered  by 
observations  on  the  satellites  of  Jupiter.  These  satellites  are 
eclipsed  at  regular  intervals,  and  tables  of  the  times  when  these 
eclipses  are  to  happen,  are  constantly  published.  It  is  found  that, 
when  the  earth  is  exactly  between  Jupiter  and  the  sun,  his  satel- 
lites appear  eclipsed  8^  minutes  sooner,  than  they  would  be  accord- 
ing to  the  tables  ;  but  that,  when  the  earth  is  at  its  greatest  dis- 
tance from  Jupiter,  these  eclipses  happen  about  81  minutes  later, 
than  the  tables  predict  thern.  Hence  it  follows  that  light  takes  up 
16~  minutes  in  passing  over  the  diameter  of  the  earth's  orbit, 
which  is  about  190  millions  of  miles.  This  is  nearly  at  the  rate  of 
200,000  miles  a  second.  By  means  of  them  also  Jupiter's  distance 
from  the  earth  may  be  discovered,  and  the  longitudes  of  places  on 
the  earth's  surface. 

Satellites  oj' Saturn.  Of  these  Huygens  discovered  the  fourth 
in  1665  ;  Cassini  the  fifth  in  1671,  the  third  in  1672,  the  first  and 
second  in  1684' ;  and  Herschel  the  sixth  in  1787,  and  the  seventh 
in  1788.  These  last  arc  nearer  to  Saturn,  than  the  other  five  ;  but, 
to  prevent  confusion  in  the  numbers  with  regard  to  former  obser- 
vations, they  are  called  the  sixth  and  seventh.  The  tables  exhibit 
their  periods  and  distances  from  their  primary.  The  third  satellite 
is  the  largest  of  all ;  the  first  and  fourth  are  nearly  of  the  same 
size. 

Satellites  oj"  Herschel.  These  are  six  in  number.  The  second 
and  fourth  were  discovered  by  Herschel  in  1787  ;  and,  what  is  en- 
tirely singular  in  our  system,  he  observed,  that  their  orbits  made 
an  angle  of  more  than  99  degrees  with  the  ecliptic  of  the  primary. 
The  otlicr  four  were  also  discovered  by  Herschel.  The  first  and 
fifth  in  1790,  and  the  other  two  in  1794.  Their  light  is  exti^mely 
fault ;  but  the  fourth  is  somewhat  the  brightest.  The  sixth,  at  its 
greatest  distance,  is  farther  removed  from  the  earth  than  any  body, 
if  we  except  the  comets,  that  is  known  to  belong  to  our  system. 
Of  all  the  bodies  hitherto  described,  the  satellitesof  Herschelalone 
revolve  fiom  east  to  west,  or  in  a  retrograde  direction. 

Jsteroidx*  These  bodies  were  entirely  unknown,  till  the  com- 
xnencement  of  the  present  century.  They  appear  of  the  size  of  stars 
of  the  8th  magnitude.  It  was  owing  to  their  diminutive  size,  that 
Herschel  rtfused  them  a  place  among  the  planets,  and  gave  them 
the  name  of  Asteroids,  though  they  are  really  primary  planets,  re- 
volviiig  round  the  sun. 

Ceres  was  discovered  by  Joseph  Piozzi,  at  the  royal  observatory 
at  Palermo,  January  1,  1801.     It  appears  like  a  star  of  the  7th  or 


•  From  a^fi  staff  and  aSo;  af^earance. 


INTRODUCTION. 


29 


$th  maj^nitude.  Its  diameter  is  estimated  by  Dr.  Herschel  at  1 60 
miles,  but  this  cannuot  be  relied  oii  as  exact.  All  the  astt  voids 
are  too  sn'.ali  to  be  measured  with  precision.  Their  orbits  arc  all 
between  those  of  Mars  and  Jupiter.  Ceres  revolves  in  4  years,  7 
months,  10  days.  Its  mean  distance  from  the  sun  is  263,533,000 
miles. 

Pallas  was  discovered  by  Dr.  Olbers  of  Bremen,  March  28,  1802. 
It  appears  sometimes  like  a  star  of  the  7lh  map,nitude,  and  some- 
times considerably  less.  Its  diameter  is  I  10  miles.  Its  periodical 
revolution  is  4  years,  7  months,  1 1  days  ;  and  its  distance  from  the 
sun  267,438,000  miles.  The  orbits  of  Ceres  and  Pallas  are  said  to 
cross  each  otlier. 

Juno  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Harding,  at  Lilienthal,  near  Bre- 
men, September  1st,  1804.  It  appears  like  a  star  of  the  8th  mag- 
nitude. Its  periodical  revolution  is  a  little  Ioniser  than  those  of 
Ceres  and  Pallas.  Its  diameter  is  119  miles.  Its  distance  from 
the  sun  is  286,541,000  miles. 

Vesta  was  discovered  by  Dr.  Olbers,  March  29,  1807.  It  may 
be  seen  by  the  naked  eye,  like  a  star  of  the  fifth  or  sixtii  magnitude, 
and  very  much  like  the  planet  Herschel.  The  aiii^le  whicn  its  di- 
ameter subtends,  is  about  half  a  second.  Its  periodical  revoiuiion 
is  3  years,  2  months,  5  days,  and  its  mean  distance,  206,596,000 
miles.  These  elements  all  require  to  be  corr'ected  by  future  obser- 
vations. 

\  TABLE    OF    ASTEROIDS. 


Names. 

IVhen  l)isco-vered. 

Periodical 
time. 

Distance  f I  om  the 
Sun. 

Inclin     on 
of  the  Orbit 

Eccen- 
tricity. 

Vesta 
Ceres 
Pallas 

Juno 

March  29,    1807 
January  1,    180! 
March  28,    lacl- 

Scptem.  I,    18U4 

y.     m.     d 

5      2 

4       7         h 

4      7       1  i 
.  jngert/uii 
ihctnvoluc  ■ . 

206,596,C0(i 
263,663,000 
267,438,000 

286.541,000 

o 

7      8 
10   %7 

34   40 

0-095 
0-097 
0-246 

0-25 

Thus,  of  the  30  bodies,  beside  the  comets,  belonging-  to  our  sys- 
tem, only  eight  were  known  to  the  ancients  ;  viz.  the  Sun,  Mercu- 
ry, Venus,  the  Earth,  the  Moon,  Mars,  Jupiter,  and  Saturn.  Of 
the  remaining  22,  4  were  discovered  in  the  l6th  century  ;  viz.  Jupi- 
ter's 4  moons,  by  Galileo  :  5  in  the  1 7th  century  ;  viz.  Satuni's fourth 
moon  by  Huygens  ;  and  his  first,  second,  third,  and  fifth.,  by  Cas- 
sini :  9  in  the  18lh  century  ;  viz.  Saturn's  sixth  and  seventh  moons, 
the  planet  Herschel,  and  his  six  moons,  all  by  Dr.  Herschel  :  and 
four  already  in  the  19lh  ;  viz.  Ceres,  by  Piozzi ;  Pallas,  by  Oibers  j 
Juno,  by  Harding  :  and  Vesta,  by  Oibers. 

Comets.  Coinets  are  bodies  revolving  in  very  eccentric  ellipses 
about  the  sun  in  one  of  the  foci.  When  a  comet  is  west  of  the  sun, 
and  sets  after  it,  it  is  said  to  be  tailed ;  because  a  train  of  light  fol- 


so  INTRODUCTION. 

lows  it,  in  manner  of  a  tail.  When  the  sun  and  the  comet  are  on 
opposite  sides  of  the  earth,  the  train  is  principally  hid  behind  the 
body  of  the  comet,  and  the  little  that  appears  has  the  form  of  a 
border  of  hair,  or  coma.,  whence  it  is  called  hairy  ;  and  whence  the 
name  comet  is  derived.  The  substance  of  the  bodies  of  comets 
must  be  extremely  solid,  or  they  would  be  dissipated  in  their  peri- 
helion, or  nearest  approach  to  the  sun.  According  to  Sir  Isaac 
Newton,  the  comet  of  1680  endured  a  heat  28,000  times  as  great 
as  that  of  the  sun,  in  midsummer  ;  or  about  9,000  times  as  great 
as  the  heat  of  boiling  water  ;  or  2,000  times  as  great  as  the  heat 
of  red  hot  iron.  Little  is  ascertained  respecting  the  real  magni- 
tudes of  comets.  Their  apparent  magnitudes  are  also  very  various. 
That,  which  appeared  in  the  time  of  Nero,  was,  as  Seneca  relates, 
apparently  as  large  as  the  sun  ;  and  that  of  1652,  according  to  He- 
velius,  did  not  seem  to  be  less  than  the  moon,  though  of  a  very 
pale,  dim  light. 

The  number  of  comets  belonging  to  our  system  has  never  been 
ascertained.  Conjecture  has  limited  it  to  450.  The  elements  of 
97  of  them  have  been  determined  with  some  degree  of  accuracy. 
The  angles,  which  their  orbits  made  with  the  plane  of  the  ecliptic, 
were  found  to  vary  from  I  to  88  degrees.  The  perihelion  distance 
of  the  comet  of  1351,  was  just  equal  to  the  earth's  mean  distance. 
The  perihelion  distance  ot  24  of  the  others,  w^as  greater  than  this, 
and  of  the  remaining  72,  less.  Tlve  least  distance  of  the  comet  of 
1680,  was  only  122,000  miles  from  the  surface  of  the  sun;  while 
its  greatest  distance  was  12,189,000,000  miles.  The  perihelion 
distance  of  the  comet  of  1759  is  about  52,000,000  miles  ;  its  aphe- 
lion distance  3,342,500,000.  These  are  the  only  two  comets  whose 
periods  are  known.  Ihatofthe  latter  is  about  76  years.  It  ap- 
peared in  1759,  1682,  1607,  1531,  and  1456;  and  will  probably  re- 
appear in  1835.  The  period  of  the  former  is  575  years.  It  ap- 
peared in  1680,  1 106,  531,  and  in  44,  before  Christ,  and  probably 
%vill  not  re-appear,  till  2255.  There  is  also  strong  reason  to  con- 
clude, that  the  comet  of  1264  was  the  same  with  that  of  1556.  If 
so,  its  period  is  292  years;  and  it  ought  to  appear  again  in  1848. 
Dr.  Ilalley  imagined,  that  the  comet  of  1661  was  the  same  with 
that  of  1532  ;  and  that  its  period  was  129  years  ;  but  in  1790,  it 
was  found  to  have  violated  its  engagements.  Dr.  Ilalley  had  the 
honor  first  to  foretel  the  return  of  a  comet.  It  was  the  comet  of 
J 759.  The  velocity  of  a  comet  increases  as  it  approaches  the  sun. 
That  of  1680,  in  its  perihelion,  moved  with  the  amazing  velocity 
of  880,000  miles  an  hour.  The  comet  of  1744,  had  a  tail  of  the 
length  of  23,000,000  of  miles  ;  and  that  1759, of  more  than  40,000,000. 
The  orbits  of  comets  make  very  different  angles  with  the  plane  of 
the  ecliptic  :  50  out  of  the  97,  whose  elements  have  been  calculat- 
ed, had  a  direct  motion,  or  from  west  to  east ;  and  47  from  east  to 
west.  The  comet  of  1  680,  on  the  1 1th  of  November,  at  I  hour,  6 
minutes,  P.  M.  was  only  4000  miles  north  of  the  orbit  of  the  earth. 
If  the  earth  at  that  time,  had  been  in  the  part  of  its  orbit  nearest  to 
the  comet,  their  mutual  gravitation  must  have  caused  a  change  in 
the  plane  of  the  earth's  orbit,  and  in  the  length  of  our  year. 


INTRODUCTION, 


31 


The  following  tables,  taken,  with  some  alterations,  from  Clarke's 
Commentary  on  the  Bible,  will  present  a  full  and  interesting  sum- 
mary of  the  bodies  in  our  solar  system,  together  with  their  magni- 
tudes, distances,  periods,  Sec. 


TABLE  I.   SUN  AND  PLANETS. 


Buli, 

Weight,   Time    of  rota- 

Inclination 

Hourly 

Weight 
OfMbat 

Names. 

Diameter 

the    Earth  the  Earth      tion  on  their 

of  axis  to 

motion     in 

being  1. 
1,380,000 

being  1.           axis. 

Equator- 

tbeirorbits  ' 

surface, 
27-7 

Sua 

883,246 

d.    h.    m.    s. 
333,928  25   14    8     0 

Mercury 

3,224 

1 
TT 

0-1654 

unknown 

unknown 

111,256 

10333 

Venus 

7,687 

£ 

0-8899 

23  22    0 

75°00' 

81,398 

0-9771 

Earth 

7,928 

1 

1 

23  56    4 

23  28 

75,222 

1-0000 

Moon 

2,180 

^V 

1 
■ST 

27     7  43    5 

I   43 

2,335 

0-1677 

Mars 

4,189 

7 

1400 

00875 

1     0  59  22 

28   42 

56,212 

03355 

Jupiter 

89,170 

5121 

9  55  33 

3   22 

30,358 

2-3287 

Saturn 

79,042 

1000 

97-76 

10    16 14 

SO  00 

22,351 

10154 

Sat.  Ring 

204,883 

10  32  15 

30  00 

22,351 

Herschel 

55,112 

90 

16-84 '    unknown 

unknown 

15,846 

0-9285 

^Mean  distances 

Proportion\Inclination  of  Periodical  Revalu- 

Names. 

from  the  Sun. 

of  Liyht\   orbits  to  the 

tion 

Sidereal  Revolution 

Iff   Heat 

Ecliptic. 

O       1         II 

J.    A.  h.  m.  s. 

y.    d    h.  m.  s. 

Mercury 

36,583,825 

6-25 

7     0     0 

0    87  23  14  S3 

0  87  23  15  40 

Venus 

68,360,058 

2-04 

3  23  45 

0  224  16  41  27 

0  224  16  49  11 

Earth 

94,507,428 

I- 

1       0    5  48  48 

1      0    6     9  12 

Moon 

94,507,428 

1- 

5     9     0 

0    27     7  43    5 

0    27    7  43  12 

Mars 

144,000,023 

0-44375 

1   51     0 

1  S21  22   18  27 

1  321  23   30  36 

Jupiter 

491,702,30; 

0-036875 

1    19  \5 

11  315  14  39     2 

11  317  14  27  11 

Saturn 

901,668,90R 

0-01106 

2  30  45 

29  164     7  21  50 

29 17614  36  43 

Sat  Ring     901,668,908 

0-01106 

29  164     7  21  50 

29  176  14  36  43 

Herschel  1,803,534,392  000276 

0  48     0 

83  294    8  39     0 

84    29    0  29    0 

TABLE  II.   ASTEROIDS. 


' 

Diam-  1  Propor- 

Propor- 

Dittance  from 

Inclination  of 

Names 

eter,   in      tional 

tional 

the  Sun, 

Periods. 

orbit  to  the 

miles. 

bulk. 

surface. 

Ecliptic. 

y.     d.     h.     m.     s. 

0          1, 

Ceres 

I61-6y2,VoO 

1 
■JToo" 

250,000,000 

4.  21313  41  56 

10  37  34. 

Pallas 

1  in   '      1 

5-jW 

270,000,000 

33     0  42 

Juno 

IIQ    ■        1 

1 

4?C"0" 

285,000,000 

13 

[Vesta            1              ( 

7     5  50 

32  INTRODUCTION. 

TABLE  III.     Jupiter's  satellites. 


SaUl- 

Bulk, the  Bistancefrom 

Periodic  Hevalu- 

Synodic  Re-volu- 

Greatest distance 

lites.    Diameter. 

Earth 

Juf,ter. 

tion. 

tion. 

from  the  Earth . 

being  1. 

1  d.    h.    m.    s. 

d.    h     m.    s. 

I. 

■^50 

266,000 

I  1 8  27  S3 

1  I8  2S36 

II. 

6 
\  0 

423,000 

3  13  13  42 

3  13  17  54 

ill. 

1     3 

676,000 

7    3  42  33 

7    3.59  36 

IV. 

2  i 
SIS 

[1,189,000 

16  16  32    8 

161851    7 

TABLE  IV.   SATELLITES  OF  SATURN. 


Satellites.  Distance  from  Saturn. 

Periodic   Revolution. 

Synodic  Revolution 

d.     h.     m.     s. 

d.     h.     m.    s. 

VII. 

107,000 

0   22  37  23 

0  22  37  30 

VI. 

135,000 

1      8  53     9 

1     8  53  24 

I. 

170,000 

1    21    18  26 

1   21   18  55 

II. 

217,000 

2    17  44  51 

2  17  45  51 

III. 

303,000 

4    \2  25  \l 

4  12  27  55 

IV. 

704,000 

\5    22  41    13 

15  23  15  20 

V. 

2,050,000 

79      7  53  42 

73  22     3  13 

TABLE  V.   SATELLITES  OF  HERSCHEL. 


Satellites. 

Distancefrom  Herschel. 

Periodic  Revolution. 

Synodic  Revolution,  1 

d.     h.     m.    s. 

d.     h.     m.    s. 

I. 

226,450 

5  21   23  22 

5  21  25    0 

II. 

293,053 

8  16  51  43 

8  17     1  19 

III. 

342,784 

10  22  58  20 

10  23     4     0 

IV. 

392,514 

13   10  56  29 

13  11     5     1 

V. 

785,028 

38     0  39     4 

38     1  49     0 

VI. 

1.570,057 

107     7  35  10 

107   16  40    0 

OF  THE  FIXED  STARS 

Those  Stars,  which,  when  seen  by  the  naked  eye,  or  through  tel- 
escopes, keep  constantly  in  the  same  situation  with  respect  to  each 
other,  are  called  fixed  starn.  They  are  easily  distinguished  from 
the  planets  by  their  twinkling.  They  appear  of  various  magni- 
tudes. This  may  arise  fiom  their  different  sizes,  or  distances,  or 
both.  Astronomers  have  distinguished  them,  from  their  apparent 
magnitudes,  into  six  classes.  Tht  first  contains  those  of  the  largest 
apparent  size,  the  second  those  which  appear  next  in  bigness  ;  and 
t>o  on  to  the  sixth,  which  includes  all  those  that  can  just  be  seen 
Avithout  telescopes.  Those,  which  can  be  seen  only  by  the  help  of 
the  telescope,  are  called  telcscofAc  stars. 


INTRODUCTION.  33 

Number  of  stars  of  each  magnitude. 


Place. 

Magnitudes. 

1st 

2d 

3d     4t.h     5th 

6th 

Total. 

In  the  Zodiac                           5 

16 

44      120     183 

646 

1014 

In  the  Northern  Hemisphere  6 

24 

95      200     291 

635 

1251 

In  the  Southern  Hemisphere  9 

36 

84      190     221 

323 

865 

Total  20       76      223     512    695     1604   3130 

The  stars  in  the  preceding  table  are  so  numerous,  that  it  would  be 
impossible  to  furnish  names  for  them  all  and  retain  those  names  in 
the  memory.  To  remedy  this  inconvenience  the  ancients  distribut- 
ed them  into  consrel/alions,  to  which  they  gave  the  names  of  birds, 
beasts,  fishes,  Sec.  from  an  imaginary  resemblance  between  the 
forms  of  the  constellations,  and  of  those  animals.  The  stars  of 
each  constellation  are  numbered,  according  to  their  magnitude, 
by  the  letters  of  the  Greek  alphabet,  x  is  the  largest,  /3  the  second, 
y  the  third,  Sec.  This  division  of  the  heavens  was  very  ancient ; 
for  some  of  the  constellations  are  mentioned  by  Homer  and  Hesiod, 
by  Amos  and  Job. 

The  whole  number  of  the  constellations  is  90.  Of  these  48  are 
ancient,  and  42  modern  ;  33  north  of  the  Zodiac,  12  in  the  Zodiac, 
and  45  south  of  it.  Those  stars,  which  have  never  been  arranged 
into  constellations,  are  called  unformed  stars.  Those,  whose  dis- 
tance from  the  nearest  pole  is  less  than  the  latitude  of  the  place, 
never  set  below  the  horizon,  and  are  called  circumfiolar  stars.  The 
circles,  which  they  appear  to  describe  in  consequence  of  the  earth's 
rotation,  ai'C  called  cirr/e*  of  p.erpeHial  a[iparition.  Those  stai's, 
whose  distance  from  the  farthest  pole,  is  less  than  the  latitude  of 
the  place,  never  I'ise  above  the  horizon.  They  also  receive  the 
same  name  ;  and  the  circles,  which  they  appear  to  describe,  are 
called  circles  of  fierjietual  occultation. 

The  real  number  of  the  fixed  stars  cannot  be  ascertained.  Be- 
fore the  invention  of  the  telescope,  it  was  not  supposed  to  surpass 
3000.  But  since  that  event  it  has  been  found,  that  to  the  greater 
perfection  that  instrument  is  brought,  the  greater,  in  a  very  high 
proportion,  is  the  number  of  the  stars,  which  may  be  observed. 
Galileo  found  80  stars  in  the  belt  of  Orion's  sv^ord.  De  Rheita 
counted  188  in  the  Pleiades,  and  more  than  2000  in  the  constella- 
tion of  Orion,  of  which  only  78  are  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  The 
fixed  stars,  as  seen  through  a  telescope,  are  found  to  be  be  collect- 
ed in  clusters.  When  a  small  magnifying  power  is  used,  these 
clusters  appear  like  small  light  clouds,  and  hence  have  been 
called  nebiilx.  Dr.  Herscliel  has  given  a  catalogue  of  more  than 
2000  nebulse,  which  he  has  discovered.  When  these  nebulas  are 
examined  with  a  telescope  of  great  magnifying  power,  they  are 
found  to  consist  of  immense  multitudes  of  stars.  Dr.  Herschel  is 
of  opinion,  that  the  starry  heaven  is  replete  with  these  nebulae  :  that 
each  nebula  is  a  distinct  and  separate  system  of  stars  ;  and  that 
each  star  is  the  sun  or  centre  of  its  ovrn  system  of  planets.  Tli^t 
5 


34  INTRODUCTION. 

Vight,  irregular  zone,  which  we  call  the  Milky  Way,  he  has  very 
carefully  examined,  and  concludes  that  it  is  the  particular  nebula 
to  which  our  sun  belongs.  In  examining  it,  in  the  space  of  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  he  has  seen  the  astonishing  number  of  1 16,000  stars 
pass  through  the  field  of  view  of  a  telescope  of  only  15'  aperture  j 
and,  in  41  minutes,  he  saw  258,000  stars  pass  through  the  field  of 
his  telescope.  It  is  probable  that  each  nebula  in  the  heavens  is  as 
extensive,  and  as  well  furnished  with  stars,  as  the  milky  way  ;  that 
many  nebulae,  within  the  reach  of  the  telescope,  have  not  yet  been 
discovered  ;  and  that  very  many  more  lie  beyond  its  reach,  in  the 
remote  regions  of  the  universe.  If  this  be  true,  the  number  of 
75,000,000,  which  La  Lande  assigned,  as  the  whole  number  of  the 
fixed  stars,  will  be  seen  to  fall  far  short  of  the  truth. 

The  distance  of  the  fixed  stars,  however,  is  so  great,  that  their 
number  will,  probably,  never  be  calculated  with  certainty.  The 
diameter  of  the  earth's  orbit  is  190  millions  of  miles.  Of  course, 
when  the  eye  is  placed  at  one  end  of  this  diameter,  it  is  so  much 
nearer  given  stars,  than  when  at  the  opposite  end.  Yet  this  im- 
mense distance  makes  no  apparent  difference  in  the  size  of  any  of 
them,norany  difference  in  their  relative  situations.  The  distance  of 
the  nearest  fixed  star  is  estimated  tobe  more  than  5,000,000,000,000 
miles  from  us,  a  distance  which  a  cannon  ball,  moving  at  the  rate 
of  480  miles  an  hour,  would  not  pass  over  in  less  than  1,180,000 
years.  Astronomers  generally,  however,  have  calculated  the  dis- 
tance of  the  nearest  fi'xed  star,  at  400,000  times  the  diameter  of  the 
earth *^s  orbit. 

The  real  magnitudes  of  the  fixed  stars  are  not  known.  In  as- 
tronomical calculations  they  are  generally  supposed  to  be  equal  to 
that  of  the  sun. 

With  regard  to  their  nature  we  can  make  nearer  approaches  to 
certainty.  We  know  that  ihcy  shine  by  their  own  light ;  1st,  be- 
cause reflected  liglU  is  too  feeble  to  shine  at  all  to  such  an  immense 
distance,  and  much  more  with  the  bright  lustre  of  the  fixed  stars  ; 
2dly,  because  if  they  borrowed  their  light  from  any  large  luminous 
body  whicl)  was  near  them,  that  body  would  itself  be  visible.  They 
resemble  the  sun  in  several  other  particulars.  Many  of  them  are 
observed  to  revolve  on  an  axis  ;  to  have  spots  on  their  surface,  and 
changeable  spots,  too,  like  those  of  the  sun.  Hence  they  are  very 
fairly  concluded  to  be  suns,  each  one  a  centre  of  light,  and  warmth, 
and  motion  for  its  own  system  of  planets. 

THE    GLOBES,    AND    THEIR    USE. 

A  globe  is  a  round  body,  whose  surface  is  every  whet-e  equally 
remote  from  the  centre.  But  by  the  globes,  sometimes  called  ar' 
/j^f/a/i'-/y6fs,  is  here  meant  two  spherical  bodies,  whose  convex 
surfaces  are  supposed  to  give  a  true  representation  of  the  earth  and 
the  apparent  heavens.  One  of  these  is  called  the  terrestrial,  the 
other  the  celestial  globe.  On  the  convex  surface  of  the  terrestrial 
p-lobe,  all  the  parts  of  the  earth  and  sea  are  delineated  in  their  rel- 
ative size,  form,  and  situation. 


INTRODUCTION.  '3S 

On  the  surface  of  the  celestial  globe,  the  images  of  the  several 
constellations  and  the  unformed  stars  are  delineated  ;  and  the  rel- 
ative magnitude  and  position,  which  the  stars  are  observed  to  have 
in  the  heavens,  are  carefully  preserved. 

In  order  to  render  these  globes  more  useful,  they  are  fitted  up 
with  certain  appurtenances,  whereby  a  great  variety  of  useful  pro- 
blems are  solved  in  a  very  easy  and  expeditious  manner. 

The  brazen  meridian  is  that  ring  in  which  the  globe  hangs  on  its 
axis,  represented  by  two  wires  passing  through  its  poles.  The 
circle  is  divided  into  four  quarters  of  90  degrees  each  ;  in  one 
semicircle  the  divisions  begin  at  each  pole,  and  end  at  90  degrees 
of  the  equator,  wiiere  they  meet.  In  tiie  other  semicircles,  tne  di=- 
visions  begin  at  the  equator,  and  proceed  thence  toward  each  pole, 
where  they  end  at  90  degrees.  The  graduated  side  of  this  brazen 
circle  serves  as  a  meridian  for  any  point  on  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
the  globe  being  turned  about  till  that  point  come  under  it. 

The  hour  circle  is  a  small  circle  of  brass,  divided  into  24  hours, 
the  quarters  and  half  quarters.  It  is  fixtd  on  the  brazen  meridian, 
"with  its  centre  over  the  north  pole  ;  to  the  axis  is  hxed  an  index, 
that  points  out  the  divisions  of  the  hour  circles  as  the  globe  is  turn- 
ed round  its  axis.  Sometimes  the  hour  circle,  with  its  divisionsj 
is  described  or  marked  about  the  north  pole  on  the  surface  of  the 
globe,  and  is  made  to  pass  under  the  mdcx.  In  some  of  Aclams's 
globes,  the  equator  is  used  as  an  hour  circle,  over  which  is  placed 
a  semicircular  wire,  carrying  two  indices,  one  on  the  east  side  of 
the  brazen  meridian,  and  the  other  on  the  west. 

The  horizon  is  represented  by  the  upper  surface  of  the  wooden 
circular  frame  encompassing  the  globe  about  its  middle.  On  this 
wooden  frame  there  is  a  kind  of  perpetual  calendar,  contained  in 
several  concentric  circles.  The  inner  one  is  divided  into  four 
quarters  of  90  degrees  each  ;  the  next  circle  is  divided  into  the  J  2 
months,  with  the  days  in  each  according  to  the  new  style  ;  the  next 
contains  the  12  equal  signs  of  the  zodiac  or  ecliptic,  each  being  di- 
vided into  30  degrees  ;  the  next  the  12  months  and  days  according 
tp  the  old  style  ;  and  there  is  another  circle,  containing  the  32 
points  of  the  compass,  with  their  halves  and  quarters  Although 
these  circles  are  on  most  horizons,  yet  they  are  not  always  placed 
in  the  same  order. 

The  quadrant  of  altitude  is  a  thin  slip  of  brass,  one  edge  of  which 
is  graduated  into  ninety  degrees  and  their  quarters,  equal  to  those 
of  the  meridian.  To  one  end  of  this  is  fixed  a  brass  nut  and  screw, 
by  which  it  is  put  on  and  fastened  to  the  meridian  ;  if  it  be  fixed 
in  the  zenith,  or  pole  of  the  horizon,  then  the  graduated  edge  rep- 
resents a  vertical  circle  passing  through  any  point  of  the  horizon, 
to  which  it  is  directed. 

Beside  these,  there  are  several  circles,  described  on  the  surfaces 
of  both  globes  ;  as  the  equator.,  eclifitic^  circles  of  longitude  and 
right  ascensio7i,  the  tro/iics,  jiolar  circles^  parallels  of  latitude  and 
declination,  on  the  celestial  globe  ;  and  on  the  terrestrial,  the  equa- 
tor, eclijitic,  tro/iici,  fiolar  circles,  fiarallels  of  latitude,  hour  circles. 


3d  INTRODUCTION. 

or  meridians^  to  every  1 5  degrees  ;  and  on  some  globes,  the  sfiirat 
rhumbs  flowing  from  several  centres,  cvWeA  Jiies. 

In  using  the  globes,  keep  the  graduated  side  of  the  meridian  to- 
wards you,  unless  the  problem  require  a  different  position.  With 
respect  to  the  terrestrial,  we  are  to  suppose  ourselves  situated  at  a 
point  on  its  surface ;  with  respect  to  the  celestial,  at  its  centre. 
The  motion  of  the  former  represents  the  real  diurnal  motion  of  the 
earth  ;  that  of  the  latter,  the  apparent  diurnal  motion  of  the  heav- 
ens. 

The  following  Problems,  as  being  most  useful  and  entertaining, 
are  selected  from  a  great  variety  of  others,  which  are  easily  solv- 
ed with  a  terrestrial  globcy  fitted  up  with  the  aforesaid  appurte- 
nances. 

I.      The  latitude  of  a  place  being  given,  to  rectify  the  globe  for  that 

place. 

Let  it  be  required  to  rectify  the  globe  for  the  latitude  of  Boston, 
42  degrees  23  minutes  north. 

Elevate  the  north  pole,  till  the  horizon  cut  the  brazen  meridian 
in  42  23,  and  the  globe  is  then  rectified  for  the  latitude  of  Boston. 
Bring  Boston  to  the  meridian,  and  you  will  find  it  in  the  zenith,  or 
directly  on  the  top  of  the  globe.     And  so  of  any  other  place. 

II.   To  find  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  a  place  on  the  globe. 

Bring  the  given  place  under  that  half  of  the  graduated  brazen 
meridian,  where  the  degrees  begin  at  the  equator,  and  under  the 
graduated  side  of  it ;  then  the  degree  of  the  meridian  over  it  shows 
the  latitude  ;  and  the  degree  of  the  equator,  under  the  meridian, 
shows  the  longitude. 

Thus  Boston  will  be  found  to  lie  in  about  42  23  north  latitude, 
and  71  west  longitude  from  Greenwich. 

III.    To  find  the  sun^s  place  in  the  ecliptic. 

Look  the  day  of  the  month  on  the  horizon,  and  opposite  to  it, 
you  will  find  the  sign  and  degree  the  sun  is  in  that  day.  Thus  on 
the  25th  of  March,  the  sun's  place  is  4|-  degrees  in  .^ries.  Then 
look  for  that  sign  and  degree  in  the  ecliptic  line  marked  on  the 
globe,  and  you  will  find  the  sun's  place  ;  there  fix  on  a  small  black 
patch,  so  is  it  prepared  for  the  solution  of  the  followuig  problems. 

JVote.  The  eaith's  place  is  always  in  the  sign  and  degree  oppo- 
site to  the  sun  ;  thus,  when  the  sun  is  4|  degrees  in  Aries,  the 
earth  is  4^  degrees  in  Libra  ;  and  so  of  any  other. 

IV.    To  find  the  sun's  declination,  that  is,  its  distance  from  the  equi- 
noctial line,  either  northward  or  southward. 

Bring  its  place  to  the  meridian ;  observe  what  degree  of  the 
meridian  lies  over  it,  and  that  is  the  declination.  If  the  sun  lie  on 
the  north  side  of  the  line,  the  declination  is  north,  but  if  on  the 
south  side  the  declination  is  south. 


INTRODUCTION.  $r 

Thus  on  the  20th  of  April  the  sun  has  1 1  i^  degrees  of  north  de- 
clination, but  on  the  'i6th  of  October,  it  has  12^  of  south  declina- 
tion. 

JVote.  The  greatest  declination  can  never  be  more,  either  north 
or  south,  than  the  distance  of  a  tropic  from  the  equator. 

V.   To  find  where  the  sun  is  vertical  on  a7iy  day. 

Bring  the  sun's  place  to  the  meridian,  observe  its  declination,  or 
hold  a  pen  or  wii'e  over  it;  then  turn  the  globe  rouiid,  and  all  those 
countries  which  pass  under  the  wire,  will  have  the  sun  vertical,  or 
nearly  so,  that  day  at  noon.  Thus  on  the  16th  day  of  April,  the 
inhabitants  of  the  north  part  of  Terra  Firma,  Porto-Bello^  FhUi/i' 
pine  Isles,  southern  parts  of  India,  jidys&ima,  Ethiopia,  and  Guinea^ 
have  the  sun  over  their  heads  that  day  at  i2  o'clock. 

J\''ote.  This  appearance  can  only  happen  to  those  who  live  iu 
the  torrid  zone. 

VI.  To  find  at  any  hour  of  the  day,  what  o'clock  it  is  at  any  /dace. 

Bring  the  place  where  you  are,  to  the  brass  meridian  ;  set  the 
index  to  the  hour,  turn  the  globe  till  the  place  you  are  looking  for 
come  under  the  meridian,  and  the  index  will  point  out  the  time  re- 
quired. 

Tl\us  when  it  is  10  o'clock  in  the  morning,  at  Boston,  it  is  24 
minutes  past  12  at  Olinda  in  Brazil,  and  8  at  Mexico  in  New- 
Spain  ;  the  former  being  at  55  degrees  west  longitude,  and  the 
latter  at  iOO  degrees  west  longitude. 

JVote.  By  this  problem  you  may  likewise  see  at  one  view,  in  dis- 
tant countries,  where  the  inhabitants  are  rising,  where  brtakfasting; 
dining,  drinking  tea,  where  going  to  asscinblies,  and  where  to  bed. 

VII.  To  find  at  what  hour  the  sun  rises  and  sets  any  day  in  the  year 
at  a  place,  the  latitude  of  which  does  not  exceed  66i  degrees; 
and  also  on  what  point  of  the  compass  it  rises  and  sets. 

Rectify  the  globe  for  the  latitude  of  the  place  ;  bring  the  sun's 
place  to  the  meridian,  and  set  the  index  to  12  ;  then  turn  the  sun's 
place  to  the  eastern  edge  of  the  horizon,  and  the  index  will  point 
out  the  hour  of  rising  ;  if  you  bring  it  to  the  western  edge  of  the 
horizon,  the  index  will  shew  the  hour  of  setting. 

Thus  on  the  10th  day  of  April,  the  sun  rises  at  half  an  hour  af- 
ter five  o'clock  at  Boston,  and  sets  half  an  hour  before  seven. 

JVote.  In  summer  the  sun  rises  and  sets  a  little  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  east  and  west  points  ;  and  in  winter  a  litllc  to  the  south- 
ward oithcm.  It,  therefore,  when  the  sun's  place  is  brought  to 
the  eastern  and  western  edges  of  the  horizon,  you  look  on  the  lio- 
rizon  directly  against  the  little  patch,  you  will  see  the  point  of  the 
compass  on  which  the  sun  rises  and  sets  that  day. 


38  INTRODUCTION. 

VIII.   Tejind  Che  length  of  the  longest  and  shortest  day^  at  a  given 

filace. 

Rectify  the  globe  for  that  place  ;  if  its  latitude  be  ncith,  bring 
the  beginning  of  Cancer  to  the  meridian  ;  set  the  index  to  12,  then 
bring  the  same  degree  of  Cancer  to  the  east  part  of  the  horizon, 
and  the  index  will  show  the  time  of  the  sun's  rising,  which  dou- 
bled, gives  the  length  of  the  shortest  night. 

If  the  same  degree  be  brought  to  the  western  side,  the  index 
■will  show  the  lime  of  the  sun's  setting,  which  doubled  will  give  the 
length  of  the  longest  day. 

If  we  bring  the  beginning  of  Capricorn  to  the  meridian,  and 
proceed  in  all  respects  as  before,  we  shall  have  the  length  of  the 
longest  night  and  shortest  day. 

Thus  in  the  great  Mogul's  dominions,  the  longest  day  is  1 4  hours, 
and  the  shortest  night  10  hours.  The  shortest  day  is  10  hours, 
,  and  the  longest  night  14  hours. 

At  Petersburg,  the  capital  of  Russia,  the  longest  day  is  about 
19|  hours,  and  the  shortest  night  4|  hours.  The  shortest  day  4^ 
hours,  and  the  longest  night  \9\  hours. 

jYote.  In  all  places  near  the  equator,  the  sun  rises  and  sets  at 
6  o'clock,  through  the  year.  Thence  to  the /zo/cr  circles.)  the  days 
increase  as  the  latitude  increases  ;  so  that  at  those  circles  the  lon- 
gest day  is  24  hours,  and  the  longest  night  the  same.  From  the 
polar  circles,  to  the  poles,  the  days  continue  to  lengthen  into  weeks 
and  months  ;  so  that  at  the  pole,  the  sun  shines  for  six  months  to- 
gether in  summer,  and  is  below  the  horizon  six  months  in  winter^ 
JSTote  also,  that  when  it  is  summer  with  the  northern  inhabitants,  it 
is  winter  with  the  southern,  and  the  contrary  ;  and  every  part  of 
the  world  partakes  of  an  equal  share  of  light  and  darkness. 

IX.    To  measure  the  distance  from  one  place  to  another. 

Only  take  their  distance  with  a  pair  of  dividers,  and  apply  it  to 
the  equinoctial,  that  will  give  the  number  of  degrees  between 
them,  which,  being  multiplied  by  60,  (the  number  of  geographical 
miles  in  one  degree)  gives  the  exact  distance  sought  :  or,  extend 
the  quadrant  of  altitude  from  one  place  to  another,  that  will  show 
the  number  of  degrees  in  like  manner,  which  may  be  reduced  to 
miles  as  before. 

Thus  the  distance  from  London  to  Madrid  is  W^  degrees. 
From  Paris  to  Constantinople  19^  degrees.  From  Bristol  in  Eng- 
land to  Boston  45  degrees,  which,  multiplied  by  69|-,  (the  number 
of  English  miles  in  a  degree)  gives  31271  miles. 

J^fote.  No  place  can  be  further  from  another  than  180  degrees, 
that  being  half  ilie  circumference  of  the  globe,  and  consequently 
the  greatest  distance. 

PROBLEMS  SOLVED  ON  THE  CELESTIAL  GLOBE. 

The  equator,  ecliptic,  tropics,  polar  circles,  horizon  and  brazen 
meridian  are  exactly  alike  on  both  globes.  Both  also  are  rectified 
in  the  same  ma  nner. 


INTRODUCTION.  99 

N.  B.  The  sun's  place  for  any  clay  of  the  year  stands  directly  a- 
gainst  that  day  on  the  horizon  of  tlue  celestial  globe,  as  it  does  on 
that  of  the  terrestrial. 

The  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  celestial  bodies  are  reckoned 
in  a  very  different  manner  from  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  places 
on  the  earth  ;  for  all  terrestrial  latitudes  are  reckoned  from  the  e- 
quator  and  longitudes  from  the  meridian  of  some  remarkable  place, 
as  of  London  by  the  British,  and  of  Paris  by  the  French.  But  the 
astronomers  of  all  nations  agree  in  reckoning  the  latitudes  of  the 
moon,  planets,  comets  and  fixed  stars,  from  the  ecliptic  ;  and  their 
longitudes,  and  that  of  the  sun,  from  the  equinoctial  colure,  and 
from  that  semicircle  of  it,  which  cuts  the  ecliptic  at  the  beginning' 
of  Aries  ;  and  thence  eastward,  quite  round  to  the  same  semicircle 
again.  Consequently  those  stars,  which  lie  between  the  equinoc- 
tial and  the  northern  half  of  the  ecliptic,  have  north  declination, 
but  south  latitude  ;  those  which  lie  between  the  equinoctial  and 
the  southern  half  of  the  ecliptic  have  south  declination,  but  north 
latitude ;  and  all  those  which  lie  between  the  tropics  and  poles 
have  their  declination  and  latitudes  of  the  same  denomination. 

Prob.  I.     To  find  the  right  ascension  and  declination  of  the   sun, 
or  any  fixed  star. 

Bring  the  sun's  place  in  the  ecliptic  to  the  brazen  meridian  ;  then 
that  degree  in  the  equinoctial  which  is  cut  by  the  meridian  is  the 
sun's  right  asce?ision  ;  and  that  degree  of  the  meridian  which  is 
over  the  sun's  place  is  its  declination.  Bring  any  fixed  star  to  the 
meridian,  and  its  right  ascension  will  be  cut  by  the  meridian  in  the 
equinoctial  ;  and  the  degree  of  the  meridian  that  stands  over  it  is 
its  declination.  So  that  right  ascension  and  declination  on  the  ce- 
lestial globe  are  found  in  the  same  manner  as  longitude  and  lati- 
tude on  the  terrestrial. 

II.   To  find  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  a  star. 

If  the  given  star  be  on  the  north  side  of  the  eclipdc,  place  the 
90th  degree  of  the  quadrant  of  altitude  on  the  north  pole  of  the  e- 
cliptic,  where  the  twelve  semicircles  meet,  which  divide  the  eclip- 
tic into  the  twelve  signs  ;  but  if  the  star  be  on  the  south  side  of  the 
ecliptic,  place  the  90th  degree  of  the  quadrant  on  the  south  pole 
of  the  ecliptic  :  keeping  the  90th  degree  of  the  quadrant  on  the 
proper  pole,  turn  the  quadrant  about,  until  its  graduated  edge  cut 
the  star  ;  then  the  number  of  degrees  on  the  quadrant,  between 
the  ecliptic  and  the  star,  is  its  latitude  ;  and  the  degrees  of  the  e- 
eliptic  cut  by  the  quadrant  is  the  star's  longitude,  reckoned  ac- 
cording to  the  sign  in  which  the  quadrant  then  is. 

METHODS    OF    FINDING    THE     LATITUDES      AND      LONGITUDES      Or 
PLAGES    FROM    CELESTIAL    OBSERVATIONS. 

What  is  meant  by  latitude  and  longitude  has  already  been  suf- 
ficiently explained  ;  it  remains  that  we  show  the  methods  of  find- 
ing both  by  celestial  observations. 


40  INTRODUCTION. 

Of  finding  the  latitude.  There  are  two  methods  of  findint;  the 
latitude  of  any  place.  The  first  is  by  observing  the  heit^ht  of  the 
pole  above  the  horizon  ;  the  second  by  discovering  the  distance  of 
the  zenith  of  the  place  from  the  equator.  The  elevation  of  the  pole 
is  always  equal  to  the  latitude  ;  and  is  thus  found.  As  there  is  no 
star,  towards  which  either  pole  points  directly,  fix  upon  some  star 
near  the  pole.  Take  its  greatest  and  least  height  when  it  is  on  the 
meridian.  The  half  of  these  two  sums  (proper  allowance  being 
made  for  the  refraction  of  the  atmosphere)  will  be  the  latitude. 
The  other  method  is  this.  The  distance  of  the  zenith  of  any  place 
from  the  celestial  equator,  measured  in  degrees  on  the  meridian,  is 
equal  to  the  latitude.  Fix  npon  some  star  lying  in  or  near  the  e- 
quator.  Observe  its  zenith  distance  when  it  is  in  the  meridian.  If 
it  is  directly  in  the  equator  this  will  be  the  latitude.  If  it  is  nearer 
than  ihe  equator  add  its  declination  to  its  zenith  distance  ;  if  farther, 
deduct  its  declination  from  its  zenith  distance  ;  the  sum  or  differ- 
ence will  be  the  latitude. 

Of  finding  the  longitude.  There  are  three  approved  methods  of 
discovering  the  longitude  ;  1st,  By  the  moon's  distance  from  the 
sun  or  a  fixed  star  ;  2d,  By  a  time-keeper  ;  od,  By  an  eclipse  of  the 
moon,  or  of  one  of  Jupiter's  satellites.  The  last  only  will  be  de- 
scribed in  this  place.  By  the  earth's  rotation  on  its  axis  in  24 
hours,  the  sun  appears  to  describe,  in  the  same  space  of  time,  an 
apparent  circle  of  360  degrees  in  the  heavens.  The  apparent  mo- 
lion  of  the  sun  is  therefore  15  degrees  in  an  hour.  If  two  places 
therefore  differ  15  degrees  in  longitude,  the  sun  will  pass  the  me- 
ridian of  the  eastern  place  1  hour  sooner  than  the  western.  The 
commencement  of  a  lunar  eclipse  is  seen,  at  the  same  moment  of 
lime,  from  all  places  where  the  eclipse  is  visible.  Ifthen  an  eclipse 
of  the  moon  is  seen  to  commence,  atone  place,  at  12  o'clock  at 
night,  and,  at  another  place,  at  1  o'clock  ;  the  places  differ  15  de- 
grees in  longitude,  and  the  last  lies  eastward  of  the  first.  The 
nautical  almanac,  published  in  London,  and  calculated  for  the  me- 
ridian of  Greenwich,  contains  the  exact  time  when  the  eclipses  of 
the  moon  commence  at  that  place.  When  the  time  of  the  com- 
mencement of  an  eclipse  at  any  place  has  been  observed,  a  com- 
parison of  it  with  the  time  in  the  almanac  will  determine  the  differ- 
ence of  tiniebetweenthe  place  and  Greenwich.  If  the  hour  is  later 
than  the  hour  in  the  almanac,  the  place  is  situated  to  the  east  of 
Greenwich;  if  earlier,  to  the  west.  As  1  hour  in  time  is  15  de- 
grees in  motion,  so  is  one  minute,  15  minutes,  and  one  second,  15 
seconds.  This  would  be  the  easiest  and  most  accurate  method  of 
ascertaining  tlie  longitude,  if  we  could  determine  the  precise  mo- 
ment of  tivne  when  a  lunar  eclipse  commences.  But  xXixs,  cannot, 
in  general,  be  determined  nearer  than  1  minute,  and  often  not  near- 
er than  2  or  3  minutes.  A  variance  of  i  minute  would  make  tlie 
difference  of  15  minutes  or  miles  in  longitude  ;  of  2  mhiutes,  30 
minutes  ;  and  of  3  minutes,  A5  minutes. 

This  objection  docs  not  lie  a',';ainst  the  method  of  ascertaining 
the  longitude  by  t!^e  eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satellites.  The  telescope 
enables  us  to  determine  the  precise  moment  when  they  arc  im- 


INTRODUCTION. 


'a 


mersed  in  the  shadow  of  their  primary.  The  hour  at  the  place, 
therefore,  being  ascertained,  and  compared  with  the  hour  in  the 
almanac,  we  are  enabled  to  determine,  as  before,  the  exact  differ- 
ence of  longitude. 

On  the  equator  a  degree  of  longitude  is  equal  to  60  geographi- 
cal miles  ;  and  of  course  a  minute  on  the  equator  is  equal  to  1  geo- 
graphical mile.  But  as  all  the  meridians  cut  the  equator  at  right 
angles  and  approach  nearer  and  nearer  till  they  cross  each  other 
at  the  poles,  it  is  obvious  that  the  degrees  of  longitude  decrease  as 
you  go  from  the  equator  to  the  pole.  They  do  not  however  de- 
crease uniformly,  for  a  degree  of  longitude  in  latitude  GO  degrees, 
is  30  miles,  or  half  as  long  as  a  degree  on  the  equator. 

A  TABLE 

Showing  the  number  of  geographical  miles  contained  in  a  degree 
of  longitude  in  each  parallel  of  latitude  from  tlie  equator. 


<u  -a    « 
a>   3  -Si 

tc-n  ;i 


10 

11 

12 
13 
U 


15 
16 

ir 

18 
19 


59 
.59 
>9 
59 
59 


20 
21 
22 


Q.  S 

•S  ^ 
c  ^ 
o  o 


0 
99 
96 
91 

85 


77 
67 
55 
41 
26 


59  09 

581  89 

58;  68 

}58;  46 

8  22 


57i  95 


67 
38 
06 
73 


561  39 

56l  01 
55.1  63 

6 


23  5,5 

24  54 


25 
26 
27 

28 
29 


30 
31 
32 
33 
34 


35 
36 
37 
38 
39 


40 
41 

42 
43 

44 


45 


s,s 


23 

81 

38 
93 
46 

97 

47 


96 
43 

88 
32 

74 


15 
54 

92 
28 
62 


96 

28 

58 

88 

,  16 

i.2i  42 


9j  "O 


46 

47 
48 
49 


50 
51 
52 
53 

54 


55 

56 
51 
58 
59 


60 
61 
62 
63 
64 


65 
66 
67 
68 


-a  C 
—  o 


41    68 
40   92 


14 
36 


57 
76 
94 
11 


35   27 

34  41 
33|  55 
32i  68 


79 
90 


30;  00 
291  09 
28;  17 


24 
30 


35 

40 
44 

>2\  47 


69 

70 
71 

72 
73 
74 


75 
76 

77 
78 
79 


80 
81 

82 
83 
84 


85 
86 
87 
88 
89 
90 


n 


50 


52 
53 
54 
54 
53 


53 
51 

50 
47 
45 


42 
38 
34   ' 
31 
27 


22 
18 
14 
09 
05 
00 


■{m*  INTRODUCTION. 

SIAPS,    AND    THEIK.    USE. 

A  map  is  the  representation  of  soaie  part  of  the  earth's  surface^' 
delineated  on  a  plane,  according  to  the  laws  of  projection  ;  for  as 
the  earth  is  of  a  globular  form,  no  part  of  its  spherical  surface  can 
be  accurately  exhibited  on  a  plane. 

Maps  differ  from  the  globe  in  the  same  manner  as  a  picture  does 
from  a  statue.  The  globe  truly  represents  the  earth  ;  but  a  map 
not  more  than  a  plane  surface  represents  one  that  is  spherical. 
But  although  the  earth  can  never  be  exhil)ited  exactly  by  one 
map,  yet  by  means  of  several  of  them,  each  containing  about  10  or 
20  degrees  of  latitude,  the  representation  will  not  fall  very  much 
short  of  the  globe  in  exactness  ;  because  such  maps,  if  joined  to- 
gether, vrould  form  a  convex  surface  nearly  as  round  as  the  globe 
itself. 

Cardinal  Points.  The  north  is  considered  as  the  upper  part  of' 
the  map  ;  the  south  is  at  the  bottom,  opposite  to  the  north  ;  the  east 
is  on  the  right  hand,  the  face  being  turned  to  the  north  ;  and  the 
ivest  on  the  left  hand,  opposite  to  the  east.  From  the  top  to  the 
bottom  are  drav,-n  meridians,  or  imea  of  longitude  ;  and  from  side  to 
iiklc,  fmra  lie  is  of  latitude.  The  outmost  of  the  meridians  and  par- 
allels arc  marked  with  degrees  of  latitude  or  longitude,  by  means 
of  which,  and  the  scale  of  mile-i.,  which  is  commonly  placed  in  a 
corner  of  the  map,  the  situations,  distances,  8cc.  of  places  may  be 
found  as  on  the  artificial  globe.  Thus  to  find  the  distance  of  two 
places,  suppose  Philadelphia  and  Boston,  by  the  map,  we  have  only 
io  measure  the  space  between  them  with  the  compasses,  or  a  piece 
of  thread,  and  to  apply  this  distance  to  the  scale  of  miles,  which 
shows  that  JBoston  is  286  miles  distant  in  a  straight  line  from  Phil- 
adelphia. Tf  the  places  lie  directly  north  or  south,  east  or  west, 
from  one  another,  we  have  only  to  observe  the  degrees  on  the  me- 
ridians and  parallels,  and  by  reducing  these  to  miles,  we  obtain  the 
distance  without  measuring.  Rivers  are  described  in  maps  by 
black  lines,  and  are  wider  toward  the  mouth  than  toward  tlie  head 
or  spring.  Mountains  are  sketched  on  maps  as  on  a  picture.  For- 
ests and  woods  are  represented  by  a  kind  of  shrub  ;  bogs  and  mo- 
rasses, by  shades ;  sands  and  shallows  are  described  by  small  dots  ; 
and  roads  usually  by  double  lines.  Near  harbors,  the  depth  of  the 
water  is  expressed  by  figures,  representing  fathoms. 


Air  is  a  fine,  invisible  fluid,  surroundiaig  the  eailh,  and  extend- 
ing some  miles  above  its  surface  ;  and  that  collection  of  it,  togeth- 
er with  the  bodies  it  contains,  circumscribing  the  earth,  is  called 
the  atmosphere. 

Few  natural  bodies  have  been  the  subject  of  more  experiments 
'{ban  the  air  ;  and  from  these  it  appears,  that  it  is  both  heavy  and 
elastic.  By  its  gravity  it  is  capable  of  supporting  all  lighter  bod- 
ies, as,  smoke,  vapors,  odors,  8cc.  And  by  its  elasticity,  a  small 
tolume  of  air  is  capable  of  expanding  itself  in  sucii  a  manner  as  to 


INTRODUCTION.  A2 

311  a  very  large  space,  and  also  of  being  compressed  into  a  much 
smaller  compass.  Coid  has  the  property  ot  compressing  air,  and 
heat  of  expanding  it.  But  as  soon  as  the  cause  of  expansion  or 
compression  is  removed,  it  will  return  to  its  natural  state.  Hence, 
if  an  alteration  be  made  in  any  part  of  the  atmosphere,  either  by 
heat,  or  cold,  tiie  neighboring  parts  will  be  put  in  commotion  by 
the  effort  wiiich  the  air  always  makes  to  recover  its  former  state. 

Wind  is  notiiing  more  than  a  stream  or  current  of  air,  capable  of 
very  different  degrees  of  velocity,  and  generally  blowing  from  one 
jioint  of  the  horizon  to  its  opposite.  The  horizon,  like  all  other  cir- 
cles, is  divided  into  360  degrees ;  but  as  these  divisions  arc  too  mi- 
nute for  common  use,  it  is  also  divided  into  32  equal  parts,  called 
rhu?nbs,  ov  pouita  of  the  comfiass.  Winds  are  denominated  east, 
west,  north,  south.  See.  according  to  the  points  of  the  compass  on 
which  ihey  blow  ;  and,  with  respect  to  their  direction,  are  distribut- 
ed into  three  classes,  viz.  general,  periodical,  and  variable. 

Central  winds  arc  such  as  blow  always  nearly  in  the  same  di- 
rection. They  are  found  to  prevail  in  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
oceans  between  the  latitudes  of  about  2S  degrees  north  and  south  ; 
blowing  generally  at  the  equator  from  the  east,  on  the  north  side  of 
it  between  the  north  and  east,  and  more  northerly  the  nearer  the 
northern  limit ;  and  on  the  south  side,  between  the  south  and  east, 
and  more  southerly  the  nearer  the  southern  limit,  and  are  also  call- 
ed tro/iical  or  general  trade  ivinds. 

Periodical  winds  are  such  as  blow  nearly  in  certain  directions 
during  certain  periods  of  time.  The  monsoons  or  i/iifring  trade 
ivinds,  and  the  land  and  sea  breezes,  are  of  this  kind.  The  monsoons 
blow  six  months  in  one  direction,  and  then  six  months  in  the  oppo- 
site, the  changes  happening  about  the  times  of  the  equinoxes. 
These  winds  chiefly  prevail  in  some  parts  of  the  Indian  Ocean. 
The  land  and  sea  breezes  are  winds,  which  blow  from  the  land  in 
the  night,  and  from  the  sea  in  the  day  time,  changing  their  direc- 
tion every  12  hours.  They  obtain  in  some  degree  on  the  coast  of 
every  country,  but  are  most  remarkable  between  the  tropics.  At 
the  islands  between  the  tropics,  the  sea  breeze  begins  about  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  continues  till  about  nine  in  the  even- 
ing ;  a  land  breeze  then  succeeds  and  conthiues  till  about  nine  the 
next  morning. 

The  periodical  winds  arise  from  the  difference  in  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air  over  land,  and  of  that  over  water,  occasioned  by  their 
not  acquiring  or  losing  equal  degrees  of  heat  in  a  given  time.  The 
Indian  ocean  is  bounded  on  the  east  and  north  by  part  of  Africa, 
Arabia,  Persia,  and  India,  the  shores  of  which  are  situated  within 
the  limits  of  the  trade  winds  ;  and  the  sun,  after  the  vernal  equinox, 
renders  the  air  above  these  extensive  tracts  of  land  hotter  than  that 
above  tlie  adjacent  sea,  and  thus  produces  a  wind,  which  soon  be- 
gins to  blow  toward  the  land.  This  direction  of  the  wind  continues 
from  April  to  October,  when  the  sun  having  passed  to  the  south 
side  of  the  equator,  the  air  over  the  land  toward  the  north  becomes 
colder  than  that  over  the  water,  the  direction  of  the  wind  is  invert- 
ed, and  it  blov/s  on  the  opposite  point  the  remaiiiing  six  months  of 


44  INTRODUCTION. 

the  year.  And  with  respect  to  the  land  and  sea  breezes,  the  effect 
of  the  sun  in  healing  the  air  over  the  land  in  the  day  time  being 
greater  than  the  heat  it  produces  in  the  air  over  the  adjacent  seas, 
sea  breezes  arise  ;  and  in  the  night,  the  air,  which  before  was  hot- 
test, becomes  and  continues  coldest,  and  a  land  breeze  is  tlie  con- 
sequence. 

Variable  winds  arc  those,  which  are  subject  to  no  regularity  of 
duration  or  change.  All  the  winds  in  latitudes  higher  than  40°  are 
of  this  kind. 

Variable,  as  well  as  periodical,  winds  are  principally  owing,  with- 
out doubt,  to  the  different  temperatures  of  air  incumbent  on  land 
and  water. 

Between  the  fourth  and  tenth  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  be- 
tween the  longitudes  of  Cape  Verd  and  the  easternmost  of  the 
Cape  de  Verd  Islands,  is  a  tract  of  sea,  which  seems  to  be  condemn- 
ed to  perpetual  calms,  attended  with  dreadful  thunder  and  light- 
ning, and  such  frequent  rains,  that  it  has  acquired  the  name  of  the 
Rains.  This  phenomenon  seems  to  be  caused  by  the  great  rarefac- 
tion of  the  air  on  the  neighboring  coast,  which  causes  a  perpetual 
currentof  air  to  set  in  from  the  westward,  and  this  current  meeting 
here  with  the  general  trade  wind,  the  two  currents  balance  each 
other,  and  cause  a  general  calm  ;  while  the  vapors  carried  thither 
by  each  wind,  meeting  and  condensing,  occasion  these  frequent  del- 
uges of  rain. 

Dr.  Derham,  from  repeated  observations  upon  the  motion  of  light, 
downy  feathers,  found  that  the  greatest  velocity  of  the  wind  was  not 
q^Dove  60  miles  in  an  hour.  But  Mr.  Bruce  justly  observes,  that 
such  experiments  must  be  subject  to  great  inaccuracy,  as  the 
feathers  cannot  proceed  in  a  straight  line  ;  he  therefore  estimates 
the  velocity  of  winds  by  means  of  the  shadow  of  a  cloud  over  the 
earth,  by  which  he  found,  that,  in  a  great  storm,  the  wind  moves  63 
miles  in  an  hour  ;  in  a  fresh  gale,  2 1  miles  an  hour  ;  and  in  a  small 
breeze,  10  miles  an  hour.  Mr.  Rouse  rnakes  the  velocity  of  a  hur- 
ricane 100  miles  an  hour. 

TIDES. 

By  the  term  tide  is  meant  the  regular  alternate  rising  and  falling 
of  the  water  in  the  seas  and  rivers.  The  phenomena  of  the  tides 
occasioned  a  variety  of  opinions  among  the  ancient  philosophers, 
and  the  cause  was  considered  as  one  of  the  greatest  mysteries  in 
nature.  It  remained  in  obscurity  till  the  latter  end  of  the  1  6lh  cen- 
tury, when  Sir  Isaac  Newton  clearly  pointed  it  out,  and  showed  the 
?Lgreement  of  its  effects  with  the  observed  phenomena. 

A  heavy  body,  being  thrown  up  in  the  air,  falls  again  to  the  earth 
in  a  direction  perpendicular  to  its  surface,  or  in  a  line  tending  to  its 
centre.  The  cause  of  the  body's  falling  is  a  species  of  attraciion, 
called  gravity  or  gravitatioji.  This  principle  operates  not  only  be- 
tween the  earth  and  all  bodies  near  its  surface,  but  also  between  all 
ihe  bodies  which  compose  the  solar  system,  and  probably  between 
^11  the  bodies  and  systems  of  the  universe.     And  it  is  abundantly 


INTRODUCTION.  4S 

proved  by  experiment  and  observation,  that  the  force  of  gravity  is 
inversely  as  the  squares  of  the  distances  of  the  bodies  from  one 
another,  that  is,  the  force  decreases  in  the  same  ratio  as  the  squares 
of  the  distances  increase,  and  -vice  -versa. 

The  flowing  and  ebbing  of  the  sea  are  to  be  attributed  to  the  at- 
traction of  the  sun  and  moon  ;  but  principally  to  that  of  the  moon 
on  account  of  its  less  distance  from  the  earth. 

The  attractive  force  of  the  moon  varies  at  different  distances,  be- 
ing greater  at  a  small  distance  and  smaller  at  a  great  distance.  Its 
power  is  found  to  diminish  as  the  squares  of  the  distances  increase. 
Thus,  if  at  the  distance  of  10,000  miles,  the  attractive  force  be  con- 
sidered as  4,  at  the  distance  of  20,000  it  will  be  only  I.  Hence  the 
■ivaters  on  the  side  of  the  earth  directly  under  the  moon  are  more 
attracted  by  the  moon  than  the  central  parts  of  the  earth,  because 
they  are  nearer  to  the  moon,  and  the  central  parts  of  the  earth  are 
more  attracted  than  the  waters  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  earth. 
Consequently  the  Avaters  directly  under  the  moon  will  be  as  it  were 
attracted  from  the  centre  of  the  earth  and  be  made  to  rise  towards 
the  moon ;  and  the  centre  of  the  earth  will  be  as  it  were  attracted 
from  the  waters  on  the  side  of  the  earth  opposite  to  the  moon,  so 
that  those  waters  will  be  less  near  the  earth's  centre  than  if  the 
moon  did  not  operate,  i.  e.  they  will  rise.  On  the  meridian  direct-- 
ly  under  the  moon,  therefore,  there  will  be  a  high  tide  and  a  simi- 
lar one  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  earth,  at  the  distance  of  180°. 
On  each  side,  however,  at  90°  distance  from  that  meridian,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  moon's  very  oblique  attraction,  the  waters  will  be 
depressed. 

The  tides  are  higher  than  ordinary  twice  a  month,  viz.  about  th& 
times  of  the  new  and  full  moon  ;  and  these  are  called  sfiring  tides. 
Because  at  these  times  the  attraction  of  the  sun  conspires  with  that 
of  the  moon,  or  their  agency  is  in  the  same  right  line  ;  and  conse^ 
quentiy  the  tides  must  be  more  elevated.  When  the  two  lumina- 
ries are  in  conjunction,  or  en  the  same  side  of  the  earth,  they  both 
conspire  to  raise  the  water  on  the  nearest  and  remotest  part  ;  and 
when  they  are  in  opposition,  that  is,  when  the  earth  is  betweer-i 
them,  the  part  nearest  to  the  one  is  remotest  from  the  other,  and 
-Dice  versa,  consequently  the  effects  of  their  agency  are  united. 

The  tides  are  less  than  ordinary  twice  a  month  ;  that  is,  abouc 
the  times  of  the  first  and  last  quarters  of  the  moon  ;  and  these  arc 
called  neafi  tides.  For  in  the  quarters  of  the  moon,  the  sun  raises 
the  water  where  the  moon  depresses  it;  and  depresses  it  where 
the  moon  raises  it ;  the  tides  arc  made  therefore  by  the  difference- 
«f  their  actions. 

LENGTH    OF    MILES    IN    DIFFERENT    COUNTRIES. 

There  is  scarcely  a  greater  variety  in  any  thing  than  in  this  sen 
of  measure;  not  only  those  of  separate  countries  differ,  as  the 
French  from  the  English,  but  those  of  the  same  country  vary  in  thf 
different  provinces,  and  all  commonly  from  the  standard.  Tims 
the  common  English  mile  differs  from  the  statute  mile,  and  thv 
French  have  three  sorts  of  leaeues. 


.46 


iNTRODUCTI(:)N. 


We  shall  here  give  the  miles  of  several  countries,  compared, 
■with  the  English,  by  Dr.  Hally. 

The  English  statute  niiie  consists  of  5280  feet,  1760  yards,  or  & 
furlongs. 

Eleven  Irish  miles  arc  equal  to  fourteen  English. 

The  Russian  verst  or  werst  is  iiitlc  more  than  |  English. 

The  Turkish,  Italian,  and  old  Roman  less,  niiie  is  nearly  I  Ejv 
glish. 

The  Arabian,  ancient  and  modern,  is  about  1^  English. 

The  Scotch  mile  is  about  )|  English. 

The  Indian  is  almost  3  English. 

The  Dutch,  Spanish,  and  Polish,  ib  about  3|  English. 

The  German  is  more  than  4  English. 

The  Swedish,  Danish,  and  Hungarian  is  from  .5  to  6  English. 

The  French  conunon  marine  league  is  nearly  3,  and 

The  English  marine  league  is  3  nautical  miles.  , 


SCRIPTURE    MEASURES    OF    LENGTH. 


Digit 

7- 
I 


12 

24 

96 

144 

192 

(1920 


Palm 


24 


26 


48 


480 


Span 


12 


16 


160 


Cubit 


SO 


Fathom 

Ezekiel's  Rod 


1, 


20 


1-^    Arabian  Pole 


Eng.  Yds.  Ft.  Inches. 
0     0     0912 


0  0     3-648 

0  0  10'944f 

0  1     9-S88 

2  1     3-552 

3  1   11-328 

4  2     7-104 


13.1      10 


Schasnuij,  or 
MeasuringLine4S    1  11  04 


Cubit 


400 


2000 


4000 


12000 


96000 


TIIE    LONGER    SCllIPTURE    MEASURES. 

Eng.  Miles.  Yds.  Feet. 

0  0  1-824 

Stadium                                                      G  243  0-6 

bath  Day's  Journey                      0  1216  0* 

Eastern  Mile                             1  672  0- 

Parasang                           4:  256  0- 

48     24      8    I A  Day's  Journey    33  288  '0' 


10 


SO 


240 


llfJTRODUCTION.  4f 

The  East  used  another  span  equal  tn  one  third  of  a  cubit. 

The  above  are  sacred  measures)  in  the  lengths  of  which  there 
iHust  necessarily  be  some  degree  of  uncertainty.  Arbuthnot  makes 
the  sacred  cubit  equal  to  1-7325  feet.  He  also  observes,  that  the 
'Jews  sometimes  made  use  of  a  profane  cubit,  the  length  of  which 
he  determined  to  be  1-485  feet- 

niFFERENT    TIMES    ^YHEN     THE     DAY     BEGINS  ;      AND     4     SHOUT'' 
ACCOUNT    OF    THE    OLD    AND    NEW    STYLE. 

The  ancient  Egyptians  and  Romans  supposed  the  day  to  begin 
at  midnight ;  and  it  is  also  now  considered  by  the  United  States  of 
America,  Great-Britain,  France,  and  most  European  countries,  as 
beginning  at  that  time.  In  astronomy,  however,  it  is  supposed  tO' 
begin  at  noon,  or  the  time  when  the  sun  is  on  the  meridian.  The 
beginning  has  been  fixed  at  sunrise  by  some  nations,  as  the  ancient 
Babylonians,  Persians,  &c.  and  at  sunset  by  others,  as  t!ie  ancient 
Jews,  Grecians,  Sec. 

In  the  Julian  calendar  or  old  style,  a  method  of  reckoning  tirhe, 
adopted  by  Julius  Cxsar,  about  45  years  before  the  birth  of  Christ, 
which  was  much  preferable  to  any  that  preceded  it,  a  year  was  sup- 
posed to  consist  of  365  days  and  6  hours  ;  each  of  3  years  in  suc-^ 
cession  was  consid-^red  as  a  common  year  of  365  days,  and  on  ac- 
count of  the  annual  excess  of  6  hours,  another  was  added  to  cvery 
fourth,  which  consequently  consisted  of  366  days,  and  was  called 
leaji  yeai\  As  the  solar  year,  or  the  time  of  the  apparent  annual 
revolution  of  the  sun,  is  not  exactly  365  days  and  G  hours,  but  near- 
ly 365  days,  5  hours,  48  minutes  and  48  seconds,  it  follows,  that  the 
Julian  year  exceeded  the  solar  by  about  11  minutes  and  12  sec- 
onds. This  annual  excess  amounts  to  1  day  in  129  years.  Not- 
withstanding this  inaccuracy,  the  Julian  style  was  generally  used 
in  Europe  till  the  year  1582,  when  it  was  reformed  by  Pope  Greg- 
ory the  thirteenth,  who  introduced  what  is  called  the  Gregorian  of 
new  style. 

It  having  been  found  that  the  vernal  equinox,  which  had  been 
fixed  to  the  21st  of  March  by  tiie  council  of  Nice,  held  in  the  yeaP 
325,  happened  the  1 1th  of  March  in  1582,  the  difference  of  10  davs 
between  the  civil  and  real  time  was  taken  from  the  October  of 
that  year,  and  the  2 1st  of  the  next  March  reduced  to  the  true  time 
of  the  equinox.  But  the  Protestant  states  refused,  at  that  time,  to 
accede  to  the  new  style,  which  the  Pope  had  enjoined  on  all  the 
ecciesiastics  within  his  jurisdiction,  and  exhorted  the  Christian 
princes  to  adopt  in  their  respective  dominions  ;  and  it  did  not  com- 
mence in  the  British  em.pire,  of  which  the  present  United  States 
of  America  then  made  a  part,  till  the  year  1752,  when  tlie  error 
having  increased  to  1 1  days,  they  were,  by  an  act  of  parliament, 
struck  oiU  of  the  calendar  Irom  the  month  of  September,  the  third 
day,  according  to  the  old  style,  bciiig  called  the  fourteenth. 

The  reformation  of  the  calendar  consisted  not  only  in  expunping 
the  excess  of  the  civil  al)ove  the  real  time,  but  also  in  the  introduc- 
tion of  a  principle  which  should  prevent  a  like  accumulation  of  er- 


48  INTRODUCTION. 

ror  in  future.  According  to  the  old  style  the  last  year  of  every 
century  is  a  leap  year,  but  in  the  new  only  every  fourth  of  these  leap 
years  is  retained,  the  rest  being  considered  as  common  years.  This 
diminution  of  the  number  of  leap  years  nearly  balances  the  error, 
"which,  at  the  rate  of  1 1  minutes  and  12  seconds  a  year,  amounts  to 

1  day  in  129  years,  and  3  days  in  about  4  centuries. 

It  is,  however,  to  be  observed,  that  at  the  above  annual  rate  of  1 1 
minutes  and  12  seconds,  the  accumulation  in  4  centuries  is  3  days, 

2  hours,  and  40  minutes,  so  that  the  deduction  of  3  days  in  4  cen- 
turies, falls  short  of  the  difference  between  the  civil  and  real  time 
by  2  hours  and  40  minutes,  which  error  will  become  equal  to  1  day 
m  36  centuries. 


UNIVERSAL  GEOGRAPHY. 


THE  EARTH. 

i;XTENT,   RELIGIONS,    DIVISIONS,    ARRANGEMENT. 

p  fTlHE  globe,  which  we  inhabit,  contains  on  its  sur 

*  JL   face  about  197  million  square  miles. 

Religions.  The  religion  of  our  first  parents  before  the  Fall, 
was  JVatural  Religion. 

After  the  Fall,  the  religion  of  Adam,  and,  for  a  considerable 
time,  that  of  his  posterity,  was  PatriaTchal. 

The  first  corruption  of  the  patriarchal  religion  was  Atheism^  or 
a  denial  of  the  existence  of  God.  The  second  was  Gentilism,  or 
the  worship  of  false  gods.  Gentilism  spread  rapidly  and  exten- 
sively ;  and,  for  more  than  2500  years,  has  been  the  religion  of  the 
great  body  of  mankind. 

The  covenant  with  Abraham  did  not  give  rise  to  a  new  religion. 
It  was  merely  a  modification  of  the  patriarchal. 

The  Jewish  Religion  was  instituted  at  Mount  Sinai,  1491 
years  before  Christ.  The  children  of  Israel  were  taken  by  God  to 
be  his  peculiar  people,  on  the  single  condition,  that  ihcy  would, 
acknowledge  and  worship  him  as  their  God.  This  religion  ceased 
in  effect  at  the  death  of  the  Redeemer  ;  for  then  the  Spirit  from  on 
high  was  withdrawn,  and  God  refused  to  accept  the  offering  of  the 
worshipper.  Considerable  numbers,  however,  have  in  every  sub- 
sequent age  observed  the  rites  of  the  synagogue. 

Christianity  was  planted  by  the  Apostles  of  Christ  immediate- 
ly after  his  death.  By  the  end  of  the  4th  century  it  overspread  the 
whole  Roman  Empire,  and  numerous  and  powerful  churches  were 
found  in  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa.  These  all,  at  length,  became 
subordinate  to  two,  the  church  of  Rome,  and  the  church  of  Con- 
stantinople. The  churches  of  Turkey,  Asia  Minor,  Syria,  Ar- 
menia, and  Africa  were  under  the  control  of  the  latter,  while  all 
the  west  and  north  of  Europe  was  subject  to  the  former. 

The  temfioral  power  of  Rome  was  much  more  weakened  by  the 
early  attacks  of  barbarians,  than  that  of  Constantinople.  This 
gave  the  spiritual  power  an  undue  influence  in  the  government ; 
and,  when  Charlemagne  made  FrriDce  the  seat  of  the  western  em- 
pire, the  Pope  was  without  a  rival  in  Italy. 
7 


Xo  THE  EARTH. 

The  patriarch  of  Constantinople,  on  the  contrary,  had  always  a 
master  in  the  empire.     His  power  was  chiefly  spiritual. 

The  first  serious  check  to  the  usurpation  ot  Rome  was  given  in 
the  12th  and  13th  centuries,  by  the  Waldenscs  and  Albigenses  in 
the  south  of  France.  In  the  1 6th  century,  it  found  in  Luther,  Me- 
lancthon,  Zuinglius,  and  Calvin,  antagonists  too  formidable  to  be 
met ;  too  wily  to  be  circumvented.  Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark, 
Prussia,  and  the  north  of  Germany,  Scotland,  England,  and  Swit- 
zerland, were  finally  emancipated  froiTi  popish  thraldom  ;  and  the 
other  nations  of  Europe  loosened  their  fetters. 

The  Reformers  took  the  name  of  Protestatits,  from  their  pro- 
testing, in  1529,  against  a  decree  of  the  emperor  Charles  V.  and 
the  diet  of  Spires.  The  great  branches  of  the  protestani  religion 
were  the  Lutherans,  the  Episcopalians,  and  the  Presbyterians  ;  for 
under  this  latter  name  may  be  ranked  the  Congregational  churches 
of  Geneva,  Switzerland,  Holland,  and  United  America,  with  as 
much  propriety  as  the  church  of  Scotland. 

The  Greek  Church,  the  other  great  branch  of  the  christian  com- 
munity, suffered  extremely  by  the  capture  of  Constantinople.  The 
power  of  the  patriarch  was  curbed,  and  several  of  his  richest  pro- 
vinces were  dismembered.  The  churches  of  Africa,  except  the 
Abyssinian,  were  in  a  great  measure  rooted  out ;  while  those  of 
Armenia,  Syria,  and  Asia  Minor,  were  brought  under  the  most 
distressing- bondage.  These  losses,  however,  were  supplied,  in  a 
degree,  by  the  accession  of  European  Russia,  the  most  important 
part  of  the  patriarchal  empire. 

Beside  the  Romish,  the  Greek,  and  the  Protestant  religions, 
there  is  still  another  branch  of  the  christian  church,  till  lately  un- 
known in  Europe.  This  includes  the  Christians  of  Cochin,  in  Hin- 
dostan.  They  were  established  in  that  country  at  no  distant  pe- 
riod after  the  ascension  of  the  Redeemer  ;  and,  for  many  centuries, 
knew  no  worshippers  of  the  true  God,  but  themselves,  and  the 
Christians  of  Antioch. 

The  Mahometan  Religion  is  usually  considered  as  having  com- 
menced at  Mecca,  in  618,  the  40th  year  of  the  Impostor's  life.  Its 
fundamental  articles  are,  that  there  is  one  God,  and  that  Alahoinet 
is  his  Prophet.  Mahometanism  soon  became  divided  into  two 
great  sects,  the  Schiites,  the  followers  of  Ali;  and  the  Su?inites,  the 
followers  of  Omar.  The  former  established  itself  in  Persia.  The 
latter  overspread  Arabia,  Turkey,  and  its  dependences. 

Thus  the  great  religions  of  the  world  are  the  Pagan,  Jewish, 
Christian,  and  Mahometan.  •< 

The  Pagan  overspreads  northern,  central,  and  eastern  Asia  ;  the 
islands  of  the  Indian  and  Pacific  oceans  ;  ceniral  and  southern  Africa 
the  northern  parts  of  North-America  ;  and  the  central  and  southern 
parts  of  South-America.  Of  the  765  millions,  who  inhabit  the  globe, 
wc  believe  that  about  475  millions  are  Pagans,  viz.  about  450  in 
Asia,  20  in  Africa,  and  5  in  America. 

The  Jews  are  dispersed  over  the  globe.  A  small  body  politic 
has  lately  been  discovered  in  Cochin,  who  are  supposed  to  have 
i>€ltlcd  there  scon  after  the  time  of  the  transportation  to  Babylon, 


THE  EARTH.  si 

The  Vv'hole  number  of  Jews  on  the  globe  has  comnionly  been  esti- 
mated at  3  millions. 

Christianity  is  the  religion  of  all  Europe,  except  about  one  third 
of  the  population  of  Turkey  ;  of  all  America,  that  is  not  Pagan  ;  of 
Abyssinia,  and  various  European  settlements  in  Africa  ;  and  of 
Georgia,  Cochin,  and  a  few  Portuguese  and  English  settlements  in 
Hindostan  and  the  Asiatic  isles.  The  whole  number  of  Christians 
on  the  globe  is,  probably,  about  214  millions,  viz.  177  in  Europe,  30 
in  America,  4  in  Africa,  and  3  in  Asia. 

The  remaining  73  millions  are  Mahometans,  overspreading 
northern  Africa,  Arabia,  Turkey  in  Asia,  Persia,  and  the  south- 
eastern part  of  Russia  in  Asia,  and  extensively  diffused  over  Hin- 
dostan and  Turkey  in  Europe.  Their  high  priest  is  the  Mufti, 
who  resides  at  Constantinople.  It  will  readily  be  observed  that 
these  numbers  are  not  supposed  to  be  accurate.  They  are,  however, 
according  to  the  best  information  which  we  can  obtain,  probably  not 
far  from  the  truth. 

Divisions.  The  two  great  natural  divisions  of  the  earth  are 
land  and  loater.  About  42  million  square  m.iles  make  up  the  va- 
rious divisions  of  land,  and  about  155  millions  are  covered  with  vi^a- 
ter.     The  following  are  the  divisions  of  land. 

Continents.  A  very  large  extent  of  country  is  called  a  Conti- 
nent. Of  these  there  are  two,  the  eastern  and  nvestern.  The  east- 
ern comprehends  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa;  the  western.  North  and 
South-America.  The  eastern  has  been  generally  estimated  to  con- 
tain 22,600,000  square  miles,  and  the  western  14,000,000.  The 
present  population  of  both,  including  the  islands,  is,  according  to 
the  best  data,  which  we  possess,  about  765,000,000,  or  18y^^  to  each 
square  mile  of  land  on  the  globe. 

Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  and  America,  are  sometimes  also  called 
the  four  quarters  of  the  tvorld. 

Kew- Holland,  the  largest  island  on  the  globe,  has  sometimes 
been  considered  as  a  third  continent. 

Peninsulas.  A  Peninsula  is  a  tract  of  land,  surrounded  by  wa- 
ter, except  at  one  narrow  7ieck,  by  which  it  is  comiected  with  the 
main. 

Islands.  An  Island  is  a  tract  of  land,  smaller  than  a  continent, 
entirely  surrounded  by  water.  The  principal  islands  on  the  globe, 
are  New-Holland,  between  the  Pacific  and  Indian  oceans,  usually 
estimated  to  contain  4,000,000  square  miles  ;  Borneo,  Madagas- 
car, Sunjatra,  all  in  the  Indian  ocean  ;  Great-Britain,  Iceland, 
and  Terra  del  Fuego,  in  the  Atlantic  j  Nova  Zembla  and  Spitz- 
bergen  in  the  Frozen  ;  and  Saghalien,  Jesso,  Niphon,  New-Guinea, 
and  New-Zealand,  in  the  Pacific, 

Isthmuses.  An  Isthmus  is  a  narrow  neck  of  land,  joining  a  pen- 
insula to  the  main.  The  two  most  noted  isthmuses  are  that  of  Da- 
rien,  which  unites  North  and  South-America,  34  miles  wide ;  and 
that  of  Suez,  which  connects  Africa  with  Asia,  60  miles  wide. 

Promontories.  A  Promontory  is  a  tract  of  land,  Jirojccting  far 
vito  the  sea  without  an  ist/nnus. 

Capes.     A  Cape  is  the  termination  of  a  promontGry,  or  of  anv 


62  ^  THE  EARTH. 

other  tract  of  land,  running  into  the  sea.     The  most  noted  capes  arc 
Cape  Horn,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Cape  Sable,  and  Cape  Florida. 

Mountains.  A  Mountain  is  a  tract  of  land,  considerably  elevflt' 
ed  above  the  adjacent  country.  Mountains  are  usually  found  con- 
nected together  in  long  chains  or  ranges  ;  sometimes,  however, 
they  are  single,  isolated  eminences.  The  longest  range  of  moun- 
tains in  the  world  is  the  A7ncrican  Range,  which  reaches  from  the 
Straits  of  Magellan  to  the  Frozen  ocean,  almost  10,000  miles,  and 
comprises  the  Andes  in  South-America,  the  Cordilleras,  of  Mexi- 
co, and  the  Rocky  mountains  of  North-America.  The  most  noted 
single  mouiiiauis  are  Mont  Blanc,  Ophir,  Peak  of  TenerifTe,  Etna, 
Hecla,  and  Vesuvius. 

Ihe  followuig  are  the  divisions  of  water. 

Oceans.  The  largest  divisions  of  water  are  not,  like  those  of 
land,  separated  from  each  other.  On  this  account,  considered  as  a 
■whole,  they  frequently  receive  the  name  of  the.  Ocean  or  the  Sea. 
The  word  Ocean,  however,  in  a  subordinate  and  more  common 
sense,  means  a  large  collection  of  water,  sefiarated  partly  by  land, 
and  partly  by  a  supposed  or  imaginai'y  boundary,  from  some  other 
collection.     Of  these  there  are  four. 

1.  The  Pacific,  which  has  America  on  the  east,  and  Asia,  the 
Indian  ocean,  and  New-Holland  on  t|ie  west;  on  the  north  it  is  con- 
nected with  the  Frozen  ocean  by  Behring's  straits.  The  distance 
of  America  and  Asia,  at  Behring's  straits,  is  48  miles.*  This 
ocean  soon  widens  rapidly.  In  lat.  59°  it  is  about  1400  miles  ;  in 
50°,  4300  ;  in  5°  north,  its  widest  point,  10,900  ;  at  its  southern 
extremity,  63,000.  The  large  rivers  which  empty  into  it,  are  the 
Kianku,  Hoang-ho,  Amoor,  Columbia,  and  Colorado. 

2.  The  Atlantic,  which  is  bounded  by  America  on  the  west, 
and  by  Europe  and  Africa  on  the  east.  Its  width  between  Nor- 
"way  and  Greenland  is  not  more  than  700  miles  ;  between  Labra- 
dor and  Great-Britain,  1700;  between  the  United  States  and  France 
it  is  about  3000  ;  in  lat.  23°  north,  its  widest  point,  more  than 
4500  ;  across  obliquely  from  Brazil  to  Africa,  about  1500  ;  and  in 
lat.  34°  south,  upwards  of  3500.  The  large  rivers,  which  empty 
into  the  Atlantic,  are  the  La  Plata,  Amazon,  Oronoko,  Bravo,  Mis- 
sisippi,  St.  Lawrence,  in  America,  and  the  Rhine  in  Europe. 

3.  The  Indian  ocean,  which  lies  between  Africa  on  the  west, 
Asia  on  the  north,  and  New -Holland  on  the  east.  Its  width,  in  lat. 
7"  nortli,  is  about  2800  miles  ;  on  the  equator,  6000  ;  and  in  lat. 
35°  south,  4800  The  promontory  of  Hindostan  divides  the  north- 
ern part  of  this  ocean  into  the  Arabian  sea,  on  the  west,  and  the  bay 
of  Bi.  ngal  on  the  east ;  an  imaginary  line,  passing  from  the  cape  of 
Good  Hope  to  New-Holland,  is  supposed  to  separate  it  from  the 
Southern.  The  great  rivers  which  flow  into  it  are  the  Euphrates, 
Indus,  Ganges,  Burrampooter,  Irawaddy  and  Maykaung,  or  Japan- 
ese river. 

4.  Tlie  JVurthern  ocean,  which  lies  north  of  America,  Asia,  and 
Europe.  It  is  commonly  said  to  be  3000  miles  over.     It  communi- 

•  Sauer's  Expedition,  page  257. 


TI?E  EARTH.  53 

G^tes-with  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic  The  shores  of  this  ocean  have 
been  but  partially  explored. 

To  this  ocean  the  iierrinj;  resort  in  thp  autumn  to  breed  their 
young.  About  the  middle  ot  winter  they  proceed  towards  the  south 
in  three  great  divisions  The  smallest  squadron  passes  through 
Behring's  straits,  and  visits  the  coasts  of  Kamschatka  and  Alaska. 
The  mam  body,  passing  between  Norway  and  Greenland,  reaches 
Iceland,  about  the  beginning  of  March,  in  a  close  phalanx  of  sur- 
prising depth,  and  such  extent,  that  the  surface  is  supposed  to  equal 
the  dimensions  of  Great-Britain  and  Ireland.  Here  they  divide. 
The  western  division,  passing  between  Greenland  and  Iceland, 
covers  the  shores  of  America,  as  far  as  the  Chesapeak.  The  van- 
guard of  the  eastern  reaches  the  Shetland  isles  in  May,  and  tiie 
main  body  arrives  in  June,  towards  the  end  of  which  month,  and 
through  that  of  July,  they  are  in  their  greatest  perlection.  From 
Shetland,  one  division  passes  through  the  German  sea,  and  arrives 
at  Yarmouth  in  October.  The  other  passes  to  the  west  along  both 
shores  of  Ireland.  In  the  month  of  October,  they  are  supposed  to 
return  to  the  Arctic  ocean.* 

Arrangement,  It  will  be  the  object  of  the  following  work  to 
give  an  accurate  and  comprehensive  account  of  the  present  state  of 
the  various  countries  on  the  globe  ;  together  with  such  a  summarv- 
of  their  history,  as  will  enable  our  readers  to  ^timate  their  relative 
importance  in  the  various  periods  of  time. 

Of  the  four  quarters  of  the  world,  America,  the  most  interesting 
to  our  countrymen,  will  be  first  described.  Europe,  Asia,  and  Af- 
rica, will  follow  in  their  order. 

The  countries,  which  compose  the  respective  quarters  of  the 
globe,  will  be  arranged  with  a  general  reference  to  their  geograph- 
ical situation.  Such  an  arrangement  will  best  serve  to  fix  on  the 
mind  a  clear  impression  of  their  relative  position  ;  and  it  need  not, 
like  the  arrangement  of  Pinkerton,  be  changed  with  every  new  edi- 
tion of  a  geography. 

Each  country  will  be  described  under  the  two  following  general 
heads.  Historical  Geography,  and  Natural  Geography, 
The  historical  geograf-ihy  oi  dt  country  is  supposed  to  include  its 
Extent,  Boundaries,  Names,  Original  Population,  Historical  Epochs, 
Antiquities,  Religion,  Government,  Population,  Colonies,  Army, 
Navy,  Revenue,  Political  Importance  and  Relations,  Manners  and 
Customs,  Language,  Literature,  Arts  Universities,  Cities  and 
Towns,  Roads,  Inland  Navigation,  Manufactures,  and  Commerce. 
In  short  it  comprehends  all  that  information  respecting  the  present 
state  of  each  country,  which  would  be  useful  to  the  historian,  who, 
at  some  future  period,  might  be  employed  in  writing  its  history. 

J^atural  geograjihy  comprises  Climate  and  Seasons,  Face  of 
the  Country,  Soil  and  Agriculture,  Islands,  Seas,  Bays,  Sounds, 
Swamps,  Lakes,  Rivers,  Mountains,  Forests,  Botany,  Zcologj-, 
Mineralogy,  Mineral  Waters,  and  Natural  Curiosities. 

^  Pinkerton. 


AMERICA. 


AMERICA. 

Uxtent.  WE"  cannot  speak  with  certainty  as  te  the  extent  of 
America,  because  its  northern  limit  has  never  been  ascertained. 
Its  whole  length  is  about  9600  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth,  from 
the  extremity  of  the  promontory  of  Alaska,  to  the  easternmost 
point  of  Labrador,  is  4570  miles  ;  while  its  least  breadth  across 
the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  is  only  34  miles.  The  average  breadth, 
is  about  1500  miles.  The  greatest  breadth  of  South-America,  is 
3230  miles.  America  extends  from  cape  Horn,  in  lat.  56  S.  to  at 
least  lat.  80°  N  ;  and  from  long  ,35^  to  ]  68°  W.  from  Greenwich, 
It  contains,  exclusive  of  its  islands,  upwards  of  14,000,000  square 
jniles. 

Boundaries.  America  has  the  Atlantic  on  the  east,  the  Pacific 
on  the  west,  and  the  Northern  or  Frozen  ocean  on  the  north.  On 
the  south,  the  continent  is  separated  from  the  island  of  Teri'a  del 
Fuego,  by  the  straits  of  Magellan. 

Divisions.  We  shall  consider  this  great  continent  under  the 
three  grand  divisions  pointed  out  by  nature,  North-America,  the 
Wkst-Indies,  and  South-Ambhica. 

Original  Fo/mladon.  We  shall  state,  in  a  few  words,  the  result 
of  our  own  enquires  on  this  subject. 

I.  The  Greenlanders  and  Esquimaux  v/crc  emigrants  from  the  N. 
W.  shores  of  Europe.  A  colony  of  Norwegians  was  planted  in 
Iceland  in  874.  (Greenland  was  settled  by  Eric  Rufus,  a  young 
Norwegian,  in  9S2;  and  before  the  eleventh  century,  churches  were 
founded  and  a  bishopric  erected  at  Garde,  the  capital  of  the  settle- 
ment. Soon  after  this.  Bairn,  an  Icelandic  navigator,  by  accident, 
discovered  land  to  the  west  of  Greenland.  This  land  received  the 
name  of  Vineland.  It  was  settled  by  acolony  of  Norwegians  in  1002, 
and,  from  the  description  givenof  its  situation  and  productions,  must 
have  ])een  either  Labrador,  or  Newfoundland.*  Vineland  was 
west  of  Greenland,  and  not  very  far  to  the  south  of  it.  It  also  pro- 
duced vines  spontaneously.  Its  situation  corresponds  with  both 
Labrador  and  Newfoundland. 

II.  The  other  tribes  of  North-America,  and  all  the  nations  of 
South-America,  probably  came  from  the  N.  E.  coast  of  Asia,  across 
Behring's  straits.  The  distance  from  East  cape  to  cape  Prince  of 
Wales,  is  4  8  miles.  Several  islands  lie  in  the  straits.  In  the 
winter  tlic  passage  is  frozen  ;  in  the  sunmier  the  natives  continual- 
Iv  cross,  in  canoes,  from   one   coast  to  the  other. 

The  Araucanians,  the  Peruvians,  the  Mexicans,  the  Moheakan- 
ncews,  Iroquois,  and  the  Cliipewyans,  ail  had  traditions  of  their 
ancestors  hav  ing  come  from  the  west,  or  north-west.  This  harmo- 
ny of  their  traditions  could  hardly  have  existed,  if  they  had  not  been 
true. 

The  v?.rIouy  nations  of  America  undoubtedly  emigrated  at  dif- 

*  Mallet's  Northern  Antiijuitrcd. 


AIvfERICA.  55 

fetent  periods,  and  always  by  tribes  more  or  less  numerous,   and 
possessed  of  very  different  degrees  of  civilization. 

J^ative  Tribes.  The  principal  nations  and  tribes,  which  occupied 
the  immense  territories  of  the  western  continent,  beginning  at  the 
south,  were  the  Araucanians,  the  Peruvians,  the  Caraibes,  the  Mex- 
icans, the  Arrowauks,  the  Sioux,  the  Moheakaneews,  the  Iroquois, 
the  Knisteneaux,  the  Chipewyans,  and  the  Esquimaux. 

The  Indians  of  Chili  and  Pataijonia  all  spoke  one  language.  We 
Gall  them  Araucanians,  after  the  name  of  their  most  powerful 
tribe.  They  were  more  civilized  than  most  of  the  Tartars.  They 
are  at  this  day,  a  powerful,  compact,  independent  republic* 

The  Peruvians  were  farther  advanced  in  civilization,  when  A- 
merica  was  discovered,  than  the  European  Russians  in  the  time  of 
Peter  the  Great. 

.     The  Arrowauks  and  the  Caraibes  inhabited  the  West-Indian 
Islands,  and  the  shores  of  Guiana  and  Caraccas. 

The  Mexicans  constituted  a  powerful  empire.  They  were  still 
farther  advanced  in  civilization  than  the  Peruvians. 

The  country  lying  west  of  the  Missisippi  and  north  of  Mexico, 
as  far  as  the  parallel  of  52°  N.  was  inhabited  by  many  independent 
tribes,  whom,  for  want  of  a  better  name,  we  call  the  Sioux,  after 
the  name  of  the  tribe  now  the  most  numerous. 

The  MoHEAKANEEwsf  inhabited  the  greater  part  of  the  north- 
ern states,  and  probably  New-Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia.  Of 
many  of  their  tribes  we  have  authentic  accounts. 

The  Iroquois,  or,  as  they  are  commonly  called,  the  Six  Na- 
tions, inhabited  the  northern  and  western  parts  of  the  state  of  New- 
York,  and  a  part  of  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio. 

The  Knisteneaux  still  occupy  a  vast  extent  of  country,  around 
the  southern  shore  of  Hudson  bay.  Their  language  is  the  same 
with  that  of  the  people,  who  inhabit  the  coast  of  British  America, 
©n  the  Atlantic,  with  the  exception  of  the  Esquimaux  ;  and  con- 
tinues along  the  coast  of  Labrador  and  gulf  and  banks  of  St.  Law- 
rence, to  Montreal. 

The  Chipewyans  are  numerous.  They  consider  the  country 
between  lat.  60°  and  65°  N.  and  between  Ion.  100°  and  1 10°  W.  as 
their  home.  Their  language  is  copious,  and  difBcult  to  be  attain- 
ed ;  and  is  spoken  in  many  dialects  by  the  tribes,  who  wander  over 
an  immense  tract  of  country.  Between  them  and  the  Frozen  ocean 
lie  the  Esquimaux,  and  on  the  North-West  Coast,  is  a  nation  dif- 
ferent from  both. 

The  Esquimaux  possess  the  sea  coast  from  the  Atlantic  through 
Hudson's  straits  and  bay,  as  far  as  M'Kenzie's  liver,  and  probably 
farther.  They  never  quit  the  coast ;  and  agree  in  appearance, 
manners,  language,  and  habits,  with  the  inhabitants  of  Greenland. 
Their  progress  has  been  only  westward. | 

There  are  many  small  tribes,  unconnected  with  these,  which 
e'annot  be  enumerated. 
Diacoveries.  The  following  are  the  principal  epochs  of  discovery' 

*MoUaa.      t  Dr.  Dwight's  Manuscript  observations.      \  M'Kenzie,  II.  304. 


56  AMERICA. 

861 .  Iceland,  which  is  really  an  American  island,  was 'discovered 

by  Nardoddr  a  Norwegian. 

982.  Greenland  was  settled  by  Eric  Rufus,  a  young  Norwegian  ; 
and,  before  the  eleventh  century,  churches  were  built  and  a  bish- 
opric erected  at  Garde,  the  capital. 

1002.  Vineland,  which  is  probably  Labrador,  possibly  New- 
foundland, was  discovered  by  Bairn,  an  Icelander.  A  small  colo- 
ny of  Norwegians  was  planted  there.  The  fate  of  this  colony  has 
never  been  fully  ascertained. 

1492.  Christopher  Colon,  or,  as  he  is  commonly  called,  Christo- 
pher Columbus,  a  native  of  Genoa,  set  sail  from  Palos  in  Spain, 
under  the  auspices  of  Ferdhiand  and  Isabella,  the  sovereigns  of 
Castile  and  Arragou.  His  armament  consisted  of  three  vessels  ; 
the  largest,  the  Santa  Maria,  a  ship  of  no  considerable  burden,  was 
commanded  by  Columbus  as  admiral.  Martin  Pinzon  was  captain 
of  the  second,  called  the  Pinta.  The  third,  the  J\''igna,  was  under 
the  command  of  Vincent  Yanez  Pinzon.  The  squadron  was  victu- 
alled fur  12  months,  and  had  on  board  90  men,  mostly  sailors,  to- 
gether with  a  few  adventurers.  The  expence  of  fitting  out  the 
expedition  was  4000  pounds  sterling  ;  and  to  raise  this  sum  the 
queen  generously  offered  to  pledge  her  own  jewels. 

On  the  first  of  October,  he  was,  by  his  own  reckoning,  770 
leagues  west  of  the  Canaries.  His  men  began  to  mutiny,  and  he 
was  forced  to  promise  to  return,  if  land  did  not  appear  in  three 
days.  Fortunate  presages  soon  arose,  such  as  land-birds,  a  cane 
newly  cut,  a  carved  piece  of  wood,  and  the  branch  of  a  tree,  with 
fresh  red  berries.  On  the  1 1th  of  October,  a  little  before  midnight, 
Columbus,  from  the  forecastle  of  the  Santa  Maria,  discovered  a 
light  at  a  distance  ;  and  shortly  after  the  cry  of  land  I  land  !  re- 
sounded from  the  Pinta,  the  headmost  ship.  Rodrigo  de  Triana 
was  the  name  of  tiie  mariner,  who  was  so  fortunate  as  to  announce 
this  intelligence  to  his  countrymen.  With  the  dawn  of  Friday, 
October  12th,  a  beautiful  isle  appeared,  two  leagues  to  the  north. 
The  crewb  of  all  the  ships  unitedly  sang  Te  Deum,  with  shouts  of 
joy  and  transports  of  congratulation.  They  then  threw  themselves 
"at  the  feet  of  Columbus,  and  begged  him  to  forgive  their  incredu- 
lity and  disobedience. 

The  island  was  one  of  the  groupe,  called  the  Bahamas.  Colum- 
bus named  it  San  Salvador,  but  it  is  now  better  known  by  the  na- 
tive name  of  Guanahani.* 

He  soon  afterwards  discovered  Cuba  and  Hispaniola.  After  vis- 
iting the  Azores,  on  his  return,  he  arrived  at  Palos,  on  the  15th  of 
March,  1493.  In  September  of  this  year,  Columbus  sailed  upon 
his  second  voyage  to  America  ;  discovered  the  islands,  Dominica, 
Marigalante,  Guadaloupe,  Montserrat,  Antigua,  Porto  Rico,  and 
Jamaica  ;  founded  a  town  in  St.  Domingo,  being  the  first  Euro- 
pean seltlen  ent  in  the  new  world  ;  and  returned  to  Spain  in  149  6. 

1496.  In  the  spring  of  this  year,  Giovani  Gaboto.f  a  Venetian, 
under  a  commission  from  Henry  VII.  sailed  from  England,  dis- 

♦The  Cat  island  of  the  English  mariners.  f  In  English,  John  Cabot. 


AMERICA,  ^7 

covered  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  coasted  northerly,  as  far  as  the 
67th  degree  of  latitude. 

1497.  In  company  with  his  son,  Sebastian  Cabot,  he  discovered 
Bonavista,  on  the  N.  E.  side  of  Newfoundland  ;  and,  before  his  re- 
turn, traversed  the  coast  from  Davis's  straits  to  cape  Florida. 

1498.  This  year  Columbus  made  his  third  voyaiJfe,  and,  Au^.  1, 
discovered  the  Continent,  at  the  mouth  of  tiic  Oronoco,  lOLjether 
witb  the  island  of  Trinidad.  He  then  returned  to  Hispaniola  ;  and 
in  October,  1500,  was  sent  back  to  Spain  in  chains  J  .'  I 

1500.  Pedro  Alvarez  Cabral,  on  a  voyage  to  the  East-Indies,  dis* 
covered  Brazil. 

1502.  Columbus  made  his  fourth  and  last  voyage.  He  discov- 
ered the  bay  of  Honduras,  and  coasted  thence  easterly  200  leagues, 
as  far  as  the  gulf  of  Darien.  During  this  voyage,  he  was  ship- 
wrecked on  the  island  of  Jamaica.  He  returned  to  Spain  in  1504. 
On  his  arrival  he  received  the  fatal  luews  of  the  death  of  his  pa- 
troness. Queen  Isabella.* 

1513.  Vasco  Nugnez  de  Balboa,  from  the  mountains  of  the  isth- 
mus, discovered  the  Pacific  ocean.  He  afterwards  waded  into  it, 
and  took  a  formal  possession  of  it,  in  the  name  of  the  king  of  Spain. 

In  the  same  year  John  Ponce,  a  Spanish  captain,  discovered 
East-Florida. 

1520.  Ferdinand  Magalhaens,  or  Magellan,  a  Portuguese  gen- 
tleman, in  the  employ  of  the  court  of  Castile,  discovered  the  straits 
of  Magellan,  and  sailed  through  them  into  the  Pacific  ocean.  No 
European  before  him  had  ever  sailed  on  its  waters.  To  him  it 
owes  its  name. 

1534.  James  Cartier,  in  the  employ  of  Francis  I.  of  France,  on 
the  day  of  the  festival  of  St.  Lawrence,  discovered  the  gulf  and  riv- 
er, which  bear  that  name. 

1553.  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby  discovered  the  island  of  Spitzber- 
gen. 

1578.  Sir  Francis  Drake  coasted  along  the  whole  western  shore 
of  South- America.  In  1579  he  discovered  California,  and  took 
possession  of  the  country  under  the  name  of  Kew-Albion.  He 
passed  thence  to  the  Moluccas,  or  Spice  islands,  Sept.  29,  1579, 
and  arrived  in  England,  Nov.  3,  1580,  after  an  absence  of  two  years 
and  ten  months. 

1585.  John  Davis,  an  experienced  navigator,  sailed  to  the  west- 
ern coast  of  Gret.nland,  and  explored  Davis's  straits.  On  another 
voyige  he  proceeded  as  far  north,  as  the  island  of  Disco,  and  dis- 
covered Cumberland's  straits. 

*  This  illustrious  man  was  afterwards  created  duke  of  Veragua.     He  died  of 
the  gout  At  ValUdolid,  oa  the  20th  of  May,  1506,  in  the  59th  year  of  bis  age  % 
and  was  buried  at  Seville  with  this  most  honorable  inscription. 
A  Cast  ilia  y  a  Leon 
Nuevo  Mundo  dio  Colon. 
To  Castile  and  lo  Leon 
Colon  gave  a  new  world. 
The  body  of  Columbus  was  carried  to  the  West-Indies,  and  buried  In  fh% 
the  Cathedral  at  St,  Domingo,  in  Hispaniola. 

8 


5t  AMERICA. 

1607.  H^nry  Hudson  explored  the  eastern  coast  of  Greenland^ 
as  fir  as  82°  north. 

1 609.  In  a  second  voyage,  he  discovered  Hudson's  river  and  as- 
cended it,  as  far  as  Albany. 

1610.  This  year  Hudson  made  his  tliird  voyage,  and  discovered 
the  straits  of  Hudson,  and  the  larijc  inland  sea,  known  by  the  name 
of  Hudson  bay. 

1616.  Captain  Robert  Bylat,  and  William  Baffin,  went  in  search 
of  a  north-west  passage  to  India.  Baffin  claims  to  have  discover- 
ed that  the  body  of  water  lyinj^  between  Greenland  and  America 
is  a  bay,  and  not  a  strait ;  and,  of  course,  that  Greenland  is  not  an 
island,  but  a  part  of  the  continent.  Little  credit,  however,  is  giv- 
en to  his  representations,  and  it  is  not  yet  ascertained  whether 
Greenland  is  a  peninsula  or  an  island. 

1728.  Captain  Vitus  Behring  sailed  from  Kamtschatka,  N.  E. 
as  far  as  lat.  67°. 

1745.  In  this  year,  the  Aleutian  or  Fox  islands,  stretching  west 
Irom  the  promontory  of  Aiashka,  were  discovered  by  some  Kamt- 
schadale  voyagers,  who  were  driven  by  stress  of  weather  near  to 
tlie  American  coast. 

1772.  Mr.  Hearne,  while  exploring  the  interior  of  North- Amer- 
ica, discovered  the  Frozen  sea,  in  about  110°  west  long,  and  in  lat. 
70**  north,  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  in  1789,  discovered  it  in  the  same  lati- 
tude, and  in  about  135°  west. 

Religions.  The  religions  v;hich  exist  in  America  are  the  Jewish^ 
the  Chrialian^  and  the  Pagan. 

A  fev/  Jews  are  scattered  over  the  large  towns  of  the  United 
States,  Mexico,  the  West-Indies,  und  South-America.  This  is  al- 
most the  only  country  in  which  this  scattered  and  devoted  people 
have  not  been  persecuted. 

Of  Christians,  Roman  Catholics  are  most  numerous  in  America. 
They  coinpose  the  rhief  European  population  oi  Canada,  and  the 
whole  of  that  of  Brazil  and  Sp.vnish  Aaierica.  Tliey  arc  found,  al- 
so, in  considerable  numbers  in  Maryland,  in  several  of  the  capital 
towns  in  other  parts  of  the   United  States,  and  in  the  West  Indies. 

Almost  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  United  States  are  Protesta'.Jts, 
ss  are  those  of  Nova  Scotia,  New-Bi-unswick,  New-Britain,  Green- 
land, and  the  islands  in  the  West-Indies,  which  were  settled  by  the 
English. 

The  native  tribes  of  North-America,  a  few  converts  to  Christian- 
ity excepted,  are  Pagans  ;  as  are  the  nations  in  Amazonia  and  Pat- 
agonia, as  weil  ;is  most  of  the  tribes  in  the  conquered  provinces  of 
South-America. 

Governments.  The  United  States  constitute  a  Federal  Re- 
public ;  Greenland  aiid  British  America  are  provinces  ;  Brazil  is 
nov/  an  independent  kingdom  ;  Spanish  America  is  struggling  to 
be  free  ;  Araucania,  in  Chili,  is  a  republic  ;  the  island  of  St.  Do- 
mingo calls  itself  an  errpirc  ;  and  the  Aborigines,  wiiere  they  are 
unsubdued,  with  th.e  exception  of  the  Araucaiuans  of  Cliili,  consti- 
tute numerous  independent  petty  kingdoms. 


AMERICA.  SS 

Pofiulation.  On  this  subject  we  have  scarcely  any  thing  to 
guide  us  but  conjecture.  That  of  the  United  States  is  known. 
That  of  Britislj  America  can  be  nearly  ascertained.  That  of  Span- 
ish America  and  Greenland  can  be  guessed  at ;  while  at  that  of 
aboriginal  America  one  would  hardly  venture  to  guess.  From  the 
best  information  which  we  have  been  able  to  obtain,  we  are  howev- 
er led  to  conclude,  that  it  does  not  exceed  35,000,000.  Nor  do 
we  believe  that  it  falls  greatly  short  of  that  number. 

Climatt  and  Seasons  America  extends  thi-ough  the  torrid  and 
jiorthern  temperate  zones  ;  through  a  great  part  of  the  southern 
temperate,  and  a  considerable  proportion  ot  tiie  northern  frigid 
zones.  The  winteis  of  North-America  cire  colder,  and  the  sum- 
mers hotter,  than  those  of  Europe  in  the  same  latitudes.  They 
bear  a  much  nearer  a.ffinity  to  those  of  eastern  Asia.  The  weather 
also  is  extremely  variable.  The  equatorial  regions  of  America 
are  never  subjected  to  the  intense  heat,  which  prevails  in  the  same 
regions  in  Africa.  The  compkxiun  ot  the  abuiigines  of  Peru  and 
Brazil  is  red,  and  is  but  a  few  sliades  darker,  than  that  of  the  In- 
dians of  New-England.  This  milder  temperature  is  owing  to  the 
vicinity  of  the  Andes.  The  temperate  regions  of  Soutli-Anierica 
are  colder  than  the  corresponding  latitudes  of  North-America.  It 
is  also  said,  that  the  Nortli-West  Coast  of  America  is  much  warm- 
er than  the  N.  E.  in  tue  same  pu-allels 

Face  of  the  Country.  Ameirca  contains  no  immense  deserts 
similar  to  the  Zaara  of  Africa,  or  the  extensive  sandy  plains  of  cen- 
tral Asia. 

Seas.  Hudson  Sea  (commonly  called  Hudson  Bay)  is  con- 
sidered as  commencing  at  cape  Chidky  and  cape  Waisingham, 
that  is,  in  long.  65°  VV.  It  reaches  3(j°  of  longitude  ;  which,  in  lat. 
60°,  will  be  about  1050  miles.  It  lies  between  51°  and  69°  "N.  iat. 
Its  length  of  course  is  1250  miles.  Labrador  bounds  it  on  the  E. 
and  New  North  and  New  South  Wales  on  the  W.  Its  shores,  from 
Moose  river,  or  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  to  cape  Churchill,  are  gen- 
erally low  and  shallow,  with  a  muddy  or  sandy  bottor«  ;  ;vnd  the 
lands  are  wooded  with  pines,  birch,  larch,  and  wil'ows.  From 
cape  Churchill  to  cape  Walsingham,  the  coacjis  are  :J1  nigh  and 
i'ocky  to  the  very  sea,  and  woodless,  except  the  moutlis  of  Pock- 
erekesko  and  Seal  rivers.  Nor  are  there  any  trees  for  a  great  dist- 
tance  inland.  The  whole  western  shore  is  fac'.id  with  islands,  at 
some  distance  from  the  land. 

Caribbean  Sea.  The  great  mass  of  waters  reaching  from  the 
peninsula  of  Yucatan,  on  the  west,  to  the  Windward  Islands  on  the 
east,  and  having  Porto  Rico,  Hispaniola,  and  Cuba,  on  the  north,  is 
usually  called  the  Caribbean  sea.  It  extends  from  61°  to  90" 
W.  long,  and  from  8°  to  22°  N.  lat.  The  bay  of  Honduras  is  near 
its  western  extremity.     East  of  this  bay  lies  the  gulf  of  Darien. 

Bays.  The  great  bays  or  gulfs  of  the  American  continent  are 
Baffin's  bay  ;  Hudson  bay  ;  the  Caribbean  sea  ;  and  the  gulfs  of 
St.  Lawrence,  Mexico,  and  California. 

Baffin's  Bay  lies  between  Greenland  on  the  east,  and  Labrador 
and  the  countries  north  of  Hudson  bay,  on  the  west.     According 


6D  AMERICA. 

to  Baffin's  narrative,  it  is  a  very  large  bay,  extending  not  less  than  1 300 
milts  from  N.  to  S  and  near  its  northern  extremity,  not  less  than 
600  from  E.  to  W.  Its  width,  near  the  southern  extremity,  in  that 
part  improperly  called  Davis's  straits,  is  not  more  than  350  miles. 

The  Gulf  of  Mexico  has  East-Florida  on  the  N.  E.  West-Florida 
and  Louisiana  on  the  N.  and  Mexico  on  the  W.  and  S.  It  extends 
from  1 8°  to  30°  N.  and  from  83°  to  98"  W.  It  communicates  with 
the  Atlantic  and  the  Caribbean  sea,  between  cape  Sable  and  cape 
Catoche.     Its  southern  extremity  is  called  the  bay  of  Camficachij. 

The  Gulf  of  St.  Laivrence  has  Labrador  on  the  N.  Newfound- 
land and  Cape  Breton  on  the  E.  and  Nova-Scotia  and  Canada  on 
the  S.  and  W.  It  extends  from  about  46°  to  52°  N  lat.  It  has 
three  communications  with  the  ocean,  one  between  Nova-Scotia 
and  Cape  Breton,  called  the  gut  of  Canso  ;  a  second  between  Cape 
Breton  and  Newfoundland  ;  a  third  between  Newfoundland  and 
Labrador,  called  the  straits  of  Bellcisle.  The  depth  of  this  gulf  is 
240  miles,  and  its  width  at  the  mouth,  90  miles. 

Gulf  of  Calf ornia.  This  is  a  bay  lying  between  the  peninsula 
of  California  and  Mexico.  Its  general  course  is  from  N.  W.  to 
S.  E.  It  lies  between  lat.  20  20,  and  32  30,  N.  and  between  long. 
105°  and  114°  E.  Its  greatest  length,  from  cape  Corientes  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Colorado,  is  not  less  than  900  miles.  Its  average 
breadth  is  about  200  miles.  The  gulf  communicates  with  the 
Pacific  ocean  between  ca}ie  St.  Lucas.,  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  peninsula,  in  lat.  22  48,  and  cafie  Corientes  on  the  Mexican 
coast,  in  lat.  20  20.* 

The  Gulf  Stream  \s,  a  remarkable  current,  occasioned  by  the 
general  trade  winds.  Commencing  at  the  equator,  near  the  coast 
of  Africa,  by  a  westward  course  it  crosses  the  Atlantic,  and  run- 
ning along  the  shores  of  Guiana  and  Terra  Firma,  passes  through 
the  Caribbean  sea,  and  coasts  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  It  then  issues 
from  the  gulf,  between  cape  Florida  and  the  island  of  Cuba,  and 
traversing  the  coasts  of  East-Florida,  the  United  States,  New- 
Bi  unswick,  and  Nova-Scotia,  proceeds  to  the  banks  of  Newfound- 
land There  it  turns  to  the  S.  E  ;  and,  passing  the  Azores,  it 
makes  for  the  coast  ol  Africa,  near  which,  at  the  equator,  it  com- 
mences anew  its  former  circuit.  It  is  easily  distinguishable  from 
the  other  waters  of  the  ocean  by  the  gulf  M'eed,  with  which  it  is  ev- 
ery where  interspersed;  by  being  8  or  10  degrees  warmer  than 
the  surrounding  sea  ;  and  by  not  sparkling  in  the  night.  In  liigh 
latitudes,  also,  it  is  always  covered  with  a  thick  fog.  It  passes 
about  75  miles  from  the  shores  of  the  southern  stales.  The  dis- 
tance increases  as  you  go  northward.  Its  breadth  is  about  40  or 
50  miles,  widening  to  the  north.  Its  common  rapidity  is  3  miles 
an  hour,  and  it  takes  about  20  days  for  it  to  run  from  cape  Florida 
to  Newfoundland.  Northeast  and  east  winds  narrow  the  stream, 
:fender  it  more  rapid,  and  drive  it  nearer  the  coast.  Northwest 
and  west  winds  have  a  contrary  effect.  Skilful  navigators,  in  their 
voyages  from  Europe  to  New-England,  pass  the  banks  of  Neiv- 

*  Venegas,  Hist  California.     Section  11 


AMERICA.  61 

%. 
foundland  in  44"  or  45°  N.  lat.  and  sail  thence  between  the  north- 
western limit  of  the  guli  stream  and  the  shoals  and  banks  of  Sable 
Island,  George's  Bank,  and  Nantucket. 

Islands.  The  principal  islands  are  Spitzbergen,  Iceland,  Ter- 
ra del  Fuego,  Cuba,  Hispaniola,  and  Newfoundland.  The  two 
first  have  commonly  been  considered  as  European  isles  ;  but  they 
are  much  nearer  to  Greenland  than  to  Norway.  They  will  all  be 
particularly  described  hereafter. 

Lakes.  The  northern  lakes  of  this  continent  may  be  considered 
imdcr  three  great  divisions.  1.  Those  whose  waters  are  discharg- 
ed into  the  Arctic  ocean.  2.  Those  whose  waters  pass  into  ffud- 
son  bay.  3.  Those  which  are  emptied  into  the  gulf  ot  St.  Law- 
rence. 

1.  Lakes  whose  waters  are  discharged  into  the  Arctic  ocean. 
Of  these  the  two  principal  are  lake  of  the  Hills  and  Slave  lake. 

Lake  of  the  Hills.  This  lake,  according  to  M-Keuzie, 
reaches  from  106°  to  ill  80  W.  and  from  58  40  to  59  40  N.  If 
this  account  be  correct  it  is  about  180  miles  long,  but  every  where 
narrow.  Fort  Ciiipewyan,  the  great  rendezvous  of  the  western 
traders,  lies  near  its  southwestern  extremity,  in  lat.  58  40  N.  long. 
110  30  W.  It  receives  the  waters  of  Eik  river  at  the  S.  W.  unci 
and  discharges  them  at  the  N.W.  end.  After  running  20  niiies 
due  N.  they  flow  into  Slave  river. 

Slave  Lake.  According  to  M'Kenzie's  map,  this  lake  lies  be- 
tween lat.  60  30  and  63°  N.  and  between  long.  110^'  and  1 19°  W. 
Its  length  from  E.  N.  E.  to  W.  S.  W.  is  about  270  miles  ;  and  its 
circumference,  owing  to  its  irregular  shape,  not  less  than  1000  or 
1 100  miles.  Slave  river  enters  it  near  the  western  end,  and  leaves 
it  at  the  N.  W.  corner,  in  lat.  61  20  N.  long.  118  30  \V.  where  it 
first  takes  the  name  of  M'Kenzie's  river. 

2.  Lakes  whose  waters  empty  into  Hudson  bay.  Of  these,  there 
are  two  classes :  those  emptied  by  Chui  chill's  river,  or  the  Missi- 
nipi ;  and  those  emptied  by  Nelson's  river. 

Of  the  former,  la/ce  la  Locke,  the  source  of  the  Missinipi,  is  20 
miles  in  length  ;  Buffalo  lake,  24  miles  below,  is  35  miles  long  and 
from  6  to  12  broad,  and  receives  river  LaLoche  at  the  N.  W.  end  ; 
lake  La  Crosse,  still  lower,  is  35  miles  by  12  ;  Biack  Bear  lake,  a 
little  more  than  200  miles  still  lower  on  the  stream  than  Bufialo 
lake,  is  45  miles  long.  The  Missinipi,  leaving  Black  Bear  lake, 
pursues  an  easterly  course  of  115  miles  to  portage  de  Traite,  the 
height  of  land  between  the  Missinipi  and  lake  Winnipec,  and  thence 
runs  N.  E.  to  Hudson  bay.  We  have  mentioned  these  lakes 
rather  on  account  of  their  connection,  than  their  size. 

Of  the  latter  of  these  classes  Cedar  lake,  34  miles  long  and  12 
broad,  is  the  largest  connected  with  the  Saskatchawinc  before  it 
falls  into  lake  Winnipec  ;  and  Rainy  lake  and  lake  of'  the  H'oods 
are  the  two  largest  connected  with  Winnipec  river. 

Rainy  Lake.  This  is  45  miles  long,  but  every  where  narrow. 
At  the  east  end  it  receives  Winnipec  river,  and  discharges  it  at  the 
west  end.  This  lake  is  chiefly  important  as  being  part  of  the. 
northern  boundary  of  the  United  States. 


f,2  AMERICA. 

Lake  of  the  Woods,  is  nearly  circular,  and  its  diameter  is 
about  75  miles.  Winnipec  river  flows  into  it,  120  nnles  btiow 
Rainy  lake  ;  and  runs,  after  leavinti;  the  lake  of  the  VVoocis,  250 
miles,  before  it  empties  into  lake  Winriipec. 

Lake  Wixnipec  stretches  from  VV.  N.  W.  to  S.  S.  E.  Its. 
S.  E.  end  is  in  iat.  30  37  N.  In  51  45  it  contracts  to  a  mere  strait, 
and  is  only  2  miles  wide.  Its  N.  W.  end  is  in  54  30.  Its  length 
is  at  least  280  miles,  and  its  surface  larger  than  that  of  any  of  the 
American  lakes,  except  lake  Supeiior.  At  a  small  distance  W. 
of  lake  Winnipec,  and  parallel  with  it,  lie  two  long  and  narrow 
lakes,  Bed  Deer  lake,  and  lake  Munitoba  ;  whose  united  length,  on 
M'Kenzie's  map,  is  not  much  less  than  that  of  lake  Winnipec.  The 
Saskatchawine  enters  lake  Winnipec,  in  Iat.  55  15,  on  the  W.  side. 
Red  river,  which  is  said  to  rise  near  the  Missouri,  fails  into  its 
southern  extremity.  In  the  S.  W.  in  Iat.  50  37,  it  receives  Winni- 
pec river.  Its  waters  are  discharged  through  Nelson's  river  intp 
Hudson  bay. 

S.  Lakes,  which  empty  into  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.- The  most 
distant  source  of  these  waters  is  the  river  St.  Louis,  which  rise^ 
near  the  head  of  the  Missisippi,  and  empties  into  the  southwest  exr 
tremity  of 

Lake  Supebior.  This  is  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  on  the 
globe.  It  lies  between  Iat.  46  31,  and  48  40  N.  and  between  Ion. 
84°  and  92  10  W.  Its  length  is  400  nules,  and  its  circumference, 
including  its  various  bays,  is  1  600.  On  its  south  side  is  a  remark" 
able  promontory,  60  miles  in  length,  called  point  Shagoimago. 
Along  its  north  shore  is  the  safest  navigation,  as  it  is  a  continued 
embankment  of  rock  from  300  to  1500  feet  in  height.  Here  are  nu= 
incrous  coves  and  sandy  bays,  convenient  for  landing,  frequently 
sheltered  by  islands  from  the  swell  of  the  lake,  which  is  often  no 
very  faint  imitation  of  the  swell  of  the  ocean.  The  soil  on  the 
eastern  shore  is  rocky  and  barren,  yielding  only  stinted  trees,  bram- 
bles, and  fruits  of  humble  growth.  The  south  side  of  the  lake,  east 
of  point  Shagoimago,  is  almost  a  continual  straight  line  of  sandy 
beech,  interspersed  with  rocky  precipices  of  limestone,  sometime^ 
rising  to  an  hundred  feet  in  height.  There  is  not  a  bay  or  a  creek 
in  this  whole  distance.  The  embankments,  from  that  point  west- 
ward, are  in  general  of  strong  clay,  mixed  with  stones,  which  ren- 
ders ilic  navigation  irksome  and  dangerous.  Lake  Superior  re- 
ceives from  the  N.  E.  the  waters  of  Michipicoten  river,  which  rises 
near  the  source  of  Moose  river,  a  stream  falling  into  James  bay  at 
Moose  fort;  and,  from  the  N.  W.  the  waters  of  lake  St.  Ann, 
through  Nipegon  river,  which  rises  near  a  branch  of  the  Albany,^ 
river,  which  falls  into  James  bay,  at  fort  Albany. 

About  100  miles  west  of  cape  Shagoimago,  a  considerable  river 
falls  into  the  lake,  the  head  of  which  is  composed  of  a  great  assem- 
blage of  small  streams.  This  river  is  remarkable  for  the  abundance 
ol  virgin  copper  that  is  found  on  and  near  its  banks. 

Lake  Huron.  The  length  of  this  lake  is  250  miles,  and  its 
circumference,  including  the  coasts  of  the  bays,  1 100.  It  lies  be- 
tween Iat.  43  30  and  46  30  N.  and  between  ion.  80°  and  84  30  W. 


AMERICA.  ^3 

The  entrance  is  crowded  with  numerous  islands.  The  principal  of 
these  is  St.  Joseph,  on  which  there  has  been  since  the  surrender  of 
the  upper  posts,  in  1794,  a  military  cstablis  ment,  the  westernmost 
which  tlic  British  have  erected.  About  200  miles  E.  of  the  straits 
of  St.  Mary,  in  lat.  45  53,  it  receives,  from  the  N.  the  waters  of 
lake  N'episingui,  throutijh  French  river.  Tliis  lake  is  36  miles  long, 
and  15  broad  ;  and  its  distance  from  lake  Hnron  is  75  miles  French 
river  has  many  islands  in  its  course,  and  us  banks  consist  of  hills  of 
entire  rock.  The  northern  coast  of  lake  Huron  is  the  same,  but 
lower,  backed  at  some  distance  by  high  lands.  The  waters  of  lake 
Simcoe,  about  equal  hi  size  to  lake  Nepibingui,  fall  into  lake  Huron 
from  the  east. 

JvAKE  MicHFGAN.  The  situation  of  this  lake  is  between  lat. 
42  (0  and  45  30  N.  and  between  Ion.  85°  and  87°  \V.  It  is  300 
miles  long  and  945  in  circumference.  A  large  bay,  on  the  N.  W. 
side  of  it,  is  called  Green  bay  Michigan  is  separated  by  a  barren 
tongue  of  land,  90  miles  long  and  24  broad,  from  lake  Superior. 
The  S.  E.  extremity  of  this  promontory  is  called  the  Detour.  About 
40  miles  to  the  S.  W.  of  this  point  is  the  island  of  Mlchilimacki- 
nac,*  just  without  the  straits  of  the  same  name,  through  which  the 
waters  of  the  Michigan  fall  into  the  Huron.  Fort  Michilimackinac 
is  on  the  south  side  of  the  strait.  It  stands  so  near  the  water's  edge^ 
that,  in  a  west  wind,  the  waves  break  against  the  stockade.f 

The  waters  of  lakes  Superior,  Michigan,  and  Huron  are  all  dis- 
charged, through  Huron  river,  h»to  lake  St.  Clair.  The  length  of 
this  river  is  about  40  miles,  and  the  circumference  of  lake  St.  Clair, 
90.  It  discharges  its  waters  through  the  river  or  strait  called  De- 
troit (or  the  strait)  into  lake  Erie.  This  lake  is  of  an  oval  form, 
and  navigable  for  large  vessels.  The  fort  of  Detroit  is  situated  on 
the  western  bank  of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  about  9  miles  be- 
low lake  St.  Clair.  The  settlements  are  extended  on  both  sides  of 
the  strait  or  river  for  many  miles  towards  lake  Erie,  and  some  few 
above  the  fort. 

Lake  Ehie^  is  situated  between  4 1 "  and  43°  of  N.  lat.  It  is  20a 
miles  long,  from  E.  N.  E.  to  W.  S.  W.  and  710  miles  in  circum- 
ference. A  point  of  land  projects  from  the  N.  side  into  this  lake, 
several  miles,  towards  the  S.  E.  called  Long  Point. 

Presque  Isle  is  on  the  S.  E.  shore  of  this  lake,  about  lat.  42  10. 
From  this  to  fort  Le  Beuf,  on  French  creek,  is  a  portage  of  1 54. 
milfis.  About  20  miles  N  E.  of  this  is  another  portage  of  9i  miles", 
between  Chataughque  creek,  emptying  into  lake  Eric,  and  Cha- 
tauglique  lake,  a  water  of  AUegatiy  river. 

Fort  Eric  stands  on  the  northern  shore  of  lake  Erie,  and  the  west 
bank  of  Niagara  river,  in  Upper  Canada.  I'his  lake  at  its  N.  E. 
end,  communicates  with  lake  Ontario,  by  the  river  Niagara,  which 
runs  from  S.  to  N.  about  30  miles,  including  its  windings,  embrac- 

*  Pronounced  Mlslilhnackina'zu. 

f  For  further  info.inution  concerning  this  lake  and  its  environs,  see  Midhan 

Territory. 

^  Erie,  Erige,  or  Erike,  or  the  lake  of  the  Cat.    Berne  fin. 


64  AMERICA. 

ing  in  its  course  Grand  island,  and  receiving  Tonewanto  creek, 
iVom  the  E.  About  the  middle  of  this  river,  are  the  celebrated 
Falls  of  Niai^ara,  which  are  reckoned  one  of  the  greatest  natural 
curiosities  in  tiie  world.  The  waters  which  supply  the  river  Ni- 
agara rise  near  2000  miles  to  the  N.  W.  and  passing  through  the 
lakes  Superior,  Michigan,  Huron,  and  Erie,  receiving  in  their 
course  constant  accumulations,  at  length,  with  astoiiisliing  gran- 
deur, rush  down  a  stupendous  precipice  of  1  37  feel  perpendicular  ; 
and  in  a  strong  rapid,  that  extends  lo  the  distance  of  8  or  9  miles 
below,  fall  near  as  much  more  ;  the  river  then  loses  itself  in  lake 
Ontario  The  water  falls  57  feet  in  the  distance  of  one  mile,  be- 
fore it  falls  perpendicularly.*  A  spectator  standing  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  opposite  these  falls,  would  not  imagine  them  to  be 
more  than  40  or  50  feet  perpendicular  height  The  noise  of  these 
falls,  in  a  clear  day  and  fair  wind,  may  be  heard  between  40  and  50 
miles.  When  the  water  strikes  the  bottom,  its  spray  rises  to  a 
great  height  in  the  air,  occasioning  a  thick  cloud  of  vapours,  in 
which,  when  the  sun  shines,  may  be  seen,  morning  and  evening,  a 
beautiful  rainbow.  Fort  Niagara,  built  by  the  French  about  the 
year  1725,  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Niagara  river,  at  its  en- 
trance into  lake  Ontario,  about  43  20  north  latitude. 

Lake  Ontario  is  situated  between  43°  and  45°  north  latitude,  and 
between  76°  and  80°  west  longitude.  Its  form  is  nearly  oval.  Its 
greatest  length  is  from  southwest  to  northeast,  160  miles  according 
to  Heriot,  and  its  circumference  450  miles.  On  the  northeast, 
this  lake  discharges  itself  through  the  river  Cataraqui  (which  at 
Montreal,  takes  the  name  of  St.  Lawrence)  into  the  Atlantic  ocean. 
The  waters  of  lake  Ontario  are  discharged  at  its  northeast  end, 
into  the  river  St  Lawrence,  which  runs  a  northeast  course  of  690 
miles,  and  empties  into  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  It  meets  the 
tide  upwards  of  400  njiles  from  the  sea,  and  is  so  far  navigable  for 
large  vessels.  This  noble  river,  if  considered  as  rising  at  the 
source  of  the  Lt.  Louis,  is  at  least  2000  miles  in  length  ;  and,  in 
its  quantity  of  water,  is  surpassed  by  no  river  on  the  globe,  except 
the  Amazon  and  La  Plata.  It  meets  the  tide  upwards  of  400  miles 
from  the  sea,  and  is  so  far  navigable  for  large  vessels.  Its  size 
may  be  estimated  from  the  following  fact.  In  Niagara  river,  3 
miles  from  lake  Erie,  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  its  width  is  7  furlongs, 
or  1^  of  a  mile,  its  average  depth  2 1  feet,  and  its  rapidity  6  miles  an 
Lour.  The  commercial  advantage  of  this  river  will  be  great  in 
proportion  to  the  population  of  its  banks.  The  Indian  trade,  in  a 
great  measure,  takes  its  current  down  the  St.  Lviwrence,  particu- 
larly since  vessels  of  a  considerable  size  are  constantly  building  for 
the  navigation  of  the  lakcs.f 

Nicaragua  Lake.     This  is  a  large  lake  in  the  isthmus  of  Darien, 

*  It  is  believed  by  the  inhabitants  in  the  neighborhood  of  these  falls,  that 
formerly  they  were  6  miles  lower  down  thin  they  now  are,  and  that  the  change 
has  been  produced  by  the  constant  operation  of  the  water  But  on  a  careful 
examination  of  the  banks  of  the  river,  there  appears  to  be  no  good  foundation 
for  this  opinion.  Qen.  Lincoln, 

t  Smyth, 


AMERICA.  65 

cotnmtlnicating  with  the  gulf  of  Mexico  by  Nicaragua  river.  It  is 
said  by  Crutweil,  to  be  300  miles  in  circumference.  At  its  west 
end,  it  is  connected,  by  a  narrow  strait,  with  a  small  lake,  called 
lake  Leon. 

Xarayes  Lake.  This  is  the  largest  lake  in  South-America.  It 
lies  in  the  province  of  Paraguay,  and  the  river  Paraguay,  the  prin- 
cipal source  of  the  La  Plata,  passes  through  it.  It  is  said  to  be 
very  extensive,  but  we  are  not  informed  of  its  exact  dimensions. 

Rivers.  The  rivers  of  An>erica,  also,  in  their  length,  their  ra- 
pidity, and  their  quantity  of  water,  will  bear  a  comparison  with  any 
of  the  rivers  of  the  old  world.  They  reach  from  one  side  of  the 
continent  to  the  other ;  and  are  not,  like  most  of  the  rivers  of  Eu- 
rope and  Asia,  confined  within  the  limits  of  a  single  country. 

Amazon.  This  is  the  largest  and  lonifpst  river  on  the  globe. 
It  is  sometimes  called  the  Orella7ia,  more  frequently  the  Maranon-j 
but  usually  the  Amazon.  Its  source  is  the  lake  of  Lauricocha^ 
near  the  city  of  Guanuco,  in  lat.  1 1°  south.  It  passes  by  Jaen,  in. 
lat.  9  21  south.  Thence  in  a  direction  a  little  north  of  east,  it 
falls  into  the  ocean  ;  where  its  mouth  is  of  such  an  enormous 
breadth,  that  its  southern  bank  lies  under  the  equator,  and  its  north- 
ern nearly  2°  north.  The  distance  from  its  source  to  Jaen,  ac- 
cording to  Ulloa,  is  730  English  miles  ;  and  the  distance  from 
Jaen  to  the  ocean,  following  the  windings  of  the  river,  3300  miles. 
Its  whole  length,  therefore,  is  4030  miles,  and  its  breadth  at  tha 
mouth  is  150  miles.  The  Amazon  is  navigable  as  far  as  Jaen  5, 
and  the  tide  flows  up  600  miles  from  its  mouth.  Its  principal 
southern  branches  are  the  Yucayale,  which  joins  the  Amazon  in 
lat.  4  15  south  ;  where  its  width  is  so  great,  as  to  leave  it  doubtful,, 
which  is  the  principal  stream  :  the  Cuchibara,  which  runs  a  course 
of  1200  or  1300  miles  ;  and  the  Madera,  which  is  navigable  as  far 
South  as  Santa  Cruz,  in  lat.  17  30;  its  whole  course  being  1700 
or  1800  miles.  The  chief  branches,  from  the  north,  are  the  NapO|. 
the  Putuamayo,  and  tlae  Caqueta. 

Missouri.  We  are  not  acquainted  with  any  attempt  to  explore 
this  river,  except  that  made  by  order  of  the  government  of  the 
United  States  in  1804,  5,  and  6.  According  to  their  account,  the 
Missouri,  near  its  source,  is  formed  of  three  branches,  which  unite 
at  one  place.  These  branches,  by  the  map  annexed  to  their  ac- 
count, rise  among  tlie  Rocky  mountains,  the  northern  one  near  lat. 
48°  north  ;  the  southern  near  lat.  42"  north  ;  and  all  near  Ion.  122* 
west.  The  northern  branch,  the  only  one  our  travellers  explored,  was 
navigable  248  miles.  The  distance  from  the  confluence  of  these 
streams  to  the  Great  Rapids,  is  283  miles;  thence  to  the  conflu- 
ence with  Plate  river,  1945  miles,  and  thence  to  the  confluence  with, 
the  Mi3sisippi,630  miles,  making  a  total  of  3106  miles,  the  distance 
v/hich  the  Missouri  is  navigable  above  its  confluence  with  the  Mis- 
sisippi.  This  is  1395  miles  from  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  We  our- 
selves believe,  that  the  length  of  the  Missouri,  before  it  meets  the 
Missisippi,  is,  probably,  about  2400  miles. 

INTissisiFPT-.     This  river  rises  iji  lat,  47  38  north?  snd  Ion.  95  * 


m  AMERICA. 

tvest.     Its  course  is  southeasterly  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  about; 
SOO  miles. 

From  these  falls  this  river  is  beatable  to  its  junction  with  the 
Missouri,  a  distance  of  1030  miles,*  in  which  its  course  is  neJirly 
south.     It  is  not  so  lon^,  deep,  or  rapid  as  the  Missouri  branch.! 

The  Missisippi  receives  the  waters  of  tlie  Missouri  in  lat.  38  27 
north.  Ion.  89  36  west.  Its  course  thence  to  the  mouth  of  Red  riv- 
er, a  distance  of  1068  miles,  is  nearly  S.  by  V/.  and  from  Red  river 
to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  a  distance  of  327  miles,  about  S.  E.  the 
whole  distance  being  1395  miles. |  Its  mouth  is  nearly  in  the  same 
longitude  with  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  Or  the  point  w^here  it 
mingles  its  waters  with  the  Missisippi. 

The  following  table  of  the  distances  of  various  places  on  this  riv- 
er is  obtained  from  Sohultz's  Travels.  We  believe  they  are  gen- 
erally accurate. 

From  the  Missouri  to 

zvliole  luholt 

miles,     distance.  miles,  distance. 

St.  Louis  14  14  Natchez  142  998 

St.  Genevieve  73  87  Loftus'  heights  55  1055 

Kaskaskias  river  16  103  Line  of  demarca-'J 

Grand  chain  of  rocks  75  178       tion  between  U.  i.  5  105S 

Mouth  of  Ohio  15  153       S.  and  Florida    J 

New-Madrid  75  268  Red  river  10  1 068 

St.  Francis  river  240  508  Baton  Rouge  104  1172 

Arkansas  107  615  New-Orleans  136  1308 

¥azoo  241  856  Fort  Balize  87  1395 

The  Louisiana  bank,  from  the  Missouri  to  cape  Girardeau,  1 57 
miles,  continues  generally  high,  except  the  interval  land  on  the 
margin  of  the  river  ;  yet  it  forms  throughout  all  this  distance,  only 
a  moderately  elevated  ridge,  from  one  to  four  miles  from  the  river. 
At  cape  Girardeau  it  begins  to  assume  the  appearance  of  a  rough 
and  mountainous  country.  This  continues  15  miles  to  the  Grand 
Towers,  where  the  ridge  is  a  perpendicular  rocky  precipice,  200 
feet  high.  From  the  Grand  Towers  to  the  Grand  chain  of  rocks, 
6  miles,  the  land  gradually  descends  to  its  genei'al  level,  which  it 
afterwards  continues,  without  interruption.  The  Indiana  or  east- 
ern side,  on  the  contrary,  fi'om  the  great  bend  to  tl.e  mouth  of  the 
Ohio,  is  a  plain,  level  country,  except  a  ridge  of  hills,  which  com- 
menres  at  the  American  bottom,  62  miles  south  of  the  bend,  and 
terminates  near  the  Kaskaskias,  preserving  a  distance  of  from  3  to 
12  miles  from  the  river. 

From  the  grand  chain  of  rocks  to  fort  Placquemine,  43  miles  be- 
low New-Orleans,  a  distance  by  the  river  of  1 173  miles,  the  Louis- 

*  Schultz. 

^  The  Missouri  being  much  larger  than  the  Missisippi  branch,  some  modem 
geographers  are  beginning  to  give  the  whple  river  the  name  of  Missouri,  whic^ 
Sprobably  its  proper  name. 

iS«hultz» 


AMERICA.  6? 

iiana  bank  is  but  a  little  higher  than  the  ordinary  level  of  the  river. 
It  preserves  this  height  for  a  space  from  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  2 
miles  wide  ;  westward  of  which,  throughout  this  whole  extent,  is  a 
•swampy  country  of  from  20  to  50  miles  in  breadth.  This  bank  is 
inundated  every  spring,  and  often  in  the  autumn  ;  and  the  super- 
abundant waters  of  the  river  are  thus  poured  out  over  the  whole 
surface  of  the  swamp,  and  render  it  entirely  incapable  of  being  in- 
habited or  cultivated.  In  the  narrov/  strip,  also,  on  the  margin  of 
•the  river,  there  is  scaixely  a  spot  in  all  this  distance,  that  furnishes 
a  site  for  a  town  or  a  village,  which  is  safe  at  all  times  from  inun- 
dation ;  New-Madrid,  the  only  town  on  the  western  side  below  cape 
Girardeau,  has  been  once  inundated  ;  and  the  street  intended  to 
front  on  the  river,  has  been  washed  away,  in  consequence  of  a 
change  in  the  current.  A  considerable  part  of  the  eastern  shore 
is  also  inundated,  except  where  it  is  prevented  by  the  narrow  bluffs 
and  headlands.  .  Of  these  there  are  14  between  the  Ohio  and  the 
gulf.  The  following  table  exhibits  the  names,  distances,  and 
breadths  on  the  liver,  where  they  are  known,  of  these  bluffs. 
From  the  great  bend  to  the 

miles,    front.  ^Ues.        frot^. 

Iron  banks  293   -   - 

Chalk  banks  5 

Upper  Chickasaw  bluffs  154       1     Natchez  77  25 

Second  Chickasaw  bluffs  1 1 

Third  Chickasaw  bluffs     26 

Fourth  Chickasaw^  bluffs  52 

Walnut  hills  253 

The  banks  on  both  sides  throughout  this  distance,  are  almost  uni- 
■versally  covered  with  forest  trees.  From  fort  Placquemine  south 
both  banks  are  mere  swamps  to  the  river's  mouth. 

The  Missisippi  has  many  islands,  some  of  which  are  5  or  6  miles 
in  length,  but  they  are  all  low  and  subject  to  inundations.  They 
are  constantly  changing  their  position  and  appearance.  The  navi- 
gation of  this  river  is  impeded  by  what  the  boatmen  call  sawyers 
and  planters.,  hy  falling  banks^  and  luooden  islands. 

Below  cape  Girardeau,  in  consequence  of  the  lownessof  the  ad- 
jacent country,  the  river  has  worn  outlets,  or  Bayaus.,  in  the  banks, 
through  which  its  waters  are  impelled  with  great  rapidity,  and 
which  endanger  the  passing  boats.  Several  of  these  are  properly 
branches  of  the  main  river,  conducting  a  part  of  its  watei-s  to  the 
sea.  Beside  these  Bayaus,  the  main  branch  of  the  Missisippi  has 
three  mouths,  or  passes.  The  east  Jiass  is  20  miles  long,  and  has 
16  feet  water  over  the  bar.  It  is  the  pass  principally  used ;  and, 
immediately  above  the  bar,  which  is  very  narrow,  has  water  suf- 
.ficient  for  a  ship  of  the  line.  The  scuth  pass  is  22  miles  long,  and 
the  south  west  25.  They  have  both  about  8  or  9  feet  over  the  bar. 
Fort  Balize  stands  on  a  little  island  at  the  north  side  of  the  east 
pass.  The  breadth  of  the  Missisippi  at  New-Orleans  is  a  mile  and 
a  quarter,  its  depth  from  30  to  40  fathoms,  and  every  whert  from 
the  bar  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  sufficient  to  float  a  ship  of  the 
Mne. 


ronf. 

1 

4. 

1 

I 

Grand  gulf 
Petit  gulf 
Natchez 

53 
20 
77 

1 

White  cliffs 

20 

1 

Loftus'  heights 

35 

10 

Little  cliffs 

103 

Baton  Rouge 

2A 

^8  AMERICA: 

Fogs  are  very  frequent  on  the  Missisippi,  and  those  so  thick,  as 
to  render  objects  at  the  distance  of  100  feet  invisible.  They  com- 
monly rise  only  to  the  height  of  30  or  40  feet. 

The  usual  current  of  the  river  is  3  rriiles  an  hour.  The  passage 
of  ships  from  the  Balize  to  New-Orleans  takes  up  from  5  to  30 days, 
vhile  a  light  wind  will  cai'ry  ships  down  in  12  hours.  From  New- 
Orleans  to  Natchez  the  voyage  often  takes  up  from  60  to  80  days. 
Ships  rarely  ascend  above  this  place.  Boats  descend  from  Natch- 
ez to  New-Orleans  in  one  week,  but  are  about  3  weeks  in  return- 
ing. The  principal  branches  of  the  Missisippi,  below  its  junction 
with  the  Missouri,  are  the  Ohio  from  the  east,  and  the  Arkansas 
•and  Red  rivers  from  Louisiana. 

St.  Lawuewce.  The  St.  Lawrence  has  two  sources  both  trib- 
utaries of  lake  Superior.  The  <S;.  Z-owis,  the  southern,  rises  in  the 
Illinois  Territory,  near  the  v/aters  of  the  Missisippi,  and  falls  into 
Lake  Superior  at  its  western  extremity,  in  lat.  46  45  N.  long  92  10 
\V  ;  called  by  the  French,  l!V77d  du  Lac,  and  by  the  English,  West 
Say.  Dox<e  river  the  other  source  rises  in  Peche  lake,  a  small 
pond  3  miles  over,  whose  waters  are  only  679  paces  from  lake 
Hauteur  dc  Terre  the  source  of  Winnipec  River.  The  space  be- 
tween tl\cm  is  the  real  height  of  land  between  lakes  Winnipec 
and  Superior.  Dove  river  runs  an  easterly  course  of  50  miles  to 
the  latter,  emptying  a  little  N  of  the  Grand  Portage.  St.  Mary's 
river  is  the  outlet  of  lake  Superior,  through  which  its  waters  flow 
into  lake  Huron.  It  is  70  miles  long  and  from  -I  to  10  miles  wide. 
The  straits  and  falls  of  St.  Mary  are  22  miles  below  lake  Superior. 
The  river  is  here  less  than  a  mile  wide,  and  in  -J  of  a  mile  falls  25 
feet.  It  is  navigable  to  the  falls  for  the  largest  ships.  The  next 
branch  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  the  outlet  of  lake  Huron,  called  St* 
Clair  river.  It  runs  nearly  S.  40  miles  and  is  generally  -|  of  a  mile 
•wide.  The  laud  along  the  shore  is  low.  It  is  navigable  for  the 
largest  vessels,  except  at  its  discharge  into  lake  St.  Clair,  where 
Is  a  bar  with  only  6.|  feet  water.  The  nejit  division  is  Detroit  riv- 
er, 27  miles  long,  running  S.  W.  i2,  and  then  due  S.  15°  to  lake 
Erie.  It  is  every  where  navigable  for  the  largest  ships  ;  and  is 
generally  from  1  to  1|^,  and  in  some  places  3  miles  wide.  JViaga- 
ra  river,  the  next  division  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  discharges  Erie  into 
Ontario.  It  is  36  miles  long.  The  falls  are  21  miles  from  Erie 
and  15  from  Ontario.  The  outlet  of  Lake  Ontario,  commonly 
called  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  sometimes  the  L-o(/uois,  is  the  lorg- 
<fest  division  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Its  course  is  N.  E.  and  its 
length  690  miles.  It  empties  by  a  month  90  milts  wide  into  the 
t^ulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  meets  the  tide  400  miles  from  the  sea. 
The  St.  Lawrence,  from  its  source  through  the  lakes  to  its  mouth, 
is  more  than  2000  miles  in  length  ;  and  in  the  quantity  of  water 
annualipr  contributed,  is  nearly  unrivalled. 

La  Plata.  This  river  is  formed  by  two  others,  the  Paraguay 
and  the  Parana.  The  Paraguay,  the  principal  stream,  unites  its 
waters  with  those  of  the  Parana,  about  750  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Below  this  confluence  it  bears  the  name  of  the  La  Plata,  or  Silver 
TJver,  which  it  received  from  Sebastian  Cabot,  "who,  in  1526,  sailed 


AMERICA.  69 

700  miles  up  the  Parana.     The  La  Plata  is  navigable  for  large  ves- 
sels, as  far  as  Assumption,  which  is  977  miles.* 

Oronoco.  The  source  of  the  Oronoco  is  supposed  to  be  in  the 
Ibirinoko  mountains,  N.  W.  of  lake  Parima,  in  lat.  3°  N.  ar.d  long, 
65°  W.  About  740  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Oronoco,  and 
760  from  its  source,  it  pours  its  waters  over  the  cataracts  of  Atuscs. 
Below  the  cataracts,  90  miles,  it  is  enlarged  by  the  waters  of  the 
JMcta,  one  of  its  principal  tributaries,  500  miles  in  length  ;  which 
rises  in  weiitern  Terra  Firma,  and  is  navigable  to  Maruco,  about 
370  miles.  Below  tliis,  140  miles,  the  Oronoco  receives  from  the 
tvest,  the  Apura,  a  large  and  deep  river,  520  miles  long,  and  is 
navigable  aboiit  200  miles.  From  the  Apura  to  St.  Thomas,  the 
capital  of  Spanish  Guiana,  is  250  miles.  About  1 50  miles  below 
St.  Thomas  and  120  from  the  sea,  it  divides  itself  like  the  Nile, 
into  a  great  number  of  branches,  and  discharges  its  waters  into  the 
ocean  by  50  mouths,  7  of  which  only  are  navigable  ;  and  but  one 
of  these,  the  southern,  called  the  Ship's  Mozit/i,  for  vessels  of  more 
than  200  tons.  This  last  is  near  50  miles  wide,  and  is  formed  by- 
Point  Barima  in  lat.  8  45  N.  and  the  isle  of  Cangrejos.  The  banks 
of  the  Oronoco  for  120  miles,  and  the  islands  in  its  Delta,  are  all 
Jow,  boggy  lands,  in  most  places  liable  to  inundations.  The  Goa- 
rauno  Indians  have  found  here  a  secure  retreat. 

M^Kenzie's  rive?-  is  formed  oi  Peace  and  £/k  rivers,  the  former 
of  which  rises  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  about  800  yards  only  fiom 
the  head  waters  of  Columbia  river.  Its  general  course  is  north- 
erly about  2035  miles  from  its  remotest  source,  when  it  empties 
into  the  Arctic  or  Frozen  ocean.  JVelson'a  river  is  formed  of  the 
Saskatchawine  and  Winnifiec  rivers.  Its  course  is  northeasterly 
about  1450  miles,  when  it  empties  into  Hudson  bay,  at  York  fort 
in  lat.  52  30  N. 

Columbia  River  exnpties  into  the  Pacific  ocean  in  lat.  46  40 
N.  long.  24°  W.  Bad  river,  its  most  northern  branch,  heads  a- 
mong  the  Rocky  mountains,  in  lat.  54  24  N.  Ion.  121°  W.  in  a 
smalliake,  about  2  miles  long,  and  only  817  yards  from  the  source 
of  M'Kenzie's  river.  The  whole  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  to  the  source  of  Bad  river,  cannot  be  less  than  1000 
iTdiles,  nor  to  the  source  of  the  Tacoutche-Tesse,  another  branch, 
probably  less  than  1200.  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke  sailed  down 
the  Columbia  and  its  branches  640  miles  to  the  ocean.  The  Co- 
lumbia is  navigable  for  sloops  as  high  as  the  tide  water,  183  miles  ; 
and  for  vessels  of  300  tons  burthen,  125  miles  further,  to  the  en- 
trance of  the  Multnomah,  a  large  southern  branch  of  the  Columbia, 
"which  is  said  to  rise  on  the  confines  of  NcAv-Mexico. 

The  Colorado,  according  to  Humboldt,  rises  in  lat.  40''  N.  and 
probably  in  about  long.  106*^  E.  in  the  mountains  of  New-Mexico. 
In  lat.  about  35°  N.  it  receives  the  Gila,  a  very  large  river  from 
the  S-  E.  and  empties  into  the  gulf  of  California  in  about  lat.  32  30. 
The  v/hole  length  of  the  Colorado  is  about  1000  miles. 

Thf.  Bravo;  rises  in  about  lat.  40°  N.  40  miles  E.  of  the  head  of 

*UHoa,II.  187;  182. 


Sro  AMERICA. 

the  Colrjrado  ;  pursues  a  southeasterly  course,  till  it  falls  into  the 
gulf  of  Mexico,  in  lat.  26°.  Its  length  is  about  1800  miles.  It  is 
claimed  by  the  United  States  as  the  western  boundary  of  Louisiana. 

Mountains.  The  mountains  of  America  form  two  distinct  ranges, 
the  iLaiCiT/:,  and  the  Wester?!.  The  Eastern  is  the  Allegany  ra?ige  ; 
it  bears  i.o  proportion  to  the  Western  in  length  or  elevation  ;  and 
is  contamed  eniircly  within  the  United  States. 

The  Western  is  unequalled  by  any  on  the  globe  in  its  extent ;  in 
the  height  of  its  summits  ;  and  in  the  number  and  terrible  nature 
of  its  volcanoes.  It  commences  in  lat.  54''  S.  and  terminates  in  the 
Northern  ocean.  Its  whole  length  is  11,500  miles.  It  receives 
different  names  in  different  parts  of  its  progress.  In  South- America 
it  is  called  tne  yJ?ides  ;  in  Mexico,  the  Cordilleras  of  Mexico  ;  andj 
farther  to  the  north,  the  Rockij  mountains.  Its  whole  course  is 
considerably  west  of  north.  Its  average  distance  from  the  Pacific 
©cean,  in  South-America,  is  150  miles, 

Andes.  Chiniborazo  is  said  to  be  the  highest  summit  in  the 
•whole  range.  It  is  about  100  miles  south  of  Quito.  Its  height  is 
20,584  feet,  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  about  5000  feet  higher  than 
Mont  Blanc. 

Throughout  their  whole  extent,  in  South- America,  the  chain  is 
every  where  broken  and  interrupted  by  crevices,  like  open  fur* 
rows ;  and  the  plains  on  the  ridge  are  of  small  extent.  These 
plains,  hov/evcr,  are  often  of  an  immense  height.  Several  in  the 
province  of  Quito  are  from  5000  to  6000  feet ;  that  on  which  the 
city  of  Santa  Fe  de  Bogota  is  built,  is  8413  ;  that  of  Caxamarea,  in 
Peru,  9021  feet;  and  that  of  Antisana,  13,451  feet.* 

According  to  Humboldt,  there  are  three  remarkable  chains  con* 
nected  with  the  Andes,  and  proceeding  from  them  fi'om  west  to 
east:  \X\q  northern.,  or  that  of  Vene.'iuela  ;  the  middle.^  or  that  of 
Parima  ;  and  the  southern.,  or  that  of  Chiquitos. 

Parallel  with  these  three  great  ranges  there  are,  according  to 
Humboldt,  three  very  extensive  vallies;  that  of  the  Oronoco,  that 
of  the  Amazon,  and  the  Pampas  of  Paraguay,  all  opening  on  the 
east,  but  shut  on  the  west  by  the  Andes.  The  valley  of  the  Ama- 
zon, which  lies  betv/een  the  middle  and  southern  ranges,  is  cover- 
ed with  fovesls,  so  thick  that  the  rivers  alone  form  roads;  while 
that  of  the  Oronoco  and  the  Pampas  are  savannahs,  or  grassy  plains, 
ivith  a  few  scattered  palms.  The  Pampas  extend  from  lat.  19°  to 
52°  S. 

CoEDiLLERAS  o?  Mexico.  The  construction  of  this  chain  is 
very  different  from  that  of  the  South-American  Andes,  and  from 
most  other  mountains.  The  .ridge  of  the  mountains  forms  a  plain, 
on  which  carriages  pass  as  far  as  Santa  Fe,  in  New-Mexico,  a  dis- 
tance of  more  than  1700  miles.  This  plain  extends  from  18°  to  40°, 
and  is  there  said  to  decline  insensibly  towards  the  north.  The  as- 
cent of  this  plain  from  cither  ocean  is  gradual,  and  its  elevation  is 
from  6000  to  8000  feet  above  tlie  level  of  the  sea.  The  highest 
summit  in  the  Coiuillcra  is  Popocatepetl,  a  volcano,  in  lat.  18  3^ 
N.  and  long.  98   33  W.  17.716  feet. 

*»  Huraboldtj  I,  38—41. 


NORTH-AMERICA.  71 

The  remainder  of  this  western  range,  extending  north  of  the 
Cordilleras,  is  called  the  Rocky  Mountains,  of  which  nothing  vc^ 
ry  remarkable  is  known. 

Mountains  of  California.  On  the  peninsula  of  California 
is  a  range  of  mountains,  which  in  one  part  rises,  according  to  La 
Peyrouse,  to  a  height  of  more  than  10,000  feet.  Mount  Elias,  the 
highest  in  the  chain,  is,  according  to  the  Spanish  navigators,  who 
measured  it  with  great  care,  17,873  feet  in  height,  above  the  level 
of  the  neighbouring  ocean.'*     It  is  visible  60  leagues  off  at  sea. 


NORTH-AMERICA. 

Extmt.  NORTH-AMERICA  is  separated  from  South,  by  aii 
imaginary  line,  crossing  the  western  extremity  of  the  isthmus  of 
Manama,  and  dividing  the  jurisdictions  of  Darien  and  Veragua.  Its 
most  southern  parallel  is  7  30  north.  It  extends  north  to  the  Arc- 
tic ocean,  between  lat.  7  30  and  82°  N.  and  between  Ion.  4°  and 
168°  VV.  of  Greenwich.  Its  greatest  length,  from  north  to  south, 
is  5  i78  miles  ;  ant!  its  breadth,  from  the  promontory  of  Alaska,  to 
the  eastern  coast  of  Labrador,  is  4570. 

History  of  Settlements.  1521.  Mexico,  the  most  powerful  king- 
dom in  North-America,  was  fust  subdued.  Cortes,  at  the  head  of 
617  Spaniards,  commenced  the  conquest  in  15  19,  and  completed  it 
in  about  two  years.     Ever  since  it  has  belonged  to  the  Spaniards. 

1539.  An  attempt  was  made  by  Ferdinand  de  Soto,  governor  olf 
Cuba,  to  settle  Florida. 

1607.  Canada  was  settled,  and  Quebec  fortified,  by  a  colony  of 
Frenchmen,  under  the  command  of  De  Mons. 

The  same  year  two  ships,  with  100  men,  under  the  command  of 
George  Popham  and  Raleigh  Gilbert,  sailed  to  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Kennebec,  and  began  a  settlement.  They  built  a  fort  on  the 
peninsula,  called  fort  St.  George. 

The  same  year  a  settlement  was  begun  at  Jamestown  in  Virgirt.' 
ia,  UTider  the  direction  of  capt.  Nev.'port  and  Mr.  Edward  Wing- 
field. 

1610.  Conception  Bay,  on  the  island  of  Newfoundland,  was  set- 
tled by  40  English  planters  under  John  Guy. 

1620,  Plymouth  in  Massachusetts  was  settled  by  101  persons,  a 
part  of  Mr.  Robinson's  congregation,  under  Messrs.  Carver,  Brad- 
ford, Winsiow,  Standish,  Sec. 

1623.  An  English  colony  was  planted  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pis- 
Cataqiia,  by  capt.  John  Mason. 

1627.  A  colony  of  Swedes  and  Finns  landed  at  cape  Hcnlopen, 
and  made  settlements  on  both  sides  of  Delaware  bay  and  river  in 
Delaware,  New-Jersey,  and  Pennsylvania. 

1628.  Capt.  John  Endicot,  with  his  wife  and  company,  settled 
Salem  in  Massachusetts.  A  part  of  the  company,  the  same  year, 
settled  Gharlestown,     Two  years  after,  Boston  was  settied. 

*  Humboldt,  I.  48, 


n  NORTH-AMERICA. 

1629.  The  island  of  Manhattan  was  settled  by  the  t)utch,  unde^ 
the  direction  of  t^overnor  Van  Twiller. 

1634.  Maryland  was  settled  by  a  colony  of  English  Roman  Cath- 
olics, undei"  the  guidance  of  lord  Baltimore. 

-  1635.  Two  settlements  were  made  in  Connecticut,  at  Windsov 
and  Hartford,  by  a  colony  from  Boston  and  vicinity  ;  and  at  Say- 
brook,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Fenwick. 

The  same  year  Rhode  Island  was  settled  by  Mr.  Roger  Will- 
iams,  with  a  colony  of  malecontents  from  Massachusetts. 

1669.  South -Carolina  was  settled  by  an  English  colony,  under 
governor  Sayley 

1682.  William  Penn  founded  the  colony  of  Pennsylvania.  He 
and  his  adherents  belonged  to  the  society  of  Friends. 

1728.  Nonh-Carolina  was  erected  into  a  separate  govermnenf. 

1732.  Georgia  was  settled  by  an  English  colony  under  general 
Oglethorpe. 

1764.  Vermont  was  settled  by  emigrants  from  Connecticut  and 
Massachusetts. 

1773.  Kentucky  was  settled  by  a  party  under  col.  Daniel  Boon. 

1789.  Tennessee  became  a  separate  government. 

1800.  The  Missisippi  Territory  was  made  a  separate  govern- 
ment. 

1803.  Ohio  was  erected  into  a  state. 

1811.  The  territory  of  Orleans  was  admitted  into  the  number  of 
the  states  of  the  union,  and  called  Louisiana. 

Political  Divisions.  North-America  may  be  considered  under  the 
following  divisions,  i?M.5.sic«  .'imertca-,  Danish  ./America,  British  Pos- 
&essio77s,  United  States,  Sfianish  Proviiices-,  and  ^'Iboriginal  .America. 

Russian  America^  comprehending  the  island  of  Spitzbergen,  on 
the  east ;  and  the  promontory  of  Alaska,  the  islands  which  are 
tiear  it,  and  the  coast  between  Portlock  harbor  and  Behring's 
straits,  on  the  west. 

Danish  America  comprising  the  island  of  Iceland,  and  the  coun- 
try of  Greenland. 

The  British  Possessions  in  North-America  are  the  following, 
New-Britain  Newfoundland  Isl.       Cape  Breton  Island 

Upper  Canada  New-Brunswick  St.  John's  Island 

Lower  Canada  Nova-Scotia 

The  United  States 'dwd  their  territories,  viz. 
District  of  Maine         Pennsylvania  North-Carolina 

New-Hampshire  Michigan  Territory     Tennessee 

Vermont  Ohio  ""  South- Carolina 

Massachusetts  Proper  Illinois  Territory         Georgia 
Rhode  Island  Indiana  Territory         Missisippi  Territory 

Connecticut  Maryland  Louisiana  State 

New-York  District  of  Columbia  Louisiana  Territory 

New-Jersey  Virginia 

Delaware  Kentucky 

Spanish  America^  embracing 
East-Florida  New-Mexico  Old-Mexico 

West-Florida  California 


3>  OrctdVtl  Jirf,  T,„     ' 

lamm- —    ' iiMiiilr- —  {""niiumi 


I'lii'b,),,^/  h  n 


SPITZBERGEN.  72 

Aboriginal  America  includes  the  territories  lyin£^  north  of  New- 
Mexico  and  Louisiaaa,  west  of  the  British  possessions,  and  east  o£ 
the  Russian. 

These  will  be  described  in  the  order  they  have  been  named. 


RUSSL\N  AMERICA. 


SPITZBERGEN. 

Situation  and  Extent.  SPITZBERGEN"  consists  of  one  large 
island  and  numerous  smaller  ones  oa  its  coast.  They  lie  in  the 
Frozen  ocean,  150  miles  east  of  Greenlaiid.  The  main  island  is 
between  lat  76°  and  80  7  N.  and  between  Ion.  9°  and  zO°  Jt,.  300 
miles  long,  140  bread. 

Discox'ery.  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby  discovered  Spitzbergen  ia 
1553.     In  i77a,  capt.  Phipps  determined  it  to  be  an  island. 

Climate  and  Seaaotis.  Tlie  longest  day,  and  of  course  the  long- 
est night,  in  Spitzbergen  is  between  4  and  5  months.  Duiing  the 
continuance  of  its  night,  from  the  latter  part  of  October,  to  the  be- 
ginning of  February,  the  weather  is  so  intensely  cold,  as  to  render 
the  country  almost  uninhabitable. 

Face  of  the  Country.  These  islands  have  never  been  explorcd- 
The  coasts,  in  most  places,  are  inaccessible.  Tliey  are  formed  of 
high,  barren,  black  rocks,  without  the  least  mark  of  vegetation  ;  in 
many  places  bare  and  pointed  ;  in  others  covered  with  snow. 

Harbora.  Sclimelrenburg  harbor  lies  on  the  western  side,  in  lat. 
79  44  N.  Ion.  9  51  E.  It  is  well  sheltered  from  all  winds,  is  13 
fathoms  deep,  and  has  a  sandy  bottom.  Magdultn  Bay  and  Ham- 
burger\'i  Bay  lie  also  on  the  west  side.  On  the  northern  shore  is 
the  harbor  of  Vogel  Sung. 

Mountains.  There  are  many  summits  on  the  island,  but  none  of 
very  great  height.  In  the  surrounding  ocean  there  are  also  many- 
mountains  of  zee.     Sonic  of  them  rise  1500  feet  out  of  the  water. 

General  Remarks.  Spitzbergen,  when  first  discovered,  was  en- 
tirely destitute  of  inhabitants  ;  nor  were  any  found  on  it  by  the  En- 
glish, when  they  visited  it  in  1773.  It  is,  however,  the  constant  re- 
sort of  the  Dutch  whalers,  and  20  or  30  sail  visit  it  every  summer. 
Every  year,  also,  a  ship  goes  from  Archangel  to  winter  on  the 
western  coast.  At  this  lime  it  is  uninhabited.*  The  extreme  se- 
verity of  its  climate,  the  barrenness  of  its  soil,  its  distance  from  the 
track  of  commerce,  and  the  impossibility  of  visiting  it  during  two 
thirds  of  every  year,  will  forever  render  it,  what  it  was  obviously  in- 
tended to  be,  a  mere  resting  place  for  fishermen. 

*  Tooke's  Russian  Empire,  iii.  92. 
10 


SPITZBERGEN.  73 

Aboriginal  ./imerica  includes  the  territories  lyin^  north  of  New- 
Mexico  aad  Louisiaaa,  west  of  the  British  possessions,  and  east  of 
the  Russian. 

These  will  be  described  in  the  order  they  have  been  named. 


RUSSIAN  AMERICA. 


SPITZBERGEN. 

Situation  and  Extent,  SPITZBERQEM  consists  of  one  large 
island  and  numerous  smaller  ones  oa  its  coast.  They  lie  in  the 
Frozen  ocean,  150  miles  east  of  Greenland.  The  main  island  is 
between  iat  76°  and  80  7  N.  and  between  Ion.  9°  and  ^0°  t..  300 
miles  long,  140  braad. 

Discovery.  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby  discovered  Spitzbergen  in 
1553.     In  1 773,  capt.  Phipps  determined  it  to  be  an  island. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  Tiie  longest  day,  and  of  course  the  long- 
est night,  in  Spilzbc;rgen  is  between  4  and  5  months.  During  the 
continuance  of  its  night,  from  the  latter  part  of  October,  to  the  be- 
ginning of  February,  the  weather  is  so  intensely  coid,  as  to  render 
the  country  almost  uninhabitable. 

Face  of  the  Country.  These  islands  have  never  been  explorcd- 
The  coasts,  in  most  places,  are  inaccessible.  They  are  formed  of 
high,  barren,  black  rocks,  without  the  least  mark  of  vegetation  ;  in 
many  places  bare  and  pointed  ;  in  others  covered  with  snow. 

Harbors.  Schmelrenburir  harbor  lies  on  the  western  side,  in  lat. 
79  44  N.  Ion.  9  51  E.  It  is  well  sheltered  from  all  winds,  is  13 
fatlioms  deep,  and  has  a  sandy  bottom.  Magdultn  Bay  and  Ham- 
burger^H  Bay  lie  also  on  the  west  side.  On  the  northern  shore  is 
the  harbor  of  Vogel  Sang. 

Mountains.  There  are  many  summits  on  the  island,  but  none  of 
very  great  height.  In  the  surrounding  ocean  there  are  also  many 
mountains  of  ice.     Sonie  of  them  rise  i  500  feet  out  of  the  water. 

General  Remar/cs.  Spitzbergen,  when  first  discovered,  was  en- 
tirely destitute  of  inhabitants  ;  nor  were  any  found  on  it  by  the  En- 
glish, when  they  visited  it  in  1773.  It  is,  however,  the  constant  re- 
sort of  the  Dutch  whalers,  and  20  or  30  sail  visit  it  every  summer. 
Every  year,  also,  a  ship  goes  from  Archangel  to  winter  on  the 
western  coast.  At  this  time  it  is  uninhabited.*  The  extreme  se- 
verity of  its  Climate,  the  barrenness  of  its  soil,  its  distance  from  the 
track  of  commerce,  and  the  impossibility  of  visitmg  it  during  two 
thirds  of  every  year,  will  forever  render  it,  what  it  was  obviously  in- 
tended to  be,  a  mere  resting  place  for  fishermen. 

*  Tooke's  Russiaa  Empire,  iii,  92. 
10 


74  NORTHWEST  COAST. 


NORTHWEST  COAST. 

Extent.  THE  most  southern  settlement  of  the  Russians  is  at 
Portlock  harbor,  between  58°  and  59°  N.  They  claim,  by  right  of 
discovery,  the  whole  coast  from  this  station  northward,  as  far  as 
cape  Prince  of  Wales,  comprising  not  less  than  2500  miles  of  sea- 
coast  ;  together  with  the  numberless  islands,  which  line  the  shore, 
and  the  long  chain  of  islands,  which  reaches  from  the  promontory 
of  Alaska  almost  to  the  coast  of  Kamtsciiatka. 

Islands.  The  principal  of  these  isles,  are  the  ylleutian  or  Fox 
islands,  which  lie  in  a  curve  line  southwest  of  Alaska.  The  vvest- 
ternmost,  Attoo,  about  300  miles  from  Kamtschatka,  is  about  40 
iniles  long.  Unalaska,  120  miles  long,  is  the  most  important  of  all 
these  islands  It  has  on  the  N.  E.  side  3  large  good  harbors.  It 
contains  two  volcanoes,  near  one  of  which  is  a  copious  hot  spring. 

The  inhabitants  of  these  islands  are  of  a  middle  stature,  of  tawny 
brown  colour,  with  black  hair.  They  are  tributaries  to  the  Rus- 
sians, and  tiieir  principal  employment  is  hunting  for  Russian  ad- 
venturers ;  who  pay  them  in  beads  and  tobacco.  The  whole  num- 
ber of  inhabitants  in  the  Aleutian  islands  is  estimated  by  Mr.  Sauer 
at  2500. 

From  Alaska  eastward,  the  whole  coast  is  lined  with  islnnds. 
The  principal  of  these  is  Kodiak.,  about  150  miles  long,  and  70 
broad.  The  inhabitants  are  called  Kinaghi.  In  their  mode  of  life 
they  very  much  resemble  the  Aleutians.  They  often  live  to  the 
advanced  age  of  100  years.  They  are  ai)out  5000  in  number.  They 
speak  the  same  language  with  that  spoken  on  the  American  coast,* 
between  Kodiak  and  Portlock  harbor;  though  in  most  of  its  words 
different  from  the  Aleutian.  The  men  are  all  employed  by  the 
Russians  in  hunting  and  fishing,  and  the  women  in  curing  the  fish 
and  drying  the  skins.     They  pay  tribute  to  Russia. 

The  Coast.  The  natives  on  tlse  coast,  from  z\]aska  to  Portlock 
liarbor,  are  very  numerous.  According  to  Shelikoif's  narrative,  not 
less  than  50,000  had,  in  1784,  professed  obedience  to  the  Russian 
governmcnt.f  The  Indians  farther  north  appear  still  to  be  inde- 
pendent. 

FusHian  Settlements.  The  principal  of  these  is  on  the  south- 
eastern side  of  Kodiak,  made  in  1784.  Other  establishments  are  at 
at  Unalaska,  on  the  island  of  Afagnack,  and  on  the  coast,  at  Cook's 
inlet,  cape  St.  Elias,  port  Etches,  port  Mulgrave,  and  Portlock  har- 
bor. In  all  these  settlements,  according  to  Hassel,  there  are  about 
800  inhabitants. 

Discoveries.  Cook,  in  a  single  voyage,  did  more  to  discover 
these  regions  than  all  his  prectecessors  had  done  in  50  years.  He 
a«'.cert:iintd  the  line  of  the  American  coast,  and  the  vicinity  of  the 
continents  ;  and  traced  the  eastern  coast  of  Asia  as  high  as  68°, 
ar.d  the  -western  coast  of  America  as  high  as  71°  N.  latitude. 

*  Sauer's  Expedition,  p.  191. 

f  Coxe's  Russian  Discoveries,  285, 


DANISH  AMERICA.  7S 


DANISH  AMERICA. 

DENMARK  once  ewned  three  of  the  West-India  islands ;  but 
tht  sc  iiave  lattiy  been  wrested  trom  her,  and  she  now  claims  on  the 
western  continent  only  Iceland  and  Greenland. 


ICELAND, 

Situation  and  Extent.  ICELAND  is  an  island,  situated  120 
miles  E.  oi  Greenland,  and  700  W.  of  Norway  ;  between  lat.  63* 
and  67°  N.  and  between  Ion.  13°  and  28°  W.  Its  length  from  east 
to  west  is  400  miles,  and  its  breadth  270.* 

Historical  Epochs.  861.  Discovered  by  Nardoddr,  as  he  was 
driven  out  of  his  course  by  the  winds,  on  his  return  from  Norway 
to  Fcrro. 

878.  Settled  by  a  colony  of  Norwegians  under  Ingolfz  ;  and  in 
60  years  time  the  whole  island  was  inhabited. 

1  120.  Iceland  was  converted  about  this  lime  to  the  Christian  re^^ ' 
ligion,  after  the  exertions  of  240  years. 

1261.  The  island  became  subject  to  Hakans,  king  of  Norway. 

1363.  With  Norway  it  was  subjected  to  Denmark,  and  has  ever 
since  been  a  colony  of  that  government. 

lieligio7i.  The  Lutheran  is  the  present  religion  of  Iceland.  It 
was  introduced  in  1551.  Its  chuicli  enjoys  a  happy  traiiquillity. 
It  composes  two  sees  ;  that  of  Skalholt,  containing  127  pansuts  j 
and  that  of  Hoolum,  containing  62.  All  the  ministers  are  native 
Icelanders,  and  receive  a  yearly  salary  of  400  or  5uO  rix  dollars 
from  the  king,  exclusive  of  what  tiiey  have  from  their  congrega- 
tions. 

Government.  The  governor,  who  is  appointed  by  the  crown  of 
Denmark,  resides  at  Bcssested,  lat.  64  6  north.  Ion.  22  56  west. 
His  power  is  not  very  great. 

P'jjiulation.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  60,000.  At  the  be-'' 
ginning  of  the   15th  centvuy  they  were  far  more  numerous. 

Revenue.  Iceland  yields  an  annual  revenue  to  the  Danish  mon«- 
arch  of  about  30,000  crowns. 

Character  and  Manners.  The  ancient  Icelanders  lived  by  war, 
piracy,  and  the  chace.  The  introduction  of  Christianity  and  the  loss 
of  their  independence  pi-oduced  a  great  change  in  their  character 
and  mode  of  living. 

They  are  middle-sized,  well  made,  though  not  very  strong,  and 
generally  ill  featured.  Their  poverty  does  not  prevent  them  trora 
being  unusually  hospitable.  They  are  obliging  and  iaithful,  sub- 
missive to  government,  zealous  in  their  religion,  and  warndy  at- 
tached to  tlieir  native  country.  They  are  not  very  industrious  ; 
are  fond  of  amusements  ;    particularly  of  athletic  diversions  j    of 

•  Von  Troii,  Let,  III, 


76  ICELAND. 

games  of  chance,  in  which,  however,  they  never  play  for  money  j 
and  of  visiting  each  other  for  the  purpose  of  reading  and  reciting 
the  history  of  Iceland. 

Those  who  live  on  the  coasts,  are  employed  principally  in  fish- 
ing ;  those,  who  live  in  the  interior,  in  the  care  of  their  cattle.  Few 
of  them  outlive  60.  The  prevailing  diseases  are  the  scurvy,  gout, 
St.  Anthony's  fire,  jaundice,  fevers,  pleurisy,  and  lowncss  of  spirits. 
Language.  The  Icelandic  language  is  tie  same  with  that,  wliich 
was  formerly  spoken  in  Sweden,  Denmark,  and  Norway.  The 
Danish  is  also  usually  spoken  by  those  v/ho  live  on  the  coast. 

Literature.  While  the  traces  of  literature  were  destroyed,  in 
the  north  of  Europe  they  were  caiefully  preserved  in  Iceland. 
Poetry  flouiished  long  belore  the  introduction  of  the  Roii>hi>  letters, 
and  seven  of  the  early  poets,  of  SA-alds,  have  survived  the  fliglu  of 
eight  centuiies.  The  list  ot  their  poets,  who  have  lived  sin^  e  that 
pericd,  contains  no  less  than  240.  Their  language  is  peculiarly 
rich  in  poetical  expressions.  The  nunibtr  of  their  historians  and 
writers  of  annals  is  also  very  great.  The  period  when  literature 
most  flourished  in  Iceland,  was  between  1 120  and  1350.  At  pres- 
ent, they  are  far  from  being  an  ignorant  people.  The  peasants, 
^11  of  them,  can  read  ;  and,  beside  being  well  inst)  ucti  d  in  the  piin- 
ciples  of  their  religion,  they  are  also  acciuainted  with  the  history 
of  their  country  ;  and  many  of  them  can  repeat  irom  memory  the 
finest  passages  of  their  poetb.  Pinning  was  introduced  into  the 
island  in  1530,  arid  many  valuable  editions  have  proceeded  from 
the  Icelandic  press. 

Cities  and  Tctv7is.  The  principal  towns  of  Iceland  are  Skalholt, 
"Hoolum,  Thingvalla,  Bessested,  and  Patrixhord.  The  two  last  are 
seaports.  The  greater  part  of  the  h)habiiants  live  on  scattered 
farms      The  coast  is  however  thickly  settled. 

Manufactures  and  Commerce.  The  men  manufacture  leather, 
■work  at  several  mechanical  trades,  and  a  few  in  gold  and  silver. 
The  women  sew,  and  spin,  and  make  coarse  black  cloth.  There 
is  a  woollen  manuiactory  at  Rcikavik- 

The  trade  of  Iceland  since  1734  has  been  in  the  hands  of  a  com- 
pany, which  pay  6000  dollars  annually.  This  cpmpany  sends  to 
Iceland  about  30  ships  every  year,  loaded  with  corn,  bread,  wincj 
iron,  and  wood  ;  and  carries  away  fish,  flesh,  butter,  blubber  oil, 
skins,  wool,  woollen  cloths,  and  not  less  than  2000lbs.  eider  down. 
Climate  and  Seasons.  The  climate  is  not  unwholesome,  as  the 
Tisual  heat  is  not  extreme,  nor  the  cold  in  general  very  rigor(;U£.. 
The  thermometer  has  been  known  however  to  rise  to  104°  ol  Fah- 
renheit; and,  in  the  winter  of  1753,  54,  the  cold,  occasioned  by  the 
ice  in  the  surroundh)g  occtin,  was  so  intense,  that  horses  and  sheep 
dropped  down  dead  on  account  of  it. 

J'ace  of  the  Country.  The  surface  principally  consists  of 
Tidges  of  mouniains'ancl  barren  rocks.  The  mountains  are  many 
of  them  covered  whh  eternal  snows;  tiey  cross  the  country  iii 
every  direction  and  render  the  greater  part  of  it  incapable  of  culti- 
yation. 

^02/  and  Jp-.iculture.     The  husbandry  of  the  Icelanders  is  con- 


GREENLAND.  Yf 

fined  to  the  raising  of  cattle,  slurp,  and  horses.  Corn  will  not 
eiow.  The  inland  parts  of  the  iblaiidb  do  not  lie  waste.  One  finds 
every  Avlierc,  at  little  distances,  farms  cunsisling  almost  wholly  of 
meadow  land. 

Alountains.  The  mountains,  one  of  which  is  elevated  6861  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  another  6000,  are  generally  volcanic  ;  and  the 
number  of  euipiions  have  been  prodigiously  great.  Mount  Heckla 
is  in  the  southern  part  of  the  island,  25  miles  from  the  seacoast.  Its 
height  is  5000  feet.  Duihig  its  eruptions,  ashes  and  stones  are  said 
to  be  often  thrown  to  the  distance  of  150  milts.  The  lava  thrown 
out  in  the  eruptions  of  this  and  the  other  mountaijis  is  often  suffi- 
cient to  cover  many  miles  of  country,  and  to  destroy  many  farms 
and  villages. 


GREENLAND. 

Situation  and  Extent.  CAPE  Farewell,  the  southern  extremity 
of  Greenland,  is  in  lat.  59  38  north,  and  in  Ion.  42  45  west.  How 
far  the  country  reaches  north  has  never  been  ascertained.  It  is 
known  to  extend  fartlicr  than  lat.  "8°  N.  It  is  bounded  on  the  W. 
by  what  is  <  ailed  Baffin's  bay  and  Davis's  straits,  which  separate  ic 
from  Labrador. 

Original  Population.  The  natives  of  Greenland  are  Esquimaux, 
the  same  people  who  inhabit  Labrador,  and  the  northern  coast  of 
America,  as  far  as  M'^Kenzie's  river,  and  probably  to  the  western 
extremity  of  the  continent. 

Historical  Epochs.  982.  Greenland  was  discovered  by  the  Nor- 
"wegiars,  who  planted  a  colony  there.  'J'his  colony  was  scattered 
over  botli  ti^e  eastern  and  western  coasts.  Those  in  the  west  are 
said,  about  that  time,  to  have  been  exterminated  by  the  natives. 
"What  became  of  the  eastern  colonists  is  not  known.  It  is  conjec- 
tured that  the  descendants  of  the  eastern  colony  are  still  living. 

1576.  An  attempt  was  made  by  the  English,  under  admiral 
Frobisher,  to  settle  the  countiy. 

1712.  The  Gretnland  company  at  Bergen,  in  Norway,  trans- 
ported a  colony  to  the  western  coast,  in  lat.  64°  north.  The  rev- 
erend Harjs  Egede  accompanied  them,  as  their  minister.  To  him 
we  are  indebted  for  the  best  account  of  modern  Greenland.  He 
made  several  attempts  to  explore  the  eastern  coast,  but  could  not 
reach  it. 

Religion.  The  Danes  and  Norwegians  are  Lutherans.  The 
Aborigines  are  Pagans,  except  a  number  in  the  south,  around  New- 
Herrnhut,  and  Lichtenfels,  whom  the  Moravian  missionaries  have 
been  instrumental  in  converting  to  Cliristianity. 

Population.  The  colony  from  Norway  occupy  the  western 
coast  from  lat.  64°  to  68°  north.  They  are  believed  to  am.ount  to 
from  7000  to  10.000.  It  is  impossible  to  ascertain  the  number  of 
the  natives.  They  are  said  to  have  an)ounted  in  1733  to  30,000, 
'.vhen  the  smallpox  destroyed  great  numbers  of  them.     In  1746, 


78      BRITISH  PROVINCES  IN  NORTH-AMERICA. 

their  numbers  were  estimuted  by  a  factor  who  resided  here  40  years, 
at  20,000. 

Fishery.  Greenland  is  valuable  principally  on  account  of  its 
fisherits.  In  1785  Great-Britain  empioyeu  133  ships  in  this  fish- 
ery, and  the  Dutch  65. 

Character  and  Manners.  The  natives,  in  their  appearai^ce,  rcr 
sembie  the  Laplanders.  They  are  vigoious  and  hcaltiiy  ;  but 
short-lived  ;  very  quiet,  orderly,  and  good-natured.  Ihcy  are  ex- 
tremely filthy  in  their  mode  of  living.  Their  whole  business  is 
ipshing  and  hunting. 

Toivns.  There  is  a  Danish  settlement  called  Good  Hope,  in  lat. 
64°,  and  another  in  Disco  bay,  called  Disco,  not  far  honi  68°. 
New-HeiTnhut,  Lichtenfels,  and  Lichtenau  are  the  principal  Mor 
javian  establishments.  These  places  are  the  residence  of  the  INIo- 
ravian  missionaries.  The  native  inhabitants  around  the  two  fiist 
of  these  places  have  all  been  baptised,  so  that  no  trace  of  paganisn^ 
is  now  left  in  that  neighbourhood.* 

Climate,  Seasons,  Face  of'  the  Country.  Summer  continuesfrom 
the  last  of  May  to  the  middle  of  September.  The  sea  coasts  are 
often  infested  with  fogs,  that  are  alike  disagreeable  and  unhealthy. 
Near  the  shore  the  low  lands  are  clothed  with  verdure  ;  but  the 
inland  j-nountains  are  perpetually  covered  with  snow.  Above  lat. 
68°,  the  cold  is  prodigiously  intense  ;  and,  towards  the  end  of  Au- 
gust, the  whole  coast  is  covered  with  ice,  which  lasts  till  May. 
Gi  eenland  is  generally  mountainous.  The  mountains  are  barren. 
Some  of  them  are  visible  4©  leagues  at  sea. 


BRITISH  PROVINCES  IN  MOKTH- AMERICA, 

Extent.  BRITISH  North-America  includes  the  vast  extent  of 
country,  bounded  S.  by  the  United  States  ;  E.  partly  by  the  Atlan- 
tic and  Davis's  straits,  and  partly  by  Hudson  bay;  N.  partly  by 
Hudson  straits  and  bay,  and,  westward  of  that  bay,  by  unexplored 
rec,ions  ;  W.  by  the  territories  occupied  by  the  Chipewyans  and 
the  Kijisteneaux.  The  islands  of  Newfoundland,  Cape  Breton,  St. 
John's,  and  several  smaller  islands  in  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  be- 
long also  to  the  British. 

Potiulation.  The  population  of  these  various  territories,  from 
the  best  estimate  that  can  be  made,  amounts  to  about  400,000  or 
420,000  souls. 

FoliticaL  Divisions.  The  countries  which  compose  British 
North-America  are  the  following,  viz. 

New-Britain  Upper  Canada  Cape  Breton  Isl. 

Lower  Canada  Nova-Scotia  St.  John's  Isl. 

Newfoundland  Isl.  New-Brunswick 

These  eight  territories  are  reduced  to  six  separate  independent 
provinces  or  governments. 

w  '-*  Periodical  account  of  the  brethren,  180i> 


NEW-BRITIAN.  S§ 

I.  Lower  Canada,  which  comprises  New-Britain,  Lower  Cana- 
da, properly  so  called,  and  Newfoundland. 

II.  Unper  Canada. 

III.  Nova-Scoiia. 

IV.  New-Brunswick. 

V.  Cape  Bieion. 

VI.  St.  Joiin's. 

The  four  fii-gt  of  these  provinces  have  their  own  legislatures,  aifd 
are  governed  by  their  own  laws  ;  the  two  last  by  the  laws  of  Eng- 
land. 

Tiie  governoT  general  of  British  America  usually  resides  at 
Quebec,  in  Lovver  Canada.  He  is  governor,  for  the  time  being,  of 
th.it  one  of  the  six  provinces  in  which  he  happens  to  be  personally: 
present. 

The  governor  general  of  Nova-Scotia,  is  governor,  for  the  time 
bein  r.  of  that  one  of  the  four  last  mentioned  provinces  in  which  he 
happens  to  be  personally  present.  He  usually  resides  at  Halifax, 
ill  Nova-Scotia. 

Eacli  province  has  its  own  lieutenant  governor,  who  acts  as  gov- 
ernor in  the  absence  of  the  governor  generals. 


NEW-BRITAIN. 

Extent.)  Dtvisionsy  and  Inhabitants.  THIS  extensive  country 
comprises  three  distinct  territories  ; 

1.  Labrador,  or  the  country  east  of  Hudson  bay  ; 

2.  New-South-Wales,  or  the  country  lying  southwest  and  west 
of  James  bay ; 

3.  New-North-Wales,  or  the  country  lying  north  of  the  pre- 
ceding. 

The  whole  country  may  be  considered  as  reaching  from  lat.  50® 
to  53*  N.  and  from  Ion.  56°  to  1  K)  30  W.  Its  length  is  not  less 
than  1800  xTiiles,  from  E.  to  W.  its  breadth  is  about  850.  Labrador 
is  850  miles  long,  from  N.  to  S.  and  750  broad. 

The  Esquimaux  Indians  occupy  the  whole  peninsula  of  Green- 
land, the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  the  whole  northern  coast  of  Amer- 
ica.    They  are  universally  believed  to  be  of  European  origin. 

Religion.  The  great  body  of  the  inhabitants  in  these  extensive 
and  dreary  regions  are  Pagans.  The  Moravians  have  missionaries 
stationed  at  Okkak,  Nain,  and  Hopedale,  where,  from  accounts  as 
late  as  1805,  it  appears,  that  they  are  laboring  with  increasing  suc- 
cess. 

Pofiulalion.  At  the  forts  there  are  small  detachments  of  Britisli 
troops  ;  at  Nain,  Okkak,  and  Hopedale,  on  the  N.  E.  coast  of  Lab- 
rador, there  are  small  settlements  established  by  the  Moravians. 
The  country  of  the  Knisteneaux  is  thinly,  and  that  of  the  Esqui- 
maux still  more  thinly,  peopled. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  country  north  of  Churchill  river,  is 
»  flat  country,  and  has  received  the  name  «-)f  the  Barren  Grounds- 


go  LOWER  CANADA. 

The  country  south  of  that  river  is  level,  also  ;  but  generally  wood- 
ed with  pines,  birch,  larch,  and  willows. 

Both  the  eastern  and  western  coasts  of  Labrador  are  bordered 
with  innumerable  islands.  The  country  is  every  where  uneven, 
rocky,  or  mountainous.  The  mountains  are  freque,ntly  very  lofty, 
and  almost  devoid  of  every  species  of  herbage.  The  vallies  are 
sandy  and  unproductive. 

Rivers.  These  are  the  Churchill,  or  Missinipi,  whose  general 
direction  is  about  E.  N.  E.  its  len;jth  about  750  miles ;  the  Severn, 
Albany,  and  Moose  rivers. 

The  rivers  of  Labrador  are  generally  small. 

Lakes.  West  of  Hudson  bay  lie  numerous  lakes  discovered 
by  Mr.  Hearne.  The  largest  are  Doobauut  lake,  Yath-Kyed  lake, 
stnd  North-lined  lake. 


LOWER  CANADA. 

kxtent.  LOWER  CANADA  lies  between  61°  and  71°  W.  Ion, 
and  between  45°  and  52°  N.  Uu.  Its  greatest  length  from  E.  to  W  is 
800  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  about  450  miles  ;  the  average 
breadth  is  250. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  New-Britain  ;  E.  by  New-Britain 
and  the  gulf  of  St  Lawrence  ;  S.  Ijy  New-Brunswick,  Maine,  New- 
Hampshire,  Vermont,  New-York  and  Upper  Canada  ;  W.  by  Up- 
per Canada. 

Divisions.  This  province  is  divided  into  21  counties,  which  are 
subdivided  into  ])arishes. 

Historical  E/iochs.  1497.  Discovered  by  John  Cabot,  a  Vene- 
tian, in  the  service  of  the  English. 

1608.  Champlain  sailed  up  the  St.  Lawrence  as  far  as  a  strait, 
called, by  the  Indians,  Quebec,  where,  on  the  3d  of  July,  he  began  to 
build,  and  here  he  passed  the  following  winter.  At  this  time  the 
settlement  of  Canada  commeiiccd. 

1759.  Sept.  13.  An  English  army,  under  gen.  Wolfe,  made  a 
successful  attack  on  Quebec,  whicli  surrendered  on  the  1 8th. 

1760.  The  whole  i)rovii>ce  of  Cannda  surrendered  to  gen.  Am- 
herst, and  was  con  firmed  to  Great  Biitain  by  t!ic  treaty  of  1763, 
under  v/bose  dominion  it  has  since  coininued. 

1775.  Canada  was  invaded  by  a  body  of  provincial  troops  under 
gen.  Montgomery  ;  Montreal  was  taken,  and  an  unsuccessful  at- 
tempt made  upon  Quebec,  in  which  the  general  was  slain  and  his 
troops  routed. 

1778.*  An  act  was  pissed  by  the  parliament  of  Great  Britain,  ex- 
pressly restraining  itself  forever,  from  iuiposing  any  taxes  or  duties 
m  the  colonics,  except  for  the  regulation  of  trade,  the  produce  of 
which  taxes,  or  duties  to  be  diposcd  of  by  the  provincial  assem- 
blies. 

*  In  the  18th  year  of  George  IJf. 


LOWER  CANADA.  «> 

■i784.  Canada  was  made  the  seat  of  a  general  governmentj  to 
which  ttie  otiier  provinces  were,  in  a  manner,  made  subject. 

1791.  Upper  and  Lower  Canada  were  divided,  and  each  const!- 
Uited  a  distinct  government  independent  of  the  other. 

Religion.  Auout  nine  tenths  of  the  inhabitants  are  Roman  Cath- 
olics. Of  the  remaining  tenth  the  greater  part  are  Episcopalians. 
A  few  are  Presbyterians.  There  are  15  clergymen  of  the  church 
of  England  in  the  province,  with  a  bishop  at  their  head,  and  about 
140  Roman  Catholic,  who  also  have  a  bishop.  The  catholics  have 
1 1  missionary  stations  in  different  parts  of  the  British  dominions, 
which  are  supplied  with  missionaries.  Thereare  3  ministers  of  the 
churcii  of  Scotland,  1  at  Quebec,  1  at  Montreal,  and  1  at  New- 
Oswegatchie.* 

Government.  The  governor  general  of  British  America,  is  the 
ordinary  governor.  He  is  appointed  by  the  crown,  A  lieutenant 
governor  chosen  in  the  province  executes  that  office  in  his  absence. 

The  legislature  is  made  up  of  a  legislative  council  and  an  assem- 
bly, who  with  the  governor,  have  power  to  make  laws.  The  legis*- 
lative  council  is  composed  of  '.5  members,  who  hold  their  seats  for 
life  ;  unless  forfeited  by  4  years  continual  absence,  or  by  swearing 
allegiance  to  some  foreign  power.  They  are  appointed  by  the 
governor  general  with  the  approbation  of  the  king.  The  house  of 
assembly  consists  of  50  members  in  the  several  towns  and  counties* 

The  governor  with  some  of  the  council  selected  by  the  crownj 
constitute  the  high  court  of  appeals  in  the  province. 

Pofiuladon,  The  number  of  inhabitants,  in  Lower  Canada,  iti 
1783,  was  by  actual  enumeration  1 13,012.  The  number,  in  1806» 
was,  according  to  Mr.  Heriot,  150,000.  In  1811,  they  were  estimat- 
ed at  between  200,000  and  300,000.t  The  greater  part  of  these? 
are  descendents  of  the  original  French  colonists.  We  are  not  cer- 
tain whether  the  aborigines  are  included  in  this  estimation  ;  but 
believe  they  are  not.     Their  number  is  probably  about  20,000 

Army.  The  militia  of  Lower  Canada  is  organized  in  30  divisions^ 
with  their  proper  officers.  Eight  of  these  divisions  are  within  the 
district  of  Quebec,  3  in  that  of  Three  R  ivcrs,  6  in  that  of  the  East- 
ern townships,  and  13  in  that  of  Montreal. 

Re-venue.  The  only  revenue  to  Great  Britain  arises  from  an  ad- 
vantageous commerce.  The  expenses  of  the  civil  list  amount  to 
25,000/.  sterling,  one  half  paid  by  the  province,  the  other  b^y  Great 
Britain  ;  of  the  military  establishments,  with  repairs  of  forts,  to 
100,000/.  of  presents  to  the  savages,  and  salaries  to  officers  em- 
ployed in  trading  with  them,  to  100,000/.  more. 

Language.  The  French  is  universally  spoken.  The  English  i^ 
restricted  to  the  few  British  and  American  settlers. 

Universities.  Of  these  there  are  two,  one  at  Quebec,  the  other, 
at  Montreal,  both  belonging  to  the  Roman  Catholics,  and  respecta- 
ble institutions,  well  endowed,  and  furnished  with  learned  profes" 
sors. 

*  Quebec  Alotfnac  for  isih  t  1'»'8' 

11 


i2  LOWER  CANADA. 

Cifies  and  Towns.  Quebec  is  the  capital  of  the  province.  It' 
stands  on  a  point  of  land  en  the  northwest  side  of  the  river  St. Law- 
rence, lat.  45  48  39  north,  Ion.  7112  6  west,  at  its  confluence  with 
the  river  St.  Charles  and  about  320  miles  from  the  sea  and  1 80 
from  Montreal*  The  streets  are  irregular,  uneven,  narrow,  and 
unpavcd.  The  houses  are  almost  universally  of  stone,  small,  ugly, 
and  inconvenient.  The  fortifications  are  extensive  but  irrej^ulaf. 
A  large  garrison  is  maintained,  but  5000  soldiers  would  be  neces= 
sary  toman  the  works.  The  number  of  inhabitants,  in  1806,  was 
1 5,G00.t  The  St.  Lawrence,  opposite  the  town,  is  only  a  mile  wide. 
A  little  below  it  widens  to  4 or  5  leagues,  and  continues  that  width' 
to  the  sea.  It  forms  here  a  safe  and  commodious  bason  for  ships, 
and  is  from  20  to  23  fathom.s  deep. 

Montreal,  stands  on  the  east  side  of  an  island  in  the  river 
St.  Lawience,  v/hich  is  30  miles  long,  and  12  broad.  The  town 
is  200  below  lake  Ontario,  and  1 80  miles  above  Quebec,  in  lat.  43 
35  north,  Ion.  73  1 1  west,  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation.  The  St. 
Lawrence  is  3  miles  wide  at  this  place.  The  city  forms  an  ob- 
l(/ng  square  surrounded  by  a  wall.  The  houses  stand  on  a  side 
hill,  and  may  be  seen  at  one  view,  from  the  harbor.  The  number 
of  inhabitants  in  1809  was  estimated  at  16,000.  The  distance  of 
the  town  from  the  southeast  bank  of  the  river  is  half  a  league. 

Trois  Rivieres  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  northern  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  50  miles  southwest  of  Quebec. 

La  Prairie  is  a  little  village  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  to 
Montreal. 

Sorelle  lies  45  miles  below  Montreal,  and  contains  100  scattered 
Iiouses.     Its  chief  business  is  ship  building. 

Inland  A''avigation.  There  are  two  routes  westward  to  fort 
Chepf wyan,  the  great  rendezvous  of  the  western  traders.  The 
southern  is  up  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  lakes  to  the  falls  of  St. 
Mary.  The  other  is  up  the  Ottawas  to  the  mouth  of  Little  river, 
up  that  river  45  miles  ;  thence  by  land  to  lake  Nepisingui  10  miles  ; 
thence  down  that  lake  and  French  river,  and  across  by  the  north- 
ern shore  of  lake  Huron,  to  the  falls  of  St.  Mary.  This  last  route 
is  alone  taken  by  the  men  employed  in  the  fur  trade.  The  other 
is  taken  to  transport  merchandize  for  the  western  country  to  De- 
troit and  Michilimackinac. 

The  river  Sorelle  connects  lake  Champlain  with  the  St.  Law- 
rence between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  furnishes  the  former  of 
these  two  tovv^ns  an  advantageous  connection  with  the  northern 
parts  of  New-York  and  Vermont. 

MannfacmreH  and  Commerce.  Ship-building  is  carried  on  at 
Quebec  and  at  Sorelle  with  considerable  success.  Flour,  biscuit, 
and  pot-ash,  are  extensively  manufactured  for  exportation.  The 
sugar  consumed  in  the  interior  is  all  of  it  manufactured  from  the 
juice  of  the  maple.  A  few  coarse  linen  and  woollen  cloths  arc 
:!:aanuj[actured  for  home  consumption. 

•  Quebec  Almanac  for  18n» 
f  H?rK>t» 


LOWER  CANADA.  85 

In  1 802  the  expoi'ts  exceeded  half  a  million  sterling.  Besides 
furs  and  fish  there  were  exported  in  that  year  1,010,000  busliels  of 
wiicat,  38,000  barrels  of  flour,  32,000  cwt.  of  biscuit,  large  quanti- 
ties of  potasli,  and  considerable  quantities  of  American  ginseng. 
la  the  export  of  these  articles  21 1  vessels  were  einpioyed,  amount- 
ing to  36,000  tons.  The  substantial  articles  of  export  in  1810 
were  peltries,  lumber,  flour,  pork,  and  beef.  The  vessels  cleared 
in  tliat  year  were  661.  Their  tonnage  amounted  to  143,893;  theii** 
seamen  to  6,578. 

The  lur  tiade  has  become  a  very  interesting  object.  The 
Nortliwest  company  was  formedin  1783.  They  employ  in  the  con- 
cern 50  clerks,  71  interpreters  and  clerks,  1120  canoe-men,  35 
guides,  and  about  140  canoes.  Each  canoe  v/ill  carry  about  8,400 
lbs.  weight,  and  is  navigated  by  8  or  10  men. 

The  produce  of  1810,  consisted  of  the  following  furs  and  peltries, 
98,523     Beaver    skins  2,536     Fisher  skins 

10,751     Bear  do.  59,521     Raccoon  do. 

2,645     Otter  do,  19     Wolf       do. 

9,971     Musquash  do.  534     Elk  do. 

,554     Martin        do.  32,551     Deer       do. 

169     Mink  do.  2,428     Cased  and  open  Cat  do. 

327     Lynx  do.  1,833     Swan       do. 

517     Wolverine  do.  2,684     Hare        do. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  Winter  commences  early  in  Novem- 
ber, and  lasts  till  April.  The  ice  on  the  rivers  is  usually  two  feet 
thick,  and  that  close  to  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  common- 
jy  6  feet.     The  snow  usually  lies  from  4  to  6  ieet  deep. 

Face  of  the  Country.  Lower  Canada  is  every  where  hilly,  and 
in  many  places  mountainous.  Far  the  greater  part  of  ihe  country- 
is  still  covered  with  forests. 

Soil  and  .Agriculture.  The  soil  is  generally  a  loose,  1)lackisk 
earth,  ten  or  twelve  inches  thick,  covering  a  bed  of  clay.  It  is  veiy 
fertile.  Marl  is  employed  as  a  manure,  and  is  found  in  great  a- 
bundance  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Wheat  is  raised  in 
large  quantities  for  exportation.  Barley,  rye,  and  other  sorts  of 
grain  are  productive.  A  little  tobacco  is  raised  lor  private  use^ 
Culinary  vegetables  thrive  very  well.  The  meadows,  which  are 
well  watered,  yield  excellent  grass,  and  feed  great  numbers  of 
large  and  small  cattle. 

Rivers.  These  are  the  St  Lawrence,  the  Sorelle,  the  Saguenaij 
and  Black  rivers. 

The  Connecticut  runs  a  little  distance  in  this  province.  These 
rivers  may  be  traced  on  the  map. 

Botany.  The  trees  of  New»=England,  with  the  exception  of  the 
various  species  of  oak,  are  found  in  both  Canadas,  but  generally  in- 
ferior in  their  size.     Evergreens  predominate  in  the  forests. 

Zoology.     See  this  article  under  tlie  head  United  States. 

Jxatural  Curiosities.  The  falls  of  Montmorency  are  situated  up- 
on a  river  of  the  same  name,  which  empties  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
on  its  northeasterly  side,  in  the  district  of  Beaupour,  about  3  leagues 
below  Quebec.    They  are  20  rods  from  the  confluence  of  the  two 


84  NEWFOUNDLAND  ISLAND. 

rivers,  and  may  be  distinctly  viewed  as  you  sail  down  the  St.  Law- 
rence. The  river  is  50  yards  wide,  and  so  rapid,  that  the  quantity 
()f  water  is  very  great.  About  50  feet  above  the  perpendicular  cas- 
cade, the  water  begins  to  tumble  over  rocks  at  an  angle  of  45°,  till  it 
arrives  at  its  great  leap  ;  where  it  falls  in  one  unbroken,  uninter- 
rupted sheet  to  the  bottom.  The  height  of  the  perpendicular  fall 
..is  240  feet. 


NEWFOUNDLAND  ISLAND. 

Situation  and  Extent.  NEWFOUNDLAND  limits  the  north- 
^eastern  side  of  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  separated  from 
New-Britain  by  the  straits  of  Belleisle,  and  from  Cape  Breton  by  the 
principal  mouth  of  the  gulf.  It  lies  between  lat.  46  45  and  52  3 1 
>J.  and  between  Ion.  52  3  I  and  59  40  W.  Its  length  is  38 1  miles, 
and  its  breadth  varies  from  40  to  287.     Its  shape  is  triangular. 

Settlement.     1497.  Sebastian  Cabot  discovered  the  island. 

1504.  Some  French  fishermen  came  upon  the  coast,  and  fished 
upon  the  banks. 

1610.  Mr.  John  Guy,  with  39  others,  began  a  settlement  at  Con- 
<qeption  bay,  Guy  was  employed  by  the  London  and  Bristol  com- 
pany.    Previous  to  this  time  Placentia  was  settled  by  the  French. 

1613.  By  the  treaty  of  Utrecht  Newfoundland  was  acknowledg- 
ed by  the  French  to  belong  to  England. 

Government.  The  admiral  on  the  coast  is  the  governor  of  the 
island,  under  the  governor  general  of  the  British  provinces. 

Pofiulation.  The  population  in  1805,  was  24,922,  of  whom  8000 
%vere  Roman  Catholics.  It  is  now  not  less  than  30,000.  The 
greater  part  of  the  men  are  employed  in  the  fishery.  The  Indians 
are  considerably  numerous  ;  probably  more  than  1000. 

Towns.  Placentia  stands  on  a  large  bay  of  the  same  name  ore 
the  southern  end,  near  the  eastern  side  of  the  island.  The  bay  is 
an  excellent  harbor,  and  is  much  resorted  to  by  the  fishing  ships. 
The  nimiber  of  inhabitants  is  about  3000. 

St.  John's  lies  on  the  eastern  side,  near  the  southern  end  of  the 
island,  in  lat.  47  o5  N.  ion.  52  20  W.  It  is  about  the  size  of  Pla- 
centia. 

Bonavista  stands  on  the  eastern  side,  near  the  middle  of  the  isl- 
and, on  Bonavista  bay,  in  lat.  49  20,  Ion.  53  25. 

Fifihi7ig  Banks.  The  Grand  Bank  lies  60  miles  from  the  south- 
caslein  shore.  It  is  300  miles  long  and  75  broad.  To  the  east  of 
this  lies  False  Bank.  The  next  is  Green  Bank,  240  miles  long 
and  120  broad;  then  Banguas,  about  the  same  size ;  then  Sand 
Jsland  Shoals,  Whale  Bank,  zwd.  Bank  of  St  Peters,  with  several 
others  of  less  note.     These  banks  extend  from  lat.  41°  to  49°  N. 

Harbors.  There  are  about  20  bays  and  harbors  on  the  coast. 
They  are  all  complete  anchoring  places,  being  clear  of  rocks,  and 
having  a  good  bottom. 

Fishery.    There  are  two  fishing  seasons.     That  on  the  shor® 


UPPER  CANADA.  83 

and  in  the  harbors,  commences  about  the  20th  of  April,  and  ends 
about  the  lOUi  oi  October,  The  boats  fish  in  from  4  to  20  fathoms 
water.  The  other,  the  bank  season,  is  the  most  important.  It  be- 
gins the  10th  of  May,  and  continues  till  the  last  of  September.  The 
boats  fish  in  from  30  to  45  iathoms  water.  The  fishermen  on  a^i 
average  take  each  7000  in  a  season.  Tlie  greatest  number  ever 
taken  by  one  man  was  i20G0,  and  the  largest  cod-fish  ever  caught 
here  measured  4  feet  3  inches  long,  and  weighed  46  pounds. 

Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  employ  annually  3000  sail 
«f  small  cratt  in  this  fishery ;  on  board  ol  which,  and  on  shore  to 
cure  the  fish,  are  upwards  of  100,000  hands.  Thiee  quintals  of 
■wet  fish  make  one  quintal  of  dry,  and  the  livers  of  100  quintals 
make  one  hogshead  of  oil.  The  pi  educe  of  the  fishery  will  aver-^ 
age  300,000  quintals  of  fish,  and  3000  hogsheads  of  oil.  The  pro- 
duce of  the  year  1799  was  as  follows  ; 

453,337  quintals  of  dry  cod-fish  202  barrels  of  herring 

13,995      do.        ofcore-fiah  3,017  tons  of  oil 

2,642  tierces  of  salmon  74,181   sealskins 

Climate  and  Soil.  In  the  winter  the  climate  is  severe.  The 
poasts  are  very  subject  to  fogs,  attended  with  almost  continual 
storms  of  snow  and  sleet,  the  sky  being  usually  overcast.  These 
are  attributed  to  the  vapours  of  the  Gulf  Stream.  Tlie  land  near 
the  coast  is  rocky  and  barren.  A  few  kitchen  vegetables  with 
strawberries  and  raspberries  are  all  its  produce. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  country,  for  60  miles  from  the  south-^ 
em  coast,  is  hilly,  but  not  mountainous.  The  coasts  are  high,  an<l 
the  shores  rcmaikably  bold.  The  niountains  on  the  S.  W.  side, 
near  the  sea,  are  very  high  and  terminate  in  lofty  headlands. 

Rivers.     The  rivers  are  all  short  and  unfit  for  navigation. 


UPPER  CANADA, 

Extent.  THE  southern  extremity,  on  lake  Erie,  is  in  lat.  43 
30  N.  the  northern  at  Poplar  river  in  lat.  52  30  ;  the  eastern  on  lake 
St.  Francis  in  Ion.  74°  W.  and  the  western  on  lake  Winnipec  in 
Ion.  97*^.  The  northern  line  generally,  however,  is  believed  to  be 
considerably  south  of  lat.  52  30.  Its  length  from  east  to  west  is 
1090  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth  from  lake  Erie  to  the  northern 
line  is  525  miles  ;  the  average  breadth  is  not  more  than  250  or  300. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  New-Britain  ;  N.  E.  and  E.  by 
Lower  Canada,  and  the  river  St  Lawrence,  lake  Ontario,  and  Ni- 
agara river,  which  divide  it  from  New-York  ;  S.  by  the  lakes  which 
divide  it  from  New-York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Michigan  and  Illi- 
nois Territories  ;  W.  by  Detroit  riv-er,  lake  St.  Clair,  Huron  river 
and  lake,  Winnipec  river,  and  lake  Winnipec. 

Religion.  At  Kingston,  Newark,  and  a  few  other  places,  there 
are  settled  clergymen.  Except  these  places  the  Methodists  are 
almost  the  only  preachers  in  the  country.  Methodism  is  the. 
■j>revaiUng  religion  of  the  province. 


66  UPPER  CANADA. 

Goverriinent  and  Civil  Bivi.sions.  Upper  Canada  has  a  lieuten- 
ant governor  who  acts  as  governor  in  the  absence  of  the  governor 
general. 

The  legislature  is  composed  of  a  legislative  council  and  house 
of  assembly.  The  former  contains  not  less  than  7  members,  the 
latter  not  less  than  16.  The  manner  of  election  and  the  tenure  of 
office  are  the  same  as  in  Lower  Canada. 

The  legislature  meets  annually  in  May,  and  has  the  sole  power 
of  taxation. 

This  province  is  divided  into  the  following  19  counties,  which 
are  subdivided  into  townships  ordinarily  of  9  miles  by  12. 

The  constitution,  which  guarantees  to  the  people  their  political 
privleges,  was  received  from  the  British  government  iri  1791.  '1  hat 
governnjent  bears  the  whole  expense  of  the   civil  estabiishmcnt. 

Fofiulation.  The  number  of  inhabitants,  in  1783,  wau  iU,OUOin 
1806,  80,000.*  They  are  composed  chiefly  of  emigrants  from 
Isfew-England  and  New-Jersey. 

Towns.  York,  the  seat  of  government,  stands  on  York  harbor, 
in  43  35  N.  directly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Niagara  tivcr,  which  is 
40  miles  distantby  water,  and  100  by  land.  Tlie  town  is  projected  to 
extend  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  from  the  bottom  of  the  harbor, 
along  the  lake.  Many  houses  are  already  comphied,  some  of 
%vhich  display  considerable  taste.  It  v*as  laid  out  in  179 1.  \\  iih- 
jn  the  last  JO  years  its  growth  has  been  rapid. 

Kingston  is  in  lai.  44  8  N.  Ion.  75  41  W.  It  stands  at  the  head 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  occupies  the  site  of  fort  Fronlenac.  It 
lias  an  excellent  harbor,  in  which  tlse  king's  shipping  on  lake  On- 
tario winter.  It  has  an  episcopal  church,  a  hospital  and  a  barrack 
for  troops. 

Newark  stands  on  the  west  bank  of  Niagara  river,  at  its  mouth, 
in  lat.  45°.  It  extends  a  mile  along  the  lake.  It  contains  two 
churches,  one  Episcopal,  the  other  Presbyterian. 

Quccnstown  stands  on  Niagara  river,  7  miles  above  Newark.  It 
contains  an  Episcopal  church. 

Chipawa  is  a  little  village,  3  miles  above  the  Falls,  and  6  above 
Queenstown. 

Elizabethtown,  in  the  district  of  Johnstown,  near  lake  Ontario, 
was  settled  in  1784,  chiefly  by  Bruish  people.  The  London  mis- 
sionary society  have  a  missionary  established  here. 

Miiuia.  The  militia  embraces  all  the  males,  except  the  Friends, 
Tunkers,  and  iSlennonists,  from  1  6  to  45. 

Climate.  The  climate  is  much  milder  than  in  the  Lower  pro- 
vince. 

Face  of  the  Country.  This  country  is  generally  level,  and,  in 
many  ])arts,  little  elevated  above  the  lakes. 

iSuH  and  yjgiiculiure.  The  soil  is  generally  good.  The  agri- 
culture is  yet  in  its  infancy.  The  whole  country,  which  is  cleared, 
produces  good  wheat,  Indian  corn,  flax,  and  grass  in  abundance, 
ilopscf  a  good  quality  grow  spontaneously  ;  also  plums,  mulber- 
Tie<;,  blackberries,  strawberries,  raspberries,  and  grapes.     Orch* 

'»  Heriot's  TraysJ?. 


KOVA-SCOtlA.  tl 

ards  herein  to  bear  fruit.  Penches,  cherries,  and  cui'raiits  are  abun- 
dant     Good  pofk  is  often  fattened  entirely  in  the  woods. 

Rivrr.s.  These  arc  the  67.  Lawrence^  Ottawas^  Moose,  Albany^ 
Trent,  Thamfs,  Cliifiaiua,  Holland,  lake  jViJiissing,  French.^  Micbi- 
fiico'en,  and  the  JVi/iigon  rivers. 

Lakrs.  Half  of /a/^-fs  Ontario,  Erie,  St.  Clair,  Huron,  SuperioTf 
Hainy  lake,  lake  of  the  Woods,  2ir\(\  lake  IVinnifiec  hclou^  io  Up- 
pv.-r  Canada.  Lake  JMl/m/iing  lies  north  of  Huron,  about  40  miles 
3on'^  and  15  wide,  and  lake  Simcoe  east  of  it,  about  as  large.  Lakes 
St.  Anne.  Srurg-eon,  St.  Jone/i/i,  and  several  others  lie  N.  and  N-* 
W-  of  lake  Superior. 

Bay.  Th.'  bay  of  Qiiinti  is  a  very  Ion?;,  narrow  harbor,  on  the 
northern  sho;"e  of  lake  ()ntario.  It  is  navigable  50  miles  far  the 
vessels  of  the  lake. 


NOVA-SCOTIA. 

Extent.  N'OVA'-SCOTIA  is  a  large  peninsula,  stretching; 
from  the  province  of  New-Brunswick  into  tlie  Atlantic.  It  lies  be- 
tween lat.  43  30  and  48  4  N  and  between  Ion.  58  50  and  67"  W- 
Its  length  is  -K)?  miles,  its  breadth  154,  and  it  contains  about 
14,000  square  miles. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  E  by  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and 
the  straits  of  Northumberland  and  Canceau  ;  E.  S.  and  S.  W.  by 
the  Ati. antic  ocean  ;  W.  by  the  bays  of  Fundy  and  Verte  and  the 
province  of  Ncw-B;  unswick  with  which  it  is  connected  by  an  isth- 
mus abovit  18  milt^s  wide. 

Historical  Efiochs.  In  the  year  1594,  one  May,  an  Englishman, 
touclipd  upon  the  coast. 

1598  The  Isle  of  Sable  was  peopled  by  a  number  of  French 
convicts,  I'^ft  there  by  the  Marquis  de  la  Roche,  who  explored  the 
west  of  Nova-Scotia,  but  made  no  settlement. 

1605  Henry  IV.  of  France  granted  the  Sieur  de  Montz  a  patent- 
of  the  American  territories  from  lat.  40°  to  48°  N.  In  the  follow- 
ing year  that  adventurer  made  a  settlement  at  Annapolis. 

1613.  Annapolis  was  destroyed  by  an  English  expedition  front- 
Virginia. 

1621.  James  I.  of  Scotland  granted  sir  William  Alexander  J* 
patfiit  of  Nova- Scotia. 

1749.  An  expedition  sailed  from  Engb.nd  under  general  Corn* 
wallis,  consisting  of  2700  persons.  Parliament  devoted  40,000/, 
sterling  to  defray  the  expense,  and  30,000  annually  to  support  the 
settlement  till  1755.  The  progress  of  the  settlement  for  the  firs':. 
1 1  years  was  slow. 

1760.  The  capture  of  Canada  relieved  the  settlers  of  their  dan- 
gers from  the  Indians  and  French, 

1763.  Nova-Scotia  by  the  treaty  of  Paris  was  finally  ceded  to 
Great  B-fii^^-in 

Religion.      The   estabii-shcd   religion  is  that  of  tbe  c'hiivc'h   ©f 


Is  NOVA-SCOTIA. 

iEn^land,  Tl)e  diocese  of  Nova-Scotia  includes  New-JBrunswick» 
Cape  Breton,  and  St.  John's  island.  It  was  made  a  bishopric  in 
1787.  There  are  19  missions.  The  ministers  are  supported  part- 
ly by  the  society  in  England  and  partly  by  the  government.  The 
Presbyterian  clergyman  at  Halifax  has  the  same  allowance  from 
government,  as  any  clergyman  of  the  church  of  England. 

Government.  In  1808,  the  civil  and  military  authorities  were 
joined  in  the  person  of  the  governor,  and  the  provinces  of  Nova- 
Scotia,  New-Brunswick,  St.  John's,  and  Cape  Breton,  erected  into 
one  military  command  of  which  he  is  the  Ijead. 

The  legislature  consists  of  three  authorities,  the  governor,  the 
£ouncil,  and  the  house  of  representatives. 

The  power  of  the  governor  varies  with  his  instructions. 

The  powers  of  the  two  houses  of  assembly  resemble  those  of 
the  parliament. 

The  house  of  representatives  consists  of  59  members ;  20  of 
whom  are  county  members,  and  the  remainder  are  sent  by  ihe  dif- 
ferent townships.  Their  proceedings  are  regulated  by  the  parlia- 
mentary precedents  of  Great  Britain. 

Divisions.  Nova-Scotia  is  divided  into  8  counties  which  are 
subdivided  into  townships. 

FofLulatio7u  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  between  70,000  and 
$0,000.  The  great  body  of  the  people  are  of  English  origin.  Con- 
siderable numbers  are  from  Massacliusetts  and  Connecticut.  Af- 
ter these  the  Scotch  and  Irish  are  most  numerous.  There  are  a 
few  Germans,  also,  and  a  few  French  Acadians. 

The  Micmacs  were  the  aborigines  of  the  province.  They  in- 
habit the  eastern  shore,  between  Halifax  and  Cape  Breton.  They 
are  supposed  now  to  have  about  300  fighting  men,  fast  diminishing. 

Colleges  and  Schools.  In  1789  King's  college,  was  established 
by  an  act  of  the  legislature  at  Windsor.  A  charter  was  granted, 
in  1802  ;  and  a  liberal  fund  established  for  the  support  of  the  in- 
stitution. It  has  a  valuable  library.  There  are  three  scholarships 
of  30/.  per  annum,  established  by  tlie  society  for  the  propagation  of 
the  gospel,  for  the  encouragement  of  students  in  divinity.  The 
university  scholarships  are  only  20/.  per  annum.  The  president's 
salary  is  400/.  that  of  the  professors  100/. 

Almost  every  village  in  the  province  has  a  small  school  ;  and 
each  mission  has  a  schoolmaster,  wno  receives  a  salary  from  the 
society  for  the  propagation  of  the  gospel. 

Chief  Toivns.  Halifax,  the  capital  of  the  province,  is  in  lati- 
tude 44  40  N.  on  a  spacious  and  commodious  harbor,  of  a  bold 
and  safe  entrance.  The  town  is  built  on  the  west  side  of  the  har- 
bor, on  the  declivity  of  a  commanding  hill,  whose  summit  is  more 
than  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  town  is  laid  out  in 
oblong  squares.  The  streets  cut  each  other  at  right  angles.  The 
town  and  suburbs  are  about  two  miles  in  length,  the  general  breadth 
is  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  It  contains  1000  houses  and  8000  inhabit- 
ants. At  the  north  end  of  the  town  is  the  king's  naval  yard,  com- 
pletely supplied  with  stores  of  every  kind  for  the  navy.  Halifax 
is  reckoned  inferior  to  no  place  in  British  Aijicrica  for  a  seat  of 


NOVA-SCOTIA.  41 

^^ovemmenk ;  as  well  from  the  harbor  being  open  and  accessible, 
at  ali  seasons  otthe  year,  as  from  its  easy  entrance,  and  its  proxi- 
mity to  the  principal  interior  settlements  of  the  province.  The 
country  around  the  town  is  very  rocky,  and  the  soil  bad,  and  in 
gi-n;  ral  very  unfit  for  cultivation. 

PicTou  is  a  growing  settlement  in  the  county  of  Halifax.  It  is 
built  on  the  bay  of  Pictou,  on  the  northeast  coast  of  the  province. 
It  contains  40  houses,  and  500  inhabitants,  who  are  chiefly  Scotch. 

Liverpool  is  a  commercial  settlement  on  the  sea  coast  in 
Queen's  county.  It  is  built  on  Liverpool  bay,  and  contains  200 
houses 

The  other  principal  towns  are  Lunenburgli,  Barrington,  Argyle, 
Yarmouth,  Digley,  Annapolis,  and  Windsor. 

Roads.  The  principal  post  road  in  the  province  is  that  from 
Halifax  to  Digby,  150  miles.  There  are  two  packets  established 
between  Dighy  and  St.  John's  in  New-Brunswick,  for  the  convey- 
ance of  the  mails  over  the  bay  of  Fundy.  Both  cross  once  a  week. 
There  are  two  roads  from  Halifar.  to  Pictou  ;  one  througlj  Trurb, 
100  miles  long.:  the  other,  by  the  head  of  Marquadaboit,  1 10  mile« 
long.  There  is  no  settlement  in  the  .province,  which  has  not  si 
road  opened  with. Halifax. 

Trade.  In  1753,  the  exports  amounted  to  29,552/. ;  the  imports 
to  934/.  In  1810,  the  iiY>ports  from  Great  Britain  alone,  into  the 
single  port  of  Halifax,  amounted  to  600,000/.  ;  and  the  imports  into 
the  whole  province  to  1,200,000/. 

The  exports  consist  chiefly  of  timber,  fish,  and  lumber,  to  Great 
Britain  and  the  West-Indies.  The  export  of  timber  has  of  late 
years  been  very  extensive,  and  the  numerous  harbors,  from  the  bay  of 
Chaleurs,  to  the  bay  of  Fundy,  inclusive,  have  been  covered  with 
vessels  for  cargoes  of  timber.  More  than  200,000  tons  were  ex- 
ported from  that  district  in  lyiO.  The  fisheries,  however,  afford 
the  principal  article  of  export. 

Climate  ajid  S?asoiLs.  The  winters  of  Nova-Scotia  are  gener- 
ally mild  and  salubrious.  The  average  height  of  the  thermome- 
ter, in  the  winter  of  18U9,  at  Windsor,  wus  o0°.  During  that  win- 
ter the  harbor  of  Halifax  was  frozen  over,  which  had  not  happened 
for  20  years.  The  average  height  of  the  thermometer,  in  the  sum- 
mer of  18 1 0,  was  68".  Once  in  the  month  of  August,  1799,  it  rose 
to  100°.  It  never  was  higher  in  the  province.  The  spring  is  u- 
sually  late,  and  the  wes-ther  rainy  and  unhealthy.  The  summer  is 
warm,  though  seldom  to  an  e:rcess.  The  rains  are  not  often  vio- 
lent, and  rarely  continue  long.  The  first  two  months  of  the  au- 
tumn are  healthy,  mild,  and  pleasant. 

Face  of  the  >Countrti.  The  N.  E.  shores  present  to  the  stranger 
a  gloomy  and  forbidding  appearance.  Between  Halifax  and  Tor- 
bay  the  settlements  are  poor,  and  icvf  ;  and  the  shore  rocky  and 
barren. 

The  S.  W.  coast  bears  the  marks  of  industry  and  cultivation, 
particularly  the  county  of  Lunenburgh.  All  the  counties  that  bor- 
der on  the  bay  of  Fundy  arc  mountainous,  and  ;h§  uncleared  hills 
are  covered  with  hard  wood  mi  various  kinds. 


Sd  NOVA-SCOTIA. 

The  most  remarkable  land  on  the  south  shore  of  Nova-Scotia  is 
the  hi^h  land  of  Aspoiageon,  which  lies  on  the  promontory  which 
separates  Mahone  from  Margaret's  bay.  The  summit  of  this  land 
is  al)<>ut  500  foet  perpendicular  from  tlie  level  of  the  sea. 

In  King's  county  there  are  more  than  10,000  acres,  and  in  Cum- 
berland county  20,000  acres,  of  marsh  land  that  is  dyked  Thtre 
are  also  great  quantities  of  the  same  land  in  Annapolis  and  Hants 
counties. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  oftheS.  W.  counties  is  rich 
and  productive,  and  in  general  consists  (fa  coarse  loam.  Graia 
^rows  abundantly  in  every  part  of  these  counties  ;  and  enough 
jnight  be  raised  in  then)  to  supply  the  %vhoIe  of  Nova-Scotia. 

The  soil  on  the  sea  coast  is  generally  barren,  and  the  agricul-^ 
ture  very  little  improved.  The  county  of  Lunenburgh  is  an  entire 
exception  to  these  remarks. 

The  country  west  of  cape  Canceaa  is  more  improved,  and  there 
«re  many  flourishing  settlements. 

Bcijs.  Between  Canceau,  and  cape  Sable,  the  two  extremities 
of  this  province,  there  are  perhaps  more  bays  and  harbors  than  on 
any  other  coast  in  the  w{>rld. 

The  bay  of  Fundy  is  the  largest.  It  puts  up  between  New" 
Brunswick  and  Nova-Scotia,  from  the  south,  about  150  miles.  Its 
breadth  at  its  rnouth  is  100  miles;  but  from  the  gut  of  Annapolis 
to  St.  John's  is  only  36  miles.  The  bay  branches  toward  the  north. 
The  vi'estern  branch  is  called  Chignecto  channel ;  the  eastern  the 
bason  of  Mincifi.  The  3outi>ea?/Lern  arm  of  this  bason  is  called  Co- 
bequid  bay.  Tides  rise  in  the  bay  of  Fundy  30  feet,  in  the  bason 
of  Minas,  40  feet,  in  Chignecto  citannel,  60  feet.  The  rise  of  the 
tide  is  very  rapid. 

Capes.  The  principal  capes  ave  cape  Sable,  at  the  southern, 
and  cape  Canceau,  at  the  northern,  extremity  of  the  province. 

Lakes.  The  largest,  lake  Rossigitoi,  20  miles  from  Annapolis, 
IS  the  source  of  Liverpool  river.  Farters  lake  lies  a  little  east  of 
Halifax,  and  empties  its  \/aters  into  the  ocean  about  1 5  miles  east 
of  that  place.  It  is  15  miles  bug,  and  half  a  mile  broad.  Foto-^ 
nvack^  or  CAffs/cT  lake,  is  on  the  road  from  Chester  to  Windsor,  15 
miles  from  the  former.  Shubenaccadie  is  20  miles  from  Halifax, 
and  7  from  Windsor. 

Kivers.  Annaj'wlis  river,  in  King's  county,  is  navigable  at  high 
-tides,  for  vessels  of  100  tons,  14  rhiles.  The  Shubenaccadie,  runs 
es  miles,  into  Chebequid  bay.  The  Pigaquiu,  after  a  course  of  29 
miles,  falls  into  the  bason  of  I.Iinas.  Vessels  of  400  tons  go  up  at 
liigh  tide  10  miles  to  Windsor,  and  those  of  100  tons,  5  miles  far- 
ther. 

Mineralogij.  A  good  deal  of  iron  ore  has  been  found  near  An- 
Viapolis.  Pieces  of  copper  ore  were  found  some  years  ago  at  cape 
d'Or  and  Haute  isle,  and  near  cape  Chignecto,  but  none  lately. 

There  are  many  extensive  coal  mines  at  Cumberland,  and  oth- 
ers in  many  parts  of  the  province.  The  province  abounds  in  lime-^ 
^tone,  \>:hich  is  found  in  every  county.    Great  quantities  of  gypsjiiK 


PROVINCE  OF  NEW-BRUNSWICK.  *l 

&re  quarried  in  Hants,  and  at  Canceau,  and  exported  to  the  othei' 
•provinces  and  the  United  litaies.  There  arc  extensive  quarries  of 
freestone  near  Pictou. 


PROVINCE  OF  NEW-BRUNSWICK. 

Boundaries.  BOUNDED  west  by  the  District  of  Maine  ; 
north  by  Lower  Canada,  and  the  sea  ;  and  S.  S.  E.  by  Nova  Sco- 
tia and  the  bay  otFundy. 

Po/ndation.  The  number  of  inhabitants  probably  exceeds 
40,000,  although  we  have  no  means  ot  ascertaining  how  far. 

Chief  Towns.  St.  John,  the  capita!,  is  situated  on  high  ground, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  John.  The  streets  are  spacious  and 
regular.  It  contains  upwards  of  1000  inhabittints,  several  well 
built  houses,  a  handsome  church  and  city  hall. 

Frcderickton,  the  present  seat  of  government,  formerly  called  St. 
Anne's,  lies  about  80  miles  up  the  river  St.  John,  and  is  regularly 
laid  out,  in  spacious  streets,  crossing  each  other  at  right  anglesi 
It  has  a  church,  several  well  built  houses,  and  upwai'ds  of  500  in*- 
habitants. 

Rivers,  Soil,  isfc.  St.  John  is  the  principal  river  in  this  provuice. 
From  its  entrance  into  the  bay  of  Fundy,  to  its  main  souicc,  is  35(3 
miles.  The  tide  flows  80  miles  up  this  river.  It  is  navigable  fop 
sloops  of  50  tons  60  miles,  and  for  boats  200.  Its  general  course 
from  its  source  is  E.  S.  E.  It  is  the  common  route  to  Quebec  5 
furnishes  the  inhabitants  with  heiring,  salmon,  bass  and  sturgeon. 
About  one  mile  above  the  city  of  St.  John  is  the  only  entrance  into 
this  river.  It  is  about  80  or  100  yurds  wide,  and  about  400  yards 
in  length.  The  banks  of  this  river,  enriched  by  the  annual  fresnets^ 
are  excellent  land.  About  30  miles  from  th«  mouth  of  tiiis  river 
conmienccs  a  tine  level  country  of  rich  interval  and  meadow 
lands,  well  clothed  with  timber  and  wood.  This  river  has  many 
tributary  streams,  among  which  is  the  Madam kisvvic,  on  whiclx 
are  rich  intervals  that  produce  all  kinds  of  grain  in  the  highest 
perfection. 

On  another  branch,  the  Kennebeccasis,  is  Sussex  vale,  a  well 
inhabited  and  rema^-kably  fertile  tract  of  land,  on  which  stands  tae> 
academy  for  the  instruction  of  the  Indians,  erected  under  the  di- 
rection of  the  "  Incorporated  Company  for  the  Propagation  of  the 
Gospel  in  New-England,  and  parts  adjacent,  in  America."  Thia. 
«;Jiaritable  institution  was  transferred  from  New-England  to  tl:is. 
province  after  the  peace  of  1783.  At  this  academy  40  Indian 
children  are  fed,  clothed,  and  instructed,  under  the  direction  of  a, 
board  of  commissioners,  of  which  the  governor  of  the  province  is^ 
president. 

This  noble  river,  in  its  numerous  and  extensive  branches,  waters- 
and  enriches  a  large  tract  of  excellent  country,  a  great  part  of 
which  is  settled  and  under  improvement.  The  uplands,  in  general 
arc  covered  with  a  fine  g^•^Yth  ©f  t>imber;  sugU  ^s  pine  ai>4  spm*£, 


m  ISLAND  OF  CAPE  BRETON. 

hemlock  and  hard  wood,  principally  beech,  birch,  maple,  and  some 
ash.  The  pines  on  this  river  are  the  largest  to  be  met  with  in  Brit- 
tish  America  and  afford  a  considerable  supply  of  masts  (some  from 
20  to  30  inches  diameter)  for  the  British  navy. 

There  are  3  rivers  which  fall  into  the  bay  of  Passamaquoddy  ; 
viz.  the  Scoodic  ;  the  Merramichi,  and  the  Petitcodiac  rivers.  Thfr 
river  St.  Croix  empties  into  Passamaquoddy  bay,  and  forms  a  part 
of  the  boundary  between  New-Brunswick  and  Maine 

Bays  and  Lakes.  The  coast  of  this  province  is  indented  with 
numerous  bays  and  commodious  harbors.  The  principal  are 
Chaleur,  Merramichi,  Verte,  which  is  separated  from  the  bay  of 
Fundy  by  an  isthmus  about  18  miles  wide  ;  bay  of  Fundy  ;  CLen- 
igto  or  Chignecto  bay,  and  Passamaquoddy  bay,  bordering  on  the 
Di&trict  of  Maine. 


ISLAND  OF  CAPE  BRETON. 

Situation  and  Extent.  THIS  island  lies  between  lat.  45  28  and 
47°  >J.  and  between  Ion.  59  44  and  61  29  W.  from  London,  and 
about  135  miles  eastward  of  Halifax.  It  is  about  109  miles  long  j 
and  from  20  to  84  broad  ;  and  is  separated  from  Nova-Scotia 
by  a  narrow  strait,  called  the  Gut  of  Canceau,  which  is  a  commu- 
nication between  the  Atlantic  ocean  and  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  shores  of  the  island  are  bold  and  safe 
to  approach.  On  the  eastern  side  the  land  is  low,  on  the  north- 
west the  cliffs  are  high. 

Harbors.  1  he  principal  harbors  are  Arichat,  Louisburg,  Main, 
or  Dieu  Spanish  river,  and  St.  Ann's  on  the  eastern  side  ;  and  on 
the  western  side.  Port  Hood,  Margaret,  Chetican,  and  St.  Peter's, 
which  last  is  a  very  commodious  place  for  carrying  on  the  fishery. 

Lake.  The  Bras  d'Or  is  a  large  lake  of  water  which  nearly 
intersects  the  island,  in  a  line  from  north  to  south,  leaving  a  portage 
of  only  a  quarter  of  a  mile  betv»'een  the  lake  and  the  sea.  A  num- 
ber of  large  rivers  empty  themselves  into  the  Bras  d'Or,  and  open 
an  easy  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  island. 

Soil  and  Productions.  There  is  a  great  proportion  of  arable  land. 
That  on  the  banks  of  the  lake  is  considered  equal  to  any  in  North- 
Amsrica.  The  island  abounds  in  timber  and  hard  wood,  such  as 
pine,  beech,  birch,  maple,  spruce  and  fir. 

Population.  There  are  about  3000  inhabitants  ;  of  which  num- 
ber two  thirds  are  French  Acadinns. 

Government.  The  legislative  power  is  in  the  hands  of  the 
lieutenant  governor  and  council,  who  are  appointed  by  the  king, 
as  are  all  tbe  other  officers  of  the  government.  The  expense  of 
the  establishment,  paid  by  the  British  government,  annually 
amounts  to  2200/.  sterling. 

Tonvns.  Sydney  is  the  seat  of  government,  and  is  built  on  th?- 
southeast  branch  of  Spanish  riyer. 


XSLAND  OF  ST.  JOHJ^.  95 

jirkhat  is  on  the  isle  Madam,  and  entirely  inhabited  by  fisher^ 
aien. 

Mines.  At  the  mouth  of  Spanish  river  are  the  coal  mines,  whicli 
are  a  royalty  and  yield  a  revenue  of  12,000/.  yearly. 

Poihical  Inifionance.  This  island,  or  rather  Louisburg,  may  be 
considered  as  the  Dunkirk  of  North-America,  and  the  key  to  Can- 
ada ;  and  the  very  valuable  fishery  in  its  neigliborhood  depends 
for  its  protection  o)i  the  possession  of  this  place,  as  no  nation  can 
carry  it  on  wiii.out  some  convenient  hailjor  of  strength  to  supply 
and  protect  it,  and  Louisburg  is  the  principal  one  for  these  pur- 
poses. 

Trade.  In  1743,  while  this  island  belong-edto  the  French,  they 
caught  l,149,wOO  quintals  of  dry  fish,  and  3,500,000  do.  of  mud 
fish,  the  value  of  both  which,  including  311 6i  tons  of  train  oil^ 
drawn  from  the  blubber,  amounted  to  926,577/.  lOs.  sterling,  ac- 
cording to  the  prime  cost  of  the  fish  at  Newfoundland.  The  whole 
value  of  this  trade,  annually,  at  that  period,  amounted  to  a  million 
sterling.  No  less  tiiun  5  54  ships,  besides  shallops,  and  27,uOO  sea- 
men, were  employed  in  this  trade.  Charlevoix,  in  his  history  of 
France,  says,  "  This  fishery  is  a  more  valuable  source  of  wealth 
and  power  to  France,  tlian  even  the  mii:es  of  Peru  and  Mexico 
would  be."  At  present  ilie  inhabitants  of  tliis  island  take  about 
30,000  quintals  offish,  annually,  which  are  shipped  for  Spain  and 
the  Strait,  piincipally  by  merchants  from  Jersey,  (in England)  who 
yearly  resort  here,  and  keep  stores  of  supplies  for  the  fishermen. 

History.  Though  some  fishermen  had  long  resorted  to  this 
island  evtry  summer,  the  French,  who  took  possession  of  it  in  Au- 
gust, 1713,  were  properly  the  first  settled  inhabitants.  They 
changed  its  name  to  that  of /a/c  Royale. 

This  island  remain<  d  in  possession  of  the  French  till  1745,whea 
it  was  captured  for  the  crown  of  Great  Britain  by  a  body  of  troops 
from  New-England  under  the  command  of  lieutenant  general  Wil- 
liam Peppereli. 


ISLAND  OF  ST.  JOHN. 

Situation  and  Extent.  THIS  island  is  pleasantly  situated  ia 
the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  near  the  northern  coast  of  the  province 
of  Nova-Scotia,  and  is  103  miles  long  and  from  10  to  35  broad. 

Soil  and  Productions.  Its  soil  is  rich  and  watered  by  several 
fine  rivers.  While  the  French  possessed  this  island  it  was  called 
the  granary  of  Canada,  which  it  furnished  with  great  plenty  of  conv 
as  well  as  beef  and  pork. 

Cafntal  Charlotletown  is  its  principal  town  and  is  the  residence 
•f  the  lieutenant  governor,  who  is  the  chief  officer  on  the  island. 

Pofiulation.  The  number  of  inhabitants  at  present  is  estimateit 
at  about  5000. 

Go-vernmKnt,  This  island  is  attached  to  the  province  of  Nova- 
Seotia. 


^4  tNlTED  STATES 

The  other  islands  in  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  worthy  of  notice^ 
are, 

ANTICOSTI,  near  the  mouth  of  St.  Lawrence  river,  about  120 
miles  ion;^  and  30  broad.  It  has  no  convenient  harbor,  and  is  un- 
inhabited. 

The  MAGDALEN  ISLES,  lyinej  in  61  40  W.  Ion.  and  between 
47  13  and  47  42  N.  lat.  and  inhabited  by  a  few  fishermen  These 
islands  were  fornierly  frequented  by  sea-cows,  but  they  are  now 
become  scarce. 

ISLE  PERCEE,  about  15  miles  south  of  cape  Gaspre,  is  a  small 
but  remarkable  island,  being  "  a  perpendicular  rock,  fiierced  with 
2  natural  arches,  through  which  the  sea  flows.  One  of  these  arches 
is  sufficiently  high  to  admit  a  large  boat  to  pass  freely  through  it.** 


UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA.* 

(exclusive    of    LOUISIANA.) 

Extent.  THE  United  States  lie  between  lat.  30°  and  49  3/ 
JS'.t  and  betvgeen  Ion.  67°  and  95  6  W.|  The  distance  Irom  the 
soutliern  bend  of  the  St.  Mary  to  the  parallel  of  the  northern  limit 
of  the  lake  of  the  Woods  is  1390  miles.  The  breadth  of  the  coun- 
try, in  lat.  3 1  °,  is  620  miles  ;  in  lat  36'',  790 ;  in  lat.  42°,  1 130  ;  and 
in  lat.  47°,  1320.  It  contains  about  1,000,000  square  miles,  or 
640,000,000  acres,  of  which  51,000,000  are  supposed,  by  Capt. 
Hutchins,  to  be  covered  with  water. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  Upper  and  Lower  Canada  ;  E.  by 
New-Brunswick  and  the  Atlantic  ;  S.  by  East  and  West-Florida  ; 
W.  by  the  Missisippi,  which  divides  it  from  Lfiuisiana. 

Divisions.  The  Union  originally  consisted  of  13  independent 
States.  It  now  consists  of  17  such  states,  of  1  district,  and  4  Ter- 
ritories ;  exclusive  of  Loui-nana  State  and  Louisia?ia  Ttrritori/, 
which  are  not  a  part  of  the  United  Slates  proper. 

In  common  language,  the  whole  country,  including  Louisiana, 
is  now  divided  into  two  great  sections,  called  T/ie  jVort/icrn  Slates 
and  T/ie  Sout/icr?!  States.  On  the  west,  the  rivrr  Ohio  is  consid- 
ered as  the  boundary  between  them  :  on  the  east,  the  snuihem  lim- 
it of  Pennsylvania  and  Delaivare  This  line  is  fixed  on  for  several 
reasons.  To  the  south  lies  all  tlie  country  which  has  a  tropical 
climate  and  productions,  and  a  broad,  level  pine  barren  along  its 
whole  extent  of  coast.     To  the  south  also  lies  the  whole  of  the 

*  Louisiana  may  now  be  considered  as  part  of  the  United  States ;  but  is  not 
included  within  tiie  following  limits,  but  considered  under  a  separate  head,  as 
an  annexed  territorv. 

f  The  most  southern  bend  of  St.  Mary's  river,  is  in  lat.  30°  N.  and  the  north- 
western extremity  of  the  lake  of  the  Woods,  is  in  lat.  49  S7  N.  (See  I.  JVrKen- 
2ie,72.) 

\  The  District  of  Maine  does  not  go  farther  east  than  Ion.  67°  W.  The  head 
»f  the  Missisippi  is  in  Ion.  95  6  W,  (See  I.  M'Kenzie,  72.) 


OF  AMERICA.  9a 

Slave  Country  and  the  region  in  which  are  found  the  great  body  of 
the  neg-oes. 

By  tiiis  division  the  states  and  territories  are  distributed  as  follows  s 

NORTHERN  STATES. 

Massachusetts  Pennoylvania 

New-Hampshirj5  Michigan  Territory 

Vermont  Illinois  Territory 

Rhode  Island  Ohio 

Connecticut  Indiana  Territon*- 

New-Yurk  Delaware. 

NiiAV-jERSET 

SOUTHERN  STATES, 
Maryland  South-Carolina 

Columbia  District  Georgia 

Virginia  Mississippi  Territory 

Kentucky  Louisiana 

North-Carolina  Louisiana  Territory 

Tennessee 

Original  Po/iulation.  The  aborigines  of  the  Northern  states 
were  the  Moheakanneews,  and  the  Iroquois.  The  Moheakan- 
neews  had  probabiy  been  here  centuries  before  the  Iroquois  in- 
truded upon  them  from  the  northwest.  All  the  Indians  north  of 
the  Potowinac,eastofthe  ISIisslsippi,  and  south  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
except  the  Iroquois,  are  known  to  have  been  tribes  of  this  nation. 
The  tribes  south  of  the  Polowmac  were  the  Cherokecs.,XhQ  Crteksy 
the  Chickasaio.'i.,  Chactaivs,  and  Tuscaroras. 

Moheakanneews.  The  Moheakanneews  of  New-England 
composed  10  distinct  tribes,  speaking  different  dialects  of  the  i>ame 
language.  The  Abenaguis  or  Tarrateens  inhabited  Maine  ;  the 
Pigwackets,  the  eastern  and  southern  parts  of  New-Hampshire  ; 
the  Coos  Indians,  the  western  part  of  that  state  and  the  state  of 
Vermont ;  the  Wampanogas  in  the  old  colony  of  Plymouth  ;  the 
Massachusetts  round  about  Boston  ;  the  Nipnets  in  the  county  of 
Wurcester ;  the  Nashaways,  a  small  tribe  in  the  same  county  ;  the 
Moheakanneews  or  Stockbridge  Indians,  in  the  county  of  Berk- 
shire ;  the  Narragansetts,  in  Rhode-Island  ;  and  the  Pequods,  in 
Connecticut.  For  the  character  and  manners  of  these  Indians  we 
must  refer  our  readers  to  the  writei:s  who  have  treated  of  the  his- 
tory of  New-England. 

iRoquois.  The  Iroquois  occupied  both  sides  of  the  Mohawk, 
and  all  the  western  part  of  the  state  of  New- York,  the  novthAvest- 
ern  parts  of  Pennsylvania,  and  a  part  of  the  country  on  lake  Erie, 
in  the  state  of  Ohio.  Their  territories  comprehended  about  60,000 
square  miles.  Their  influence  however  v/as  felt  through  all  the 
adjoining  country.  They  constituted  6  tribes,  the  Mohawks,  Onei- 
das,  Senecas,  Cayugas,  Onondagas,  and  Tuscaroras.  The  Mo- 
hawks were  the  oldest  and  most  powerful  tribe.  The  Tuscaroras 
"Were  the  youngest.  They  joined  the  confederacy  long  after  th© 
♦thersj  ha'^ing  migrated  from  jS^orth-Carolina. 


S^S  UNITED  STATES 

Historical  Epochs.  1723.  The  British  Government  proposeQ 
to  the  colonies  to  form  one  general  government.  The  object  was 
to  facilitate  the  collection  of  troops.     This  proposal   was  rejected. 

1741.  An  expedition,  British  and  American,  went  against  the 
island  of  Cuba,  but  returned  without  accomplishing  its  object. 

1745.  Louisburg,  a  French  fortress  in  the  island  of  Cape  Breton, 
was  taken,  June  16,  by  an  expedition  from  New-England. 

1754.  A  union  of  the  colonies  under  one  colonial  government 
was  again  proposed,  and  prevented  by  the  colony  of  Connecticut. 

1755.  An  expedition  from  New-England  subdued  the  French 
force  in  Nova-Scotia,  and  reduced  the  province. 

The  same  year  the  British  and  Americans  made  an  unsuccessful 
attempt  to  l^reak  up  the  French  settlements  on  the  Ohio.  General 
Braddock,  their  leader,  was  killed,  and  the  remains  of  his  army- 
saved  by  the  skill  and  bravery  of  col.  Washington. 

The  same  year  a  French  expedition  from  Canada,  commanded 
by  baron  Dicskau,  was  defeated,  on  the  shore  of  lake  George,  by- 
sir  W.  Johnson. 

1765.  The  stamp  act  passed  the  British  Parliament.  This  was 
the  fust  attempt  to  lay  a  direct  tax  on  the  colonies.  The  right  to 
lay  the  tax  was  denied,  and  the  first  colonial  congress  was  conven- 
ed at  New-York,  which  declared  the  rights  and  grievances  of  the 
colonies,  and  presented  a  petition  to  the  king,  and  a  memorial  to 
l)oth  houses  of  parliament. 

1773.  The  destruction  of  the  tea  in  the  town  of  Boston,  and  of 
the  Gaspee  schooner  at  Newport,  took  place. 

1775.  The  battle  of  Lexington  on  the  19th  of  April  roused  all 
America. 

The  provincial  congress  of  Massachusetts  immediately  voted  to 
raise  an  army  of  30,000  men.  On  the  17th  of  June  occurred  the 
battle  of  Brecd's-hill,  so  honorable  to  Atr.erican  valor.  About 
the  same  time,  the  articles  of  confederation  Avere  proposed  by  the 
second  congress  at  Philadelphia.  On  July  2d,  general  Washing- 
ton took  the  command  of  the  American  army. 

1776.  The  British,  March  17th,  were  compelled  to  evacuate 
Boston,  and  sailed  for  Halifax. 

On  July  4ih^  the  colonies  ivere  d''.clared  independent  states.  The 
British  took  possession  of  New-York,  Sept.  15th,  and  in  a  short 
time  the  surrounding  country  fell  into  their  hands.  General 
Washington  retreated  across  the  Delaware. 

1777.  The  Americans  under  gen.  Washington  were  defeated  at 
Brandy  wine,  Sept.  11.  On  the  17th  of  October  gen.  Burgoyne 
surrendered  his  whole  army  to  gen.  Gates. 

1778.  The  treaty  of  alliance  with  France  was  formed,  Feb.  6. 

1780.  The  defeat  ot"  the  Americans  at  the  battle  of  Camden. 

1781.  The  defeat  of  the  British,  under  Tarleton,  by  gen.  Mor- 
gan, a:t  the  battle  of  the  Cow  pens,  on  the  17th  of  January.  On  the 
ath  of  Sept.  defeated  col.  Stewart  at  the  battle  of  Eutaw,  and  clear- 
ed Carolina  of  the  Briiislt  troops. 

On  the  19th  of  October  Cornwallis  surrendered  Itis  army  to  gen» 
V/asliington  in  Virginia.  * 


OF  AMERICA.  &? 

J782,  Peace  was  concluded,  on  the  30th  of  November,  between 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States. 

The  independence  of  America  was  acknowledged  by  Holland, 
April  19,  1782;  by  Sweden,  Feb.  5;  by  Denmark,  Feb  25;  by 
Si)ain,  March  24  ;  by  Russia  in  July,  1773  ;   by  Prussia  in  1785. 

1787,  Sept.  17th.  The  federal  constitution  was  agreed  on  by  del- 
egates from  all  the  states  except  Rhode  island. 

On  tlie  30th  of  April,  1789,  General  Washington  was  inaugurat- 
ed president  of  the  United  Slates  at  Mew-York. 

1803.  Louisiana  was  purchased  of  France  for  15  millions  of  dol- 
lars, and  annexed  to  the  United  Slates. 

1812.  On  the  18th  of  June,  war  was  declared  against  Great 
Britain. 

Religion.  The  constitution  establishes  no  one  form  of  religion, 
but  secures  to  every  citizen  the  free  exercise  of  his  own. 

The  great  body  of  the  people  denominate  themselves  Christians; 
a  small  proportion  of  them  are  Jews. 

The  following  are  the  denominations  of  Christians  :  Congrega- 
tionalists,  Presbyterians,  Episcopalians,  Friends,  Methodists,  Bap- 
tists, German  Lutherans,  Dutch  Reformed,  Roman  Catholics,  Mo- 
ravians, Mennonists,  Tunkers,  Universalists,  and  Shakers. 

The  CoNGREGATiONALiSTS  are  the  most  numerous  denomina- 
tion. There  are  about  1000  congregations  of  this  denomination  in 
New-England,  beside  a  considerable  number  scattered  through  the 
middle  and  southern  states.  Their  whole  number  is  probably  not 
less  than  1 200,  and  nearly  an  equal  number  of  ministers  and  candi- 
dates. 

After  them  Presbyterians  are  the  most  numerous.  They 
have  a  constitution  and  a  confession  of  faith.  Their  supreme  ec- 
clesiastical judicatory  is  styled  The  General  Assembly  of  the  Pres- 
bijteria7i  Church  Subordinate  bodies  are  synods,  presbyteries, 
and  church-sessions.  There  were  withii>  the  bounds  of  the  gen- 
eral assembly  in  1810,  5  synods,  36  presbyteries,  772  congrega- 
tions, and  434  ministers  ;  besides  a  considerable  immber  of  licen- 
tiates.    Few  of  the  Presbyterians  are  found  in  New-England. 

The  number  of  Episcopal  churches  in  1808,  in  the  Northern, 
States,  was  133,  and  of  ministers,  114;  in  the  southern,  105  church^ 
es  and  IN  ministers;  in  all  240  churches  and  225  ministers.  Bish- 
ops have  been  consecrated  in  the  eastern  district,  consisting  of 
Vermont,  New-Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  and  Rhode-Island; 
and  in  Cunnecticut,  New- York,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  Virginia, 
and  South-Carolina. 

The  Friends  compose  about  400  congregations. 

Methodists.  The  great  body  of  this  denomination  live  in  the 
interior  of  the  southern  states,  though  tlicy  are  scattered  through- 
out the  union.  They  style  themselves  Tht  United  Societies  of  the 
Mfthoclist  Efdncofial  Church.  Their  number,  in  1809,  amounted 
to  159,500.*     These  are  the  Wesleian  Methodists. 

The  Baptists  are  independents  in  their  government  and  disol-* 
pline. 

*  Christian  Observer,  ¥111.  670. 
15 


9g.  UNITED  STATES 

Of  this  denomination  there  were  in  1793,  45  associations,  I0o"2 
churches,  '-291  ministers,  and  73,471  members. 

The  Lutherans  have  about  100  c  on  i^  re  gat  ions  in  Pennsylvania 
and  New-York.  Tliey  are  of  German  extraction.  The  German' 
Calvinists  are  about  equally  numerous.  These  two  denomina- 
tions  live  together  in  perfect  harmony. 

Tne  Dutch  Reformed  Church  contains  about  80  congrega- 
tions, coinpo-intf  one  synod  styled  The  Dutch  Reformed  Syyiod  of 
JVew-York  and  J^riv-Jemey. 

The  RoMAisr  Catholics  are  more  numerous  in  Maryland,  than 
in  any  other  state,  fiicy  probably  amount  to  75,000.  They  have 
one  archbishop  in  Baltimore  ;  and  four  bishops  :  one  in  Boston, 
one  in  New  York,  one  in  Piuladclphia,  and  one  in  Bardstown,  Ken- 
tucky. Except  in  MaVyland,  they  arc  found  principally  in  the 
large  cities,  and  are  almost  universally  foreigners,  or  tlicir  imme- 
diate descendants. 

riie  Moravians,  in  1788,  amounted  to  about  2000  souls^  Their 
principal  sntUments  art  Bethlehem,  Nazareth,  and  Litiz  in  Penn- 
sylvania, Hope  in  New-Jersey,  and  Wacho\ia,  on  the  Yadkin,  in 
Korth-Caro'ina.  They  style  themselves  The  United  Brethren  of 
the  Protestant  Efv.scop.ai  Church.  They  were  introduced  into 
America  by  count  Zinzcndorf,  in  )74l. 

The  MENNONisTscame  intoGermantown,  Pennsylvania,  in  1692/ 
That  is  now  their  principal  settlement.  Their  whole  number  in 
that  state,  in  1770,  was  upv/ards  of  4000,  divided  into  13  churches, 
and  42  congregations,  under  the  oare  of  15  clergymen,  and  53  li- 
centiates. 

The  TurncERS.  Their  principal  settlement  is  Ephrata,  60  miles 
T^est  of  Philadelphia.  In  1770  those  in  Pennsylvania  were  2000 
in  number,  beside  a  few  in  Maryland. 

The  Universalis rs  are  of  two  kitids,  the  followers  of  Dr. 
Chauncey,  embracing  many  of  the  Unitarians,  and  those  of  Mr. 
John  Murray.  The  latter  sect  has  a  number  of  churches,  govern- 
ed by  a  constitution  formed  in  1789,  by  a  convention  of  their  min- 
isters at  Philadelphia. 

The  Shakers  Their  principal  settlement  is  at  Nisqucunia, 
above  Albany-  They  have  anot'uer  in  New-Lebanon,  another  at 
Enfield  \\^  Connecticut,  and  one  in  Canterbury  in  New-Hampshire. 

A  still  smaller  sect,  called  Sandemanians,  has  existed  in  the 
United  States,  but  is  now  nearly  extinct. 

The  Jews  are  not  numerous.  Th<  y  have  synagogues  at  New- 
port, New- York,  Phiiadtlplia.  Charleston,  and  Savannah. 

Government.  The  United  States  were  originally  British  colo- 
nies. 

On  the  founh  of  July,  1776,  the  colonies  declared  themselves 
?ree  and  independent.  At  the  same  time,  by  their  delegates 
in  congress,  tiiey  published  articles  of  confederation,  in 
whieh  they  styled  themselves  The  United  States  of  America. 

These  articles,  after  the  vvai  had  ceased  to  give  them  vigour, 
were  found  inadequate.  A  convention  met  in  Philadelphia  in  the 
summer  of  17S7,  cousisting  of  delegates  chosen  by  each  state,  to 


OP  AMERICA.  9,9 

iix  upon  the  necessary  amendments.  This  convention  prof>oscd 
a  C.'ti.stitui.ion,  winch  was  afterwards  adopted  by  the  several  slates, 
anci  whicii,  suice  its  adoption,  has  been  materially  altered. 

The  u  gislative  power  is  lodged  in  a  Congress,  consisting  of  4, 
senaie  :ud\  r.ousc  of  representatives. 

Tilt  Senate  consists  of  two  members  from  eai  h  state,  who 
arc  chosen  by  the  state  It-gislaiure,  and  hold  their  office  6  years. 
The  period  of  service  of  one  ti.irdofthc  seuaiors  tcrmii.atcs  every 
2  years.  A  senator  must  be  30  years  of  age,  and  must  have  been 
a  citizen  of  the  United  States  9  years. 

The  house  of  representatives  consists  of  iBenibers  apportioned 
among  the  several  states  acccraing  to  the  whole  aniouni  of  their 
lu/iitc,  and  to  three  fifths  of  the  aniount  of  their  black.,  population. 
They  are  ci  oscn  by  the  electors  of  the  most  numerous  biancn  of 
the  state  legislature  ;  hold  their  ofSce  2  years  ;  must  be  25  year^ 
of  age  ;  and  must  have  been  7  years  citizens  of  the  United  States. 
Each  state,  at  present,  sends  \  repres^-ntative  tor  every  35,000  per- 
sons, estiinatcii  acccrding  to  the  above  metl.od.  If  the  president 
withhold  his  assent  to  a  hid,  tvcotliirds  of  both  houses  must  ap- 
prove of  it,  or  it  cannot  become  a  law. 

The  exe«  uiive  power  is  vested  in  a  president,  a  vice  president, 
and  oilier  suiiordinate  officers.  The  president  and  vice  president 
hoiil  their  offices  4  years,  'i'hey  are  chosen  by  electors  appointed 
by  each  state  in  sufh  a  manner  as  its  legislature  directs.  Each 
state  has  as  many  electors  as  the  sum  of  its  members  in  I)oth  hous- 
es of  congress.  The  president  and  vice  president  cannot  be  in- 
habitants of  the  same  state,  and  mu=t  be  natives  of  the  U.ited 
States,  or  have  been  citizens  at  the  time  of  the  adoptionof  the  con- 
stitution. Tlie  president  is  commander  in  cnief  of  the  army  a  id 
navy.  The  vice  president  is  president  of  tlie  senate.  The  presi- 
dent and  the  senate  have  the  sole  power  of  uiaking  treaiies. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  supreme  court,  and  such  in- 
ferior courts  as  congress  may  institute.  The  judges  of  all  nation- 
al courts  hold  their  offices  during  good  behavior.  The  senate 
constitutes  a  high  co'urt  uf  imjieachmeni.  A  majority  of  two  thirds 
is  necessary  to  a  conviction.  The  house  of  representatives  has 
the  sole  power  to  impeach. 

Courts.  The  courts  of  the  United  States  are  of  three  kinds,  a 
supreme  court.,  circuit  courts^  and  district  courts.  The  first  is  es- 
tablished by  the  constitution  ;  the  two  last  by  laws  of  congress. 
The  supreme  court  consists  of  a  chief  justice,  and  six  associate 
judges.  It  is  only  a  court  of  appeals,  and  a  court  of  errors.  The 
attorney  general  of  the  United  States  is  the  public  prosecutor  be- 
fore this  court. 

The  circuit  courts  consist  of  a  judge  of  the  supreme  court,  and 
the  district  judge  of  the  state. 

The  United  States,  for  this  purpose,  are  divided  into  7  circuits, 
and  25  districts. 

The  first  circuit  includes  the  districts  of  New-Hampshire,  Mas- 
sachusetts, and  Rhode-Island  ;  the  second,  those  of  Vermont,  Con- 
necticut, and  the  two  districts  of  New- York ;  the  third,  those  of 


lOa  UNITED  STATES. 

New-Jersey  and  Pennsylvania;  the  fourth,  those  of  Maryland  and 
Delaware  ;  the  fifth,  those  of  Virginia  and  Norlh-Caiolina  ;  the 
sixth,  those  of  South-Carolina  and  Geortjia  ;  the  seventh,  those  of' 
Phio,  Kentucky,  and  Tennessee.  Beside  tliese  the  districts  of 
Maine,  Columhia,  Michigan,  Indiana,  Missi'^ippi,  Orleans,  and 
Louisiana,  have  each  disitrict  judges,  though  they  are  not  yet  forjiv- 
ed  into  circuits. 

The  circuit  court  sits  twice  a  year  in  each  district  composing 
the  circuit,  in  one  of  which  the  judge  n"iust  reside.  The  jurisdic- 
tion of  these  courts  is  expressly  limited  by  the  2d  section  of  the  3d 
article  of  the  constitution. 

Zaw«.  The  laws,  to  which  the  citizens  of  the  United  States  are 
subject,  consist  oi  national  and  state  laws. 

The  national  laws  are  all  ivritteij.  They  consist  of  the  consti- 
tution of  the  United  States,  public  treaties,  and  acts  of  congress. 
The  state  laws  are  divided  into  written  and  imivritteii.  The  writ- 
ten are  the  acts  of  the  state  legislatures.  The  unwritten  is  the 
eovimou  law  of  the  state,  where  that  is  ascertamcd.  In  other  cas- 
es, the  common  lavi'  of  England  is  generally  adhered  to  by  the 
state  courts,  where  the  circumstances  of  the  country  do  not  render 
it  inapplicable. 

By  an  act  of  congress,  the  laws  of  the  several  states  are  regard- 
ed as  rules  of  decision  m  trials  at  common  law-,  in  the  courts  of  the 
United  States.  Of  course  the  laAvs  of  the  state  in  which  the  trial 
is  held,  regulate  the  court-  As  part  of  the  laws  of  the  states  are 
■unwritten,  this  act  gives  a  common  law  jurisdiction,  iii  civil  casesy 
to  the  federal  courts.  In  criminal  cases  no  such  provision  exists. 
The  ficnal  code  of  the  United  States  rests,  therefore,  upon  the  con- 
stitution and  acts  of  congress, 

The  state  courts  are  bound,  in  their  decisions,  by  the  national 
laws,  as  well  as  by  the  laws  of  the  state. 

Fcjiulation.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  the  United  States, 
in  1790,  was  2,950,000;  in  1300,  5,505,666;  in  1810,  7,230,514. 
The  increase  in  the  first  ten  years  was  1,355,666,  and  the  ratio  of 
increase  34-y  per  cent.  The  increase  in  the  second  ten  years  was, 
1,924,840,  and  the  ratio  of  increase  ^6^  per  cent. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  United  States  are  composed  of  three 
classes  :  Europeans  and  their  descendants  ;  Africans  and  their  de- 
scendants ;  and  the  Aborigines.  These  classes  are  ranged  accord- 
ing to  thfeir  respective  numbers. 

The  lirst  is  niade  up  of  English^  German,  Dutch,  French,  Irish, 
Scotch,  Swedish,  Svvi:is,  and  Welsh  emigrants  and  their  descend- 
ants 

The  great  mass  of  the  inhabitants  are  of  English  origin  New- 
England  was  settled  entirely  by  Englishmen,  except  a  few  towns 
in  the  hilly  country  of  the  county  of  Hampshire  in  Massachusetts, 
yhich  were  settled  by  a  colony  of  Irishmen  ;  and  a  few  Scotch  and 
Irish  settlements  in  New-Humpshire.  With  these  exceptions  the 
settled  hihabitants  of  New-England  are  even  now  entirely  of  Eng- 
lish origin.  Nor  are  the  occasional  residents  of  a  different  descrip- 
l^oiij  except  heife  and  there  a  straggling  foreigner,  of  some  Euvc- 


OF  AMERICA.  101 

yopean  nation.  The  English  and  their  descendants,  also  consti- 
tute a  large  majority  of  the  wiiite  inhabitants  of  tlie  other  states. 
Probably  niiic  tenths  of  the  inhabitants  of  European  extraction  are 
of  this  description. 

The  Germans  compose  about  one  fourth  part  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Pennsylvania.  Considerable  numbers  of  them  are  also  found  in 
New-York  and  New-Jersey. 

The  Dutch  settled  trhe  state  of  New-York,  and  are  still  conside- 
rably numerous  there.  Numbers  of  them  are  also  found  in  New- 
Jersey  and  Pennsylvania.     They  are  generally  farm<  rs. 

A  small  colony  of  French  Protestants  settled  on  Staten  ibland 
and  at  New-Roclieile  in  the  state  of  New-York.  They  were  supe- 
rior in  their  character  to  most  colonists.  A  number  of  respecta- 
ble French  families  have,  at  various  times,  settled  in  Charltrston, 
S.  Carolina.  A  few  others  of  this  description  are  found  in  New- 
Jersey,  and  other  states.  The  great  bofiy  of  the  later  French  em- 
igrants to  the  United  States,  are  mere  adventurers. 

Tiie  Irish  emigrants  live  principally  in  Pennsylvania.  Consid- 
erable numbers  also  are  found  in  New-York,  New-Jersey,  and 
Kentucky,  and  are  scattered  in  m.ost  parts  of  tlie  United  States. 

The  Scotch  are  generally  industrious,  good  citizens,  well  in- 
formed, honest,  and  moral.  They  have  settlements  in  New- 
Hampshire,  New- York,  New-Jersey,  Pennsylvania  and  North-Ca- 
rolina. 

A  considerable  number  of  Swedes  are  found  in  New-Jersey, 
Pennsylvania,  and  Maryland.  They  are  a  peaceable  and  well  in- 
formed people. 

There  is  a  settlement  of  Swiss  in  the  Indiana  Territory,  who  ra'e 
engaged  in  the  culture  of  grapes,  and  making  wine. 

Several  small  settlements  of  Welsh  emigrants  have  been  made 
in  Pennsylvania  and  New-York.  These  are  a  very  honest,  indus- 
trious, sober  people. 

The  second  class  of  inhabitant^ are  Africans,  brought  here  iii 
slaveships,  or  their  descendants  ;  no  less  than  1,1  85,223,  of  these 
degraded  people  are  still  held  in  slavery  in  this  land  ol  liberty  and 
equal  rights.  Upwards  of  1  86,000  people  of  color  are  freenien. 
Great  numbers  of  those  who  make  up  these  two  classes,  are  but 
partially  of  African  origin.  The  nmlattoes  in  the  low  country  of 
the  southern  states  may  probably,  at  no  distant  period,  outnumber 
the  genuine  blacks. 

The  Aborigines  constitute  a  third  class,  and  are  far  less  nume- 
rous than  either  of  the  others.  A  few  are  found  in  each  of  the 
Kew-England  states,  and  on  the  east  end  of  Long-Island.  These 
have  lost  the  little  respectability,  which  numbers  would  give  them, 
and  are  in  quite  a  degraded  state.  Considerable  numbers  of  the 
Iroquois  still  remain  in  the  state  of  New-York.  They  have  very^ 
valuable  possessions  of  land.  They  are  fast  losing  all  that  charac- 
terized their  fathers.  The£herokees  in  I'ennessee  and  the  Mis- 
sisippi  Territory  are  numerous,  v/ealthy,  and  more  than  half  civil- 
ized. The  same  is  true  of  the  Creeks  in  Georgia.  The  Chicka- 
gaws  and  Choctawa  in  the  Missisippi  territory  are  considerably 


iQ2  UNITED  STATES 

r-umerous.  Michicijan  and  Indiana  Territories  have  considerable 
numbers  of  untamed  Inttians  of  the  Chipevvay  tribe  ;  and  the  lerri- 
lory  northwest  of  tlie  Illinois  and  west  of  lake  Michigan,  their  an- 
cient patrimony,  is  at  present  entirely  possessed  by  Indians.  The 
Avhole  number  of  Indians  in  the  United  States,  probably,  does  not 
exceed  60,000. 

Army.  The  grand  defence  of  the  United  States  consists  in  a 
well  disciplined  militia,  of  about  6  or  7ou,000  men. 

A'avy.  The  navy  of  the  United  States,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
year  1  8  lO  consisted  of  the  following  vessels  ;  3  frigates  ot  44  guns, 
3  of  35,  and  3  of  32,  and  1 1  others  of  smaikr  rank  amounting  to 
5132  guns  in  the  whole. 

Beside  these  there  are  4  bomb-ketches  and  170  gxinboats.  Each 
of  the  gunboats  mounts  1  ii;un.  The  expeace  of  thp  navy  for  the 
year  ending  Sept  3()th,  1810,  was  1,674,735  dollars  50  cents.  The 
appropriation  for  this  department  in  1811  was  1,870,274  dollars. 

Re-vt7iue.  The  revenue  of  the  United  States  arises  from  duties 
on  the  tonnage  of  vessels  entered  at  the  various  custom  houses,  on 
imported  goods,  wares,  and  merchandize,  from  the  sale  of  public: 
lands,  and  on  the  postage  of  letters. 

The  expenditures  in  the  i2  years,  from  March  4,  1789,  to  March 
4,  1801,  were  81,743,688-29  ;  and,  in  the  succeeding  9  years, 
1215239,253-67.  The  receipts  into  tiie  treasury  of  the  United 
Statesduring  the  year  endingSept. 30th,  1811  ,exceedecig  1 3,500,000.* 
The  amount  of  the  revenue  in  ordinary  years  may  be  estimated  at 
14,000,000  of  dollars;  more  than  thirteen  fourteenths  of  which 
arises  from  duties  on  commerce. 

The  original  debt,  in  1791,  was  g75,463,467  ;  the  debt  contract- 
ed since  amounts  to  47,790,481  ;  making  a  total  of  123,253,948  ; 
of  this  sum  there  was  paid  off  before  Jan.  1st,  1811,  72,495,022, 
leaving,  at  that  time,  an  existing  debt  of  53,i72,302-32  ;  which  is 
less  than  th.e  orighia!  debt,  by  22,291,165-20. 

Mint.  The  mint  was  estabUfehcd  in  1791.  The  purity  of  the 
silver  coin  is  the  same  with  that  of  Spain  ;  that  of  the  gold  coin 
with  that  of  the  strictest  European  nations.  The  gold  coins  are 
eagles,  half  eagles,  quarter  eagles,  and  dollars.  The  silver  are 
dollars,  half  dollars,  quarter  dollars,  dimes,  and  half  dimes.  The 
copper  are  cents  and  half  cents.  The  denominations  increase  and 
decrease  in  a  tenfold  proportion.  In  ordinary  computation,  the 
only  denominations  used  are  dollars,  cents,  and  mills.  These  last 
ui'e  merely  nominal. 

Post  Office.  The  amount  of  postage  from  Jan.  1st,  1790,  to 
Oct.  1st,  1809,  was  5,305,093  dollars  ;'  and  the  expenses  of  the  es- 
tablishment 4,549,601  dollars,  55  cents.  The  number  of  post  offi- 
ces in  the  year  1 79 1  was  75,  and  in  1811,  2403. 

Since  the  number  of  post  offices  has  been  so  much  increased, 
and  the  transportation  of  the  mail  so  widely  extended,  this  branch 
of  the  revenue  has  very  much  diminished.  The  amount  of  post- 
age, in  1809,  did  not  equal  the  expense  of  the  establishment. 

t  President's  message,  Nov,  1811. 


OF  AMERICA.  103 

Manners  and  Customa.  The  g;reat  body  of  tlic  inhabitants  oS 
tlie  United  States  are  of  Englisli  origin.  Their  character  and 
manners,  therefore,  are  fornieci  on  the  English  plan,  varying  from 
it  however,  and  from  each  oilier,  in  consequence  of  the  diversities 
in  government,  state  of  society,  wealth,  climate,  and  soil. 

The  governments  of  the  several  states,  and  of  the  union,  are  e- 
lective  and  popular.  Every  officer  and  mai^istrate  is  appointed, 
directly  or  indu'ectly,  by  the  people  They  pass  every  law,  pro- 
pose every  measure,  form  every  tieaty,  and  dispose  of  all  public 
property  4)y  themselves,  or  by  those  whom  they  elect  to  oflice. 
The  effect  of  this  state  of  things  on  public  men  has  been,  on  the 
©ne  hand,  to  check  the  pride  of  place  and  the  insolence  of  office  ; 
and,  on  the  other,  to  persuade  many  of  them  to  descend  to  calum- 
ny, flattery,  trimming,  and  falsehood.  Its  effect  on  the  communi- 
ty at  large  has  been  to  inspire,  on  the  one  hasid,  a  high  sense  of 
personal  independence,  and  a  jealous  care  of  national  freedom  i 
and,  on  the  other,  to  destroy  the  necessaiy  distinctions  in  society, 
and  put  all  men  on  a  level  ;  to  give  importance  to  mere  numbers, 
and  take  it  away  from  intelligence  and  worth  ;  to  divide  the  com- 
munity into  parties,  and  in  a  great  measure  to  break  up  between 
them  the  common  civilities  of  life  ;  to  give  a  degree  of  coarseness 
to  public  manners,  and  to  lower  very  n^uch  ti)e  estimation  of  those, 
which  are  refined;  to  give  newspapers  and  the  most  profligate  oi" 
their  editors,  a  prevailing  influence  over  the  public  sentiment,  and 
thus  to  deluge  the  community  with  calumnies  and  falsehood. 

Languages.  The  English  language  is  almost  imiversally 
spoken.  All  records  are  kept  in  it  throughout  the  country,  and  all 
public  business  transacted.  The  German,  Dutch,  Sv;edish,  Irish,, 
Welsh,  and  French  are  spoken  more  or  less,  and  in  all  of  ihetn 
public  worship  is  in  some  place  or  other  regularly  performed. 

The  German  is  spoken  very  extensively  in  Pennsylvania,  and  ia 
parts  of  New-York. 

Literature.  Few  men,  in  America,  have  originally  sufficient 
property,  to  justify  them  in  devoting  their  lives  to  the  pursuits  of 
literature.  Our  colleges  have  no  well  endowed  i'cllowbhips  to^ 
supply  this  deficiency.  A  government  merely  popular  can  neve? 
extend  to  learning,  any  thing  like  English  patronage.  And  Mae- 
cenases are  indeed  but  rarely  found  in  a  country,  where  wealth  or 
office  is  the  general  object  of  pursuit.  The  corsscqucncc  is  thac 
men  of  learning,  of  the  Erjglinh  ntamfi^  are  seldom  if  ever  found  in 
tlie  United  States.  The  regular  clergy,  however,  are  not,  as  a 
budy^  behind  the  English  clergy  in  theological  or  general  learning. 
Well  informed  men,  and  men  of  liberal  education  are  numeioui 
along  the  sea-coast,  and  in  most  of  the  large  tov/ns  in  the  iiiterior. 
In  no  country  on  the  globe,  except  S<  otland,  is  common  learning 
so  universally  diffused  as  in  New-England.  In  the  best  scniina- 
rics  the  Greek,  Lai  in,  and  Hebrew  languages.  Philology,  Geogra- 
phy, Mathematics,  Natuiil  Pidlosophj,  Chemistry, Logic,  Rhetor- 
ic, and  Theology,  are  taught  l)y  ri;rit;uions  and  lectures  to  .in  ex 
tent  not  surpassed,  in  the  general  course  of  instruction,  at  Oxfjrd 
and  Cambridge. 


1Q4  UNITED  STATES 

Roads.  In  New-England,  the  soil  is  generally  a  hard  loam,  on 
which  the  heaviest  wheels  make  little  or  no  impression.  In  New- 
Vork  it  is  generally  clay.  In  this  respect  New-York  is  unfortu- 
nate. But  ihe  the  whole  of  this  district  is  usually  covered  with 
tJnoAV  in  tiie  winter  The  snow  furnishes  an  easy  way  of  transport- 
ation for  heavy  articies  in  sleighs,  and  prevents  the  necessity  of 
l)sing  the  roads  in  the  opening  of  the  spring.  Below  lat.  36°  the 
roads  arc  never  materially  injured  by  frust,  though  in  the  low 
country,  they  are  much  injurtd  by  rains,  and  the  ground  is  cut  up 
by  wheels  in  the  spring,  so  as  to  render  them,  in  some  places  al- 
most impassable.  Over  this  whole  extent,  from  the  coast  to  100 
or  200  miles  back,  the  country  is  a  dead  level,  and  generally  a 
sandy  plain  with  a  thin  covering  of  soil.  The  roads  in  many  parts, 
arc  a  deep,  heavy  sand,  and  no  stones  or  gravel  can  be  procured 
within  any  suitable  distance,  to  make  them  better.  In  the  back 
country  good  roads  may  generally  be  made  at  no  very  great  ex- 
pence. 

The  great  post  road  of  the  United  States  is  that  leading  from 
Maine  to  Georgia,  in  the  general  direction  of  the  coast,  and  pass- 
ing through  the  principal  sea-ports.  Its  length  is  about  1600 
miles.  This  road  is  generally  good,  as  far  as  Philadelphia  ;  thence 
southward  it  is  in  great  part  indifferent.  It  has  been  proposed  to 
turnpike  this  road  through  its  whole  extent.  The  estimated  ex- 
pence  is  4,800,000  dollars.  This  estimate  is  doubtless  far  below 
the  truth.  Dr.  Ramsay,  in  a  recent  ingenious  publication,  has 
projected  ■a.road  of  healthy  as  he  styles  it,  to  pass  from  Georgia  to 
Maine,  along  the  eastern  foot  of  the  Allegany  mountains,  and  high- 
lands of  New-England. 

Inland  Navigation.  The  great  inland  navigation,  furnished  by 
the  lakes  which  form  the  northern  boundary  of  the  United  States, 
will  appear  obvious  from  an  inspection  of  the  map.  The  chief  in- 
terruptions of  this  navigation,  between  the  bottom  of  lake  Superior 
and  the  gulf  of  St  Lav.rence,  are  the  fails  of  St.  Mary's,  those  of 
Niati;ara,  and  several  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  between  lake  Ontario 
and  IMontrcal.  A  canal,  on  the  British  side,  has  already  been  com- 
pleted around  the  first.  The  expense  of  a  canal  10  miles  in  length 
around  the  falls  of  Niiigara,  large  enough  to  receive  the  vessels  of 
the  lakes,  is  estimated  at  1,000,000  dollars.  The  elevation  of  lake 
Eiie  above  lake  Ontario  is  estimated  at  450  feet,  and  that  of  lake 
Ontario  above  the  river  at  Montreal,  200  feet. 

An  inspection  of  the  map  of  the  United  States  will  shew,  that, 
if  four  inteniiptions  were  removed,  they  would  possess  a  ^?V/e- 
ivater  inland  navigation  from  Massachusetts  to  the  St.  Mary's. 
These  interrujjtions  are  the  tract  between  Boston  harbor  and  Taun- 
ton ;  that  between  lirunsw'ick,  on  the  Raritan,  and  Trenton,  on  the 
Delaware;  that  between  Christiana  Creek  and  Elk  river;  and 
th.at  between  Elizabeth  river,  in  Virguiia,  and  the  Pasquotank,  in 
North-Carolina.  The  whole  distance  across  all  these  tracts  is  9» 
miles.  Were  four  canals  completed  in  these  places,  vessels  might 
pass  from  lioston  harbor  up  the  canal  to  Taunton  river,  down  thai 
)?ver  ar;d  Nairagansett  bay.  and  up  the  Smmd  to  New-York  ;  a- 


OF  AMERICA.  4J&5 

<a*oss  York  bay,  up  the  Raritan,  and  the  canal  to  Trenton  ;  down 
the  Delaware,  along  the  canal,  and  down  the  Chesapeake,  to  Nor- 
folk ;  lip  Elizabeth  river,  and  along  ti  e  canal  to  Pasquotank  ;  and 
thence  i>etwern  the  main  land  and  a  chain  of  islands  to  the  south- 
ern l)oundary  ct  the  country.  The  length  of  ihc  first  canal  v/ould 
he  26  miles,  at  an  csliniaied  expence  of  1,250,000  dollars;  that  of 
tlic  second  28  miles,  at  an  expence  of  800,000  dollars  ;  that  of  the 
third  22  miles,  at  an  expence  of  750,000  dollars  ;  and  tliat  of  the 
fourth  22  naies,  at  an  expence  of  250,000  dollars  :  making  a  total 
of  3,050,000  dollars.  It  should  Le  observed,  however,  that  200,000 
dollars  have  been  laid  out  on  the  third,  and  that  the  fourth  is  al- 
ready completed,  though  not  to  the  necessary  width.  The  expense 
of  liiese  canals  is  estimated  on  the  supposition  that  they  are  to  be 
adapted  to  vessels  drawing  8  feet  water. 

A  cai.ai  has  been  proposed  from  lake  Erie  to  the  Hudson.  The 
distance  is  about  30(J  miles.  The  waters  of  lake  Erie  are  about 
600  feet  higher  than  those  of  the  Hudson,  and  the  canal  is  to  de- 
scend constantly  and  rej^ularly  as  it  proceeds  eastward.  It  is  pro- 
posed that  it  should  pass  over  Genessee  river  in  an  aqueduct,  26 
feet  high  ;  the  mouth  of  Seneca  lake,  in  one  183  feet  high,  and 
that  ol  Cayuga  lake  in  one  1 30  feet  high.  The  state  of  New-York 
is  now  engaged  m  attempting  this  great  national  work,  at  a  calcu- 
lated expense  of  5  millions  of  dodars.  The  object  of  it  is  to  turn 
the  trade  of  the  western  country  from  Montreal,  to  the  city  of  New- 
York. 

Manufacturer.  The  follov^ing  summary  includes  those  manu- 
factures only  whose  value  has  been  ascertained  with  considerable 
accuracy. 

Manufactures  of  wood  -  -  S  20,000,000 

Leather  -  -  -  -         20,000,000 

Soap,  and  tallow  candles  -  -  8,000,000 

Spermaceti  candles  and  oil  -  -  300,000 

Refined  sugar  -  -  -  1,000,000 

Cotton,  wool,  and  flax         -  -  -  40,000,000 

Cards  -  -  -  -  200,000 

Hats  -  -  -  _  10,000,000 

Spiritous  and  malt  liquors  -  -  10,000,000 

Iron  .  .  -  -  13^00,000 


S  123,OwO,000 

The  value  of  manufactures  exported  in  the  year  ending  Sept. 
30th,  1810,  was  2,174,000  dollars. 

Commtrce.  The  trade  of  the  United  States  is  divided  into  fo- 
reign and  domestic. 

The  great  articles  of  exportation  are  cotton,  flour,  wheat,  tobac- 
co, beef,  pork,  lumber,  naval  stores,  fish,  rice,  Indian  corn,  pot  and 
pearl  ashes,  shoes,  candles,  cut  nails,  ardent  spirits,  and  refined  su- 
gars. 

In  the  year  ending  Sept,  30ih,    1810,  the   articles  of  domestic 
growth  export-ed  were  as  follows  i 
3  4 


SOS- 


UNITED  STATES 


Produce  of  the  sea 

the  forest 

agriculture 

Manufactures 
Uncertain 


g  1,481,000- 

4,978,000 

33,502,000 

2,174,000 

231,000 


S  42,366,000 
The  destination  of  all  the  exports  was  as  follows  : 
1.    To  Europe  and  the  Mediterranean. 
Northern  powers  and  Germany  -  -  g  22,010,000' 

Trance  and  Holland  -  -  *  -  120,000 

Great  Britain  ...  -  12,520,000 

Spain  and  Portugal,  Madeira,  Azores,  and  Canaries         1 1,050,000 
Italy,  Trieste,  Levant,  and  Barbary  »  -  2,200,000 


2.    To  all  other  countries. 
riorida  (principally  Amelia  island) 
British  North-American  colonies 
Spanish  America  and  Brazil 
Other  West-Indies  -  -  - 

Sast  of  Cape  of  Good  Hope 


In  the  same  year  the  shipping  of  the  United 
1,350  281  tons. 
Amount  of  the  exports  of  the  United  States. 
Exports.  [ 


S  47,960,000 

S  2,500,000 
1,470,000' 
8,520,000 
4,990,000 
1,300,000 

S  18,860,000 
States  amounted  t» 


Years. 

Domestic 

Foreign 

Total. 

Produce; 

Produce. 

Dolls. 

Dolls. 

Dolls. 

1790 

14,200,900 

1,799,100 

16,000,000 

1791 

14,600,000 

3,799,202 

18,399,202 

1792 

15,060,500 

5,945,068 

21,005,563 

1793 

15.420,900 

10,590,888 

26,011,788 

1794 

16,200,100 

16,843,625 

33,043,725 

1795 

18,064,050 

29,791,506 

47,885,556 

1796 

20,024^02  1 

47,040,076 

67,064,097 

1797 

24,052,671 

27,242,039 

51,294,710 

1798 

27,991.413 

33,335,998 

61,327,411 

1799 

33,142,187 

45,523,335 

78,665,522 

1800 

31,840,903 

3y,  130,877 

70,971,780 

1801 

46.577-.792 

46.642.723 

93,020,515 

1802 

36-  82,173 

35,774,971 

71,957,144 

1803 

42,205,961 

13,594,072 

55,800,033 

1804 

41.467,477 

36,231,597 

77,699,074 

1805 

42, ."87,002 

53,179,019 

95,566,021 

1806 

41,253.727 

60,283,236 

101,536,963 

1807 

48,699,592 

69,643,558 

108,343,150 

1808 

9,433,546 

12,997,414 

22,430,960 

1809 

31,405.702 

20,797,531 

52,203,233. 

!810 

42,366,675 

24,391,295 

6  6,757,9  7  €t 

OF  AMERICA.  W7 

Face  qf  the  Country.  The  United  States,  considered  as  a  coun- 
try, may  with  i"nore  propriety  be  cliaracterized  as  uneven,  tbaa  as 
ievel  or  /lilly.  In  so  extensive  a  tract,  ii<Avevt:r,  no  general  lan- 
guage can  adequately  describe  the  real  state  of  facts.  This  can 
only  be  learned  from  a  more  minute  descriptiun.  New-Eiii^land 
is  generally  hilly  ;  Vermont  is  mountainous  ;  Maine  and  the  east- 
ern coast  of  New-Hampshire  and  Massachusetts  are  only  uneven. 
The  other  northern  states  are  p;  incipaiiy  uneven,  exci  pt  a  broad 
tract  running  from  N.  W.  to  S.  E.  tnrough  the  centre  of  tnis  divis- 
ion, vi^hich  is  mountainous.  In  the  southern  states  a  broad  belt  of 
land  from  100  to  250  miles  wide,  extending  the  wnoie  lengtli  of 
the  coast,  is  a  uniform  dead  level,  and  was  formerly,  witiioui  doubt, 
covered  with  the  ocean.  Back,  of  tliis  the  land  becomes  uneven, 
and  hilly,  and  firally  rises  into  the  mountains,  which  separate  the 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  from  those  of  the  Ohio  and  Missisippi.  Part 
of  Kentucky  and  Tenessee  are  mountainous  ;  while  Georgia  aud 
the  Missisippi  territory  are  level. 

Soil  and  jigriculturc.  About  thirteen  siriteenths  of  the  surface 
of  the  country,  or  520,000,000  acres,  is  covered  vvitn  a  strong,  fei''- 
tile  soil,  fitted,  with  a  moderate  degree  of  cultivation,  abundantly 
to  repay  the  labors  of  the  husbandman.  Of  tJie  remaining  three 
sixteenths,  about  51,000,000  acres  are  ct>vered  with  water  ;  about 
40,000,000  consist  of  a  mountainous  country  ;  which  is  almost  uni- 
versally forested,  and  which,  from  the  nature  of  its  surface,  rathei' 
than  of  its  soil,  is  unfit  for  the  purposes  of  cultivation  ;  and  about 
29,000,000  acres  are  either  sandy,  or  covered  with  so  thin  and  poor 
a  soil,  as  to  offer  slight  encouragement,  except  to  the  mo-it  perfect 
agriculture.  The  acres  of  water  are,  according  to  Mr.  Hutchinsj 
distributed  in  the  foUowiiiij'  manner  : 

Acresu 
In  the  lakes  ,         -         -         -         -  46,340,000 

In  the  bays         -----  2,6f>0,000 

In  the  rivers  .-.,--.  2,ooo,ooo 


51,000,000 
The  principal  barren  tract  is  the  seaboard,  from  New- Jersey 
:SOuthvvard.  Beside  this,  the  greater  part  of  the  state  of  Rhode 
Island,  and  the  southeastern  counties  of  Massachusetts,  are  sandy. 
Of  the  520,000,000  acres  susceptible  of  aclvasita^eous  cultivation, 
only  40,950,000  acres  were  estimated  by  Mr.  Biodget  to  be  under 
actual  improvement,  at  the  beginning  of  the  year  1811.  This 
estimate  we  believe  to  fall  far  short  of  the  truth. 

The  land  of  New-England  is  princii^lly  devoted  to  the  culture 
of  Indian  corn,  grass,  rye,  ous,  flax,  wheat,  buckwheat,  barley,  and 
hemp  ;  and  a  far  greater  proportion  of  Newr-Eiigland  is  under  cul- 
tivation, than  of  either  of  the  other  great  divisions.  The  improved 
land  of  the  middle  states  is  eTnp'oyecl  in  the  cuiiivation  of  wheat, 
Indian  corn,  grass,  oats,  buckwheat,  fiax,  barley,  potatoes,  spelts, 
and  rye.  The  agricultural  productions  of  the  southern  states  arc 
cotton,  wheat,  tobacco,  Indian  corn,  rice,  indigo,  (formerly)  barley, 
and  hemp.     Wc  have  arranged  these  various  articles,  in  the  three 


J108  UNITED  STATES 

great  divisions  of  the  covmtry,  according  to  the  quantity  raised  in 
each,  as  far  as  we  have  been  able  to  ascertain  it.  The  staple  of 
New-England,  is  Indian  covn  ;  that  of  the  middle  states,  wheat  and 
tobacco  ;  and  that  of  the  southern,  cotton  and  rice. 

Bays.  The  Chesapeake  is  a  very  spacious  bay,  200  miles  in 
length,  from  Havre  de  Grace  to  the  southern  extremity,  and  from 
7  to  18  miles  in  breadth  ;  and  covering  1,700,000  acres.  It  is  gen- 
erally as  much  as  9  fathoms  deep,  and  afiords  many  commodious 
harbors,  and  a  saf^and  easy  navigation.  Tliis  bay  receives  the 
waters  of  the  Susquchannah,  Potowmac,  Rappahannock,  York, 
and  James  rivers,  besides  numberless  suiailer  streams  both  from 
the  eastern  and  western  shores.  It  opens,  from  the  west,  into  the 
Atlantic,  by  ji  mouth  12  miles  wide,  between  cape  Charles  and 
cape  Henry  ;  the  former  in  lat.  37  12,  the  latter  in  37°  N.  both  in 
Virginia. 

Delaitake  Bay  separates  New-Jersey  from  Delaware.  It  is 
65  miles  long  from  Fisher's  Point  to  cape  Hcnlopen  ;  and,  in  the 
broadest  part,  30  miles  wide  ;  containing  630,000  acres  It  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  no  large  river,  except  the  Delaware.  It  opens, 
from  the  N.  W.  Into  the  Atlantic,  between  cape  May,  in  New- 
Jersey,  in  lat  38  55,  and  cape  Henlopen,in  Delav/are,  in  lat.  58  47, 
by  a  mouth  20  miles  bror>d. 

MASSACHUs-iiTTs  Ba'v  is  a  part  of  the  ocean  putting  up  between 
cape  Anne  and  cape  Cod.  Its  length  is  about  60  miles,  and  the 
distance  of  the  two  capes  45.  It  stretches  from  N.  W.  to  S.  E. 
The  southeastern  part  is  called  Barnstable  bay 

Narragakset  Bay,  in  Rhode  Island,  is  35  miles  long.  It  cov- 
ers an  area  of  about  185,600  acres.  It  communicates  with  the 
ocean  between  point  Judith,  on  the  west,  and  point  Seaconet,  on 
the  east.     Its  bearing  is  from  N.  to  S. 

Sounds.  Long  Island  Sound,  between  Connecticut  and  New- 
York  on  the  north,  and  Long  Island  on  the  south,  is  !40  miles  long, 
and  from  3  to  25  broad.  It  has  two  communications  with  the 
ocean.  The  eastern  is  broad  and  unobstructed.  At  the  west  end 
by  a  narrow  strait,  1  mile  wide,  opposite  New-York,  it  communi- 
cates with  York  bay,  and  througli  that  with  the  ocean,  at  Sajidy 
Hook.  The  sound  affords  a  very  safe  and  convenient  inland  navi- 
gation. 

Pamiico  Sor :ci>  lies  betv/cen  the  eastern  shore  of  North-Caro- 
lina, and  a  chain  of  sand  islands,  which  stretch  along  the  shore  of 
that  state  through  half  its  extent.  The  southern  purt  of  this  body 
of  water  is  commonly  designated  by  this  name  ;  but  there  is  evi- 
dently nothing  which  intervt>nes  to  separate  it  from  the  nortliern 
part.  Tal:en  in  its  whole  extent,  from  its  northern  extremity  in 
Princess  Anne  county  in  Virginia,  to  cape  Lookout,  it  is  not  less 
than  200  miles  long.  Its  breadth  varies  from  S  to  20  miles. 
Ocrecoc  is  the  only  inlcl  that  will  admit  vessels  cf  burden.  There 
Ss  here  14  feet  v.ater  at  lov/  tide.  Six  miles  v^itivin  this  inlet  there 
is  a  hard  saiid  slioal,  called  the  SivasA,  lyi»gr  '^'^ross  the  channel. 
Oil  t;iis  there  h  only  9  feet  water  at  full  tide.  Ships  drawing  10 
^feet  water  lind  ^ood  anchorage  between  the  inlet  and  the  sound 


OF  AMERICA.  109 

There  are  bars  at  the  mouths  of  all  these  uilets,  which  arc  perpet- 
ually shifting  their  places.  Pamlico  sound  receives  the  waters  of 
Chowan,  Roanoke,  Pamlico,  and  Neus  rivers. 

Albemarle  Sound  puts  up  from  Pamlico,  into  North-Carolina, 
a  distance  of  60  miles.  It  is  from  8  to  12  miles  broad.  It  is  the 
estuary  of  the  rivers  Roanoke  and  Chowan- 

Capes.  The  raost  noted  capes  in  the  United  Stales  are  capo 
Anne,  cape  Cod,  cape  Malabar,  Montauk  Point,  Sandy  Hook,  cape 
May,  cape  Henlopcn,  cape  Charles,  cape  Henry,  cape  Hattcras, 
cape  Lookout,  and  cape  Fear. 

Rivers.  The  northern  and  western  frontiers,  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  the  Missisippi,  have  already  been  described. 

The  largest  river  nvifhin  the  UPiited  Stales  is  the  Ohio.  It  first 
receives  this  name  at  Pittsburg-,  at  the  junction  of  the  Allegany 
and  Monongahela.  The  Allegany  heads  in  the  Allegany  moun- 
tains in  Pennsylvania.,  near  the  sources  of  the  Gencssee  and  Tyoga. 
Its  whole  length  is  not  less  than  400  miles.  It  is  navigable  for  a 
distance  of  200  miles  from  Pittsburg.  The  Monongahela  rises  in 
Virginia,  west  of  the  Laurel  range,  near  the  head  waters  of  the 
Poiowmac  and  the  Greenbriar.  Its  whole  length  is  about  300 
miles,  and  it  is  a  smaller  stream  than  the  Aiiegany.  They 
imite,  as  has  been  already  mentioned  at  Pittsl)urg,  and  forn\  th« 
Ohio.  The  Ohio  is  a  most  beautiful  river.  Us  current  is  gentle  ; 
its  waters  are  clear;  and  its  surface,  with  scarcely  an  exception, 
unbroken  by  rocks  or  rapids.  Its  v>'idth  at  Pittsburg  is  440  yards. 
Its  average  width  through  the  whole  course  is  about  600  yards. 
Its  length,  as  measured  according  to  its  various  meanders,  is  1033 
miles.  It  affords,  in  the  spring,  30  or  40  feet  water  to  Louisviiio 
401  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  and  a  sufficiency  at  ail  times  for  boats 
to  Pittsburg.  The  only  serious  obstruction  in  the  river  is  the  rap- 
ids at  Louisville,  in  lat  38  8.  The  whole  descent  at  these  rapids, 
in  the  summer  is  22  feet.     It  is  proposed  to  canal  these  falls. 

The  Illinois  is  considerably  longer  and  larger  than  the  Wabash. 
It  rises  in  tiic  N.  E.  part  of  Indiana  territory  S.  E.  of  lake  Michi- 
gan, flows  through  a  very  pleasant,  fertile  country,  and  falls  into 
the  Missisippi,  20  miles  above  the  junction  of  tiiai  river  with  thtt 
Missouri,  and  204  miles  above  the  Oliio.*  Its  current  throiiglwut 
is  gentle,  and  it  is  navigable  450  miles.  It  is  400  yards  wide  at 
its  mouth. t 

The  great  branches  of  the  Ohioare  the  Wabash,  the  Cumberland, 
and  Tennessee. 

The  Tennessee  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  two  branches, 
the  northern  and  southern.  The  northern  rises  in  the  western 
mountains  of  Virginia,  in  lat.  37°.  It  is  called  the  Holston.  It 
runs  about  340  miles  before  the  confluence,  and  is  navigable  for 
boats  240,  to  Long  Island.  The  southern  branch,  called  tl.e  Ten- 
nessee, rises  in  the  northern  mountains  of  Georgia,  and  after  run- 
ning about  the  same  distance,  unites  with  the  Holston,  30  miles 
below  Kuoxville.     The  united  stream  pursues  a  west  course  40 

•  ScbulU!,  lib  29i  4?,  t  Idem,  42» 


UQ  UNITED  STATES 

miles,  and  receives  the  Clinch  from  the  north  ;  then  turning  south- 
vest,  in  60  miles  it  receives  the  Hivvassee  from  the  south,  66  miles 
above  the  Suck  or  Whirls  where  the  river  breaks  through  the  Cum- 
berland mountain.  The  river  from  this  place  to  the  Muscle  Shoals, 
a  distance  of  250  miles,  is  uniformly  smooth  and  unobstructed, 
'i'hese  are  20  miles  in  length.  Hence  to  the  mouth,  a  distance  of 
250  miles,  the  river  is  navigable  throughout  the  year.  The  Ten- 
nessee uniies  with  the  Ohio  57  miles  from  its  mouth.  Its  whole 
length  is  1026  miles.  It  was  called  by  the  French  the  Cherokee  ; 
and  the  whole  river  was  formerly  called  by  the  Americans  the 
Uolston. 

Cumberland  river,  rises  in  the  Cumberland  mountains  in  the 
S.  E.  part  of  Kentucky.  From  its  source  to  the  falls  is  about  100 
miles;  and  to  this  place  it  is  navigable  for  boats.  After  running 
100  miles  farther  it  enters  the  state  of  Tennessee,  and  puisues  a 
S.  W.  course  to  Nashville,  200  miles.  There  turning  to  the  N. 
W.  it  runs  200  miles  farther,  and  enters  the  Ohio,  12  miles  above 
the  Tennessee.  Is  is  300  yards  wide  at  the  mouth.  It  is  naviga- 
ble for  large  vessels  to  Obed's  river,  90  miles  above  Nashville.  Its 
whole  length  is  about  600  miles. 

The  Wabash,  a  northern  branch  of  the  Ohio,  is  a  beautiful  riv- 
er v/ith  high  and  fertile  banks.  Its  whole  length  is  from  650  to 
700  miles.  It  is  navigable  at  all  seasons  for  boats  drawing  3  feet 
water,  412  miles,  to  Ouiatanon,  a  small  French  settlement  on  the 
■west  side  of  the  river,  and  for  large  canoes  197  miles  farther,  to 
the  Miami  carrying  place,  9  miles  from  the  Miami  village.  This 
village  stands  on  the  JSIiami  of  the  Lakes  ^  which  empties  into  the 
west  end  of  lake  Eric.  The  communication  between  Detroit  and 
the  Illinois  and  Oliio  countries,  is  up  Miami  river,  across  the  car- 
rying place  9  miles,  when  the  rivers  are  high,  and  from  18  to  30, 
when  they  are  low,  and  down  the  Wabash  to  the  Ohio.  Tiie 
inouth  of  the  Wabash  is  270  yards  wide,  and  is  146  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohio. 

The  large  Atlantic  rivers  will  be  described  in  their  geographic- 
al order. 

The  Connecticut  is  the  great  river  of  Nevv'-England.  Its 
principal  branch  rises  in  New-Hampshire,  runs  north  across  the 
boundary  of  Canada,  and,  making  a  large  semicircular  bend,  turns 
southward.  About  14  miles  north  of  the  45th  degree,  it  is  joined 
by  the  western  branch  called  Indian  river.  The  course  of  the  Con- 
necticut is  on  the  v/hole  west  of  south.  After  crossing  the  line,  it 
divides  the  states  of  Vermont  and  Nev/-Hampshire,  and  passes 
through  those  of  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut.  Its  whole  length 
is  410  miles.  There  are  6  falls  hi  this  river,  viz.  the  Fifteen  Mile 
falls  between  Littleton  and  Dalton,  in  lat.  44  25  ;  the  falls  at  Han- 
over ;  Bellows's  falls  at  Walpole,  44  feet ;  Miller's  falls  at  Monta- 
gue, 66  feet ;  the  falls  at  South  Hadley,  about  70  feet,  and  the  falls 
at  Enfield.  The  river  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  10  feet  wa- 
ter 36  miles  to  Middietown  ;  and  for  small  sloops,  50  miles  to 
Hartford.  By  means  of  canals  it  has  been  rendered  passable  tor 
boats  to  Barnetj  at  the  foot  of  the  Fifteen  Mile  fallsj  about  250 


6F  AMERICA.  11? 

miles  above  Hartford,  following  the  windings  of  the  river.  Proba- 
bly no  river  of  the  same  extent  has  more  interval  land  than  the 
Connecticut ;  and  we  believe  that  none  of  the  Atlantic  livers  ia 
the  Uniicr.  States,  except  the  James,  Susquehannah,  and  the  Po- 
towmar,  empty  more  water  into  the  ocean. 

The  Hudson  is  principally  a  long,  narrow  arm  of  the  sea.  It 
rises  m  tiie  northern  part  of  New-York,  between  lake  Champlaiii 
and  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  a  remarkably  straight  river,  and  its 
course  is  from  N.  to  S.  Its  length  is  230  miles.  It  is  navigable 
for  siiips,  1  oO  miles,  to  Hudson  ;  and  for  sloops  of  30  tons,  50  miles 
further,  to  Albany.  The  tide  in  this  river  flows  more  than  16(? 
miles.  There  are  two  falls  between  Albany  and  fort  Edward. 
They  are  the  only  obstructions  to  the  passage  of  boats  for  the  dis- 
tance of  50  miles.  About  30  miles  from  the  ocean  the  river  divides, 
and  embosoms  the  island  of  Manhattan,  on  which  stands  the  city 
of  N^w-York.. 

riie  Delaware  rises  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  New-York,  near  the 
heaci  wat'-rsof  .the  Si/squehannah,  and  of  the  Schoharie,  a  branch  of 
the  Mohawk.  It  empties,  through  Delaware  bay,  into  the  ocean  - 
and  may  be  considered  as  terminating  about  5  miles  below  New- 
castle, in  DeiavvLire,  or  40  miles  below  Philadelphia.  To  tliis  last 
oil)'  it  is  navigable  for  a  74  gun  ship,  for  sloops  35  miles  further  to 
Ti-  nton  fails,  for  boats  of  8  or  9  tons,  100  miles  further.  The 
whole  length  of  the  Dciaware,  from  its  source  to  the  bay,  is  about 
300  miles  ;  and  the  distance  thence  to  the  ocean  is  65.  The  tide 
rises  to  the  foot  of  Trenton  fails. 

The  SusquEKANNAH  rises  in  lakes  Otsego  and  Otcgo,  in  New- 
York,  about  20  miles  from  the  Mohawk.  It  crosses  the  Pennsyl- 
vania line  three  times,  and  is  crooked  in  every  part  of  its  course. 
Batteaux  ascend  the  Susquehannah  to  the  lakes  in  which  it  rises. 
The  Susquehannah  empties  into  the  Chesapeak.  at  Ha.vre  des 
Grace.  The  distance  fiom  its  source  to  its  mouth  is  about  40O 
miles,  from  its  mouth,  across  Chesapeak  bay,  to  the  ocean,  200. 
Tlie  Susquehannah  empties  more  water  into  the  ocean,  than  any 
of  the  Atlantic  rivers  within  the  United  States. 

Tiic  PoTowMAC,  from  its  source,  is  the  boundary  between  Ma- 
ryland and  Virginia.  It  rises  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Monon- 
gahela.  The  course  of  the  river,  from  its  source  to  Cumberland, 
is  N.  E  and  its  length  about  140  miles.  Its  course  thence  is  S.  E. 
Cutnberland  is  188  miles  above  tide  water,  and  »91  above  the  citv 
of  Washington.  The  distance  of  Washington  from  the  mouth  ot 
th'.  Puto'.vmac,  in  the  Chesapeak,  is  300  miles.  Its  width  at  the. 
mouth  IS  7^  miles,  and  li  at  yViexandria. 

James  river,  in  Virginia,  rises  at  no  great  distance  from  the 
head  waters  of  the  Potowmac,  the  Mouongahela,  and  t!ie  Green- 
briar,  a  oranch  of  the  Great  Kaniiawa.  For  about  80  miles  it  runs 
S.  W.  parallel  with  the  Allegany  range.  It  then  turns  and  pui- 
snes a  course  a  little  S.  of  E,  till  it  falls  into  the  southern  extremi- 
ty ot"  Chesapeak  bay.  This  is  the  seconil  of  the  Ailantic  rivers, 
and  naturally  tne  most  navigable  of  n!j.  A  40  gun  ship  can  go  ujk 
to  Jamestown  ;  vessels  of  250  tons  to  Warwick  ;  and  those  »f  125 


il'2  UNITED  STATES 

tons  to  Rockets,  a  mile  below  Richmond.  Thence  there  is  7  feet 
water  to  the  town. 

The  Roanoke  is  fon-ned  hy  two  branches,  the  Staunton  and  the 
Dan.  Both  rise  in  the  Allegany  range,  the  former  in  Virginia,  the 
latter  in  North-Carolina,  a  small  distance  Ironi  the  Virginia  line. 
They  unite  a  few  miles  from  that  line  in  Virginia,  and  forming  the 
Roanoke  pursue  a  southeasterly  course  to  Albemarle  sound.  It  is 
navigable  only  for  siiallops,  and  for  these  not  more  than  60  or  70 
miles,  on  account  of  the  falls  in  the  back  country. 

The  sources  of  the  Pedee  are  in  the  Allegany  range,  at  no  great 
distance  from  those  of  the  Kanhawa  and  Tennessee.  Its  course  is 
S.  E.  It  is  called  the  Yadkin  from  its  source  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Uwharre,  a  few  miles  below  the  narrows  ;  and  the  Pedee  thence  to 
the  ocean.  It  is  navigable  for  sloops  of  70  tons,  about  130  miles, 
to  Greenville,  and  for  smaller  boats  to  Chatham,  20  miles  higher. 

The  Santee  is  larger  and  longer  than  the  Pedee.  Their 
sources  are  in  the  same  range,  at  a  small  distance  apart.  It  is 
called  the  Cataioba  in  Nortli-Carolina,  and  tl'.e  Santee  in  South- 
Carolina.  It  is  navigable  for  sloops  of  70  tons  to  Camden,  140 
miles.  The  Santee  runs  aboui  240  miics  in  Soutli-Carolina.  It 
empties  into  Winyaw  bay  12  miles  below  Georgetown.  Its  course 
is  S.  E.  It  is  connected  by  a  canal  with  Cooper  river,  which  emp- 
ties into  Charleston  harbor. 

The  Savannah  is  somewhat  longer  than  the  Santee.  It  is  form- 
ed by  the  confluence  of  the  Keowee  and  the  Tuguio,  both  of  vihich 
rise  in  the  Allegany  range,  near  the  North-Carolina  line.  The 
course  of  the  Savannah  is  S.  E.  It  is  navigable  for  large  vessels 
to  Savannah,  17  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  for  boats  of  100  feet 
keel  to  Augusta,  which,  by  water  is  340  miles  above  Savannah, 
(127  by  land.)  The  whole  length  of  the  Savannah  is  probably  from 
430  to  470  miles. 

The  Alatamaha  rises  near  the  Savannah,  in  the  same  range  of 
mountains.  It  is  formed  by  tiie  waters  of  the  Okmulgee  and  the 
Oconee.     The  whole  length  of  the  Alatamaha  is  aI>out  500  miles. 

These  are  all  the  large  rivers  of  tiie  United  States,  which  fall 
directly  into  the  Atlantic.  There  are  two  others,  tlie  Apaliehico- 
ia,  and  the  Mobille,  which  empty  into  the  gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  Apalachicola  rises  in  the  northern  part  of  Georgia.  Fov 
a  considerable  part  of  its  course,  it  serves  as  a  boundary  between 
Georgia  and  tl.e  Missisippi  territory  ;  afterwards,  for  a  small  dis- 
tance, between  Georgia  and  West  Florida  ;  and,  south  of  Flint' 
river,  between  West  Florida  and  East  Florida.  This  river  is  lon- 
ger than  the  Alatamalia.  It  is  navigable  for  boats  and  gallies  some 
distance  higher  than  lat.  Sl°N.  Little,  however,  is  known  re- 
specting it. 

The  iSlojjiLLE,  40  miles  from  its  mouth,  branches  into  the  Ali- 
bama  and  tiic  Tombigbee.  These  rivers  are  each  about  400  miles 
in  length.  The  Alibama  rises  in  Georgia,  near  the  Hiwasse,  a 
branch  of  the  Tennessee  ;  its  course  is  S.  W.  The  Tombigbee  rises 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  Missisippi  territory,  near  t!je  sources 
cf  the  Yazco,     It  is  navigable,  for  schooners,  about  60  or  80  miles  ; 


OF  AMERICA.  HS 

and,  for  boats,  it  is  said  to  be  passable  nearly  its  whole  lenc^th.  Its' 
course  is  a  little  E.  of  S.  The  Mobiile,  after  tlie  junction,  runs  S. 
40  miles,  and  empties  into  Mobiile  buy,  and  ilirough  that,  into  the 
gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  smaller  rivers  v/ill  be  described  in  our  account  of  the  sep- 
arate stales. 

Lakes.  In  our  account  of  America  we  described  the  lake  of 
the  Woods,  Rainy  lake,  lakes  Superior,  Michi;^an,  Huron,  St. 
Clair,  Erie,  and  Ontario.  All  these,  except  Michii^an,  are  half  in 
Upper  Canada,  and  half  in  the  United  States.  Michigan  lies 
wholly  within  the  United  States. 

Lake  Champlain  lies  between  the  states  of  Vermont  and  New- 
York.  From  Skeensborough,  at  the  southern  extremity,  to  lat.  45°y 
it  is  100  miles  long.  Its  breadth  varies  from  1  to  25  miles.  In 
lat.  45°  it  narrows  to  a  river,  called  tlie  Sorellc,  which  after  a  course 
of  100  miles  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence  between  Montreal  and 
Quebec. 

i^iwarAfm.  These  are  not  very  numerous,  and  are  principally 
found  in  the  southern  states. 

Okefonoke  is  a  large  swamp  in  the  southeast  extremity  of 
Georgia 

Dismal.  This  is  a  large  swamp  in  the  eastern  part  of  Virginia 
and  North-Carolina.  It  occupies  a  surface  of  about  150,000  acres, 
generally  covered  with  trees  ;  in  the  moist  parts  with  juniper  and 
cypress  ;  and  in  those  th-at  are  drier  with  white  and  red  oak,  and 
several  species  of  pines.  These  forests  abound  with  bears,  wolves, 
and  deer;  and,  unlike  most  of  the  southern  forests,  are  tilled  with 
underbrush.  The  Chesapeak  and  Albemarle  canal  passes  through 
it;  and  is  fed  by  a  lake  in  the  swamp,  called  lake  Diummond, 
whicii  is  15  miles  in  circumference,  and  6  feet  higher  than  the  wa- 
ter of  the  canal.  The  southern  part  of  the  swamp  proves  excel- 
lent rice  land ;  and  is,  at  the  same  time,  said  to  be  healthy. 

Alligator.  This,  also,  is  in  tiie  eastern  part  of  North-Caroli- 
na, in  CuiTituc  county,  south  of  Albemarle  sound.  Near  the  cen- 
tre it  contains  a  large  lake  ;  the  waters  of  whicli  are  conducted  by 
an  artificial  canal  to  the  Skuppernong.  The  object  cf  this  canal 
was  to  drain  the  swamp,  and  a  large  number  of  acres  round  the 
lake  have  thus  been  converted  into  an  excellent  rice  plantation. 
It  is  very  large  ;  but  we  are  unable  to  form  aviy  exact  estimate  of 
its  extent. 

Mountains.  The  principal  chain  of  mountains  in  the  United 
States,  is  the  Apalachian.  It  consists  of  two  principal  ranges, 
and  i';s  w''ole  breadth  may  be  estimated  at  1  LO  miles. 

The  western,  or  Allegany,  preserves  a  distance  of  from  250  to 
300  miles  from  the  coast.  Its  southern  extremity  is  near  the  great 
bend  ot  the  Teuessee,  where  it  is  called  the  Cumberland  moun- 
tains. It  pursues  a  northeasterly  course  through  Virginia,  and  a 
part  of  Pennsylvania,  to  the  sources  of  the  Susquehannah,  where  it 
assumes  a  more  easterly  direction,  till  it  teiminates.  uiicier  the 
name  of  the  Catskili  mountain,  within  5  miles  of  the  Hudson.  The 
Catskill  mountain  is  the  highest  in  the  ran;j,c  and  is  the  only   high 


!14r  UNITED  STATES 

mountain  in  it  north  of  Virejinia.     The  range  in  Virginia  and  Ten- 
nessee is  considerably  elevated. 

The  eastern  or  Blue  ridge  is  narrower  than  the  western,  and 
parallel  with  it.  Its  northern  extremity  is  the  hii;hlands  at  West 
Point.  In  its  southwest  course  it  traverses  under  various  names, 
New-York,  New-Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  and  Virginia. 
0n  the  borders  of  North-Carolina  it  is  joined  by  a  spur  from  the 
Avestern  range,  and  thence  to  its  southern  extremity,  60  miles- 
south  of  the  northern  line  of  Georgia,  becomes  the  principal  mou.n- 
tain. 

Between  these  two  ranges  lies  the  fertile  limestone  -vaalley,  which, 
although  occasionally  interrupted  by  transversal  ridges,  and  in  one 
place  by  the  dividing  or  Allegany  ridge,  may  yet  be  traced  from' 
Newburgh  and  Esopus,  on  the  Hudson,  to  Knoxville  en  the  Ten- 
Hcssee. 

In  Virginia,  east  of  the  Blue  ridge  and  parallel  with  it,  is  a  lov/ 
j^ange  called  the  South  mountains  ;  and  west  of  the  Allegany  range 
is  another,  called  the  Laurel  mountains.  These  are  short  com- 
pared with  the  other,  and  of  so  moderate  a  height,  that  they  only 
serve  to  break  the  descent  from  the  two  principal  ranges,  to  the 
country  below  them. 

The  mountains  of  New-England  are  either  long  ranges,  or  sep» 
arate  summits.  The  western  or  Taghconntuc  range,  begins  at 
Ridgefield,  in  the  county  of  Fairfield,  in  Connecticut,  12  miles  from 
Long  Island  sound,  and  passing  through  the  counties  of  Litchfield 
and  Berkshire,  may  be  said  to  unite  v/ith  the  Green  mountains  at 
Williamstown,  in  Massachusetts,  being  there  separated  only  by  the 
iiarrow  valley  of  Hoosac  river.  The  highest  summit  in  this  range 
is-  Taghconnuc  mountain,  in  Egremont,  in  the  southwest  corner 
of  Massachusetts      It  is  probably  upwards  of  3000  feet  high. 

The  CiRKEN  mountain  range  begins  at  New-Haven,  two  miles- 
from  the  sound,  in  a  noble  bluff  called  JVest  Rock,  and  extends 
thence  to  the  Canada  line  ;  sloping,  however,  with  a  gradtial  de- 
clension in  the  northern  parts  of  Vermont,  and  in  Canadabecoming 
merely  a  collection  of  small  hills  The  two  highest  summits  of  this 
range  are  the  Camel's  Rump,  and  the  mountain  of  Mansfield,  both 
in  the  county  of  Chittenden,  in  Vermont,  and  both  probably  up- 
wards of  5000  feet  high. 

The  Mount  Tom  range  commences  also  at  New-Haven,  at 
another  precipice  called  East  Rock,  two  miles  from  the  sound  ; 
and  passing  through  the  counties  of  New-FIaven,  Hartford,  and 
Hampsliire,  extends  into  Canada  through  tiie  whole  length  of  the 
state  of  Ntw-Hampshire.  Connecticut  river  breaks  through  this 
3*ange  below  Northampton,  in  Massachusetts.  Ti.e  Blue  hills  in 
Southington,  Connecticut ;  Mount  Tom  and  Mount  Holyoke  in 
the  vicinity  of  Northampton  and  Hadley  ;  and  Mount  Toby  in  Sun- 
derland, are  the  principal  su)nmits. 

The  Lyme  range  begins  at  Lyme  near  the  mouth  of  Connecticut 
river,  and  unites  with  the  Mount  Tom  range  after  it  has  crossed 
t^iat  river  in  the  county  of  Hampshire  It  hiis  no  remarkable  sum- 
mita,  and  never  rises  to  any  considerable  height 


OF  AMERICA.  115 

The  White  mountains  in  New-Hampshire  are  a  round  clump 
with  numerous  summits,  loosely  connected  with  the  Mount  Tom 
range,  which  passes  somewhat  webtof  them.  Mount  VVuMn'^toyi^ 
the  highest  of  these  summits,  is  said  to  be  more  than  11, (.'00  feet 
uhove  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  far  higher  than  any  other  land  in 
the  United  States.  It  is  covered  a  great  pait  of  the  ytar  with 
siiow,  and  in  this  situation  is  seen  90  miles  ai  sea,  and  160  from  its 
b-.ise.  The  Pondiclurry  mountains,  a  shori  but  lotty  spur  from  the 
W'lite  mountains  on  the  northwest,  may  be  considered  as  connect- 
int-;  tliem  with  tne  Mount  Tom  range. 

T  ere  is  a  characteristic  difference  between  the  mountains  of 
JSTtw -England,  and  the  Apalachian  ranges.  The  former  j-un  par- 
aiki  with  the  great  rivers  of  the  country  and  perptndicuiarly  to 
thi-  loast.  Tlie  latter  run  parallel  with  the  coast,  and  transverse- 
ly to  the  courses  of  the  rivers. 

Zoology.  America  contains  at  least  one  half,  and  the  United 
Spates,  about  one  fourth  of  the  quadrupeds  of  the  known  worid. 
Si)nie  of  them  are  common  to  both  continents  ;  others  are  peculiar 
to  the  western.  Comparing  individuals  of  the  same  species,  in  the 
two  contintnts,  some  arc  perfectly  similar;  between  others  there  is 
some  difference  jn  size,  color,  or  other  circumstances  ;  in  a  few 
instances  the  animal  of  the  eastern  contment  is  larger  than  the 
Anierican;  in  most  the  reverse  is  the  case.  The  following  is  u 
catalogue  of  the  cjiuadrupeds  in  the  Uniied  States.* 

Mammoth  *  Sallow  Cougar*  Woodcbuclc     *  American  Rat 

*  Bison  *  Grey  Cougar       Urchin  *  Slirew  Mouse 

*  Muose  *  Mountain  Cat  *  Hare  *  Purple  Mole 

*  Caribou  *  Lynx  *  Racoon  *  B.dck  Mole 

*  Red  Deer  *  Kincajou  *  Fox  Squirrel    *  Water  Rat 

*  Fallow  Deer  *  Weasel  *  Grey  Squirrel  *  Beaver 

*  Roe  *  Ermine  *  Red  Squirrel   *  Musquasls 

*  Bear  *  Martin  *  Striped  Squir.*  Morse 

*  Wolverene  *  Mink  *  Flyhig  Squir.  *  Seal 

*  Wolf  *  Otter  *  Field  Mouse       Maniti 

*  Fox  *  Fisher  Bat  Sapajou 
'■*  Catamount  *  Skunk  *  Ground  Mouse    Sagoin 

*  Spotted  Tygcr*  Opossum  *  Wood  Rat 

A  description  of  these  animals  may  be  found  in  the  American 
Universal  Geography. 

N.  B.  Those  animals  to  which  an  asterism  (*)  is  prefixed,  are 
fur  animals,  whose  skins  are  sometimes  dressed  in  alum,  with  the 
hair  on,  and  worn  in  dress  ;  or  wliose  fur  or  soft  hair  is  used  for 
various  manufactural  purposes. 

The  fallow  deer,  grey  fox,  martin,  otter,  opossum,  woodchuck, 
bare,  some  of  the  squirrels,  and  the  beaver,  have  been  tamed. 
Probably  most  of  these  and  some  others  might  be  perfectly  do- 

*  The  author  is  indebted  to  Dr.  Fisher,  of  Beverly,  for  a  great  part  of  this 
uticle. 


il6  UNITED  STATES 

mesiicated.  It  has  been  observed  of  our  wild  animals  in  general, 
that  they  are  not  of  so  savatje  a  nature  as  those  in  Europe. 

Birds.  The  linnts  of  this  abridgement  forbid  even  an  enumera- 
tion of  the  names  of  the  birds  f'f  the  United  States. 

The  birds  of  America,  says  Catcsby,  generally  exceed  those  of 
Europe  in  the  beauty  of  their  plumage,  but  are  much  inferior  to 
them  in  the  melody  of  their  notes. 

The  middle  states,  including  Virginia,  appear  to  be  the  climates, 
in  North- America,  where  the  greatest  numl)er  and  variety  of  birds 
of  passage  celebrate  tlieir  nuptials  and  rea^'  tiieir  offspring,  with 
■which  they  annually  return  to  more  southern  regions.  Most  of 
our  birds  are  birds  of  passage  from  the  southward.  The  eagle, 
the  pheasant,  groiis,  and  partiid!:;e  of  Pennsylvania,  several  species 
of  Vv'ood peckers  and  crows,  blut^  jay,  robin,  marsh  hen,  several  spe- 
cies of  sparrows  or  snow  birds,  and  the  swallow,  are  perhaps  near- 
ly all  the  land  birds  that  continue  the  year  round  to  the  north  of 
Virginia. 

Very  few  tribes  of  birds  build  or  rear  their  young  in  the  south 
or  maritime  parts  of  Virginia,  in  Carolina,  Georgia,  and  Florida; 
yet  all  those  numerous  tribes,  particularly  of  the  soft  billed  kind, 
•which  breed  in  Peiuisylvania,  pass,  in  the  spring  season,  through 
these  regions  in  a  fcv/  w^cks  time,  ntaking  but  very  short  stages 
by  the  way  ;  and  again,  but  few  of  them  winter  there  on  their  re- 
turn southwardly. 

It  is  not  known  how  far  to  the  south  they  continue  their  rout  dur- 
ing their  absence  from  the  noithern  and  middle  states. 

Mineralogy.  Iron  exists  in  great  abundance  throughout  the 
United  States.  Lead  mines  are  wrought  in  various  places,  partic- 
ularly in  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia.  Zinc  and  inangancae  are 
found  in  New-York.  Copper  miiics  have  been  discovered  in  Khode 
Island,  New-Yoik,  and  New-Jersey  ;  and  very  extensive  and  rich 
ones  on  the  southern  shore  of  lake  Erie.  Native  cjuickdlver  is 
fouiid  near  Reading,  in  Pennsylvania.  A  silver  mine  exists  in 
New-York.     Gold  has  been  found  in  North-Carolina. 

Coal  is  found  in  the  greatest  abundance  on  James  river,  in  Vir- 
ginia, and  in  great  quantities,  also,  in  Rhode  Island,  New-York, 
Pennsylvania,  and  Maryland.  Native  snlfihur  exists  in  very  great 
quantities  in  New-York,  Marble  is  very  abundant  in  Massachu- 
setts, Connt'Cticut,  and  New-York.  Gy/isu?n,  alian,  and  asbestoq^ 
are  iound  in  various  places.  An  extensive  mine  o^  ijel/oiv  ochre  has 
lately  been  discovered  in  Connecticut ;  as  has  likewise  a  large 
jnass  o!  pure  siliceous  cai  th,  filttd  to  make  the  best  of  porcelain. 

Mimrul  Springs.  The  most  noted  of  these  are  Bailstown  and 
New-Lebt'non  springs,  in  tl  e  state  of  New-York  ;  Hot  springs 
and  Sweet  ^prin^s  in  Virginia,  and  Stafford  springs  in  Connecticut. 
The  salt  springs  of  Ononda.^o  iii  New-York,  i!\e  Wabash  saline, 
and  the  salt  sjirings  on  the  Great  Kanl.awa,  will,  together  with 
these,  [:>e  particularly  described  h(  reafter. 

J^aniral  Curiosities.  Probably  no  other  country  presents  so  in- 
teresting an  o!)ji  ct  to  t'le  eye  of  curiosity  as  the  falls  of  Niagara. 
They  are  situated  in  that  part  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  runs  be- 


OF  AMERICA  117 

tween  lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and  is  called  Niagara  river,  21  miles 
from  tlit  fomi*.  r  and  15  from  the  latter.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  pro- 
bably suipasbtil  by  no  river,  but  the  Amazon,  m  its  annual  tribute 
to  the  ocean,  its  size  is  never  swollen  in  the  sprinjj,  nor  sinuuk 
in  the  autumn.  Its  width,  at  the  lerry,  2  niiies  from  lake  Erie,  is 
about  1  mile,  its  average  depth  25  feet,  and  its  ave!ai;c  rapiciiiy 
froui  thence  to  Chipeway,  6  miles  an  hour.  At  the  hrvy  it  is  n.uch 
greater.  The  bed  of  the  river  from  lake  Erie  to  Queenstown,  7 
miles  below  the  falls,  is  a  mass  of  solid  liniestone  rock-  Above 
Cliipeway  there  is  no  appearance  of  a  rapid.  Still  the  ripple  on 
the  surface,  and  the  constant  rise  in  the  height  ef  the  bank,  evince 
a  very  uncommon  descent  in  the  level  of  the  river.  About  1^ 
mile  above  the  principal  fall  the  surface  is  broken  by  a  s^reai  juim- 
ber  of  shelves  or  ledges  of  rocks,  which  extend  in  an  irregular  suc- 
cession down  to  the  cataract,  and  reach,  many  of  them,  ahiiost 
across  the  river.  These  shelves  are  nearly  paiallel,  and  the  river 
where  they  conmience  is  about  3  miles  wide.  Its  waters  instantly 
become  convulsed,  and  its  surface  broken  by  numberless  hillocks 
of  foam,  assuming  every  variety  in  their  figure  and  dimensions. 
The  force  exerted  by  the  waters,  as  they  roll  over  these  ledges  of 
rocks,  gives  a  grandeur  to  the  scene,  which  nothing  but  the  cata- 
ract below  can  rival.  The  whole  descent  in  these  rapids  is  57 
feet.  Immediately  above  the  falls  the  river  turns  to  tiie  N.  \V. 
and  is  instantly  contracted  to  a  quarter  of  its  previous  wicitli.  'I'liis 
contraction  gives  a  degree  of  impetuosity  and  violence  to  the  cur^ 
rent,  hardly  surpassed  when  it  is  falling  fiom  the  precipice. 

The  water  is  precipitated  over  an  immense  mass  of  limestone 
rock,  which  forms  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  width  of  the  river,  iu 
a  straight  line  at  the  falls,  is^  of  a  mUe.  But  as  its  principal  forco 
is  exerted  in  the  centre,  the  brow  of  the  precipice  has  been  worn 
into  the  shape  of  a  horse  shoe,  and  its  whole  wiiiding  widtli  is  not 
less  than  a  mile  and  a  half.  This  distance  is  divided  by  a  small 
■woody  island,  called  Goat  island,  near  the  American  side,  which 
divides  the  cataract  into  two.  The  elevation  of  this  island  above 
the  surface  of  the  stream,  is  not  very  great,  but  it  presents,  towaids 
the  N.  W.  a  bold,  perpendicular  front  of  bure  solid  rock,  the  whole 
height  of  the  cataract.  The  width  of  the  fall  between  Goat  island, 
and  the  American  side,  is  about  one  fifth  of  the  whole,  and  that  of 
the  island  itself  another  fifth  ;  although  the  quantity  of  water  on 
the  British  side  is  probably  ten  times  as  great  as  on  the  other. 

The  Table  Rock  is  a  part  of  the  Canada  bank,  which  is  on  the 
margin  of  the  great  sheet  of  falling  water.  It  furnislies  altogether 
the  most  interesting  view  of  the  falls.  The  eye  looking  up  the 
river  beholds  it  tumbling  with  strange  magnificence  over  the 
ledges  of  rocks,  which,  seen  from  this  place,  appear  close  together, 
and  appear  to  cor.stitute  a  single  broken  cataract.  The  immense 
jnass  of  waters,  greatly  increased  in  their  rapidity  by  this  descent, 
and  perhaps  still  more  by  the  contraction  of  the  river,  rolls  with 
an  almost  instantaneous  motion  to  the  brow  of  the  precipice,  and 
shoots  many  yards  beyond,  as  it  falls  over  it  into  the  abyss  below. 
The  depth  of  \he  precipice,  the  roar  of  the  cataract,  the  mass  of 


il8  VERMONT. 

the  waters,  and  above  all  the  inconceivable  exertion  of  power,  ove?- 
"whelm  the  mind  with  emotions  of  sublimity  and  grandeur  ;  and 
fill  it  with  new  and  clearer  views  of  the  weakness  and  littleness  of 
roan. 

From  the  surface  of  the  stream  beneath,  there  arises  a  thick  and 
constant  cloud  of  vapor,  which  mounts  above  the  precipice,  to  the 
height  of  more  than  100  feet  In  clear  weather  three  primary 
rainbows  are  frequently  visible  at  once  in  various  parts  of  this  cloud. 
These,  when  the  sun  is  near  the  horizon,  appear  complete  semi- 
circles, and  are  often  of  singular  lustre  and  beauty.  Beneath  the 
fall  lies  a  thick  mass  of  foam,  which,  for  a  great  extent,  covers  the 
surface  of  the  water.  The  whole  perpendicular  descent  is  152 
feet.  The  depth  of  the  river,  beneath  ihe  fall,  is  probably  far 
greater,  for  the  tallest  trees,  descending  perpendicularly,  are  lost 
for  several  minutes  beneath  the  water  before  they  reappear.  The 
banks  of  the  river  below  are  on  both  sides  perpendicular,  of  solid 
rock,  and  of  the  same  height  with  the  fail.  They  continue  of  this 
height  7  miles  to  Queenstown.  Here  tlie  cataract  is  supposed  to 
Jiave  commenced  after  the  deluge,  and  from  this  place  to  have 
worn  its  way  backward  to  its  present  spot.  No  one  who  examines 
the  ground  will  doubt  for  a  moment  that  this  has  been  the  case  ; 
and  those  who  have  lived  for  20  years  on  the  bank  all  attest  to  this 
retrograde  motion.     These  falls  arc  in  lat.  43°  N. 

The  individual  states  and  territories  will  next  be  described  ki 
iheir  order,  as  they  lie  from  north  to  south,  beginning  with 


VERMONT^ 


Extent.  VERMONT  lies  between  lat.  42  44  and  45"  N.  and 
between  long.  71  33  and  73  26  W.  The  whole  north  end  is  on 
ihe  parallel  of  45°.  Its  mean  length  is  i  57|  miles.  Its  breadth 
«n  the  Canada  line  90,  and  on  the  Massaciuisetts  40.  The  aver- 
age breadth  is  65  ;  the  number  of  square  miles  is  10,237,  and  of 
acres,  6,552,000. 

Bou7idaries.  North  by  Lov/er  Canada ;  east  by  Connecticut 
river,  which  divides  it  from  Nf.w-Hampshire  ;  south  by  Massa- 
chusetts ;  west  by  New- York  and  the  deepest  channel  of  Poultney 
liver,  East  bay,  and  lake  Champlain. 

JDivisions.  Vermont  is  divided  into  12*  counties,  and  246  towns. 
The  counties  are  arranged  as  follows  beginning  from  the  S.  E. 


*  A  new  county,  making  the  13th,  by  the  name  of  Jefferson,  was  formed  at 
the  session  of  the  legislature  in  1810,  of  part  of  the  counties  of  Chittenden, 
Caledonia,  and  Orange,  of  which  Montpelier  is  the  centre;  which  is  to  be  or- 
ganized when  there  are  erected  a  court  house  and  gaol,  approved  by  the  judges 
pf  the  fupreme  cobrt. 


VERMONT. 


l\9 


Counties.     Towns.     Population. 
1800  1810 

Windham        23     23,531     26,760 


m 


5-< 


■^   .  Windsor 
Orange 
Caledonia 
Essex 
Orleans 


Franklin 
Grand  Isle 
Chittenden 

Addison 


•^   '  Rutland 


U3      I 


L 


Bennington 


23  26,969  31,837 

21  18,239  25,247 

22  9,332  18,730 
19  1,479  3,087 

23  1,439  5,830 

19  7,573  16,427 

5  2,489  3,445 

23  11,490  18,120 

23  13,417  19,993 

27  23,834  29,486 

18  14,607  15,893 


Chief  towns,  sq.  miles 
in  each  CO. 
r  Westminster 
■<  Brattleborough 
(^  Newlane 
f  Windsor 
\  Woodstock 

Chelsea 
C  Danville 
I  Pcacham 

Guildhall 
C  Craftsbury 
I  Brovv'nington 

St.  Albans 

North  Hero 

Burlington 
C  Middlebury 
I  Verge nnes 

Rutland 
C  Bennington 
I  Manchester 


736 

898 

745 

771 

685 

832 

729- 

82 

804 

715 

65S 

611 


Total 


12 


246    154,449  217,895 


87 16- 


JVame.  Vermont  is  merely  verd  mont,  the  French  for  green 
mountain.  It  is  said  that  Ethan  Allen  conferred  the  name  on  the 
mountains,  and  thence  it  was  transferred  to  the  territory. 

Historical  Epochs.  Vermont  was  originally  possessed  by  the 
Coos  Indians,  and  other  tribes  of  Moheakannnews.  Massachusetts 
first  claimed  the  territory.  In  1718  that  government  gave  49,000 
acres  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  state,  to  Connecticut,  for  some  land 
which  had  been  granted  by  INIassachusetts  within  the  limits  of  the 
Connecticut  charter.  In  1725  a  fort  was  erected  at  Brattlebo- 
rough.  From  1741  till  1764,  Vermont  was  considered  as  belong- 
ing to  the  jurisdiction  of  Nevv-Kampshirc,  and,  in  1760,  a  number 
of  towns  were  settled.  In  1764  parliament  annexed  Vermont  to 
New-York.  The  government  of  that  province  claimed  the  right 
of  soil,  and  dispos!;d  of  lands  which  had  been  granted  by  New- 
Hampshire,  and  settled  by  the  grantees.  This  occasioned  a  long 
and  violent  dispute  between  the  settlers  and  the  claimants  under 
NfJW-York.  In  1790,  New-York,  for  30,000  dollars,  v/ithdrew  its 
chtims  ;  and,  in  1791,  V;>r;noni  was  admitted  a  member  of  the 
union.  The  Green  Mountain  Boys  were  soaie  of  the  best  troops, 
in  tljC  revolutionary  war.* 

Religion.  There  are  89  Congregational  chm-ches  in  Vermont^ 
2  Presbyterian,  23  Baptist,  2  Episcopalian,  1  Univcrsalist,  and  I 
Fiiends. 

Go-vermnent.    By  the  constitution,  the  supreme  legislative  pow- 


♦The  history  of  this  state  has  been  well  written  by  Samuel  'Williams,  LL.  I?l- 
5»ublished  in  HS-ijand  a  new  edition  iu  1310. 


iSO  VERMONT; 

er  is  vested  in  a  house  of  representatives  of  the  freemen  of  the" 
state  of  Vermont,  to  be  chosen  annually  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  Sep- 
tember, and  to  meet  the  second  Thursday  of  the  succeeding  Octo- 
ber: this  bfxly  is  vested  with  all  the  powers  necessary  for  the  le- 
gislature of  a  free  state — two  thirds  of  the  whole  number  of  repre- 
^5entalives  elected  make  a  quorum. 

Each  inh-.ibited  town  throus^hout  the  state  has  a  right  to  send 
one  representative  to  the  assembly. 

The  supreme  executive  power  is  vested  in  a  governor,  lieuten- 
ant governor,  and  twelve  counsellors,  chosen  annually. 

Every  person  of  the  age  of  21  years,  wfo  has  resided  in  the  state 
one  wiiole  year  next  before  the  election  of  representatives,  is  enti- 
tled to  all  the  privileges  of  a  freeman  of  this  state. 

Each  member  of  the  house  of  representatives,  before  he  takes 
his  seat  must  declare  his  belief  in  one  God — in  future  rewards  and 
punishments,  and  in  the  divinity  of  the  scriptures  of  the  Old  and 
New  Testaments,  and  must  profess  the  Protestant  religion. 

Courts  of  justice  are  to  be  established  in  every  county  through- 
out this  state. 

Population      The  number  of  inhabitants  was  in  the  year 

ir90$^^';J^^V"r^5,589        1810  52'7''^f^;^hif  J  217,895 
I        271  blacks  5  C         750  blacks  ^ 

lonn  S  153,908  whites) 
1800  <         '    ,„  1  I     I     r  154,455 
\         557  blacks  5 

The  increase,  in  the  first  10  years,  was  68,860  ;  and  in  the  se- 
cond 10,  6:>,445.  At  the  first  census  Vermont  was  the  IJth  state 
in  point  of  population  ;  at  the  second,  the  13th  ;  and,  at  the  third, 
the  13th. 

Milicia.  In  1796  there  were,  on  the  militia  rolls  19,500  men- 
These  were  formed  into  4  divisions,  consisting  of  8  brigades  and 
22  regiments.  The  increase  since  may  be  estimated  according  to 
the  increase  of  the  inhabitants.  By  the  constitution  of  the  state  the 
governor  is  captain  general  of  all  the  forces  of  the  state  ;  and  the 
lieutenant  governor,  lieutenant  general.  Subordinate  to  these  is 
one  major  general  to  eac!i  of  tlie  four  divisions,  and  one  brigadier 
general  to  each  of  the  eiglit  brigades,  chosen  by  the  legislature. 

Revenue.  The  revenue  of  this  state  arises  from  rates  and  taxes 
granted  from  time  to  time  by  the  legislature,  and  assessed  in  pro- 
])ortion  to  the  polls  and  rateal)le  estate.  The  law  determines  what 
is  taxable  estate,  and  fixes  the  value  at  whicii  it  shall  be  taxed. 
All  persons  liable  to  be  taxed  are  required"  to  deliver  to  the  listers* 
annually  in  July,  a  correct  list  of  all  their  taxable  property. 

Character.  The  inliabitants  of  this  state  are  an  assemj^lage  of 
pcc»plc  from  various  places,  of  different  sentiments,  manners,  and 
habits  ;  tliey  have  not  lived  tOij,ether  long  enough  to  assimilate  and 
form  a  gcr.eral  character.  Assemble  together^  in  imagination,  a. 
number  of  individuals  of  different  nations;  consider  them  as  liv- 
ing together  amicably,  and  assisting  each  other  through  the  toils 
and  difficulties  of  life,  and  yet  rigorously  opposed  in  particular  re- 
ligious and  political  tenets  ;  jealous  of  their  rulers,  and  tenacious 
of  their  liberties,   (dispostions  which   originate  naturally  from  the 


VERMONT,  121 

itread  of  experienced  oppression  and  the  habit  of  living  under  a 
free  governmcni)  and  you  liave  a  pretty  just  idea  of  the  cixaracter 
of  the  people  of  Vermont. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  several  towns  seem  generally  disposed, 
as  soon  as  they  are  able,  to  settle  a  minister  of  the  gospel  among 
them.  Missionaries  from  Connecticut  and  Massaciiusetts,  to  the 
new  and  scattered  settlements,  have  been  generally  well  received 
and  treated  with  gratelul  respect  and  kindness. 

JLitcratwe.  Vermont  has  two  colleges.  One  is  at  Burlington> 
established  in  1791,  and  has  been  liberally  patronised  by  the  state, 
and  styled  a  university,  but  as  yet  has  had  few  students.  The  oth- 
er is  at  Middlebury,  supported  chiefly  by  private  bounty,  and  is  a 
flourishing  seminary.  It  was  founded  in  1800,  and  has  120  stu- 
dents. One  or  more  academies  are  established  in  most  of  the  coun- 
ties in  the  state  ;  and  grammar  schools  ia  every  counf.y.  The  land 
reserved  for  a  university  amounts  to  about  33,000  acres,  and  for 
grammar  schools  about  the  same.  Common  schools  are  establish- 
ed in  every  town.  The  land  reserved  for  these  exceeds  80,000 
acres. 

Tonvns.  Bennington,  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Vermont,  was 
settled  in  1764.  It  is  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  state.  The  public 
edifices  are  a  Congregational  church,  a  court  house,  and  a  gaol. 
The  population  in  1810  was  2524. 

Windsor  is  a  beautiful  village,  about  45  miles  from  the  Massa- 
chusetts line,  on  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut.  The  houses  are 
very  neat  and  handsome,  and  the  trade  is  flourishing.  The  bridge 
thrown  here  across  the  Connecticut  is  one  of  the  handsomest  oa 
the  river.  Population  in  1790,  1542  ;  in  1800,  221 1  ;  and  in  1810^ 
2757.  Ascutney  is  a  fine  summit  on  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  town, 
2051  feet  above  the  sea,  and  1732  ai)ove  the  river. 

Rutland  lies  upon  Otter  creek,  in  the  western  part  of  the  state, 
16  miles  east  of  the  south  end  of  lake  Champlain.  it  has  a  Congre- 
gational church  and  a  court  house.  Population  in  1790,  1407;  in 
1800,  2125  ;  and  in  1810,  2379. 

Middlebury  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  east  bank  of  Otter  creek, 
20  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  contains  a  Congregational  church,  2 
collegiate  buildings,  a  court  house  and  gaol,  a  considerable  brew- 
ery, a  gun  and  card  manufactory,  a  forge,  a  printing  oflicc  and 
bookstore,  3  grist  mills  and  4  saw  mills.  Population  in  1790,  395  j 
in  1800,  1263;  and  in  1810,2138. 

Burlington  stands  on  a  most  beautiful  harbor  on  lake  Champlain, 
on  elevated  ground,  commanding  a  noble  view  of  the  lake  and  the 
adjacent  country.  The  prospect  from  the  top  of  the  college  iivy*.' 
surpassed  by  none  in  New-England,  except  that  from  Mount  Ho.-, 
lyoke,  and  that  from  the  dome  of  the  statehouse  in  Boston.  Pop- 
ulation in  1810,  1690. 

Moiiipolier,  a  little  north  of  the  centre  of  the  state,  is  the  seat  of 
gov«'Vi:m(  nt. 

Manufactures.  There  are  several  distilleries  for  corn  spirits  in 
this  state.  At  Middlebury  is  a  porter  brewery  on  a  very  large 
scale.     The  iron  niannfaciure  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  ex- 


i25^         ,  VERMONT. 

tient  in  the  counties  of  Bennington,  Rutland,  Addison,  aiid  Chitten=» 
den.  In  common  seasons,  larp;e  quantities  of  maple  sugar  are  man- 
ufaciured  for  home  consumption.  It  has  been  estimated,  by  a 
competent  judge,  that  fi;e  average  quantity  made  for  every  faiiiily 
back  of  Connecticut  river,  is  200ib  a  year.  Most  families  manu- 
facture, in  their  houses,  the  greater  part  of  their  common  clothing, 
from  flax  and  wool  raised  on  theiV  own  farms,  of  an  excellent  qual- 
ity. 

Bank-.  There  is  but  one  bank  in  this  state,  called  the  Vermont 
State  Bunk,  established  in  1806,  wholly  the  property  of  tlie  state*- 
It  consists  of  four  branches,  at  Burlington,  Middlebury,  Wood- 
stock, and  Westminster.  It  is  under  the  management  of  13  direct- 
ors, appointed  annually  by  the  legislature. 

Commerce.  The  inhabitants  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  state  trade 
■with  Hartford  and  Boston  ;  in  the  middle  with  Boston  ;  and  in  the 
N.  E.  with  Portland  ;  in  tlie  S.  W.  with  New-York  ;  and  in  the 
N.  W.  with  New-York  and  Montreal.  This  last  has  been  especial- 
ly true  since  the  interruptions  of  American  commerce.  Burling- 
ton, on  lake  Champlain,  is  the  only  port  of  entry.  The  exports  in 
1810  amcmited  to  432,631  dollars.  They  consist  chiefly  of  lum- 
ber, horses,  beef,  pork,  butter,  cheese,  wheat,  flour,  iron,  nails,  pot 
and  pearl  ashes.  The  imports  cannot  be  fairly  estimated,  as  they 
are  principally  sent  through  other  slates.  ♦ 

Climate.  The  winter  is  cold  but  (the  sky  is  usually)  serene  and 
the  weather  uniform.  Snow  lies  commonly  about  four  months, 
from  December  to  March  ;  and,  on  the  highlands,  falls  four  feet 
<leep.  Vegetation,  in  the  spring,  is  very  rapid.  The  climate  is 
generally  healthy  ;  but  some  of  the  towns  west  of  the  mountains 
are  frequently  afflicted  with  the  fever  and  ague,  and  those  on  the 
lake,  with  distressing  bilious  fevers. 

Face  of  Che  Country.  Vermont  is  generally  mountainous,  and 
no  where  a  plain  except  near  the  Canada  line.  Its  mountains  arc 
all  covered  with  forests  ;  on  the  east  side  with  birch,  beech,  maple, 
ash,  elm,  and  butternut ;  and  on  the  west  with  evergreens. 

Mountains.  The  only  range  of  mountains  in  the  state  is  the 
Green  mountains.  They  cross  the  south  line  in  the  western  part 
of  the  state,  and  run  north  as  far  as  Roxbury,  where  tb.y  divide. 
The  highest  chain  continues  north  tt\rou<uh  Chittenden  aiid  Frank- 
lin counties  to  lat.  45°.  The  three  highest  summits  are  Killington 
Peak,  Camel's  Rump,  in  Huntington,  and  tlie  mountain  of  Mans- 
field, in  Stirling.  This  part  of  the  range  is  pierced  by  the  large 
rivers  falling  into  lake  Cnamplain.  The  eastern  range  winds  be- 
\cciween  the  sources  of  these  rivers,  and  of  those  that  fall  ir.to  the 
V-^onnecticut,  through  Roxbury,Wi!liamstowi., Washington. Orange, 
Sec.  and  is  tliC  height  of  land  between  that  river  and  the  lake.  The 
principal  range  from  the  north  to  the  south  line  of  the  state  is  gen- 
eral'y  about  15  miles  wide.  Kiiiington  Peak,  in  Sherburne,  i.s 
3184  feet  above  the  level  of  lake  Champlain,  at  the  mouth  ol  Otter 
Creek,  and  3154.  feet  ai)OV€  the  ocean  Grand  Monadnoc,  in  the 
N.  E.  corner  of  the  state,  is  about  as  high  as  Ascutoey. 


VERMONT.  123 

Soil  and  Productions.  The  soil  is  very  fertile  and  filted  for  all 
Ihe  purposes  of  agriculture.  It  is  generally  deep,  and  of  i  dark 
color  ;  rich,  moist,  warm,  and  loamy.  Winter  wheat  is  extensive- 
ly cultivated  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains ;  but  it  does  not 
thrive  so  well  on  the  cast  side.  Summer  wheat, barley, oats,  p.as, 
and  flax,  flourish  in  all  parts  of  the  slate.  Indian  corn  thrives  ')tst 
in  the  intervals,  but  is  raised  in  abundance  every  where.  rj:e 
pastures  of  Vermont  are  excellent,  and  the  beef  and  mutton  are 
very  fine. 

liivers.  The  Connecticut  is  the  eastern  boundary.  All  the 
other  rivers  have  their  sources  in  the  Green  mouiuains.  About 
S5  liave  an  easterly  direction,  and  fall  into  the  Coiintcticut.  Four 
or  five  small  ones  run  northerly  into  lake  Memphremagog.  About 
23  run  westerly  into  lake  Champlain,  and  tv/o  or  three  pursue  die 
same  direction  to  tiie  Hudson. 

Micliiscoui  rises  in  Belvidcre,  runs  N.  N.  E.  into  Canada,  v/here 
it  proceeds  W.  some  distai.ce,  and  i'eentering  the  slu't  \>j  Ric'dord, 
pursues  ibe  saiue  course  to  Micid^coui  bay.  It  is  75  miles  long, 
and  is  navitjabie  to  the  falls  in  SwaiUoi.-,  7.  inilos. 

Tiie  Lamoille  proceeds  frcn  a  poiici  m  Glover,  and  runs  N.  oi 
W.  about  75  miles,  to  lake  Cliampiam  ;  wliicn  it  enters  in  the 
north  part  of  Colchester,  it  receives  14  tributaries,  and  is  a  fine, 
sniootii,  and  pleasant  stream,  running  through  a  rich,  level,  and  fer-- 
tile  country. 

Onion  river,  formerly  called  French  and  Winooski  river,  rises  in 
Cabot,  14  miles  W.  of  the  Connecticut,  and  runs  S.  W.  20  miles; 
and  then  N.  VV.  60,  to  lake  Champlain.  It  has  14  tributaries,  and 
is  navigalile  5  miles.  Its  course  is  through  a  mountainous,  but 
very  fertile  country.  In  Colchester,  6  miles  from  its  mouth,  the 
channel  for  15  rods  is  through  solid  rock,  50  feet  wide  and  70  deep. 
In  Waterbuiy,  30  miles  higher,  there  is  a  similar  passage,  but  the 
channel  is  much  narrower,  and  a  huge  mass  has  rolled  down  from 
the  ledge,  and  formed  a  complete  natural  bridge.  The  mouth  of 
Onion  river  is  5  miles  south  of  the  Lamoille,  and  3  north  of  Bur- 
lington bay. 

Otter  Creek  rises  in  Peru,  30  feet  only  from  the  source  of  the 
Battenkill,  which  takes  an  opposite  direction  ;  and,  running  W.  of 
N.  90  miles,  falls  into  the  lake  at  Ferrisburg,  receiving  in  its  course 
J  5  tributaries.  There  are  useful  falls  at  Rutland,  Pit'sford,  Mid- 
dlebury,  and  Vergennes.  To  the  last,  vessels  of  considerable  bur- 
den may  come  up  6  miles  from  the  mouth.  Between  the  falls  the 
current  is  very  slow,  the  water  deep,  and  navigable  for  the  largest 
boats. 

Lakes.  Lake  Champlain  has  been  described.  It  contains  about 
600  square  miles,*  more  than  two  thirds  of  which  are  in  Vermont. 

Lake  Memphremagog  lies  chiefly  in  Lower  Canada.  It  is  40 
miles  long,  but  only  7  or  8  miles  ol  the  south  ehd  are  in  this  state, 
covering  15  square  miles.  Its  chief  tributaries  in  Vermont  are 
i^iyde,  Barton,  and  Black  rivers. 

*  Hutchine  estimates  its  contests  st  50C,P00  acrc^ 


124 


NEW-HAMPSHIRE. 


Mineralogy,  Iron  mines  abound  on  the  west  side  of  the  moun- 
tain. They  are  worked  at  Tinmouth,  Shaftesbury,  Rutland,  Shore-s 
ham,  Monkton,  and  Mihon.  Several  others  liave  been  discovered. 
A  lead  mine,  wilh  a  very  rich  orC;  has  been  found  in  Sunderland. 
Rich  pyrites  is  found  in  Shrewsbury.  In  Rutland  there  is  a  fine 
vein  of  pipe  clay.  Marble  is  found  in  almost  every  town  from  Ben- 
nington to  the  Michiscoui.  In  Bennington,  a  quarry  has  been  o- 
pened,  which  has  peculiar  fineness  and  beauty. 


NEW-HAMPSHIRE. 

Extent.  NEW-HAMPSHIRE  lies  between  lat.  42  41  and  45 
UN.  and  between  Ion.  70  40  and  7-2.  28  W.  It  is  168  miles  long, 
from  north  to  south.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  90  miles  ;  in  lat.  44° 
it  is  55  miles,  and  at  tht-  northtin  extremity  but  19.  It  contains 
9,491  square  miles,  or  6,074,240  acres. 

Boundaries.  N.  by  Lower  Canada  ;  E.  by  Maine,  and  the  At- 
lantic ;  S.  by  Massachusetts ;  and  W^.  by  the  west  bank  of  the 
Connecticut ;  no  part  of  that  river  is  within  the  jurisdiction  of  Ver- 
mont.    The  extent  of  sea  coast  is  18  miles. 

Divisions.     This  state  is  divided  into  six  counties,  viz. 
Counties.     No.  of  towns.     Population.     Chief  towns.     No.  ofinh. 

in  1810. 
3,991 


Coos 
Grafton 

Cheshire 
Hillsborough 

Rockingham 
StrafTord 


24 
35 

35 

42 

46 
31 


28,463 

40,988 
49,249 

50,175 
41,595 


Lancaster 
5  Hciveihill 
^  Hanover 
C  Charleston 
\  Keene 

Amherst 

Exeter 

Portsmouth 

Concord 
C  Dover 
\  Durham 


r 


717 
1,105 

937 
1,501 
1,646 
1,554 
1,759 
6,934 
2,393 
2,228 
1,449 


Total  213  214,460 

JK^ame.  This  territory  received  the  name  of  J^e w- Ham fj shire 
from  Capt.  Mason,  the  original  patentee.  (In  the  earliest  grant, 
made  to  Mason  and  Gorge  s  in  1 622,  it  is,  however,  styled  Laconia.) 
In  the  histories  of  Indian  wars  it  is  also  called  Cafitain  Mason's 
Patent,  and  fi.scataquay  trom  its  principal  river. 

Hutory.  Ti.is  tract  of  country  was  discovered  in  1 614,  by  Capt. 
Jolin  Snath.  The  first  sttilement  was  made  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Pistutanua,  on  the  south  bank,  and  also  8  miles  farther  up,  at  what 
is  now  Dover,  in  1623.  Ti  e  towns  governed  themselves,  till  1641, 
■when  thty  were  taken  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Massachusetts.  In 
1675,  occuned  the  first  Indian  war,  tailed  PI  ilip's  war;  which 
p«  rvaded  thx-  whole  of  New-England.  In  September,  1679,  New- 
Hampshire  was  separated  from  Massachusetts,  and  made  a  royal 


NEW-HAMPSHIRE.  Uj 

government.  In  1689  occurred  the  second  Indian  war,  called 
king  William's  war  ;  in  1703,  the  third,  culled  queen  Anne's  war, 
in  which  the  Indians  were  assisted  by  the  Canadian  French  ;  in 
1723,  the  fourth,  called  the  Three  Years'  or  Lovell's  war  ;  and,  in 
1754,  the  filth  and  last,  which  terminated  in  17  60,  in  the  reduclion 
of  Canada  In  1775,  New-Hampshire,  in  common  with  the  otiicr 
stales,  ceased  to  be  a  royal  provmce,  and  the  same  year  a  teiiipo- 
rary  constitution  was  formed  lor  its  i^overnmenu  The  present  con- 
stitution was  a.i'.recd  on  in  1785,  and  went  into  operation  m  June, 
1784.  An  insurrection  took  place  in  1786.  Tht  insurgcnis  as- 
sembled at  Exeter  and  took  the  legisiaiure  prisoners,  and  held 
them  so  several  hours.  The  citizens  appearing  in  arms  crushed 
it  in  its  infancy. 

Religion.  The  principal  denominations  of  Christians  in  thia 
state,  are  Congregationaiibts,  Presbyceriaus,  Episcopalians,  Bap- 
tists, Universalists,  anci  Quakers.  There  is  a  small  society  o( 
Sandemanians  in  Portsmouth,  and  another  of  Shakers  at  Enfield. 

Government.  The  executive  power  is  vested  in  a  governor  and 
council.  The  governor  is  chosen  by  the  people  annually.  He 
must  be  worth  500/.  If  there  is  no  choice,  the  legisiaiure  fill  the 
vacancy.  The  council  consists  of  5  persons,  2  chosen  by  the  sen- 
ate, and  3  by  the  representatives.  The  legislature  are  called  The 
General  Court.  Each  branch  has  a  negative  on  the  other.  The 
senate  consi&ts  of  12  members.  A  senator  must  be  worth  a  free- 
hold of  200/.  Each  town,  containing  150  rateable  polls,  sends  one; 
representative,  and  every  addition  of  500  polls  entitles  it  to  another. 
A  representative  must  be  worth  100/.  The  judiciary  is  composed 
of  a  superior  court,  having  four  judges,  which  makes  two  circuits 
annually  through  the  counties  ;  of  an  infeiior  court  in  each  county, 
having  four  judges,  and  sitting  four  times  a  year ;  of  a  court  of 
general  sessions  in  each  county,  consisting  of  the  justices  of  the 
peace,  and  sitting  the  same  week  with  the  inferior  court ;  of  t^ 
court  of  probate  in  each  county,  having  one  judge,  and  sitting 
monthly;  and  of  justice's  courts.  All  judges  hold  their  officer 
during  good  behaviour. 

Fofmlalion,     The  number  of  inliabitants  was,  in  the  year 
1749  -  -  30,000  1790  -  -     '  141,885 

1767  -  -  52,700  1800  -  -         183,858 

1775  -  -  82,200  1810  -  -        214,460 

New- Hampshire  at  the  first  census,  in  1790,  was  the  10th  state 
in  the  union,  in  point  of  population  ;  at  the  second,  the  1 1th,  and 
at  the  third,  the  14th. 

Militia.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  this  state  between  I  6  and, 
45  years  of  age,  according  to  the  last  census,  is  39,396.  This  fact 
will  enable  any  one  to  form  a  pretty  correct  idea  of  the  military 
strength  of  this  state.  The  proportion  of  the  actual  militia  to  ilie 
whole  number  of  m.ales  between  16  and  45,  in  New-England,  i;-; 
about  as  10  to  19.  The  militia  of  New-Hampshire  is  organized  in 
ihe  same  manner  as  in  Massachusetts. 

Literature,     The  college  of  New-Hampshire  is  in  Hanover.    It 


l%5  NEW-HAMPSHIRfe. 

■was  called  Daixtmouth  College,  from  William,  carl  of  Dart- 
snouth,  one  of  its  principal  benefactors ;  and  stands  in  a  plairfj  aboufc 
half  a  mile  cast  of  Connecticut  river.  The  charter  was  procured 
by  rev.  Dr.  Whcelocli,  its  first  president,  in  1769.  The  funds  of 
the  college  consist  chiefly  of  lands  amounting  to  about  80,000  acres. 
The  revenue  of  the  college  arising  from  this  source  amounts,  at 
present,  to  about  1333  dollars  a  year.  This  with  the  tuition  makes 
an  income  of  3500  dollars.  The  officers  of  the  college  are  a  presi- 
dent, who  is  also  professor  of  civil  and  ecclesiastical  history,  a  pro- 
fessor of  divinity,  a  professor  of  mathematics  and  natural  philoso- 
phy, a  professor  of  kuiguages,  and  two  tutors.  Beside  these  there 
is  a  professor  of  chemistry,  and  a  professor  of  medicine,  connected 
•with  the  medical  department.  The  number  of  undergraduates  is 
upwards  of  170,  and  50  in  addition,  who  attend  the  lectures  and  in- 
struction in  the  medical  department.  For  the  medical  establish- 
n^ent  an  edifice  is  to  be  erected  this  year,  at  the  expense  of  the 
state,  to  be  of  brick,  75  by  32  feet,  and  28  in  height.  The  institu- 
tion  is  possessed  of  a  very  valuable  chemical  and  medical  appara* 
nus.     The  library  contains  about  4000  volumes. 

Connected  with  the  college  is  Moore's  charity  school. 

There  are  several  academies  in  the  state.  That  at  Exeter,  call- 
ed Phillips's  Exeter  academy,  was  incorporated  in  1781,  and  has 
funds  amounting  to  about  g  80,000, and  between  60  and  80  students. 
It  is  in  high  reputation.  Tiiere  arc  others  at  New-Ipswich,  At- 
kinson, Amherst,  Charleston,  and  Concord. 

Every  town  is  obliged  bylaw  to  have  one  or  more  common  schools, 

Toivns.  Portsmouth  is  the  largest  town  in  the  stale.  It  stands 
2  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Piscataqua,  on  the  south  bank.  The 
harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  continent,  having  a  sufficient  depth 
for  vessels  of  any  size.  Here  arc  3  Congregational  churches,  I 
Episcopalian,  and  1  Univcrsalist  ;  a  state  house,  a  work  house, 
find  2  banks.     Population  in  1800,  5339  ;  and  in  1810,  6934. 

Exeter  stands  at  tbfc  head  of  navigation  on  the  Swamscot,  a 
branch  of  the  Piscataqua,  Avhich  has  ])ei'e  sufficient  depth  for  ves- 
sels of  500  tons.  It  is  well  siiiiated  for  a  manufacturing  town,  and 
contains  2  Congregational  churches,  an  academy,  court  house,  and 
gaol.     Population  in  1810,  1759- 

Concord  is  a  pleasant,  flourishing  town,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Mcrriinac,  over  which  there  are  here  two  bridges.  Much  of  the 
trade  of  tl^.e  upper  country  centres  here.  The  canals  and  other 
improven.cnts  lately  made  on  the  Mcrrimac,  which  iiave  opened 
a  lioat  communication  between  this  town  and  Boston,  have  increas- 
ed the  imppitance  of  this  place.  It  will  probably  become  the  per- 
jnancnt  seat  of  government.     It  has  2393  inhabitants. 

Ch.arlesion  is  a  pleasant  town  on  Connecticut  river,  built  chiefly 
on  one  street,  and  containing  a  cliurch,  court  house,  and  gaol.  In 
the  south  part  of  the  town  lies  a  large  and  beautiful  interval.  Pop- 
-ilation  nol. 

The  village  of  Dartmouth  in  Hanover,  is  36  miles  above  Charles- 
to!s  and  stands  en  an  elevated  ^hin.     It  i^  laid  out  in  squares,  ar.d 


NEW-HAMPSHIRE.  12Y 

is  "Weli  built,  containing  a  church,  academy,  college,  and  chapel, 
and  2135  inhabitants. 

Haverhill  is  at  the  Lower  Coos  or  Great  Oxbow,  a  singular  bend 
in  the  Connecticut,  forming  one  of  the  most  delightful  intervals 
in  the  world.  It  has  two  churches,  a  court  house,  and  1105  in- 
habitants. 

Keene  is  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in  New-England,  and  pleas- 
antly situated  a  few  miles  east  of  the  same  river,  having  a  church, 
court  house,  gaol,  and  1  646  inhabitants. 

Manufactures.  Furnaces  and  iron  works  are  established  in  the 
lownslup  of  Franconia,  in  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  state.  Near  9fe» 
looms  in  the  township  of  Hanover  furnish  a  sample  of  the  effects 
of  the  growing  spirit  of  the  people  for  linen  and  woollen  manufac- 
tures in  the  western  part  of  the  state.  The  people  in  the  country, 
generally,  manufacture  their  own  clothing  and  considerable  quan- 
tities for  exportation.  The  other  manufactures  are  pot  and  pearl 
ashes,  maple  sugar,  bricks  and  pottery,  and  some  iron  ;  the  latter 
not  sufficient  however,  for  home  consumption,  though  it  might  bf5 
made  an  article  of  exportation. 

Trade.  The  chief  articles  of  export  are  timber  of  various  kinds, 
dried  and  pickled  fish,  whale  oil,  tar,  flax  seed,  beef,  corn,  oxen 
and  cows,  horses,  sheep,  bricks,  pot  and  pearl  ashes.  The  amount 
in  1810,  was  g  234,650,  and  in  1798,  S  ^23,242.  This  decrease 
was  owing  to  the  restrictions  on  American  commerce.  The  im- 
ports consist  of  West-India  rum,  gin,  molasses,  wine,  porter,  sugars, 
tea,  coffee,  cotton,  cheese,  nails,  cordage,  salt,  sea-coal,  steel,  lead, 
and  grindstones.  About  27  scliooners  and  20  boats  with  230  men, 
exclusive  of  those  belonging  to  the  isles  of  Si.oals,  are  annually 
employed  in  the  fisheries.  The  product  of  these  fisheries,  in  1791, 
was  25,850  quintals.  The  inhabitants,  in  the  S.  W.  parts  of  the 
state,  trade  witli  Boston ;  in  the  middle  and  north  as  far  as  Haver- 
hill, with  Portsmouth  ;  and  farther  north,  with  Portland. 

Canals  and  Turn/iikes.  Five  canals  have  been  formed  on  Con- 
necticut river,  2  of  which  are  within  the  limits  of  New-Hampshire. 
By  these  the  navigation  is  opened  in  this  fine  river  for  nearly  250 
miles  from  its  mouth.  A  short  canal  has  been  formed  round 
Amoskeag  falls  in  the  Merrimac,  and  several  others  around  falls 
above.  Another  has  been  cut  through  the  marshes  of  Hampton 
and  Salisbury,  8  miles,  and  meets  the  Merrimac  opposite  Newbu- 
ryport.  Six  turnpike  roads  are  constructed,  intersecting  the  most 
important  parts  of  the  state,  viz.  from  Walpole  to  New-Ipswich  ; 
from  Windsor  to  Amherst  ;  from  Concord  to  Portsmouth  ;  from 
Concord,  tlirough  Londonderry,  to  Boston  ;  from  Hanover  to  Bos- 
cawen,  and  from  Haverliili  lo  Warr :n.  Eight  others  have  beeu 
formed  to  facilitate  intercuurse  in  different  directions  ;  and  some 
beside  have  b.'en  undertaken,  aiid  v/ill  soon  i>o  conipleted. 

l''ace  of  tkc  Cou7itrij.  The  snore  of  New-Humpsliire  is  chiefly 
a  sandy  beaci;,  within  which  are  salt  marshes  intersected  by  creeks. 
Only  two  bluffs  appear  on  the  coast,  the  (ireat  and  Little  Boar's 
Heads  ;  both  in  Hampton.  For  20  or  30  miles  from  the  sea  the 
country  is  either  level,  or  made  up  of  little  hills  and  vallics.    Thti?. 


128  NEW-HAMPSHIRE. 

commences  the  first  range  of  mountains-  Beyond  thesei  are  sev^ 
eral  detached  mountains  ot  considerable  elevation.  Still  farther 
back  is  another  rani^e  ;  east  of  the  Merrimac,  and  between"  that 
and  the  Connecticut  is  the  princip:d  range  in  the  state.  The  moun- 
tains are  ail  covered  with  wood  ;  tiie  higuest  only  have  their  tbps 
bare.     Tlie  couiVtry  on  the  whole  may  be  called  niuuntainous. 

Soil  and  .Agriculture.  The  soil  of  the  state  is  generahy  very 
I'eniie,  and  hardly  any  such  thing  as  a  barren  is  ki  own.  The  in- 
terval lands  on  tiie  larsj^e  rivers  yre  the  richest :  ti.ey  yield  great 
crops  of  hay,  and  from  40  lo  50  Dushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre  ;  while 
the  uplaiidb  y!>.!«.l  20.  Tiit  uplands  are  very  rich  pasture.  Orch- 
ards are  muuipiying  and  productive. 

Rivers.  Tiie  Connecticut,  Ameiiscoggin,and  Saco,  rise  in  New- 
Hampshire,  and  the  wesievn  bank  of  the  first,  is  it^  west  bovindary. 

The  Merrimac  is  formed  by  two  braiicncs.  'I  ne  northern,  tlie 
.Pemigiivaaset,  has  its  sourcs  m  Moosi  hillock,  and  in  a  mountain 
lying  between  that  and  the  White  mountains.  In  Sanborntown  it 
is  joined  by  the  IVmmfiiseogee.,  the  eastern  branch,  a  short  stream, 
^vhich  comes  from  Winnipiseogee  lake,  on  the  N.  E.  Here  the 
united  stream  takes  the  name  of  Merrimac  river;  and,  after  a, 
course  of  about  65  miles,  in  a  S.  by  E.  course,  and  35  in  one  N.  N. 
E.  falls  into  the  sea  at  Newbury  port.  Its  piincipal  tributaries 
from  the  west  are  Blackwater,  Comoocook,  Piscataquoag,  Souhe- 
gan,  and  Kashua  ;  from  the  east,  Suncook  and  Beaver.  Hookset 
falls  in  the  Merrimac  are  8  miles  below  Concord,  which  have  been 
lately  canalled.  The  river  falls  15  feet  in  30  rods.  Eight  miles 
lower  dow'n  is  Amoskeag  fall,  which  consists  of  three  large  pitch- 
es, in  half  a  mile  ;  in  all  80  feet,  which  have  also  been  canaJlecL 
It  has  another  fall  called  Patucket  falls  in  Massachusetts,  which 
have  experienced  the  same  improvement. 

The  Contoocook,  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Merrimac,  rises  in 
Massachusetts,  and  ruiis  N.  N.  E.  60  or  70  miles,  eniptying  a  lit- 
tle above  Concord. 

The  Piscataqua  heads  in  a  pond  in  the  N.  E.  corner  of  Wake- 
field, and  pursues  a  S.  S.  E.  course  to  the  sea,  forming  the  boun- 
dary between  Maine  and  New-Han;ps!ure.  From  its  head  to  the 
falls  ui  Berwick  It  is  called  Salmunjutl  river  ;  and  thence  to  the 
Cociieeho,  the  JVi-ivicliatvannoc.  Its  whole  length  is  about  50  miles. 
Six  miles  above  Porlsmouih,  a  bridge  was  built  over  the  Piscata- 
qua in  1794.  it  is  2600  feet  long,  and  is  built  chiefly  on  piles. 
The  remainder  is  a  stupendous  arch,  with  a  cliord  of  244  feet,  over 
vater  46  feet  deep.      It  cost  68,000  dollars. 

Ujijier  Aramonoositc  rises  oii  the  north  side  of  the  While  moun- 
tains, and  rims  N.  N.  E  about  15  miles,  where  there  is  a  carrying 
place  of  3  miles,  to  the  Ameriscoggin.  It  then  turns  west,  and 
j'uns  2u  miles  to  the  Connecticut,  emptying  at  Northumberland. 
I.onvcr  or  Greai  Animonoo.'iuc  heads  on  the  west  side  of  the  White 
mountains,  a  few  rods  from  tlie  source  of  the  Saco,  and  pursues  a 
southwesterly  course  of  40  miles,  to  the  Connecticut,  emptying 
between  Bath  and  Haverhill,  where  it  is  IOC  yards  wide.     Ashue- 


NEW-HAMPSHIRE.  129 

lol  river  heads  in  Sunapee  mountain,  and  runs  S.  S.  W.  to  the  Con- 
necticut, about  40  miles,  emptying  at  Hinsdale. 

Lakes.  Winni/iiseogec  lake  is  the  largest  in  the  state  ;  being 
24  miles  long  from  S.  E.  to  N.  \V.  and  iVom  3  to  12  miles  broad. 
U7nbagog.i  the  next  largest  lake,  is  in  the  northeastern  part  of  tiie 
state.  A  small  portion  of  it  is  in  Maine,  and  it  discharges  its  wa- 
ters by  a  short  stream  from  the  E.  into  tlie  Ameriscoggin.  Squavi 
lake,  N.  W.  of  the  Winnipiseogee,  is  5  miles  long  and  4  broad. 
Ossa/ue  lake  lies  E.  of  Ossapee  mountain  ;  and,  through  a  river 
of  the  same  name,  empties  its  waters  into  the  Saco.  Suna/iee  lake, 
N.  of  Sunapee  mountain,  is  8  m.ilea  long  and  3  broad,  and  empties 
through  Sugar  river  into  the  Connecticut.  Messabesic  is  a  large 
pond  in  Chester,  and  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Merrimac, 
from  which  it  is  distant  4  or  5  miles  to  t!ie  eastward. 

Mountains.  The  first  range,  about  30  miles  from  the  shore,  is 
called  the  Blue  Jlills.  Farther  back  the  mountains  rise  higher, 
and  assume  more  of  a  connected  character.  The  White  mountain 
range  enters  the  state  in  the  western  part,  and  passes  between  the 
■waters  of  the  Connecticut  and  Merrimac,  pursuing  a  course  N.  by 
E.  till  beyond  the  source  of  the  Pcmigcwasset,  it  bends  more  to 
the  right,  and  proceeds  N.  E.  by  N.  towards  the  sources  of  the 
Ameriscoggin.  The  White  mountains  are  a  spur  from  the  main 
range,  and  have  already  been  described.  Mooseliillock,  the  lofti- 
est summit  in  the  main  range,  is  about  4500  feet  high.  Sunapee 
is  in  the  same  chain  farther  S.  and  still  further  the  Monadnoc,  the 
height  of  which  is  3254  feet  above  the  sea.  Its  base  is  5  miles  long 
from  N.  to  S.  and  3  broad.  Its  sunmiit  is  a  bald  rock  ;  on  some 
parts  of  it  are  large  piles  of  broken  rocks  ;  and  the  sides  present 
volcanic  appearances,  Tliese  are  also  discoverable  on  West  Riv- 
er inountain,  in  Chesterfield,  on  Connecticut  river.  About  the 
year  1730  the  garrison  effort  Dummer  was  alarmed  with  frequent 
explosions,  and  with  columns  of  fire  and  smoke  emitted  from  the 
mountain.     The  san:ie  appearances  were  exhibited  in  1732. 

ISLANDS. 

The  Isles  of  Shoals,  8  in  number,  lie  9  miles  S.  E.  of  Portsmouth 
Sight  house,  and  21  N.  E.  from  the  light  houses  of  Newburyport, 
in  hit.  42  59  N.  long.  70  30  W.  from  London.  They  were  dis- 
covered by  Capt.  Smhh  in  1614,  and  called  Smith's  isles.  They 
consist  of  barren  rocks,  and  are  inhabited  by  about  100  souls,  who 
subsist  by  fishing.  Before  the  revolutionary  war,  these  isles  con- 
tahied  about  600  inhabitants  who  carried  on  the  fishery  to  a  great 
extent.  The  dinnb  Jinhi  as  it  is  called,  of  these  isles,  is  in  high  es- 
teem, at  the  tables  of  connoisseurs  in  fisli. 

These  islands  are  partly  in  Massachusetts,  and  partly  in  New- 
Hampshire,  arid  have  been  till  lately,  neglected  by  both,  as  to  the 
moral  and  religious  instruction  of  their  inhabitants.  See  a  full  ac- 
count of  these  isles  in  the  Historical  Collections,  vol.  vii.  p.  242. 


17 


130  DISTKICT  01'   MAL<t:. 


DISTRICT  OF  MAINE. 

£xtent.  THIS  District  lies  between  !at.  43  4  and  48  12  N. 
and  between  Ion.  64  54  and  70  40  W.  Its  ahape  is  nearly  tliat  of, 
a  rhombus.  The  northern,  eastern,  and  southern  frontiers  are  each 
about  240  miles  long,  and  the  western  J60.  The  average  length 
and  breadth  is  abcut  200  mitcs;  and  there  are  about  40,000  square 
miles,  or  25,600,000  acres,  nearly  one  half  of  wnich  are  settled,  or- 
settling. 

Boundaries.  N.  by  Lower  Canada,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  the  highlands  ;  E.  by  New-Brunswick,  from  which  it  is  separ- 
ated by  the  Si.  Croix,  and  a  line  .drawn  due  north  from  its  source 
to  the  highlands ;  S.  E.  anci  S.  by  the  Atlantic  ;  W.  by  the  Piscat- 
aqua  about  40  miles,  and  a  line  running  thence  due  north,  which 
divides  it  from  New-Hampshire. 

Divisions.     This  District  is  divided  into  8  counties,  viz. 
Counties. 
York 

Cumberland 
KennebfC 
Somerset 
Lincoln 
Hancock 
Washington 
Oxford 

Historical  Ejiochs.     The  first  attempt  to  settle  the  country  in 
1607. 

The  estublislmient  of  a  Dutch  fort  at  New-Castle. 
The  grant  of  the  district  by  the  British  crown  to  Sir  Ferdinand 
Goi'ges,  in  1635.     He  appointed  a  governor  and  council 
The  establishnicnt  of  a  government  by  the  settlers  in  1647. 
The  submission  of  the  inhabitants  to  the  government  of  Massa- 
chusetts in  1652. 

The  incorporaiion  of  the  district  with  Massachusetts  in  16'91,by 
a  charter  from   William  and  iN'Iary. 

The  various  wars  with  the  savages,  which  ended  in  their  almost 
total  extirpation. 

The  unsuccessful  attempts  of  some  of  the  inhabitants  in  1785, 
17G6,  and  1S02  to  cfTect,  in  a  peaceable  manner,  a  separation  of 
this  district  from  Massachusetts  Proper,  and  its  erection  into  an 
inde]5endent  state. 

litUgion.  Congrcgationalists  are  far  the  most  numerous.  The 
number  of  their  churches  is  91.  Next  to  them  arc  the  Baptists. 
There  are  a  few  Quakers,  many  IVli;thodists,  sonic  Episcopalians, 
Catholics,  and  Univtrsalists. 

Government.  Maine  is  an  integi-al  part  of  Massachusetts  ;  its 
jjo\  ernment  is  of  course  the  same. 

Fofiulaiion.  In  1790,  there  were  96,540  inhabitants.  In  ISOO, 
151,719.  In  1810,228,705.-  The  increase  in  the  first  ten  years 
"^vas  65,179,  or  more  than  57  percent.    The  increase  in  the  last. 


Inhabitants. 

Chief  towns. 

41,877 

York 

42,831 

Portland 

32,564 

Augusta 

12,910 

Norridgewcc 

42,992 

Wiscasset 

30,031 

Castine 

7,870 

Mac  bias 

17,630 

Paris 

DISTRICT  OF  MAINE.  ISi 

,cn  years,  was  T6, 986,  or  more  than  50  per  cent.     The  number  of 
inhabitants  in  1750  did  not  exceed  10,000. 

Militia.  The  militia  of  Massachusetts  arc  classed  in  thirteen 
divisions,  of  whicji  six  are  in  the  district  ot  Maine. 

Manners  end  Customs.  Tlie  fust  settlers  of  the  interior  of 
Maine  were  principally  employed  in  piocuiinj^  kuiiber.  A  lew  of 
them  were  hunters  and  fishermen.  Their  character  partook  of 
the  unsettled  and  roving  nature  of  their  pursuits,  and  the  vices  in- 
cident to  such  a  life  were  unhappily  prevalent.  Since  that  period 
they  have  become  fanners,  and  are  improving  in  their  circum- 
stances and  their  manners. 

Literature.  Sciiools  are  maintained  in  most  of  ihe  towns,  and 
in  many  of  the  plantations.  Seven  acadeniieb  have  l)een  establish- 
ed in  the  district ;  at  Portland,  Hallo  well,  lierv/ick,  Fiyeburj^,  Bath, 
Hainden,  and  Machias.  They  are  all  endowed  with  nanclsome 
grants  of  public  lands.  Bowdoin  Culhg'c,  in  Brunswick,  was  in- 
corporated in  1795.  It  is  namedaftcr  the  late  Hon.  James  Bowdoin^ 
ivhose  benefactions  amounted  to  §10,000.  He  bequeathed  to  it 
liis  valuable  library.  The  legislature  has  endowed  it  v.'ith  5  town- 
ships of  land  These  will,  in  time,  be  a  most  valuable  fund  to  the 
institution.  It  is  entrusted  to  a  board  of  1  3  trustees,  and  another 
boaid  of  45  overseers.  TIu;  buiidinys  are  two  cohege  edifices, 
and  one  chapel.  The  situation  is  pleasant,  and  the  institution 
;j)rosperous. 

Toii-?is.  PoKTLAND  is  built  on  a  peninsula  in  Casco  bay,  and 
•was  incorporated  in  1786.  The  haiboris  deep,  safe,  capacious, 
and  seldom  frozen  over.  It  is  one  of  the  most  commercial  towns 
in  Massacl.tisetts,  and  contains  7169  inhabitants.  Here  are  7 
churches,  3  Congregational,  i  Baptist,  1  Episcopalian,  1  Method- 
ist, and  I  Quaker,  a  brick  acadeniy  and  a  handsome  court  house. 
Forty  two  vessels  were  built  here  in  1810,  measuring  10,726  tons. 
A  light  house  was  erected  in  1790  on  a  point  of  land  called  Port- 
land Head  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor. 

Bath  is  a  very  flourishing  town  on  the  western  side  of  the  Ken- 
nebec, 1 6  miles  from  the  sea,  at  the  head  of  winter  navigation.  It 
is  the  £th  commercial  town  in  Massachusetts,  and  the  3d  in  popu- 
lation in  Maine,  containing  249 1  inhabitants.  It  has  two  Congre- 
gational churches. 

Wise  ASSET  is  on  the  Shecpscot,  10  miles  E.  of  the  Kennebec, 
and  12  from  the  sea.  The  river  is  here  navigable  for  the  largest 
ships..  The  town  contains  2083  inhabitants.  The  village  has  4 
streets  running  parallel  v4th  the  river,  crossed  at  rigiu  angles  by 
another  140  feet  wide, Reading  to  the  long  wliarf,  which  is  550  feet 
in  length.  On  this  street  stand  the  public  buildings,  which  arc  a 
Congregational  church,  and  a  court  house.  The  town  is  healthy. 
More  people  die  of  a  consumption  than  any  other  disease. 

Hallowell  is  a  pretty  village  on  the  western  side  of  the  Kenne- 
bec, 40  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  healthyj  and  contains  20G8  in- 
habitants. 

Augusta,  3  miles  above  Hallowell,  contains  1805  inhabitants. 
York  is  9  miles  from  Portsmouth,  and  contains  2  Congregation- 


132  DISTRICT  OF  MAINE. 

al  churches,  and  3046  inhabitants.     It  was  settled  in   1630,  and 
was  ilien  called  At^amenticus. 

Eastport,  on  Passamaquoddy  bay,  is,  in  embargo  times,  a  most 
busy,  bustling  villaije. 

Roads.  A  road  has  been  surveyed  from  Hallowell,  on  the  Ken- 
nebec, to  the  river  Chaudiere.  It  will  cross  the  highlands.  The 
distance  will  be  from  200  to  250  miles. 

Another  road  is  laid  out  from  Bangor,  on  the  Penobscot,  to  Que- 
bec, a  distance  of  about  200  miles  ;  course   N.   40  degrees  west. 

Commerce  and  Manufacttires.  Lumber  is  the  great  article  of 
export ;  particularly  masts,  and  every  species  of  ship  timber. 
White  pine  and  oak  boards  are  exported  in  immense  quantities. 
Dried  codfish,  pickled  salmon  and  shad  are  also  a  considerable  ar- 
ticle of  commerce. 

The  manufactures  of  the  district  are  done  in  families.  They 
consist  of  coarse  cloths  and  utensils  for  husbandry.  See  this  arti- 
cle in  Massachusetts  Proper. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  The  winters  though  severe  are  regular 
and  healthy,  they  commence  in  November  and  close  about  the  last 
of  March.  The  ground,  the  most  of  this  period,  is  covered  with 
snow,  and  the  harbors,  ponds,  and  rivers  frozen  over.  Apples 
flourish  in  the  interior  but  not  on  the  coast.  Indian  corn  grows  to 
to  a  good  size.  Pears  grow  in  all  parts  of  the  district.  Probably 
there  is  no  country  in  wiiich  the  inhabitants  enjoy  a  purer  air,  or 
a  more  healthy  climate. 

i'flce  of  the  Country.  The  district  of  Maine  is  an  elevated  coun- 
try, but  ratlier  uneven  tiian  hilly  or  mountainous.  The  land  rises 
very  gradually  from  the  coast,  and  most  of  it  is  capable  of  cultiva- 
tion. There  is  no  range  of  mountains  of  any  consequence,  except 
the  high  land  on  the  northern  frontier  Agamenticus  is  a  single 
Tnountain  in  York,  in  lat.  43  16,  of  considerable  height,  and  a  noted 
landmark  for  mariners. 

Soil  a?id  yJgriculiure.  The  soil  of  this  country  west  of  the  An- 
droscoggin is  rather  light  and  lean,  particularly  on  the  coast. 
With  proper  cultivation,  however,  it  yields  abundantly.  The  land 
on  the  Kennebec,  and  between  that  river  and  the  Penobscot,  is  ex- 
cellent and  well  adapted  to  tillage  and  pasture.  East  of  the  Pe- 
nobscot it  is  less  productive.  The  coast  furnishes  large  supplies 
of  rockweed.  It  is  an  excellent  manure  and  beginning  to  be  ex- 
tensively used.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  4000  acres  on  the 
coast,  each  yielding  annually  20  loads.  Ten  loads  spread  upon  an 
acre  are  reckoned  a  rich  manure  for  3  years.  This  is  an  excellent 
grazing  country,  and  supports  large  stocks  of  catt'  ;.  Wheat,  rye, 
barley,  oats,  peas,  hemp,  and  flax  flourish  and  arf  extensively  cul- 
tivated. Hops  are  the  spontaneous  growth  of  the  country.  Apples, 
plums,  cherries,  pears,  grapes,  raspberries,  gooseberries,  currants^ 
blackberries,  and  cranberries,  are  among  the  wild  fruits. 

Rivers.  The  St.  John.^  the  largest  river  in  the  district,  rises  in 
the  highlands,  and  runs  probably  more  than  half  its  course  in 
Maine. 

The  St.  Croix  is  an  inconsiderable  stream^  noticeable  principally 


DISTRICT  OF  MAINE.  133 

as  forming'  part  of  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  United  States,  The 
ScootUc  is  larger,  and  farther  west. 

The  western  branch  of  the  Penobscot  rises  west  of  Mooseheacl 
lake,  witiiiii  iJO  miles  of  the  branches  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  runs, 
at  one  point,  within  two  miles  of  that  river.  The  eastern  branch 
runs  through  several  small  lakes.  After  their  junction  the  course 
ofthe  river  is  nearly  S.  to  Penobscot  bay.  The  navig;ition  for 
boats  is  unobstructed  for  about  70  miles.  Vessels  of  30  tons  come 
•within  a  miie  of  the  head  of  the  tide.  The  whole  length  of  the 
river  is  about  300  miles. 

The  Ktnnebc-c  is  the  second  river  in  the  district.  It  derives  its 
name  from  a  race  of  sagamores  of  the  name  of  Kcnehis.  its  west- 
ern branch  rises  in  the  N.  W.  and  runs  a  great  distance  parallel 
with  the  Chaudicre,  but  in  opposite  directions,  the  Chaudiere  car- 
rying part  of  the  streams  of  the  highlands  north  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence, the  Kennebec  another  part,  south  to  the  Atlantic.  The 
boatabie  waters  of  the  two  rivers  are  only  5  miles  apart.  The  east- 
ei'n  branch  is  the  outlet  of  the  waters  of  Moose  lake,  and  runs  not 
more  than  30  miles  before  its  confluence  with  the  western,  at  the 
distance  of  100  miles  from  the  source  of  the  latter.  The  united 
stream  flowing  50  miles,  passes  the  ancient  tow'n  of  Norridgewoc, 
Avhere  it  receives  Sandy  river,  and  30  miles  below  is  joined  by  the 
Sebastacook  from  the  E.  which  comes  from  lakes  nearly  north  from 
its  mouth,  and  flows  150  miles.  Immediately  above  the  Sebasta- 
cook arc  the  fails  of  Karatunk,  the  largest  on  the  river.  Teconic 
falls  are  40  miles  farther  down.  They  form  ninnerous  mill  scats, 
and  a  lively  village  stands  upon  the  sliore.  The  head  ofthe  navi- 
gation for  sea  vessels  is  18  miles  below,  and  46  from  the  sea.  Here 
the  river  forms  a  large  bason  and  furnishes  very  commodious  an- 
choring ground.  Twenty  miles  from  the  sea,  the  Kennebec  re- 
ceives the  Androscoggin,  at  INIerry  Meeting  bay,  a  name  derived 
from  the  expansion  of  the  two  rivers  at  their  confluence.  The 
mouth  ofthe  Kennebec  is  a  bay  of  considerable  size 

The  And7osc6ggm  is  a  western  branch  of  the  Kennebec.  It 
rises  north  of  laLe  Umbagog,  in  New-Hampshire  and  runs  south-^ 
wardly  till  it  approaches  the  V/hite  Mountains,  from  which  it  re- 
ceives Moose  and  Peabody  rivers.  It  then  turns  E.  then  S.  then 
S.  E.  till  it  passes  within  two  miles  of  the  sea ;  then  turning  N.  it 
descends  the  Pejepscot  fails,  and  unites  with  the  Kennebec,  as  has 
been  mentioned. 

The  Saeo  rises  in  the  White  Mountains,  in  New-Hampshire,  in 
which  its  course  is  S.  Turning  to  the  N.  E.  it  enters  Maine,  and 
pursues  a  southeasterly  direction  to  Saco  bay.  It  is  navigable  for 
ships  6  miles  to  Saco  falls.  Here  a  number  of  valuable  saw-mills 
are  erected.  Vast  quantities  of  timber  are  floated  down  this  river. 
The  Saco  rises  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  Lower  Ammo- 
noosuc,  a  branch  of  the  Connecticut.  It  receives  Ossapec  river 
from  the  W. 

Piscaiaqua  river  bounds  iVIaine  on  the  west.  Its  course  is  prin- 
cipally in  New-Hampshire, 


134  MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER. 

Lakes.  Umdag'og  lies  partly  in  Maine  and  partly  in  Ne\r= 
Hampshire. 

Moosehead  lake  lies  in  the  northern  part  of  the  district,  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  highlands.  It  is  40  miles  long,  and  fiom 
10  to  15  wide,  indented  by  numerous  bays,  and  interspersed  witii 
beautiful  islands.  The  borders  are  varied  and  handsome.  The 
waters  abound  with  large  and  excellent  trout.  The  land  E.  and 
N.  W.  is  good,  S.  W.  it  is,  at  some  distance,  rough  and  moun- 
tainous. 

Lake  Sebacook,  18  miles  N.  W-  of  Portland,  is  a  considerable 
body  of  water,  and  is  connected  on  the  N  W.  with  Long  pond  by 
Sungo  river.  The  whole  extent  of  these  waters  are  nearly  30 
jiiiles. 

Mountains.  The  Spencer  mountains  lie  east  of  Moose  lake,  8 
or  10  miles  distant.     One  of  the  summits  is  very  high. 

Mount  Kataardin  is  an  eminence  about  80  miles  northerly  of 
Bangor,  in  the  crotch  of  Penobscot  river.  From  its  top  72  ponds 
are  said  to  be  visible. 

Mount  Kinio  lies  on  a  peninsula  on  the  east  side  of  Moosehead 
lake,  about  midway  from  N.  to  S.  It  is  very  high,  and  the  east 
side  is  nearly  perpendicular.     Its  substance  is  granitic. 

Minerals.  Mountain  and  bog  iron  ore  are  found  in  various  places. 
There  is  a  species  of  stone  in  Lebanon,  York  county,  which  yields 
copperas  and  sulphur. 


MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER. 

Extent.  THIS  state  lies  between  lat.  41  !23  and  43  52  N.  and 
between  Ion.  fi9  50  and  73  10  W.  Its  length,  on  the  northern 
line,  is  130  miles;  on  the  southern,  from  New-York  to  cape  Cod, 
190.  Its  breadth,  in  the  west,  is  50  miles  ;  farther  east,  it  is  about 
100  ;  and  on  the  cape  in  some  places  it  does  not  exceed  15.  The 
number  of  square  miles  is  6250. 

Boundaries.  Massachusetts  proper  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by 
Vermont,  New-Hampshire,  and  Massachusetts  bay  ;  on  the  E.  by 
the  same  bay  and  the  Atlantic  ;  on  the  S.  by  the  Atlantic,  Rhode 
Island  and  Connecticut ;  on  the  W.  by  Rhode  Island  and  New- 
York. 

Divisions.  Massachusetts  proper  is  divided  into  14  counties 
and  294  towns. 

Counties.  Towns.  Houses.  Population.  Chief  towns. 

1810    1800        1790        1800  1810 

Berkshire       52      4764     30,291     33,670     35,907  5  ^^°J^^^^"^^^° 

Hampshire  "J  f  Noiihamptoa 

Franklin*     [-64     9181     59,681     72,432     76,275  <  Greenfield 
Hampden   J  (_  Springfield 

*  Franklin  and  Hampden  are  new  tounties,  taken  from  the  northern  asd 
southern  parts  of  Hampshire  county. 


Massachusetts  proper. 


C^ountiei.  Towns. 

Houses 

i.           Population 

Chief  towns. 

1810 

1800 

1790 

1  800 

1810 

Worcester 

51 

9239 

56,807 

61,192 

64,910 

Worcester 

rCharlcstown 

Middlesex 

44 

6585 

42,757 

46,928 

52,789 

<  Cambridge- 
(^  Concord 

r  Newburypor 

<  Ipsv/ich 
(_  Salem 

Essex 

23 

7995 

57,913 

61,196 

71,838 

Suffolk 
Norfolk 

2 
32 

3286 
3429 

44,875  1 

)  28,015 
J  27,216 

34,381 
3  1,245 

Boston 
Dedham 

Plymouth 

18 

4387 

29,535  " 

30,073 

35,169 

Plymouth 

Bristol 

16 

4695 

31,709 

33,880 

37,168 

Taunton 

Barnstable 

14 

2537 

17,354 

19,293 

22,211 

Barnstable 

Duke's 

3 

463 

3,205 

3,1 18 

3,3yo 

Edgarton 

Nantucket 

I 

779 

4,620 

5,617 

6,807 

Sherburne 

Total  13        294   57,505    378,727   422,630     472,040 

The  number  of  representatives  to  Congress  for  the  -vThoIc  state 
is  20. 

Original  Pofiulation.  The  Pcivkicnnatvkuts  occupied  the  terri- 
tory of  Plymouth  colony.  This  "  great  people,"  together  with  the 
Massachusetts.^  were  swept  away  in  great  numbers  by  an  epidem- 
ical sickness  in  the  years  1512,  1613,  7  or  8  years  before  the  Ply- 
mouth colony  arrived.*  The  Massachusetts  Indians  possessed 
the  principal  part  oi  the  counties  of  Suffolk,  Norfolk,  and  Middle- 
sex. The  Pa'vjtucketts  and  their  tributaries,  the  FcnnakQoks<f 
Agaivoinesf  Xaamkeeks^  Sec.  occupied  Essex  and  the  northern  parts 
<rf  Middlesex  counties  and  tiie  contiguous  parts  of  Nevv'-IIamp- 
shire.  The  J^ashaways  held  the  noithcrn  parts  of  the  county  of 
Worcester  ;  and  the  .Vifunuks  or  jVi/incts,  the  southern.  On 
Connecticut  river  a  succession  of  small  tribes  inhabited  the  county 
of  Hampshire  and  seem  to  have  had  no  common  bond  of  union. 
The  Moheakanne etas^  properly  so  called,  or  Stockbridge  Indians-, 
occupied  the  county  of  Berkshire  and  the  neighboring  parts  of 
the  state  of  New-York. f 

Historical  Epochs.  In  1 51  i  the  coast  of  Massachusetts  was  dis- 
covered and  minutely  cxplorctl  by  Capt.  John  Smith.  Several 
iisliing  voyages  were  made  on  the  coast  3  or  4  years  afterwards. 

In  1620  Plymouth  was  settled  l)y  a  part  of  Mr.  Robinson's  con- 
gregation, under  Carver  and  Bradford,  and  in  1621  the  charter  of 
Plymoutl^  colony  arrived. 

In  1628  the  toundation  of  Massachusetts  colony  was  laid,  the 
patent  was  granted,  and  Salem  and  Charlestown  settled  ;  and,  in 
the  following  year  the  charter  was  cuiifi'*nieci  by  the  king,  and  ^ 
form  of  government  established  lor  Mu..sachusetts  coloi;y  in  En- 
gland, and  the  i.:overnrnent  triinstVrrcd  from  England  to  the  colony. 
The  last  clia'.'ter  of  Plymoutii  colony  was  procured  in  Janu?.ry,  1630, 


•  Gookin,  Kist.  Coll.  vol.  i.  p.  MS. 
I  Df,  Dwight's  manuscripts. 


iG«  MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER. 

The  first  court  of  assistants  was  holden  for  Massachusetts  at 
Charlestown,  in  August,  and  the  first  general  court  at  Boston,  in 
October  of  the  same  year. 

In  1634  the  charter  of  Plymouth  colony  was  surrendered  to  the 
crown.  An  attempt  Avas  made  the  same  year  to  compel  the  sur- 
render of  the  charter  of  Massachusetts,  and  again  in  [638,  hut  they 
miscarried.  The  patent  of  Plymouth,  in  1641,  was  transferred  to 
the  freemen. 

In  1643  the  four  colonies  of  Massachusetts,  Plymouth,  Connect- 
icut, and  New-Haven,  entered  into  articles  of  union,  styling  them- 
selves I'he  United  Colonies  of  Kew-  Ritgland.  Rhode  Island,  pe- 
titioning to  be  a  member  of  the  confederacy,  was  refused.  The 
same  year  the  state  was  divided  into  counties  ;  and  the  general 
court  the  year  after  into  two  houses. 

The  colony  engaged  in  Philip's  war  in  1675. 

A  quo  nvarranto  issued  against  the  colony  in  1685  ;  judgement 
was  given  against  it  in  chancery  the  next  year,  and  its  charter  was 
taken  away. 

James  II.  in  16S5  aj)pointed  Joseph  Dudley  president  of  Massa- 
chusetts, Ncu-Hampshirc,  Maine,  and  Rhode  Island.  His  admin- 
istration continued  but  a  short  time. 

On  the  accession  of  William  and  Mary,  in  1689,  a  council  of 
safety  was  appointed  by  the  freemen,  and  the  assembly  resumed 
the  charter. 

A  new  chai^ter  was  granted  in  1  692,  by  which  Plymouth,  Maine, 
New-Brunswick,  and  Nova  Scotia,  were  annexed  to  Massachu- 
eelts  ;  but  the  governor  and  council  were  to  be  appointed  by  the 
crown.  An  explanatory  charter  was  annexed  to  this  in  1726,  and 
accepted  by  the  freemen. 

In  1745  tl'.e  troops  of  Massachusetts,  Connecticut,  and  New- 
Hampshire  sailed  for  Cape  Breton,  and  took  Louisburg  from  the 
French. 

In  1765  this  colony  proposed  a  general  congress  (which  met  at 
Kew-York)  to  resist  the  encroacimients  of  Parliament.  It  sent 
circular  letters  in  1768  to  all  the  provinces,  to  excite  them  to  in- 
sist on  a  redress  of  grievances.  The  general  court  was  imme- 
diately dissolved  by  the  governor,  and  a  convention  soon  afterwards 
met  at  Boston.  The  day  after  it  rose,  the  town  was  occupied  by 
British  troops. 

The  destruction  of  the  tea  in  the  harbor  occurred  in  1773,  and 
the  shutting  \\\>  of  the  port  by  parliament,  the  next  year.  Tiie  gen- 
eral court  proposed  a  second  congress,  and  chose  delegates.  It 
mefat  Pldladelphia  in  September.  The  legislature  resolved  itself 
into  a  provincial  assembly,  and  met  at  Concord. 

The  battle  of  Lexington  wab  fought  on  the  19th  of  April,  1775, 
and  an  army  iinmediately  raist  d  by  the  province. 

The  battle  of  Breed's  liill,  so  honorable  to  American  valor,  was 
fought  June  17th,  and  the  eastern  part  of  the  state  was  the  theatre 
of  vvar  till  March,  1776. 

The  state  constitution  was  agreed  on  in  March,  1780. 

The  complete  abolition  of  slavery  was  effected  in  1783. 


MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER.  137 

A  serious  insurrection  took  place  in  the  western  counties  in  1786, 
in  consequence  of  the  burden  of  the  taxes.  The  great  body  of  the 
insurgents  were  in  Hampshire  county,  and  were  headed  by  Daniel 
Shays.  It  was  quelled  early  in  the  following  year  by  gen.  Shep- 
ard. 

Religion.  The  most  numerous  denomination  is  that  of  the  Con- 
gregationalists,  of  which  there  are  about  350  churches,  vviiich  are 
supplied  by  nearly  an  equal  number  of  pastors  and  candidates. 
The  Baptists  are  next  in  number,  then  the  Methodists,  Episcopa- 
lians, (which  have  14  churches  and  8  ministers)  Universalists,  and 
a  few  Quakers. 

Government.  The  executive  consists  of  a  governor,  lieutenant 
governor,  and  a  council  of  9  members.  Tiie  tvvo  first  are  chosen 
by  the  people  annually.  The  council  is  chosen  by  the  Icgisiaiui'e 
out  of  the  40  returned  as  senators  ;  and,  if  they  decline,  fiom  the 
mass  of  the  people.  The  legislature,  called  also  The  General 
Cowr^,  consists  of  a  Senate  and  Huuse  of  Rcprese.itatives,  both 
chosen  annually  by  the  people.  The  senators  are  chosen  by  dis- 
tricts. The  representatives  by  the  towns.  Each  town  having  1  50 
rateable  polls  sends  one,  and  another  for  every  additional  225  polls. 
They  assemble  annually  in  May  and  January.  The  governor's  as- 
sent is  necessary  to  the  passage  of  a  bill,  unless  (after  he  withholds 
it)  two  thirds  of  both  houses  vote  for  it.  The  judiciary  is  compos- 
ed of  a  supreme  court,  having  5  judges,  and  sitting  twice  a  year  in 
each  county  ;  county  courts  having  5  judges  ;  a  court  of  probate 
in  each  county  ;  and  justice's  courts.  These  courts  are  subject  to 
different  modifications  by  law. 

Po/iulation.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  Massachusetts,  in- 
cluding Maine,  was  in  the  year 

1731  about  1 20,000  .  ^      ?  373,324  whites 

1 742  about  1 64,000  I      5,463  blacks 

1749  220,000  C  416,393  whites 

,„,„  C  255,8  10  whites  >„.,  __,  I      6,452  blacks  , 

I      5,2 14  blacks  5  ..     \  465,303  whites  > 

iTo^  S  353,133  whites^  „_  \      6,737  blacks  t 

\  4,377  blacks  5 
At  the  first  census,  Massachusetts  was  the  second  state  in  point  a£ 
population,  at  the  second  and  third,  tl.e  fourth.  Its  white  popula- 
tion in  1790  was  the  largest,  and  is  now  the  third.  The  annual 
emigration  from  this  state  is  larger  than  from  any  other,  though 
not  so  large  in  proportion  as  from  Connecticut. 

Militia.  The  militia  of  Massachusetts  is  composed  of  white 
male  citizens  from  18  to  45  years  of  age.  It  is  completely  armed 
and  organized,  and  in  as  good  a  stiite  of  discipluie  as  any  real  mil- 
itia in  the  world,  it  being  assembled  by  companies  three  times  a 
year,  for  discipline,  and  once  tor  revising  the  rolls  and  making  re- 
turns, and  also  once  by  regiments  or  battalions  for  review  and  in" 
spection.  In  Jan.  1805,  from  returns  then  made  to  the  governor, 
there  were  in  this  whole  commonwealth  10  div'sions,  in  which 
were  58,87<>  infanlrvi  267?  cavslry.  and  55r?l  artillery,  makings, 
18  ' 


%Sg  MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER. 

total  of  64,039.     In   1 8 1 1 ,  there  were  1 3  divisions,  which  formled* 
38  brigades,  in  which  were 

103  regiments  of  infantry 
71  companies  of  cavalry 
70  companies  of  artillery 
Whole  number  of  infantry  (including  officers)         64,930 
Do.  cavalry  2,730 

Da.  artillery  3,050 

70,710 

The  whole  number  of  persons  in  the  commonwealth,  between 
16  and  45  years  of  aee,  is  133,354;  so  that  the  militia  rolls  contain 
a  little  more  than  half  the  number  between  these  ages. 

Revenue.  The  taxes  of  the  year  18  lO  amounted  to  gl66.723-29 
On  the  first  of  Jan.  1811,  the  state  ovvt-d  S809.884  64,  and  there 
was  then  due  to  the  state  551,055,958-94,  leaving  a  balance  in  its 
favor  of  8250,074-30. 

Bank}}.  There  are  at  present  17  banks  in  Massachusetts  prop- 
er, and  5  in  the  District  of  Maine. 

Manners.  Every  town  is  provided  with  schools,  and  with  one- 
or  more  churches.  Children  of  both  sexes  acquire  the  rudiments 
of  learning,  and  great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  are  liberally  edu- 
cated. Most  of  them  attend  public  worship  on  the  sabbath,  and 
good  order  and  sobriety  prevail  during  the  week.  The  public 
execution  of  a  native  citizen  is  a  very  rare  occurrence,  and  the  num- 
ber of  petty  offences  is  small,  compared  with  that  in  most  other 
countries.  The  state's  prison,  or  penitentiary,  contains  short  of  200 
prisoners.  The  great  body  of  the  people  are  agriculturists.  They 
live  in  towns,  and  are  the  proprietors  of  the  soil;  there  are  few 
poor  in  the  European  sense  of  the  word  ;  but  many  individuals  who 
are  opulent.  Respectability  and  a  competence  are  open  to  all, 
and  are  possessed  by  the  mass  of  the  inhabitants. 

Literature.  There  are  two  public  seminaries  in  Massachusetts 
proper,  viz  the  university  of  Cambridge,  and  Williams  College. 

Harvard  College,  now  the  University  in  Cambridge, 
takes  i'.s  date  from  the  year  1638. 

In  that  year,  the  Ri  v.  John  Harvard,  of  Charlestown,  died,  and 
left  a  leg;acy  of  779/.  17.9  2rf.  sterling,  being  one  half  of  his  estate, 
to  the  public  school  at  Newton,  (now  Cambridge  )  In  honor  to  the 
memory  of  so  liberal  a  benefactor,  the  court  ordered  that  the 
school  should  take  the  name  of  Harvard  College 

The  general  govcrnmc-nt  of  the  college  is  committed  to  a  cor- 
poration and  a  board  of  overseers.  The  board  of  overseers  consists 
of  the  y;overnor,  lieutenant  governor,  council,  and  senate  ;  of  the 
president,  and  clergy  of  tl'C  towns  of  Boston,  Cambridge,  Water- 
town,  Charlestown,  Roxbury,  and  Dorchester.  The  corporation 
consists  of  the  president,  five  fellows  and  the  treasurer.  To  the 
corporation  is  committed  all  the  estate  of  the  college. 

All  elections  to  fill  up  vacancies  in  their  own  body  are  made  by 
the  corporation  ;  they  also  choose  all  the  executive  officers ;  but; 
all  these  elections  are  laid  before  the  board  of  overseers  for  thei^- 


MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER.  139 

conOjrrence,  as  also  all  their  votes  for  the  enaction  of  standing 
laws,  granting  of  salaries  to  the  officers  of  the  university,  and  con- 
ferring of  academical  degrees.  Otiier  affairs  respecting  the  uni- 
versity, the  corporation  manage  according  to  their  own  discretion. 

The  executive  government  consists  of  the  president,  professors, 
tutors,  a  regent,  the  librurian,  and  two  proctors.  Their  busmest.  is 
to  watch  over  the  morals  of  the  students,  to  see  that  the  standing 
laws  are  obeyed,  and  to  make  discretionaiy  regulations  in  cases 
not  provided  for  by  the  laws. 

The  professors  and  tutors  give  instruction  in  the  university. 
There  is  a  professor  of  divinity,  of  mathematics  &nd  natural  phi- 
losophy, of  Hebrew  and  other  oriental  languages,  of  biblical  criti- 
cism, of  rhetoric  and  oratory,  of  logic,  nutaphysics,  and  etliics,  of 
natural  history,  of  the  Latin,  and  of  the  Gieek  languages.  Of  the 
four  tutors,  one  teaches  the  Latin  language  ;  another  tiie  Greek  ; 
another  geography  and  the  elements  of  geometry,  natural  philoso- 
phy, and  astronomy.  The  instructions  of  the  tutors  are  given  pri- 
vately to  the  classes  separately  ;  those  of  the  professors  ii^lectures, 
and  to  the  two  upper  classes  only. 

The  students  are  annually  examined  in  the  several  branches  to 
•which  they  have  attended  in  the  course  of  their  education,  before 
a  committee  of  the  corporation  and  overseers. 

All  academical  degrees  are  piibjicly  conferred  by  the  president 
on  the  commencement  day,  which  is  the  last  Wednesday  in  Au- 
■gust,  annually.  This  is  one  of  the  most  splendid  anniversaries  in 
the  United  States. 

For  a  number  of  years  before  the  revolution,  there  were  from 
180  to  190  undergraduates  at  the  university.  During  the  war  they 
very  much  decreased.  Since  the  conclusion  of  the  war  they  have 
been  gradually  increasing,  and  there  were  in  18U2,  220  under- 
graduates ;  in  181 1,  255.  Indigent  students  are  much  assisted  iq 
their  education,  by  charitable  funds  belonging  to  the  university. 

In  the  year  1782,  a  medical  institution  was  formed  in  the  univer- 
sity. It  consists  of  a  professorship  of  anatomy  and  surgery,  of  the 
theory  and  practice  of  medicine,  of  chymistry  and  materia  medica, 
and  of  clinical  medicine.  Each  of  the  professors  is  established 
upon  a  foundation. 

These  professors  give  a  complete  course  of  lectures  in  their 
several  branches,  commencing  on  the  first  Wednesday  in  October, 
annually,  at  Boston  ;  and  are  pursued  till  each  professor  has  fin- 
ished his  course.  The  senior  class,  and  medical  students  attend 
these  lectures. 

There  are  four  handsome  public  buildings  occupied  by  the  stu- 
dents ;  also  a  chapel,  and  a  large  hall  containing  public  rooms. 
The  library  contains  17,000  volumes,  and  is  annually  increasing. 
Exclusive  of  the  Boylston  medical  library,  which  is  large  and  val- 
uable, this  is  the  largest  collegiate  library  in  America.  The  philo- 
sophic&J  apparatus  is  also  complete  and  excellent.  The  latitude 
of  Harvard  Hail  is  42°  28'  28"  N.  the  longitude  71°  7'  3o"  W- 

Williams  College,  in  Williamstown,  in  the  northwest  corner 
of  the  state,  was  founded  in  i793,  and  named  after  Col.  Ephraim 


140  MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER. 

Williams,  its  principal  benefactor.  The  legislature  of  the  college 
is  composed  of  a  corporation  of  15  members,  of  which  the  presi- 
dent is  one  ;  a  president,  a  professor  of  law  and  civil  polity,  a  pro- 
f^sor  of  mathematics  and  natural  philosophy,  and  three  tutors. 
There  are  two  collegiate  buildings  for  the  reception  of  students. 
The  commencement  is  on  the  first  Wed/iesday  in  September. 

Phillips  Academt,  in  Andover,  JO  miles  N.  of  Boston,  was 
founded  and  handsomely  endowed  inl778,  byibe  Hon.  Samuel 
Phillips,  esq.  of  Andover,  and  his  brother  the  Hon.  John  Phillips, 
LL  D.  of  Exeter,  and  incorporated  in  \7iiO.  It  is  under  the  di- 
rection of  a  board  of  13  trustees,  and  the  immediate  care  of  a  prin° 
cipal,  who  is  a  trustee,  eoc  officio,  an  assistant  and  a  writing  master. 

The  design  of  this  foundation,  according  to  its  constitution,  is, 
"  The  promotion  of  true  piety  and  virtue,  the  instruction  of  youth 
in  the  English,  Latin,  and  Greek  languages  ;  together  with  writing, 
arithmetic,  practical  geometry,  music  and  oratory,  logic  and 
geography  ;  and  such  other  of  the  liberal  arts  and  sciences,  or  lan- 
guages, as  opportunity  and  ability  may  hereafter  admit,  and  the 
trustees  sliall  direct."  Its  funds  amount  to  between  g50,000  and 
260,000. 

Lib(^ral  provision  was  made  in  the  funds  of  this  academy,  by  the 
late  Dr.  John  Phillips,  for  the  assistance  of  indigent  young  men  of 
genius  and  piety,  and  of  students  in  divinity. 

Provision  having  been  made  for  the  puipose,  in  the  original  con- 
stitution of  this  respectable  academy,  a  theological  institution 
■was  established,  and  annexed  to  it,  which  was  opened  for  the  in- 
struction of  students  in  divinity,  in  the  autumn  of  1808.  This  new 
and  distinct  branch  of  Phillips  Academy  was  founded  by  Samuel 
Abbot,  esq.  who  gave  g20,000  to  support  a  professor  of  Christian 
theology,  and  madam  Photbe  Phillips,  relict  of  the  late  lieut.  gov. 
Samuel  Phillips,  and  her  son  the  Hon.  John  Phillips,  esq.  of  Ando- 
ver, who  gave  the  buildings.  To  this  theological  institution  is  an- 
nexed an  .'Associate  Foundation^  made  by  Moses  Brown,  and  Wil- 
liam Bartlett,  esqrs.  merchants  of  Newburyport  and  the  Hon. 
John  Norris,  of  Salem,  who  gave  each  5^10,000,  for  the  support  of 
an  associate  professor,  and  of  theological  students.  William 
Bartlett,  esq.  has  also  given  g20,000,  as  a  fund  for  the  support  of 
a  professor  of  sacred  rhetoric,  and  has  erected  two  houses  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  professors.  In  addition  to  these  liberal  do- 
nations, the  late  Mrs.  Norris,  relict  of  the  Hon  John  Norris,  above 
named,  has  bequeathed  ^30,000  to  this  institution.  The  trustees 
of  Phillips  academy  have  the  immediate  care  and  direction  of  the 
theological,  as  well  of  the  academical  institution.  The  theological 
institution  is  also  under  the  inspection  of  a  board  of  visitors,  con- 
sisting of  two  clergymen  and  one  layman*  (together  with  the 

*  The  present  board  of  visitors  are 

Rev.  Timothy  Dwight,  D.  D.LL.  D. president  of  Yale  coIlegeT  p^jmanent 
Rev.  Samuel  Spring,  D.  D.  >      Board." 

Hon  Georire  Bliss,  esq. 


Mofes  Brown,  esq  1  xkr.     a 

V/iUiam  Bartlett,  esr.        I  ifounati 


MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER.  141 

ioundcrs  during  life)  who  have  a  voice  in  the  election  and  removal 
of  the  professors,  and  ether  usual  xnaitatoriul  pov/ers. 

The  immediate  instruction  and  government  of  the  students  is 
committed  to  three  professors,  viz.  a  professor  ot  Cliristian  tlieolQ- 
gy,  a  professor  of  sacred  literature,  and  a  professor  of  pulpit  elo- 
quence. The  present  number  of  students,  consisting  of  graduates 
from  the  colleges,  is  between  50  and  60,  the  grealt;r  part  of  whom 
are  supported,  either  wholly  or  in  part  by  the  funds  of  the  institu- 
tion and  by  private  bounty.  The  whole  scheme  of  divine  truth,  as 
revealed  in  the  holy  scriptures,  is  here  proitssedly  taught,  and  a 
fair  view  of  all  the  controverted  doctrines  of  Christianity  and  forms 
of  ecclesiastical  government  and  discipline  exhibited,  from  tUc 
iiblest  writers  on  all  sides,  and  the  pupils  left  free  to  form  each  ids 
own  opinions.  The  professors  are  always  to  be  nien,  wlio,  having 
exj.mined  for  themselves,  siiall  have  embraced,  as  the  genuine  doc- 
trines ot  the  gospel,  the  great  doctrines  of  the  reformation,  sum- 
jiiUiily  expressed  in  .the  assembly's  shorter  catechism. 

Tlic  libiary,  at  present,  consist  of  2500  select  volumes  of  the 
most  appropriate  and  excellent  authors. 

Tills  institution  promises  to  be  a  fruitful  and  salutary  nursery  to 
the  church,  and  an  important  mean  of  elevating  tlie  standaid  of 
theological  learning,  and  of  correcting  and  harmonizing  religious 
opinions  among  the  clergy  of  New-England. 

DuMMER  Academy,  in  Newbury,  was  founded  in  IfSG,  isun= 
der  fifteen  trustees,  has  funds  yielding  glOOO  a  yea;,  a  commodi- 
ous building,  and  a  handsome  library. 

Leicester  academy,  in  the  town  of  Leicester,  was  incorporated 
in  1784;  Bristol  academy  at  Taunton,  in  1792;  and  Derby  acad- 
emy at  Hingham,  in  1797. 

There  ai^e  public  academies  also  at  Plymouth,  Sandwich,  Ded- 
ham,  Lynn,  Westford,  Groton,  Deerfield,  and  oih.ers. 

By  a  law  of  the  state,  every  town  containing  50  families  must 
maintain  a  common  English  school  ;  and  every  town  havint>-  200 
families,  a  grammar  school  for  instructing  in  Latin  and  Greek, 
Penalties  are  inflicted  on  those  who  disobey  this  law. 

Literary^  Religious,  and  Bentvoltnt  Societies.  Thet;c  institu- 
tions are  numerous  and  respectable,  and  exhibit  a  fair  trait  in  the 
character  of  the  inhabitants.  Their  good  influence  is  felt  to  u 
great  extent  throughout  the  commonwealth. 

Tow7is.  Boston  is  the  largest  town  hi  New-England.  It  was 
settled  in  November,  1630,  from  Charlestown,  and  called  Shazamit 
by  the  Indians,  and  Trimomitain  by  the  first  settlers.  It  was  aU 
terv/ards  named  Boston,  out  of  respect  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cotton, 
formerly  minister  of  Boston  in  England.  It  stands  on  an  irregular 
peninsula,  2  miles  lone,  and  in  the  broadest  place  1  mile  and  1. 39  yards 
wide,  at  the  head  of  Massachusetts  bay.  The  buildings  cover  up- 
wards of  1000 acres.  The  peninsula  is  joined  to  the  main  land  at  the 
south  end,  by  a  narrow  isthmus,  called  Roxbury  neck.  The  har- 
bor, east  of  the  town,  is  large  enough  to  receive  500  ships  in  a 
good  depth  of  water ;  while  the  entrance  will  scarcely  admit  2 
^ihips  abreast.     It  is  diversified  by  40  islajids.     On  one  of  these 


142  MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER. 

stands  Fort  Independence,  3  miles  from  the  town,  which  commands 
the  entrance  :  the  works  arc  new  and  strong.  The  wiiarves  and 
quays  are  about  80  in  number.  Long  wharf  is  1743  feet  long,  and 
104  broad.  On  the  north  and  west  of  the  town  is  the  estuary  of 
Charles  river.  The  streets  of  the  town  are  gentrally  narrow  and 
crooked,  and  laid  out  without  regard  to  convenience  or  taste.  Those 
in  West-Boston,  State  and  India  streets,  and  a  few  others,  ought 
to  be  excepted.  There  arc  97  streets,  36  lanes,  26  alleys,  and  18 
courts.  The  number  of  houses,  in  1800,  was  2870.  Those  in  the 
old  town  are  generally  plain  ;  but  in  \Vesl-Bo3ton  and  round  tne 
common,  there  is  more  magnificence  in  tlie  builduic;s,  than,  m  the 
same  compass,  in  any  town  in  the  United  States.  The  population 
©f  Boston,  m  1790,  was  18,u38;  in  ;800,  24,937;  and  in  ISia, 
33,250  *  The  [)ublic  buildings  are  an  old  and  new  statehouse, 
Faneuil  hail,  a  handsome  courtliouse  of  stone,  a  thcacre,  concert 
hall,  gaol,  almshouse,  exchange,  athenaeum  ,Franklin  place,  which 
is  the  depository  of  the  valuable  collections  of  the  Historical  Society, 
23  churclies,  viz.  10  Congregalionalists,  2  Episcopalians,  3  Baptists, 
I  Unitaiian,  1  Friends  meeting  house,  2  Meti^odists,  1  Roman 
Catholic,  1  African  Baptist,  and  1  place  of  worship  for  travelling 
preachers.  Several  of  the  churches  are  elegant  edifices.  The 
uthenaum  is  the  noblest  thing  of  the  kind  in  America.  The  ex- 
change is  an  immense  pile,  7  stories  high,  124  fcct  long,  and  103 
wide,  containing  202  rooms.  The  new  state  house  fronts  south- 
east upon  the  common,  which  is  a  handsome  open  field,  containing 
45  acres,  and  limited  on  the  east  by  the  Mall,  a  fine  walk  600  yards 
long,  and  adorned  by  two  rows  of  trees.  The  building  is  173  feet 
k)ng,  61  deep,  and  50  high,  besides  an  attic  story  in  the  centre,  60 
feet  wide  and  20  high,  and  a  circular  dome  above  it,  30  feet  high, 
and  50  in  diameter.  On  the  top  of  the  dome  is  an  elegant  circular 
lantliorn,  supporting  a  gilt  white-pine  cone.  Boston  has  4  banks, 
the  capital  of  which  amounts  to  S7, 600,000.  It  contains  30  distil- 
leries, 2  breweries,  8  sugar  houses,  1 1  rope  walks,  a  casting  fur- 
nace, a  large  glass  house,  and  extensive  manufactures  of  paper 
liangings,  cards,  candles,  and  stone  ware.  In  commerce  it  is  sur- 
passed only  by  New-York  and  Philadelphia.  The  country  market 
is  excellei\t,  as  is  the  fish  market,  except  as  to  shell-fish.  Boston 
is  not  a  city,  but  a  town,  governed  by  9  selectmen,  chosen  annually 
by  the  people.     Lat.  42  23  N.  Ion.  71   5  W. 

Salem  was  settled  in  1628.  The  Indian  name  was  Alaumkeag, 
It  is  the  second  town,  both  in  age  and  size,  in  New-England,  and 
is  1  3  miles  N.  E.  of  Boston.  It  is  built  on  a  peninsula,  formed  by 
two  small  inlets  of  the  sea.  The  northern  is  Beverly  harbor,  a 
<lrawbridge  passes  over  it  1500  feet  long,  and  is  a  station  for  a 
small  part  of  the  vessels  of  Salem.  But  the  south  inlet  is  the 
proper  harbor  of  the  toAvn.  It  is  so  shallow,  that  vessels  drawing 
iO  feet  of  water,  must  load  in  the  channel  at  a  distance  from  the 

*  If  the  inliabitanis  of  t\c  towns  of  Charlestown,  C^mbriclge,  and  Roxbury, 
which,  in  point  of  local  situation,  may  be  considered  as  suburbs  of  Boston,  were 
:\dded,  the  number  would  amount  to  44,201,  nearly  half  thenupiher,  as  in  New^ 
York,  and  Philadelphia. 


MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER.  ^     UG 

V^harves.  The  streets  and  houses  are  generally  neat,  but  plain. 
The  town  contains  6  Congregational  churches,  1  Episcopalian,  2 
Biptist,  I  Friends,  and  I  Universalist.  The  number  of  houses,  in 
1830,  was  980.  The  population,  in  1790,  was  7921;  in  1800, 
9547,  and  in  1810,  12,613.  Here  are  three  banks,  having  together 
a  capital  of  8700,000. 

Beverly  lies  north  of  Salem,  fiom  which  it  is  separated  by  a 
hanusome  toll  bridi^e.  It  is  a  con»mcrci;.il  town,  is  largely  con- 
cerned in  the  fisiicries,  has  3  Congregatiorial  churches  and  1  Bap- 
tist, a  bank  with  a  capital  of  ^160,000,  and  4608  inhabitants. 

Marblehead  is  built  on  a  peninsula,  4  miles  southeast  from 
Salem;  and  has  2  Congregational  churches,  1  Episcopalian,  and  I 
Baptist,  and  a  few  Methodists.  The  harbor,  on  the  southeast  side 
of  the  town,  is  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  half  a  mile  broad.  Tho^ 
inliabitants  are  occupied  almost  wliolly  in  the  bank  fishery.  It  has 
a  bank  with  a  capital  of  S  100,000.  Population,  in  1 800,  5211;  ia 
1810,5900. 

NEWBiTnYPORT  is  33  miles  N.  E.  of  Boston,  and  2-|  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Merrimac,  and  is  the  third  commercial  town  in  the 
state.*  The  harbor  is  safe,  large,  and  deep,  but  difficult  to  enter. 
It  contains  7  churches  ;  3  Congregational,  2  Pres!)ytcr;an,  I  J\ph- 
copalian,  and  I  Baptist  ;  a  court  house,  gaol,  bank,  and  10  pijblic 
schools.  The  population,  in  I  800,  was  5948  ;  and  in  1810,  7634. 
The  town  contains  but  one  square  mile.  The  site  is  a  beautiful 
declivity.  Most  of  the  streets  are  wide  and  handsome,  and  cross 
each  other,  nearly  at  right  angles.  The  houses  are  very  hand- 
somely built  ;  and  the  town  has,  perhaps,  no  rival  in  point  of  beau- 
ty, in  the  United  States. 

Nevi^-Bedford,  in  the  county  of  Bristol,  is  a  thriving  commer- 
cial town,  58  miles  southward  of  Boston.     It  has  5651   inhabitants. 

Plymouth,  42  miles  S.  E.  of  Boston,  is  the  oldest  town  in  New- 
England,  and  was  settled  in  1620.  It  has  a  large,  but  shallow 
harbor  ;  and  contains  3  Congregational  churches,  and  4223  in- 
habitants. The  rock  on  which  the  pilgrims  landed  is  slill  recog- 
nized here,  and  the  anniversary  of  their  landing  is  celebrated. 

Ipswich,  the  jigawnm  oi  \.he  Indians,  35  miles  N.  N.  E.  from 
Boston,  contains  5  parishes,  and  3569  inhabitants.  Its  natural  sit- 
uation is  pleasant,  but  it  has  many  appearances  of  decline. 

Charlestowx,  the  Indian  Mishawumy  is  N.  of  Boston,  and  con- 
nected with  it  by  Charles  river  bridge,  3846  feet  in  length.  I;. 
stands  on  a  pleasant  peninsula,  formed  by  Mystic  river  on  the  cast, 
and  a  bay  setting  up  from  Charles  river  on  the  west.  Two  bridges 
coiinect  it  with  Maiden  and  Chelsea,  on  tlie  east.  It  contains  700 
houses,  and  4959  inhabitants,  a  Congregational  and  a  Baptist 
church,  and  one  for  Universalists,  an  almn  house,  and,  on  the  Mys- 
tic, a  marine  hospital  and  a  navy  yard,  belonging  to  the  United 
States.  The  state  prison  is  at  the  west  extremity  of  the  town.  Is. 
is  200  feet  by  44;  and  has  5  stories.     The  foundation  is  of  rocks  oi 

*  Newhuryport  and  Newbury,  which  have  no  separation  but  that  which  i? 
found  in  the  Statute  Book,  contained  together,  in  181Q,  12,810  inh.ibitants,  a 
little  larger  population  than  that  of  Salem. 


lu'  IMASSACHUSETTS  PROPER. 

2  ton;i  wcigbl  each.  On  this  is  laid  a  tier  of  hewn  stone,  9  feet 
Ion;-'  and  20  iiiches  thick,  forming  the  first  floor.  The  outer  walls 
arc  4,  and  llie  partition  wails  2  feet  thick,  of  hard  a^ranite,  trom  6 
lo  14  feet  long.  The  prison  yard  is  400  feet  by  300  ;  and  has  a 
■wall  l.T  feet  high,  and  5  feet  thick.  The  number  of  prisonei's  is 
about  200. 

WoRCicsTEii  is  40  miles  W.  from  Boston,  pleasantly  situated  in 
a  valley,  and  contains  2  Congregational  cnurches,  a  beautiful  court 
house,  a  bank,  and  a  strong  stone  gaol.     The  population  is   2577. 

NoiiTHAMrioN,  on  Connecticut  river,  is  a  flourishing,  pretty 
town,  100  miles  W.  N.  W-  from  Boston,  containir.g  a  bank,  and 
2631  inhabitants.     An  extensive  tannery  has  been  ehtablished  here. 

Springfield,  farther  down  on  the  same  river,  is  well  built,  and 
contains  a  national  armory.     Population  2767. 

Roads.  The  roads  in  Massachusetts  are,  generally,  well  made. 
The  coiintry,  in  all  directions,  is  intersected  by  turnpikes,  which 
centre  in  tlic  capital.  That  fiom  Boston  to  Nowburyport,  33niiiesj 
t;ost  £400.000  ;  and  that  from  Boston  to  Salem,  13  miles,  cost 
more  than  S200,000.  The  road  from  Providence  to  Boston,  42 
i^iih'S.  is  of  the  same  expensive  kind.  The  western  turnpike, 
from  Boston  through  Rutland,  Northampton,  to  Pittsfield,  runs  the 
whole  length  of  the  state.  Another  passes  from  Boston  through 
Worcesicr  ;  and  another  through  Dedham  and  Mcndon,  to  Hart- 
ford. Another  through  Andover,  Londonderry,  and  Concord,  to 
Dartmouth  college  ;  and  another  through  Concord,  Groton,  &c. 
to  Kcene,  and  to  Middlcbury,  in  Vermont. 

Cariais.  At  Miller's  falls,  m  Montague,  the  Connecticut  descends 
in  a  short  course  66  feet.  The  principal  fall  is  at  the  head  of  the 
canal.  Here  a  dam  has  been  built,  1000  feet  long,  and  28  feet 
hiii-h,  from  the  top  to  the  surface  of  the  water  below.  The  canal 
s^cut  acro'oS  a  level  piece  of  land,  and  is  almost  three  miles  long, 
'JO  feet  wide,  and  2^  deep.  There  arc  14  locks,  each  75  feet  long, 
j 20  wide,  and  drawing  three  feet  water.  The  canal  enters  the 
river  again  a  feu*  reds  below  the  mouth  of  Deerfield  river.  Four 
miles  above  this  dam,  and  250  rods  below  the  nioutli  of  Miller's 
river,  is  the  upper  dam  It  reaches  across  the  Connecticut,  is  550 
:ect  lon<''  and  8  feet  i:igh  ;  and  is  built  like  the  other,  of  solid  tim- 
!;cr.  Buais  avoid  this  dam  by  a  sliort  canal  on  the  east  side,  con- 
sisting of  a  single  lock,  100  leet  lont.':  and  20  wide. 

There  are  two  canals  at  South-Hadiey  The  descent  at  the  up- 
ocr  falls  is  55  feet.  At  the  head  of  the  falls,  a  dam  of  solid  timber 
is  built  obliquely  up  the  river,  for  lOo  rods,  wlience  it  strikes  a- 
croBs  ih-e  river,  60  rods.  The  oblique  dam  is  14  feet  high,  but  the 
height  of  the  direct  dom  is  less.  The  canal  is  2  miles  long.  The 
^vidth,  in  the  narrowest  place,  is  25  feet,  and  generally  much 
■wider  ;  its  depth  is  2^  feet.*  A  mile  below  the  mouth  of  this  ca- 
r»al  are  the  Willimsnset  fails,  the  whole  descent  of  which  is  16  feet. 
A  canal  of  one  mile  in  length,  leads  round  thcni,  which  has  two 

*  This  canal  has  undergone  some  changes,  with  the  particulars  of  which,  the 
?uih<')r  has  not  been  nude  acquainted. 


MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER.  143 

ItDcks.  By  these  various  canals,*  an  immensely  important  inland 
navigation  is  opened  the  whole  breadth  of  the  state,  through  the 
rich  and  productive  county  of  Hampshire. 

Middlesex  canal  connects  the  Merrimac  with  Boston  harboro 
The  whole  distance  is  30  miles  ;  viz.  6  miles  from  the  Merrimac 
to  Concord  river,  and  25  thence  to  Boston  harbor.  Concord  river 
is  a  sluggish  stream,  and  has  a  fall  in  it,  in  the  town  of  Billerica, 
4  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  canal  commences  in  the  Merrimac, 
a  little  above  Patucket  falls  ;  and,  in  a  soutlieast  course  of  3| 
miles^  ascends,  by  3  locks,  2  1  feet,  to  tlie  level  of  Concord  river 
above  its  fall,  It  crosses  Concord  river  on  its  su;  face  ;  and,  in  a 
southeast  course  of  25  miles,  descend  107  feet,  by  13  locks,  to  the 
tide  water  of  Boston  harbor.  The  locks  are  all  90  feet  by  12,  of 
solid  masonry,  and  excellent  vvorkmanslup.  The  width  of  the  ca- 
nal is  24  feet,  and  it  draws  4  feet  water.  Buth  parts  of  the  canal 
are  fed  by  Concord  river.  The  whole  expense  of  tlie  work  was 
above  S600,000.  The  tolls  have  not  exceeded  S  i7,0(J0  per  annum. 
The  vast  quantities  of  timber  around  Winiiipiseogee  lake,  on  Mer- 
rimac river  and  its  branches,  and  M  issabc  sic  pond,  and  tlve  pro- 
duce of  a  great  extent  of  very  fertile  country,  will,  in  the  end,  be 
transported  on  this  canal  to  Boston.  It  need  not  be  added,  that 
this  is  the  greatest  v/ork  of  the  kind  yet  completed  in  the  United 
States. 

The  Essex  canal  goes  round  Patucket  falls  in  the  Merrimac. 
These,  as  the  river  runs,  are  40  miles  from  the  sea.  The  whole 
descent  is  34  feet.  The  canal  has  3  locks,  and  is  4  miles  long.  It 
receives  boats  drawing  3i  feet  water.  From  the  mouth  of  the  ca- 
nal to  the  head  of  the  tide  at  Haverhill,  the  whole  descent  in  the 
river  is  45  feet,  yet  it  is  navigable  the  whole  distance. 

Manufactures.  The  chief  articles  of  manufacture  are  thus  ar= 
ranged  :  cottons,  articles  of  leather,  ardent  spirits,  tanned  leather, 
cordage,  wrought  and  cast  iron,  nails,  woollens,  ships,  straw  bon- 
nets, hats,  cabinet  work,  flour,  slit  iron,  paper,  oil,  soap,  muskets^ 
brass  and  copper,  jewelry,  bricks,  carriages,  duck,  &c.  The  a- 
raountin  18  10,  was  SI 8,595, 328. t 

Commerce.  The  exports  from  Massachusetts  in  1 804,  amounted 
to  §16,894,379,  and  in  1810,  according  to  the  secretary's  report, 
to  813,013,048,  of  which  §7,251,277  were  foreign  produce,  and 
§5,761,771  domestic.  It  appears  by  that  document,  to  be  the  first 
state  in  the  amount  of  its  foreign  exports,  and  also  of  its  domestic. 
This  state  owns  also  more  than  3  times  as  many  tons  of  slupping  as 
any  of  the  other  states,  and  more  than  a  third  part  of  the  whole 
that  belongs  to  the  United  States.  Her  ships  visit  every  part  of 
the  world.  The  cEuef  exports  are  fish,  beef,  lumber,  pork,  ardent 
spirits,  furniture,  flaxseed,  beeswax,  whale  oil,  spern^aceti,  whale- 
bone,  and  the  more  important  manufactures  above  enumerated. 
The  three  first  are  the  staples  of  the  state. 

*  The  «tock  of  the  two  companies  concerned  in  these  canals  i'*  divided  into 
1008  shares,  one  half  of  which  belongs  to  gentlemen  in  Holland.  The  amount 
ospended,  about  200,000  dollars. 

■*•  Taken  from  the  marshal's  official  retnrBk 

10 


U6  MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER. 

Climate.  About  I  in  7  of  the  inhabitants  live  to  the  ai^e  of  70; 
and  1  in  13  or  14,  to  80  and  upwards.  No  regular  disease  is 
known  to  prevail  in  any  part  of  New  England.  The  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold,  according  to  Fahrenheit,  are  from  20°  below  to  100* 
above  0.      rhc  medium  from  48°  to  50°. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  western  part  of  the  county  of  Hamp- 
shire and  most  ol  the  county  of  Berkshire  are  mountainous  In 
this  latter  county,  howevei-,  is  the  narrow  fertile  valley  of  the  Hou- 
satonnuc.  The  valley  of  the  Connecticut  is  from  2  to  20  miles 
■wide,  and  embraces  a  most  rich  and  dtiii^hlful  country.  In  the 
three  towns  of  Hadley,  Northampton,  and  Hatfield,  alone,  the  quan- 
tity of  intrrval  land  exceeds  10,000  acres,  ail  visible  from  a  single 
spot.  East  of  the  river  a  range  of  mountains  crosses  the  state 
fiom  N.  to  S  on  the  eastern  border  of  Hampsliire  and  the  westenv 
of  Worcester.  Beyond  this  the  country  is  for  some  distance  hilly, 
then  uneven,  and  near  the  shore  level.  The  southtastern  part  of 
the  state,  including  Plymouth,  Bristol,  and  Barnstable  counties,  is 
chiefly  a  plain. 

Soil  and  Agrkulture.  The  three  last  mentioned  counties  have 
principally  a  light  sandy  soil,  with  some  excellent  tracts  iriter- 
spersed  in  the  two  first.  Barnstable  is  generally  sandy.  The 
vest  of  the  state  has  mostly  a  strong  good  soil,  well  adapted  to  graz- 
ing and  grain.  The  average  produce  of  the  good  lands  is  esti- 
mated as  follows  :  30  bushels  of  corn  to  the  acre,  30  of  barley,  20 
of  wheat,  15  of  rye,  and  200  of  potatoes. 

The  agriculture  of  Massachusetts  surpasses  that  of  any  of  the 
states,  except  Connecticut  and  Pennsylvania.  The  crops  on  the 
intervals  of  the  Connecticut  arc  the  largest  in  the  state.  They 
yield,  when  well  cultivated,  from  60  to  80  bushels  of  corn,  from 
25  to  35  of  wheat,  tlie  same  quantity  of  rye,  and  from  2  to  4  tons  of 
hay  to  the  acre.  Similar  lands  on  the  Housatonnuc  are  also  equally 
productive.  Apples  are  the  abundant  fruit  hi  Massachusetts. 
Excellent  pears  abound,  and  peaches  to  a  limited  extent,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Boston. 

The  ox  is  the  animal  most  used  in  agriculture,  and  next  to  that 
the  horse.     The  ass  and  muie  aie  not  common. 

Bivir.s.  The  Connecticut  divides  the  county  of  Hampshire, 
Tlf  Housatonnuc  runs  tiivough  most  of  Berkshire. 

Taunton  river  pursues  a  S.  W.  course  of  50  miles  to  the  N.  E. 
corner  of  Narragansctt  bav.  It  is  navigable,  for  small  vessels, 
nearly  half  that  clistaiice  lo  Taunton  ;  where  it  receives,  from  the 
N.  N.  W.  Wading  River,  its  chief  ributary. 

Charles  river  pursues  a  very  circuitous  rout,  but  on  the  whole 
in  a  N.  E.  direction  tu  Boston  harl)or,  which  it  enters,  after  passing 
Charlestown.  Its  length  is  about  40  miles,  and  it  is  navigai)le  to 
Watenown,  7  miles  The  other  rivers  are  the  Neponsct,  Ipswich, 
Nashua,  Concord,  Miller's,  Chicapee,  W<  sifiela,  and  Deerfield. 

Bays.     Besides  Massachusetts  Bay,  already  described,  are  Barn- 
stable bay  at  the  S.  E  extrenity  of  Massac  Isusetts  bay.  setting  up 
between  Monumct  point  and  R  ice  point,  where  it  is  18  miles  wide 
It  is  25  miles  deep,  and  its  gi'eatest  width  is  about  32  miles. 


MASSACHUSETTS  PROPER.  14y 

Buzzard's  bay,  on  the  other  side  of  cape  Cod,  sets  rip  between 
Seaconnet  poiui,  in  Rliode-Ihland  on  the  W.  and  tlie  Sow  and  Pigs, 
as  they  are  caiicd,  on  the  E.  From  the  head  of  the  bay  to  Seacon- 
net point,  is  about  40  miles.     Its  width  will  average  about  7. 

Boston  bay  sets  up  between  point  Alderton  and  Naiiant  points, 
sbout  8  nriilcs.  Its  greatest  length,  from  Charlestown  to  Hull,  is 
15  :;:ilc3.  Boston  and  Charlestown  harbors  are  the  western  part 
oi  Boston  bay. 

Piynjouth  bay  opens  between  Monumet  and  Gurnet  points  ;  and 
is  about  9  niiics  long,  ami  6  deep. 

Cafics.  Thf"  most  noted  capes  are  cape  Cod,  cape  Ann,  cape 
Malabar,  cape  Poge   Gayhead,  and  Sandy  point. 

Mouniains.  Tno  Taghconriuc  range  traverses  the  western  tier 
of  towns  in  the  county  of  Berkshire,  dividuig  the  waters  of  the 
Hucison  and  those  of  the  Housatonnuc. 

The  Green  Mountain  range  runs  east  of  the  Housatonnuc,  and 
pursues  a  course  generally  W.  of  N. 

The  Mount  Tom  range  runs  N.  N.  E.  to  the  southern  line  of 
Northampton,  where  Connecticut  river  passes  between  Mount 
Tom  and  Mount  Holyoke.  The  view  from  the  top  of  the  latter  is 
probably  unrivalled  in  beauty. 

The  White  mountain  range  runs  through  the  county  of  Hamp= 
shire,  traversing  tlie  middle  tier  of  towns  east  of  lliC  river.  Farth- 
er east,  in  the  middle  of  Worcester  county,  is  a  range  ot  hiiis  of 
no  great  elevation,  apparently  a  subordinate  chain  of  the  White 
Mountain  range.  W^achuscti,  an  eastern  spur  from  tliis  range, 
in  Princeton,  is  1657  feet  above  the  level  of  that  town,  and  2982 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

MineraLogy.  Iron  ore  is  abundant,  particularly  in  the  5  south= 
eastern  counties,  and  at  Leyden,  in  Franklin  county.  Copper  ore 
is  found  at  Leverett,  in  the  couiUy  of  Haiupshire,  and  at  Aitlebor- 
ough,  in  Bristol.  Several  mines  uf  biack  lead  iiave  been  dir-cover- 
ed  at  Brimfieid,  in  Hampsnire  ;  and  white  pipe  clay,  and  yellow 
and  red  ochre,  in  Martha's  Vineyard.  Quarries  of  marble  have 
been  opened  at  Stockbridge,  Sheffield,  Lanesborough,  and  several 
other  places  in  Berkshire,  and  a  vast  extent  of  country  is  supplied 
by  them.  Rich  pyrites  is  abundant  at  Brookfield  in  the  county  of 
Worcester. 

Mineral  Waters.  There  are  no  mineral  waters  of  much  celeb- 
rity in  this  state. 

Inlands.  Nantucket  island  is  15  miles  in  length,  and  1 1  in 
breadth,  about  70°  W.  Ion.  from  London,  and  41  20  N.  lat.  8 
leagues  southward  of  Cape  Cod.  The  climate  of  this  island  is 
mild,  compared  with  that  of  the  adjacent  continent.  The  soil  is 
light  and  sandy,  except  some  part  where  the  town  stands,  and  some 
tracts  at  the  eabt  end  of  the  island,  which  are  of  a  loamy,  rich  soil. 
It  is  well  watered  with  ponds  and  springs.  A  long  sandy  point 
projects  from  the  east  end  of  the  island,  to  the  northward  and  west- 
ward, on  which  stands  the  light-house,  erected  in  1734.*    Between 

*  The  practu-abiiity  and  expediency  of  forming  an  artificial  island  on  Naniuck' 
tt  Sbsals,  on  which  to  erect  some  landmark  for  seamen,  have  been  suggested.  A 


148  RHODE  ISLAND. 

this  point  and  the  northern  shore  of  the  island  is  a  bay,  which  af- 
fords a  fine  road  for  ships,  except  with  the  wind  at  N.  W.  when 
there  is  a  heavy  SAvell.  The  harbor  is  a  bason  within  this  bay, 
obsu  uctcd  by  a  sand  bar,  on  which  are  7^  feet  water  at  low  tide  ; 
within  the  bar  are  12  or  14  feet  ot  water. 

In  1790  there  were  4619,  in  1800,  5617,  and  in  1810,  6807  in- 
iiabitants  on  this  island.  The  seamen  are  said  to  be  the  most  ex- 
pert whalemen  in  the  world. 

The  island  of  itself  constitutes  one  county,  which  bears  the 
nnmcofthe  island.  Slurburnc,\ht  only  town,  contains  the  bulk 
of  the  inhabitants. 

Here  are  two  banks,  each  with  a  capital  of  &  100,000. 

The  inhabitants  are  principally  Friends  or  Quakers  ;  there  are 
two  societies  of  Cpngregationalists.  Fifty  years  ago  there  were 
three  congregations  of  Indians,  each  of  which  bad  a  house  for  pub- 
lic worship,  and  a  teacher.  Their  last  Indian  pastor  died  about 
the  year  1775,  and  was  a  worthy,  respectable  character. 

Martha's  Vinkyard,  which  lies  a  little  to  the  westward  of 
Nantucket,  lat.  41°  2:/,  is  about  21  miles  in  length,  including" 
Chabaquiddic,  and  six  in  breadth.  It  contains  four  societies  of 
Congregationalists,  at  Edgarton,  Tisbury  Chilmark,  and  Gayhead; 
•2  of  Baptists.  Martha's  Vineyard,  Chabaquiddic,  Noman's  island, 
and  the  Elizabeth  islands,  which  contain  about  16,500  acres  of 
"valuable  land,  constitute  Duke's  county,  containing  3290  inhabit- 
ants, of  which,  (July  1801)  320  were  Indians  and  mulattoes,  sub- 
sisting by  agriculture  and  fishing.  The  Indians  have  decreased 
nearly  one  quarter  in  5  or  6  years.  The  inhabitants  of  this  county 
send  three  representatives,  and,  in  conjunction  with  Nantucketj 
one  senator,  to  the  General  Court. 

Elizabeth  Isi.ANi>s  lie  in  a  row  of  about  18  miles  in  length, 
on  the  S.  E.  side  of  Buzzard's  Bay.  They  are  about  16  in  num- 
ber ;  the  chief  of  which  are  Nashawn,  Pasqui,  Nashawcnna,  Pine- 
quese  and  Cattahunk.  Nashawn  is  famous  for  its  excellent  wool 
and  cheese,  and  was  the  property  of  the  late  Hon.  James  Bow- 
doin,  Esq.     They  are  all  in  Duke's  county. 

Castle  island  is  about  three  miles  from.  Boston,  and  contains  a- 
bout  IB  acres  of  land.  This  island  has  been  ceded  by  Massachu- 
setts to  the  government  of  the  United  States,  and  named  Fort 
Independence.  Very  expensive  fortifications  have  been  erected 
by  direction  of  the  general  government  to  defend  tlj^e  harbor  a.- 
sifainst  maritime  enemics» 


RHODE  ISLAND. 

Extent.  THIS  state  is  situated  between  41  17  and  42°  N.  lat. 
and  between  71  6  and  71  52  W.  Ion.  Its  north  line  is  29  miles 
Jong,  and  its  west,  49.     Its  greatest  width  is  37  miles.     Contents 

^ote  in  Massachusetts  Register,  for  1802  p.  180,  on  this  subject  is  worthy  the 
;ittcntion  of  the  wealthy  and  humane. 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


149 


of  the  whole  slate  1580  square  miles;  of  which  about  190  are 
water,  and  about  90  are  included  in  the  islands. 

Boundary  s.  N.  and  E.  by  Massachusetts  ;  S.  by  the  Atlantic  ; 
and  W.  by  Connecticut. 

JDivmo7is.  It  is  divided  into  5  counties  and  SI  townships.  The 
following  is  a  list  of  the  counties  with  their  inhabitants  in  1810 


Counties.  No.  of  tow 

ns. 

Population. 

Chief  towns. 

179Q 

1800 

1816 

Providence     10 

24,391 

25,854 

30,769 

Providence 

Newport           7 

14,300 

14,845 

16,294 

Newport 

Washington     7 

18,075 

16,135 

14,962 

S.  Kingston 

Kent                 4 

8,848 

8,487 

9,834 

Warwick 

Bristol              3 

3,211 

3,801 

5,072 

Bristol 

Total    31        68,825  69,122         76,931 

It  sends  two  representatives  to  Congress. 

Original  Population.  The  Narragansett  tribe  of  Indians  occu- 
pied Rhode  Island,  when  the  country  was  settled,  in  1 620  the 
number  of  their  fighting  men  was  estimated  at  3000  or  4000  ;  and, 
in  1670,  in  the  time  pf  Philip,  at  2000. 

Historij.  The  first  settlement  in  this  state  was  made  by  Rogef 
Williams,anda  party  of  malecontents,  from  Massachusetts, in  1635. 
In  1638,  a  deed  was  procured  from  the  Indians  of  Aquidnic,  or 
Rhode  Island,  and  18  men  there  formed  themselves  into  a  body 
politic,  and  pitched  upon  Mr.  Coddington,  their  leader,  for  their 
chief  magistrate.  In  1643,  a  charter  was  obtained  for  the  whole 
colony,  by  Sir  Henry  Vane.  The  charter,  which  is  the  present 
constitution  of  the  state,  was  obtained  of  Charles  II.  in  1663.  The 
state  had  little  to  do  with  the  early  Indian  wars  ;  but  in  1746  the 
inhabitants  raised  300  soldiers,  and  equipped  a  iiloop  of  war  witl* 
100  seamen,  towards  the  intended  expedition  against  Canada.  Tht; 
expedition  was  unfortunate.  In  the  revolutionary  war  they  were 
honorably  active.  In  December,  1776,  Rhode  Island  was  occu 
pied  by  British  troops.  In  August,  1778,  an  unsuccessful  attempt 
■was  made  by  Gen.  Sullivan  to  dislodge  them.  In  May,  1789. 
Hhode  Island  adopted  the  federal  constitution. 

Religion.  The  Baptists  arc  the  most  numerous  denomination. 
The  tenets  of  most  of  them  are  Calvinistic  ;  some  are  Arminian., 
and  a  few  are  Seventh-day  Baptists.  A  still  smaller  number  are 
called  Separate  Baptists,  claiming  peculiar  sanctity.  The  othei 
denominations  are  Congregationalists,  who  have  8  ministers  ;  Epis 
copalians,  who  have  4  ministers,  one  of  whom  is  the  bishop  of  the 
eastern  diocese  ;  Moravians  and  Jews.  In  this  state  religion  is 
not  supported  by  law.  The  number  of  the  clergy  is  small ;  and 
the  state  of  religion  and  morals,  in  a  great  part  of  the  state,  is  la- 
mentably low. 

Government.  The  charter  of  1663  is  the  constitution  of  the 
state.  The  legislature  is  composed  of  a  council  of  12,  including 
the  governor  and  deputy  governor,  all  chosen  annually,  and  a  house; 
of  representatives,  consisting  of  deputies  from  the  several  townsj, 
chosen  twice  a  year.     There  is  one  supreme  court,  which  sit:i 


i5U  RHODE  ISLAND. 

twice  a  year  m  each  county,  and  an  inferior  court  of  common  pleas 
and  general  sessions  ol'thc  peace  for  each  county,  sitting  also  twice 
a  year. 

Population.     The  number  of  inhabitants  was  in  the  year 

17--  ■»    o  ^n.,  K>„.K.  c    --,---     1790^        948  slaves  ^68,825 

1748-^     :':4o  Z^ZIA  34,128 

I     03,tOO     VV11I1.C3  J 

69,122 


I 

1774 


5  13,352  whites^  f  64,470  whites  ") 

J    2,633  blacks  5       '^^     1790^        948  slaves  l68,« 

5  29,755  whites)  <,.  ,93  ^    3.4i  7  ftee  blacks  J 

^l    4,373  blacks  5 '^*''*  f  65,438  whites  1 

„-,  535,939  whites^  I800«j        380  slaves  l( 

^^'  I    4,697  blacks  ^  *^'^^^  (_    3,304  free  blacks  J 

54,435  whites  5  f  73,2 14  whites  S 

5,243  blacks^  ^'  i810-j         l(-8  slaves  176,931 

,_-„  ,48,538  whites?  (^    3,609  free  blacksj 

^^^^\    3,361  blacksS  ^''^■'•^ 

The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  of  English  descent. 

There  are  from  300  to  500  Indians  in  the  state,  the  greater  part 
of  whom  reside  at  Charlestown.  They  speak  the  English  language, 
and  are  decreasing  in  numbers. 

Militia.  The  militia  of  this  slate  amount  to  between  7  and  8000 
men,  organized  and  disciplined  in  a  manner  similar  to  the  rest  of 
the  New-England  militia. 

Manners.  The  mass  of  the  people  on  the  west  of  the  bay,  have 
generally  been  ignorant,  irreligious,  and  loose  in  their  morals. 
The  tone  of  religious  sentiment,  and  of  morals,  in  Providence, 
Newport,  Bristol,  and  other  towns  adjoining  on  the  east  of  the  bay, 
has  been  greatly  raised  by  the  imigrants  from  Massachusetts  and 
Connecticut,  and  the  establishment  of  regular  institutions.  In 
the  Avhole  region  west  of  the  bay,  the  traveliei  sees  fev/  of  the  im- 
provements in  science,  agrirukurc,  roads,  manufactures,  or  mode 
of  living,  which  he  finds  in  the  neighboring  states  ;  and  meets  with 
little  of  that  civility,  for  which  the  rest  of  New-England  is  re- 
markable. The  missionary  labors  in  this  region,  have  been  fol- 
lowed with  good  effects. 

Literature.  Brown  university,  at  Providence,  was  founded  in 
1764,  at  Warren  ;  and  avus  removed  to  Providence  in  1770.  It 
received  its  present  name  in  1 804,  from  Nicholas  Brown,  Esq. 
who  gave  the  iusliiution  5000  dollars.  The  collegiate  legislature 
is  composed  of  two  branches,  aboard  of  fellows,  12  in  number, 
including  the  president,  who,  with  7  oi  the  others,  must  be  Baptists  ; 
and  a  board  of  trustees,  in  number  35,  of  wiiom  22  are  Baptists,  5 
Friends,  5  Episcopalians,  and  4  Congregationalists.  The  fellows 
alone  confer  degrees.  A  majority  of  both  branches  must  coi>cur, 
in  every  other  legislative  act,  to  make  it  valid.  This  university, 
as  it  is  denominated,  has  the  following  professorships,  viz.  of  law  ; 
of  metaphysics  and  moral  philosophy  ;  of  the  oriental  languages  ; 
of  anatomy  and  surgery  ;  of  materia  medica  and  botany;  and  of 
chemistry.  The  president  is  at  present,  professor  of  mathematics 
and  natural  philosophy.  The  professors  and  tutors  may  be  of  any 
denomination.  The  library  contains  about  30(jO  volumes.  The 
philosophical  apparatus  is  valuable.  The  number  of  students  is 
132.    The  college  building  is  159  feet  by  46,  and  4  stories  high. 


RHODE  ISLAND.  15i 

It  contains  48  rooms,  and  is  pleasanilv  situated  on  a  commanding 
eminence.  Academics  are  established  at  Providence,  Newport, 
Bristol,  Warren,  East-Greenwich,  and  Soutii- Kingston;  the  pre- 
ceptors ot  which  depend  mostly  on  theii  pupils  for  support. 

A  l'.iw  was  passed  some  years  since,  cstabiishini^  town  schools 
throuLjh  the  state,  after  the  manner  of  their  neighbors  on  each  side 
of  them;  but  it  was  found  unpopulaiv  and  repealed!  Schools, 
however,  are  now  kept  during  the  winter  months,  in  most  of  the 
towns  in  the  slate,  though  the  laws  make  no  provision  for  them. 
The  teachers,  therefore,  in  the  country  towns,  are  but  scantily  re- 
warded.    The  state  of  society,  on  the  whole,  is  improving. 

Chief  To'iuns.  Providence  is  the  third  town  in  New-England, 
In  point  of  population.  It  stands  in  lat.  41  5  1  N.  at  the  head  of 
Narraganset  buy,  on  both  sidts  of  it.  A  sJiort  bridge,  over  a  nar- 
row part  of  the  Jjay,  connects  both  parts  of  the  town.  On  the  east 
side  of  the  bay,  there  is  a  siiiglc  street,  neariy  on  a  level  with  the 
water,  and  parallel  with  it,  which  is  the  seat  of  most  of  the  business. 
The  land  back  of  this  street  rises  instantly  at  an  angle  of  12  or  15 
degrees,  and  the  other  streets  have  a  fine,  but  incommodious  ele- 
vation. The  houses  west  of  the  bay,  are  chiefly  new,  and  well 
built ;  the  most  of  the  elegant  and  splendid  houses  are  on  the  other 
side.  There  are  3  cluirches  west  of  the  bay  ;  2  Congregational, 
and  1  Baptist ;  and  4  on  the  other  side  ;  \  Congregational,  I  Bap- 
tist, 1  Friends,  and  1  Episcopalian,  These  three  last  are  among" 
the  handsomest  edifices,  of  the  kind  in  the  union.  The  town  lib- 
rary is  deposited  in  the  court  house,  'J"!ie  population,  in  1790, 
was  6380  ;  in  1800,  7514;  and  in  1810,  10,071,  The  commerce 
of  the  town  is  extensive  ;  and  the  inhabitants  are  industrious  and 
enterprising. 

Newport  is  built  on  a  very  fine  bay  in  the  southvvfest  part  of  the 
island  of  Rhode  Island.  It  lies  in  lat,  41  29  N.  T)ie  town  lies 
N.  and  S.  upon  a  gradual  acclivity  from  the  water,  furnishing  a 
beautiful  view  from  the  harbor  and  the  neighboring  hills  on  ti^e 
main.  The  houses  arc  chieOy  of  wood,  and  about  1000  in  number. 
The  population,  in  1790,  was  6716;  in  1800,  6739;  and  in  1810, 
7907,  The  public  buildings  are  4  Baptist  churches,  2  Congres'a- 
tionalist,  1  Episcopalian,  I  Friends,  1  Moravian,  and  1  Jewish  svr- 
agogue  ;  a  state  house,  and  an  edifice  for  a  public  library.  The. 
packets  between  Newport  and  New-York  are  said  to  surpass  anv 
thing  of  the  kind  in  Europe. 

Bristol  is  a  thriving  town,  on  the  east  side  of  the  bay,  15  miles 
N.  of  Newport.  It  has  a  Congregational  and  an  Episcopalian 
church,  and  2693  inhabitants  ;  and  carries  on  a  considerable  com- 
merce. 

Roads.  A  turnpike  passes  from  Providence  \V.  S.  W,  through 
Scitudte  and  Coventry,  meetin.;.':  a  similar  road  in  Li.sbon  in  Con- 
necticut, v.'hich  leads  through  Wir.dham  to  Hartford,  Its  length 
in  this  state  is  about  25  miles.  Another  strikes  tlie  Connecticut 
line  south  of  this,  and  passes  through  Norwich,  New-London,  to 
New-Haven  and  .\cvv-Yurk.  This  is  tVtc  great  sonthern  road 
from  Botton  to  N^ew-York.     A  turnpike  leads  from  Providence, 


\32  RHODE  ISLAND. 

4  miles  north  to  the  river,  meeting  there  the  turnpike  to  Boston^ 
Most  of  the  roads  are  verjrmuch  neglecte-d. 

Manufactures.  In  1 809,  1 7  cotton  mills  were  in  operation  with' 
in  the  town  of  Providence  and  its  vicinity,  working^  i 4,296  spindles, 
and  using  840,000  pounds  of  cotton,  which  yielded  5  10,000  pounds 
of  yarn.  About  1100  looms  were  employed  in  weavin,^.  At  that 
time  7  additional  mills  were  erecting  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town. 
One  was  in  opei'ation  in  East  Greenwich  with  500  spindles.  The 
cloths  manufactured  were  bed-licking,  swipes  and  checks,  ging- 
hams, shirting  and  counterpanes.  They  are  superior  to  imported 
goods  of  the  same  kind.  There  was  tlien  a  woollen  manufactory 
in  Warwick  and  another  at  Portsmouth.  About  50,000  hats  wore 
then  made  annually,  worth  %5  each,  exclusive  of  felt  hats.  A  num- 
ber of  pnper  mills  are  established.  Linen  and  tow-cloth  are  made 
extensively,  as  well  as  rum,  cards,  chocolate,  and  the  coarser  man- 
ufactures of  iron. 

Bariks.  There  are  no  less  than  thirteen  banks  in  this  small 
state,  containin^^  together  a  capital  of  ;S1?845,0(>0. 

Trade.  The  chief  exports  fiora  Rhode  Island  are  flax  seed, 
lumber,  horses,  cattle,  beef,  pork,  fish,  poultry,  onions,  butter, 
cheese,  barley,  grahi,  spirits,  and  cotton  and  linen  goods.  Up- 
wards of  600  vessels  enter  and  clear  annually  at  tlie  several  ports. 
In  1804  the  amount  of  exports  was  Sl5735,671,  and  in  1810, 
Sli331,576.  The  inhabitants,  particularly  those  of  Newport,  and 
Bristol,  were  a  little  while  since  largely  concerned  in  the  slave 
trade.  This  was  done  in  defiance  of  the  laws  of  the  state  ;  and 
there  is  strong  reason  to  believe  that  the  severe  penalties  of  the 
national  law  have  not  terminated  this  inhuman  traffic. 

Climate.  The  climate  is  more  damp  than  that  of  Connecticut  ; 
as  the  moist  winds  of  tlie  ocean  that  visit  the  latter,  lose  part  of 
their  dampness  in  passing  Long  Island.  The  winters  are  here  a 
little  milder,  but  the  N.  E.  winds  are  more  unpleasant,  though  less 
so  than  on  the  eastern  coast.     The  summers  are  delightful. 

Face  of  the.  Countrxj.  The  N.  W.  part  of  the  slate  is  hilly  and 
rocky,  and  the  hills  continue,  though  with  a  small  elevation, 
through  the  northern  third  of  the  state.  The  rest  of  the  country  is 
chiefly  level. 

!SoiL  and  Agriculture.  A  large  proportion  of  the  land  is  lean 
und  barren.  It  is  generally  much  better  tilted  for  pasture,  than 
for  grain.  It  produces,  however,  maize,  rye,  barley,  oats,  and  in 
some  places  wheat  enough  for  home  consumption  Cider  of  an 
t'xccilent  quality  is  made  for  exportation;  chiefly  in  Cranston, 
Johnston,  and  Smithfield.  'I  he  five  western  towns  in  the  county 
of  Washington,  called  the  Shannock  purchase,  are  an  excellent 
grazing  country,  and  are  inhabited  by  a  number  of  large  and 
wealthy  farmers.  They  export  great  quantities  of  butter  and 
cheese  of  the  very  best  quality,  and  their  neat  cattle  weigh  from 
(6  to  18  cvrt.  The  northwest  parts  of  the  state  are  thinly  inhabit- 
ed, and  are  the  most  rocky  and  barren. 

Rivers.  The  principal  rivers  in  tliis  state  arc  the  Pautucket^ 
•;vhich  empties  into  Providrnrc  bay,  1  To f^ driver.,  the  Paucatuc,dLnil 


CONNECTICUT.  15S 

Pautuxet,  which  may  be  seen  in  their  origin  and  courses,  on  the 
map. 

Bays.  Narragansett  bay  has  been  described.  Mount  Haup 
bay  is  the  N.  E.  extremity  of  it,  and  is  about  5  miles  long  and  3 
wide.  Providence  bay  sets  up  15  miles  N.  N.  W.  from  Narra- 
gansett bay,  and  is  from  1  to  3  miles  wide.  Greenwich  bay  is  the 
N.  W.  end  of  Narragansett  bay. 

Mountain.  Mount  Haup,  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay  of  that 
name,  was  once  the  capital  of  the  Wampanoags,  and  the  residence 
of  Piiilip.     It  is  an  inconsiderable  eminence. 

Mineralogii.  Iron  is  found  in  great  plenty  in  several  places. 
There  is  a  mine  in  a  valley  near  Pautuxet  river,  about  12  miles 
from  Providence.  In  Cu.nberland,  is  a  mine  of  copper  mixed 
with  iron  ore,  strongly  magnetic.  Limestone  is  found  in  great  a- 
bundance  in  Providence  county,  of  which  lartje  quantities  of  lime 
are  made,  and  exported  to  the  other  stun  s.  A  valuable  coal  mine 
has  lately  been  found  on  the  north  end  of  Rhode  Island. 

Jtilands.  Rliodf  Island,  ttoni  which  the  state  takes  its  name,  is 
15  miles  long,  and  on  an  averaii;c  3|.  'iroad,  containing  about  52 
square  miles.  It  includes  3  townslups.  Its  soil,  climate,  and  sit- 
uation, are  delightful.  It  suffcri  d  much  during  the  war.  Be- 
tween 30,000  and  40,000  slieep  are  fed  on  the  island,  besides  neat 
cattle  and  horses. 

Block  Island,  or  Manisses;  is  7  miles  south  from  Charlestown 
and  2 1  E.  by  N.from  Montauk.  It  is  7  miles  long  and  4  broad,  con- 
taining: 21)  square  miles.  It  composes  the  town  of  New  Shoreham, 
has  722  inhabitants,  and  is  famous  for  its  cattle  and  sheep,  butter 
and  cneese.  Codfish,  in  considerable  numbers,  are  caught  on  its 
coast. 

Canonnicut  lies  E.  from  Rhode  Island,  and  is  about  10  miles 
long,  containing  10  square  miles.  It  forms  a  township,  called 
Jamestown,  with  504  inhabitants.     The  soil  is  luxuriant. 

Prudence  Isle,  N.  of  Canonnicut,  comprises  about  5  square  mile's. 


CONNECTICUT. 

Extent.  THE  line  between  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts, 
as  settled  in  1713,  was  found  to  be  about  72  miles  in  length.  The 
line  dividing  Connecticut  from  Rhode-Island,  was  settled  in  1728, 
and  found  to  be  about  45  miles.  The  sea  coast,  from  the  mouth 
of  Paukatuc  river,  which  forms  a  part  of  the  eastern  boundary  of 
Connecticut,  in  a  direct  southwesterly  line  to  the  mouth  of  Byram 
river,  is  reckoned  at  about  90  miles.  The  line  between  Connecti- 
cut and  New-York,  runs  from  latitude  41°  to  latitude  42  2,  72 
miles.  Connecticut  contains  about  4674  square  miles  ;  equal  to 
2,991,360  acres.  It  lies  between  lat.  41°  and  42  2  N.  and  between 
Ion.  71  29  and  73  24  W. 

Boundaries.     Bounded   N.   by   Massachusetts  ;     E.   by  Rnode 
Island  ;  S.  bv  Long  Island  sound  ;  W.  bv  New-York. 
20       '  ■" 


i54  CONNECTICUT. 

Divisions.  It  is  divided  into  8  counties,  4  bordei'in^  on  Massa- 
chusetts, and  4  on  the  sound  ;  which  are  subdivided  into  1 19 
townships. 

Population. 

44,733 

37,064 

34.707 

40,950 

28,611 

41,3''5 

20,723 

13,779 


Counties.    No.  of  towns. 

Hartford 

18 

New-Haven 

17 

New-London 

13 

Fairfield 

17 

Windham 

15 

Litchfield 

22 

Middlesex 

7 

Tolland 

10 

Chief  towns. 

No.  of  inh. 

Hartford 

6,003 

New- Haven 

6,967 

New-London 

3238 

Fairfield 

4,125 

Windham 

2,416 

Litchfield 

4.6.>9 

Middktown 

5,382 

Tolland 

1,610 

Total      119      ■       261,942 

History.  A  house  was  erected  by  the  Dutch,  at  Hartford,  in 
1633  ;  and  anotlier  at  Windsor,  by  William  Holmes,  from  the  Ply- 
mouth colony  in  October  of  the  sanio  year. 

A  settlement  was  made  at  Windsor  and  Hartford  by  a  small  col- 
ony, from  Massachusetts  ;  and  another  at  Saybrook,  by  a  company 
from  England,  in  1635.- 

The  first  court  was  held  at  Weathersfield  in  1636.  The  next 
year  a  war  began  with  the  Pequods,  which  terminated  in  the  con- 
quest of  their  country. 

In  1638  New-Haven  \ras  settled  by  a  colony  from  England  under 
Theophilus  Eaton. 

The  next  year  (1639)  the  constitution  of  the  Connecticut  colony 
was  formed  ;  and,  a  few  months  afterwards,  that  uf  the  New-Haven 
colony.  The  charter  of  Connecticut  colony  v»'as  granted  by  Charles 
II.  in  1662,  into  which  the  substance  of  the  two  original  constitu- 
tions was  incorporated  ;  and,  in  1  665,  the  two  colonies  uiuted. 

In  Dec.  1675,  a  body  of  300  English  and  150  Indians,  marcjicd 
from  Connecticut  into  the  country  of  the  Narragansetts,  destrc^'td 
their  principal  fort,  and  subdued  the  tribe. 

An  attempt  was  made  in  1687,  by  Sir  Edmund  Andross,  to  seize 
the  charter  of  the  colony,  but  the  wisdom  and  courage  of  the  legis- 
lature rendered  it  abortive 

The  assembly,  v/hich,  till  1698,  had  sat  in  one  house,  was  then 
divided  into  two. 

In  17('8,  the  Saybrook  platform  was  received  and  adopted  as  the 
ecclesiastical  constitution  of  the  state. 

The  most  important  expedition  against  the  state,  in  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  was  made  from  New-York,  by  gov.  'I'ryon,  in  1779. 
He  burnt  several  towns  and  plundered  others.  No  state  in  the 
union  was  more  active  in  that  war  than  Connecticut,  or  contributed 
move  in  proportion  to  its  size  and  ability,  to  its  successful  termhia- 
tion. 

The  assembly,  at  the  close  of  the  war  continued  the  charter  of 
Charles  II.  as  the  constitution  of  the  state.* 

•  The  history  of  this  state  has  been  written  with  great  fidelity  by  Rev.  Ben- 
jamin  TrumbHll,  D.  D. 


CONNECTICUT.  Hi 

JReligion.     The  following  table  will  exhibit  the  state  of  the  seve- 
ral reiij^ioub  denominations  of  Christains  in  Connecticut,  in  1811; 
the  first  number  in  each  Cjilumn  denoting  the  number  oi  churches. 
the  second  of  the  clergy  of  the  several  denominations. 
Counties.         Congregaiionalists.         Episcopalians.  Baptists- 


Hartford 

35 

32 

8 

4 

13 

5 

iNcw- Haven 

34 

32 

14 

10 

2 

0 

I^Jcw -London 

21 

13 

3 

.2 

15 

12 

Fairfield 

29 

20 

16 

5 

8 

f 

Windham 

28 

20 

.2 

1 

14 

1^ 

Litchfield 

32 

31 

33 

6 

9 

4 

Middlesex 

17 

17 

6 

3 

5 

A 

Tolland 

15 

11 

2 

1 

i 

1 

Total     211         176  64        32  67        44 

There  are  but  12  churches  and  7  ministers  of  all  other  denomi- 
nations in  this  slate. 

The  Episcopal  congregations  average  about  40  families  or  250 
individuals.  The  Baptist  congregations  are  about  equally  large. 
The  number  of  Congregationalists  is  at  least  220,000  j  their  con- 
gregations averaging  upwards  of  1000  individuals,  or  160  families. 

Government.  The  charter  of  Charles  II.  contains  the  constitu- 
tion of  the  state.  The  legislature  is  styled  the  general  assembly, 
and  is  composed  of  a  council  and  house  of  representatives.  The 
council  consists  of  the  governor,  lieutenant  governor,  and  12  assist- 
ants. The  governor  presides,  and  has  a  vote  and  a  casting  vote. 
They  are  all  chosen  annually  in  April  :  the  two  first  directly  from 
the  mass  of  the  people  ;  the  assistants  from  a  nomination  of  20^ 
which  is  filled  up  by  the  people  in  the  preceding  October.  Every 
freeman  is  eligible  to  either  of  those  stations.  The  house  of  rep- 
resentatives, consisting  of  199  members,  is  chosen  twice  a  year  j 
80  towns  sending  two  representatives,  and  39  sending  but  one. 

The  judiciary  is  composed  of  a  supreme  court  of  errors,  consist- 
ing of  9  judges,  meeting  twice  a  year,  at  Hartford  and  New-Haven; 
of  3  superior,  or  circuit  courts,  each  consisting  of  three  of  the  nine 
judg-es,  who  ride  the  three  circuits  alternately,  and  hold  a  court  in 
each  county,  twice  a  year  ;  of  a  county  court  in  each  county,  con- 
sisting of  1  judge  and  4  justices  of  the  quorum,  and  sitting  in  4  of 
the  counties  three  times  a  year,  and  in  the  other  four  twice  ;  of  a 
city  court  in  the  5  cities,  consisting  of  a  mayor,  and  2  aldermen,  and 
sitting  monthly  ;  of  a  probate  court  in  each  of  the  28  probate  dis- 
tricts, consisting  of  one  judge,  and  sitting  whenever  the  judges  di- 
'  rect ;  and  of  justices'  courts,  consistmg  of  a  single  justice  of  the 
peace. 

Population.  In  1671,  Connecticut  contained  2050  men,  or  abouL 
10,250  inhabitants,  and  in  1679,  2507  men,  or  12.535  inhabitants. 
The  number  of  inhabitants  was  in  the  year 


156  CONNECTICUT. 

C  128,218  whitest    ,n,pf..  ("232,374  whites'] 

^*^    "»       3.587  blacks^    '-^''"^^    1790J       2,764  slaves    l237,94e 


5  141,076  whiles?  ,  ..  ^^^  L      2,808  free bl 

^^^^l      4,590  blacks  S  **^'^^^  f  244,721  whites ■) 

,*.,.  09^392  whites)  ,„-„,^  1800-}  95 1  slaves   1251,002 

^^^^l       i;464  blacks  j  '^W5  |      5,330freebli 

,-j,«  5  202,597  whites;    oo«  sm  f  2o5,l  79  whites  1 

^'^"^l      6,273  blacks  5    ^^«'«'"   iglO^  310  slaves   1261,942 

(^      6,453  free  bl.  J 

Militia.  The  militia  of  this  state,  amounting  to  between  25,OOQ 
and  30,000,  are  or,u;anized  in  four  grand  divisions,  each  embracing 
2  brigades,  8  in  the  whole,  which  are  subdivided  into  upvvards  of 
30  regiments,  of  which  8  are  cavalry.  They  have  the  usual  pro- 
portion of  artillery. 

Revenue.     The  revenue  of  1811  was  as  follows  : 
Tax  on  rateable  estate  and  on  polls  -  -  S46,67470 

Interest  on  stock  in  U.  S.  funds  -  -         -  16,437-19 

Dividends  on  bank  stock  -  .  -  9,788-20 

Duty  on  writs.  Sec.  -  -  -  -  6,291-98 


79,192-07 

The  funds  of  the  state,  exclusive  of  the  school  fund,  were  in 
October  181 1,  as  follows  : 

Six  per  cent,  stock  (real  capital)               -  -              127,153'2S 

Six  per  cent,  deferred  stock  (real  capital)  -            1 15,480  65 

Three  per  cent,  stock  (real  capital)             -  -           50,03806 

Bank  stock            .            -            -            -  •         129,200  00 


S42  1,8.71-94 

This  sum,  added  to  the  school  fund,  makes  a  sum  total  of 
1,622,937  77. 

The  state  owes  no  debt  of  any  kind  whatsoever. 

Banks.  There  are  9  banks  in  the  state  which  have  a  capital 
of  82,309,600. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  inhabitants  are,  with  very  few  ex- 
ceptions, of  English  origin.  Most  of  them  are  farmers,  with  farms 
of  from  50  to  500  acres;  who  hold  their  lands  in  fee  simple.  All 
the  male  inhabitants,  arrived  to  manliood,  probably,  without  excep- 
tion, can  read,  write,  and  cast  accounts  ;  great  numbers  of  them 
have  had  a  collegiate,  and  a  much  greater  number,  an  academical 
education.  A  church  is  planted  within  a  little  distance  from  every 
man's  door  ;  and  a  very  great  majority  of  the  inhabitants  attend 
public  worship  twice  every  sabbath.  The  bible  is  possessed  by 
every  family,  and  by  every  individual  in  many  families :  it  is  no 
where  more  read,  or  more  regarded.  The  state  has  always  enjoy- 
<ed  a  pious  antl  enlightened  clergy  ;  a  clergy,  whose  average  at- 
tainments have  not  beeu  inferior  to  those  of  the  clergy  of  any  other 
community  ;  and  who  have  uniformly  maintained  a  decided  and 
happy  influence  over  the  public  seniimont  and  character.  The 
sjood  order  of  the  people  on  pul>lic  occasions  is  singular  ;  particu- 
larly at  city,  town,  and  freemen's  meetings,  and  at  military  reyi<?w&. 


CONNECTICUT.  157 

Most  of  the  inhabitants  pass  through  life  without  ever  seeing  two 
men  engaged  in  fighting.  Every  parish  bcjl  rings  at  9  at  night  to 
call  the  inhabitants  home,  ihroughout  the  year;  and  very  lew  dis- 
obey the  sunnmons  Disorders  in  the  night  season  are  very  un- 
common. Capital  punislmments  are  not  inflicted  oftener  than  once 
in  8  or  10  years  ;  and  mild  laws  are  found  sufficient  to  restrain  the 
commission  of  smaller  oftences.  Only  two  duels  were  ever  fought 
in  the  state  ;  the  first  between  two  West-Indians,  the  second  be-r 
tween  two  citizens  of  New-York,  who  crossed  the  Une. 

Literature.  Yale  College  wab  founded  by  a  number  of  cler- 
gymen, in  1701,  and  had  its  charter  in  1702.  it  was  named  after 
Elihu  Yale,  Esq.  of  London,  governor  of  the  East-inuia  compa- 
ny, who  was  its  principal  early  bunt  factor.  It  was  origmally  fixed 
at  Saybrook  ;  but,  in  1717,  wat>  rtmoveu  to  New-rHaven.  Its  leg- 
islature is  a  corporation,  consistiiig  of  the  president  of  the  college, 
who  is  also  president  of  the  corporation,  the  governor  of  the  state, 
the  lieutenant  governor,  and  six  senior  assistants,  ex  officio.,  and 
ten  fellows,  who  are  all  clergymen  ;  who,  with  the  president  fill 
up  their  own  vacancies.  Other  powers  are  possessed  by  ail  the 
members  of  the  board  in  common.  The  corporation  meet  annu- 
ally. A  committee  of  three  or  four  members,  of  whom  the  presi- 
dent ejc  officio  is  one,  is  appointed  by  them,  every  year,  to  superin- 
tend the  concerns  of  the  institution.  This  committee  meets  four 
times  a  year.  The  immediate  government  and  instruction  of  the 
students  is  committed  to  the  president,  to  a  professor  of  divinity,  of 
mathematics  and  natural  philosophy,  of  chemistry  and  mineralogy, 
and  of  languages  and  ecclesiastical  history,  and  to  6  tutors.  The 
number  of  students  (1812)  is  305.  They  are  divided  into  4  class- 
es. The  senior  class  recites  only  to  the  president,  and,  with  the 
junior,  attends  the  lectures  of  the  professors.  The  thrt  e  lower 
classes  are  all  divided  into  two  divisions,  each  of  which  is  committed 
to  its  own  tutor,  who  has  the  sole  instruction  of  it.  The  library 
contains  about  6000  volumes,  and  has  a  fund  yielding  about  S200. 
The  students  have  libraries  amounting  to  2000  more.  The  phi- 
losophical and  chemical  apparatus  are  very  handsome,  and  are 
complete.  The  chemical  laboratory  is  far  the  best  in  the  union. 
The  college  possesses  a  very  handsome  mineralogical  cabinet, 
containing  about  2500  specimens ;  and,  during  the  present  year, 
two  cabinets,  one  consisting  of  more  than  6C0O  choice  specimens, 
and  the  other  of  about  18,000,  the  two  noblest  collections  ever 
opened  in  the  United  States,  have,  with  a  liberality  highly  honora- 
ble, been  deposited  in  this  seminary  by  Col.  Gibbs  of  Boston.  The 
academical  buildings  consist  of  three  colleges,  each  4  stories  higli, 
and  104  feet  by  40,  containing  96  convenient  chambers,  a  chapel,  a 
lyceum,  and  a  large  dining  hall  and  kitchen  in  the  rear  of  the  oth- 
er buildings.  The  chapel  and  lyceum  are  between  the  colleges, 
and  project  beyond  them.  A  medical  institution  is  established  in 
the  seminary,  but  has  not  begun  its  operations.  It  is  to  consist  oi 
three  professorships  beside  that  of  chemistry,  one  of  the  materia 
inedica,  one  of  anatomy  and  surgery,  and  one  of  the  theory  an^ 
practice  of  physic.     The  funds  of  the  college  are  small 


1 5a  CONNECTICUT. 

Bacon  academy,  in  Colchester,  was  founded,  in  1801,  by  Mr. 
Pierpont  Bacon  of  that  town,  who  bequeathed  it  S3u,000.  It  is  a 
very  flourishing  institution,  and  has  usually  about  90  scholars. 

An  Episcopal  academy  was  founded  at  Cheshire,  about  1799. 
The  legislature  granted  it,  by  lottery,  g  15,000.  It  has  about  60 
Students,  and  is  flourishing. 

There  are  seminaries  of  the  same  kind  at  Canterlmry  and  Plain- 
field,  and  flourishing  academic  schools  at  Fairfield,  Danbury, 
Litchfield,  Ellsworth,  Windsor,  Hartford,  Norwich,  Plaiiifield, 
J«Jew-London,  Woodstock,  and  various  other  places.  Great  num- 
bers of  the  students  of  Yale  college  are  prepared  for  it  in  tne  fam- 
ilies, and  by  the  histruction,  of  clergymen. 

The  state  has  a  large  fund,  called  the  school  fund,  under  the 
direction  of  a  comniissioner,  amounting,  iu  October,  1811,  to 
S 1 ,20 1 ,065-83.  It  is  the  avails  of  lands  formerly  belonging  to  the 
state,  and  sold  by  them  in  1795  to  a  conipai»y  of  speculators  The 
yearly  interest,  together  with  S  12,000  from  the  public  taxes  is  an« 
Dually  devoted  to  the  maintenance  of  common  scuoolmasters. 

Cities  and  Toivns.  in  Connecticut  there  are  5  incorporated 
cities,  viz.  Ncw-Havcn,  Hartford,  New-London,  Norwich,  and 
Middletown. 

Nev/-Haven,  the  largest  town  in  the  state,  is  at  the  head  of  a 
iiarbor,  which  sets  up  from  Long  Island  sound.  The  city  covers 
about  a  squaie  mile,  and  was  originally  laid  out  in  9  squares  of  52 
rods  on  a  side,  separated  by  streets  4  rods  in  width,  and  forming  1 
large  square,  172  rods  on  a  side.  The  central  square  is  an  open 
«-reen,  and  is  a  very  beautiful  public  walk.  The  houses  are  750 
in  number,  of  v.'hich  314  are  built  on  the  streets  forming  the 
squares.  Tht  y  are  chiefly  of  v/ood,  generally  neat.  The  public 
edifices  are  the  collegiate  buildings  of  brick,  on  the  N.  W.  side  of 
v.he  green  ;  5  churches ;  3  Congregational,  1  Episcopalian,  and  I 
Methodist ;  a  handsome  state  house  and  gaol ;  3  neat  school  hous- 
es, and  an  alms  house.  There  are  here  15  public  schools  and  8 
pirvate  ones.  The  population  of  the  township,  in  1 790,  was  4484  ; 
hi  1800,  5157;  and  hi  1810,  6967.  That  of  the  city,  in  1787, 
was  3530  ;  in  1798,  4000;  in  1800,  4049;  ami  in  1810,  5772. 
The  state  of  society  in  this  town  is  uncommonly  agreeable.  The 
capital  steadily  employed  in  commerce  exceeds  g2,500,000.  The 
exports,  in  1806,  amounted  to  466,367,  besides  half  as  much 
more  shipped  at  New-York  ;  and  the  number  of  tons  of  shipping, 
in  1800,  to  11,011.     The  amount  of  duties,  in  1803,  was  Si 37,086. 

Hartford,  the  second  town  in  size  in  the  state,  lies  on  the 
west  bank  of  Connecticut  river,  50  miles  from  its  mouth,  in  the 
-midst  of  a  very  pleasant  and  fertile  country.  The  houses  stand 
chieCy  on  a  single  street  parallel  with  the  river,  and  about  60  I'ods 
from  it.  The  public  edifices  are  a  very  handsome  state  house  ;  2 
Congregational  churches,  one  of  them  of  brick,  and  among  the 
;nost  elegant  in  New-England  ;  1  Episcopalian  and  1  Baptist;  and 
a  handsome  bank.  About  half  of  the  houses  are  of  brick,  many  of 
them  3  stories  high,  and  well  built.     Their  whole  number  is  about 


CiONNFXTICUT.  15? 

500.  The  population  of  the  town,  in  1800,  was  5347;  and  in 
1810,6003;  that  of  the  city,  in  1810,  was  3995. 

New-London  stands  on  the  west  side  of  the  Tfiamcs,  3  miles 
from  its  mouth.  The  river  is  here  a  mile  wide  ;  and  the  town  is 
defended  hy  fort  Trumbull,  about  half  a  mile  below.  The  rivcv 
forms  a  large,  safe,  and  commodious  harbor,  and  has  5  fathom?; 
■water.  The  city  contains  one  Congregational,  and  one  Episcopa- 
lian church,  and  about  500  houses.  Its  population,  in  1810,  was 
3238. 

Norwich  is  14  miles  north  from  New-London,  and  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Thames.  The  city  contains  a  court  house, 
two  Congregational  churches,  and  one  Episcopalian;  and  3253 
inhabitants.  There  are  numerous  mill  seats  in  the  township,  and 
various  manufactures  aie  carried  on  here  to  some  extent. 

MiDDLEToWN  is  on  the  west  bank  of  Connecticut  river,  \5  miles 
south  from  Hartford.  It  has  two  Congregational  churches,  one 
Episcopalian,  one  Baptist,  and  one  Methodist  ;  and  carries  on  a 
considerable  trade.  In  1  810  the  city  had  2014  inhabitants,  and  the 
town  5382.  The  country  around  Middlctown  is  uncommonly 
handsome. 

Danbury,  Weathersfield,  Farmington,  and  various  others  arc 
also  flourishing  and  handsome  towns. 

Roads.  In  1808,  50  turnpike  companies  had  been  incorporated 
to  lay  out  as  many  roads  in  this  state.  At  that  time,  39  of  them, 
extending  770  miles,  were  completed.  The  most  expensive,  that 
from  Hartford  to  New-Haven,  34  miles,  cost  upwards  of  880,000. 
The  common  roads  in  the  state  are  generally  good. 

Manufactures  and  Inventions.  The  farmers  in  Connecticut, 
and  their  families,  are  mostly  clothed  in  plain,  decent,  homespun 
cloth.  Their  linens  and  woollens  are  manufactured  in  the  familv 
"way  ;  and  although  they  are  generally  of  a  coarser  kind,  they  arc 
of  a  stronger  texture  and  much  more  durable,  than  those  imported 
from  Great  Britain  and  France.  Many  of  their  cloths  are  fine  and 
handsome. 

A  woollen  manufactory  has  been  established  at  Hartford.  In 
Ncv/ -Haven  are  linen  and  button  manufacteries ;  and  a  cotton 
manufactory,  lately  established  on  a  large  scale.  In  East-Hart- 
ford are  glass-works,  a  snufi'and  ix)wder  mill,  and  iron  works,  and 
a  slitting  n)ill.  lion  v»'orks  are  established  also  at  Salisbury,  Nor- 
wich, and  other  parts  of  the  state.  At  Stafford  is  a  furnace,  at 
v/hich  are  made  large  quantities  of  hollow  Avare,  and  otlier  iron- 
mongery, sufficient  to  supply  the  whole  state.  Paper  is  manufac- 
tured in  many  places.  Nails,  of  every  size,  are  made  in  almost 
every  town  and  village  in  Connecticut,  and  sold  at  a  better  rate 
than  they  can  be  had  from  Europe.  Ironmongery,  hats,  candles, 
oil  from  flaxseed,  leather,  shoes  and  boots,  are  here  manufactured. 
The  manufacture  of  tin  platts  into  culinary  vessels,  is  one  of  the 
most  useful  in  this  state.  It  is  estimated  that  plates  and  irun  wire, 
to  the  amount  of  S250,000,  are  used  in  this  manutVicturc  annually, 
and  the  lir;  ware  thus  made  is  sold  in  all  parts  of  the  United  Siatest., 
m  Florida,  Loui>;iana,  and  Canada.     Metal  bv.ttons  to  tlie  aujoun'-. 


160  CONNECTICUT. 

of  nioi-e  than  §100,000  have  been  manufactured  at  Watcrbury  and 
other  places  ;  and  wooden  clocks  to  an  equal  amount,  in  different 
parts  of  the  state. 

In  Hu'iiplireysville  a  woollen  manufactory  has  been  established 
on  a  large  scale.  The  clotli  which  is  made  here  we  understand  is 
of  a  superior  quality.  Much  credit  is  due  to  colonel  Humphreys 
for  the  introduction  of  the  Merino  breed  of  sheep,  and  for  his  other 
exertions  in  promoting  the  manufactures  of  his  country. 

Here  is  a  larc^e  manufactory  of  fire  arms,  of  the  best  quality,  es- 
tablished by  the  inp;enious  Mr.  Whitney. 

Commerce.  There  are  five  ports  of  entry  in  Connecticut  ;  Fair- 
field, New-Haven,  Middletown,  New-London,  and  Stonington. 
The  amount  of  exports  in  1804  v/as  Sli516,I10;  and,  in  1810, 
S768,643.  Almost  allthe  produce  of  the  western  part  of  the  state 
is  entered  at  the  New-York  custom  house  ;  and  the  exports  in  the 
<x»asting  trade  are  greater  than  those  in  the  foreign  trade.  The 
commerce  of  the  state  is  chiefly  with  the  West-Indies,  and  with 
the  other  states.  The  exports  consist  of  horses,  mules,  oxen,  oak 
staves,  hoops,  pine  boards,  oak  plank,  and  timber,  butter  and  cheese, 
Indian  corn,  beef,  fish,  cider,  pork,  flax  seed,  leather,  candles,  pot 
and  pearl  ash.     In  1810  this  state  owned  45,1 10  tons  of  shipping. 

Climate.  No  climate  is  probably  more  healthy  than  that  of 
Connecticut,  and  few  more  favorable  to  longevity. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  shore  of  this  state  is  every  where  in- 
dented with  small  bays  and  harbors.  The  whole  country  is  re- 
wiarkably  well  watei'ed  both  with  large  rivers  and  with  brooks. 
But  a  small  part  of  the  state  is  mountainous  ;  and  but  little  of  it  is 
level.  The  great  body  of  it  is  hilly.  The  hills  are  generally  of 
moderate  size,  and  occur  in  quick  succession,  furnishing  the  trav- 
eller with  an  ever-varying  pr<jspcct.  These  hills  are  productive  ; 
and,  unless  forested,  are  devoted  to  tillage,  or  to  mowing  and  pas- 
turage. The  natural  green  of  the  Connecticut  landscape  presents; 
a  fine  contrast  to  the  unwilling  verdure  here  and  there  forced  from 
the  southern  soil.  All  the  mountains  are  covered  with  foresttrees. 
The  three  most  extensive  level  tracts  are  that  along  the  shore,  and 
the  valleys  of  the  Connecticut  and  the  Quinebog. 

Soil  and  Jc;riculitire.  The  great  bocsy  of  tlie  state  is  excellent 
land,  fitted  for  all  the  purposes  of  agriculture.  The  county  of 
Fairfield  is  the  best  in  the  state,  and  the  farmers  there,  as  a  body, 
are  remarkably  thrifty  and  prosperous.  The  interval  land  on  the 
Connecticut,  in  the  county  of  Hartford,  is  very  extensive,  and  of 
the  same  superior  quality  with  that  in  Hampshire  (Mass.)  The 
country  along  the  Quinebog  is  equally  rich  and  fertile,  and  is.  oc- 
cupied by  excellent  farmers.  Immense  numbers  of  neat  cattle, 
and  of  hogs,  are  annually  fattened  upon  maize,  and  the  beef  and 
pork  of  this  state  are  of  well  known  excellence.  The  quantity  of 
cheese  annually  made  is  very  great.  It  constitutes  the  chief  pro- 
duce of  Goshen  and  Stonington,  of  Pomfrst,  B'-ooklyn,  Woodstock, 
Canterbury,  and  several  other  towns  on  the  Quinebog.  About 
400,000lbs.  are  made  every  year  in  each  of  the  towns  of  Goshen 
:md  Stonington.     The  nuniber  of  sheep  is  great,  and  is  rapidly 


CONNECTICUT.  16i 

increasing.  Ten  years  hence  the  state  will  probably  produce  fine 
•wool  enough  to  clothe  its  inhabitants. 

Rivers.  The  Connecticut  runs  through  the  counties  of  Hart- 
ford and  Middlesex,  and  for  about  12  miles  borders  that  of  New- 
London.  Betrt'een  Hartford  and  Middletown  there  are  shoals, 
■which  stretch  across  the  river,  and  have  naturally  only  6  feet  water 
over  them  at  high  tide,  which  here  increases  the  depth  but  8  inch- 
es. There  is  a  bar  at  the  mouth,  which,  at  full  tide,  has  10  feet 
■water.  A  company  was  incorporated  in  1800,  to  deepen  and  wid- 
en the  channel  between  Hartford  and  Middletown.  They  have 
increased  its  depth  every  where  to  7^  feet.  About  3  miles  below 
Middletown  the  width  of  the  river  is  suddenly  contracted  to  about 
40  rods,  by  two  mountains.  The  banks  elsewhere  are  generally 
low,  and  annually  overflowed  and  enriched  in  the  spring. 

The  Houaatomiuc  enters  Connecticut  from  Massachusetts,  be- 
tween Canaan  and  Salisbury  ;  and  about  7  miles  from  the  line,  is 
precipitaied  over  a  perpendicular  fail,  60  feet  in  height.  Its  breadth, 
is  here  75  yards.  This  is  the  finest  cataract  in  New-England  ; 
and  in  the  spring,  is  superior  to  the  Cohoez  in  the  Mohawk.  The 
Housatonnuc  enters  Long  Island  sound  between  Milford  and 
Stratford.  For  sloops  and  brigs  drawing  10  feet  water,  it  is  navi- 
gable 12  miles  to  Derby.     Its  whole  length  is  about  140  miles. 

The  Thames  has  two  prhicipal  branches  ;  the  eastern  is  the  Qui' 
■nebog^  the  Shetucket  is  the  western.  These  branches  unite  at 
Norwich,  and  under  the  name  of  Thames,  run  17  miles  into  the 
sound,  at  New-London.  The  other  rivers  are  Faucatuc,  Quinifi- 
iacf  Farmington,  JVaugaticc.,  and  By7-ani  ;  the  fcriuer  forms  a  part 
of  the  eastern,  the  latter  a  part  of  the  western  boundary  of  the 
state. 

Moimtains.  The  Toghconnuc  range,  commencing  in  Ridge- 
field,  runs  northward  near  the  western  line  of  the  state.  A  branch 
from  this  range  runs  parallel  with  it  on  the  east  side  of  the  Housa- 
tonnuc. West  Rock  the  southern  extremity  of  the  east  ridge  of 
the  Green  mountains  is  a  fine  perpendicular  bluff,  fronting  S.  400 
feet  high,  and  2  miles  N.  W.  from  New-Haven.  Hast  Rock^  the 
southern  termination  of  the  Mount  Tom  range  is  a  similar  bluff, 
370  feet  high,  and  the  same  distance  E.  N.  E.  from  New-Haven. 
Mount  Carjnely  a  spur  from  the  same  range  in  Hamden,  has  a  sin- 
gular break  in  it,  near  the  W.  end.  The  opening  through  the 
mountain  is  on  both  sides  nearly  perpendicular  and  reaches  almost 
to  its  base.  Towards  the  N.  and  S,  it  gives  the  mountain  a  very 
xmcommon,  but  fine  appearance.  Its  height  is  about  600  feet. 
The  Blue  Hills  in  Southington  are  three  noble  eminences  in  the 
same  range.  The  southern,  the  loftiest,  is  about  1000  feet  high,  and 
is  called  the  highest  land  in  Connecticut. 

The  White  mountain  range  has  no  distinguished  summits  in 
Connecticut. 

Mineralogy.  Iron  mines  are  found  at  Salisbury,  Canaan,  Cole- 
brook,  Stafford,  Kent,  and  Ridgefield  ;  and  the  metal  is  abundant. 
There  is  a  lead  mine  on  the  bank  of  Connecticut  river,  two  miles 
below  Middletown.  whicli  was  wrought  in  the  revolutionary  war, 
31 


162'  NEW-YORK. 

and  was  productive.  Lead  ore  is  also  found  in  Milford.  There  iij 
a  cofifier  mine  in  Cheshire,  but  it  is  not  wrought,  and  another  at 
Simsbury.  Copper  ore  lias  also  been  found  at  Fairfield.  There  is 
a  mine  of  cobalt  at  Chatham,  and  antimony  has  heretofore  been  dug 
in  Glastenbury.  Marble  abounds  in  Washington  and  New-Milford. 
A  quany  of  superior  fineness  and  beauty  has  lately  been  discover- 
ed in  Milford,  near  New-Haven,  within  a  small  distance  of  a  boata- 
ble  stream,  which  passes  into  Long  Island  sound.  A  beautiful  yel- 
low pigment  was  discovered,  in  1809,  at  Tolland.  Very  fine  white 
clay  has  been  discovered  at  Washington,  fitted  for  the  manufacture 
of  porcelain.  There  are  quarries  of  excellent  freestone  in  Chat= 
ham,  East- Windsor,  Northaven,  Durham,  and  other  places. 


NEW-YORK. 

Extent.  THIS  state  lies  between  lat,  40  40  and  45°  N.  and  bE- 
tween  Ion.  73°  and  79  55  W.  The  length  of  the  state,  on  the 
parallel  of  42°  is  340  miles.  The  greatest  breadth,  from  N.  to  S. 
is  300  miles  ;  the  breadth,  from  the  commencement  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania line,  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  F95  ;  the  average  breadth,  be-' 
tween  that  line  and  lake  Ontario,  is  90;  and  the  breadth,  at  the 
western  extremity  of  the  state,  only  10  miles.  The  number  of 
square  miles,  exclusive  of  the  islands,  is  about  45,000. 

BouTidaHes.  Pennsylvania,  New-Jersey,  and  Long  Island  sound 
bound  it  on  the  S.  Connecticut,  Massachusetts,  and  Vermont,  from 
v/hich  it  is  separated  in  part  by  lake  Champlain,  on  the  E.  and  it 
has  Lower  Canada,  the  St.  Lav/rence,  lake  Ontario,  Niagara  river, 
and  Pennsylvania,  on  the  N.  and  W.  This  is  the  only  state  which 
extends  across  the  whole  United  States,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
western  waters. 

Divisions.  In  1731,  the  slate  had  10  counties;  in  1786,  12;  in 
1791,  16;  in  1800,  30  counties,  and  305  towns ;  and,  in  1810,  43 
counties,  and  452  towns.  The  state  is  also  divided  into  4  great  dis- 
tricts for  the  choice  of  senators,  viz.  the  southern,  middle,  eastern, 
and  western.  The  names  of  the  counties  in  each  district,  and  their 
population,  in  1810,  follow. 

South  District.  Middle  District. 

Counties.  Population.         Counties.  Population. 


Suffolk 

21,113 

Rockland 

7,758 

Queen's 

19,336 

Orange 

34,347 

King's 

8,303 

Ulster 

26,576 

Richmond 

5,347 

Sullivan 

6,108 

New- York 

96,373 

Dutchess 

51,363 

West-Chester 

30,272 

Delaware 

20,303 

Cirfprxp 

19,535 

Totalin  South  District  1 80,744 

Columbia 

32,390 

Totalin  Mid.District  198,381 


NEW-YORK. 

■IM 

£asl  Dislrkt. 

Counties. 

Population. 

Counties. 

Population. 

Oneida 

33,792 

P.cnsellaer 

S6,309 

Madison 

25,144 

Albany- 

."4,661 

Chenango 

2!, 704 

Schenectady 

10,201 

Broome 

8,i30 

Montgomery- 

41.214 

Niagara 

8,971 

Franklin 

2,617 

*  Cattarangus 

?           12,588 

Washington 

44,289 

*  Chataughque 

Essex 

9,477 

Cortlandt 

8,869 

Clinton 

8,002 

Onondaga 

25,987 

Saratoga 

33,147 

Cayuga 

29,843 

Seneca 
Tioga 

1  e.  ADQ 

Total  in  East  District  2 1 9,9 1 7 

7,899 

West 

Disirict, 

Steuben 

7,246 

Scoharie 

18,945 

Ontario 

42,032 

Otsego 

38,802 

Allegany 

.      1,942 

Herkimer  22,046 

Lewis  6,433 

Jefferson  15,140 

St.  Lawrence  7,885 


Total  in  West  District  360,007 


Total  in  the  state     959,049 


This  state  sends  27  representatives  to  congress. 

JVames.  New-York  and  the  adjoining  territories  were  original' 
Ij  called  JVetv- Virginia.  The  Dutch  gave  to  this  state,  in  1514,  the 
name  of  JVeiv-jVei  her  lands.  This  name  it  retained  till  1664  i  whenj 
after  the  duke  of  York,  it  was  called  JVew-York. 

History.  Henry  Hudson,  an  Englishman  in  the  service  of  the 
Dutch,  discovered  the  river  and  island  of  Manhattan  in  1609.  The 
next  year  the  Dutch  sent  ships  to  open  a  trade  with  the  natives. 

The  first  effectual  settlement  was  made  by  them,  in  1614,  on 
Manhattan  island. 

A  general  battle  was  fought  between  the  Dutch  and  Indians,  in 
1646,  at  Horseneck,  with  mutual  firmness  and  obstinacy.  The 
Dutch  kept  the  field. 

A  trading  house  was  erected  by  them,  in  1651,  on  a  low  point  of 
land,  which  commanded  the  Delaware.  The  next  year  it  was  tak= 
en  by  the  Swedes,  and  retaken  in  1655. 

In  1664,  the  English,  under  Richard  Nicolls,  took  the  country 
for  the  duke  of  York.  The  next  year  a  code  of  laws  v/as  prepared, 
and  the  year  after  confirmed,  by  the  duke.  By  the  peace  of  Bre- 
da, in  1667,  the  Dutch  confirmed  the  colony  to  the  English. 

In  1673,  an  expedition  from  Holland  took  the  city  of  New-York  ; 
and  the  whole  colony  soon  alter  submitted.  The  following  year 
the  country  was  restored  by  the  treaty  of  Westminster,  and  the 
duke  of  York  took  out  a  new  patent. 

The  first  legislative  assembly  of  the  province  met  in  Octoberj 
1683 

New-York  and  New-Jersey  were,  in  1688,  annexed  to  New-Eng- 
land ;  and  Sir  Edmund  Andross  was  constituted  governor  and  ad- 


*  Gene?see  county  has  bean  divided  into  these  two. 


164  NEW- YORK. 

miral  of  the  whole,  with  a  legislative  council  appointed  by  the 
king  ;  but  the  scheme  miscarried. 

In  1693,  Episcopacy  was  made  the  established  religion  of  the 
province. 

A  French  army  under  Dieskau  invaded  the  province,  from  Mont- 
real, in  1755,  and  was  routed  by  the  New-Yoik  and  New-England 
troops,  under  gen  Johnson.  Montcalm,  in  1757,  t'>ok  fort  Wiliiara 
Henry  on  lake  George.  An  unsuccessiul  auack  was  made  by  gen. 
Abercrombie,  in  1758,  on  the  French  fort  at  'J'iconderoga.  In  1759 
gen.  Amherst  took  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point ;  and  gen.  John- 
bon  defeated  a  French  army  near  Niagara,  and  took  fort  Niagara. 

In  1765  the  stamp  act  was  successfully  rt  sisted,  and  in  1767  the 
powers  of  the  provincial  assembly  were  conditionally  taken  away 
by  parliament.  The  ijasembly,  in  1769,  denied  the  right  of  parlia- 
ment to  tax  the  inhabitants. 

In  Sept.  1776,  the  British  occupied  New-York.  The  battle  at 
White  Plains  was  fought  Oct.  28,  and  fort  Washington  taken  Nov. 
16.  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point  were  occupied  by  Burgoyne, 
in  1777. 

On  the  20ih  of  April,  that  year,  the  state  constitution  v/as  estab- 
lished. 

In  1779  gen.  Sullivan  undertook  an  expedition  against  the  Iro- 
quois Indians,  and  destroyed  great  numbers  of  their  villages.  The 
British  evacuated  New-York,  in  1783. 

Original  and  fireseiit  Indian  Pofiulation.  The  Iroquois,  or  Six 
Nations,  occupied  a  great  part  of  the  state,  when  it  was  first  settled 
and  for  a  long  period  afterwards. 

The  Delawares,  a  tribe  of  the  Moheakanncew  nation,  then  pos- 
sessed the  S.  E.  part  of  the  state.  Numb  t  j  of  smaller  tribes  of 
the  same  n£.tion  weie  near  them. 

The  body  of  the  Six  Nations  inhabit  the  western  parts  of  this 
state.  The  principal  part  of  the  Mohav/k  tribe  reside  on  Grand 
river,  in  Upper  Canada  ;  and  ihere  are  two  villages  of  Senecas  on 
the  Allegany  river,  near  the  north  line  of  Pennsylvania,  and  a  few 
Delawares  and  Skawaghkees  on  Buffalo  creek.  Including  these, 
and  the  Stockbridge  and  Mohegan  Indians,  who  have  migrated  and 
settled  in  the  vicuiity  of  Oneida,  there  were  in  the  Six  Nations,  in 
1791,  according  to  an  accurate  estimation  made  by  Mr.  Kirkland, 
6,330  souls.  He  adds,  that  among  these  there  are  comparatively 
but  very  few  children. 

The  Oneidas  inhabit  on  Oneida  creek,  21  miles  west  of  fort 
Stanwix. 

The  Tuscarcras  migrated  from  North-Carolina  and  the  frontiers, 
of  Virgiiiia,  and  were  adopted  by  the  Oneidas,  with  whom  they 
have  ever  since  lived.     They  were  originally  of  the  same  nation. 

The  Senecas  inhabit  on  the  Genessce  river,  at  the  Genessee  cas- 
tle. 

The  Mohawks  were  acknowledged  by  the  other  tribes,  to  use 
iheir  own  expressions,  to  be  "  the  true  old  heads  of  the  confedera- 
cy."    The  great  body  of  this  tribe  now  live  in  Canada. 

The  Onondagas  live  near  the  Onondaga  lake. 

There  are  very  few  of  the  Delaware  tribe  in  this  state- 


NEW- YORK.  165 

Religion.  The  great  body  of  the  people  of  this  state  are  Presby- 
terians. The  Episcopalians  are  probably  the  next  most  numerous 
class.  In  1811  they  had  42  churches  and  47  clergymen.  The  other 
denominations  are  the  Dutch  Reformed,  Baptists,  Friends,  German 
Lutherans,  Moravians,  Methodists,  Shakers,  Catholics,  and  Jews. 
Tnert'  are  also  a  few  of  the  followers  of  Jemima  Wilkinson. 

The  ministers  of  every  denomination  in  the  state  are  supported, 
with  few  exceptions,  by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the  people, 
raised,  generally,  by  subscription,  or  by  a  tax  upon  the  pews. 

Grjvermn£7it.  The  legislature  is  composed  of  a  senate  and  house 
of  representatives.  A  certain  number  of  senators  is  chosen  by  each 
district.  They  hold  their  seats  for  4  years,  and  a  fourth  part  of  the 
members  is  elected  every  year.  The  representatives  are  chosen, 
by  the  several  counties  annually.  Voters  for  senators  must  possess 
a  freehold  to  the  value  of  S250  clear  of  debt.  Voters  for  repre- 
sentatives must  possess  a  freehold  to  the  value  of  IgSO,  or  have  rent- 
ed a  tenement  of  40  shillings  yearly  value.  A  council  of  revision, 
composed  of  the  governor,  chancellor,  and  the  judges  of  the  su- 
preme court,  is  empowered  to  revise  all  bills  passed  by  the  two 
houses,  and  to  return  them  to  the  house  where  they  originated.  If 
this  is  done,  two  thirds  of  both  houses  must  repass  them,  or  they 
are  defeated.  If  it  is  not  done  in  ten  days  from  the  time  a  bill  is 
passed  it  becomes  a  law  of  course. 

The  executive  is  composed  of  a  governor,  lieutenant  governor, 
and  council  of  appointment.  The  governor  is  chosen  every  3  years. 
The  lieutenant  governor,  chosen  for  the  same  time,  is  president  of 
the  senate.  The  council  of  appointment  consists  of  the  governor 
and  one  senator  from  each  district,  chosen  annually  by  the  legisla- 
ture. It  has  the  appointment  of  all  subordinate  officers,  cxecuiivs 
and  judicial. 

Tlie  courts  in  the  state  are,  a  high  court  of  erroi's  and  impeach- 
ment, composed  of  the  lieutenant  governor,  chancellor,  judges  of 
the  supreme  court,  and  the  senate  ;  a  court  of  chancery,  consistinji; 
of  a  chancellor  appointed  by  the  council  of  appointment,  a  supreme 
court,  consisting  of  5  judges  appointed  in  the  same  inanner;  a 
court  of  admiralty  ;  a  court  of  exchequer  ;  a  court  of  oyer  and  ter- 
miner and  general  gaol  delivery;  a  court  of  quarter  sessions; 
county  courts  consisting  of  3  judges  ;  and  justices'  courts.  Such 
parts  of  the  common  and  statute  laws  of  England,  as  were  recog- 
i)ized  in  April,  1775,  are  still  parts  of  the  law  of  the  state. 

Pojiulation.     The  number  of  inhabitants  was  in  the  year 

1749      100,000  f  535,063  whites"), 

^',cc^    96,775  whites?  ,,-  „,_ 
1756  \     ,c^  .o  1  '     1     ^  110,317 
^     13,542  blacks  5 

<;  220,008  whites  )  f  918,690  whitest 

'"""^     1 8,889  blacks  S'  1810-^     15,017  slaves  1959,04? 


100,000  r  555,063  whites") 

C    96,775  whites^  ,  _      l80o4     20,615  slaves  C  586,050 

\     13,542  blacks  5  *'"''' '^  (_    I0,374freebl.  ) 

^  220,008  whites  )  , 
\     18,889  blacks^ 

{3  14,133  whites') 
21,324  slaves  I; 
4,663  free  bl.  J 


/hites"]  [_    25,333freebl.J 

1790-;     21,324  slaves  1340,120 


{' 


i6S  NEW-YORK. 

The  items  of  the  census  of  1810  were  as  follows : 

males.        •     females.  iotal. 

Under  1 6  years  of  age  239,635  226,756  466,391 

Between  J  6  and  45  180,661  170,944  351,596 

45  and  upwards  53,985  46,718  100,703 


Total     474,231  444,418  918,699 

By  tiue  table  it  appears,  that  the  population,  in  1756,  has  been  in- 
creased, by  its  whole  amount,  once  in  7  years.  The  increase,  in 
the  last  10  years,  v/as  372,444,  and  the  ratio  of  increase  63  5  per 
cent.  Should  this  ratio  continue,  the  population,  in  1820,  will  be 
1,576,720.  This  state  has  131,895  more  white  inhabitants  than  any 
state  in  the  union,  and  is  the  second  in  the  whole  amount  of  its  pop- 
ulation. 

Mililia.  The  number  of  militia,  in  1789,  was  42,679;  in  1790, 
44,259;  in  1791,50,399;  in  1800,64,011;  and  in  1809,  102,id68. 
The  whole  number  of  males  between  16  and  45  is  180,652. 

Finances.  JNevv-York  is  the  lichest  state  in  the  union.  The 
funds  of  the  slate,  at  the  commencement  of  the  year  1811,  exclu- 
sive of  the  school  fund,  amounted  to  S4,19 1,805-25  ;  the  revenue 
of  which,  in  1810,  wa.s  ^278,489-95.  JJeside  this,  the  receipts  of 
the  treasury  for  that  year,  from  other  sources,  amounted  to 
^625,042-83.  The  state  debt,  at  that  time,  was  §880,000.  The 
state  also  possesses  about  1,000,000  acres  of  land,  which  still  re- 
main to  be  sold.  The  estimated  expence  for  the  year  181!  was 
S258,365-22. 

Manners  and  CustGms.  The  Dutch  were  the  first  settlers  of 
^ew-York.  They  settled  chitfly  on  Manhattan  and  Long  islands^ 
on  the  Hudson  and  Mohawk  rivers  ;  and  their  descendants  are  still 
found  in  these  places. 

The  ancestors  of  the  inhabitants  in  the  eastern  and  middle  parts 
of  Lotvs^  island,  were  either  natives  of  England  or  the  immediate 
descendants  of  the  first  settlers  of  New-England,  and  their  manners 
and  cu;>toms  are  similar  to  those  oi  their  ancestors.  The  counties 
inhabited  by  the  Djiitch^  have  adopted  the  English  manners  in  a 
great  degree,  but  still  retain  many  modes,  particularly  in  their  re- 
'iit^ion,  which  are  peculiar  to  the  Holh.uiders.  They  are  industri- 
ous, neat  and  economical  in  tl>c  management  of  their  farms  and 
-heir  families.  Whatever  business  they  pursue,  they  generally 
follow  the  old  tvack  of  their  forefathers,  and  seldom  invent  any  new 
improvements  in  agricullure,  manufactures;  or  mechanics. 

i3ebidcs  the  I>utch  and  English  there  are  many  immigrants  from 
Scotland,  Ireland,  and  Germany,  and  a  few  from  France.  Many 
Germans  are  settled  on  the  Mohawk,  and  some  Scotch  people  on 
the  Hudson,  in  the  county  of  Washington.  Most  of  the  Scotch  and 
Irish  arc  in  the  city  of  New-York,  and  retain  the  manners,  the  re- 
ligion, and  some  of  them  the  language  gf-thcir  respective  countries. 
The  French  immigrants  settled  principally  at  New-Rochelle  and 
on  Staten  Island,  and  their  descendants,  several  of  tliem,  have  filled 
iiome  of  the  highest  offices  in  the  United  Slates. 


NEW-YORK,  1.5? 

probably  two  thirds  of  the  popidation  of  tins  stale  are  now  com- 
posed of  New-Englandeis,  ov  their  immediate  dcbcendanis.  These 
are,  chiefly,  immigrants  from  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,  and 
they  retain  much  of  the  Nev/-Ent^iand  character.  Although  there 
is  no  law  of  the  state  to  compel  the  support  of  clergymen,  yet  these 
people  are  settling  them  in  every  town  where  their  numbers  are^ 
sufficient  to  maintain  one  ;  before  the  state  had  paid  any  atlentioa 
to  the  support  of  common  schools,  they  had  established  them  in  ai- 
Biost  every  settlement. 

The  character  and  manners  of  the  inhabitants  are  progressively 
improving,  and  it  has  a  large  body  of  men  in  the  several  profes- 
sions of  distinguished  eminence  and  worth. 

Literature.  After  the  revolution,  the  legislature  established  a 
corporation,  consisting  of  21  members,  (two  of  whom  are  the  gov- 
ernor  and  lieutenant  governor,)  who  are  styled  "  the  regents  oC 
the  university  of  New-York."  They  are  entrusted  with  the  care  oZ 
the  literature  of  the  state  ;  have  the  power  to  establish  and  chartez" 
colleges  and  academies  ;  and  are  to  report  annually  the  state  o'i 
these  institutions  to  the  legislature. 

There  are  three  colleges  in  this  state.  Columbia  college,  in  the 
city  of  New- York,  was  founded  in  1754;  and  till  the  revolution, 
had  the  name  of  King's  college.  It  is  entrusted  to  a  corporation  of 
24  members.  The  instructers  compose  two  faculties  ;  a  faculty  of 
arts,  and  a  faculty  of  physic.  Tlie  faculty  of  arts  consists  of  a  pre^ 
sident,  provost,  and  professors  of  mathematics  and  natural  philoso- 
phy, of  logic  and  geography,  of  languages,  of  chymistry  and  agri- 
culture, of  oriental  languages,  oflaw,  and  of  the  French  language. 
The  faculty  of  physic,  called  "  the  college  of  physicians  and  sur- 
geons," under  the  late  establishment,  consists  of  a  president  and 
vice  president,  joint  professors  of  anatomy,  surgery  and  physiolo- 
gy— professor  of  the  theory  and  practice  of  physic,  and  clinical 
medicine;  of  chemistry  ;  of  obstetrics  and  the  diseases  of  v/oniea 
and  children  ;  of  therapeutics  and  clinical  medicine  ;  of  the  insti- 
tutes of  medicine  ;  of  Batural  history  ;  of  medical  jurisprudence  ^ 
and  of  mineralogy  and  pharmacy.  In  1803,  the  legislature  of  this 
state  appropriated  g20,000  for  the  support  of  tills  useful  and  risinij 
establishment.  The  botanical  garden  established  in  this  state,  has 
been  placed  under  the  direction  of  the  professors  and  trustees  o£ 
this  medical  institution.*  This  institution  promises  to  rank  shortly 
among  the  first  and  most  useful  of  the  kind  in  our  country.  The 
college  building  is  a  stone  edifice,  150  yards  from  the  Hudson; 
containing  43  chambers,  a  chapel,  dining-hall,  library,  museum, 
anatomical  theatre,  and  philosophical  cham!>er.  The  annual  reve- 
nue of  the  collegiate  funds  amounts  to  go, 850. 

Union  college,  in  Schenectady,  was  incorporated  by  the  regents 
of  the  university,  in  17'94.  The  corporation  consists  of  24  mem- 
bers. The  instructers  are  a  president,  professors  of  mathematics 
and  natural  philosophy,  of  Greek,  and  of  Latin,  and  one  tutor. 
The  funds,  in   1796,  a'motmted  to  S42,422'60,  and  1504  acre-;  o^^ 

•  Am^x,  Med.  aud  Phil.  Rojistcr, 


168  NEW- YORK. 

land.     The  legislature  has  since,  by  loUciy,  granted  the  institution 
about  890,000.     This  seminary  is  on  the  whole  flourishing. 

Hamilton  college  lately  established  at  Clinton  has  been  richly 
endowed  l>y  the  legislature.  It  was  established  in  1812,  and  has 
very  promising  prospects. 

In  1811  there  were  upwards  of  40  acadenaies.  A  fund,  devoted 
to  the  support  of  common  schools,  amounts  to  §483,326  29;  the 
income  of  wl'.ich,  in  1810,  amounted  to  S36,427-64.  Beside  this, 
the  fund  has  314,770  acres  of  unsold  land.  A  common  school  is,  by 
law,  to  be  established  within  the  limits  of  every  4  square  miles  A 
long  time  probably  will  be  necessary  to  furnish  the  state  with  com- 
mon schools,  on  the  Connecticut  footing  ;  with  as  good  a  system, 
as  competent  directors,  or  as  unexceptionable  instructers. 

Cities  and  Towns.  The  city  of  New-York  was  founded  by  the 
Dutch,  in  1614  ;  and  was  then  called  JVetv- Amsterdam.  It  is  built 
on  the  S.  end  of  the  island  of  Manhattan,  an  island  15  miles  long, 
and  no  where  more  than  2  wide.  Its  width  at  the  S.  end  is  less 
than  1  mile.  The  harbor  is  a  large  bay,  formed  by  the  union  of 
the  Hudson  with  die  strait  of  the  sound,  called  East  river.  It  is  4 
riiilcs  wide  from  Long  Island  to  the  Jersey  shore,  and  extends  9 
miles  from  the  city  to  the  Narrows,  through  which  it  communicates 
with  the  ocean.  It  has  every  where  sufficient  depth  for  the  largest 
vessels.  The  city  reaches  about  o^  miles  on  the  East  river,  and  2 
miles  on  the  Hudson  ;  is,  on  an  average,  a  mile  wide  ;  and  is  about 
8  miles  in  circuit.  The  3  principal  streets  are  Pearl  street,  Broad- 
way, and  Greenwich  street.  The  first  is  parallel  with  the  East 
Tivcr  ;  the  other  two  with  the  Hudson  ;  and  they  all  run  the  whole 
length  of  the  city.  These  are  intersected,  though  not  at  right  an- 
gles, by  streets  running  from  river  to  river.  Pearl  street,  near  the 
E^st  river,  is  uneven,  narrow,  and  crooked  and  is  the  great  seat  of 
business.  Broadway,  in  the  middle  of  the  city,  is  70  feet  wide,  and 
Tuns  N.  and  S.  It  is  generally  very  well  built.  Greenwich  street 
near  the  Hudson  is  almost  straight,  and  is  wide  and  handsome. 
The  battery  is  a  fine  public  walk  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
island,  containing  several  acres.  The  park  is  a  small  field  of  the 
same  l;in,d  in  front  of  the  new  city  hall,  containing  half  an  acre. 
The  modern  houses  in  New-York  are  all  of  brick,  and  are  gene- 
rally well  built.  Many  of  them  are  handsome.  The  old  ones  are 
i\o\  very  numerous  ;  but  many  of  them  are  of  wood,  and  of  a  mean 
appearance.  The  new  city  hall  is  a  large  and  noble  building  of 
white  marble.  The  state  prison  is  2  miks  from  the  southernmost 
point  of  the  city,  on  the  bank  of  the  Hudson.  It  is  inclosed  by  a 
wall  16  feet  high,  is  extensive,  but  has  not  been  found  entirely  se- 
cure. The  city  contains  8  Presbyterian  churches,  8  Episcopalian, 
4  Dutch  Reformed,  3  Scotch  Presbyterian,  2  German  Lutheran 
and  Calvinistic,  3  Methodist,  2  Baptist,  1  Moravian,  1  Catholic,  and 
1  French  Protcstarit ;  in  all  35,  and  1  synagogue. 
The  population  of  the  city  was  in  the  year 

1697  4,302  1790  33,131 

3  756        10,381  ISOO  60,439 

1771        21,863  1805  75,770 

1785       23j6H  1810         93,914 


NEW- YORK.  165 

The  inhabitants  are  more  thaii  one  third  of  New-England  origin. 
i\fter  these  the  most  numerous  are  the  Dutch  and  Scotch  ;  and 
then  the  English,  Irish,  and  French.  The  commerce  of  the  city  is 
far  before  that  of  any  town  in  America ;  and,  in  the  course  of  20 
years,  it  will  probably  equal  that  of  any  city  in  the  world,  except 
London.  It  imports  most  of  the  goods  consumed  between  the  Rar- 
han  and  the  Connecticut,  a  coast  of  130  miles,  and  between  the 
ocean  and  the  lakes,  a  distance  of  400. 

Albany  was  founded  by  the  Dutch  in  1623,  and  by  them  called 
Fort  Orange.  It  capitulated  to  the  English,  Sept.  24,  1664,  who 
called  it  Albany.,  in  honor  of  the  duke  of  York  and  Albany  ;  and 
was  incorporated  in  1686.  It  stands  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Hud- 
son, 1 60  miles  N.  from  New-York,  near  the  head  of  sloop  naviga- 
tion. The  streets  are  geiierally  crooked,  but  several  of  them  are 
broad  and  well  paved.  It  contains  2  Presbyterian  churches,  3 
Dutch  Reformed,  1  Episcopalian,  1  High  Dutch,  1  Methodist,  1 
Friends,  and  I  Catholic:  in  all  9.  In  1712,  the  population  was 
7iearly  4000,  of  whom  450  wore  negro  or  Indian  slaves.  In  1797, 
it  had  863  houses,  and  6021  inhabitants;  in  1810,  9356.  A  major- 
ity of  the  inhabitants  are  Dutch,  and  many  of  them  arfe  New-Eng- 
landers. 

Schenectady  was  built  by  the  Dutch,  upwards  of  120  years 
since;  and  stands  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  16  miles  W.  N. 
W.  of  Albany,  and  the  same  distance  W.  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Mohawk.  The  streets  are  narrow,  dirty,  and  crooked,  and  the 
houses  are  almost  universally  of  the  Dutch  order  of  architecture, 
Tiie  public  buildings  are  a  Presbyterian,  Dutch,  and  Episcopal 
church,  and  the  college  edifice.  The  population  in  1790  was  3472  ; 
in  1800,  5289  ;  and  in  1810, 5909. 

Hudson  stands  at  tiie  head  of  ship  navigation,  on  the  E.  bank  of 
the  Hudson,  124  miles  N.  from  New-York,  and  36  S.  from  Albany. 
The  first  house  was  erected  here  in  1784.  The  population  in 
1790,  v/as  2584  ;  in  1800,  3664;  and  in  1810,  4048.  The  city  is 
laid  out  in  large  squares,  divided  by  spacious  streets,  crossing  each 
other  at  right  angles.  Each  square  contains  30  lots,  2  deep,  divid- 
ed  by  a  20  feet  alley.  Each  lot  is  20  feet  in  front  and  120  deep. 
Water  is  brought  to  the  town  by  an  aqueduct  from  a  spring  2  miles 
distant. 

PouGHKEFSiE  is  ott  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hudson,  halfway  between 
New-York  and  Albany.  It  has  5  churches,  and  a  very  flourishing 
academy.  The  situation  of  the  town  is  pleasant.  Population  in 
1800,  3246;  in  1810,  4670. 

Brooklyn  is  1  mile  from  New-York,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
East  river.  It  contains  an  Episcopal,  a  Dutch,  and  a  Methodist 
church.  The  shore  here  is  extremely  bold.  Population  in  1800, 
2378  ;  and  in  1810,  4402. 

Troy  is  a  beautiful  town  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hudson,  6  miles 
N.  from  Albany.     It  contains  3895  inhabitants. 

Lansingburg  is  3  miles  N.  from  Troy,  on  the  same  bank  of  the 
river,  and  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  MohaAvk.  Its  population  is 
1658. 

2? 


170  NEW-YORK. 

Utica  is  a  commercial  village  of  Whitestovvn  on  the  Mohawk,- 
100  miles  westward  of  Albanv.     All  these  are  very  thrifty  towns. 

Roads.  The  number  of  incorporated  turnpike  companies  is  135. 
Their  stock  amounts  to  S7, 558,000  ;  and  their  roads,  when  com- 
pleted, will  extend  4500  miles,  about  one  third  of  which  is  already 
made. 

Bridges.  There  are  36  bridge  companies  in  the  state,  with  stock 
amounting  to  g5O9,O00. 

Mamifacturts.  In  1810  there  were  in  this  state,  as  reported  ta 
the  sccretaiy  of  state,  33,u68  looms,  which  mariufacturrd  3,257,192 
yards  of  woollen  cloth,  5,399,836  of  Unen,  162,563,  of  mixed, 
and  216,199  of  cotton  ;  there  were  also  867  tan  works,  591  distille- 
ries, 42  breweries,  124  hat  factories,  427  fulling  mills,  and  413 
carding  machines. 

The  number  of  paper  mills  in  the  state  was  then  28  ;  of  glass 
works  6  ;  of  poAvder  mills  2  ;  of  rope  walks  18;  of  sugar  houses 
10;  of  oil  mills  28  ;  of  blastfurnaces  11;  of  air  furnaces  1'.);  of 
cut  nail  manufactories  44  ;  of  forges  48  ;  of  trip  hammers  49  ;  of 
rolling  and  slitting  mills  1  ;  and  of  cotton  manufactories  25. 

The  following  is  the  value  of  the  various  manufactures  ; 
Cloth  85,682, 828-62     Cordage  538,OOC-O0 

Leather  1,299,542- 16     Refined  sugar  420,706  00 

Distilled  liquors       1,685,79440     Oil  49,283-75 

Malt  liquors  340,765-68     Cut  nails  276,932-80 

Paper  238,268-00     Other  iron  651,980-00 


Hats  249,035-00 

Glass  716,800-00  S! 2,109,536  4a 

powder  10,400-00 

The  quantity  of  salt,  mnde  in  that  year,  was  525,000  bushels. 
Silk,  to  the  amount  of  2240  skeins,  was  made  at  Cayuga,  The  ar- 
ticle of  flour  probably  exceeded  in  value  tither  of  those  in  the  table  ; 
the  quantity  of  pot  and  pearl  ashes  and  maple  sugar  is  also  veiy  great ; 
but  we  have  seen  no  returns  of  the  quantity  or  value  of  either  of 
the  three. 

Commerce.  The  amount  of  exports  from  this  state  was,  in  the 
year  1807,  S25,35'',963  and  in  1810,  817,242.230.  Of  these  last, 
glO,928,573  were  of  domestic  produce,  and  86,313,757  of  foreign. 
The  shipping  belonging  to  the  state,  in  1810,  was  27  6. 5 60  tons,  be- 
side that  on  lakes  Erie,  Ontario,  and  Champlain.  Wheat  is  the 
staple  of  the  state.  The  other  great  articles  exported  are  Indian 
corn  and  meal,  lumber,  iron,  pot  and  pearl  ashes,  and  naval  stores, 
fish,  and  refined  sugar  ;  beside  the  productions  of  tlie  south  and  of 
foreign  countries.  Probably  more  than  one  third  of  the  domestic 
exports  of  this  state  is  derived  from  New-England  and  New- Jersey. 

Climate  and  Seasons,  This  state  stretches  tlirough  more  than 
4  degrees  of  latitude.  There  is  a  considerable  diversity  in  the  tem- 
perature of  the  two  extremes.  The  greatest  range  of  the  ther- 
mometer is  from  24°  below,  to  95°  above  the  cypher  of  Fahrenheit. 

Face  of  the  Country.  That  part  of  the  state  which  lies  between 
the  Hudson  and  Chenango  may  be  characterized  as  mountainous^ 
and  the  direction  of  the  ranges  is  from  S.  W.  to  N.  E.    A  narrow 


NEW-YORK.  in 

tract  on  and  near  tlie  Pennsylvania  line  is  generally  hilly.  The 
ctuiiiiy  between  that  and  lake  Ontario  is  an  extensive  level,  with- 
ciM  a  "ill  ni  the  whole  extent  deserving  the  name  of  a  aiountain> 
lav  :  vMUitry  around  lake  Ontario,  on  the  S.  and  E.  has  a  very 
si;;guis.!-  surface.  Lake  Erie  is  more  trian  300  feet  above  lake 
Ontario.  The  country  around  it  is  of  course  much  higher.  This 
high  tract  is  a  level  and  reaches  eastward  a  great  distance.  The 
descent  from  it  towards  Ontario  is  not  irregular  and  impercepti- 
bl(:  ;  but  is  made  by  three  successive  pitches,  or  steeps,  with  a 
\vidc  interval  of  level  land  between  them. 

The  country  in  the  nortlieastern  part  of  the  state  is  generally 
hilly  ;  and  the  lu.ight  of  land,  between  Champlain  and  the  St.  Law- 
rence, is  a  range  of  mountains  of  considerable  height.  A  strip  of 
land  about  30  miles  wide  along  the  St.  Lawrence  is  uneven.  At 
that  distance  it  becomes  rough  and  broken. 

Soil  and  ^ifriculture.  The  whole  tract  of  country  between  the 
Susquchannah  and  the  Genesee  is  very  ferlilc.  This  is  particu- 
lat'iy  true  of  Seneca  county,  wliich  lies  bt:tween  Seneca  and  Cayu- 
ga hikes,  ot  the  valley  of  the  Chenango,  and  of  the  Genesee  flats. 
These  last  include  a  strip  of  about  60,000  acres,  lying  on  both  sides 
of  the  river,  in  some  places  nearly  two  miles  wide.  These  flats 
prouuce  100  bushels  of  maize  lo  the  acre,  and  are  probably  as  rich 
as  land  can  be.  West  of  the  Genesee  the  soil  is  less  uniformly 
good.  Dutchess  and  West-Chester  are  excellent  land,  and  in  high 
cultivation.  The  country  along  the  Mohawk,  west  of  the  Oneida 
village,  is  very  rixh.  The  extensive  flats  of  Herkimer  have  been 
cultivated  a  long  period,  and  have  lost  none  of  their  fertility.  In 
the  counties  southeast  of  the  Chenango,  the  hills  are  covered  with 
#ne  limber,  and  when  cleared  make  excellent  pasture  ;  and  the 
intervening  vallies  produce  grass  and  every  kind  of  grain  in  abun- 
dance. The  country  north  of  the  Mohawk  is  also  generally  fertile. 
The  basis  of  the  soil  within  20  miles  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  a  stiff 
clay,  on  the  high  grounds  covered  with  loam,  and  in  the  low  grounds 
appearing  on  the  surface.  The  lands  along  the  Black  river  are 
among  the  best  in  the  state. 

Wheat  is  more  extensively  raised  in  this  state,  than  all  other 
grains.  The  next  after  it,  is  maize.  This  and  peas  are  exported 
in  large  quantities.  Rye  is  chiefly  raised  for  the  distilleries,  and 
barley  for  the  breweries.  Dutchess  county  is  one  of  the  oldest, 
and  is  under  the  best  cultivation.  In  the  new  settled  parts  of  the 
state  the  farmers  have  such  an  abundance  of  excellent  land  that 
they  pay  little  attention  to  improvements  in  agriculture. 

The  returns  lately  made  lo  the  secretary  of  stale  were  incom- 
plete respecting  the  agricultural  concerns  of  New-York.  The 
wxmhsY  oi sheefi  returned  for  Dutchess  was  83,855,  for  Albany 
34,342,  for  Jefierson  20,000,  for  Cayuga  49,872,  and  for  Onondaga 
44,893  :  in  all  332,962  in  a  population  of  157,135.  The  same  pro- 
portion for  the  whole  state,  exclusive  of  the  city,  would  make  the 
whole  number  of  sheep  upwards  of  1,280,000.  The  number  of 
homes  returned  for  Dutchess  was  14,341,  or  nearly  1  to  3|- individ- 
uals ;  and  oineat  cattle  to  51,650,  or  more  than  1  to  an  individual- 


J72  NEVV-YORK. 

A  similar  calculation  gives  the  vvhcle  number  oftiie  first  247,000, 
and  of  the  last  886,000. 

Bivers.  Niagara  river  and  the  St.  Lawrence  are  both  on  the 
frontiers.  The  Hudson,  which  runs  wholly  in  this  state,  has  already- 
been  described.  The  Allegany,  Susquehannah,  Delaware,  Passaic, 
and  Hackensac,  all  find  their  sources  here. 

The  Mohaivk  rises  N.  of  Fort  Stanwix  or  Rome,  8  miles  from 
Black  river,  and  running  S.  20  miles  to  the  site  of  the  old  fort, 
there  turns  eastward.  Its  course  is  thence  E.  by  S.  130  miles,  to 
the  Hudson,  into  which  it  empties  opposite  Lansinburg,  169  miles 
above  New-York.  Its  chief  tributaries  from  the  N.  are  Great  and 
Little  Canada  creeks.  On  the  S.  the  Scoharie  joins  the  Mohawk 
at  Fort  Hunter.  Its  waters  have  scooped  out  a  wide  and  deep 
ravine  for  more  than  80  miles. 

The  Genessee  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  and  ptu'sues  a  northwesterly 
course  of  about  50  miles,  and  then  a  northeasterly  one  of  70,  to  lake 
Ontario. 

Osnvego  river  rises  about  20  miles  N.  of  Rome,  where  it  is  call- 
ed Wood  creek.  At  Three  river  point,  it  receives  the  Seneca-,  or 
the  western  branch,  and  takes  the  name  of  the  O&ivego.  Its  course 
hence  is  N.  W.  45  miles,  to  lake  Ontario. 

Black  river  heads  near  the  sources  of  Great  Canada  creek,  and, 
after  a  course  of  107  miles,  empties  into  Hungry  bay,  20  miles  S. 
of  the  outlet  of  lake  Ontario. 

Racket  river  rises  near  the  Hudson,  and  runs  12  miles  to  the  St. 
Lawrence. 

Grass  river  runs  about  90  miles,  emptying  a  little  W.  of  Racket 
river. 

The  Ostvrgaichie  pursues  a  crooked  course  of  80  or  90  miles  to 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

Lakes.  Erie,  Ontario,  and  Champlain  each  form  a  part  of  the 
boundary  of  New-York. 

Lake  George  lies  S.  W.  of  lake  Champlain,  and  is  37  miles  long, 
and  from  1  to  7  broad.  On  each  side  it  is  skirted  by  lofty  moun- 
tains. Its  banks,  however,  are  uncommonly  regular  and  hand- 
some ;  and  its  water  is  so  transparent,  that  tie  bottom  is  visible  at 
almost  any  depth.  It  embosoms  more  than  200  beautiful  islands, 
most  of  which  are  covered  with  white  pine,  cedar,  spruce,  and 
hemlock  trees.  It  falls  into  lake  Champlain  by  a  channel  3  miles 
in  length,  in  the  course  of  which  its  waters  fall  upwards  of  100 
feet.  Scaroon  lake,  in  Montgomery  county,  is  one  of  the  sources 
of  the  Hudson,  and  is  !2  miles  long  and  1  broad. 

Oneida  lake  is  20  miles  long  and  5  broad.  It  abounds  in  the 
salmon  of  the  lakes.  From  the  south  it  receives  the  waters  of  Ca- 
zenovia  lake,  through  the  Chittenango. 

Onondago,  cr  Salt  lake,  is  6  miles  long  and  1  broad,  and,  at  the 
N.  end,  fiows  thiough  a  short  channel  into  Seneca  river. 

Hksneateles  lake  is  14  miles  long,  and  1  bread.  Its  waters  flow 
into  Seneca  river,  where  it  enters  Cross  lake.  Onvosco  lake  is  1  i 
miles  long  and  1  broad,  and  is  discharged  into  the  same  river. 


NEW-YORK.  173 

Cayugii  lake  is  40  miles  long,  and  from  2  to  4  broad,  aboundinjj 
wilh  sulmuii,  buss,  eels,  and  cat  iish. 

Seneca  lake  is  40  miles  long,  and  from  2  to  3  wide.  Its  outlet, 
the  Scayacc,  runs  N.  of  E.  12  miles,  and  falls  into  Cayuga  lake 
near  its  nioiitii.  Its  length,  from  that  lake  to  Mud  creek,  is  about 
four.  Cro(>kcd  lake  is  15  miles  long  and  from  1  to  2  \yidc.  A 
short  stream  connects  it  with  the  Seneca. 

Canandagua  lake  is  15  miles  long  and  nearly  2  bro:id.  INUid 
lake,  Honeyoy,  Hemlock,  and  Canesus  lakes  are  from  5  to  7  mile.s 
long. 

Chataughque  lake  lies  9  miles  from  lake  Erie.  It  is  18  miles 
long  and  3  broad.  Its  waters  flow  through  Conncwango  creek  in- 
to the  Allegany.  Boats  go  from  the  head  of  this  lake  to  NeAV-Or- 
leans,  a  distance  of  2430  miles. 

Otsego  and  Caniaderago  lakes  are  the  two  souices  of  the  Sus- 
quehannah.  The  first  is  9  miles  long  and  1  wide.  The  other  is 
nearly  as  large. 

Oswegatchie  lake  is  iS  miles  long,  and  nearly  parallel  v;it.h  the 
St.  Lawrence. 

Bays.  New-York  bay  is  9  miles  long  and  4  broad,  and  spreads 
to  the  southward  of  Manhattan  island  ;  having  Long  island  on  the 
E.  and  New-Jersey  and  Staten  island  on  the  W.  On  the  N.  }t 
opens  into  the  Hudson  ;  on  the  N.  E.  through  East  river,  into  the 
Sound  ;  on  the  W.  between  Staten  island  and  Bergen  neck  into 
Newark  bay  ;  and  on  the  S.  between  Staten  and  Long  islands, 
through  the  JVar7-Qivs,  into  Amboy  bay  and  the  Atlantic. 

South  bay  is  an  arm  of  lake  Champlain,  at  its  southwestern  ex- 
tremity. Wood  creek  flows  into  the  strait  which  joins  it  with  the 
lake. 

Hungry  bay  is  an  arm  of  the  Ontario,  20  miles  S.  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. 

Mountains.  The  Catskill  mountains  are  the  highest  land  in  the 
state.  They  lie  within  2  miles  of  the  Hudson,  are  estimated  to 
exceed  4000  feet  in  height,  and  are  said  to  be  ihe  N.  E.  termina- 
tion of  the  Allegany  ridge.  Roundtop  mountain,  near  Catskill 
(measured  by  Lieut.  Partridge)  is  3566  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  High  Peak,  in  the  same  vicinity,  is  3486  feet.  A  part  of 
Taghconnuc  mountain  is  in  Columbia  county.  The  highlancls  front 
upon  the  Hudson  for  18  miles,  and  are  between  40  and  60  N.  of 
New- York.     They  are  the  N.  E.  termination  of  the  Blue  ridge. 

Minerals.  Iron  ore  is  spread  over  the  stale.  Lead  is  found  in 
Herkimer  county,  and  silver  at  Philipsburg.  Mines  of  zinc  and 
copper  have  been  discovered.  Slate  and  plaster  of  Paris  are  a- 
bundant.  Coal,  sulphur,  marble  and  ising  glass  have  also  been 
found. 

Mineral  Waters.  Ballstown  springs,  30  miles  N.  of  Albany,  are 
in  the  bottom  of -a  bason  of  about  50  acres  in  extent.  The  soil, 
for  6  miles  around,  is  poor  and  sandy.  The  waters  are  strongly 
impregnated  with  iron,  soda,  common  salt,  and  carbonic  acid 
Their  temperature  in  summer  is  49°  of  Fahrenheit.  They  are 
deemed  a  specific  in  loss  of  appetite  and  indigestion,  and  are  high 
ly  serviceable  in  hypochondriac  and  bilious  cases,  in  obstructions; 


174  NEW-YORK. 

and  cutaneous  disorders,  and  in  the  stone  and  gravel.    They  are 
hurtful  in  inflammatory  disorders  and  consumptions. 

Saratoga  springs  are  10  miles  northeast  from  Ballstown.  The 
ingredients  are  the  same  in  both  springs,  but  are  strongest  in  those 
of  Saratoga. 

New-Lebanon  spring  is  in  the  township  of  Canaan,  29  miles  S. 
W.  from  Albany. 

Isla?ich.  Long  island  is  separated  from  Connecticut  and  the 
county  of  Westchester,  by  the  sound  ;  from  York  island  by  the 
East  river  ;  and  from  Staten  island  by  the  Narrows.  It  is  140 
miles  long,  and  from  1  to  15  broad.  When  first  discovered,  Wa- 
yandancc,  the  principal  sachem  in  Suffolk  county,  lived  at  Man- 
tauk.  The  population  of  the  island,  in  1790,  was  41,782  ;  in  1800, 
42,097  ;  and  in  18  iO,  48,752.  It  is  divided  into  3  counties,  King's, 
Queen's,  and  Suffolk. 

King's,  at  the  west  end  of  the  island,  is  10  miles  long,  and  8 
broad,  contains  6  townships,  and  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  Dutch.  Its 
largest  town  is  Brooklyn. 

Queen's  lies  cast  of  King's,  is  30  miles  long,  and  12  broad,  con- 
tains 6  townships,  and  is  inhabited  partly  by  Dutch  and  partly  by 
English.  Hempstead,  the  most  populous  township,  contains  5804 
inhabitants.  Suffolk  is  100  miles  long,  and  10  broad,  and  compre- 
hends two  thirds  of  the  island.  It  contains  9  townships,  and  is  in- 
habited almost  wholly  by  English.  It  was  first  settled  by  emigrants 
from  Lynn,  in  Massachusetts.  A  ridge  of  hills  extends,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  island,  from  Jamaica  to  Southhold.  The  south 
side  is  chiefly  flat  land,  naturally  covered  with  yellow  pines.  King's 
county,  and  the  western  part  of  Queen's,  have  been  rendered  fer- 
tile and  productive  by  husbandry.  The  greater  part  of  Suffolk  has 
a  poor,  thin  soil,  and  much  of  it  is  not  worth  cultivating.  The 
north  side  is  the  best.  Hempstead  plain,  in  the  eastern  part  of 
Queen's,  is  16  miles  long  from  east  to  west,  and  8  broad.  It  is  a 
perfect  level,  covered  with  nothing  but  a  wild,  rank  grass,  except 
in  three  or  four  places,  in  which  are  found  a  few  trees  of  stinted 
growth  :  (these  places  are  called  Inlands.)  South  of  the  plain, 
lies  another,  2  miles  wide,  called  the  Shrvb-oak  filai7i,  from  its  be- 
ing every  where  covered  willi  shrivelled  shrub-oaks,  none  of  which 
arc  above  4  feet  high,  and  many  of  them  probably  100  years  old. 
An  extensive  shrub-oak  plain  also  lies  on  the  eastern  border  of 
Hempstead  plain,  but  is  in  Suffolk  county. 

The  eastern  end  of  the  island  opens  like  a  shark's  mouth.  The 
southern  promontory,  in  the  township  of  Easiharapton,  is  20  miles 
long  and  rarely  more  tlian  1  wide.  The  extremity  is  a  cape,  well 
known  to  mariners,  called  Montauk  pinnt ;  on  which  a  light-house 
is  erected.  The  northern  promontory  is  chiefly  in  the  township  of 
Southliold,  and  is  12  miles  long,  and  every  where  narrow.  Its 
cape  is  called  Oyster-pond  pouit. 

The  principal  rivers  are  Pcconic  river,  which  empties  into 
Great  bay,  Connecticut  river  which  empties  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
island.  Roconkama  pond,  near  the  centre  of  the  island,  between 
Smithtown  and  Islip,  is  oliserved  to  rise  and  fall  every  7  years. 

Manhattav  hland  iias  already  been  described. 


NEW-JERSEY. 


\75 


Staten  island.,  9  miles  S.  of  Manhattan  island,  i^  separated  by 
Arthur  Kull  sound  from  New- Jersey,  on  the  N.  and  W  ;  has  York 
bay  on  the  N.  E.  the  Narrows  on  the  E.  and  Amboy  bay  on  the  S. 
It  constitutes  the  county  of  Richmond,  is  IS  miles  lone-,  and  6  or  7 
broad.  It  contains  4  townships.  The  population  in  1790,  was 
3835  ;  in  1800,  4563  ;  in  1810,  5347.  The  inhabitcUits  are  chiefly 
of  Dutch  and  French  extraction.  The  land  is  generally  rough  and 
hilly  ;  but  on  the  south  side  is  a  considerable  tract  of  level  good 
land.  The  chief  village  is  Richmond,  in  the  township  of  South- 
field.    Fresh  Kill  is  the  name  of  the  largest  creek. 


NEW-JERSEY. 


Extent.  NEW-JERSEY  is  situated  between  lat.  39°  and  41 
2^  N.  and  between  Ion.  74*^  and  75  29  W.  It  is  160  miles  long, 
from  N.  to  S.  Its  least  breadth,  in  the  centre,  is  42  miles  ;  the 
greatest  breadth,  in  the  north,  is  70,  and  in  the  south,  75.  The 
state  contains  about  8320  square  miles,  or  5,324,000  acres. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  is  New-York,  from  which  it  is  separat- 
ed by  a  line  drawn  from  the  mouth  of  Mahakamak  river,  in  lat.  41 
24,  to  a  point  in  Hudson  river,  in  lat.  41° ;  on  the  E.  and  S.  E.  it 
has  Hudson  river,  New-York  bay,  and  the  Atlantic  ocean  ;  on  the 
S.  W.  and  W.  Delaware  bay  and  river,  which  separate  this  state 
from  the  states  of  Delaware  and  Pennsylvania. 

Divisions.  The  state  is  divided  into  13  counties  and  1 16  towns. 
Counties.  No.  of  Population,  Chief  towns, 

towns,  in  1790.    in  1800.  in  1810. 


Cape  May* 

3 

2,571 

3,066 

3,632 

Cumberland* 

8 

8,248 

9,529 

12,670 

Bridgetown 

Salem* 

9 

10,437 

11,371 

12,761 

Salem 

Gloucester* 

10 

13,360 

16,115 

19,744 

5  Woodbury 
\  Gloucester 

Burlington* 

12 

18,095 

21,521 

24,979 

C  Burlington 
I  Bordenton 

Hunterdon* 

10 

20,253 

21,261 

24,553 

Trenton 

Sussex*         J 

15 

19,500 

22,534 

25,549 

Newtown 

Bergenf         "^     7 

12,601 

15,155 

16,603 

Hackinsac 

Essexf             .10 

17,785 

22,269 

25,984 

5  Newark 

I  Elizabcthtowii 

Middlesext     )     8 

15,956 

17,890 

20,381 

Amboy 

Monmouthf  J     7 

16,918 

19,872 

22,150 

Freehold 

Sosnerset              7 

12,296 

12.815 

14,728 

Boundbrook 

Morris 

10 

16,2i6 

17,750 

21,828 

Morristovvn 

Total    13  116    184,139     211,149     245,562 

Mame.     In  th^-.  original  patent  by  the  duke  of  York  to  lord  Berke- 

*  These  7  counties  lie  from  S.  to  N.  on  Delaware  river.     Cape  May  and 
Gloucester  extend  across  to  the  sea. 
t  These  4  counties  lie  from  N-  to  S.  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  state. 


ir6  NEW- JERSEY. 

}y  and  sir  George  Carteret,  the  province  is  called  J^ova-Cxsafed^ 
or  J^'erj-Jcrseij.  This  name  was  given  in  compliment  to  Sir 
George,  whose  family  came  from  the  isle  of  Jersey.  It  had  pre- 
viously been  considered  a  part  of  .Vcw-jy^therlands. 

History.  This  territory,  in  1664,  was  included  in  the  patent  of 
Charles  11.  to  his  brother,  the  duke  of  York  and  Albany,  who  soon 
■piiicv  conveyed  it  to  Berkeiy  and  Carteret.  In  the  same  year,  three 
inhabitants  of  Long  island  purcliased  a  tract  of  land  of  the  Indians ; 
and,  settling  on  it,  called  it  Elizabethtown. 

The  next  year  the  colony  received  its  own  governor,  sir  George 
Carteret,  and  became  a  distinct  province. 

In  1676  the  province  was  divided  into  East  and  West- Jersey. 

In  1688  the  Jerseys,  with  New- York,  were  annexed  to  New- 
Eiigland  by  royal  authority,  but  the  scheme  miscarried. 

In  1702  West-Jersey  was  resitrned  to,  and  in  due  form  accepted 
by,  queen  Anne,  who  united  it  to  East-Jersey,  and  made  both  one 
royal  government.  The  united  provinces  were  called  New-Jersey. 
New-York  and  New-Jersey  had  from  that  time  a  common  govern- 
or, till  the  year  1738.  The  constitution  of  the  state  was  formed  in 
1776. 

This  state,  for  severa;!  years,  was  occupied  by  the  American  and 
British  armies  during  the  revolutionary  war.  In  proportion  to  her 
population  and  wealth,  the  losses  of  this  state  in  men  and  property^ 
were  greater  than  those  of  any  of  the  other  states.  When  gen. 
Washington  was  retreating  through  the  Jerseys,  almost  forsaken, 
her  militia  constituted,  for  a  time,  the  principal  strength  of  his  ar- 
iny.  At  the  battle  of  Trenton  (Dec.  26,  1776)  the  British  receiv- 
ed a  check,  which  turned  the  tide  of  the  war  in  favor  of  the  Uniteri 
States.  The  battle  of  Princeton,  the  January  following,  obliged 
the  British  to  retire  to  winter  quarters.  The  battle  of  Monmouth 
was  fought  in  June,  1778.  Many  towns  and  places  in  this  state 
were  rendered  signal  by  some  battle  or  exploit  during  the  war. 

Religion.  Presbyterians  are  the  most  numerous  denomination. 
In  1811,  there  were  64  churches  and  42  clergymen. 

There  were  33  Dutch  Reformed  churches  and  42  clergymen. 

The  Episcopal  thuixh  at  that  time  comprised  24  churches  and 
10  clergymen. 

The  Baptist  church  is  connected  with  the  New-York  and  Phila- 
delphia Bapiibt  associaiions.  The  first  then  comprised  1 1  church- 
es, 2  clergymen,  and  1  licentiate  ;  the  last  19  churches,  1 1  clergy- 
nten,  and  3  licentiates. 

The  Methodists  make  New-Jersey  one  of  their  districts,  and  di- 
vide it  into  8  circuits.  The  district  is  committed  to  a  presiding 
elder,  and  each  circuit  to  an  itinerant.  These  are  appointed  by  the 
annual  Philadelphia  conference,  and  the  itinerants  are  subject  to 
an  interchange  once  a  year.  The  number  of  communicants  in  all 
the  circuits,  in  1811,  was  6739,  of  whom  about  500  were  people  af 
color. 

The  Congregational  churches  are  regulated  by  a  convention. 
Their  ntimber  is  9,  and  they  have  5  clergymen. 

Kew-Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  and  the  eastern  shore  o£ 


NEW- JERSEY.  177 

Maryland,  compose  a  district,  which  is  under  the  direction  of  the 
yearly  lijcetirig  of  Friends  at  Piiiladelphia.  Eleven  quarterly 
meetings  are  held  annually  in  this  district ;  of  which  four  are  held 
in  New-Jersey.  Eiijhtcen  monthly  meetings  ra'C  held  here,  and 
tlie  Friends  have  44  meeting  houses  in  the  state. 

Government.  The  legislature  is  composed  of  a  legislative  coun- 
cil and  house  of  assembly.  The  council  is  chosen  annually,  and 
consists  of  13  mem!)ers  ;  each  county  choosing  one.  A  member 
must  be  a  freeholder  in  the  county,  reside  in  it  the  year  preceding 
his  election,  and  possess  property  worth  1000/.  The  assembly 
consists  of  35  members.  They  are  chosen  annually,  must  reside  a 
year  in  the  county  previous  to  the  election,  be  freeholders,  and 
hold  property  worth  500/. 

The  executive  is  composed  of  a  governor,  chosen  by  a  joint  bal- 
lot of  tiie  legislature  ;  a  vice  president,  chosen  by  the  council :  and 
a  privy  council,  consisting  of  any  three  members  of  the  legislative, 
council.  The  governor  is  president  of  the  council,  chancellor, 
surrogate  general,  and  captain  general. 

The  governor  and  legislative  council  are  the  high  court  of  ap- 
peals, and  have  the  sole  power  of  pardoning.  This  court  sits  twice 
a  year  at  Trenton. 

The  court  of  chancery  is  a  court  of  law  and  equity,  of  which  the 
governor  is  the  sole  judge.     It  is  held  4  times  a  year  at  Trenton. 

The  supreme  court  consists  of  three  judges,  who  continue  in  of- 
fice 7  yfears,  and  sits  4  times  a  year  at  Trenton. 

The  qualifications  of  a  voter  are  property  amounting  to  50/.  and 
a  year's  residence  in  the  county  previous  to  the  election. 

Pofiula'Aon.     The  number  of  inhabitants  in  New-Jersey  was  in 

the  year 

,«.^„  C  43,r583  free  inh.  >      .- o^-r.  f  194,325  whites 

'^■^'1    3,981  slaves      ^     ^^'^^^    1800* 

1745  S  56,797  free  inh.>     ^^ 

(^    4,600  slaves       ^ 

,^„     (  free  inh.5  .  ,^  ,._    1810-{      10,85 1  slaves   }►  245,562 

u84  -J  ,  >  140,435 

I  slaves      \ 

{169,924  whites  "j 
li, 423  slaves     I  184,139 
2,792  free  bl.J 
The  items  of  the  census  of  1810  were  as  follows  : 

n^ales.  females.  tot^  whites. 

Under  16  years  of  age        56,728  53,849  110,577 

Between  1 6  and  45  '  42,625  42,553  85,178 

45  and  upwards  16,004  15,109  31,113 


r  194,325  whites') 
-j     12,422  slaves   [-211,149 
(_      4.402  free  bl.  3 

{226,868  whites"! 
10,85  1  slaves   I: 
7,843  free  bl.J 


Total       115,357  111,511  226,868 

New- Jersey  was,  by  the  census  of  1790,  in  point  of  population, 

the  ninth  ;  by  that  of  I'SOO,  the  tenth,  and  by  that  of  1810,  the  twelfth 

state  in  tlie  union. 
Militia.     The  militia  of  New-Jersey  according  to  the  returns  of 

IRIO  consisted  of 


]r8  NEW-JERSEY. 

4 1  regiments  of  infantry  3 1,27"4  men^ 

5  regiments  of  cavalry  1,632 

1  regiment  of  artillery  784 


47  33,710 

These  were  commanded  by  20  staff  officers,  159  field  officers, 
and  560  captains. 

Manners  and  Cui>to?n.^.  Many  circumstances  concur  to  render 
these  various  in  difP.-rent  parts  of  the  stat-e.  The  inhabitants  are  a 
collection  of  Low  Dutch,  Germans,  English,  Scotcli,  Irish,  and 
New-Englanders,  or  their  descendants.  National  attachment  and 
mutual  convenience  have  generally  induced  these  several  kinds  of 
people  to  settle  together  in  a  body,  and  in  this  way  their  peculiar 
national  manners,  customs,  and  character  are  still  preserved,  es- 
pecially  among  the  poorer  class  of  people,  who  have  little  inter- 
course with  any  but  those  of  their  own  nation.  Religion,  although 
its  tendency  is  to  unite  people  in  those  tilings  that  are  essential  to 
happiness,  occasions  wide  differences  as  to  manners,  customs,  and 
even  character.  The  Presbyterian,  the  Quaker,  the  Episcopalian, 
the  Baptist,  the  German  and  Low  Dut.ch  Calvinist,  the  Methodist, 
and  the  Moravian,  have  each  their  distinguishing  characteristics, 
either  in  their  worship,  their  discipline,  or  their  dress. 

Literature.  There  is  a  college  in  New-Jersey,  at  Princeton, 
called  Nassau  Hall,  founded  about  the  year  1738.  It  has  24  trus- 
tees. The  governor  of  the  state  and  the  president  of  the  college 
are,   ex  q^cio,  two  of  them. 

The  establishment  consists  of  a  president,  three  professors,  two 
tutors,  and  a  grammar  master.  The  president  is  also  professor  of 
moral  philosophy,  history,  and  eloquence.  There  is  a  professor  of 
mathematics  and  natural  philosophy,  including  astronomy  and 
chemistry,  which  is  treated,  not  only  in  its  relation  to  medicine, 
but  to  agriculture  and  manufactures.  To  the  tutors  is  committed 
the  instruction  of  the  two  lowest  classes  in  the  college.  The 
grammar  master  teaches  writing,  arithmetic,  and  the  elements  of' 
the  Latin  and  Greek  languages. 

A  theological  seminary,  which,  has  two  professors,  has  been 
lately  established  at  Princeton,  v/hich  promises  to  be  extensively 
useful  to  the  Presbyterian  churches  in  the  United  States,  and  pro- 
motive of  the  interests  of  religion  generally. 

There  have  been  heretofore  in  the  winter  session  generally  from 
70  to  80  students  in  the  four  classes  cfthe  college,  exclusive  of  the 
grammar  school.  In  the  summer  session  from  80  to  90.  This 
number  has  lately  been  considerably  increased. 

The  annual  income  of  t'pe  college  at  present,  by  fees  of  the  stu- 
dents and  otherwise,  is  about  1000/.  It  has  also  funds  in  posses- 
sion, to  tlic  amount  of  Si  0,000,  for  the  education  of  poor  and  pious 
youth  for  the  ministry  of  tlie  gospel ;  and  an  estate  in  Philadelphia 
for  the  same  purpose,  of  between  2  and  300/.  per  annum,  a  legacy 
of  the  late  Mr.  Hugh  Hodge,  a  man  of  eminent  piety. 

The  college  library  contains   about  4000  volumes.     There  arc 
besides  in  the  college  two  respectable  libraries  belonging  to  the 
wo  literary  societies. 


NEW-JERSEY.  179 

The  college  edifice  is  of  stone,  180  feet  in  length,  54  in  breadth, 
and  four  stories  high,  divided  into  forty-two  convenient  chambers 
for  the  accomodation  of  the  students,  besides  a  dining  hall,  chapel, 
and  room  for  the  library.  Its  situation  is  elevated  and  very  pleas- 
ant and  healthful. 

The  college  has  been  under  the  care  of  a  succession  of  presi- 
deiits,  eminent  for  piety  and  learning  ;  and  has  furnished  a  num- 
ber of  civilians,  divines,  and  physicians  of  the  first  rank  in  America,* 
aud  connected  as  it  now  is,  with  a  theological  seminary,  its  pros- 
pects of  future  prosperity  and  usefulness  are  very  encouraging. 

Queen's  college,  in  New-Bi'unsvvick,  was  founded  by  ministers 
of  the  Dutch  church,  for  the  education  of  their  clergy,  and  incor- 
porated in  1770.  Within  a  year  or  two,  under  its  present  venera- 
ble head,  it  has  become  a  flourishing  seminary.  Its  legislature  is 
a  board  of  trustees  consisting  of  29  members,  of  wiiom  the  presi- 
dent, governor,  and  chief  justice,  are  always  three.  The  instruct- 
ors are  a  president,  who  is  professor  of  theology  ;  a  vice  president, 
who  is  professor  of  moral  philosophy  and  belles  lettres  ;  a  professor 
of  mathematics,  natural  philosophy,  and  astronomy:  one  tutor ; 
and  a  principal  of  the  grammar  school,  connected  with  the  college^ 

There  are  15  incorporated  academies  in  New-Jersey,  scattered 
over  the  state. 

Cities  and  Tonuns.  Newark  is  pleasantly  situated  at  a  small 
distance  W.  of  the  Passaic,  near  its  mouth  in  Newark  bay,  and  9 
miles  W.  of  the  city  of  New-York.  It  is  a  flourishing,  well  built 
town,  and  contains  a  handsome  court  house,  a  gaol,  3  Presbyterian 
churches,  1  Episcopalian,  and  I  Baptist.  It  contained  in  1310, 
^008  inhabitants. 

Trenton,  the  seat  of  government,  stands  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Delaware,  opposite  the  falls,  and  28  miles  by  land,  and  34  by  water 
from  Philadelphia,  lat.  40  15  N.  The  public  buildings  are  a 
state  house,  court  house,  gaol,  academy,  2  Presbyterian  cliurches, 
1  Episcopalian,  1  Baptist,  and  1  Friends.  The  population  of  the 
town  in  1790,  was  1946  ;  and  in  18!0,  3002. 

Perth  Amboy  (city)  took  its  name  from  James  Drummond, 
carl  of  Perth,  and  Ambo,  the  Indian  name  for  point ;  and  stands  on 
a  neck  of  land  included  between  Rariton  river  and  Artiiur  Kull 
sound.  Its  situation  is  high  and  healthy.  It  had  in  1810,  815  in- 
habitants. 

Burlington  is  built  chiefly  on  an  island  in  the  Delaware,  1  mile 
long,  I  of  a  mile  broad,  and  18  N.  E.  from  Philadelphia.  The  pub- 
lic buildings  are  4  meeting  houses,  for  Friends,  Episcopalians, 

*  Accessus.                                Presidents.  Exitus. 

1746  Rev.  Jonathan  Dickenson,  1747 

1748  Rev.  Aaron  Burr,  1757 

1758  Rev.  Jonathan  Edwards,  1758 

1758  Rev.  Samuel  Davies,  1760 

1761  Rev.  Samuel  Finley,  D.  D.  1766 

1767  Rev.  John  Witherspoon,  D.  D.  1794 

1795  Rev.  Samuel  Stanhope  Smith,  D.  D.  resigned  1812 

1812  Rev.  Ashbel  Green,  D.  D. 


180  NEW-JERSEY. 

Methodists,  and  Baptists,  one  for  each,  an  academy,  city  hall,  and 
gaol. 

In  1803,  it  contained  282  houses,  and  2256  jnhabitants  ;  and  in 
1810,  2419  hihabitants. 

New-Brunswick  is  built  on  the  S.  W.  bank  of  the  Rariton,  14 
jiiiles  from  its  ntioiuh,  and  53  N.  E.  from  Philadelphia.  The  great 
road  from  New-York  to  Philadelphia  passes  throup;h  this  town. 
The  public  buildings  are  the  college  edifice,  1  Episcopalian  church, 
1  Dutch  Reformed,  and  1  Presbyterian.  The  population  in  1810, 
was  6312.  Half  of  tl;e  inhabitants  are  of  Dutch  origin. 
'  Princeton  is  a  pleasant  village  of  about  80  houses,  52  miles 
from  New-York,  and  42  from  Phiiadeipliia.  Its  public  buildings 
are  a  large  college  edifice  of  stone,  already  described,  and  a  Pres- 
byterian church  buili  of  brick.     Its  situation  is  remarkably  healthy. 

Elizabethtown  (borough)  is  15  miles  from  New-York.  In 
the  compact  part  of  the  town,  there  are  about  150  houses.  The 
public  buildings  arc  a  very  handsome  Presbyterian  brick  church, 
an  Episcopal  church  also  of  brick,  and  an  academy.  In  1810,  it 
had  2977  inhabitants. 

Manufactures.  In  Trenton,  Newark,  and  Elizabethtown,  are  a 
considerable  number  of  very  valuable  tanneries,  where  excellent 
leather  in  large  quantities  is  made,  and  a  part  of  it  exported  to  the 
Neighboring  markets.  Newark  is  the  seat  of  a  considerable  shoe 
manufactory.  In  Gloucester  county  is  a  glass  house.  Paper  mills 
and  nail  manufactories  are  erected  and  worked  to  good  advantage 
in  several  parts  of  the  state.  But  the  iron  manufacture  is,  of  all 
others,  the  greatest  source  of  wealth  to  the  state.  Iron  works  are 
erected  in  Gloucester,  Burlington,  Sussex,  Morris,  and  other  coun- 
ties. In  Morris  county  alone  are  no  less  than  seven  rich  iron 
mines,  from  which  might  be  taken  ore  suflicient  to  supply  the  U- 
ijited  States  ;  and  to  work  it  into  iron  are  two  furnaces,  two  rolling 
and  slitting  mills,  and  about  30  forges,  containing  from  two  to  four 
lires  each.  These  works  produce  annually  about  540  tons  of  bar 
iron,  800  tons  of  pigs,  besides  large  quantities  of  hollow  ware, 
sheet  iron,  and  nail  rods.  In  the  wivole  state  it  is  supposed  there 
is  yearly  made  about  1200  tons  of  bar  iron,  1200  do.  of  pigs,  80 
do.  of  nail  rods,  exclusive  of  hollow  ware,  and  various  other  cast- 
ings, of  which  vast  quantities  are  made. 

Coinjnerce.  The  amount  of  exports  from  the  ports  of  this  state, 
in  1810,  was  S4SO,267  ;  but  a  much  greater  amount  is  annually 
exported  from  the  state  through  New-York  and  Philadelphia. 
These  two  cities  import  almost  all  the  foreign  merchandize  con^ 
sumed  in  the  state.  Th.e  articles  exported  are  flour,  wheat,  horses, 
cattle,  hams,  cider,  lumber,  flaxseed,  leather,  and  iron.  The  New- 
York  and  Philadelphia  markets  are  constantly  supplied  with  large 
quantities  of  provisions  and  fruits  from  New-Jcrscy.  The  aggre- 
gate tonnage  of  the  state  of  New- Jersey  for  tlie  year  1S05,  was 
22,958  tons. 

Face  of  the  Coimtry.  The  tliree  northern  counties  are  moun- 
tainous. The  next  four  are  agreeably  diversified  with  hills  and 
vallies.     But  at  Sandy  Hook  commences  that  long  range  of  fl?.t 


NEW-JERSEY.  181 

Irviid,  which  lines  the  coast  of  the  middle  and  southern  states.  The 
greater  pan  of  the  6  southern  counties  are  of  this  description. 

Soil  a}id  Ji;rkuUure.  The  mountainous  parts  of  the  state  have 
generally  a  strong  soil,  and  are  a  fine  grazing  country.  '1  he  farm- 
ers there  raise  great  numbers  of  cattle  for  the  markets  of  New- 
York  and  Philadelphia.  They  also  raise  wheat,  rye,  maize,  buck- 
wheat, potatoes,  oats,  and  barley,  enough  for  their  own  consump- 
tion. They  keep  large  dairies,  and  make  great  quantities  of  but- 
ter and  cheese.  In  the  counties  that  are  uneven  and  hilly,  the  soil 
is  likewise  generally  rich,  and  very  productive  of  the  various  kinds 
of  grain,  particularly  wheat  and  maize.  Near  New-York  and  Phi- 
ladelphia, great  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  cultivation  of  fruit 
and  vegetables.  A  narrow  tract  of  country  on  the  Delaware,  in 
Burlington  and  Gloucester  counties,  is  rich  and  fertile  ;  as  are 
various  similar  tracts,  in  the  southern  half  of  ihe  state,  on  the  small 
rivers  and  creeks.  In  Salem,  Cumberland,  and  Cape  May,  there 
are  also  very  extensive  tracts  of  salt  meadow  on  the  river  and  bay. 
With  these  exceptions  the  greater  part,  at  least  four  fifths  of  the  6 
southern  counties,  or  two  fifths  of  the  whole  state,  are  barren. 
They  produce  little  else  hut  shrub  oaks  and  yellow  pines. 

Rivers.  The  Delaware  and  Hudson  are  on  the  W.  and  E.  sides 
of  this  state. 

The  Rariton  is  formed  by  two  considerable  streams,  called  the 
north  and  south  branches  ;  one  of  which  has  its  source  in  IMorris, 
the  other  in  Hunterdon  county.  It  passes  by  Brunswick  and  Am- 
boy,  and  mingles  v/ith  the  waters  of  the  Arthur  Kull  sound,  and 
helps  to  form  the  fine  harbor  of  Amboy.  It  is  a  mile  wide  at  its 
mouth,  250  yards  at  Brunswick,  and  is  navigable  about  16  rnilcs. 

The  Passaic  is  a  very  crooked  river.  It  rises  in  a  pond  in  the 
county  of  Orange,  (New-York)  and  runs  about  20  miles  before  it 
enters  New-Jersey.  Pursuing  a  southerly  course,  it  receives  the 
Pegunnoc  and  the  Rockaway  from  the  west,  and  falls  into  Newark 
bay,  after  a  course  of  about  65  miles.  It  is  navigable  10  miles,  and 
is  230  yards  wide  at  the  fcrry.  The  fall  in  this  river  at  Patterson 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  cataracts  in  the  union. 

The  Hackensac  rises  in  the  county  of  Rockland,  in  New-York, 
and  running  in  a  direction  parallel  with  the  Hudson  for  40  miles, 
falls  into  Newark  bay,  a  little  distance  east  of  the  Passaic.  It  is 
navigable  15  miles. 

Great  Egg  Harbor  river  rises  in  Gloucester,  and  runs  southeast 
A5  miles,  to  the  Atlantic,  emptying  into  Great  Egg  Harbor  bay.  It 
It  is  navigable  20  miles  for  boats  of  200  tons. 

Maurice  river  runs  south  by  east  30  miles,  and  empties  into 
Delaware  bay.  It  is  navigable  for  sloops  of  100  tons,  20  miles  ; 
and,  tor  small  craft,  nearly  to  its  source.  Most  of  the  little  creeks; 
on  the  coast  are  navigable  for  boats  the  greater  part  of  their  course. 
ihtMusco7iecunk  runs  southwest  about  40  miles,  and  falls  into 
ihe  Delaware,  a  little  below  Easton.  The  other  branches  of  the 
i^clawarc  are  Flatkill,  Paulinskill,  the  Request,  and  Rancocus. 
^nys.   Delaware  bay  is  the  southwestern  boundary  of  this  slate  ; 


IS2 


DELAWARE. 


and  New- York  hay  lies  east  of  Bergen  neck.  Newark  bay  lies  west 
of  Bergen  neck,  and  is  about  5  miles  deep,  and  2  wide. 

Amboy  bay,  between  Scaten  island  and  Middleton,  is  about  IS 
miles  deep  ;  and,  in  the  widest  part,  12  broad.  It  is  of  a  triangular 
shape,  and  opens  between  Sandy  Hook  (on  which  stands  a  light 
house  100  feet  high)  and  Long  island,  into  the  Atlantic  At  the 
liead  of  the  bay,  Arthur  Kull  sound  connects  it  with  Newark  bay 
and  New-York  bay,  and  at  the  northeastern  angle,  it  opens  through 
the  narrows  and  New-York  bay,  into  the  Hudson  and  Long  Island 
sound.  Arthur  Kull  Sound  is  the  narrow,  crooked,  strip  of  water 
between  Staten  island  and  the  Jersey  main.  The  northeastern  end 
A)pens  into  New-York  bay,  between  Bergen  neck  and  that  island  ; 
and  the  southwestern  into  Aniboy  bay,  between  the  same  island 
and  Amboy.     It  is  about  22  miles  long,  and  rarely  1  mile  wide. 

Moimtains.  The  South  mountain,  which  is  one  ridge  of  the  great 
Allegany  range,  crosses  this  state  in  about  latitude  41°.  The  Kit- 
tatinny  ridge  passes  north  of  the  South  mountain.  Several  spurs 
from,  these  mountains  are  projected  in  a  southern  direction.  The 
highlands  of  Navesink  are  on  the  sea  coast  near  Sandy  Hook,  in 
the  township  of  Middleton,  and  are  the  first  lands  that  are  discov- 
ered by  mariners,  as  they  come  upon  the  coast.  They  rise  about 
600  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 


DELAWARE. 


Extent.  DELAWARE  is  96  miles  long  from  N.  to  S.  Its 
greatest  breadth  is  36  miles,  and  its  least  10.  The  area  is  about 
2120  square  miles.  It  lies  between  lat.  38  29  30,  and  39  54  N.  and 
between  Ion.  74  56,  and  75  40  W. 

Boinidaries.  Bounded  N.  by  Pennsylvania  ;  E.  by  Delaware 
river  and  bay,  and  the  Atlantic  ;  S.  and  W.  by  Maryland. 

Divhions.     This  stale  is  divided  into  3  counties  and  25  town- 


chips. 

Counties.     No.  of 

Population. 

Chief  towns. 

towns. 

1790. 

1800. 

1810. 

Newcastle       9 

19,688 

25,361 

24,429 

Newcastle 

Kent                5 

18,920 

19,554 

20,495 

Dover 

Sussex          1 1 

20,488 

19,358 

27,750 

Georgetown 

25  59,096  64,273  72,674 

It  is  entitled  to  2  representatives  to  Congress. 

JS^ames.  This  country,  when  ceded  by  the  duke  of  York  and  Al- 
bany to  William  Pcnn,  was  called  The  Territories  of  Pennsyhm' 
nia.  When  it  obtained  its  own  assembly  (in  1703)  it  was  called 
The  Three  Lower  Counties  on  Delaware  ;  a  name,  which  it  retain- 
ed, till  the  formation  of  a  constitution,  in  Sept.  1776,  when  it  took 
that  oi  Delaware.  This  name  was  derived  directly  from  the  bay, 
but,  originally,  from  lord  De  la  War,  who  completed  the  settle- 
ment of  Virginia,  and  died  in  the  bay,  in  1618,  on  his  way  to  Vir- 
ginia. 


DELAWARE.  18a 

History.  A  colony  of  Swedes  and  Finns  settled  at  cape  Henlo- 
pen,  which  they  called  Paradise  point,  in  1627.  In  1630  they  built 
a  fort  at  Lewistown  ;  and,  a  year  after,  another  near  Wilminc;;ton, 
and  laid  out  a  small  town.  Soon  after  the  Dutch,  at  New-York, 
contested  their  ri^ht  to  the  west  bank  of  the  Delaware.  The  Dutch 
put  up  a  fort  at  Newcaiitle,  in  1651,  which  the  S.vedes  took  from 
them  the  next  year. 

In  1655  the  Dutch  reduced  the  Swedish  colony,  sent  the  princi- 
pal inhabitants  prisoi^ers  to  Holland,  and  received  the  rest  imuer 
their  protection,  making  the  country  a  part  of  their  colony  of  New- 
Netherlands. 

When  the  English,  took  possession  of  that  colony,  in  1664,  for 
the  duke  of  York,  his  governors  claimed  jurisdiction  over  the  west 
bank  of  the  Delaware,  and  continued  to  exercise  it  till  1682.  In 
that  year,  the  duke  gave  William  Ponn  a  deed  of  Newcastle,  and 
of  a  district  12  miles  round  it ;  and  another  of  a  tract  from  12  miles 
S.  of  Newcastle  to  Hoai  kill. 

In  1703,  a  partial  disunion  took  place  between  the  Three  Lower 
Cotmties,  and  the  colony  of  Pennsylvania  ;  and,  by  agreement,  they 
were  placed  under  the  government  of  their  own  legislature. 

The  boundary  line,  between  the  Counties  and  MaryiaiKl,  was 
settled,  after  a  long  dispute  between  the  proprietors,  in  1760. 

In  1765,  deputies  were  sent  from  the  Lower  Counties  to  the  first 
congress  at  New-York. 

In  April,  1775,  Richard  Penn,  proprietor  of  Pennsylvania,  re- 
signed his  jurisdiction,  over  the  Counties^  whereby  they  became  a 
distinct  colony  ;  and,  in  the  September  of  the  following  year,  a  con- 
vention of  representatives  chosen  for  the  purpose,  formed  a  con- 
stitution :  and  the  territory,  taking  the  name  of  Delaware.,  became 
a  free  and  independent  state.  During  the  revolutionary  war,  Dela- 
ware suffered  severely  ;  her  citizens  were  distinguished  for  their 
exertions  and  her  troops  for  their  valor. 

A  new  constitution  was  formed  for  the  state  in  June,  1792. 

lielig-ion.  In  this  state  there  is  a  variety  of  religious  denomina- 
tions. Of  the  Presbyterian  sect,  there  are  24  churches  ;  of  the 
Episcopal,  14  ;  of  the  Friends,  S  ;  of  the  Baptist,  7  ;  of  the  Metho- 
dist, a  considerable  number,  especially  in  the  two  lower  counties  of 
Kent  and  Sussex  :  the  number  of  their  churches  is  not  exactly  as-  . 
eertained.  Besides  these  there  is  a  Swedish  church  at  Wilmmg- 
ton,  which  is  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  the  United  States. 

Government.  The  legislature  consists  of  a  senate  and  house  of 
representatives.  The  representatives  are  chosen  annually,  and 
by  counties.  Each  member  must  be  24  years  of  age,  have  a  free- 
hold in  the  county,  and  have  been  a  citizc;n  and  inb.abitant  of  the 
state,  tliree  years,  and  of  t'ne  county,  one  year,  immediately  preced- 
ing tiic  election.  The  senators  are  chosen  trieniualiy,  and  by  coun- 
ties ;  they  must  be  27  years  of  age,  have  a  freehold  in  the  county 
ef  200  acres,  or  an  estate  of  1000/.  and  have  resided  the  same  peri- 
od as  the  members  of  Uie  other  house.  One  third  of  the  senator* 
go  out  annually.      The  assembly  meet  in  January. 

The.  governor  is  chosen  by  the  freemen  iricnnlalh-,  and  can  ho\<\ 


184  DELAWARE. 

the  cftice  only  3,  out  of  any  term  of  6,  years.  He  must  be  50  years 
old,  and  have  been  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  12  years,  and  of 
Delaware  the  6  preceding  his  election.  He  appoints  to  all  offices, 
the  appointment  of  \Vhich  is  not  provided  for  by  the  constitution. 
The  speaker  of  the  senate  in  case  of  the  absence,  death,  or  resigna- 
tion of  the  governor,  acts  in  his  room. 

All  persons  who  have  resided  in  the  state  two  years  next  before 
the  election  and  have  paid  taxes,  and  the  sons  of  such  persons,  are 
voters. 

The  courts  are  a  court  of  chancery,  a  supreme  court,  courts  of 
oyer  and  terminer  and  general  gaol  delivery,  a  court  of  common 
pleas,  orplians'  courts,  I'egisters'  courts,  courts  of  quarter  sessions 
in  each  county,  and  justices'  courts.  There  may  be  3  or  4  judges 
of  the  supreme  court  and  of  the  court  of  common  pleas  ;  one  of 
whom  must  reside  in  each  coxinty.  They  and  the  chancellor  hold 
their  offices  during  good  behaviour ;  and  together  form  the  high- 
est court,  called  the  high  court  of  appeals,  of  which  the  chancellor 
is  president. 

Pojiulation.     The  number  of  inhabitants  was  in 

{46,310  whites ~J  Too, 361  whites"! 

8,887  slaves  159,096  1810^     4,177  slaves  [.72j6r4 

3,899freebl.  j  (_  ISjiSefreebl.  J 

{49,852  whites"! 
6,143  slaves  164,273 
8,278  free  bl.  J 
The  items  of  the  census  of  1310  were 
males. 
Under  16  years  of  age  14,112 

Between  I  6  and  45  11,016 

45  and  upwards  2,878 

Total        28,006  27,355  55,3(51 

Delaware  had  a  smaller  population  than  either  of  the  other 
states,  at  each  of  the  national  enumerations. 

Militia.  The  militia  of  this  state  constitute  one  division,  con- 
taining three  brigades,  one  in  each  county.  Each  brigade  com- 
prises three  regiments.  The  whole  number  of  the  niiliiia,  in  1810, 
.including  ofiicers,  was  8346. 

Literature.  There  is  an  academy  at  Wilmington,  and  another 
at  Newark,  incorporated  in  1769.  The  legislature,  during  their 
session  in  January,  1796,  passed  an  act  to  create  a  fund  for  the  es- 
tablishment of  schools  throughout  the  state. 

Towiifi.  Wilmington  is  a  pleasant  town,  27  miles  southwest 
of  Philadelphia,  containing  700  houses,  mostly  brick,  and  about 
4200  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  two  miles  west  of  the  river  Dela- 
ware, between  Christiana  and  Brandywine  creeks,  which  at  this 
place,  arc  about  one  mile  from  each  other ;  but  uniting  below  the 
town,  they  join  the  Delaware  in  one  stream  400  yards  at  the  mouth. 
The  Christiana  admits  vessels  of  14  feet  draught  of  water  to  the 
rown  ;  and  the  Brandywine  those  of  7  feet.     There  are  6  places  of 


as  follow  : 

females. 

total  whites. 

13,411 

27,523 

11,068 

2^,084 

2,876 

5,754 

DELAWARE.  19.S 

iRiblic  worship,  vii.  two  for  Presbyterians,  one  for  Friends,  one  for 
Episcopalians,  one  for  Methodists,  and  one  for  Baptists. 

Dover,  in  the  county  of  Kent,  is  the  scat  of  government.  It 
stands  a  few  miles  from  Delaware  river,  and  consists  of  about  100 
houses,  principally  of  brick. 

Newcastle  is  33  miles  below  Philadelphia,  and  agreeably  sit- 
uated on  the  west  bank  of  Delaware  river.  It  contains  about  lOO 
good  houses,  and  was  formerly  the  seat  of  government.  This  is 
the  first  town  tljat  was  settled  on  Delaware  river.  It  curries  on  a 
brisk  trade  with  Philadelphia  and  Baiiimore. 

,  The  other  towns  of  importance  arc  Milford,  Duck  Creek  Cross 
Roads,  Port  Penn,  Newport,  Christiana  bridge,  Lewistown,  and 
Georgetown.* 

Canal.  The  Delaware  and  Chcsapeak  canal  is  to  pass  between 
E!k  river  and  Cliristiana  creek.  It  has  already  been  described. 
Another  canal  is  to  be  opened  between  Lcvites  creek  and  Reho- 
both  bay. 

JManufdctiires.  Almost  the  whole  of  the  foreign  exports  of 
Delaware  are  from  Wilmington  :  the  trade  from  tb.is  state  to  Phi- 
ladelphia is  great,  being  the  principal  source  wlience  that  city 
chaws  its  staple  commodity.  No  less  than  150,000  barrels  of  flour, 
500,000  bushels  of  wheat,  170,0(^0  bushels  of  Indian  corn,  besides 
Ijarley,  oats,  flax-seed,  piper,  slit  iron,  snuff,  salted  provisions.  Sec. 
8cc.  to  a  very  considerable  amount,  are  annually  sent  from  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Delaware  state  ;  of  which  the  Cln'istiana  is  by  far  the 
raost  productive,  and  probably  many  times  as  much  so  as  any  other 
creek  or  river  of  like  magnitude  in  the  union — 245,000  barrels  of 
flour,  and  other  articles  to  the  amount  of  80,000  dollars  more,  be- 
ing from  this  creek  ;  of  which,  to  the  value  of  550,000  dollars,  are 
manufactured  on  its  northern  bank,  within  two  or  three  miles  of  ihci 
navigation. 

Commerce.  The  exports  from  Delaware,  in  1804,  amounted  to 
g697,396  ;  and,  in  1310,  to  g  120,342.  Flour  is  the  capital  article. 
Lumber  is  also  exported  in  large  quantities,  and  is  procured  chief- 
ly from  the  Cypress  swamp. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  northern  half  of  the  county  of  New- 
castle is  hilly.  The  rest  of  the  state  is  generally  level  and  low. 
Large  tracts  of  land  in  the  spring  and  early  in  the  summer  are 
overspread  with  stagnant  water,  which  renders  them  unhealthy, 
and  unfit  for  agriculture.  The  spine,  or  height  of  lund,  in  the  pen- 
insula between  the  two  bays,  is  in  this  state.  In  the  south  it  com- 
raences  in  the  Cypress  swamp,  and  preserves  a  general  para.llelisni 
with  the  west  coast  of  Delaware  bay,  at  the  distance  of  about  15 
miles  from  it.  lu  the  upper  county  it  is  on  the  border  of  Mary- 
land. Its  progress  is  marked  by  a  chain  of  swamps,  in  the  two 
lower  counties  and  a  part  of  Newcastle,  from  which  the  waters  de- 
sc'jnd  on  each  side  to  the  Delaware  and  Chcsapeak.  The  height  of 
this  ridge  between  Elk  river  and  Christiana  creek  is  74  feet. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.     Delaware  is  chiefly  an  agricultural  state. 

•  For  an  account  of  these,  see  Amer.  Ga?;. 
24 


Wef  PENNSYLVA>riA. 

The  general  aspect  of  tlie  country  is  very  favorable  for  cultivs" 
tion.  In  the  county  of  Newcastle,  the  soil  consists  of  a  strong 
clay;  in  Kent,  there  is  ayconsiderable  mixture  of  sand;  and  in 
Sussex-  tiie  quantity  of  sand  altogether  predominates.  Wheat  is 
the  staple  of  this  stale.  Ii  throws  here  in  such  pei^'ection  as  not  on- 
ly to  be  particularly  sought  by  the  manufacturers  of  flour  through- 
out the  union,  but  aiso  to  be  disthiguished  and  preferred,  for  its  su- 
perior qualities,  in  foreign  markets. 

The  county  of  Sussex,  besides  producing  a  considerable  quantity 
of  grain,  particularly  of  Indian  corn,  possesses  excellent  grazing 
lands.  This  county  also  exports  very  large  quantities  of  lumber, 
obtained  chit  fly  from  an  extensive  swamp,  called  the  Indian  riverj 
or  Cypress  swanip. 

Rtvers.  The  Delaware,  is,  for  a  small  distance,  the  eastern 
boundary. 

Brandywine  creek  rises  in  Chester  county,  Pennsylvania,  and, 
running  E.  of  S.  45  miles,  falls  in*o  the  Delaware,  2  miles  below 
Wilmington.  Cliristiana  creek  rises  ot)  the  confines  of  Maryland, 
and  pursues  an  easterly  course  of  25  miles  to  the  Brandywine,  fall- 
ing in  about  a  mile  from  the  Delaware,  it  is  navigable  lor  boats 
to  Christiana  bridge,  13  miles.  Duck  creek  is  the  frontier  of 
Newcastle  and  Keiit.  The  names  of  the  other  streams  are  Jones's 
creek,  Motherkill,  Mispillion  creek,  Broadkill,  and  Indian  river. 
This  last  receives  the  waters  of  the  Cypress  swamp. 

The  Nanticoke  runs  a  part  of  its  course  in  Delaware. 

Bays.  Delaware  bay  is  half  in  this  state  and  half  in  New-Jer- 
s*ey.  Rehoboth  bay,  south  of  cape  Henlopen,  is  separated  by  a 
narrow  bar  from  the  ocean. 

Swam/is.  More  tlian  half  of  Cypress  swamp  lies  in  Delaware, 
It  is  12  miles  long,  from  N.  to  S  and  6  wide,  containing  nearly 
50,000  arres.  It  is  a  liigh  and  level  bason,  extiemely  wet,  though 
on  the  ridge  between  the  Chesapeak  and  the  Atlantic.  It  contains 
a  very  great  variety  of  plants,  trees,  wild  beasts,  birds,  and  reptiles. 
T-he  succession  of  swamps  farther  north  has  been  mentioned. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 

£xtent.  THE  shape  of  Pennsylvania  is  more  regular  than  that 
of  any  state  in  the  union,  except  Connecticut.  Its  northern  and 
aoutliern  lines  are  chit  fly  in  two  parallels,  and  its  western  is  a  me- 
ri  ian  line.  The  greatest  length  is  307  miles  from  E.  to  W.  The 
greatest  Iireadth  is  \  8  ),  and  the  common  breadth  between  the  two 
parallels,  160  It  lies  be  tween  lat.  ^9  42  and  42  17  N.  and  between 
Ion.  74  32  and  80  27  W.  The  state  contains  about  46,800  square 
miles. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  on  the  N.  by  lake  Erie  and  New  York  ; 
on  the  E.  by  a  small  p.;it  of  New-York,  and  Delaware  river,  which 
separates  il  from  New-York  and  Nt  w-Jersf  y  ;  on  the  S.  by  the 
States  of  Delaware,  Maryland,  and  Virginia  j    and  on  the  W.  by 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


m 


Virginia  and  Ohio.  On  the  western  line  Ohio  extends  ^0  milesj 
and  Virginia  ^8  j  on  the  southern,  Virginia  54,  and  Maryland  196 
miles. 

Divisions.  This  state  is  divided  into  43  counties  and  644  towns 
«s  follow  : 

Counties.      No 

City  and  county  > 
of  Philadelphia  5 
Montgomery 
Bucks 
Delaware 
Chester 
Lancaster 
Berks 

Northampton 
Luzerne 
Dauphin 
Northumberlandi 
Wayne 
Adams 
Allegany 
Armstrong 
Beaver 
Bedford 
Butler 
Ciawford 
Cumberland 
Fayette 
Franklin 
Green 
Huntingdon 
Lycoming 
Mercer 

Mifllin  and  Center  20 

Somerset 

Venango 

Warren 

Washington 

Westmoreland 

York 

Erie 

Cambria 

Indiana 

Clearfield 

JefTerson 

Tioga 

Potter 

jM'Kean 

fotsil     (S4*        602,545      ^10,091 


3,  towns.  No.  inh. 

No.  inh. 

Chief  lowns. 

in  1800. 

in  1810. 

18 

81,009 

111,200 

Philadelphia 

30 

24,150 

29,703 

Norristovvn 

32 

27,496 

32,371 

Newtown 

21 

12,809 

14,734 

Ctiestcr 

40 

32,093 

39,596 

Wesi-Chester 

25 

43,403 

53,927 

Lduca&icr 

38 

32,407 

43,156 

Reading 

35 

50,062 

38,145 

Laston 

29 

12,839 

18,lu9 

Wiiksbarre 

15 

22,270 

31,883 

Hai  risburg 

26 

27,797 

36,327 

Suiibury 

12 

2,562 

4,125 

18 

13,172 

15,152 

Gettysburg 

16 

15,U87 

25,317 

Piitbburg 

7 

2  399 

6,143 

12 

5,776 

12,lo8 

Beaverton 

15 

12  "39 

15,746 

Bedford 

13 

3916 

7,346 

14 

2,346 

6,178 

Meadville 

18 

25,3a6 

26,757 

Carlisle 

19 

20,159 

24,714 

Union 

14 

19,638 

?3,083 

Chamberston 

10 

8,605 

12,544 

Wayncsborougt 

18 

13,0o8 

14,778 

Huntingdon 

18 

5,414 

11,006 

Williamsport 

16 

3,320     ■ 

8,277 

■20 

13,609 

22,813 

C  Lewisburgand 
I  Bellefont 

15 

10,188 

11,284 

Somerset 

8 

1,130 

3,060 

Franklin 

2 

233 

827 

Warren 

23 

28,298 

36.289 

Washington 

14 

22,726 

26,392 

Gieensburg 

22 

25,643 

31,958 

York 

6' 

1,468 

3,758 

Erie 

3 

2,117 

7 

6,2!  4 

1 

875 

Clearfield 

1 

161 

JefTerson 

2 

1,687 

1 

29 

Potter 

1 

142 

188  PENNSYLVANIA. 

Jiame.  The  name  of  this  state  is  merely  that  of  the  original 
proprietor,  Penn,  and  a  connnon  termination,  derived  from  ii/ZiyQ,  a 
tvood  or  forest,  annexed.     It  was  given  to  the  territory  in   1681. 

History.  In  consequence  of  the  recommendation  of  Gustavus 
Adolphus,  a  colony  of  Swedes  and  Finns,  in  1627,  caine  over  to 
America.  They  landed  at  cape  Henlopen,  and  bought  the  lands  of 
the  natives  from  that  cape  to  the  ialls  of  the  Delaware,  which  they 
called  Keiv-Sivedeland' Stream.  Of  these  lands  they  accordingly 
took  possession.  In  1630,  they  built  a  fort  at  Lewistown,  near 
cape  Henlopen  ;  and,  the  next  year,  another  at  Christiana.  They 
formed  various  settlements  along  the  west  bank  of  the  Delaware^ 
as  high  as  Trenton,  and  in  the  interior  towards  the  Susquehannah  ; 
iand  instituted  a  regular  government,  founded  on  wise  and  correct 
principles.  This  small  colony  was  in  a  thriving  state  until  the  dis- 
pute with  the  Dutch,  who  were  already  established  in  New-York, 
and  set  up  a  prior  claim  to  the  Delaware.  Unsupported  by  a  dis- 
tant mother  country,  then  involved  in  war  with  five  principal  pow- 
ers of  Europe,  it  was  conquered  in  the  year  1654,  and  afterwards 
became,  with  the  other  Dutch  possessions  in  North-America,  part 
of  the  British  dominiors. 

In  JVhuch,  I6§1,  Charles  II.  granted  a  charter  to  William  Penn, 
the  son  of  admit  al  sir  William  Penn,  of  all  the  territory  between 
Delaware  river  and  bay,  and  lord  Baltimore's  province  of  Marylaiid. 
In  July  of  the  same  year,  Penn  disposed  of  20,000  acres  for  400/. 
to  a  company  consisting  chiefly  of  Friends  :  a  colony  of  whom 
came  over  towards  the  close  of  the  year,  and  commenced  a  settle- 
ment above  the  confluence  of  the  Schuylkill  with  the  Delaware. 
Penn,  the  next  year,  published  a  frame  of  government,  and  a  body 
of  laws,  agreed  on  between  him  and  the  purchasers  ;  and  obtained 
of  the  duke  of  York  his  deed  of  release  for  the  tenitory,  and  two 
deeds  conveying  to  him  a  tract  of  land  at  first  called  The  2'errito- 
ries  of  JPen'iinyh'artia  ;  afterwards  The  Three  Lonver  Cauntits  on 
JDeluware  Penn  himself  arrived  in  October,  and  called  an  assem- 
bly of  the  province  at  Upland,  (Chester)  in  December,  by  which 
the  three  lower  counties  were  annexed  to  the  province.  He  now 
purchased  of  tlie  natives  as  much  of  the  soil  as  the  colony  needed. 

In  1683  he  granted  the  freemen  a  new  charter,  and  the  assembly 
■was  first  held  at  Philadelphia,  which  he  had  planned  the  preceding 
3^ear.  Ten  years  aflervvards  the  king  and  queen  assumed  the  gov- 
ernment into  their  own  hands,  and  appointed  a  common  governor 
for  this  province  and  New-York. 

In  1694  Penn  was  reinstated  in  the  government,  and  he  appoint- 
ed a  lieutenant  governor  of  the  province.  Two  years  after,  the  as- 
sembly of  the  province  prepared  a  new  frame  of  government, 
■which  was  approved  of  by  the  governor,  who  granted  a  new  char- 
ter. 

In  1700,  the  assembly  surrendered  this  charter,  and  Penn  the 
next  year  prepared  his  last  charter,  which  was  accepted  by  a  ma- 
jority of  the  assembly,  but  rejected  by  the  representatives  of  u  e 
Territories  ;  in  consequence  of  v/hich  it  was  agreed  (in  1703)  tl  at 
tlie  representatives  of  the  province  and  those  of  the  territories 


PENNSYLVANIA.  i$9 

should  compose  two  distinct  assemblies  entirely  independent  of 
each  other. 

In  1742,  the  deputies  of  the  Six  Nations  relinquished  a  very 
large  tract  on  the  Susquehannah  to  the  state. 

In  1758,  gen.  Forbes  marched  with  a  company  from  Philadel- 
phia, and  reduced  fort  Du  Quesne,  which  was  called  Pittsburg. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  revolution  the  legislature  of  this  state  of- 
i'ered  the  proprietors  130,000/.  in  lieu  of  all  quit  rents,  which  was 
accepted  by  them. 

In  Sept.  1777,  this  state  was  made  the  theatre  of  war.  The  bat- 
tle of  Brandywine  was  fought  on  the  1 1th  of  that  month,  in  which 
the  Americans  were  defeated  ;  and  Philadelpliia  was  taken  by  sir 
William  Howe  on  the  27th.  The  battle  of  Germantown,  unfortu- 
nate to  the  Americans,  was  fought  on  the  4th  of  October.  In  No- 
vember the  British  took  fort  Mifflin  and  Mercer.  In  June,  1778, 
the  British  evacuated  Philadelphia  and  marched  into  New-Jersey. 
The  Pennsylvania  line,  with  part  of  the  New-Jersey  troops,  in  Jan- 
uary, 1781,  revolted,  complaining  of  a  want  of  pay  and  of  suitable 
clothing  ;  the  complaints  were  redressed,  and  subordination  was 
restored. 

In  1795,  and  1797,  the  city  of  Philadelphia  was  visited  with  the 
yellow  fever.     In  the  latter  year  1275  persons  died. 

An  insurrection  took  place,  1794,  in  the  4  western  counties,  to 
resist  the  laws  of  the  union,  laying  a  duty  on  distilled  spirits.  On 
the  approach  of  a  respectable  force,  in  October,  the  insurgents  laid 
down  their  arms,  and  were  pardoned. 

In  1799,  the  seat  of  the  state  government  was  removed  from 
Philadelphia  to  Lancaster ;  and,  in  1 800,  the  seat  of  the  federal  gov- 
ernment was  removed  from  Philadelphia  to  Washington. 

Religion.  In  Pennsylvania  were  the  following  denominations  of 
Christians,  with  the  number  of  their  respective  congregations,  ta- 
ken from  the  minutes  of  the  proceedings  of  each  society,  about  10 
years  since,  viz.  Presbyterians  86  congregations  ;  German  Calvin- 
ists  84  ;  German  Lutherans  84  ;  Friends  or  Quakers  54  ;  Episco- 
palians 26  ;  Baptists  15;  Roman  Catholics  1 1  ;  Scotch  Presbyte- 
rians 8  ;  Moravians  8  ;  Free  Quakers  1  ;  Universalists  1  ;  Cove- 
nanters 1  ;  Methodists  sfeveral,  besides  a  Jewish  synagogue  :  In 
all  about  400  religious  societies.  The  present  number  exceeds 
600. 

Govern7nent.  The  constitution  of  the  state  was  established  SepL 
2,  1790.  It  vests  the  legislative  power  in  a  senate  and  house  of 
representatives.  The  number  of  senators  cannot  be  less  than  one 
fourth,  nor  greater  than  one  third,  of  the  number  of  representatives. 
They  hold  tlieir  offices  4  years,  and  one  fourth  of  them  are  elected 
each  year.  They  are  chosen  by  districts.  The  qualifications  for 
the  senate,  are  the  age  of  25  years,  and  4  years  residence  immedi- 
ately preceding  the  election.  The  number  of  representatives  can- 
not be  less  than  60,  nor  more  than  100.  They  are  chosen  annual- 
ly by  the  city  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  respective  counties.  The 
qualifications  for  a  representative  are  the  age  of  majority,  and  1 
year's  residence  immediately  preceding  the  election.     Tl-.e  legis- 


^90  PENNSYLVANIA. 

lature  meet  once  a  year  in  December.     The  executive  ^wet  ig 

vested  in  a  governor,  who  must  be  30  years  of  aj^c,  and  have  resid- 
ed in  the  state  the  7  years  next  before  his  election.  He  is  elected 
for  3  years ;  but  cannot  be  chosen  above  9  out  of  any  12  yf.ais. 
He  has  the  appointment  of  subordinate  officers.  If  the  governor 
return  a  bill  presented  for  his  approbation,  two  thirds  of  each  house 
Ti:iust  concur  to  render  it  a  law. 

All  persons  have  a  right  of  voting,  who  pay  taxes.  The  elec- 
tion takes  place  in  October. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  supreme  court  consisting  of  4 
judges;  courts  of  oyer  and  terminer;  courts  of  common  pleas; 
orphan's  courts  ;  register's  courts  ;  courts  of  quarter  sessions  ;  and 
justices'  courts.  The  judges  of  the  supreme  court,  and  of  the 
courts  of  common  picas,  hold  their  office  during  good  behavior. 

Pofmlation.  The  number  of  taxable  inhabitants,  in  1760,  was 
55,657  ;  in  1770,  39,765  ;  and,  in  1793,  91,177.  The  whole  num- 
ber of  inhabitants  was  in  the  year 
1749  about  220,000  f  586,095  whites' 

"602,365 
1790-' 


of  inhabitants  was  m  the  year 

>  about  220,000  1*586,095  whites T 

r  424,099  whites"!  1800«{       1,706  slaves  I 

)X       3,737  slaves  1434,373  (^     1 4,5 64 free  bl.  J 

(_      6,537  free  bl.  J  f  786,804  whites  1 


r 

1810«J  795  slaves  ^8 10,09 It 


22,492  free  bl.  J 
The  following  were  the  items  of  the  census  of  1810  : 

males.  females.       total  whites. 

Under  15  vearsof  age  201,070  192,712  393,782 

Between  16  and  45  148,396  146,786  295,. 82 

45  and  upwards  52,100  45.740  97,840 


Total     401,566  385,238  786,804 

Pennsylvania  is  entitled  to  23  representatives  to  Congress. 
Militia.     In  1 800,  there  were  in  this  state, 

Infantry  in  battalion  66,1 16 

Flank  companies  18,648 

Artillery  and  cavalry  8,467 

Total  93,221 
The  state  at  that  time  contained  602,545  souls.  Supposing  the 
STiilitia  to  hear  the  same  proportion  to  the  whole  number  of  inhabi. 
itants  in  1810,  as  in  1800,  they  will  now  amount  to  about  125,000. 
Manners  and  Custows.  About  half  of  the  inhabitants  are  of 
English  and  New-England  origin,  about  a  fourth  German,  and  an 
eighth  Irish.  The  rest  are  Scotch,  Welch,  Swedes,  and  Dutch. 
Tiicse  various  classes  retain  in  a  great  degree,  their  own  national 
character.  The  Germans,  Duich,  and  Catholic  Irish  retain  their 
ov/n  languages,  and  many  of  them  cannot  speak  English.  The 
Swedes,  who  have  the  character  of  "  probity,  mildness,  and  hospi- 
tality," have  blended  the  English  language  with  their  own,  and 
speak  neither  w^ell.  The  diversities  of  religion  here  arc  also  very- 
great.  The  inhabitants,  who  are  of  English  and  New-England 
origin,  are  mostly  Friends,  Episcopalians,  and  Presbyterians.  They 


PENNSYLVANIA*.  i91 

live  principally  in  the  city  of  Philadelphia,  and  in  the  counties  of 
Chester,  Philadelphia,  Bucks,  Mom<^omeiy,  and  Luzerne.  The 
Irish,  and  descendants  of  Irisli,  are  chiefly  settled  in  the  western 
and  frontier  counties  ;  a  large  prcjpoilion  of  them  are  Presbyterians 
from  the  north  of  Ireland.  Tncre  are  likewise  many  Roman  Cath- 
olics from  this  nation. 

The  Germans  are  most  numerous  in  the  north  paVt  of  the  city  of 
P.iiladelphi'ii,  and  in  the  counties  of  Philadelphia,  Montgomery, 
Bucks,  Dauphin,  Lancaster,  York,  and  Northampton  ;  chiefly  in 
the  four  last ;  but  are  spreading  in  other  parts.  Tiity  consist  of 
Lutherans,  (who  are  the  most  numcruus  seel)  Calvinists,  Moravi- 
ans, Catholics,  Mennonists,  Dutch  B  ipdsls,  (cortupliy  called  Tan- 
kers and  Dunktrsy  by  way  ofreproactij  and  Zwingfeliers,  who  are 
a  species  of  Quakers.  These  are  a:l  distinguished  for  their  tem- 
perance, industry,  and  economy.  Tlie  Germans  liave  usually  a- 
bout  a  fourth  of  the  members  in  the  assembly  ;  ar.d  some  of  them 
have  arisen  to  the  first  honors  in  the  state,  and  now  fill  a  number  of 
the  higher  offices. 

Literature.  Dickinson  college*  at  Carlisle,  was  foui<.ded  in  1 78  ", 
and  put  under  the  care  of  40  trustees.  It  has  a  principal,  wlio  is 
professor  of  logic,  metaphysics,  and  moral  philosophy,  a  professor 
of  mathematics  ;  of  the  learnt  d  languages  ;  of  modern  languages  ; 
a  lecturer  on  natural  philosophy  and  chemistry,  and  a  tutor  ;  a  phi- 
losophical apparatus,  and  a  library  of  about  3000  volumes  ;  lO^OOQ 
acres  of  land,  and  S^  0^666  67  in  funded  certificates.  The  number 
of  students  is  about  100.     This  seminary  is  flourishing. 

There  is  an  institution  in  Piuladelphia,  called  the  university  of 
Pennsylvania.  The  philosophical  apparatus,  which  was  before 
very  complete,  has  been  lately  increased  to  the  value  of  several 
hundred  pounds.  The  funds  of  the  university  produce  annually  a 
revenue  of  about  2365/.  The  aggregate  number  of  students,  in  the 
several  schools,  is,  on  average,  about  500  ;  and  the  number  usually 
admitted  to  degrees  in  each  year,  about  25.  The  medical  estab- 
lishment connected  with  it  is  the  most  respectable  in  the  union. 

In  1787,  a  college  was  founded  at  Lancaster,  and  named  Frank- 
lin college,  after  Dr.  Franklin.  This  institution  hitherto  has  beeu 
merely  nominal. 

At  Washington,  in  the  western  part  of  the  state,  a  college  was 
established  about  1892,  with  a  fund  of  several  thousand  acres  of 
land. 

The  Episcopalians  have  an  academy  at  Yorktown,  in  York  ccun= 
ty.  There  are  also  academics  at  Gcrmantuwn,  at  Pittsburg,  at 
AUenstown,  and  other  places. 

The  sciiools  for  young  mt  n  and  women  in  Bethlehem  and  Naz- 
areth, under  the  direction  of  the  people  called  Moravians,  are  a- 
mong  the  best  esiablisnmi.-nts  of  t!ic  kind  in  America.  Besidca 
these,  there  are  numerous  private  schools  in  different  parts  of  the 
stite  ;  and,  to  pro  note  the  education  of  poor  children,  the  legisla-* 
ture  has  appropriated  a  large  tract  of  land  for  the  establishment  cf 

*  Named  after  the  Hon.  John  Dickinson  of  Pennsylvarsia. 


l?r  PENNSYLVANIA: 

tree  schools.  A  bill  for  establishing  schools  throughout  the  state^,' 
waa  passed  February,  1796.  Much,  however,  remains  to  be  done 
on  this  subject. 

Cities  and  Towns.  Philadelphia,  the  Indian  Coaquannoc,  and 
alter  New-York,  the  most  populous  city  of  the  union,  was  planned 
ajul  founded  by  William  Penn,  in  1682  ;  and,  incorporated  in  1701. 
Tt  lies  on  the  narrow  isthmus  between  the  Schuylkill  and  Delaware. 
Tlie  city  extends  E.  and  W.  2  miles  between  the  two  rivers,  ancf 
N-  and  S.  1  mile  on  the  Schuylkill,  and  3  on  the  Delaware.  The 
streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  Nine,  of  two  miles  in 
length,  run  from  river  to  river,  and  23  of  1  mile  or  upwards,  run 
N-  and  S.  The  houses  are  pi'incipally  of  brick,  three  stories  high, 
and  built  in  a  plain,  neat,  style,  without  much  display  of  ornament. 
Those  in  Sanson  street  are  uniform  ;  as  are  most  of  those  in  Wal- 
ii\it  and  Second  streets.  The  number  of  houses  in  1769,  was  4474. 
The  population  in  1790,  Avas  28,522,  in  1800,  41,220,  and  in  1810, 
53,722  ;  exclusive  of  the  suburbs.  Including  the  suburbs,  in  1810, 
there  were  92,247  inhabitants  in  Philadelphia.  The  city  contains 
35  churches.  The  most  numerous  denominations  are  Presbyte- 
rians, Friends,  Episcopalians,  Baptists,  and  Catiiolics. 

The  trade  of  the  city  is  very  extensive.  It  imports  foreign 
•roods  for  the  greater  part  of  the  state,  for  half  of  New-Jersey,  and 
for  Delaware  ;  and  is  now  contending  with  New-York,  New-Or- 
Jeans,  and  Montreal,  for  the  commerce  of  the  western  country. 
The  Delaware  is  navigable,  as  far  as  Philadelphia,  for  ships  of  any 
size,  and  for  sloops  to  Trenton.  The  Schuylkill  is  navigable,  for 
Jarge  ships,  as  high  as  the  town.  Almost  all  the  exports  from 
Pennsylvania,  except  what  go  down  the  Ohio,  are  snipped  from: 
this  city.  The  aggregate  tonnage  for  the  year  1810,  was  125,431 
tons.  The  Philadelphia  library  contains  more  than  20,000  volumes  ; 
xnost  of  them  well  selected,  and  accessible  to  all  persons.  The 
chief  literary  and  humane  societies  are  the  American  philosophical 
society  ;  the  college  of  physicians  ;  the  society  for  promoting  po- 
litical inquiries  ;  th<i  Pennsylvania  hospital  ;  the  Philadelphia  dis- 
pensary ;  the  Pennsylvania  society  for  the  abolition  of  slavery  ;  the 
society  for  alleviating  the  miseries  of  prisons  ;  the  Pennsylvania 
society  for  the  encouragement  of  manufactures  and  useful  arts  j 
the  Pliiladelphia  society  for  the  information  and  assistance  of  im- 
TOigrants,  and  two  other  societies  of  the  same  kind  ;  one  for  the 
relief  of  German,  and  another  for  the  relief  of  Irish  immigrants  j 
and  a  humane,  an  agricultural,  marine,  and  various  other  charita- 
ble societies.  Few  cities  in  the  world,  of  the  same  population  and 
riches  as  Philadelphia,  are  better  provided  with  useful  institutions, 
both  public  and  private.  There  are  also  a  sufficient  nutiiber  of  a- 
cademies  for  the  instruction  of  both  sexes.  Almost  every  religous 
society  has  one  or  more  schools  under  its  iuimediate  direction, 
where  children  belonging  to  the  society  are  taught  to  read  and 
write,  and  are  furnished  with  books  and  stationary  articles. 

This  city  is  governed  by  a  mayor,  recorder,  15  aldermen,  and  30 
common  council  men  ;  according  to  its  present  charter,  granted  in 
the  year  1789. 


PENNSYLVANIA.  m 

I'he  city  is  increasing  very  rapiJly.  In  1802,  there  were  built 
454  houses;  in  1803,  385;  in  1804,  273  houses.  The  environs 
are  very  pleasant,  and  finely  cultivated.  Philadelplua  lies  in  lat. 
39  56  54  N.  Ion.  75  8  45  W.  Irom  London.  It  is  i  10  miles  from 
the  ocean,  by  the  river  and  bays  60 ;  ina  S  E  direction.  It  is  347 
miles  S.  W.  of  Boston,  95  from  New-York,  144  N.  E.  of  Washing- 
ton. 

Lancaster,  the  seat  of  government,  and  the  largest  inland 
town  in  the  United  Slates,  is  built  on  a  side  hill,  a  mile  and  a  tialf 
W.  of  Conesioga  creek  ;  which  falls  into  the  Susquehannah,  9 
miles  S.  by  VV.  from  the  town.  The  public  buildings  are  a  hand- 
some statehouse  and  markethouse  of  brick,  a  strong  stone  gaol, 
and  6  churches  for  Presbyterians,  Episcopalians,  German  Luther- 
ans, German  Calvinists,  Moravians,  and  CutnoliCb.  The  population 
in  1 800,  4292  and  in  I8!0,  5405. 

PiTTbDUKG  lies  on  a  beau.iiul  plain,  between  the  Allegany  and 
Monougaheia,  at  their  confluence.  The  site  of  the  town  is  low> 
and  liable  to  inunuaiious.  The  streets  cross  each  other  at  right 
a  Isles,  and  the  plan  ot  the  town  n  semliles  that  of  Phiiarlelphia.  It 
contained  in  1808,  about  400  houses,  and  in  1810,  4768  inhabitants. 
It  has  a  courthouse,  gaol,  4  churches,  and  an  academy.  Pittsbur,^ 
is  3u3  miles  VV.  by  N.  from  Pniladeiphia  ;  its  ncisjjhboring  hills 
abound  with  coal  ;  it  is  already  an  important  n)anufacturing  town  ; 
and  is  probably  destined  to  be  one  of  the  large  cities  of  the  west- 
ern country.     Lat.  40  31  44  N.  Ion.  80  8  W* 

Carlisle,  125  miles  W.  by  N.  from  Pniladeiphia,  is  built  on  a 
pleasant  plain,  near  the  southern  bank  of  Conedogwinet  creek. 
The  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles  The  public  build- 
ings are  a  court  house,  gaol,  college,  and  4  churches.  Population 
in  1800,  2032  ;   in  1810,  249  1. 

Canals.  It  has  long  been  an  object  of  contemplation  to  establish 
a  water  communication  between  lake  Erie  and  Philadelphia.  The 
country  was  surveyed  in  1790,  by  public  commisisioners,  who  pro- 
posed the  following  route,  the  whole  distance  of  which  is  561  miles. 
Up  the  Sclmylkill  to  Reading;  thence  to  the  he«.d  waters  of  the 
Tulpehocken,  which  were  to  be  connected  by  a  canal  with  those 
of  the  Quitapahilla,  a  branch  of  the  Swetara,  and  down  this  last  to 
the  Susquehannah  ;  thence  up  the  Susquehannah,  the  Juniata,  and 
the  Frankstown  branch,  to  Frank's  Old  town  ;  thence  by  a  canal  to 
Poplar  Run,  and  by  a  portage  of  18  miles  across  the  mountains  to 
the  Little  Connemagh,  and  down  that  river  and  the  Kiskemanitas 
to  the  Allegany ;  thence  up  the  Allegany  and  French  creek  to  L© 
Bceuf ;  and  thence  by  a  portage  of  15  miles  to  the  lake. 

Attempts  have  been  made  to  complete  the  two  first  stages  since 
179  1  ;  but  hitherto,  owing  to  the  want  of  funds,  they  have  not  been 
eoiDpleted. 

At  tlie  Conewago  falls  in  the  Susquehannah,  in  the  gap  of  the 
Blue  Ridge,  the  descent  of  which  is  19  feet,  a  canal  has  been  com= 
pleted  for  several  years,  1  mile  in  length  ;  expence  §14,000. 

Commtrce.  The  value  of  the  exports  from  this  state  was  in  1799, 
^12,43 1,967,  and  in  1810,  JSIO>993;398.  Oftlxis  last  sum  J54.75lj634 
25 


ft)*  PENNSYLVANIA-. 

vfcve  of  domestic  produce,  and  §6,313,757  of  foreign.     The  trade' 
with  the  eastern  and  southern  states  is  chiefly  by  barter. 

Climate.  The  climate  of  Pennsylvania  is  perceptibly  more  tem" 
perate  than  that  of  the  Ne\v-Enp;Iand  states.  The  winters  are 
never  so  severe,  and  tlie  summers  are  i^enerally  warmer.  Snow" 
lies  on  the  ground  but  a  short  period  in  the  winter,  and  sleighs  are 
but  little  used.  This  is  however  generally  a  healthy  country,  and 
has  but  few  peculiar  diseases. 

J'^ace  of  the  Country.  The  counties  of  Bedford,  Huntingdon, 
Mifflin,  Cumberland,  Franklin,  Dauphin,  and  part  of  Northumber- 
land, Berks,  and  Northampton,  are  mountainous ;  the  mountains, 
stretching  in  a  N  E.  and  S.  W.  direction  a  little  E.  of  the  centre 
of  the  state.  The  rest  of  the  country  is  generally  level  or  uneven. 
The  streams  in  this  state  have  a  i.^reat  n'lmhtr  of  falis,  suitable  for 
every  kind  of  mill  works,  and  labor  saving  machines. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  A  great  proportion  of  the  state  is  good 
land  ;  and  no  inconsiderable  part  excellent  The  two  richest 
tracts  are,  one  en  the  south  line,  comprising  York  and  Lancaster 
counties,  and  the  valley  of  Franklin  and  Cumberland  ;  and  the 
other  in  the  N.  W.  including  the  land  between  lake  Erie  and  the* 
sources  of  the  eastern  branches  of  the  Allegany.  Generally  the 
soil  is  more  fit  for  grain  than  grass.  The  borders  of  the  streams 
and  rivulets  are  good  natural  meadows;  but  the  turf  of  other  un- 
improved lands  is  greatly  inferior  in  the  quantity  and  quality  of  ita 
grass  to  that  ofthe  eastern  states.  This  is  a  serious  inconvenience^ 
and  renders  it  necessary  for  the  farmers  to  cultivate  large  quanti- 
ties of  clover  and  other  artificial  grasses.  Wheat  is  the  grain  of 
far  the  most  general  cultivation.  It  flourishes  admirably,  and  fears 
no  enemy  here  but  the  Hessian  fly,  whose  ravages  however  are  not 
so  fatal  as  in  New-England.  Maize  is  of  the  next  importance. 
Buck  wheat  yields  a  very  considerable  crop  throughout  the  coun- 
try. Rye,  within  the  last  ten  years,  has  been  very  generally  culti- 
vated for  the  distilleries.  The  crop  of  barley  is  constantly  increas- 
ing with  the  number  of  the  breweries.  That  of  oats  is  sufficient 
for  the  demand.  The  Germans  cultivate  spelts  for  their  horses. 
Hemp  is  now  raised  extensively  in  the  western  part  of  the  state^ 
and  the  crop  is  very  rapidly  increasing.  Flax  has  a  portion  of 
ground  on  almost  every  farm.     Potatoes  yield  a  great  crop. 

Rivers.  The  Delaware  is'thc  eastern  boundary.  The  Susque-. 
Iiannah  and  the  Allegany  run  the  greater  part  of  their  course  ia 
this  state  ;  the  Ohio  42  niiles ;  the  Monongahela  partly  in  Virgin- 
ia ;  the  Tioga  chiefly  in  New-York,  and  about  3  miles  in  Pennsyl- 
vania.    All  these  have  been  described. 

The  Schuylkill.,  a  branch  of  the  Delaware,  rises  N.  W.  of  the 
Kittatinny  mountains,  and  empties  opposite  Mud  island,  5  miles  in 
a  straight  line  below  Philadelphia.  Its  whole  length  is  about  120 
miles. 

The  Lehigh  rises  near  Wilksbarrc,  and  makes  its  way  to  the 
Delaware,  at  Easton,  75  miles  from  its  source  ;  of  which  distance 
it  is  navigable,  for  boats,  30  miles. 

The  Sivctara  and  Conestoga  both  run  S.  W.  about  40  or  45  milcsv 


PENNSYLVANIA,  IM 

«,ad  fall  into  the  E.  side  of  the  Susquehannah.    The'former  is  boat- 
able  15  miles.  I 

The  Juniata  rises  in  the  Allegany  ridge,  and  empties  into  the 
Susquehannah  15  miles  above  Harrisburg.  Its  whole  length  is 
about  180  miles. 

The  western  branch  of  the  Susquehannah  heads  near  the  sources 
<of  the  Connemagh,  a  branch  ofthc  Allegany,  and  is  the  only  river 
that  breaks  through  all  the  mountains,  it  runs  about  290  miles, 
and  falls  into  the  Susquehannah  at  Northumberland. 

The  chief  branches  of  the  Allegany  are  French  creei:,,  which 
beads  near  lake  Erie,  and  empties  at  Franklin  ;  Toby's  creeky  which 
runs  VV.  S.  W.  about  70  miles,  and  is  boatabie  nearly  to  its  soiuce  ; 
Sandy  lick,  a  little  below  ;  and  the  Kiakemaniias^  whose  most  dis- 
tant source,  Stoney  creek,  heads  in  the  Allegany  ridge  near  the 
waters  of  the  Yohiegany,  and  running  N.  receives  the  Little  Con- 
nemagh. 

The  several  branches  of  the  Yohiogany  river  rise  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Allegany  mountains.  After  ruiming  a  short  distance, 
they  unite  and  form  a  large  beautiful  river,  which,  in  passing  some 
of  the  most  western  ridges  of  the  mountains,  precipitates  itself 
over  a  level  ledge  of  rocks,  lying  nearly  at  right  angles  to  the 
course  of  the  river.  These  falls,  called  the  Ohiupyle  ialls,  are  about 
30  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  and  the  river  is  perhaps  80  yards 
wide.  The  river  at  this  place  runs  to  the  southwest,  but  presently 
•winds  round  to  the  northwest,  and,  continuing  this  course  for  30  or 
40  miles,  it  loses  its  name  by  uniting  with  the  Monongahela,  which 
comes  from  the  southward,  and  contains,  perhaps,  twice  as  much 
water.  These  united  streams,  shortly  after  their  junction,  mingle 
with  the  waters  of  the  Allegany  at  Pittsburg,  and  together  form  the 
grand  river  Ohio. 

Siva7n/is.  Great  swamp  liesbetweein  Northampton  and  Luzerne 
counties  ;  and  Buffalo  swamp  near  the  source  of  the  west  branch 
of  the  Susquehannah.  These  swamps  are  covered  with  beech  and 
xnaple,  and  make  good  farm  land. 

Mountains.  The  mountains  of  Pennsylvania  all  belong  to  the 
great  Allegany  range.  The  principal  ridges  in  this  range,  in  Penn- 
sylvania, are  the  Kiccatinny,  or  Blue  mountains,  which  pass  north 
of  Nazareth  in  Northampton  county,  and  pursute  a  southwest 
course,  across  the  Lehigh,  through  Dauphin  county,  just  above 
Harrisburg,  thence,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Susquehannah,  through 
Cumberland  and  Franklin  counties.  Back  of  these,  and  nearly 
parallel  with  them,  are  Peter's,  Tuscarora.,  and  A''esco/iek  moun- 
tains,  on  the  east  of  the  Susquehannah  ;  and  on  the  west,  Share-' 
■man's  hills^  Sideling  hills^  Ragged,  Great  Warrior,  Mvit's,  and  Will's 
mountains  ;  then  the  great  Allegany  ridge,  which  being  the  larg- 
est, gives  its  name  to  the  whole  range  ;  west  of  this,  are  the  Ches- 
nut  ridges.  Between  the  Juniata  and  the  west  branch  of  the  Sus- 
quehannah are  Jacks,  Tussys,  JVittiny,  and  Bald  Eagle  mountains. 

Mineralogy.  Iron  ore  is  distributed  in  considerable  quantities 
through  the  state.  A  valuable  lead  mine  has  been  discovered  on 
Perkiomen  creek,  near  the  Schuylkill.     Coal  is  found  in  great 


19$ 


OHI©. 


abunclance  on  the  Susqiiebannah  ;  particularly,  tiear  Wyoming'^ 
At  the  head  of  the  wtsteru  brai.ch,  is  an  <  xttrsivi  btci,  vhic!^ 
stretches  over  the  country  suuH  westward ly,  so  as  to  be  ioui.d  in 
the  greatest  plenty  about  Pittsburg.  It  is  also  found  near  the 
sources  of  the  Lehigh  and  the  Schuylkill. 


OHIO. 

Extent.  THIS  state  lies  between  lat.  38  10  and  42'  N.  and  be<. 
tween  Ion.  80  30  and  85  45  W.  It  is  2((0  miles  long  and  as  many 
broad,  containing,  exclusive  of  the  waters  of  lakes  Erie  and  San* 
dusky,  39,128  square  miles,  equal  to  25,043,637  acres. 

Boundarits.  Bounded  E.  by  Pennsylvania  :  S.  by  the  Ohio  riv- 
er, which  coasts  the  state  for  466  miles  :  VV.  by  the  Indiana  terri- 
tory, from  which  it  is  divided  by  a  line  drawn  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Great  Miami  river  due  north,  nearly  to  the  parallel  of  42°  N. 
lat. :  N.  by  Michigan  territory  and  lake  Erie,  from  the  former  of 
which  it  is  divided  by  an  east  and  west  line,  drawn  through  the 
southerly  extremity  of  lake  Michigan,  and  intersecting  the  territo- 
rial line  in  lake  Erie. 

J^ame.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  Ohio  river,  which  forms 
its  southern  boundary. 

Divisions.     Ohio  is  divided  into  36  counties  and  320  townships  s 


Counties. 

No.  of 

Population 

Counties.      No. of 

Population 

towns. 

in  1810. 

towns. 

in  1810. 

Adams 

9 

9,434 

Jefferson 

15 

17,260 

Athens 

4 

2,791 

Knox 

5 

3,149 

Belmont 

11 

11,097 

Licking 

7 

3,853 

Butler 

9 

11,J50 

Madison 

6 

1,603 

Cayahoga 

4 

1,459 

Miami 

6 

3.941 

Champaign 

9 

6,303 

Montgomery 

7 

7,722 

Clermont 

8 

9,965 

Muskingum 

U 

IO-C'36 

Clhiton 

3 

2.674 

Pickaway 

10 

7.124 

Columbiana 

17 

10.878 

Portage 

9 

2,995 

Delaware 

7 

2,000 

Pieble 

7 

3,304 

Fairfield 

15 

11.361 

Ross 

16 

15,M4 

!Fayetie 

4 

1,854 

Srioto 

9 

3,399 

pjanklin 

8 

3,486 

Stark 

7 

2,734 

Gallia 

12 

4,181 

Trumbull 

19 

8,671 

Gtauga 

8 

2,917 

Tuscaiawa 

8 

3,045 

Gut  riiscy 

9 

3.051 

Warren 

5 

9,925 

Grtei» 

6 

5.870 

Washington 

12 

5,991 

Hamilton 
Jlighland 

11 
7 

15,258 
5,766 

Total  36 

320 

230,760 

For  judicial  purposes  the  state  is  divided  into  three  circuits. 

Original  Populaiion.  Previous  to  the  settlement  by  the  whites, 
several  Indian  tribes  resided  and  hunted  here.  The  Delawares, 
tetwcen  the  Ohio  and  lake  Erie,  the  S/iaivanetSy  on  the  Scioto,  the 
WiyandotiSi  Mohickons,  Coghnanvagasy  near  the  Sandusky,  and  ^be 


emo.  isr 

Twiffhtwees,  on  the  river  Miami.  At  the  close  of  the  revolutiona- 
ry war,  ihese  iribts  togethei  were  reckoned  to  contain  1450  figlit- 
iing  men.* 

History.    The  original  charter  of  Connecticut  embraced  a  larp^e 

section  of  Ohio.     In  1786,  Connecticut  ceded  to  the  United  Slates 

all  her  charter  claims  west  of  Pennsylvania,  reserving  oiily  a  uact 

of  the  width  of  the  state  of  Connecticut,  and   120  vuiics  iji  length, 

'  containing  nearly  4  millions  of  acres. 

In  1787  the  settlement  of  this  territory  was  begun  by  the  Oiiio 
and  other  companies  Tlie  same  year,  by  an  ordinance  of  cont^ress, 
it  was  erected  (together  with  tiie  present  territories  of  Mic:ii.u;an, 
!^ilinois,  and  Indiana)  into  one  district,  called  the  northwt stein  tir- 
ritory,  for  the  purposes  of  a  temporary  government  By  the  same 
ordinance  it  was  provided  that  congress  should  appoint  a  f^oveinor 
and  secretary  of  the  new  district. 

Early  in  the  year  1802  Ohio  was  detached  from  the  remaining 
part  of  tlie  northwest  territory,  and  erected  into  a  slat*.-  ;  and, 
shortly  after,  their  present  constitution  was  fiamed  and  adopted. 
Congress  reserved  the  right  of  annexing  to  tiiis  state  the  Michigan 
territory,  should  it  hereafter  be  thought  expedient. 

Pofiulation.  The  number  of  inhal;itaius  in  this  stale  in  the  year 
1800  was  42,179,  in  1803,  76,000,  in  1810,  230,760.  The  items  of 
this  enumeration  were  as  follow  ; 

males.  females.  total. 

Under  1 6  years  of  age         64,742  6i,06l  125,803 

Between  16  and  45  -42,950  39,426  82,376 

f  5  and  upwards  1 1,965  8,717  20,682 


Total    119,657  109,204  2'^8.86l 

The  blacks,  who  are  not  included  in  this  table,  amoynt  to  1899. 

This  state  is  entitled  to  6  representatives  in  congress. 

Militia.  In  the  year  I8t  8  the  militia  amounted  to  15,351  men. 
The  number  of  males  between  16  and  45,  according  to  the  census 
of  1810,  was  42,950. 

Government.  The  legislative  authority  of  this  state  is  vested  in 
a  general  assen^bly,  consisiing  of  a  senate,  to  be  cliosen  bienninliy, 
and  a  house  of  representatives,  to  be  chosen  annually,  both  by  the 
people ;  the  representatives  to  be  proportioned  by  law  from  time 
to  lime,  to  the  population.  The  senators  are  to  be  divided  into  two 
classes  by  lot,  the  seats  of  the  first  class  to  be  vacated  at  tlie  expi- 
ration of  one  year ;  of  the  second  at  the  expiration  of  the  second 
year,  so  that  one  half  are  to  be  annually  cliosen.  The  house  of  rep- 
resentatives have  the  power  of  instituting  impeachments,  which  are 
to  be  tried  by  the  senate. 

The  supreme  executive  power  is  vested  in  a  governor,  to  be 
chosen  biennially,  by  the  people.  He  is  eligible  only  6  years  in  any 
term  of  8  years. 

The  judiciary  power  is  vested  in  a  supreme  court,  in  courts  of 
comnioj)  pleas  in  each  county,  and  justices  of  the  peace,     Thf 

*  HutcbJna, 


£98  OHIO. 

jxidges  of  the  supiTme  and  county  courts  are  to  be  appointed  by. a 
ioint  ballot  of  the  two  houses  of  assembly,  to  hold  their  offices  for 

7  years. 

«  In  all  elections,  all  white  males,  above  the  age  of  21  years,  hav- 
ing resided  in  the  state  one  year  next  preceding  the  election,  and 
^vho  have  paid  or  are  char,u;ed  with  a  state  or  county  tax,  shall  enjr 
joy  the  right  of  an  elector,"  in  the  district  where  he  actually  re- 
sides at  the  time  of  the  elections. 

Tlie  constitution  closes  with  a  declaration  of  rights,  consisting 
of  28  articles. 

Chief  Totvns.  Marietta  is  a  handsome  healthy  town  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Ohio  river,  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Muskin>= 
gum.  It  is  ccmmodiously  laid  out,  with  spacious  streets  intersect- 
ing  each  other  at  right  angles,  into  1000  house  lots  of  90  feet  iu 
front  by  180,  and  open  squares,  reserved  for  convenience  and  orna- 
ment. It  has  a  gaol,  courthouse,  and  academy.  The  number  o^ 
inhabitants  is  1403.     Lat.  39   24  21  N. 

Chilicothe,  the  seat  of  government,  is  situated  on  the  west  side 
cf  Scioto  river,  above  100  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  contains  a  gaol^ 
a  state  house,  a  Presbyterian  church,  and  1369  inhabitants.  Tlie 
Scioto  is  beatable  40  miles  above  CliiUcothe. 

Cincinnati  stands  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Ohio,  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Licking  river.  It  contains  2540  inhabitants,  and  is  90 
miles  N.  W.  of  Lexington,  and  779  W.  by  S.  of  Philadelphia.  N» 
lat.  39  6,  W.  long.  85   44. 

LiteratvTc.  Out  of  the  lands  purchased  by  this  state  from  the 
Indians,  580,159  acres  have  been  appropiiated  toward  the  endow* 
ment  and  support  of  a  university,  an  academy,  and  schools,  and  for 
the  maintenance  of  public  worship 

An  act  establishing  a  university  passed  the  legislature  of  this 
state,  December  12,  1801.  It  is  named  the  "  Ohio  University,"* 
and  is  fixed  at  x\thens  on  the  Hockhocking,  40milesby  land,  from 
the  Ohio.  Its  funds  consist  of  lands  wiiich  are  thought  to  be  supe- 
rior in  point  of  pleasantness  and  lertiiity  to  any  iu  tlie  state.  Thfc 
corporation  to  consist  of  the  governor  of  the  state  for  the  time  be- 
ing, the  president,  and  not  more  than  15,  nor  less  than  10  trustees. 

Commerce.  The  exports  from  this  country  consist  of  flour,  corn, 
hemp,  flax,  cotton,  beef,  pork,  smoked  hams,  of  venison,  whiskey, 
peach  brandy,  oak  staves,  lumber,  ?^c.  raw  and  tanned  hides,  and 
peltry. 

The  building  of  ships  to  cany  the  produce  of  this  country  to 
market  is  a  business  lately  cunmienced,  and  is  increasing  with  the 
growth  of  this  country.  In  1802,  and  since,  a  number  of  vessels  of 
from  115  to  204  tons,  have  been  built  at  Marietta,  and  descended 
the  river  to  New-Orleans,  and  thence  proceeded  to  the  West-In- 
dies.  This  promises  in  future  to  be  an  increasing  and  lucrative 
branch  of  business  in  this  thriving  country. 

The  amount  of  the  value  of  exports  is  not  ascertained.  From 
the  whole  of  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  (embracing  as  I  sup- 
pose the  state  of  Ohio,  and  Indiana  territory,  and  exclusive  of  fort 


OHIO.  199 

Massac,  Detroit,  and  Michilimakinac)  there  were  exported  in  1804, 
to  the  value  of  1,959,423  dollars.* 

Face  of  the  Country.  A  great  part  of  this  country  is  agreeably 
tineven,  and  cannot  be  called  mountainous,  nor  even  hilly.  In  the 
upper  or  northern  parts  of  the  state,  hov/cver,  the  land  is  hilly,  and 
in  many  places  too  rough  to  admit  of  much  cultivation.  In  some 
parts,  also,  iii  the  country  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Oiiio  from  th« 
lakes,  there  are  tracts  extending  several  miles  so  flat,  that  the  wa- 
ter stands  till  midsummer,  rendering  it  waste  land. 

Soil  and  Productions.  The  ilat  or  bottom  lands  on  the  Ohio  are 
remarkably  fertile  ;  in  some  places  however  their  extent  is  small. 
A  small  proportion  of  the  hills  and  mountains  aie  unlit  for  agricul- 
tural purposes,  being  either  too  steep,  or  faced  with  rocks. 

Very  little  waste  land  is  to  be  found  in  any  part  of  this  tract  of 
country.  The  hills  are  of  a  deep,  rich  soil,  covered  with  a  heavy 
growth  of  timber,  and  well  adapted  to  tiie  production  of  wheat,  rye, 
indigo,  tobacco,  &c. 

Rivers.  The  Ohio,  which  nearly  half  surrounds  this  state,!  has 
already  been  described. 

The  Muskingum,  (which  signifies  elA-'t^  eye)  is  a  gentle  river, 
confined  by  banks  so  high  as  to  prevent  its  overflowing.  It  is  150 
yards  wide  at  its  lonflucnce  with  the  Ohio,  180  miles  below  Pitts- 
burg, and  navigable  by  large  batteaux  and  barges  to  the  Three 
Legs ;  and  by  small  ones,  to  tlie  lake  at  its  head. 

The  Hock/wcking;  (which,  in  the  Delaware  tongae,  signifies(5o7y 
river)  is  navigable  for  large  boats  about  7*0  nules,  and  for  small 
ones  much  further.  ^ 

The  Scioto  opens  an  extensive  navigation.  It  is  passable  for 
large  barges  for  200  miles,  with  a  portage  of  only  4  miles  to  the 
Sandusky,  a  good  navigable  stream  that  falls  into  lake  Erie. 
Through  the  Sandusky  and  Scioto  lies  the  most  common  pass  from 
Canada  to  the  Ohio  and  Missisippi;  one  of  the  most  extensive  and 
useful  communications  that  are  to  be  found  in  any  country  The 
stream  of  the  Scioto  is  gentle,  and  no  where  broken  by  falls. 

The  Little  Miamii%  too  small  for  batteaux  navigation. 

The  Great  Miaitii,  jissereniet,  or  Rocky  river,  has  a  very  stony 
channel,  and  a  swift  stream,  but  no  falls. 

The  other  rivers  in  this  state  run  northerly  into  lake  Erie. 

Grand  river,  whose  mouth  is  about  70  yards  wide.  For  3  miles 
it  has  depth  of  water  for  vessels  of  any  size,  except  on  the  bar  at 
its  mouth,  which  has  only  8  feet  water.  At  particular  seasons  it  is 
boatablc  nearly  to  its  source. 

Cuyahoga,  ov  Cayuga,  sometimes  called  the  Great  river,  empties 
in  at  the  south  bank  of  lake  Erie,  40  miles  eastward  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Huron  ;  having  an  Indian  town  of  the  same  name  on  its  bank. 
It  is  navigable  tor  boats  ;  and  its  mouth  is  wide,  and  deep  enough 
to  receive  large  sloops  from  the  lake.  Near  this  are  the  celebrated 

•Report  of  Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 

f  The  Indians  call  the  Alltjraiiy  branch,  as  well  as  the  maijl  river,  Ohio,  and 
Af-peax  to  kn»vv  it  by  no  othejr  name^    Micftt, 


200  BilCHTGiVN  TERRITORY. 

tocks  which  project  over  the  lake.  Tiiey  are  several  miles  ifli 
lein^th  and  rise  40  or  50  feet  perpendicular  out  of  the  water. 

Sandu-iky  river  rises  near  a  braiicli  of  the  Great  Miaaii,  between 
which  is  a  portai^e  of  9  miles.  It  pursues  a  N.  E  course,  and 
4Bmplies  into  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Sandusky  bay. 

The  Miami  of  the  lafceft^  talis  into  the  S.  W.  corner  of  lake  Erie. 
A  southern  l)ran>;h  of  this  river  communicates  with  the  Great  Mi- 
ami, by  a  portatje  of  5  miles.  The  nortlicrn  branch  flows  from  a 
pond,  and  communicates  with  St.  Joseph's  river,  a  water  of  Michi- 
gan, by  a  portage  of  1 5  miles. 

Mintralogy.  On  the  banks  of  tiie  Hockhockingare  found  inex= 
Jiaustible  quarries  of  freestone  and  beds  of  iron  ore.  Beds  of  white 
and  b;uc  clay  suitablj  for  the  manufacture  of  glass,  crockery,  and 
earthern  w;acs,  Lave  also  been  found  here  in  some  few  instances. 
Red  boie  and  many  other  useful  fossils  have  been  observed  upon 
thfi  brancias  of  the  Hockhocking.  Minesof  pit  coal  are  inexhausti- 
ble from  Pittsbui  gl!  many  miles  down  the  river,  and  in  other  parts 
of  the  start  On  the  banks  of  the  Ohio  the  strata  of  stone  are  hor- 
izontaliy  tlLsposed.  There  are  valuable  salt  springs  on  the  Sr iotcJ 
river,  aliO  near  the  Muskingum,  and  on  the  military  tract,  which 
are  the  property  of  the  slate. 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY.* 

Boundaries  and  Extent.  THIS  territory  is  bounded  S.  by  the 
Stale  of  Ohio  and  the  Indiana  territory  ;  W.  by  lake  Michigan 
■which  separates  it  from  the  Uliuois  territory  ;  N.  and  E.  it  is  bound- 
ed by  U[)|)er  Canada,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  small  part 
of  lai>.c  Superior,  St.  Maiy's  river,  Huron  lake  and  river,  lake  St. 
Clair,  and  Detroit  river.  The  greatest  length  of  the  territoiy, 
from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.  is  500  miles,  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  it  is  300. 
The  number  of  bquare  miles,  both  of  land  and  water,  is  estimated 
at  150,000. 

Divisions.  The  territory  is  at  present  divided  into  four  districts. 
In  the  south  is  ti  •.  district  of  Erie  ;  next  lies  the  district  of  Detroit ; 
Mext  that  of  Hui'<  u  ;  and  in  the  north,  the  district  of  Michilimak- 
inac. 

History.  In  1' 67,  Lewis  XIV.  sent  a  party  of  soldiers  to  this 
territory  to  protect  the  French  fur  trader^).  The  soldiers,  between 
that  time  and  1683,  built  a  fort  at  Detroit,  and  another  at  Michili- 
makinac  ;  and  soon  extended  their  commerce  west  of  lake  Michi- 
gan to  the  Indians  on  the  Mississippi.  The  Iroquois,  however, 
steadily  opposed  their  progress.  Tne  French  government  neg- 
lected the  settlement,  arid  it  never  flourislad  as  a  colony.  The 
■war  of  1766  dispossessed  the  French  of  all  their  North-American 
possessioiis,  and,  among  the  rest  of  this  territory.     It  remained  in 

*  The  author  is  indebted  to  his  excellency  governor  Hufct  fof  the  infornia« 
tloa  comaiaed  in  the  lullowing  account  of  tbij  territory. 


Michigan  xERRixdRY.  .  m 

&  neglected  state  in  the  hands  of  the  British,  till  the  peace  of  1783 
gave  it  over  to  the  United  States,  and  a  governor  was  appointed  in 
July,  1787,  for  all  the  territory  N.  W.  of  the  Ohio.  In  1796,  the 
fort  of  Detroit  was  ceded  by  the  English  to  the  United  States,  a- 
greeably  to  treaty  ;  and  this  fine  peninsula  was  formed  into  a  coun- 
ty, called  the  county  of  Wayne. 

In  1805,  it  received  the  name  of  the  Michigan  territory,  wass 
formed  into  a  distinct  government,  and  a  governor  appointed  over 
it.   In  the  summer  of  1812,  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  British,  who  - 
are  still  (July  1813)  in  possession  of  it. 

Religion.  The  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  country 
are  Catholics.  The  Protestants  as  yat  have  no  settled  minister, 
though  they  are  very  desirous  of  getting  one.  The  missionaries  of 
the  Methodists,  who  have  visited  this  country  for  some  years  back^ 
have  made  many  converts  among  the  lower  orders  of  people. 

Government.  Before  its  capture,  the  legislative  power  was 
vested  in  a  governor  and  a  supreme  court,  composed  of  three 
judges,  all  appointed  by  the  president  of  the  United  States.  The 
executive  power  was  vested  in  the  governor  ;  and  the  judicial  in 
the  three  judges,  and  such  civil  magistrates  in  the  various  districts 
as  the  governor  shall  appoint. 

PopulaUon.     The  number  of  inhabitants  was  in  the  year 


{whites      534 1  f  whites       4,618") 

slaves  3  l55l  1810^  slaves  24  I 

free  blacks  1 3  J  t  f'"^^  blacks  1 20  J 


4762 


The  items  of  the  census  of  1810  were  as  follows  : 

males.        females,  total  whites.. 

Under  16                                           1151             972  2123 

between  16  and  45                            1346             679  2025 

45  and  upwards                                    340              130  470 

2837  1781  4618 

Of  these  120  were  free  blacks,  and  24  slaves. 

Besides  these  there  were  about  150  persons  employed  in  the  In- 
dian fur  trade. 

Militia.  The  militia  consisted  of  two  regiments,  each  contain- 
ing 8  companies  ;  a  legionary  corps,  consisting  of  four  companies, 
one  of  cavalry,  one  of  mfanlry,  one  of  artillery,  and  one  of  riflemen  j 
a  battalion,  consisting  of  four  companies  of  infantry  ;  ar^  a  corps  at 
;Michilin)akinac  of  two  companies. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  late  immigrants  have  all  the  com"* 
mon  characteristics  of  new  settlers.  The  descendants  of  the  origf- 
inal  French  settlers  employed  in  the  fur  trade,  are  sunk  in  a  de- 
graded and  miserable  state,  occasioned  by  the  nature  of  their  em- 
ployment, and  associating  with  Indians. 

Toivns.  Detroit  stands  on  Detroit  river,  18  miles  N.  of  lake 
Erie,  and  10  o.  of  lake  St.  Clair.  The  old  town  was  wholly  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1805.  The  new  town  is  well  laid  out  ;  the  streets 
cross  each  other  at  I'ight  angles,  and  the  situation  is  pleasant.  It 
tontained  in  1810,  including  the  garrisonj  770  inhabitants,  and  80 
S6 


203'  MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 

dwelling  houses.  The  fort  is  of  an  oblong  figure,  built  with  stock*' 
ades,  and  completely  commands  the  garrison. 

Inland  Navigation.  Three  of  the  largest  lakes  border  on  this 
territory,  and  it  is  bounded  on  two  sides,  and  one  end,  wholly  by 
navigable  waters. 

Manufactures.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  manufactures  in 
this  ten-itory  in  1810 


Sides  of  leather 

2720 

Pounds  of  candles 

6500 

Saddles 

60 

Yards  ofwoollen  cloth 

2405 

Hats 

600 

Yards  of  flax  stuffs 

1195 

Gallons  of  whiskey 

]  5,400 

Yards  of  hemp  mixed 

20 

Gallons  of  brandy 

1000 

Barrels  of  cider 

1500 

Pounds  of  soap 

37,000 

Commerce.  Detroit  and  Michilimakinac  are  both  ports  of  entry 
in  this  tei-ritory.  The  exports  from  the  former,  in  1810,  amounted 
to  g3,l  15,  of  which  only  S44  were  of  foreign  produce.  No  returns 
were  received  from  the  port  oi  Michiliraakinac.  The  state  of  Ohio 
furnishes  this  country  with  beef,  pork,  whiskey,  cheese,  and  butter. 
Climate.  The  climate  is  cold  and  healthy.  Winter  sets  in 
aiout  the  middle  of  November,  and  lasts  till  the  middle  of  March, 
without  much  variation.  Very  little  snow  falls  ;  but  the  ice,  on 
the  rivers  and  borders  of  the  lakes,  is  always  good  for  travelling, 
through  the  winter.  The  fever  and  ague  and  goiters  are  the  com- 
mon diseases  of  the  territory. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  general  face  of  the  country  is  flat. 
Nothing  like  a  mountain  is  knowr^  The  eastern  shore  of  lr.ke 
Michigan  has  a  range  of  highlands  of  considerable  extent.  It  com- 
mences about  100  miles  S.  of  Michilimakinac,  and  reaches  south- 
ward upwards  of  50  miles.  They  are  mere  sand  hills  fronting  per- 
pendicularly on  the  lake,  and  are  some  of  them  300  feet  high. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  is  generally  rich.  It  is  estimat- 
ed that  \ipwards  of  20,000,000  acres  of  this  territory  are  excellent. 
The  Indian  title  to  8,000,000  is  extinguished,  of  which  200,000 
have  been  purchased  by,  and  are  secured  to,  individuals  :  the  re- 
mainder belongs  to  the  United  States.  The  agricultural  produc- 
tions, in  1810,  were  20,000  bushels  of  apples,  10,000  of  maize, 
12,000  of  wheat,  8000  of  oats,  100  of  barley,  1308  of  buckwheat, 
12,540  of  potatoes,  3024  of  turnips,  1000  of  peas,  and  1500  barrels 
of  cider. 

Ri-oers.  The  St.  Mary's  is  the  outlet  of  lake  Superior.  At  the 
distance  of  22  miles  from  that  lake  are  the  straits  and  falls  of  St. 
Mary's.  Here  the  river  is  less  than  a  mile  wide,  and  falls,  in  ~  of- 
a  mile,  25  feet.  Boats  can  pass  down  safely  in  the  centre  of  the 
falls,  but  their  common  passage  is  along  the  shore.  Below  the 
falls,  the  river  widens,  and  is  in  some  places  10,  in  others  20,  miles 
wide.  It  is  filled  with  beautiful  and  fertile  islands.  Its  length  is 
nearly  70  miles. 

The  St.  Clair  is  the  outlet  of  lake  Huron,  and  runs  nearly  S.  40 
miles.  It  is  generally  f  of  a  mile  wide.  The  land  along  the  shore 
is  low.  It  is  navigable  for  the  largest  vessels,  except  at  its  dis- 
charge into  lake  St.  Clair,  where  there  is  a  bar  of  sand  with  6i  feet 
of  water.  i 


INDIANA  TERRITORY.  3^*3 

■T)etroit  viver  is  27  miles  long,  and  runs  in  a  S.  W.  direction  12 
railes,  and  thence  due  S.  15  to  lake  Erie.  It  is  navigable  for  the 
largest  ships,  and  is  generally  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half,  .and 
in  some  places  three  miles,  broad. 

The  Huron  rises  in  the  country  west  of  lake  St.  Clair,  and  run- 
ning eastwardly  60  or  70  miles,  falls  into  that  lake,  30  miles  N. 
from  Detroit.  It  is  navigable  only  for  boats.  The  town  of  Gaud- 
enhutten  is  on  this  river,  planted  by  the  Moravian  brethren. 

The  Saganau  is  30  miles  long,  empties  into  the  bottom  of  Saga- 
nau  bay,  and  is  navigable  only  for  boats. 

The  Rouge  rises  in  the  country  W.  of  Detroit,  and,  running 
eastwardly  60  miles,  falls -into  Detroit  river,  6  miles  below  the 
town.  It  is  generally  100  feet  wide.  The  largest  vessels  of  the 
lake  find  a  safe  and  convenient  winter  harbor  5  miles  up  this  river. 
It  is  navigable  50  or  60  miles  for  boats. 

The  Raisin  runs  in  a  S.  E.  direction  about  70  miles,  and  falls  in- 
to lake  Erie  15  miles  from  Detroit  river. 

The  Huron  of  Erie,  rises  near  the  source  of  the  St.  Joseph  and 
after  a  course  of  100  miles  S.  E.  empties  into  lake  Erie. 

The  St.  Joseph  is  extremely  crooked,  and,  winding  westward 
more  than  200  miles,  falls  into  lake  Michigan,  near  its  southern 
extremity.  It  is  navigable  for  boats  almost  the  whole  distancCj 
but  not  at  all  for  large  vessels. 

Jjokes.  More  than  half  of  Michigan,  half  of  Huron  and  St.  Clair, 
a  part  of  Superior,  and  probably  a  part  of  Erie,  belong  to  this  ter- 
ritory. 

Jslafids.  The  island  Michilimakinac  lies  between  Michigan 
and  Huron,  and  is  ,7  miles  in  circumference.  The  ground  on  which 
the  fort  stands  is  150  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  and  100  yards 
from  the  shore.  The  fort  is  neatly  built,  and  exhibits  a  beautiful 
appearance  from  the  water.  The  village  is  on  the  shore  at  the 
right  of  the  fort,  and  consists  of  about  30  houses.  The  harbor  is 
deep  and  safe.  On  the  N.  E.  side  of  the  island,  near  the  shore, 
and  80  feet  above  the  lake,  is  an  arched  rock.  The  arch  is  20  feet 
in  diameter,  at  the  top,  and  30  at  the  base.  The  climate  is  cold 
but  healthy.  The  winter  lasts  for  5  months  with  unabated  rigor. 
This  island  is  still  a  place  of  rendezvous  for  the  N.  W.  traders., 
their  clerks  and  servants.  They  generally  assemble  here  in  June 
and  July,  often  to  the  number  of  ,£00.  There  are  numerous  other 
islands  in  the  lakes  and  rivers. 


INDIANA  TERRITORY. 

Extent.  THIS  territory  lies  between  lat.  37  45  and  41  50  N. 
and  between  82  42  and  85  45  W.  Ion.  Its  average  Ictgth  is  about 
370  miles,  and  its  average  breadth  about  130. 

Boundaries.     E.  by  the  State  of  Ohio  :*    S.  by  the  Ohio  river, 

*  It  is  not  yet  ascertained  whether  Michigan  territory  does  not  make  a  par*^ 
of  the  northeastern  and  eastern  bcundnry. 


204  INDIANA  TERRITORY. 

which  coasts  the  territory  for  525  miles  and  separates  it  from  Ken- 
tucky :  W.  for  213  miles,  by  the  Missisippi,  which  divides  it  from 
Upper  Louisiana  :  N.  W.  by  the  Illinois,  which  divides  it  from 
Illinois  territory  :  and  N.  for  a  small  distance,  by  lake  Michigan. 

Divisions.     This  territory  is  divided  into  3  counties  and  27  town- 
ships. 

Counties  No.  of  towns.         No,  ofinh.  Chief  towns. 

Dearborn  9  7310 

Clark  6  5670  Clarkesville 

Harrison  3  3595  Hariison 

K.nox  9  7945  St.  Vincennes 


Total     27  24,520 

Original  Po/iulation.  The  Kickapoos,  Pyankeshaws,  Musqui- 
tons,  Ouiatanons,  and  Twigtwees  inhabited  this  country,  and,  in 
1780,  had  together  about  1250  warriors.  The  Delawares  have 
since  x-esided  here. 

History.  This  territory,  till  January,  1801,  formed  a  part  of  the 
Northwestern  territory,  when  it  was  erected  by  Congress  into  a 
territorial  government  with  usual  powers  and  privileges. 

On  the  7th  Nov.  1811,  a  bloody  battle  was  fought  in  this  territo= 
Ty,  at  Tippecanoe,  upwards  of  100  miles  above  Vincennes,  between 
the  troops  of  the  United  States  and  the  Indians,  under  the  influence 
nnd  command  of  the  Prophet,  a  superstitious,  designing,  infatuated 
Indian. 

Pofiulation.     This  territory  contained  in 

{4577  whites"!  ("23,890  whitesl 

135  slaves  14875  1810-j        257  slaves  [.24,520 

165  free  bl.  J  (^       393  free bl.  J 

Chief  Town.  Vincennes,  the  capital,  stands  on  the  bank  of  the 
"Wabash,  150  miles  from  its  mouth,  in  lat.  33°  N.  The  township 
contains  893  inhabitants,  and  is  743  miles  from  Washington.  The 
ibrt  stands  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Wabash  river. 

Militia.  In  1808,  the  militia  of  this  territory  (which  then  em- 
braced that  of  Illinois)  was  2057.  The  number  of  males  between 
16  and  45,  is  4600,  the  greater  part  of  whom  are  capable  of  beai'- 
ing  arms. 

Inland  A'avigation.  The  communication  between  Detroit,  and 
the  Illinois  and  Ohio  countries,  is  up  Miami  river,  to  Miami  vil- 
lage, thence  by  land  9  miles,  when  the  rivers  are  high,  and  from 
18  to  30,  when  they  are  low,  through  a  level  country  to  the  Wa- 
bash, and  through  the  various  branches  of  the  Wabash  to  the  place 
of  destination. 

Commerce.  The  commerce  of  this  territory  centres  at  Vin- 
cennes. The  merchants  bring  their  goods  from  Canada,  down  the 
Wabash,  from  Orleans  up  the  Missisippi,  and  from  the  eastern 
states  dowi»  the  Ohio,  and  up  the  Wabash. 

Climate,  Face  of  the  Country,  Soil  and  Froductions.  These 
nearly  resemble  those  of  Ohio. 

Rivers.  The  W.abash  empties  into  the  Ohio,  by  a  mouth  270 
•fO-rds  wide,  887  miles  below  Pittsburgh.    In  the  spring,  summary 


ILLINOIS  TERRITORY.  205 

and  autumn,  it  is  passable  with  batteaux  drawing;  3  feet  water,  412 
miles,  to  Ouiatanon  ;  and  for  large  canoes  197  miles  farther,  to  the 
Miami  carryini?  place,  9  miles  from  Miami  village  on  Miami  riv- 
er, which  empties,  into  the  southwest  part  of  lake  Erie. 

White  river  is  one  of  the  largest  tributaries  of  the  Wabash.  It 
comes  in  from  the  N.  E.  20  miles  below  Vincennes. 

The  Theakiki  and  Plein  rivers,  which  unite  below  lake  Dupatre, 
and  form  the  Illinois  river,  are  witliin  this  territory.  White  Water 
river,  which  empties  into  the  Ohio,  at  Cincinnati,  is  also  a  water  of 
this  territory. 

Mineralogy.  A  silver  mine  has  been  discovered  about  28  mi!e$ 
above  Ouiatanon,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Wabash.  Salt  springs, 
lime, .and  free-stone,  blue,  yellow,  and  white  clay,  are  found  in 
plenty  upon  the  Wabash.  No  iron  ore  has  been  found  in  this  tract. 
On  Big  river,  and  all  the  streams  Avhich  run  into  the  Ohio,  is  found 
a  plenty  of  sea  coal. 

There  are  salt  springs  near  the  Wabash  river,  which  have  been 
ceded  to  the  United  States  by  certain  Indians,  at  which  an  estab- 
lishment of  salt  works  has  been  made,  under  the  patronage  of  Con» 
igress. 


ILLINOIS  TERRITORY, 

Extent.  ILLINOIS  territory  lies  between  lat.  37°  and  49  57^, 
and  between  long.  85  45  and  95  6  W.  Its  length  from  the  Ohio 
to  the  northern  line,  is  870  miles  ;  its  breadth  i"rom  the  head  of  the 
Missisippi  eastward,  to  the  western  boundary  of  Michigan  tcrrito-' 
ry  is  about  650  miles  ;  opposite  the  S.  end  of  lake  Michigan,  200 
miles  ;  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  150  miles  ;  and  on  the  Ohio 
50.  The  whole  tract  contains  about  200,000  square  miles,  exclu- 
sive of  the  waters  of  lakes  Superior  and  Michigan,  large  sections 
of  which  are  included  in  it. 

Boundaries.  The  northern  boundary  of  the  United  States,  which 
passes  through  lake  Superior,  separates  it  from  Upper  Canada  on 
the  N. :  on  the  E.  it  has  lake  Michigan,  and  the  Indiana  territory  : 
on  the  S.  E.  the  river  Illinois,  which  divides  it  from  Indiana  :  on 
the  S.  W.  and  W.  the  Missisippi,  which  separates  it  from  Louisia- 
na :  and  on  the  N.  W.  it  is  bounded  by  a  line  drawn  from  the  N. 
W.  corner  of  the  lake  of  the  Woods,  southwesterly  to  the  most 
r.orthern  source  of  the  Missisippi. 

Kame.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  river  Illinois,  an  Indian 
word,  signifying  a  man  of  full  age,  in  the  vigor  of  his  years.  Illi- 
nois river,  is  the  river  of  men.* 

Divisio'As.  That  part  of  this  territory  which  is  settled  by  v/hite 
people,  is  divided  into  two  counties,  viz.  St.  Clair  and  Randolph^ 
which  are  subdivided  into  12  townships. 

9  Hinnipen, 


£0S  ILLINOIS  TERRITORY. 

Countieg.  Towns.  Inhabitants. 

St.  Clair  9  5007 

Randolph  3  7275 


12  12,282 

Original  Population.  When  Carvar  visited  this  country  in  1 768> 
lie  found  the  Winnebagoes,  a  warlike  nation,  settled  on  Fox  river, 
where  they  still  inhabit ;  the  Saukies  on  the  upper  part  of  the  Ou- 
isconsin,  and  near  the  portage  ;  and  the  Ottigaumies  nearits  mouth, 
and  above  it  along  the  Missisippi.  The  Chepeways,  or,  as  M'Ken- 
Eic  calls  them,  the  Chepewyans,  then  possessed  the  country  S.  of 
lake  Superior,  that  on  the  Chepeway  and  a  great  extent  westward. 
The  Nandowessies,  then  also  occupied  a  large  tract  of  country,  S. 
W.  of  the  Missisippi,  in  Upper  Louisiana.  Whether  the  same  or 
different  tribes  now  occupy  this  country  we  are  unable  to  say.  it 
is,  however,  possessed  by  Indians,  and  they  still  have  a  title  to  the 
great  body  of  the  land.  In  1780,  there  were,  according  to  Hutch- 
ins,  1 2  tribes,  inhabiting  different  parts  of  this  territory,  viz.  the 
Kiciiapaos,  Pyankeshaws,  Musquiions,  Ouiatanons,  Kaskaskias, 
Piorias,  Mitchigamas,  Outtagomies,  Musquatons,  Muscotins,  Cut" 
tamacs,  and  Musquakeys.  These  tribes  together  were  estimated 
to  contain  5300  fighting  men. 

History.  Previous  to  the  year  1756,  the  French  had  settlements 
at  Kaskaskia,  Caliokia,  and  other  places  in  this  territory.  At  that 
time  they  were  dispossessed  by  the  British,  who  held  the  country 
till  the  revolution. 

It  was  a  part  of  the  Indiana  territory  till  1809,  when  it  was  erect- 
ed into  a  separate  government. 

Population.     The  civilized  population  of  this  territory  was  in 

{208  whit.-s"!  r  1 1,501  whites  1 

2  slaves  l2!5  1810-j         168  slaves  I  12,282 

5  free bl.  J  |_       613  free bl.  J 

The  items  of  the  census  of  1510  were  as  follows  ; 

males.  females.  total. 

Under  16  3211  2810  602  i 

Between  16  and  45  2613  1947  4560 

45  and  upwards-  556  364  920 


Total      6380  5121  11501 

Chief  Towns.  Kaskaskia  is  the  capital.  It  stands  on  the  south- 
"west  bank  of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  12  miles  from  its  mouth, 
hxxx.  not  half  that  distance  from  the  Missisippi,  in  a  direct  course. 
It  contains  about  100  houses,  many  of  them  well  built;  several  of 
stone  with  gardens,  and  large  lots  adjoining.  It  now  contains  622 
inliabitants. 

Cahokia  is  65  miles  north  of  Kaskaskia,  on  the  southern  side 
of  Cahokia  creek,  a  mile  from  its  mouth.  About  the  year  1774, 
this  village  contained  50  houses,  some  of  them  well  built,  and  300 
inhabitants,  with  80  negroes,  and  large  stocks  of  cattle,  swine,  fcc. 
3t  has  now  71 1  inhabitants. 

Goshen  is  the  capita!  of  St.  Clair  county,  and  has  1725  inhabit 
ants. 


ILLINOIS  TERRITORY.  207 

Miiitia.  There  are  2613  white  males,  between  16  and  45  years 
of  age.     Of  these  the  greater  part  are  capable  of  bearing  arms. 

Fort.  Fort  Massac  was  built  by  the  French  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Ohio,  near  its  mouth,  in  lat.  27  15,  1 1  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  Tennessee  river.  It  stands  on  a  high,  stony  bank.  The  stones 
appear  to  be  composed  of  ferruginous  matter  and  gravel.  A  con- 
siderable quantity  of  land,  both  above  and  below  the  fort,  is  annual- 
ly inundated.     A  number  of  troops  are  stationed  here.* 

Inland  Mavigation.  The  Illinois  furnishes  a  communication 
with  lake  Michigan,  by  the  Chicago,  between  which  and  the  IlU" 
nois  there  are  two  portages,  the  longest  of  which  does  not  exceed 
4  miles.  The  Thsakiki,  also,  another  branch  of  the  Illinois  river, 
extends  nearly  to  tlie  St.  Joseph,  which  empties  into  lake  Michi- 
gan. 

Commerce.  Fort  Massac  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  from  it  was  ex- 
ported, foreign  articles,  in  the  4th  quarter  of  1803,  to  the  value  of 
17,320  dollars. 

Face  of  the  Country.  Between  the  Kaskaskia  and  Illinois  riv- 
ers, which  are  84  miles  apart,  is  an  extensive  tract  of  level  rich 
land,  which  terminates  in  a  high  ridge,  about  15  miles  before  you 
reach  the  Illinois  river. 

Soil.  The  Illinois  river  is  bordered  by  <ine  meadows,  which  in 
some  places  extend  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  ;  and  the  soil  of  the 
country  generally  is  of  a  very  superior  quality. 

Rivers.  The  Missisippi,  Illinois,  and  Wabash  rivers  have  been 
desci'ibed. 

The  Ouisconsin  the  most  considerable  eastern  branch  of  the 
Missisippi  above  the  Illinois,  empties  in  lat.  43°.  The  Missisippi 
is  here  only  half  a  mile  wide  ;  but,  a  little  above  it  is  more  than  a 
mile. 

Fox  river  approaches  within  1  mile  o?  the  Ouisconsin.  Its 
course  thence  is  N.  E.  and  N.  about  1  30  miles,  to  the  N.  W.  cor- 
ner of  Winnebago  lake.  Across  this  lake  the  distance  is  12  miles, 
to  its  mouth  on  the  E.  end,  and  thence  to  the  head  of  Green  bay  in 
lake  Michigan,  is  35  miles,  the  first  30  of  wliich  are  full  of  rocks 
and  rapids,  and  the  last  five  are  smooth  and  navigable. 

This  is  the  nearest  point  of  communication  between  the  naviga- 
ble waters  of  the  gulfs  of  Stl.awrencc  and  Mexico.  Near  half 
the  way  across  the  carrying  place  is  a  inorass,  overgrown  v/ith  a 
species  of  long  grass ;  the  rest  is  a  plain,  covered  with  oak  and 
pine  trees. 

The  Chepeway  empties  into  the  Missisippi,  about  200  miles 
above  the  Ouisconsin,  just  at  the  mouth  of  what  is  called  lake  Pe- 
pin, wliich  is  merely  an  expansion  of  the  river. 

The  St.  Croix  falls  into  the  Missisippi  39  miles  above  lake  Pepin. 

The  St.  Louis,  a  considerable  stream,  is  the  most  remote  source 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  falls  into  lake  Superior  at  its  western  ex-' 
tremity,  in  lat.  46  45  N  ;  and  in  Ion.  92    10  ^V. 

Wijunipec  river  forms  a  part  of  the  northern  boundary  of  thi^ 
territory,  and  of  the  United  States. 

*  EHJcott^ 


203  ILLINOIS  TERRITORY. 

Dove  or  Pigeon  river  rises  in  the  height  of  land  between  lakes" 
Superior  and  Winnipec.  It  issues  fiom  Peche  lake,  a  small  pond 
3  miles  across,  which  borders  the  height  of  land,  and  pursues  an 
easterly  course  to  lake  Superior.  Between  Peche  lake  and  lake 
Superior,  a  distance  of  50  miles  in  the  route  pursued  by  the  fur 
traders,  He  Pietite,  Peche,  Rose,  Mountain,  Elk,  and  Outard  lakes. 
As  far  as  we  can  learn,  Dove  river  is  the  estuary  of  a  part  of  these 
small  lakes,  a  litle  north  of  the  grand  Portage. 

The  Sesenie  Qtiian  river  is  a  western  branch  of  the  Illinois, 
Ivhich  it  meets  about  180  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  40  yards  wide, 
and  boatable  60  miles,  bordered  by  good  land. 

The  Kaskaskia  and  Au  vase,  empty  into  the  Missisippi  from  the 
N.  E.  The  former  is  boaiable  about  1 30  miles,  the  latter  about 
60.  They  both  run  through  a  rich  country,  which  has  extensive 
jTieadoM's. 

The  Little  Wabash  is  a  tributary  to  tlie  Great  Wabash,  into 
■ivhich  it  falls  from  the  N.  W.  a  few  miles  above  its  mouth  in  the 
Ohio. 

JLakes.  Lakes  Michigan  and  Superior,  Rainy  lake,  and  the  lake 
of  the  Woods,  have  already  been  described.  They  lie  half  within 
this  territory. 

White  Bear  lake,  is  the  most  northern  source  of  the  Missisippi, 
and  lies  S.  W.  of  the  western  extremity  of  the  lake  of  the  Woods. 
It  is  about  60  miles  in  circumference,  and  its  form  is  nearly  round.* 

Red  lake,  the  source  of  Red  lake  river,  which  runs  v/cstward 
and  joins  Red  river,  a  tributary  of  lake  Winnipec,  is  about  the  size 
of  White  Bear  lake,  and  of  a  similar  form.  It  lies  a  little  N.  E.  of 
it,  and  S.  or  S.  W.  of  the  lake  of  the  Woods. 

Lake  Pepin  is  merely  an  expansion  of  the  Missisippi,  90  miles 
below  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  It  is  about  20  miles  long  from  S. 
E.  to  N.  W.  and  near  6  broad,  and  abounds  with  various  kinds  of 
fish. 

Winnebago  lake  is  15  miles  long  from  E.  to  W.  and  6  wide. 
At  the  S.  W.  corner,  it  receives  a  considerable  river,  called  Croc- 
odile river.  Its  situation  has  been  mentioned.  Great  numbers  of 
small  lakes  are  found  dispersed  in  the  country  between  the  Mis- 
sisippi and  lake  Superior. 

Illinois  lake,  through  which  the  river  of  this  name  passes,  is 
about  20  nulcs  long,  and  3  wide.  It  has  no  rocks,  shoals,  or  per* 
ceivable  current,  and  is  210  miles  from  the  Missisippi. 

Botany.  In  this  country  are  found  the  oak,  hiccory,  cedar,  mul- 
berry, &CC.  hops,  dying  drugs,  medical  plants  of  several  kinds,  and 
excellent  wild  grapes.  In  1769  the  French  settlers  made  110 
hogsheads  of  strong  wine  from  these  grapes.  On  the  banks  of  the 
river  Illinois  are  found  the  maple,  ash,  button  wood,  red  and  white 
cedar,  pine,  walnut,  cherry  tree,  peccan,  plum  tree,  birch,  Sec. 

Zoology.  The  banks  of  the  rivers  abound  with  buffalo,  deer,  elk, 
turkeys,  ducks,  teal,  geese,  swans,  cranes,  pelicans,  pheasants,  par-* 
tridges,  &c.  In  the  rivers  and  lakes  are  found  plenty  offish,  par«s 
ticularly  the  sturgeon  and  picannau. 

*  Carver, 


MARYLAND.  aos 

Mineralogy.  On  Mine  river,  a  western  branch  of  the  IlUnoiS) 
(which  it  receives  120  miles  from  its  mouth)  is,  according  to  re- 
port, a  rich  copper  mine.  On  the  banks  of  the  Ouisconsin,  are  ixn- 
mense  quantities  of  the  purest  lead  ore.  There  are  many  mines  of 
■Very  pure  copper  found  on  the  south  shore  of  lake  Superior.  There 
is  a  copper  mine  9  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Iron  river,  a  water  of 
Michigan  lake.  On  Middle  island,  19  leagues  N.  W.  of  Iron  riv- 
er, are  found  great  quantities  of  pure  copper. 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 


THE  second  grand  division  of  ^he  United  States,  comprehends 
Maryland  Tennessee 

Columbia  District  SQUth-Carolina 

Virginia  Georgia 

Kentucky  ,  Missisippi  Territory 

North-Carolina 
This  extensive  division  is  bounded  N.  by  Pennsylvania  and  the 
Ohio  river  ;  W.  by  the  Missisippi ;  S.  by  Florida  ;  E.  by  the  At- 
lantic ocean  and  Delaware  state.  It  is  intersected  in  a  N.  E.  and 
S.  W.  direction  by  the  range  of  Allegany  mountains,  which  give 
rise  to  many  noble  rivers,  which  fall  either  into  the  Atlantic  on  the 
E.  the  Missisippi  on  the  W.  or  the  gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  S. 

The  following  may  be  considered  as  the  principal  productions  of 
this  division  :  cotton,  tobacco,  rice,  wlieat,  corn,  tar,  pitch,  turpen- 
tine, hemp,  and  lumber. 

In  this  district  is  fixed  the  permanent  seat  for  the  geneii^l  gov- 
evnment. 


MARYLAND, 


Extent.  THE  northern  line  of  the  state  is  196  miles  long.  In 
the  broadest  part,  on  the  east  of  the  bay,  it  is  120  miles  wide.  In 
the  narrowest,  a  little  above  Hancocktovvn,  it  is  only  S  miles ;  at 
Cumberland  6  ;  and,  at  the  western  boundary,  40.  The  number  of 
square  miles  is  about  14,000,  of  which  about  one  fifth  is  water.  It 
lies  between  lat.  38°  and  39  44  N.  and  between  Ion.  75  10  and  79 
SOW. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  Pennsylvania  and  Delaware  ;  E. 
by  Delaware  and  the  Atlantic  ;  S.  W.  and  W.  by  Virginia. 

Divisions.     This  state  is  divided  into  19  counties,   11  of  which 
are  on  the  western,  and  8  on  the  eastern  shore  ©f  Chesepeak  bav, 
27  "  i  . 


210 


MARYLANr>, 


^ 


Counties. 

"Harford 

Baltimore 
Ann-Arundel 
Frederick 
Allegany 
Washington 
Montgonnery 
Prince  George 
Calvert 
Charles 
^St.  Mary'^s 


in  1790. 
14,976 
38,937 
22,598 
30,791 

4,809 
15,822 
18,003 
21,344 

8,652 
20,613 
15,544 


Population, 
in  1800. 
17,626 
59,030 
22,623 
31,523 

6,303 
18,650 
15,058 
21,185 

8,297 
18,172 
13,699 


in  1810. 
21,238 
75,810 
26,668 
34,437 

6,909 
18,730 
17,980 
20,589 

8,005 
20,245 
12,794 


Total  Western    212,089       233,166       263,425 


fCecil 
g   J  Kent 
«      Queen  Ann 
'^  J  Caroline 
11  Talbot 
I  Somerset 
Dorchester 
Worcester 


13,625 
12,836 
15,463 
9,506 
13,084 
15,610 
15,875 
11,640 


9,018 
11,771 

14,857 
9,226 
13,436 
17,358 
16,346 
16,370 


13,066 
11,450 
15,648 
9,453 
14,230 
17,195 
18,108 
16,971 


ehieftoy/nsi 

Bellair 

Baltimore 

Annapolis 

FredericktoWK 

Cumberland 

tlizabethtown 

Marlborough 
St.  Leonard 
Port  Tobacco 
LeonardstowrH' 


Elkton 
Chester 
Centrevilie 
Denton 
Easton 

Princess  Ann< 
Cambridge 
Snow  Hill- 


Total  Eastern     107,639        108,832        117,121 


:  Totalin  the  state  319,728       341,548       380,546 

JSPame.  Charles  I.  of  England  (in  his  patent  to  lord  Baltimorcj 
in  1632)  gave  the  name  of  Marylaiid  to  this  territory,  in  honor  of 
3iis  wife,  Henrietta  Maria,  daughter  of  Henry  the  great  of  France 
and  Navarre.     It  was  then  taken  from  Virginia. 

History.  This  territory  was  originzjly  included  in  the  patent  of 
the  South-Virginia  company,  and  considered  as  a  part  of  Virginia, 
till  June  20,  1 652,  when  the  patent  was  granted  to  Cecilius  Calvert, 
lord  of  Baltimore,  in  Ireland.  The  proprietor  offered  50  acres  in 
fee  to  every  emigrant,  and  gave  equal  privileges  to  all  classes  of 
Christians. 

In  1634,  the  first  colony,  consisting  of  200  Roman  Catholics, 
planted  itself  on  the  north  side  of  the  Potowmac,  at  a  place  called 
St.  Mary's.  The  first  legislature  was  convened  at  St.  Mary's  in 
1638,  which  divided  the  territory  into  baronies  and  manors,  and 
passed  a  variety  of  laws.  The  next  year  the  legislature  passed  a 
law  establishing  the  house  of  assembly. 

In  1642  a  colony  from  Maryland  took  possession  of  the  Schuyl- 
kill ;  but  were  immediately  dispossessed  by  the  Dutch  from  New- 
Netherlands.  Owing  to  the  intrigues  of  one  Claiborne,  the  prov= 
ince  was  this  year  engaged  in  a  calamitous  Indian  war. 

In  1645  Claiborne  raised  a  rebellion,  and  drove  Calvert  from  the 
province. 


MARYLAND.  gU 

The  constitulion  of  Maryland  was  settled  in  1650  ;  the  legisla- 
ture divided  into  two  houses  ;  and  the  province  into  thi'ee  couniies. 
Parliament  violently  assumed  the  government  in  1 652,  and  entrust- 
ed it  to  commissioners.  A  second  insurrection  took  place  in  1656, 
headed  by  one  Fendal ;  and  two  years  afterwards  the  commission- 
ers surrendered  to  him  the  government.  The  next  year  the  upper 
house  of  assembly  was  dissolved. 

The  government,  in  1662,  reverted  to  lord  Baltimore;  who  re- 
assumed  the  administration  and  established  a  mint. 

Tlie  assembly  encouraged  the  importation  ofnegro  slaves, in  1671. 

Maryland  resisted  the  encroachments  of  parliament  in  1769; 
and,  in  1775,  was  forward  in  promoting  the  revolution  ;  but  did  not 
sign  the  articles  of  confederation  till  17'81.  The  present  constitu- 
tion of  the  state  was  formed  in  August,  1776. 

Religion.  The  number  of  Episcopalian  churches  in  1811  was 
30,  and  of  clergymen  35.  The  Presbyterians  are  believed  to  be 
more  numerous.  The  Roman  Catholics  were  the  first  settlers  ;  and 
there  are  more  of  them  in  Maryland  than  in  all  the  other  states. 
The  other  denominations  are  Methodists,  German  Lutherans  and 
Calvinists,  Baptists,  Friends,  Mennonists,  Nicoliies,  and  Sweden- 
borgians. 

Government.  The  legislature  is  styled  the  general  assembly^  and 
consists  of  a  senate  and  house  of  delegates.  The  senate  is  chosen 
by  electors,  who  are  elected  by  the  freemen,  (on  the  first  Monday 
in  September)  every  fifth  year,  two  from  a  county  and  one  from 
each  of  the  cities  of  Annapolis  and  Baltimore.  The  electors  meet 
at  Annapolis,  a  fortnight  after  they  are  chosen  ;  and  elect,  by  bal- 
lot, 9  senators  from  the  western  shore,  and  6  from  the  eastei'n  ; 
who  hold  their  station  5  years.  They  must  be  25  years  of  age  ; 
have  resided  the  preceding  3  years  in  the  state ;  and  be  worth 
above  iOOO/.  The  delegates  are  chosen  annually  on  the  first  Mon- 
day in  October.  Four  are  sent  by  each  county ;  and  two  from 
eacli  of  the  two  cities.  They  must  be  2 1  years  of  age,  residents  in 
the  county,  or  city,  dui-ing  the  preceding  year,  and  worth  above 
500/.  The  assembly  meets  annually  on  the  first  Monday  in  No- 
vember. The  privilege  of  voting  is  possessed  by  all  white  per- 
sons, who  are  2 1  years  of  age,  and  have  paid  taxes.  The  governor 
is  chosen  annually,  on  the  second  Monday  in  November,  by  a  joint 
ballot  of  both  houses  j  and,  on  the  same  day,  an  executive  council 
of  5  persons  is  chosen  in  the  same  manner,  for  the  same  time  ; 
who  must  have  the  same  qualifications  as  senators.  The  governor 
must  be  25  years  of  age,  a  resident  the  preceding  5  years,  and 
worth  5000/.  of  which  1000/,  must  be  freehold  estate.  He  cannot 
be  chosen  but  3  years  successively. 

Fojiulation.     The  number  of  inhabitants  was  in  the  year 
r  208,649  whites  "J 
1790^  103,036  slaves  1319,728      1810^  II  1,502  slaves  J.380,546 
(_      8,043  free  bl.  J 

{216,326  whites^ 
105,635  slaves    1341,548* 
19,587  free  bh  J 


*  Exclusive  of  the  district  of  Columbia^ 


213  MARYLAND, 

Maryland  is  entitled  to  9  representatives  to  congress. 

In  the  two  first  national  enumerations  Maryland  was  the  6th  state 
in  point  of  population  ;  and,  in  the  third,  the  8th.  The  increase  of 
white  inhabitants  in  the  last  10  years  was  18,791,  or  8  per  cent,  and 
that  of  the  blacks,  20,207,  or  16Jj^  per  cent. 

Militia.  The  militia  of  this  state  amount  to  about  30,000,  con- 
sisting of  able  bodied  men,  between  18  and  43,  and  organized  in  the 
manner  they  are  in  the  other  states. 

Finances.  The  funds  of  Maryland  on  the  first  of  November, 
ISll,  amounted  to  §1,721,852. 

The  slate,  in  1804,  recovered,  in  the  court  of  chancery  in  Eng^ 
land,  a  claim,  amounting  to  about  §800,000.  Its  funds  are  so  large, 
that  no  state  tax  is  imposed  on  the  personal  or  landed  properly  of 
the  citizens. 

Manners  and  Custo7ns.  The  inhabitants,  except  in  the  populous 
towns,  live  on  their  plantations.  They  arc  made  up  of  various  na- 
tions of  many  different  religious  sentiments  ;  few  general  observa-» 
tions,  therefore,  of  a  characteristical  kind  will  apply.  They  ow^e  lit- 
tle money  as  a  state,  and  are  willing  and  able  to  discharge  their 
debts.  Their  credit  is  very  good  ;  and  although  they  have  so  great 
a  proportion  of  slaves,  and  possess  a  share  of  that  pride  that  ever 
grows  on  slavery,  yet  a  number  of  influential  gentlemen  have  evin- 
ced their  humanity  and  their  disposition  to  abolish  so  disreputable 
a  traffic,  by  forming  themselves  into  a  society  for  the  abolition  of 
negro  slavery. 

Literature.  There  are  three  college  in  this  state,  viz.  Washing- 
ton college,  in  Kent  county  ;  St.  John's  college,  at  Annapolis. 
These  two  colleges  are  well  endowed  and  flourishing,  and  consti- 
tute, "  The  University  of  Maryland."  The  French  Catholics  have 
a  college  at  Baltimore,  with  70  or  80  students. 

Washington  academy,  in  Somerset  county,  is  well  endowed. 

Provision  is  made  for  free  schools  in  most  of  the  counties  ; 
though  some  are  entirely  neglected,  and  yery  few  carried  on  with 
any  success. 

The  legislature  of  this  sate  has  lately  appropriated  g25,000  per 
annum  for  the  encouragement  and  support  of  schools. 

Chief  Toivna.  Baltimore  is  the  largest  towii  in  Maryland  ; 
and  the  third  in  popxilation,  and  the  fourth  in  commercial  import- 
ance, in  the  United  States.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  Patapsco  bay, 
which  sets  up  18  miles  N.  W.  from  the  Chesapeak.  The  situation 
of  the  town  is  low,  and  but  moderately  healthy.  A  creek  falls  into 
the  head  of  the  bay,  dividing  the  town  into  two  parts  ;  the  eastern 
and  smallest  of  which  is  called  the  Old  town.  Four  bridges  are 
thrown  over  this  creek.  Many  of  the  houses  are  well  built.  The 
population,  in  1790,  was  13,503;  in  1800,26,514;  and  in  1810,  in 
the  city  35,583,  of  whom  7686  were  blacks  ;  and  in  the  precinct? 
J0,972,  of  whom  2657  were  blacks  j  total  in  the  city  and  precincts 
46,555,  of  whom  36,212  were  whites,  and  10,343  blacks.  A  con- 
aide  rable  number  of  the  inhabitants  are  French  emigrants  from 
Cape  Fran9ois,  and  many  of  them  are  Europeans.  The  commerce 
of  Baltimore  is  very  extensive,  and  is  carried  on  with  all  parts  of 


MARYLAND.  213 

the  world.  The  exports  in  179  8,  amounted  to  more  than  S'-SiOOOjOOO; 
and  in  1805,  the  tons  of  shipping- were  72,210.  The  Bahimoie. 
bank  has  a  capital  of  S300,000.     Lat.  39   21  N.  lonsj.  77  4b  W. 

Annapolis  is  30  miles  S.  of  IJahimore,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Severn  river,  a  small  distance  from  its  mouth.  The  slatchouse  is 
a.  noble  edifice,  and  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  From  this 
point  the  streets  diverge  in  every  direction,  like  the  radii  of  a  cir- 
cle. 

Fredericktown  is  a  fine  flourishing  inland  town,  of  upwards  of 
300  houses,  built  principally  of  brick  and  stone,  and  mostly  on  one 
broad  street.  It  has  7  places  of  worship,  beside  other  public  build- 
ings. 

Elkton  is  situated  near  the  head  of  Chesapeak  bay,  on  a  small 
river,  which  bears  the  name  of  the  town.  It  enjoys  great  advanta- 
ges from  the  carrying  trade  between  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia. 
The  tide  waters  extend  to  this  town. 

Inland  JVa-oigation.  A  part  of  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeak  ca- 
nal is  to  be  in  Maryland.  The  canals  to  improve  the  Potowmac 
are  also  undertaken  by  a  company  incorporated  by  the  states  of 
Maryland  and  Virginia.  Chesapeak  bay  and  the  Susquehannah 
completely  divide  the  state  :  the  Potowmac  is  its  southwestern 
boundary,  and  has  been  rendered  navigable  to  the  Shenandoah  ;  so 
that  no  part  of  the  state  east  of  the  Blue  Pvidge  is  more  than  30 
miles  from  navigable  waters.  Many  of  the  creeks  and  arms  of  the 
Chesapeak  are  also  navigable  20  or  30  miles  into  the  country. 

Manufactures.  Wheat  is  manufactured  into  flour  in  Frederick 
county  (where  there  are  80  grist  mills)  to  a  great  extent.  Here 
are  also  two  glass  works,  two  iron  works,  two  furnaces,  two  paper 
mills,  and  400  stills,  which  make  vast  quantities  of  rye  whiskey  ; 
some  single  distilleries  produce  12,000  gallons  a  year. 

Commerce.  The  exports  from  Maryland,  in  1779,  amounted  to 
^16,299,609;  in  1804,  to  S9, 15  1,939  ;  and,  in  18  10,  to  86,489,018. 
Flour  is  the  staple  of  the  state.  Tobacco  is  also  a  most  important 
article.  The  other  exports  arc  pig  iron,  lumber,  maize  to  a  con- 
siderable amount,  and  beans,  pork,  and  ilax  seed  in  smaller  quan- 
tities. The  aggregate  tonnage  of  this  state,  in  1805,  was  108,040 
tons,  and  in  1810,  153,786. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  land,  in  the  counties  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  Chesapeak,  is  generally  level  and  low  ;  and,  in  many 
places  covered  with  stagnant  water.  On  the  western  shore,  tiie 
land,  between  the  bay  and  the  lowest  falls  of  the  rivers,  is  in  great 
part  level  and  free  from  stones.  From  these  falls  to  the  Blue 
Ridge,  the  country  is  successively  imeven,  hilly,  and  mountainous. 
It  continues  of  this  latter  description  thence  to  the  vi'cstern  limit  of 
the  state.  There  are,  however,  several  fine  valiles  between  the 
•western  mountains  along  the  course  of  the  Youhiogany. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  of  the  good  land  in  Maryland  is 
of  such  a  nature  and  quality  as  to  produce  from  12  to  16  bushels  of 
wheat,  or  from  20  to  30  bushels  of  Indian  corn  per  acre.  Ten 
bushels  of  wheat,  and  15  bushels  of  corn  per  acvv?  arc  the  annual 
average  crops  in  tlie  state  at  large. 


214  MARYLAND. 

Wheat  and  tobacco  are  the  staple  commocfilies-. 

Two  articles  are  said  to  be  peculiar  to  Maryland  ;  the  genuine 
ivhite  wheat  which  grows  in  Kent,  Queen  Ann's,  and  Talbot  coun- 
ties, on  the  eastern  shore,  and  which  degenerates  in  other  places ; 
and  the  bright  kite's  foot  tobacco,  which  is  produced  on  the  Patux- 
ent  below  ElkriuJge  in  Prince  George's  county. 

Rivers.  The  Potowmac  is  the  whole  southwestern  boundary  of 
Maryland.  The  Susquehannah  runs  in  the  state  about  16  miles, 
emptying  at  Havre  dc  Grace.  The  Youhiogany  flows  near  the 
western  line  of  the  state,  running  in  it  a  northerly  course  of  40 
miles.     These  have  already  been  described. 

The  Patuxcnt  rises  a  little  N.  of  the  parallel  of  Baltimore,  and 
about  30  miles  W.  of  that  town.  It  runs  S.  E.  and  S.  about  110 
miles,  to  the  Chesapeak,  emptying  between  Drum  and  Cedar 
points.  It  admits  vessels  of  250  tons  to  Nottingham,  46  miles,  and 
boats  to  Queen  Ann,  14  miles  farther. 

The  Patapsco  heads  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  and  runs 
S.  and  S.  E.  to  Elkridge  landing  ;  where  it  falls  down  a  moderate 
precipice,  and,  turning  eastwardly,  spreads  into  a  broad  stream,  like 
a  bay.  It  falls  into  Patapsco  bay,  at  Whetstone  point,  about  two 
miles  below  BaltiiTU)re,  and  is  navigable  to  Elkridge  landing,  eight 
miles. 

On  the  eastern  shore  the  Pocomoke  rises  in  Cypi'ess  swamp,  and 
runs.  S.  and  S.  W.  40  miles,  to  Pocomoke  bay. 

The  Wicomico  runs  S.  W.  about  2.0  miles. 

The  JVanticokc  rises  in  the  ridge  of  the  peninsula,  in  Dela>yare  ; 
and  runs  S.  S.  W.  25  miles  in  that  state,  and  20  in  Maryland.  It  is 
the  largest  river  between  the  two  bays. 

The  Chojitank  rises  on  the  border  of  the  same  state,  in  the  same 
ridgi',  and  runs  S.  by  W-  50  miles,  and  W.  by  N.  15.  It  is  a  broad 
navigable  stream. 

Chester  and  Sassafras  rivers,  flow  north  of  the  Choptank. 

Elk  river  rises  in  Chester  county,  Pennsylvania,  and  runs  E.  of 
S.  22  miles  to  Elkton,  where  it  receives  the  Little  Elk  from  the  N. 
W.  Thence  it  runs  S.  W.  13  miles  to  the  Chesapeak,  the  whole  of 
v/hich  it  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  12  feet  water. 

Bays.  Nearly  two  thirds  of  ihe  length  of  the  Chesapeak  lies  in 
Maryland.  The  creeks  connected  with  it  are  nothing  but  branches 
of  the  Chesapeak  from  10  to  20  miles  long,  with  a  little  stream  of 
fresh  water  flowing  into  the  head  of  each.  The  largest  of  these 
hays  on  the  western  shore  are  Patapsco  bay,  and  the  mouth  of  Pa- 
tuxcnt river. 

Moimiains.  The  various  ridges  of  the  Allegany  mountains  cross 
the  western  and  narrow  parts  of  this  state. 

Mineralogy.  Iron  ore,  of  an  excellent  quality  is  found  in  plenty 
in  many  parts  of  the  state.  Two  beds  of  coal  have  been  opened 
within  a  mile  of  the  city  of  Baltimore. 


DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA,  S15 


DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 

Extent.  THIS  (Ustrict  is  a  square  with  a  side  of  10  miles,  and 
of  course  contains  100  square  miles.  It  lies  on  both  sides  of  the 
Potowmac,  about  120  miles  from  its  mouth,  embracing  a  section  of 
that  river,  extending  from  the  southern  part  of  Alexandria,  to  a 
point  5  miles  above  Georgetown,  including  a  part  of  one  of  the  Po- 
towmac canals.  It  was  ceded  by  the  states  of  Maryland  and  Vir- 
ginia to  the  United  States,  in  1790  ;  and  was  accepted  by  congress- 
in  July  of  that  year.  Tliis  district  includes  the  towns  of  Washing- 
ton, Georgetown,  and  Alexandria. 

Divisions  and  Government.  The  district  is  divided  into  two 
counties  ;  the  county  of  Washington,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Po- 
towmac ;  and  the  county  of  Alexandria,  on  the  south  side.  In  the 
former,  the  laws  of  Maryland  are  continued  in  force  ;  in  the  latter, 
those  of  Virginia.  Congress  however  makes  what  laws  it  pleases 
for  both.  A  circuit  court  is  established  in  this  district,  consisting 
of  3  judges.  The  supreme  court  of  the  United  States  sits  at  Wash- 
ington, on  the  first  Monday  of  February  annually. 

Religion.  Presbyterians  and  Episcopalians  are  the  two  prevail- 
ing denominations  in  the  district.  There  are  also  here  Roman 
Catholics,  Methodists,  and  Baptists,  ail  of  whom  have  places  for 
public  worship. 

Population.  The  number  erf  inhabita^its  in  theT district  wrs,  in  the 
year 

{10,066  whites  1  f  16,079  whites") 

3,244  slaves     1 14,093  ISlO-j     5,395  slaves   124,023 

783  free  bl.  J  (_    2,549  free  bl.  J 

The  items  of  the  white  population  of  1810  were  as  follows  : 

males.  females.  total. 

Under  16  years  of  age  3,637  3,730  7,367 

From  16  to  45  3,627  3,387  7,0.14 

45  apd  upwards  §65  832  1,698 


Total     8,130  7,940  16,079 

Chief  Towns.  Washington  city  is  built  on  the  Maryland  side 
of  the  Potowmac,  on  a  point  of  land,  between  what  is  called  the 
Eastern  Branch  and  the  Potowmac.  Its  plan,  as  laid  out,  extend* 
nearly  4  miles  up  each  of  those  rivers.  It  coutaincd  in  1800,  3,210 
inhabitants,  in  1803,  4,353,  of  whom  940  were  people  of  colour, 
in  1810,  8,208,  of  whom  5,904  were  whites,  and  2,304  blacks.  le 
had,  in  1803,  880  houses,  about  one  half  of  brick  and  stone,  the  rest. 
of  wood.  These  buildings  are  hi  5  separate  divisions  or  villages  ; 
one  near  the  capitol,  one  near  the  navy  yard,  one  at  Greenleaf's 
point,  one  near  the  president's  house,  and  one  near  Georgetown. 
This  last  is  the  smallest,  and  that  at  GrceuleaPs  point  is  the  most 
solitary.  There  are  4  places  for  public  worship,  one  for  Presbyte- 
rians, one  for  Roman  Catholics,  one  for  Baptists,  and  one  for  Epis- 
copalians. During  the  session  of  congress  the  chaplains  are  per- 
mitted to  preach  ia  the  representatives'  room.    The  president's 


SI 6  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 

house  is  170  by  85  feef,  two  stories  high,  it  is  built  of  free  whi(3 
stone,  the  roof  covered  with  slate.  The  plan  of  the  capitol  is  to 
present,  when  completed,  a  front  of  362  feet,  but  only  the  N.  wing 
is  yet  erected.  The  public  offices  occupy  two  buildings,  each  about 
450  feet  from  the  president's  house,  having  a  front  of  120  feet,  two 
stories.  This  city  became  the  permanent  seat  of  the  national  gov- 
ernment in  1800.  Lat.  38  53  N.  long.  77  45  W.  from  Greenwich. 
Alex;vndria,  formerly  Bclhaven^  is  at  the  southern  corner  of 
the  district,  and  has  an  elevated  and  pleasant  situation.  It  is  built 
on  the  plan  of  Philadelphia.  Many  of  the  houses  are  handsome. 
Its  public  buildings  are  a  Presbyterian  church,  one,  also,  for  Epis- 
copalians, an  academy,  courthovse,  gaol,  and  bank.  It  contained^ 
in  1800,5,071  inhabitants,  and  in  1810,7,227.  Its  exports,  in  1810, 
amounted  to  S930,G34,  and  the  tonnage,  in  1807,  to  1 1,320  tons. 

Georgetown,  on  the  Maryland  side,  is  separated  by  Rock  creek 
from  the  city  of  Washington,  and  lies  4  miles  from  the  capitol  and 
8  from  Alexandria.  It  is  built  on  a  number  of  small  hills,  and  has 
a  pleasant  situation.  It  has  4  churches,  the  Episcopalians,  Presby- 
terians, Baptists,  and  Methodists  having  each  one.  The  other 
public  buildings  are  the  Catholic  college,  an  academy,  courthouse,- 
and  gaol.  Population,  in  1810,  4,948.  The  exports,  in  1810, 
amounted  to  g  107,439  ;  the  tonnage,  in  18o7,  to  2110  tons. 

Lilcrature.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  a  college  in  George-^ 
town,  which  is  well  endowed.  There  are  academies  at  Alexandria 
and  Georgetown.    • 

Co?nmerce.  The  exports  from  this  district  in  1810,  amounted  to 
gl,038,103,  of  which  ^984,453,  were  of  domestic  produce,  and 
•5553,640  of  foreign.  The  aggregate  tonnage  in  1807,  was  13,431 
tons.     Georgetown  and  Alexandria  are  the  only  ports. 

Rivers.  The  Potowmac  intersects  this  district  and  is  navigable, 
close  to  the  bank,  for  large  ships  half  a  mile  above  Greenleaf's 
point,  and  in  tlie  channel  some  distance  farther.  The  Eastern 
Branch,  as  it  is  called,  rises  in  Maryland,  and  flows  about  20  miles. 
It  is  chiefly  a  bay  of  the  Potov/mac,  and  is  navigable  4  miles  along 
the  bank  for  the  largest  ships.  Rock  creek  runs  southerly  about  1  6 
miles.  Tiber,  or  Goose  creek,  is  a  small  stream,  running  through 
the  city.  Its  source  being  236  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Potow- 
mac, it  can  be  niade  the  reservoir  of  aqueducts  for  any  part  of  the 
city.  Four  Mile  Run  falls  into  the  Potowmac  from  the  Virginia 
side,  opposite  the  Eastern  Branch. 

Canals^  Bridges,  Turnpike,  Road.  A  canal,  connecting  Tiber 
creek  with  the  Eastern  Branch,  has  been  partially  executed  ;  the 
tide  flows  into  it  5  or  6  inches  deep.  Two  bridges  are  built  over 
Rock  creek,  which  divides  the  city  from  Georgetown.  The  bridge 
near  the  mouth  of  the  creek  has  three  arches,  is  about  135  feet  in 
length  and  35  wide.  The  other  650  yards  above,  is  supported  by 
piles,  is  about  280  feet  long  and  18  wide.  Companies  have  been 
incorporated  by  congress  tor  the  purpose  of  opening  a  canal,  to 
connect  the  Potowmac  river,  with  the  Eastern  Branch,  through  a 
part  of  the  city  of  "Washington.  Also  for  erecting  a  bridge,  over 
the  Potowmac,  witlun  this  cUstrict.    Also  for  making  a  turnpik^e 


Virginia,  aif 

iroiri  Mason's  causeway,  to  Alexandria.  A  road  fi'om  this  district 
to  New-Orleans,  through  the  Indian  territories  is  making,  the  dis- 
tance estimated  at  about  1000  miles. 


VIRGINIA* 

Extent.  THIS  state  lies  between  lat.  36  30  and  40  40  N. ;  and 
between  Ion.  75  25  and  83  40  W.  Its  length,  on  the  southern  line 
Ss  440  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  290.  The  number  of  square 
miles  is  estimated  at  70,000.  A  narrow  strip  of  land  runs  north-' 
ward  between  Pennsylvania  and  the  Ohio  river  ;  another  wedge- 
like strip  passes  between  Kentucky  and  Tennessee  ;  and  the  coun-* 
ties  on  the  eastern  shore,  are  the  lower  part  of  a  peninsula,  separ- 
ated from  the  rest  of  the  state  by  the  width  of  the  Chesapeak.  Ex- 
clusive of  these,  Virginia  is  compact. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland  ;  E. 
hy  the  Atlantic  ;  S.  by  North-Carolina  and  Tennessee  ;  W.  by  the 
Cumberland  mountains  and  Big  Sandy  river,  which  divide  it  from 
Kentucky ;  and  N.  W-  by  Ohio  river,  which  divides  it  from  the 
state  of  Ohio,  coasting  the  state  for  291  miles. 
Divisions.  This  state  is  divided  into  98  counties. 
JVame.  Queen  Elizabeth,  in  1584,  gave  the  name  of  Virginia  to 
a  much  larger  tract  of  country,  than  that  included  in  its  present  lim* 
its,  as  a  memorial  that  its  discovery  was  made  under  a  virgin  queen. 
Juan  Ponce,  a  Spaniard,  as  early  as  1512,  had  discovered  Florida  s 
and  the  French  and  Spaniards  gave  that  name  to  a  tract  of  country 
of  indefinite  extent,  in  which  Virginia  was  included. 

History.  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  in  1584,  obtained  of  queen  Eliza- 
beth a  patent  for  discovering  remote  heathen  and  barbarous  lands* 
An  expedition  under  Philip  Amadas  and  Arthur  Barlow  set  sail  iri 
April,  and  arrived  on  the  American  coast  on  the  4th  of  July,  of  that 
year.  They  landed  at  the  island  of  Wocokom,  on  the  26th  of  that 
ftionth,  and  soon  aftei'  on  the  main  land  of  Virginia. 

In  1606  king  James  divided  the  territory  called  Virginia  into  2 
districts.  North  and  South-Virginia.  A  permanent  settlement  wa§^, 
jnade  the  next  year,  at  Jamestown,  under  governor  Wingfield. 

In    1610  lord  Delaware  was  entrusted  with  the  entire  govern- 
ment, and  furnished  large  supplies  to  the  colony. 
In  1612  the  third  charter  was  granted. 

In  1613  Jolin  Rolf  married  Pocahontas,  daughter  of  Powhatan, 
an  Indian  chief,  and  three  years  after  carried  her  to  England,  where 
she  died.  She  left  a  son,  from  whom  sonic  of  the  most  respectai>le 
families  in  Virginia  have  descended. 

The  adventurers,  in  1615,  had  the  title  to  their  lands  vested  in 
them  ;  before,  they  had  held  them  as  tenants  at  will. 

A  large  colony  came  over  in  1618,  under  lord  Delaware,  who 
died  on  the  voyaL'^;,  and  the  next  year  the  first  colonial  assembly 
•^vas  convoked  at  Jamestown. 

A  colony  of  1216  persoas  arrived  ia  1620.  aijaong  whom  ^ycre  90 
38 


$18  VlRCrlNlAi 

gh'ls,  "  young  and  uncorrupt,"  who  came  ovei'  to  marry  as  itiany  of 
tiie  adventurers.  They  succeeded  so  well  that  60  more  came  over 
the  next  year.  The  husbands  were  oblit^ed  to  buy  them  of  the 
company,  and  gave  for  them  notes,  payable  in  tobacco.  The  price 
of  a  wife  was  at  first  100  pounds  of  tobacco  ;  it  afterwards  rose  to 
150  pounds. 

A  new  form  of  government  was  brought  over  in  1621,  and  in" 
1622,  347  of  the  colonists  were  massacred  by  the  Indians. 

The  charter  of  the  Virginia  company  v/as  vacated  in  1624;  and 
the  ne-^t  year  Charles  I.  made  the  province  immediately  dependent 
on  the  crown. 

All  the  country  south  of  lat.  36  30  was  taken  from  Virginia  in^ 
1630,  and  called  Carola^ia.-    Maryland  was  taken  from  it  in  i632. 

Severe  laws  were  passed  for  the  suppression  of  dissenters  in 
1633.  The  civil  privileges  of  the  colony  were  entirely  restored  in 
1639. 

The  province,  in  1652,  submitted  to  Cromwell  ;  but,  in  1659, 
before  the  restoration  of  Charles  II.  threw  off  the  government  of 
the  protectorate,  and  reinstated  Sir  William  Berkely,  the  royal 
governor.  The  laws  of  England  were  adopted  as  the  provincial 
laws  in  1661.  The  ancient  constitution  was  restored  the  next  year, 
and  the  church  of  England  reestablished. 

A  Dutch  squadron  arrived  on  the  coast  in  1673,  and  did  great  in- 
jury to  the  colonists.  Two  insurrections  took  place  in  1675,  but 
wei'e  suppressed.  The  next  year  was  the  era  of  Bacon's  rebellion, 
which  cost  the  province  100,000/. 

Col.  Washington,  in  1754,  marched  with  a  body  of  troops  to  the 
Ohio  against  the  French  and  Indians.  He  surprised  and  took  Fort 
Du  Quesne,  (Pittsburg)  but  was  compelled,  by  a  large  army,  to 
retire  from  the  fort,  and,  the  next  day  to  surrender.  His  troops 
were  allowed  the  honors  of  war,  and  permitted  to  return  home. 

In  1755,  General  Braddock  marched  against  Fort  Du  Qnesne  ; 
but  in  penetrating  through  the  wilderness,  he  incautiously  fell  into 
an  ambuscade,  and  suffered  a  total  defeat.  General  Braddock  was 
killed,  but  the  enemy  not  pursuing  the  vanquished  across  the  riv- 
er, being  eager  in  plundering  the  baggage  of  the  dead,  a  part  of  his 
troops  were  saved  by  flight,  under  the  conduct  of  General  Wash- 
ington, at  that  time  a  colonel,  who  then  began  to  exhibit  proofs  of 
those  military  talents,  by  which  he  afterwards  conducted  the  armies 
of  America  to  victory,  and  his  country  to  independence. 

This  province  was  forward  in  resisting  the  encroachments  of  the 
:mother  country,  in  1765  and  1769.  The  constitution  of  the  state 
was  adopted  on  the  5th  of  July,  1776.  In  1781  the  state  was  made 
the  theatre  of  the  war;  and,  on  the  19th  of  October,  in  that  year, 
the  British  army,  under  lord  Cornwallis,  surrendered  at  Yorktown. 
This  interesting  event  decided  the  contest  in  favor  of  America,  and 
laid  the  foundation  of  the  peace,  which  was  concluded  the  following- 
year. 

Kentucky  was  erected  into  a  separate  district  in  1782,  and  en- 
tirely separated  from  Virginia  in  1786. 

Religion,    The  present  denominations  of  Christians  in  Virginia 


I 


VJRGINiA,  S.l» 

.are  Presbyterians,  who  are  the  most  numerous,  and  inhabit  the 
western  parts  of  the  stale  ;  Episcopalians,  who  are  the  most  ancieat 
.settlers,  and  occupy  the  eastern  and  first  settled  parts  of  the  state. 
Intermingled  with  these  are  great  numbers  of  Baptists,  Methodists., 
and  Friends. 

Gova'n77ie?it,  The  legislature  is  called  the  general  assembly  y 
and  is  composed  of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives.  The 
senate  consists  of  24  members,  who  are  choscnibr  4  years,  by  dis- 
tricts- One  fourth  of  the  senate  goes  out  yearly.  A  senator  must 
be  25  years  of  age,  and  a  resident  and  freeholder  within  the  district. 
The  representatives  are  chosen  annually,  two  from  each  county, 
and  one  from  several  cities  and  boroughs  each.  They  must  be 
freeholdei's  and  reside.nts  in  the  county- 

The  governor  is  chosen  annually  by  joint  ballot  of  both  houses, 
and  can  hold  the  office  but  3  years  in  7.  lie  lias  a  privy  council  of 
8  members,  chosen  by  joint  ballot  of  both  houses.  The  two  houses 
remove  two  of  its  members  every  3  years,  and  appoint  two  new 
ones.  The  council  chooses  its  president,  who  in  case  of  the  death, 
resignation,  or  absence  of  the  governor,  acts  in  his  stead.  The 
governor  and  council  have  the  power  of  pardoning. 

Pofiulation.     The  following  numbers  are  the  results  of  calcula- 
tions, or  actual  enumerations  made  in  the  respective  years. 
1600  490  1749  85,000 

1617  ,400  C   .70„000  whites  I 

1618  600  "^"^  i  100,000  blacks  5  ^^"'"°^ 
1623                            2,500 
1640                          ^20,000                   1790- 
•J  660                           30,000 
.._,  C  38,000  whites  )  f  5l4,280whites') 

I    2,000  blacks  5  ^^'^^^  1800-j  543,796  slaves  1880,200* 

1675                      50,000  (_    20,124freebl.J 

1681                       1 4,000 tithables  ("551,534  whites' 

{25,023  tithables  1  1810- 
35,583  women  &c  l60.,606 
children  J 
The  items  of  the  census  of  I*' 10  were  as  follow  ; 

raales.  females.                   total. 

Under  1 6  years  of  age     140,696  132,922                 273,618 

Between  16  and  45           104,040  106,062                  210,102 

45  and  upwards                 35,302  32,512                   67,814 


{442,117  whites  1 
292,627  slaves  i747,610 
12,866  free  bh  J 
{5 14,2  80  whites  "I 
543,796  slaves  1880,200* 
20,124freebl.J 
{551,534  whites') 
392,5  18  slaves  J. 974,672 
30,570  free  bl.  J 


Total     280,038  271,496  551,534 

At  each  of  the  3  national  enumerations,  this  state,  in  point  of  pop- 
ulation, was  the  first  in  the  union  ;  but,  in  1790,  its  number  of 
whites  was  inferior  to  that  cf  Massachusetts  ;  and  in  1800  and  1810 
to  those  of  Pennsylvania,  Massachusetts,  and  New-York.  The  in- 
crease, in  the  last  ten  years,  of  the  number  of  whites,  was  37,254 
or  7-j?\j.  per  cent. ;  that  of  the  number  of  blacks  was  57,168  or  \5^^ 
per  cent.  The  immense  number  of  mulattoes  in  the  low  country 
explains  this  otherwise  unaccountable  disproportion. 

*'jixclusive  of  the  district  of  Columbia. 


S20  VIRGINIA. 

Militia.  The  number  of  the  militia  in  1810,  did  not  much  cX" 
ceed  50,000,  and  these  indifferently  armed  and  disciplined. 

The  intersection  of  Virginia  by  so  many  navigable  rivers,  ren= 
ders  it  almost  incapable  of  defence.  As  the  land  will  not  support  a 
great  number  of  people,  a  force  cannot  soon  be  collected  to  repel  a 
sudden  invasion. 

Mannem  and  Customs.  The  inhabitants  of  Virginia  are  chiefly 
planters,  living  on  separate  plantations  and  not  in  villages.  Labor, 
iji  the  eastern  and  most  populous  district,  is  carried  on  almost 
wholly  by  slaves  ;  who,  in  many  of  the  counties,  arc  much  more 
numerous  than  the  whites.  The  law  which  provides  that  no  man 
shall  be  compelled  to  support  any  religious  worship?  place,  or  min- 
ister ;  and  the  sequestration  which  had  previously  been  made  of 
all  the  glebe  lands  in  the  state,  belonging  to  the  Episcopal  church, 
for  public  use  ;  have  done  more  to  root  Christianity  out  of  Virgin-? 
ia,  than  the  efforts  of  a  century  probably  can  do  to  restore  it.  There 
are  but  few  places  for  public  worship,  of  any  denomination,  in  the 
lower  parts  of  Virginia,  and  these  are  small,  and  have  but  few  at- 
tendants. The  religious  and  moral  state  of  the  great  body  of  the 
inhabitants,  must  of  course  be  deplorable.  To  the  credit  of  this 
state,  a  law  has  lately  been  passed  requiring  that  all  persons  elect? 
ed  to  any  civil  office  in  the  statCj  previously  to  his  entering  on  it^ 
duties,  shall  take  an  oath  in  public  coui-ts,  that  he  has  not,  since  the 
passing  of  this  law,  been  concerned  directly  nor  indirectly  in  any 
duel  J  and  that  he  will  not  be  thus  concerned  in  future.  This  law, 
it  is  said,  has  already  had  its  e'ftect  in  checking  this  prevalent  vice. 

Literature.  William  and  Mary  college,  at  Williamsburg,  was 
founded  by  William  III.  in  1691,  who  gave  it  nearly  2000/.  ster- 
ling, 20,000  acres  of  Jand,  and  a  penny  a  pound  on  all  tobacco  ex- 
ported from  Virginia  and  Maryland.  There  are  now  six  profes- 
sorships in  this  college,  one  of  moral  philosophy,  natural  philoso- 
phy and  the  belles  lettres ;  one  of  mathematics  ;  one  of  law  ;  one 
of  modem  languages  ;  and  two  of  humanity.  The  philosophical 
apparatus  is  complete,  and  the  library  extensive.  A  grammar 
school,  connected  with  the  college,  has  about  50  or  60  boys,  who 
are  instructed  by  two  professors,  and  an  usher.  The  annual  ex- 
pense of  their  board,  cashing,  and  tuition,  is  about  twenty  guineas, 

A  college  is  established  in  Prince  Edward  county,  called  "  Ham- 
den  Sidney  college  ;"  another  at  Lexington,  called  Washington 
college.  This  latter  seminary,  by  the  liberality  of  individuals,  has 
a  libiuiy,  philosophical  apparatus,  and  buildings  to  accommodate 
50  or  60  students.  In  1796  it  was  endowed  by  General  Washing- 
ton with  one  hundred  shares  in  the  James  river  company.  These 
shares,  which  are  estimated  at  six  or  eight  thousand  pounds  cur" 
Tcncy,  it  is  expected  will  soon  produce  sufficient  to  increase  the  li- 
brary and  buildings,  to  inaintain  a  competent  number  of  masters 
and  professors. 

There  are  several  academies  in  Virginia — one  at  Alexandria- 
one  at  Norfolk — one  at  Hanover,  and  others  in  other  places. 

A  plan  was  devised  some  time  since  by  a  committee  of  the  leg-' 


VIRGINIA.  221 

islature  to  establish  comtnon  and  grammar  scliools  throughout  the 
Slate  on  a  new  plan  ;  but  we  believe  it  has  met  wiih  little  success. 

Chief  Tonvrifs.  Virginia  is  not,  like  New-England,  divided  into 
townships  ;  and  there  are  lew  towns  of  considerable  size,  in  this  or 
any  of  the  southern  states. 

Richmond,  the  seat  of  government,  is  situated  on  the  N.  side  of 
James  river,  just  at  the  foot  of  the  falls.  The  public  buildings  are 
an  Episcopal  church,  a  handsome  siatehoiise,  a  courthouse,  and 
gaol.  It  had  a  theatre,  which,  in  December,  1811,  was  consumed 
during  an  exhibition,  and  with  it  the  governor  of  the  state,  and 
nearly  100  others,  among  the  most  respectable  persons  in  the 
state.  A  handsome  church  has  since  been  erected  on  the  site  of 
the  theatre.  N.  lat.  2>7  40,  W-  ion.  77  50.  Population  in  1790, 
4000  J  in  1800,  5739;  and,  in  1810,  9735,  of  whom  4937  were 
blacks. 

Norfolk  is  on  the  E.  side  of  Elizabeth  river  ;  which  is  here 
from  350  to  400  yards  wide,  and  has  1  8  feet  water  up  to  the  town. 
The  harbor  is  safe,  commodious,  and  large  enough  to  contain  300 
ships.  It  contained,  in  1790,  2959  inhabitants  ;  in  I8v)0,  6746,  and 
in  1810,9183,  of  whom  4414  were  blacks.  Lat.  36  55  N.  Ion.  7Q 
23  W.  114  miles  E.  S.  E.  of  Richmond. 

Petersburg  is  on  the  S.  E.  bank  of  the  Appomattox,  25  miles 
S.  of  Richmond,  and  just  below  the  falls.  It  contains  an  Episcopal 
church,  a  courthouse,  and  gaol.  It  is  the  emporium  of  a  consider- 
able district  of  North-Carolina,  as  well  as  of  the  southern  part  of 
Virginia.  It  has  exported  in  a  single  year  to  the  value  of  nearly 
gi,500,000.  Population  in  1810,  5668,  of  whom  3262  were  blacks, 
Lat.  37   14  N.  Ion.  78  8  W.  25  miles  S.  of  Richmond. 

Williamsburg  is  situated  between  two  creeks,  branches  of 
James  and  York  rivers.  The  distance  of  each  landing  place  is 
about  a  mile  from  the  town.  The  public  buildings  are  an  Episco- 
pal church,  a  college,  capitol,  courthouse,  gaol,  and  hospital  for  lu' 
natics.  Population  in  1810,  including  James  city,  4094  ;  of  these 
about  1500  arc  in  Williamsburg.  Lat.  37  16  N.  Ion.  76  48  W.  60 
miles  E.  of  Richmond. 

Mount  Vernon,  the  celebrated  seat  of  Washington,  is  plea- 
santly situated  on  the  Virginia  bank  of  the  river  Potowmac,  where 
it  is  nearly  two  miles  wide,  and  is  about  280  miles  from  the  sea, 
and  127  from  Point  Look  Out,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It  is  9 
miles  below  Alexandria. 

Canals.  The  Shenandoah  in  the  last  8  miles  of  its  course  falls 
80  feet.  Six  different  canals,  20  feet  wide,  4|^  deep,  and  extending 
altogether  2400  yards,  have  been  opened  around  the  most  difficult 
falls,  and  rendered  the  river  passable.  The  distance  on  the  Appo" 
mattox,  from  the  upper  end  of  the  falls  to  tide  water  at  Petersburg, 
is  5  miles  ;  and  the  descent  upwards  of  30  feet.  The  canal  is  16 
feet  wide,  and  3  deep,  and  admits  boats  of  6  tons.  The  capital 
amounts  to  upwards  of  5S60,000. 

Manufactures.  A  manufacture  of  small  arms  has  been  estabi. 
lished  at  Richmond  by  the  state,  on  an  extensive  scale.  It  is  sup- 
plied with  iron,  coal,  &c.  by  water.    The  materials  are  landed  at 


S22        •  VIRGINIA. 

tiie  doors  of  the  buildings,  which  stand  on  the  margin  of  the  canal, 
whence  the  works  derive  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  water,  by 
Bieans  of  which  the  greater  part  of  the  labor  is  performed. 

Commerce.  The  exports  from  Virginia  in  1804  amounted  to^ 
5^5,790,001  ;  and  in  1810  to  §4,822,611,  of  which  §4,632,829  were 
ef  domestic  produce,  and  §189,782  of  foreign.  Tobacco  is  the 
capital  article  of  export,  and  next  to  that  is  wheat  flour.  Pork, 
maize,  lumber,  tar,  pitch,  turpentine,  coal,  and  furs  are  the  other 
chief  articles.  The  aggregate  tonnage  of  this  state  for  the  year 
1805  was  71,488  tons,  and  for  1810,  83,924. 

The  exports  from  this  state,  before  the  revolution,  covimunibus 
finnis,  was  estimated  by  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  his  notes,  at  about 
§2,900,000.  In  1758  the  state  exported  70,000  ho£';5heads  of  to- 
bacco, which  was  the  greatest  quantity  ever  produced  in  the  state 
jn  a  single  year. 

Climate.  The  temperature  of  the  coast  is  warmer  than  that  of 
ihe  interior,  and  the  warmth  decreases  gradually  to  the  summit  of 
the  Allegany.  The  mean  heat  of  5  years  (1772 — 1776)  was  60|° 
of  Fahrenheit.  The  greatest  average  heat  of  any  one  day,  during 
that  time  was  82|°  ;  and  the  least  38^"^.  The  extremes  of  temper- 
ature were  98°  above,  and  6°  below  0  of  Fahrenheit.  Sudden 
changes  of  temperature  are  common.  The  S.  W.  wind  is  the 
most  common  on  the  coast  in  all  seasons.  In  the  interior  the 
N.  W. 

The  average  annual  fall  of  rain  during  the  period  already  men? 
lioned,  at  Williamsburg,  was  47-038  inches  ;  of  which  9-153  inches 
fell  in  August,  more  than  double  the  quantity  of  any  other  month, 
Face  of  the  Country.  The  first  ridge  of  mountains  is,  in  this 
state,  generally  about  150  miles  from  the  sea.  Beyond  that  quite 
to  the  western  boundary  of  the  state,  the  country  is  mountainous  ; 
the  ridges  of  the  Allegany  occupying  a  greater  breadth  of  country 
in  Virginia,  tban  in  any  other  state.  Between  the  various  ridges, 
however,  there  are  long  valleys  parallel  with  them,  often  of  consid- 
erable breadth,  and  containing  some  of  the  best  and  most  pleasant 
land  in  Virginia.  Belovi'  the  mountains,  the  country  is  a  success 
aion  of  hills  and  valleys  as  far  as  the  lowest  falls  of  the  rivers. 
These,  in  the  Potov/mac,  are  3  miles  above  the  city  of  Washing- 
ton ;  in  the  Rappahannoc  at  Fredericksburg  ;  in  the  James  at  Rich- 
mond ;  in  the  Appomatox  a  little  above  Petersburg,  and  in  the 
Roanoke  about  10  miles  above  Halifa::  in  North-Carolina.  Th^ 
width  of  the  tract  below  these  falls  in  a  strait  line  varies  from  1 10 
to  13G  miles.  This  tract  is  called  the  Low  country,  and  is  chiefly 
a  sandy  plain,  covered  with  the  long  leaved  or  pitch  pine. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  in  the  tide-water  country  is  gen- 
erally poor.  Its  chief  productions  are  maize,  oats,  and  peas. 
Wheat  is  raised  in  some  parts  of  it,  a  little  rice  also  in  the  southern 
swamps.  Between  tide-water  and  the  mountains  the  land  is  prin- 
cipally good.  This  is  the  tobacco  country.  Great  quantities  of 
wheat  are  also  raised  here.  This  grain  has  been  almost  wholly 
substituted  for  tobacco  in  the  northern  upland  counties,  and  suffi-f 
cient  cotton  is  raised  for  homp  consumjuion  in  those  S.  of  Jarae| 


VIIlGINiA'.  22S" 

^;ivei'.  The  sGutheastern  counties  produce  cider  and  cider  brandy 
m  large  quantities  ;  and  those  on  the  eastern  shore  abundance  of 
peach  brandy.  Among  the  mountains  the  farmers  raise  large  num- 
bers of  cattle  and  hogs  ;  and  westward  of  them,  hemp  is  becoming 
the  staple  production.     Maize  is  cultivated  throughout  the  state. 

Rivers.  The  Ohio  is  the  N.  W.  boundary  for  many  miles  ;  and 
the  Potowmac  the  N.  E.  through  its  whole  length.  James  river 
runs  vhoUy  in  tliis  state  ;  the  Roanoke  partly  in  Virginia,  and  part- 
ly in  North  Carolina  ;  the  Monpngahela  and  Great  Kanhawa  chief- 
ly in  Virginia.  The  Youhiogany  barely  rises  here.  All  these 
have  been  described. 

The  Rappahannoc  rises  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  pursues  a  S.  E. 
course  of  200  miles  to  the  Chesa)vak.  It  has  4  fathoms  water  to 
Hobb's  Hole,  and  2  from  thence  to  Fredericksburg,  1 10  miles  frona 
its  mouth. 

York  river  rises  in  the  easternmost  ridge,  and  is  formed  by  the 
Pamunkey  and  Mattapony,  which  unite  at  Delaware.  Its  course 
is  S.  E.  to  Yorktown,  and  tlience  N.  E.  11  miles  to  the  Chesapeak, 
into  which  it  falls  at  Toes  point.  At  Yorktown  it  affords  the  best 
harbor  in  the  state  for  vessels  of  the  largest  size.  It  holds  at  high 
tide,  4  f:\thoms  water.  It  is  capable  of  navigation  for  loaded  flats 
70  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  whole  length  of  this  river  is  about 
180  miles. 

The  Piankatank  runs  S.  E.  about  40  miles  between  Rappahan- 
noc and  York  rivers,  and  receives  small  craft  8  miles. 

The  Shenandoah,  after  a  N.  E.  course  of  250  miles  aloog  the 
■western  skirts  of  the  Blue  ridge,  unites  it  waters  with  the  Potow- 
mac at  Harper's  Ferry,  just  above  its  passage  through  the  moun- 
tains. From  Port  Republic  to  within  8  miles  of  Harper's  ferry,  a 
distance  of  near  200  miles,  the  Shenandoah  is  naturally  navigable. 

The  Rivanna,  a  northern  branch  of  the  James,  runs  S.  E.  4(J 
miles,  and  empties  near  Columbia.  It  is  navigable  from  the  South 
mountain  to  its  mouth,  22  miles. 

The  Chickahomminy,  a  lower  branch  on  the  same  side,  runs  60 
miles  in  the  s»me  direction.  A  bar  at  its  mouth  has  only  12  feet 
water.  Vessels  of  that  drauglu  ascend  the  river  8  mile*  ;  those  of 
10  feet  12  miles  ;  and  those  of  6  tons  burthen  32  miles. 

The  Appomatox,  the  chief  southern  branch  of  th.e  James,  runs 
N.  E.  S.  E.  and  E.  about  120  miles.  Vessels  of  15  feet  draught 
sjo  up  to  Broadways,  and  those  of  4  feet  to  Petersburg.  Above  the 
fells,  which  are  now  caiiallcd,  and  which  are  5  miles  from  Peters- 
buig,  it  has  been  rendered  navigable  for  boats  to  Farmville,  80 
miles  above  Petersliurg. 

Blackwater,  Nottaway,  and  Meherrin  rivers  form  the  Chowan^ 
They  run  chiefly  in  Virginia. 

The  Great  Kanhawa  is  a  branch  of  the  Ohio.  From  the  falls  to 
the  mouth  of  Greenbriar  is  100  miles,  and  thence  to  the  lead  mines 
120.  It  is  280  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  Tlie  principal  branches 
of  the  Great  Kanhawa,  as  you  ascend  it,  are  Louisa  or  Coal  river 
from  the  west — Elk,  60  miles  from  its  mouth — Gaully  river,  more 
than  100— Greenbriar,  nearly  20Q.     The  three  latter  from  the  cast- 


5^24  VIRGINIA. 

The  Little  Kanhawa  is  150  yards  wide  at  the  mouth.  It  afforcfsf 
&  navigation  of  ten  miles  only. 

Big  Sandy  river  heads  very  near  Cumberland  river  in  Cumber- 
land moumains.  It  runs  N.  about  luO  miles,  and  falls  into  the 
Ohio  opporiite  Galliopolis,  where  it  is  60  yards  wide.  It  is  the 
boundary  of  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  and  is  navigable  60  miles  for 
loaded  batteaux. 

The  Goiandot  runs  N.  N.  W.  80  miles  into  the  Ohio  and  may- 
be navigated  by  canoes  50. 

Several  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Tennessee  are  found  in  this 
State. 

Swamfi.     A  considerable  part  of  Dismal  swamp  lies  in  Virginia." 

Mountains.  The  mountains  of  this  state  are  all  in  ridges,  runJ 
nlng  in  a  N.  E.  direction.  These  are  all  parts  of  the  Allegany  or' 
Apalachian  mountains.  The  Allegany  ridge  is  the  spine  of  the 
country,  is  broken  by  no  river  but  the  Susquehannali,  and  is  gen- 
erally about  3000  feet  high.  Its  course  is  nearly  N.  in  Virginia, 
as  far  as  the  angles  of  the  James  and  Kanhawa;  and  afterwards 
about  N.  N.  E.  The  Cumberland  mountains  are  the  boundary  be- 
tween Virginia  and  Kentucky  for  about  80  miles.  Their  course 
is  N.  E.  and  they  run  nearly  parallel  with  the  Laurel  ridge,  through' 
the  state. 

Mineralogy.  There  are  valuable  lead  mines  on  the  Kanhawa, 
opposite  the  mouth  of  Cripple  creek,  and  25  miles  from  the  North- 
Carolina  boundary.  The  proportion  is  from  50  to  80  pounds  of 
pure  metal  to  100  pounds  of  washed  ore.  The  most  common  is 
60  pounds  to  the  100  pounds.  The  ore  is  very  abundant.  A  coft-- 
fier  mine  was  opened  in  Amherst  county,  on  the  W.  side  of  James 
river,  and  another  in  Bedford  county  on  the  opposite  side.  They 
are  not  now  wrought.  Twelve  iroji  mines  are  now  open  ;  four  on 
James  river,  and  two  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state  in  the  valley 
west  of  the  Blue  ridge.  Black  lead  abounds  in  Winterham',  in  the 
county  of  Amelia.  The  country,  on  both  sides  James  river,  from^ 
13  to  20  miles  above  Richmond,  and  for  several  miles  north  and 
south,  abounds  m  mineral  coal  of  an  excellent  quality.  The  pits 
which  have  been  opened  lie  150  or  200  feet  above  the  bed  of  the 
river,  and  are  little  incommoded  by  water.  It  is  very  abundant, 
also  W.  of  the  mountains.  One  emerald  has  been  found  here  ;• 
atnethysts  are  frequent,  and  rock  crystal  common.  Good  marble  a- 
bounds  on  the  N.  side  of  the  James  river,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Rockfish  ;  sonie  entirely  white,  but  generally  variegated  with  red, 
blue,  and  purple.  This  marble  is  part  of  a  vein  of  limestone,  whicli 
commences  in  Prince  William  county,  and  running  S.  W.  crosses 
the  Rivanna,  5  miles  below  South  mf>untain,  and  thence  proceeds 
to  the  mouth  of  ihe  Rockfish.  It  is  no  where  more  than  100  yards 
wide.    Limestone  is  found  every  where  W.  of  the  Blue  Ridge. 


KENTUCKY.  335 

KENTUCKY. 

Extent.  THIS  state  lies  between  36  30  and  39  10  N.  lat. ;  and 
between  82  50  and  89  20  W.  Ion.  Its  length,  on  the  southern  line, 
is  300  miles,  Its  greatest  breadth  is  180  miles,  and  its  least  40.  The 
Ohio  winds  along  the  whole  of  its  northern  side.  The  number  of 
square  miles  is  50,000. 

Boitndaries.     The  Ohio  winds  on  the  N.  700  miles,  and  separates 
Kentucky   from    Indiana  territory,   and  from  a  part  of  the  state  of 
Ohio  ;*    Big  Sandy  river  for  80  miles,  and  Cumberland  mountains 
separate  it,  on  the  E.  from  Virginia  :  on  the  S.  it  is  divided  from 
Tennessee  by  the  parallel  of  lat.  36  30  :  and  the  Mississippi,  on  the 
W.  separates  it  from  Upper  Louisiana,  coasting  the  state  60  miles. 
Divisions.     This  slate  is  divided  into  54  counties. 
Kentucky  is  entitled  to  send  10  representatives  to  congress. 
JVame.     The  name  of  this  state  is  derived  from  K' ntucky  river. 
History.     This  country  was  first  explored  by  Col.  Daniel  Boone 
in  1770.     The  first  family  settled  in  it  in  1775.     It  was  erected  in- 
to a  separate  county  by  "Virginia  in  1777  ;  and  into  a  separate  dis- 
trict in  I78i.     In  1785,  a  convention  was  formed  for  the  purpose 
of  procuring  an  entire  separation  from  Virginia.     This  was  effect- 
ed the  following  year.     It   continued  an  independent  district  till 
June  1,  1792,  when  it  was  received  into  the  union,  as  a  member  of 
the  United  States.     The  first  settlers  were   exposed  to  the  attacks 
of  the  Indians,  till  general  Clarke,   in  1778,   scoured  the   western 
wilderness,  and  took  all  their  posts,  as  well  as  those  of  the  French 
and  English. 

Religion.  There  are  three  prevailing  denominations  of  Chris- 
tians in  Kentucky,  Presbyterians,  B  ipiists,  and  Methodists.  The 
Baptists  are  the  most  numerous.  The  Presbyterians  arc  the  sec- 
ond denomination  in  point  of  numbers.  They  have  50  clergymen, 
■who  are  generally  men  respectable  for  their  learning  and  piety,  of 
•whom  about  40  are  attached  to  the  general  assembly  of  the  Presby- 
terian church,  and  10  to  the  associate  reformed  synod  of  Kentucky, 
The  doctrines  of  these  last,  as  well  as  those  of  the  first,  with  some 
exceptions,  are  strictly  Calvinistic.  The  Methodists  are  considera- 
bly numerous. 

There  are  a  few  Catholics,  and  still  fewer  Episcopalians.  The 
Catholics  have  a  bishop  at  Bardstown.  ^ 

In  Kentucky  the  laws  make  no  provision  for  the  support  of  re- 
ligion. This  fact  accounts  for  the  great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants 
•who  profess  no  religion. 

Government.  The  legislature  is  called  the  general  assembly ^ 
and  consists  of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives.  The  senators 
are  chosen  by  districts,  and  hold  their  seats  4  years.  One  fourth 
of  their  number  are  re-chosen  annually.  A  member  must  be  a  cit- 
izen of  the  United  States,  and  35  years  of  age  ;  must  have  resided 
in  the  state  the  6  preceding  years,  and  the  last  year  in  the  district. 

•  On  the  course  of  the  Ohio,  that  river  separates  Kentucky  &oiB  te4i/ip3;  fo? 
525  miles,  and  from  Ohio  for  I^, 
29 


226^  KENTUCKY. 

Their  number  cannot  exceed  38.  The  representatives  are  choseBi 
annually  on  the  first  Monday  of  Auy^ust,  chiefly  by  counties,  and  in 
a  few  instances  by  towns.  They  cannot  exceed  100  in  number.  A 
member  of  the  house  must  be  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and 
24  years  of  age  ;  and  must  have  resided  the  two  preceding  years 
in  the  state,  and  the  last  of  them  in  the  county  or  town.  The  as- 
sembly convenes  on  the  first  Monday  of  November. 

The  governor  is  chosen. by  the  people  once  in  4  years,  and  is  in- 
eligible the  succeeding  7.  He  must  be  35  years  of  age,  and  a  cit- 
izen of  the  United  States ;  and  must  have  resided  in  the  state  the 
6  preceding  years.  The  lieutenant  governor  is  chosen  for  the 
same  period  in  the  same  manner,  and  must  possess  tiie  same  qual- 
ifications. He  is  president  of  the  senate.  No  bill,  to  which  the 
governor  dissents,  can  become  a  law,  unless,  upon  a  reconsidera- 
tion, a  majority  of  both  houses  agree  to  it. 

Fofiulation.     The  population  of  this  state  was  in  the  year 

{61,133  whitesl  f  324,2o7  whites! 

12,430  slaves  173,677         1810-{     80,561    slaves  V  406.51  L 
n4freebl.j  (,      l5713freebl.  J 

r  179,871  whites"! 
180o4     40,343  slaves  [.220,955 
t         741  free  bl.  J 
The  items  of  the  census  of  1 8 10  were  as  follow  : 

white  males,     white  females^  total. 

Under  16  years  of  age        91,938  86,519  178,45r 

Between  ]  6  and  45  59,325  55,431  114,75^ 

43  and  upwards  17,542  13,482  31,024 


Total      168,805  15  5,432  324,237 

The  increase  in  the  first  ten  years  was  147,278  ;  and  in  the  sec- 
ond ten,  185,556.  The  blacks  in  both  periods  increased  considera- 
bly faster  than  the  whites.  At  the  first  enumeration,  Kentucky  was, 
in  point  of  numbers,  the  1 3th  state  ;  at  the  second,  the  9ib  ;  and  at 
the  third,  the  7th. 

Militia.  The  militia  of  this  state  amount  tn  between  40,000  and 
50,000  men,  organized  in  the  manner  of  the  Virginia  railiiia. 

Manners  and  Cicstoins.  The  inhabitants  are  emigrants  from 
every  state  in  the  union,  and  from  almost  every  country  in  Europe. 
There  is  of  course  a  great  mixture  of  complexion,  language,  relig- 
ion, feelings,  habits,  and  character.  A  considerable  number  of  the 
settlers  were  men  of  education,  respectability,  and  worth  ;  who 
Bave  imparted  a  good  influence  around  them  ;  but  a  large  majority 
were  of  a  quite  different  class  of  people. 

Literature.  A  seminary  by  the  name  of  the  Transijlvania  uni~ 
•versity^  has  been  established  at  Lexington.  Its  legislature  is  a 
board  of  21  trustees.  It  is  under  the  direction  and  instruction  of  a 
president,  who  is  professor  of  mathematics,  natural  philosophy, 
and  astronomy  ;  of  5  professors,  one  of  moral  philosophy,  logic, 
rhetoric,  and  history,  one  of  the  ancient  languages,  one  of  surgery, 
one  of  the  materia  medica,  and  one  of  botany  ;  and  of  a  teacher  of 
the  French  language.    It  has  from  60  to  8.0.  students,  beside  stu.- 


K-ENTUCKY. 


ilents  in  medicine.  The  library  contains  about  1500  volumesu 
There  is  a  piiilosophical  apparatus.  The  annual  revenue  of  the 
institution,  exclusive  of  the  fees  for  tuition,  amounts  to  S2700. 

There  are  a  few  respectable  schools  in  the  slate,  which  are  the 
result  of  indivicluai  exertion. 

The  legislature,  a  few  years  since,  gave  6000  acresof  land,  lying 
in  Green  River  county,  for  the  support  of  common  schools.  By 
being  divided  into  small  p>arctls,  it  has  not,  as  yet,  produced  one 
respectable  common  school. 

Towns.  Lexington  is  situated  in  a  delightful  plain,  about  40 
xniles  in  diameter,  and  half  encircled  by  Kentucky  river,  which, 
for  a  course  of  60  miles,  is  no  where  more  than  20  from  the  town. 
It  contains  1  handsome  Presbyterian  church,  1  for  Baptists,  1  for 
•Methodists,  and  1  for  Episcopalians,  a  college  edifice,  and  4326  in- 
habitants.    It  is  the  seat  of  several  flourishing  manufactures. 

Frankfort  is  the  seat  of  government.     It  stands  on  the  E.  bank 
W  the  Kentucky,  ^bout  30  miles  from  Lexington,  containing  1090 
inhabitants. 

Roads.  The  roads  in  Kentucky  are  in  the  situation,  which  niiglit 
be  expected  in  a  country  so  lately  settled  ;  generally  not  good. 

Canal.  The  Ohio,  at  the  rapids  in  Louisville,  descends  22  feet 
in  less  than  9  miles.  Boats  pass  these  with  difficulty,  and  larg« 
vessels  not  without  danger  at  the  freshets.  This  state  has  incor- 
porated a  company  for  the  purpose  of  canalling  these  rapids  with  a 
capital  of  8500,000,  of  which  only  a  small  portion  is  subscribed, 
and  the  work  is  not  yet  begun.  The  proposed  canal  must  be  near- 
ly 2  miles  long,  20  feet  broad  at  the  bottom,  and  68  at  the  top.  It 
^ust  be  dug  generally  about  16  feet  deep. 

Manufactures.  The  following  account  of  the  manufactures  of 
Kentucky  for  1810  was  returned  to  the  office  of  the  secretary  of 
State. 

■value, 
hides  tanned  70,432       g255,212 

740,242 

2,057,081 

690,600 

308,932 

38,561 

78,407 

324,870 

33,648 

18,600 

393,400 


267 

2000 
24,450 


Tanneries 
Distilleries 
Looms 
Hemp 
Maple  sugar 
Powder  mills 
Fulling  mills 
Salt  works 
Saltpetre 
Paper  mills 
Ropewalks 
Cotton  bagging 
Manufactories 
Spinnning  machines  1 5 
Forges  3 

Furnaces  4 


53 
33 

36 

6 

38 


spu-its 
cloth 


powder 

cloth 

salt 


i: 


paper 
cordage 

bagging 


galls.  2,220,773 

yds.  4,685,375 

tons  5,755 

lbs.  2,471,647 

lbs.  115,706 

yds.  53,038 

bushels  324,870 

lbs.  201,937 

reams  6200 

tons  1,991^ 

yds.  453,750 

spindles  1656 


159,445 


g5,098,998 
ISommerce,    The  staple  commodities  of  this  state  are  hemp; 


22«  KENTUCKY, 

wheat,  and  tobacco.  It  is  but  a  few  years  since  the  planters  turned 
their  attention  to  the  cuiiure  of  hemp.  These  and  the  other  arti- 
cles of  export  are  carried  do^v^l  the  Ohio  and  Missisippi,  to  New- 
OrleaiiS,  whence  the  foreign  articles  of  consumption  are  chiefly 
brought  up  these  rivers. 

Climate.  The  atmosphere  is  very  moibt.  This  renders  the 
ground  generally  muddy  throughout  the  winter  and  early  in  the 
spring.  Colds,  rheumatisms,  and  inflammatory  fevers  are  very 
common  in  those  seasons ;  and  these  last  in  July,  August,  and 
Septeniber.  The  inhabitants  seldom  experience  the  extremes  of 
heal  and  cold.  The  greatest  heat  in  1798,  ^Yas  89'^  of  Fahrenheit. 
The  weather  in  the  spring  and  fall  is  delightful.  The  S.  W.  wind 
blows  at  least  half  of  the  time.  The  intensely  cold  winds  are  all 
from  the  N.  W.  Snow  seldom  falls  deep,  or  lies  long.  The  win- 
ter, w  hich  begins  at  Christmas,  never  exceeds  3  months,  common- 
ly but  2,  and  is  so  mild  that  cattle  subsist  without  fodder. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  S.  E.  part  of  the  state  is  mountainous*. 
Below  the  mountains  the  country  for  some  distance  is  hilly  ;  but 
the  body  of  the  state  is  uneven.  There  are  considerable  tracts  of 
level  land,  and  the  state  at  large  would  be  more  healthy  and  pleas- 
ant if  more  hilly.  The  whole  state,  below  the  mountains,  reposes 
upon  an  immense  bed  of  liraestone,  from  1  to  20  feet,  and  usually 
5ibout  8  feet  below  the  surface.  Like  other  limestone  countries,  it 
is  poorly  watered,  and  has  scarcely  any  mill  streams,  which  are  not 
dry  after  harvest. 

SoU  and  Agriculture.  Probably  thers  is  no  tract  of  country  of 
the  same  extent,  which  has  a  better  soil  than  Kentucky.  Wheat 
was,  for  a  short  time,  the  chief  article  of  cultivation.  At  present 
little  more  is  raised  than  is  necessary  for  home  consumption. 

A  great  quantity  of  rye  is  raised,  but  almost  wholly  for  the  dis- 
tilleries. Hemp,  for  several  years  past,  has  been  the  capital  arti- 
cle of  produce,  and  will  soon  be  far  more  valuable  than  all  the  oth- 
ers. From  700  to  1000  weight  per  acre,  is  an  ordinary  crop. 
]Maize  is  extensively  cultivated. 

Rivers.  Tbe  Missisippi  is  the  western,  the  Ohio  the  northern^ 
and  tl'.e  Big  Sandy  the  eastern  boundary.  The  Tennessee  runs 
about  50  milts  in  the  state,  and  the  Cumberland  at  least  half  of  its 
course. 

Tlie  Kentucky  rises  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  ihe  state,  and  pursues  a 
;N.  W.  course  ot  280  miks,  to  the  Ohio;  emptying  121  miles  be- 
low tl-.e  Miami,  by  a  mouth  250  yards  wide.  The  course  is  crook- 
ed and  irregular,  and  the  banks  are  generally  high  and  rocky.  It 
is  navigable  for  boats  of  considerable  size,  180  miles,  in  the  win- 
ter tides  ;  but  as  low  as  Frankfprt,  they  can  pass  only  about  half 
the  y^ear. 

Green  river  rises  in  Lincoln  county,  and  pursues  an  irregular 
westerly  couise  of  280  miics,  to  the  Ohio,  emptying  120  miles 
below  Louisville.  It  is  navigable  at  all  times  for  loaded  boats  50 
liiilf  s,  where  there  are  impassable  rapids,  above  which  the  naviga^ 
tion  is  good  20  miles  to  the  mouth  of  Barren  river. 

Licking  river  heads  near  the  Kentucky,  and  runs  N.  N.  W.  a- 


NORTH-CAROLINA.  ^29 

ibout  1 80  miles  to  the  Ohio;  empiyhif^  opposite  Cincinnati,  by  a 
mouth  150  yards  wide.     It  is  nuvit^able  about  70  miles. 

Salt  river  falls  into  the  Ohio  at  the  Bi;^  Bend. 

Mou7itains.  Cumberland  nionniains  bouiid  tiie  state  for  about 
SO  miles  on  the  S.  E.  Various  other  low  ranges  lie  farther  west ; 
but  we  have  seen  no  particular  account  of  iliem. 

Minerals.  Iron  abounds  in  various  places  ;  but  the  metal  is  not 
of  the  best  quality.  It  is  well  adapted  for  hollow  ware,  but  does 
not  answer  for  malleable  iron.  There  is  an  immense  Cjuarry  of 
marble  on  the  banks  of  the  Kentucky.  It  i:s  of  a  greyish  cast, 
beautifully  variegated,  and  suscepiilile  of  a  high  polish.  On  the 
banks  of  the  same  river,  20  miles  from  Lexington,  tlicre  is  a  pecu- 
liar mineral,  which  is  semitransparent,  always  brcai;s  in  a  r/z^Tn- 
boidal  form,  and  has  the  double  refracting  power  of  the  Iceland 
crystal. 

Mineral  Waters.  There  are  5  noted  salt  springs  or  licks  in  this 
country  :  viz.  the  higher  and  lower  Blue  springs,  on  Licking  river, 

from  some  of  which,  it  is  said,  issue  streams  of  brinish  water the 

iBig  Bone  lick,  Drennon's  licks  ;  and  Builit's  lick,  at  Saltshurgii. 

The  quantity  of  salt  made  at  the  various  salt  licks  in  1810,  a- 
jnounted  to  324,870  bushels. 


NORTH-CAROLINA, 

Exteiit-  THIS  state  is  situated  between  33  50  and  36  SO  NT.  j 
and  between  75  45  and  84°  W.  Its  length  in  lat.  35  7,  is  430 
iniles.  The  greatest  breadth  is  180.  In  the  S.  W.  it  terminates 
in  a  point.  The  eastern  part  is  much  the  broadest,  and  the  whol® 
•winding  of  the  coast  is  not  less  than  300  miles.  The  number  of 
square  miles  is  48,000. 

Bou7idaries.  On  the  N.  by  Virginia  ;  on  the  E.  and  S.  E.  by 
the  Atlantic  ;  on  the  S.  W.  and  S.  by  South-Carolina ;  and  on  the 
W.  and  N.  W.  by  Tennessee. 

Divisions.  This  state  is  divided  into  62  counties  ;  each  county 
is  subdivided  into  towns. 

This  state  is  entitled  to  send  13  representatives  to  congress. 

JVames.  This  state  was  at  first  a  part  of  the  Florida  of  the  Span- 
iards and  French,  and  of  the  Virginia  of  the  English.  It  was  next 
included  in  the  patent  of  South- Virginia  ;  then  in  that  of  Curolana  ; 
and  afterwards  in  that  of  Carolina.  In  1729,  it  received  the  name 
of  JVorth-Carolina^  in  consequence  of  its  being  made  a  distinct 
province. 

Original  Pofiulation.  In  1700,  there  were  13  tribes  of  Indians 
in  this  province. 

The  whole  number  of  souls  in  these  tribes,  Lawson  reckoned  to 
be  about  4U00.  Five  other  tribes  came  to  North-Carolina  about 
this  time,  containing  750  souls.  ». 

pf  ail  ^hese  tribes  there  are  now  remaining  in  North-Carolina  z. 


230  NORTH-CAROLINA. 

few  of  the  Tuscaroras  only,  who  live  in  Bertie  county,  amounting, 
in  1790,  only  to  about  60  souls. 

History.  North  ■Carolina  was  early  discovered,  and  the  first 
English  colony  ever  planted  in  America  was  settled  on  the  island 
of  Roanoke,  in  Pamlico  sound,  in  1585.  The  next  year  the  colony 
returned  to  England.  Tlus  country  was  included  in  the  territories 
granted  by  charter  at  various  times  under  the  names  just  recited. 

The  first  permanent  settlement  was  made  on  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  Ciiowan,  and  called  Albemarle,  in  honor  of  gen.  Monk.  The 
emigrants  came  from  Nansemond,  in  Virginia,  and  settled  here 
about  1660, 

In  1669,  the  first  assembly  was  constituted  and  convened  at  Al- 
bemarle. The  first  assembly  for  the  whole  province  met  atCharles- 
town  in  1674. 

The  crown  purchased  the  whole  of  Carolina  of  the  proprietors, 
in  1729,  for  17,500/.  sterling  ;  and  the  king  immediately  divided  it 
into  two  provinces. 

In  )  769,  this  province  resisted  the  oppressions  of  the  ministry. 
Two  years  afterwards,  about  1500  of  the  inhabitants,  assuming  the 
name  oi  regulators,  rose  in  rebellion.  Gov.  Tryon  fought  and  de- 
feated them  :  300  were  killed  in  the  battle,  and,  of  those  taken,  13 
■were  condemned  for  high  treason,  and  6  executed. 

Religio7i.  The  western  parts  of  the  state  are  settled  by  Presby- 
terians from  Pennsylvania,  the  descendants  of  Scotch-Irish  emi- 
grants. Almost  a.11  the  country  between  the  Catawba  and  Yadkin, 
as  well  as  that  lying  on  those  rivers,  is  thus  peopled.  A  few  set- 
tlements of  German  Lutherans  and  Calvinists  are  intermixed. 
There  are  some  Presbyterians  also  in  the  lower  country.  The 
Moravians,  in  1751,  purchased  a  tract  of  100,000  acres  of  lord 
Granville.  It  lies  between  the  Dan  and  Yadkin,  is  called  Wacho- 
via, and  contains  a  number  oi  flourishing  villages,  the  three  largest 
of  which  are  Salem,  Bethany,  and  Bethabara. 

The  Friends  have  a  settlement  in  New-Garden,  and  congrega- 
tions at  Perquimons,  Pasquotank,  and  Crane  creek- 

The  Methodists  and  Baptists  are  numerous  in  the  middle  coun- 
try, and  considerably  so  in  the  lower  districts.  The  numbers  of 
the  first  are  much  greater  than  those  of  any  other  in  the  state. 

Government.  The  legislature  is  styled  the  general  asaembhj,  and 
consists  of  a  senate  and  house  of  comm.ons.  The  senators  are  chos- 
en annually,  one  from  each  county,  and  must  possess  300  acres  of 
land,  and  have  resided  the  preceding  year  in  the  county.  The 
members  of  the  house  of  commons  are  chosen  annually,  two  from 
each  county,  and  one  from  each  of  six  towns,  and  must  have  resid- 
ed there  the  preceding  year,  and  be  possessed  of  100  acres  of  land. 
Votei-s  for  senators  must  possess  50  acres,  and  have  resided  in  the 
county  one  year.  Voters  for  commoners  must  have  resided  one 
year,  and  paid  taxes. 

The  governor  is  chosen  annually  by  a  joint  ballot  of  both  houses  ; 
and  is  eligible  3  years  in  6.  He  must  be  30  years  of  age,  have  a 
fpeehold  worth  g  1000,  and  iiave  resided  in  the  state  5  years.    Tli$ 


I^ORTH-C  AROUND.  231 

tf«ecu6ve  council  consists  of  7  persons  chosen  annually,  by  a  joinc 
ballot  of  the  two  houses. 

Fofiulation.     North-Carolina  contained  in  the  vear 
1749  45,000  ("337,764  whites') 

{238,204  whites")  I80oJ   133,296  slaves  (.478,103 

100,572  slaves  [.393,751  (^      7,043  free  bl.  J 

4,975 free bl.  J  f  376,410  whites") 

18104   168,824  slaves  I  555,5C'» 
(_    1 0,2  6  6  free  bl.  J 
The  items  of  the  census  of  1810  were  as  follow  : 

males.  females.  total. 

Under  16  years  of  age         98,357  95,474  193,831 

Between  16  and  45  '  69,086  71,877  140,965 

45  and  upwards  21,189  20,427  41,616 


Total  188,632-  187,778  375,410 

Militia.  The  number  of  fencible  men  in  this  state  may  be  esli- 
inated  at  about  60,000,  organized  as  in  Virginia. 

Manners  mid  Customs.  The  Norlli-Carolinians  are  mostly  plant- 
ers, and  live  from  a  half  a  mile  to  three  and  four  miles  from  each 
other,  on  their  plantations.  They  have  a  plentiful  country,  no  ready 
market  for  their  produce,  little  intercourse  with  strangers,  and  a 
natural  fondness  fur  society,  which  induce  them  to  be  hospitable  to 
travellers. 

Since  the  peace,  there  has  not  been  greater  progress  in  the  arts 
of  civilized  life  made  in  any  of  the  states,  than  in  North-Carolina* 
Instead  of  dissipation  and  indolence,  formerly  too  prevalent  among' 
the  inhabitants,  we  generally  find  a  more  orderly,  inciustrious  pco-^ 
pie,  who  arc,  in  some  measure,  indebted  for  this  reform  to  the  great' 
immigration  of  farmers  and  artizans  from  the  northern  states,  who 
have  roused  the  spirit  of  industry  among  them,  in  a  country  where' 
it  may  be  cultivated  and  cherislied  to  any  degree.  The  schools 
that  have  lately  been  erected  in  different  paitsofihe  state,  have 
greatly  contributed  to  the  advancement  of  knovvludge,  and  the  im- 
provement of  the  people. 

Literature.  In  1789,  the  legislature  of  this  state  laid  the  foun- 
dation of  a  university,  by  an  act  for  that  purpose,  providing  hand- 
some funds.  The  site  of  the  institution  was  fixed  at  Chapel  HilU 
28  miles  W.  of  Raleigh.  The  college  has  a  professor  of  sciences, 
■a  professor  of  languages,  three  tutors,  and  about  100  studentPi 
There  is  a  library,  philosophical  apparatus,  and  a  small  cabinet  of 
euriosities.  The  students  are  from  North-Carolina,  Virginia,  Ten- 
nessee, and  Kentucky. 

A  college  edifice  of  brick,  100  feet  by  40,  two  stories  high,  and 
another  ISO  by  40  feet,  3  stories  high;  liou^cs  for  the  president 
and  steward,  of  wood,  constitute  the  public  buildings  belonging  to 
the  university. 

There  is  a  very  good  academy  at  Warrenton,  which  had,  some 
years  since,  120  scholars.  The  academy  at  Fayctteville  has  about- 
tli«  same  nunjber.    There  is  aiso  an  academy  at  Guilford,  at  Lum'- 


5S2  NORTH-CAROLINA. 

berton,  at  Nc-wbern,  at  WJIliainsborough  in  Granville  county,  &t 
Chai ham  courthouse,  and  HillsljoroUijh. 

In  this  state,  a  snedica!  society  was  incorporated  in  1799.  It  is  a 
■(valuable  institution.  They  have  encotn-aged  the  culture  of  various 
medicinal  articles,  wliich  thrive  here  very  well.  Paima  christi  and 
other  medicines  promise  to  be  articles  of  exportation. 

CUies  and  Toivns.  Newbern,  the  largest  town  in  the  state, 
stands  at  the  confiucisce  of  the  Trent  with  the  Neus,  on  a  sandy 
point  of  land  between  the  two  rivers.  The  public  buildings  arc  a 
small  Episcopal  church,  a  handsome  courthouse,  and  a  gaol,  ail  of 
brick,  and  a  tneatre,  which  was  formerly  a  distillery.  The  houses 
are  almost  wholly  of  wood,  and  are  indifferently  built.  The  pop- 
^ilation  in  1800,  amounted  to  2467,  of  whom  1298  were  slaves.  It 
carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with  the  West-Indies.  Lat.  35  20 
N.  Ion.  77  25  W. 

Fayetticville  stands  on  Cross  creek,  near  its  junction  witU 
Blount  creek,  and  a  mile  from  its  entrance  into  Cape  Fear  river. 
There  arc  upwards  of  400  houses.  Tlie  public  buildings  are  a 
Presbyterian  cliurch,  a  handsome  courthouse,  and  a  townhouse„ 
Fayetteville  is  better  situated  for  commerce,  and  vends  more  mer- 
chandize tlian  any  inland  town  in  the  state  ;  and  few  places  are 
inore  eligible  for  the  establishment  of  several  important  manufac- 
tures. 

Wilmington  is  S4  miles  from  the  sea,  on  the  E.  bankof  Claren- 
don river.     Population  in  1800,  1689.     The  trade  is  considerable. 

Edenton,  on  the  N.  side  of  Albemarle  sound,  has  about  150  in- 
tiifferent  wood  houses,  and  a  few  handsome  buildings. 

Raleigh  is  the  seat  of  government,  and  stands  120  miles  in  a 
direct  line  from  the  coast,  and  40  from  the  Virginia  boundary. 
The  city  has  about  120  houses,  and  upwards  of  i 000  inhabitants. 

Commerce.  The  amount  of  exports  from  this  state,  in  1804,  was 
S923,687  ;  and  in  ISIO,  §403,949;  of  which  S401, 465  were  of 
domestic  produce,  and  S2484  ol  foreign.  A  great  proportion  of 
the  produce  of  the  back  country,  consisting  of  tobacco,  wheat,  and 
vnaize,  is  carried  to  tite  Virginia  and  South-Carolina  markets.  The 
exports  from  the  low  country  arc  lunjbcr,  tar,  pitch,  turpentine, 
i'osin,  maize,  furs,  tobacco,  ])ork,  tallow,  bees  wax,  and  myrtle  wax. 
Cheese,  cider,  apples,  potatoes,  iron,  tin  ware,  furniture,  hats,  and 
ishocs,  are  imported  from  New-England;  and  foreign  merchandize 
chiefly  from  New-York.  The  aggregate  tonnage  of  this  state  for 
the  year  1805  was  34,090  tons. 

Climate.  June  is  the  most  healthy  month  ;  often  May  and  July 
may  be  callr^d  healthy.  Summers  diy  and  cool  are  the  most  salu- 
brious. More  deaths  occur  in  February  and  March,  from  inflam- 
rhatory  complaints  of  ih.e  head  and  breast  than  in  any  part  of  the 
year.  In  tiie  hilly  country  fluxes  are  common,  and  Vv-ry  fatal  to 
children.  Pulmonary  consumptions,  epilepiies,  apoplexies,  teta- 
nus, and  rickets,  are  hardly  known  in  Noith-Caroiina.  Ring  worms, 
tetters,  scurvy  in  the  teeth  and  gums,  are  common  The  western 
iiilly  )>arts  of  the  state  arc  healthy.  From  the  first  of  July,  to  the 
iirst  ol"  September,  the  mercury  ranges  between  80  and  96;  and 


J^ORTH-CAROLfNTA.  233 

sometimes,  though  seldom,  it  rises  above  100.  The  winters  are 
so  mild  in  some  years,  that  autumn  may  be  said  to  continue  till 
spring.  Wheat  harvest  is  in  the  beginning  of  June,  and  that  of  In- 
dian  corn  early  in  September. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  flat  or  low  country  in  North-Caroli- 
fta  extends  about  80  iTiiles  from  the  sea.  Its  natural  growth  is  the 
pitch  or  long  leaved  pine.  Between  this  and  the  lower  falls  of  the 
rivers  lies  a  belt  of  land,  about  40  miles  wide,  conisisling  of  small 
sand  hills,  and  covered  with  pitch  pine.  Beyond  these  falls  the 
country  is  a  land  of  hilis  and  vailies,  and  farther  back  it  is  moun- 
tainous. Inland  and  river  swamps  are  numerous  in  the  fiat  coun- 
try.    They  abound  with  cypress  and  bay  trees. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  Wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  and  flax  grow 
tvell  in  the  back  hilly  country,  but  tobacco  is  ihe  iiiost  important 
article  of  agriculture.  Cotton  and  hemp  are  cuid^'ated  there  to  a 
considerable  and  increasing  extent,  and  the  first  more  abundantly 
in  the  lower  part  of  the  hilly  country.  Maize  and  puise  are  ex- 
tensively cultivated  thruughout  the  state  ;  rice  in  some  of  the 
swamps  of  the  low  country.  The  greater  part  of  the  low  country 
is  not  woith  cultivating.  It  is  valuable  only  for  its  timber,  tar» 
pitch,  and  turpentine,  v/hich  have  been  considered  as  the  staple 
commodities  of  the  state. 

Rivers.  The  Roanoke  runs  partly  in  Virginia,  and  the  Yadkin, 
and  Catawba  partly  in  South-Carolina.  They  have  heretofore  been 
described. 

Cape  Fear  river  is  formed  by  Haw  and  Deep  rivers.  These 
rise  in  the  same  mountains,  and  running,  each  about  90  miles,  unite 
7  miles  above  Buckhorn  falls.  The  course  of  the  river  is  thence 
S.  and  S  E.  about  160  miles  to  the  ocean,  into  which  it  empties  be* 
tween  CapeFearisland  and  Smithville.  It  is  navigable  for  sea  ves- 
sels 25  miles  above  Wilmington,  for  large  Isoitslo  Fayetteville,  65 
miles  farther,  and  for  smaller  boats  above  th'\  forks.  About  6  miles 
fron^  Wilmington  the  river  divides  and  encompasses  a  considera- 
ble island,  below  whieh  it  has  more  the  appearance  of  u  bay  than  a 
river.  Clarendon  river,  or  the  N.  E.  branch,  is  a  stream,  that  runs 
nearly  S.  about  90  miles,  and  unites  v/ith  the  east  arm  of  Cape  Fear 
river,  just  above  Wilmington.  Black  river  is  a  longer  streamj 
which  rises  in  the  upper  country,  and  running  parallel  with  the 
Cape  Fear,  falls  into  it  a  little  below  Appleby, 

TheNeus  rises  in  the  upper  country,  a  little  above  Hillsborough, 
and  near  some  of  the  branches  of  the  Roanoke.  It  runs  on  the 
whole  S.  E.  and  falls  into  Pamlico  sound  at  its  southwestern  ex- 
tremity. Its  length  is  about  220  miles,  of  which  it  is  navigable  for 
sea  vessels  52,  for  large  boats  90,  and  for  small  boTits,  to  Smithfield, 
160.  Cotecney  creek  is  the  principal  tributary  on  the  E  ;  and  the 
Trent  on  the  W.  This  last  empties  at  Newbern,  and  is  navigable 
for  sea  vesels  12  miles,  and  for  boats  25. 

The  Pamlico  is  formed  by  Tar  riyer  and  Fislung  creek,  which 
tmite  a  little  above  Tarborough.  The  last  is  the  longest  stream, 
and  heads  near  Warrenton.  The  course  of  the  Pamiico  is  about 
S.  E.  and  it  empties  its  waters  into  the  western  extremity  of  Pam- 


^4  TENNESSEE. 

Kco  sound.  Its  length  is  about  1 80  miles.  It  is  navigable  fo«i' 
•vessels  drawing  9  feet  water,  to  Washington,  40  miles,  and  for' 
large  boats  to  Tarborough. 

The  Chowan  is  formed  by  the  Nottaway  and  Blackwater,  which- 
"anite  on  the  Virginia  line,  and  the  Meherrin,  which  falls  in  from 
the  W.  10  miles  below.  All  these  rise  in  Virginia,  and  pursue  ar 
southeasterly  course.  The  Meherrin,  the  longest,  inins  about  100 
miles.  After  the  confluence  the  Chowan  runs  S.  E.  and  S.  40 
miles,  and  falls  into  the  head  of  Albemarle  sound,  near  the  Roan- 
oke, by  a  mouth  3  miles  wide. 

Sivamfis  arid  Sounds-.  Dismal  and  Alligator  swamps,  and  Pam- 
lico and  Albemarle  sounds  have  already  been  described. 

Cap.es.  Cape  Hatteras  is  one  of  the  most  noted  capes  on  the 
coast.  Itisinlat.  35  I5  N  ;  and  is  a  point  running  out  from  th©^ 
middle  of  a  long  narrow  sand  island,  which  separates  Pamlic* 
sound  from  the  ocean. 

Cape  Lookout  is  south  of  cape  Hatteras,  opposite  Core  sound. 

Cape  Fear  is  remarkable  for  a  dangerous  shoal,  called,  from  its 
form,  the  Frying  Pan. 

Mountains.  The  Allegany  ridge  crosses  the  western  part  of- 
the  state,  and  the  Blue  ridge  lies  farther  east.  But  we  have  been 
able  to  obtain  no  satisfactory  account  of  the  mountains  of  North- 
Carolina. 

Mineralogy.  A  gold  mine  has  been  lately  discovered  in  Cabar- 
rus county  in  this  state,  which  had,  in  1805,  furnished  the  mint  of 
tl^e  United  States,  with  virgin  gold,  which  has  pi'oduced,  1 1,000 
<d611ars  gold  coin  ;  more  has  been  found,  but  the  extent  of  the  min& 
has  not  yet  been  discovered.  Gold  has  been  discovered  in  other 
creeks  in  the  same  neigliborhood. 

In  Buncomb  county,  near  Mackeysville,  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, is  a  mine  of  cobalt,  the  ore  of  which  is  rich,  with  a  large  in- 
termixture of  arsenic.  Its  manufacture  into  smalt  is  contemplat-' 
<ed. 

There  is  a  long  ridge  of  limestone,  which,  extending  in  a  south" 
■westerly  direction,  crosses  the  whole  state  of  North-Caiolina.  It 
crosses  Dan  river  to  the  westward  of  the  Sawro  towns,  crosses  the 
Yadkin  about  50  miles  N.  W.  from  Salisbury,  and  thence  proceeds 
by  the  way  of  King's  mountain  to  the  south. 


TENNESSEE. 

miles. 
Extent.    Length  400  ?  ,    .  <  ''^  38  and  38  38  W.  lon^. 

Breadth  104  \  "^^^^^^^   \  35°  and  36  30  N.  lat. 
Boundaries.     On  the  N.  by   Kentucky   and    Virginia ;    E.   by 
North-Carolina  ;  S.  by  Georgia  and  the  Missisippi  territory  j  and 
W.  by  the  Missisippi  river  ;  its  figure  being  rhomboidal. 

Kame.     The  state  wasnamcd  Irom  its  principul  river  ;  the  name, 
it  is  said,  having  been  ai;plied  to  the  river  by  the  Indians,  on  aecouDt 


TENNESSEE. 


515 


ABt  its  curvature,  giving  it  in  their  imagination,  the  ghape  of  an  In? 
dian  spoon,  which  the  name  indicates. 

Divisions.  This  state,  constituted  in  1796,  is  divided  into  5  dia- 
itricts  ;  2  in  East-Tennessee,  viz.  Washington  and  Hamilton  ;  and 
5  in  West-Tennessee,  viz.  Winchester,  Mero,  and  Robertson. 

The  following  is  a  table  of  tl»e  districts,  with  their  several  coun- 
ties, and  the  town  in  each,  in  which  the  courts  are  held,  be^innin^ 
■jui  the  eastern  cKtremity,  and  proceeding  westward. 


Districts.         Counties. 


No.  inhabitants.       Towns. 


Washington 

Carter 

4190 

ElizabethtowB 

Sullivan 

6847 

Blountville 

Washington 

7740 

Jonesborough 

Greene 

9713 

Greenville 

Hawkins 

7643 

Rogersville 

Hamilton 

Cocke 

5154 

Newport 

Jefferson 

7309 

Dandridge 

Sevier 

4595 

Sevierville 

Grainger 

6397 

Rutledge 

Knox 

10,171 

Xnoxville 

Blount 

3259 

Maryville 

Claiborne 

4798 

TazeweU 

Anderson 

3959 

Roane 

5581 

Kingston 

Campbell 

2668 

Rhea 

2504 

Bledsoe 

«839 

Winchester 

Overton 

5643 

Monroe 

Jackson 

5401 

Williamson 

White 

4028 

Sparta 

Warren 

5725 

Macminville 

Mero 

Sumner 

13,792 

Gallatin 

Wilson 

11,952 

Lebanon 

Rutherford 

10,265 

Jefferson 

Robertson 

7270 

Springfield 

Davidson 

15,608 

Nashville 

Williamson 

13,153 

Franklin 

Maury- 

10,359 

Columbia 

Franklin 

5730 

Hickman 

2583 

Robertson 

Montgomery 

8021 

ClarkesviJl® 

Stewart 

4262 

Dickson 

4516 

Bedford 

8242 

Giles 

4546 

Humphries 

1511 

Lincoln 

6104 

Smith 

11,649 

Tennesee  is  entitled  to  6  representatives  to  congress. 


>^B$  TENNESSEE. 

Historical  JEpoc/is.  About  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  the 
Shawanee  Indians,  who  lived  on  the  Savannah  river,  in  Gtnrgi^^ 
yemoved  and  settled  themselves  on  the  Cumberland  riv(  v,near  the 
present  site  of  Nashville.  Tbey  were  not  suffered,  however,  long 
to  remain  in  this  fine  country  ;  but  were  driven  off  by  the  more 
powerful  Cherokees. 

This  country  was  included  in  the  secontj  charter  granted  by 
Charles  II.  to  the  proprietors  of  Carolina  ;  and  in  a  subsequent^ 
division  it  was  made  a  part  of  North-Carolina. 

Its  situation  was  so  remote  from  the  sea  board,  beyond  rude 
mountains,  and  exposed  to  savages,  that  no  settlement  of  white 
people  was  begun,  till  near  the  commencement  of  the  revolutiona- 
yy  war.  The  first  settlers  stationed  themselves  on  the  Watauga 
viver.  Here  they  continued  several  years  unnoticed  by  the  gov- 
eriiment  of  Norih-Carolina,  and  under  no  laws  but  those  of  their 
own  making.  Their  operations  in  the  war  were  connected  with 
those  of  the  v,^estern  settlers  of  Virginia. 

The  year  1776  was  signalized  by  a  formidable  invasion  of  the 
Cherokees.  Their  intention  was  to  depopulate  the  country,  as  far 
as  the  Kanhawa,  because  this  brave  people  had  rejected,  with  ^ 
iioble  firmness  and  indignation,  the  proposals  of  Henry  Steuart  and 
Alexander  Cameron  for  joining  the  British  standard,  and  were  al- 
jnost  unanimous  in  their  resolution  to  support  the  measures  of  Con- 
gress. This  invasion  issued  in  a  total  defeat  of  the  Indians.  The 
first  appearance  of  any  persons  from  this  district,  in  the  public 
councils  of  North-Carolina,  was  in  the  convention  that  formed  the 
constitution  of  that  state  in  1776. 

Tennessee  became  a  distinct  territorial  government  in  1790,  and 
jn  1796,  was  erected  in  due  form  into  at;  independent  state,  making 
the  16th  in  the  union. 

Religion.  The  most  nr.merous  denominations  of  Christians  in 
this  state  are  Methodists,  Baptists,  and  Presbyterians.  There  are 
a  few  societies  of  the  Scotch  Seceders,  and  a  few  Friends. 

GovermneJit.  By  the  constitution  of  this  state,  which  was  form- 
ed and  ratified  at  Knoxville,  February  6,  1796,  the  legislative  au- 
thority is  vested  in  a  general  assembly,  consisting  of  a  senate  and 
house  of  representatives.  The  number  of  representatives  is  to  be 
fixed  once  in  seven  years,  by  the  legislature,  according  to  the  num- 
ber of  taxable  inhabitants. 

The  senators  are  never  to  be  less  than  one  third,  nor  more  than 
«ne  hair  the  number  of  the  representatives,  and  arc  to  be  chosen 
tipon  principles  similar  to  those  for  the  choice  of  representatives. 
The  election  for  members  of  both  houses  is  biennial. 

The  executive  power  of  the  state  is  vested  in  a  governor,  who  is 
chosen  by  the  electors  of  the  members  of  the  legislature  ;  the  per- 
son having  the  highest  number  of  votes  is  chosen. 

The  governors  are  to  be  chosen  biennially,  and  are  eligible  six 
years  out  of  eight. 

Every  freeman  of  21  years  of  age,  possessing  a  freehold  in  the 
county,  and  having  been  an  inhabitant  of  the  state  for  six  months 
preceding,  may  vote  for  the  members  of  the  legislature. 


TENNESSEE.  251* 

Pojiulation.     The  number  of  inhabitants  in  Tennessee  was  in 

{31,913  whites')  f  2 15,875  whites") 

3417  slaves  135,691  1810-j     44,535  slaves  1251,727 

361freebl.J  ^       JSirtrcebl.J 

{91,709  whites') 
15,384  slaves  1 105,602 
309  free  bl.  J 
The  actual  increase,  in  the  first  10  years,  was  69,911  ;  and,  ia 
ihe  second,   156,125.     The  increase  percent,  was  in  the  first  10 
years  187'3  ;  and,  in  the  second,  135'4. 

The  items  of  the  census  of  1810  were  as  follow  : 

males.  females.  total. 

Under  1 6  years  of  age      61,664  58,139  119,803 

Between  16  and  45  39,443  37,488  76,931 

45  and  upwards  10,656  "8,485  19,141 


Total      111,763  104,112  215,875 

The  inhabitants  migrated  chiefly  from  the  Carolinas  and  Virgin- 
ia. But  there  are  intermingled  settlers  from  most  of  the  other 
states  and  from  Europe. 

Indiayis.  There  are  no  Indians  in  the  state,  except  a  few  towns 
of  the  Cherokees  ;  which  are  in  East-Tennessee.  South  of  West- 
Tennessee  live  the  Chickasaws.  The  latter  were  always  friendly 
to  the  white  people ;  nor  is  there  any  probability,  that  they  will 
wish  ever  to  be  otherwise.  Some  in  both  these  nations  are  rich, 
and  have  attained  to  a  considerable  degree  of  improvement. 

Militia.  The  number  on  the  militia  roils,  is  between  20,000  and 
50,000  men. 

Manners  and  Customs.  In  these  particulars  there  is  a  greater 
resemblance  between  Tennessee  and  the  southern  states,  than  the 
northern.  Several  years  ago  the  assembly  passed  an  act  against 
the  barbarous  custom  of  duelling,  disfranchising  the  parties  con- 
cerned ;  since  which  no  duel  has  occurred.  On  the  whole  the 
state  of  society  is  improving. 

Colleges  and  Academies.  Acts  of  incorporation  were  passed,  by 
the  territorial  government,  for  three  colleges  in  East-Tennessee  ; 
one  in  Washington  county,  one  in  Greene,  and  the  other  in  Knox. 
The  first,  called  Washington  college,  is  without  funds.  The  sec- 
ond, called  Greenville  college,  has  some  endowments,  and  is  in  a 
fiourishii^  condition.  The  third  is  near  Knoxville,  and  not  at 
present  in  operation.  It  is,  however,  entitled  to  the  benefits  of  a 
donation  from  congress,  which,  there  is  an  expectation,  will  pro- 
duce to  it  a  capital  of  50,000  dollars. 

In  West-Tennessee,  there  is  a  college  at  Nashville,  recently  es- 
tablished, by  the  name  of  Cumberland  college.  The  building 
erected  for  the  accommodation  of  the  students  is  of  brick,  three 
stories  high,  and  containing  22  rooms  with  fire  places. 

Cumberland  college  has  a  similar  endowment  with  that  at  Knox- 
ville.    It  has  also  some  other  property. 

A  spirit  for  education  seems  to  be  increasing. 

Chief  ToiiKiSj^    K.NoxyjLi.p  is  situated  in  the  county  of  Knox,  on 


.188  TENNESSEE. 

4he  north  fcank  of  the  river  Holston.  The  number  of  inhabitant^ 
in  1801,  was  518  ; — free  males  198,  females  159,  slaves  161.  The 
increase  since  is  not  kno^vn. 

Nasha^lle,  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  Cumberland  river, 
^about  lautudc  35°,  nearly  190  miles  westward  of  Knoxville,  is  now 
the  largest  town  in  the  state,  and  in  a  thriving  condition.  It  con- 
stains  a  handsome  brick  courthouse,  a  markethouse,  and  a  bank  ; 
and  adjacent  is  Cumberland  college. 

Manafuciures.  In  East-Tentiessee  there  are  several  furnaces, 
forges,  and  bloomerics,  for  the  manufacture  of  iron,  a  rolling  and 
a  slitting  mill,  and  two  paper  mills.  In  West-Tennessee  there  are 
several  furnaces  and  forges,  and  one  or  more  bloomeries,  and  a 
paper  mill  ;  also  several  machines  for  the  spinning  of  cotton  ;  and 
several  for  the  manufacture  of  hemp  and  cotton  into  bagging,  as 
■well  as  rope  walks.  Salt  is  also  made  in  great  quantities  in  this 
state. 

Commerce,  The  principal  exports  from  this  state  hitherto  hav© 
been  cotton  and  tobacco.  But  the  people  are  beginning  to  rais© 
hemp  in  large  quantities.  Corn,  potatoes,  beef,  pork,  lard,  and 
fowls,  are  carried  in  boats  to  New-Orleans,  to  advantage. 

The  banks  of  Cumberland  are  as  inviting  to  the  ship  builder,  as 
those  of  Ohio  ;  abounding  with  excellent  materials.  And  the  riv- 
er rises  high  enough,  in  the  wet  season,  to  float  vessels  of  any  di-* 
mensions 

Goods  imported  are  brought  from  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore 
to  East-Tennesse  in  waggons ;  and  to  West-Tennessee  principal- 
ly by  waggons  as  far  as  Pittsburgh,  and  then  by  water  down  the 
Ohio,  and  up  the  Cumberland.  But  Orleans  sugar,  and  some  oth- 
er groceries,  come  up  the  Missisippi.  The  freightage  to  West* 
Tennessee  by  this  channel,  is  about  5i  dollars  a  hundred.  And 
steam  boats,  it  is  expected,  will  soon  facilitate  importation  and  les^ 
sen  the  expence. 

Clhnate  and  Seasons.  The  climate  is  agreeable  ;  but  the  ob* 
nervations  for  describing  it  scientifically  have  not  been  attended  to. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  face  of  the  country  is  greatly  varie- 
gated, exhibiting  many  beautiful  vallies,  and  some  extensive  tracts, 
which  are  either  level  or  gently  sloping,  especially  in  West-Ten- 
nessee.    But  there  are  parts  of  it  broken  and  unfit  for  culture. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  is  a  mixture  ;  a  great  propor- 
tion of  it  clay.  On  Cumberland,  Uuck,  and  many  of  the  rivers,  it 
is  of  a  very  superior  quality. 

Corn  i.s  produced  in  abundance.  It  is  excellent  for  hemp.  Cot- 
Jon  does  well  ;  and  so  does  wheat  and  other  small  grain,  where  the 
land  is  not  too  rich.  It  is  tolerable  for  flax,  and  lor  sweet  pota- 
toes, as  well  as  for  the  other  kinds.  Tobacco  grows  thriftily  ;  it 
will  answer  also  for  upland  rice,  and  for  indigo.  Vines,  garden 
plants,  and  fruit  trees  grow  luxuriantly  ;  and,  as  far  as  experiments 
have  been  made,  it  produces  the  grasses,  both  for  pastures  an^ 
meadows.  But  of  many  of  these  articles  the  inhabitants  are  very 
negligent. 


TENNESSEE.  259- 

^tt  Sfii^itig's,  tS'c.  Salt  springs  and  licks  are  found  in  various' 
j^laces,  especially  in  West-Tennessee,  but  no  works  are  yet  erected 
for  the  manufacture  of  salt. 

"  On  the  waters  of  French  Broad  river,  is  a  fine  large,  clear, 
medicinal,  warm  spring.  Numbers  of  persons  from  the  Carolinas, 
Georgia,  and  the  southern  parts  of  Virginia,  have  e:!:perienced  its 
salutary  effects  in  various  complaints^  The  heat  of  the  water  i& 
such,  that  at  first  going  into  it,  it  is  hardly  supportable."* 

Rivers.  East-Tennessee  is  veined  by  a  number  of  boatable  riv- 
ers, the  principal  of  which  is  the  Holston.  This  river  rises  in  Vir- 
ginia ;  and  in  Tennessee  unites  with  a  secondary  branch  called 
the  North  Fork,  100  yards  wide  at  the  mouth,  and  boatable  80  op 
70  miles. 

Not  far  from  their  junction  it  receives  the  Watauga,  from  North- 
Carolina ;  and,  a  few  miles  above  KnoxviUe,  the  French  Broad, 
through  a  part  of  the  same  state,  from  South-Carolina.  The  lat- 
ter enters  the  state  of  Tennessee  at  a  breach  of  the  mountain,  which, 
constitutes  its  eastern  limit ;  and  is  boatable  nearly  up  to  that  place- 
From  the  southeast  comes  in  the  Pigeon,  and  from  the  northeast 
the  Nolachucky  ;  both  boatable. 

Below  Knoxville  the  Holston  unites  with  the  Tennessee,  which 
rises  near  the  confines  of  Georgia,  and  is  boatable  30  or  40  miles» 

Its  junction  with  Clinch  is  lower,  at  the  place  called  Southwest 
Point.  Clinch  rises  among  the  mountains  of  Virghiia  ;  boatable, 
as  estimated,  200  miles.  In  Anderson  county  it  receives  Powell's, 
a  more  westerly  branch,  boatable  about  100  miles. 

West-Tennessee,  besides  being  bordered  by  the  Missisippi,  is^ 
bisected  by  the  Tennessee  and  the  Cumberland. 

Oby,  a  boatable  river,  proceeding  from  Cumberland  mountain, 
unites  with  the  Cumberland  four  miles  after  the  entrance  of  the 
latter  into  the  state. 

Mountains.  The  mountains  of  this  state  are  ribs  of  the  Alle- 
gany. Stone,  Yellow,  Iron,  Bald,  Smoky,  and  Unaka  mountains, 
are  names  applied  to  different  portions  of  that  grand  ridge,  which 
separates  it  from  North-Carolina.  Its  general  course,  as  well  as 
that  of  most  of  the  others,  is  nearly  from  the  northeast  to  the  south- 
west. 

The  principal  mountains  between  this  and  the  Cumberland 
mountain,  are  Bay's  mountaui,  Copper  ridge,  Clinch  mountain, 
Powell's  nv3untain,  and  Walling's  ridge.  They  are  of  enormous 
length,  and  neaiiy  parallel  to  each  other,  and  between  them  there 
are  excellent  vallies,  several  miles  in  width 

Cumberland  mountain  is  the  largest  eminence  in  the  state.  Its 
summit  is  extensive,  and  much  of  it  level.  There  are  several 
Toads  across  it,  and  settlers  along  tliose  roads.  And  though  the 
soil  is  meagre,  it  answers  for  clover,  small  grain,  and  orchards. 
It  gives  origin  to  various  rivers  and  creeks  ;  some  of  which  fall  in- 
to the  Clinch,  some  into  the  Tennessee,  and  some  into  the  Cum- 
feerljfnd,. 

*  Gov.  Blovint, 


g-40  SOUTH-CAROLINA. 

West-Tennessee  is  not  mountainous.  Parts  of  it  are  brokeii 
"With  ridges  and  knobs,  but  much  of  it  is  sufficiently  level. 

Mineralogy.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  abundance  both  in  East  and 
West-Tennessee,  enough  for  their  own  wants  and  to  supply  the 
lower  countvicB,  which  are  said  to  be  destitute.  A  great  deal  of 
saltpetre  is  also  manufactured  in  the  state,  from  the  nitrous  caves  ; 
sold,  generally,  at  12^  cents  a  pound.  Some  lead  mines  have  beeiy 
discovered. 


SOUTH-CAROLINA.* 

E:&tcni.  THIS  state  lies  between  lat.  32°  and  25  8  N. ;  and 
between  Ion.  78  24  and  83  30  W.  The  greatest  length  of  the  state, 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Santec  to  the  N.  W.  angle,  is  upwards  of 
340  miles.  The  breadth  on  the  coast  is  170  miles  ;  at  the  western 
extremity,  it  terminates  in  a  point.  It  contains  24,080  square  miles ; 
of  which  14,5 10  are  between  the  falls  of  the  rivers  and  the  Atlantic, 
and  9570  above  the  falls. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  and  N.  E.  by  North-Carolina  ;  on  the 
E.  by  the  Atlantic  ;  and  on  the  S.  W.  and  W.  by  the  Savannah  and' 
Tugulo  rivers,  which  separate  it  from  Georgia. 

Divisions.     This  state  is  divided  into  28  districts. 


Districts. 

No.  inhab,  in  1 800. 

No.  inhab.  in  1810c 

Charleston 

57,480 

63,179 

Chester 

8,185 

11,479 

Spartanburgh 

12,122 

14,259 

Laurens 

12,809 

14,982 

Marlborough ' 

4,966 

Darlington 

18,299- 

9,047 

Chesterfield  ^ . 

5,564 

Union 

10,235 

10,995 

Pairfield 

10,097 

11,857 

Pendleton 

20,052 

22,897 

Newberry 

12,006 

13,964 

Marion 

6,914 

8,884 

I^exington          1 

6,641 

Williamsburgh  5 

J5,766 

6,871 

Orangeburgh     J 

13,229 

Lancaster 

5,012 

6,318 

Edgefield 

18,130 

^3,160 

tJeorgetown  > 
Horry            ^ 

23,933 

15,679 

4,349 

Barnwell 

7,376 

12,280 

Abbeville 

13,553 

21,156 

Kershaw 

7,340 

9,867 

Greenville 

11,504 

13,133 

*  The  following  description  of  South  Carolina  has  been  improved  from  MS. 
remarks  by  judge  Dessaussure.but  more  largely  from  Dr.  Ramsay's  late  excellent 
hiitory  of  this  state,  io  2  vols.  8ve.  1809. 


SOUTH-CAROLINA.  241 

districts  No.  inhab.  in  1800.     No.  irthab.  in  1810. 

Suiiipter  13,103  '  19,054 

lieaufort  20,428  25,887 

York  10,248  10,032 

Richland  6,0'j7  9,027 

Colleton  24903  26,359 


Total     343,j9l  415,115 

This  state  is  entitled  to  9  representatives  to  congress. 
JVame.  This  was  a  part  of  the  Florida  otthe  early  Spanish  and 
French,  and  of  the  Virginia  and  South- Virg-inia  of  the  early  Englisli 
voyai^ers.  With  North  Carolina  and  Georgia  it  received  the  name 
of  Carolana,  in  1630  ;  and,  that  of  Carolina,  in  1663.  The  name  of 
Soutli-Carolina  was  given  it,  when  it  was  separated  from  Nortli- 
Carolina,  in  1729      It  then  included  Georgia. 

Hi.'Hory.  The  coast  of  tiiis  state  was  discovered  by  the  early 
American  voyagers. 

In  1670,  the  first  settlement  was  made  under  gov.  Sayle,  at  Port 
Royal  ;  who  removed  wilh  his  colony,  the  next  year,  and  planted 
old  Charlestown,  on  the  west  bank  of  Ashley  river,  and  9  years  af- 
ter they  abandoned  that  settlement  and  began  to  build  on  the  pres- 
ent site  of  Charleston.  Mr.  Locke's  constitution  for  the  govern- 
ment  of  Carolina,  arrived  in  1 670,  and  though  for  a  while  in  opera" 
tion,  was  found  wholly  inadequate  to  the  state  and  necessities  of 
the  colony. 

In  1682,  the  province  was  divided  into  3  counties.  A  colony  of 
French  refugees,  in  l690,  exiled  in  consequence  of  the  revocation 
of  the  edict  of  Nanlz,  settled  in  Carolina.  The  proprietors,  in  1 693, 
■wholly  abolished  Mr.  Locke's  constitution,  and  restored  the  people 
to  their  rights  under  their  charier.  The  next  year  rice  was  intro- 
duced into  the  province,  from  Madagascar,  by  gov.  Thomas  Smith. 
The  church  of  England  was  established,  by  law,  in  1703. 

The  French  and  Spaniards,  from  St.  AugUbtiiie,  invaded  Charles- 
town,  in  1706,  but  Avere  repulsed  with  loss.  The  Yamasaeta^  a 
powerful  tribe  of  Indians,  invaded  Charlestown,  in  1715,  and  were 
defeated.  The  colonists  throughout  Carolina  threw  off  the  pro- 
prietary government,  in  1719,  and  established  one  for  themselves. 
The  next  year  the  privy  council  sanctioned  their  proceedings  ;  and, 
in  1729,  parliament,  for  17,500/.  purchased  the  territory  of  the  pro- 
prietors for  the  crown,  when  it  was  divided  into  the  two  provinces 
of  North  and  South-Carolina 

A  Swiss  colony  settled  at  Purysburgh  in  17.13,  a  German  colony 
at  Orangeburgh  in  1735,  and  an  Irisn  colony  at  VViiliamsburgh  in 
1737. 

In  1740,  a  most  formidable  insurrection  of  the  negroes  took 
place,  v/hich  was  instigated  by  the  Spaniards.  The  culture  of  the 
indigo  plant  was  introduced  into  South-Carolina,  1743,  by  Miss 
Lucas. 

In  1752,  1600  foreign  Protestants  arrived  in  Carolina. 
The  province  suffered  severely  from  the  incursions  of  the  Cher- 
Si 


ur  SOUTH-CAROLINA. 

okees,  in  1760;  who,  in  the  following  year,  were  completely  re- 
duced. 

In  1764,  a  large  colony  of  Germons  settled  the  town  of  London - 
derrv.  The  peace  of  Sijuth-Caiolina  was  threatened,  in  1768,  by 
back  country  settlers,  under  the  name  of  Regulatoi's. 

In  1769,  this,  with  tiie  other  provinces,  began  openly  to  resist  the 
oppressive  measures  of  the  Briti'>h  ministry. 

In  1774,  an  insurrection  of  the  tories  in  tlVis  state  was  suppressed. 

The  British  troops  occupied  Charleston,  and  a  considerable  part 
of  Carolina,  in  1780.  Several  actions  were  fought  here  during 
that  and  the  succeeding  year,  the  most  decisive  of  which  was  the" 
battle  of  Eutaw  Springs,  in  1781,  which,  in  effect,  terminated  the 
war  in  this  state. 

The  coristitutibn  oFthe  state  was  agreed  on  in   1790. 

Original  Population.  When  South-Carolina  was  settled  by  the 
English,  it  was  in  the  occupation  of  28  nations  or  tribes  of  Indians. 
The  principal  of  these  were  the  Cherokees,  the  Catawbas,  the 
Creeks,  the  Chickasaws,  and  the  Choctaws.  The  Cherokees  in- 
habited the  v/cstern  part  of  the  state;  they  ceded  this  territory  to 
Carolina,  in  1777,  and  now  reside  beyond  the  mountains.  The 
Catawbas  were  settled  in  the  northern  part  of  the  .state,  and  still 
keep  part  of  their  original  possessions,  at  present  occupying  a  tract 
of  country  15  miles  square,  on  ea.ch  side  of  Catawba  river.  They 
nre  fast  decreasing.  Of  the  28  original  tribes,  26  have  entirely 
disappeared. 

Religion.  In  this  state  there  are  10  Episcopal  churches,  o  of 
■which  are  in  the  city  of  Charleston,  and  16  clergymen  of  this  de- 
jiomination,  4  of  whom  have  no  cures.     They  have  a  bishop. 

The  Presbyterians  of  different  descriptions  are  organized  in  five 
presbyteries,  viz.  The  presbytery  of  Charleston,  the  most  ancient 
in  the  state,  consisting  of  5  churches  ;  two  in  the  western  pa'A  of 
the  state,  consisting  of  more  than  20  ministers,  who  have  in  thtir 
connexion  more  than  60  congregations  ;  another  presbytery,  recent- 
ly formed,  embracing  several  churches  in  Georgia,  with  a  number 
in  the  lower  parts  of  Carolina ;  and  a  presbytery  of  seceders,  con- 
sisting of  9  ministers,  and  having  under  their  care  22  congrega- 
tions. The  first  and  last  e:fcepted,  these  presbyteries  are  in  con- 
nexion with  the  general  assembly  of  the  Presbyterian  church. 

The  Baptists  have  5  associations,  consisting  of  100  ministers; 
130  churches,  10,500  communicants,  and  about  75,500  adherents.* 

The  Independents  or  Congregationalists  have  7  churches,  and 
6  ministers. 

The  Methodists  have  26  travelling,  and  upwards  of  90  local, 
preachers,  who  preach  about  18,000  sermons  annually,  for  a  connr- 
pcnsation  of  S20S0.t  They  have  about  200  stations  for  preaching; 
■which  cost,  on  an  average,  but  about  S  ••'^5  each. 

Beside  the  above,  there  are  a  few  German  and  French  Protestants. 
Quakers,  Roman  Catholics,  and  Jews.  The  greater  part  of  these 
denominations  reside  in  the  city  of  Charleston. 

**  RaiBsay's  Hist,  vol,  ii.  p.  25,  28.  J-  Ibid.  p.  3!. 


SGUTH-CAROLINA.  243 

Government.  The  legislature  consists  of  a  senate  and  house  of 
representatives.  The  senate  is  composed  of  43  members,  chosen 
every  4  years,  by  districts.  A  senator  must  be  a  free  white  man, 
30  years  of  age,  must  have  been  a  citizen  and  resident  in  the  state 
the  5  preceding  years  ;  and,  if  a  resident  in  the  district,  must  be 
worth  SOO/.  stei'ling  ;  if  not,  1000/.  Half  of  the  senators  are  cho- 
sen every  2  years.  The  house  of  representatives  consists  of  124 
members,  chosen  every  two  years,  by  districts.  A  representative 
must  be  a  free  white  man,  21  years  of  age  ;  must  have  been  a  citi- 
zen and  resident  in  the  state  the  three  preceding  years  ;  and,  if  a 
resident  in  the  district,  must  be  worth  500*acres  of  land  and  10  vc- 
groes^  or  a  real  estate  valued  at  15U/.  sterling  ;  if  not  a  resident,  he 
must  have  a  freehold  worth  500/. 

The  governor  is  chosen,  every  two  years,  by  a  joint  ballot  of 
botli  houses.  He  can  hold  the  office  only  two  years  in  six.  He 
inust  be  30  years  of  age,  and  possessed  of  a  real  estate  worth  1500/. 
sterling  ;  and,  must  have  been  a  citizen  and  resident  10  years.  A 
lieutenant  governor  is  chosen  for  the  same  time  and  must  have 
the  same  qualifications.  The  governor  has  power  to  pardon,  ex- 
cept in  cases  of  impeachment. 

Pojiulaiion.  The  following  numbers  are  the  result,  partly  of 
estimates  made  at  the  time,  and  partly  of  actual  enumerations. 


5,500  whites  r  140,178  whites'] 

14,000  whites  i790-j  107,094  slaves  I  249,073 

14,000  whites  >  „^^  (_      1,801  freebl.  J 

18,000  blacks  5  -"-'"""  r  196,255  whitesl 

7'o33  whites  >  „_  „„„  ISOO^j  146,151    slaves  I  345,591 

22,000  blacks  3     ''^''''  |      3, 185  freebl  J 

30,000  r  2 14, 196  whites") 

40,000  whites  ^  ISIO-j  196,365  slaves  I  415,1 15 

90,000  blacks  5  ^ """'"""  [^      4,554freebl.J 
The  items  of  the  census  of  1810  were  as  follow  ; 

males.  females.                    total. 

Under  16  years  of  age     56,862  54,126                   110,988 

Between  16  and  45            41,421  39,557                     80,978 

45  and  upwards                  11,304  10,926                      22,230 


Total  109,587  104,609  214,196 

The  increase  in  the  first  10  years  was  96,5 18  ;  in  the  second  10, 
69,524.  The  proportion  of  blacks  to  whites  is  much  greater  in 
.this,  than  in  any  other  state.     It  is  nearly  as  20  to  21. 

Militia.  The  militia  is  divided  into  2  grand  divisions,  each  com- 
manded by  a  major  general.  These  divisions  comprehend  9  brig- 
ades, 39  regiments  of  infantry,  8  regiments  and  a  squadron  of  cav- 
alry, and  1  regiment  and  a  battalion  of  artillery,  besides  artillery 
companies,  Avhich  are  attached  to  some  of  the  re  gimrnts  of  infantry. 
The  whole  amounts  to  about  40,000  men. 

Revenue.  The  average  of  taxes  annually  collected,  is  abouj 
135,000  dollars,  and  the  state  receives  from  other  sources  about 
175,000  dollars,  making  in  the  whole  a  revenue  of  §310,000.  The 
(expenditures  on  an  average  amount  to  about  220,000.     In   lB04j 


1^44  SOUTH-CAROLINA. 

the  state  had  a  balance  in  their  treasury  of  g75 4,775  ;  300,000  of 
which  they  invested  in  the  stock  of  their  state  bank,  and  with  part 
of  the  remainder  they  endowed  the  college  at  Columbia.  The  le- 
gal rate  of  interest  in  this  titate  is  7  per  cent.  The  taxes  are  on 
lands  and  negroes. 

Manners  and  Customs.  In  the  back  country,  the  farmers  have 
fevs^  slaves,  cultivate  their  own  lands,  and  live  on  plantations.  In 
the  low  country  almost  all  the  whites  live  on  plantations.  The  on* 
ly  laborers  here  are  slaves,  who  constitute  njore  than  two  thirds  of 
the  inhabitants.  The  evils  necessarily  attendant  on  slavery  are  of 
course  extensively  felt. 

Among  the  virtues  of  the  Carolinians,  Dr.  Ramsay  enumerates 
the  love  of  liberty,  hospitality,  charity,  and  a  sense  of  honor.  Among 
the  vices,  drunkenness,  a  disposition  to  contract  debts,  and  indo- 
lence. Hunting,  both  as  a  business  and  a  diversion,  has  always 
been  useful  and  fashionable  in  Carolina.  Dancing  is  a  favorite  dir 
version  among  the  young  people.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  music, 
and  many  attain  to  excellence.  The  complexion  of  the  Carolinians 
inclines  to  a  greater  degree  of  sallowness,  than  is  common  in  more 
northern  latitudes. 

JJteratrirt.  In  1785,  three  colleges  were  constituted  in  this  states 
on  the  same  day,  one  at  Charleston,  one  at  Winnsborough,  and  the 
other  at  Cambridge  ;  but  they  are  colleges  in  name  only,  in  truth 
only  grammar  schools.  In  1795,  a  college  was  established  in  the 
town  of  Beaufort.  Its  funds  amount  to  between  60,000  and  70,000t 
dollars.  It  has  many  natural  advantages  favorable  to  the  proper 
education  of  youth. 

The  assembly,  in  1801,  passed  a  law  for  building  and  endovving 
a  college  at  the  seat  of  government,  by  the  name  of  South-Carolina 
College.  It  is  under  the  management  of  a  board  of  trustees  con- 
sisting of  the  governor,  judges,  and  other  great  officers  of  state, 
and  of  13  other  gentlemen,  selected  for  their  character  and  talents. 
The  instructers  are  a  president,  three  professors,  and  two  tutors. 
An  extensive  library  and  handsome  philosophical  apparatus  have 
been  presented  by  the  state.  The  legislature  has  endowed  this 
seminary  with  an  annual  income  of  S6000,  and  is  constantly  hold- 
ing out  to  it  a  fostering  hand.  The  college  building  is  handsome, 
and  will  accomodate  90  students.  This  is  their  present  number. 
The  president's  house  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  state,  and  those  of 
the  professors  are  very  handsome.  The  institution  is  now  flour- 
ishing. 

There  are  academics  at  Charleston,  two  in  Newbury  district, 
one  at  Spartanburgh,  a  most  respectable  one  in  Abbeville  district, 
and  another  at  Pincville,  in  St.  Stephen's  district,  and  others  in  va- 
rious parts  of  the  state.  There  is  a  general  and  increasing  desire 
among  the  Inhabitants  to  give  an  education  to  tluir  children.  For- 
merly those  of  wealthy  parents  were  sent  in  considerable  numbers 
to  Oxford  and  Cambridge,  in  England  ;  now  many  more  are  sent 
to  Harvard  and  Yale. 

Cities  and  Toions.  Charleston  city  is  the  largest  place  in  the 
State,  and  in  the  whole  country  south  of  Baltimprc  j  and  the  i^ftb 


SOUTH-CAROLINA.  24p 

in  size  in  the  United  States.  It  is  built  on  a  peninsula,  between 
Asbley  and  Cooper  rivers,  which  unite  imniLdiaiely  below  the  city, 
and  form  a  capacious  and  convenient  liarbor.  The  tide  here  rises 
usually  6^  feet.  The  Ashley  is  2 100  yards  wide  opposite  the  town, 
and  the  Cooper  1400.  Both  are  deep,  and  navigable  for  large  ves- 
sels. The  town  is  8  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  its  site  is  elevated 
but  a  few  feet  above  the  height  of  spring  tides.  It  is  a  mile  and  a 
quarter  long,  and  three  quarters  wide.  The  streets  extend  east 
and  west  between  the  two  rivers  ;  others  intersect  them  nearly  at 
right  angles,  from  N.  to  S.  They  are  from  35  to  70  feet  in  width. 
The  new  houses  are  of  brick,  and  many  of  them  are  elegant.  Thct 
public  buildings  are  an  exchange,  a  slatehousc,  an  armory,  a  poor 
house,  and  an  orphan  house  ;  2  Independent  or  Congregaiional 
churches,  3  Episcopalian,  2  Presbyterian,  2  Methodist,  1  German 
Lutheran,  1  Baptist,  1  orphan  house  church,  1  French  Protestant, 
I  Friends,  1  Catholic,  and  1  synagogue.  One  of  the  Ccngrega- 
tioiial  churches  is  an  elegant  brick  edifice,  built  in  the  form  of  a 
circle,  the  inner  diameter  of  which  is  83  feet.  The  population  oi 
the  city  in  1790,  was  16,359;  in  1800,20,473;  and  in  1810,24,711  ; 
viz.  1 1,668  whites,  and  13,143  blacks,  of  whom  1  1,671  were  slaves, 
Unaifected  hospitality,  affability,  and  politeness,  are  characteristics 
oi[  the  respectable  people  of  Charleston.  Lat.  32  44  30  N.  Ion- 
80  39   45  W.  538  miles  S  by  W.  from  Washington. 

Georgetow^n  is  on  a  point  of  land  between  Sampit  creek  and 
Georgetown  bay,  about  13  miles  from  the  sea.  Vessels,  drawinij 
more  than  12  feet  v/ater,  cannot  enter  its  harbor.  The  public 
buildings  are  a  courthouse,  gaol,  and  3  churches  for  Episcopalians, 
Methodists,  and  Baptists.  The  number  of  dwelling  houses  is  a- 
bout  120,  of  families  about  150,  and  the  population,  in  1810,  was 
about  2000j  of  whom  between  6  and  700  were  whites. 

Columbia,  tlie  seat  of  government,  stands  on  the  cast  side  of 
theCongaree,  just  below  the  confluence  of  Saluda  and  Broad  rivers, 
is  laid  out  in  a  regular  manner,  contains  about  100  houses,  and  is 
a  very  flourishing  town.  The  public  buildings  are  2.  college  edi- 
iices  for  the  students,  and  2  others  for  college  officers,  astatehouse, 
courthouse,  meeting  house,  and  gaol.  It  is  115  miles  N.  W.  of 
Charleston.     Lat.  34   1  N. 

Beaufort,  on  Port  Royal  island,  contains  an  Episcopal,  a  Bap- 
tist, and  an  Independent  church,  and  about  120  houses.  It  is  70 
miles  southward  of  Charleston. 

C-AMDEN,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Waterce,  35  m.ilcs  N.  E.  of  Co- 
lumbia, contains  a  Presbyterian,  a  Methodist,  aiid  Baptist  church, 
a  courthouse,  and  gaol,  and  about  150  houses.  It  is  the  largest 
inland  town  in  Carolina. 

Inland  JVavi!fa(io7i.  A  canal,  22  miles  in  length,  connects  San--, 
tee  and  Cooper  rivers.  The  ascent,  from  the  Santee  to  the  high-. 
est  intervening  ground,  is  35  feet,  and  is  effected  by  4  locks  ;  thes^ 
descent  to  the  Cooper  is  68  feet,  and  is  effected  by  9  locks.  The 
locks  are  of  brick  and  stone,  and  are  60  feet  long,  by  10  wide.  The 
•canal  is  20  feet  broad  at  the  bottom,  ai.I  35  at  tl)e  top  ;  and  ha.s. 


^46  SOUTH-CAROLINA.  ^ 

A  feet  depth  of  water,  ndmittino;  boals  of  20  tons.     The  espence 
:was  Sf>5'J,667.     The  loll  docs  not  exceed  SI 3,000. 

Manufactures.  Domestic  manufactures,  in  the  upper  distnctSj 
nearly  supply  the  wants  of  families,  but  none  are  made  for  export- 
ation, articles  of  iron  excepted. 

Commerce.  The  exports  from  this  state,  in  1811,  amounted  to 
S4jS6i,279.  Cotton  is  the  capital  article,  and  exceeds  in  value  all 
tiie  ethers.  Rice  is  now  of  the  second  consequence.  At  the  com- 
mencement of  the  American  revolution,  the  average  quantity  an- 
nually exported  was  about  142,000  barrels.  The  annual  export 
since  the  introduction  of  cotton  has  been  about  100,000  barrels. 
The  other  articles  are  lumber,  pitch,  tar,  turpentine,  beef,  pork,  ip- 
djgo,  and  tobacco.  Of  this  last  article,  y,646  hogsheads  were  ex^ 
ported  in  IT^g. 

Ciimate,  The  climate  of  South  Carolina  is  a  medium  between 
that  of  tropical  countries  and  of  cold  temperate  liilitudes.  It 
resembles  the  former  in  the  degree  and  duration  of  its  summer 
heat,  and  the  latter  in  its  variableness.  Since  1791  the  difference 
between  the  coolest  and  warmest  summers  has  ranged  between  88 
and  9  3,  and  the  difference  between  the  mildest  and  coldest  winters 
has  ranged  on  a  few  particular  days  from  50  to  17.  The  degree 
of  heat  in  Charleston  is  considerably  less  than  in  the  interior  west- 
ern country.  April,  May,  and  June  are  in  common  the  healthiest 
months,  with  the  exception  of  the  cholera  infantum  and  bowel  dis- 
eases among  children.  August  and  September  are  the  most  sick- 
ly ;  April  and  ISIay  the  driest ;  June,  July,  and  August  the  wettest  j 
November  the  plcasantest.  November  and  December  are  the 
best  months  in  the  year  for  strangers  tp  arrive  in  Carolina.  Such 
should  calculate  so  as  not  to  make  their  first  appearance  either  in 
summer  or  in  the  face  of  it,  or  in  the  first  months  of  autumn.  In 
winter  the  mountains  near  the  western  boundary  of  the  state  are 
often  covered  with  snow.  From  thence  to  the  sea  shore  snow  but 
seldom  falls  so  as  to  cover  the  ground,  except  on  extraordinary  oc- 
casions. In  jNIarch  and  April  the  planting  season  begins  and  con- 
tinues till  June.  In  July  and  August  the  heats  increase,  and  the 
iieavy  rains  set  in  attended  at  times  with  severe  thunder  and  light- 
ning. September  is  the  principal  month  of  harvest.  In  October 
jlhe  weather  is  generally  rnikl  and  clear.  About  the  middle  of  this 
month  frosts  commence  and  generally  terminate  in  the  month  of 
March.  Sharp  cold  weather  seldom  commences  before  Decem- 
ber, though  in  November,  the  evenings  and  mornings  are  generally 
cool. 

The  average  annual  fall  of  rain  for  7  years  (1795 — 1801)  was 
57'14  inches.  The  quantity,  in  1799,  the  most  abundant  year,  was 
83-4  inches;  that  in  1800,  the  least  abundant,  was  38-6. 

In  the  upper  country  the  climate  is  much  like  that  of  New-Eng- 
land ;  except  that  it  is  less  severe  in  v/inlcr,  and  rather  warmer  in 
summer.     Since  lS(iO  it  has  been  less  healthy  than  formerly. 

Face  of  t lie  Country.  Tliis  state  is  sometimes  divided,  as  to  its 
surface,  into  Low  and  Upper  country ;  and  sometimes  into  Lowj 
Middle,  and  Upo'V".     T.he  Upper  country  includes  all  the  lane! 


SbUTH-CAROLIN^A.  Wf 

atove  the  falls  of  the  rivers;  the   Middle  includes  a  tract  of  40 
miles  broad,  lying-  below  this  ;  and  the  Low  is  intended  sometime?'^ 
to  comprise  ihe  Middle  and  all  the  country  below  it ;  and  some- 
times only  the  country  between  the  Middle  and  the  sea  coast.   Ac- 
cording to  the   second  division,  the  Low  country  reaches  frnnii  the 
sea  about  80  miles.     This  tract  is  an  almost  absolute  level,  entire- 
ly destitute  of  stones,  and  produces  extensive  forcstsof  pitch  pines, 
which  are  caWed  pine  barrens.     In  this  distance,  by  a  gradual   as- 
cent from  the  sea  coast,  the  land  rises  about  190  feet.     Mere  if  you 
proceed  in  a  W.  N.  W.   course  from   Charleston,   commences  a 
curiously  uneven  country.     The  traveller  is  constantly  ascendinc: 
or  descending   little  sand  hills,  which  nature   seems  to  have  disu- 
nited in  a  frolic.     This  continues  till  you   arrive  at  a  place  called 
T/ie  Ridge,  140  miles  from  Charleston,  a  remarkable  tract  of  higi> 
ground,  as  you   approach   it  from  the    sea,   but  level   as  you  ad- 
vance northwest  from  its  summit.     It  is  a  fine  high,   l^ealthy  belt 
of  land,  well  watered,  and  of  a  good  soil,  and   extends  from    the 
Savannah,  to  Broad  river,  in  about  G  30  W.  Ion.  from  Philadelp'.iia. 
Beyond  this  ridge,  commences  a  country  exactly  resembling  the 
northern  statca,  or  like  Devonshire  in  England,  or  Languedoc  in 
France.     This,  by  way  of  disiinction,  is  called  the  Copper  country, 
■where  are  different  modes,   and  different  articles   of  cultivation ; 
where  the  manners  of  the  people,  and  even  their  language,  have  a 
different  tone.     The  land  still  rises  by  a  gradual  ascent ;  each  suc- 
ceeding hill  overlooks  that  which  immediately  precedes  it,  till  hav- 
ing advanced\220  miles  in  a  northwest   direction  from  Charleston, 
the  elevation  of  the  land  above  the  sea  coast  is  found  by  mensura- 
tion to  be  800  feet. 

Soil  and  Agrlr.ulture.  The  river  swamps  and  the  marshes  in 
the  Middle  and  Low  country  are  excellent  rice  land.  'These  tv.-o 
districts^  with  these  exceptions  (and  the  exceptions  bear  but  a 
small  proportion  *,o  the  whole  extent)  arc  a  san<ly,  barren  soil,  not 
worth  cultivation  o*  fencing.  The  soil  of  the  upper  country  is  gen- 
erally strong  and  productive.  It  is  a  dark,  fertile  mould,  restini^ 
generally  on  a  stratum  of  reddish  brown,  tenacious  clay,  and  some- 
times on  a  stratum  cf  marie. 

Cotton,  the  great  staple  of  the  state,  is  of  three  varieties.  The 
Black  seed  cotton  is  grown  on  the  sea  islands  and  in  tlie  low  coun- 
try. It  produces  a  tine,  white  fleece,  of  a  silky  appearance^  very 
strong,  and  of  a  long,  good  staple.  Green  seed  or  upland  cotton' 
iS  princijx\lly  cultivated  in  the  middle  and  upp^r  country;  also,  in 
the  lower  country,  on  some  tide  lands,  and  salt  water  marsheo,  af- 
ter they  have  been  elfectUHlly  reclaimed.  The /zaw/C-rfrz  (,'otion  is 
grown  chiefly  in  the  middle  and  upper  countt  y,  \.>j\-  family  use.  The 
color  of  the  fleece  is  that  of  nankeen  cloth,  which  it  retains  as  long 
as  it  is  worn.  The  growth  of  rice  is  confined  ahnost  exclusively 
to  the  low  country.  The  best  tide  lands  produce  2400  pounds  of 
clean  rice  to  the  acre,  and  the  tide  plantations  generally  from  120(' 
to  1.100  pounds.     The  inland  plantations  prodiKe  from  '^f^O  to  ]50^« 


245  SOUTH-CAROLINA. 

pounds  to  the  acre.     The  kinds  of  rice  are  the  whiter  gold  Guirteej 
bearded,  short  gra'mcdy  and  hr^hland  rice.* 

Tobacco  and  indiqo  were  foimerly  much  cultivated  in  this  state  i- 
at  preseni  very  Utile  attention  is  paid  to  them.  The  crop  of  maize 
15  large.  It  is  cultivated  in  each  of  the  three  districts,  but  chiefly- 
in  the  upper.  The  best  lands,  on  the  banks  of  the  large  rivers*, 
yield  from  50  to  70  bushels  ;  the  lands  in  the  upper  country,  gen- 
erally, from  30  to  50  ;  those  in  the  middle  and  lower,  from  10  to 
30.  The  culture  of  grapes,  tigs,  and  of  the  olive  have  been  par- 
tially introduced,  and  might  be  made  productive.  Hemp  and  flax 
are  grown  in  the  upper  country,  for  domestic  use.  Wheat  there 
yields  15  bushels;  and  in  the  best  lands,  from  20  to  25.  Barley 
has  been  successfully  cultivated,  and  some  exported,  it  has  yield- 
ed from  50  to  70  bushels  an  acre. 

Rivtrs.  Every  part  of  the  state  is  intersected  with  rivers.  Its 
side,  which  borders  on  the  sea,  is  watered  by  the  Waccam  aw,  Pc- 
dee.  Black  river,  Santee,  Wando,  Cooper,  Ashley,  Stono,  Edisto, 
Asheppo,  Combahec,  Coosaw,  Broad,  and  Savannah  i-ivers»  Some 
of  these  have  two  mouths,  others  have  several  heads  or  branches- 
Most  of  these  rivers  have  a  margin  of  swamp  extending  from 
half  a  mile  to  three  miles.  The  short  ones  head  in  swamps,  but 
the  long  ones  in  the  mountains  or  other  high  grounds.  They  all 
run  in  a  southeastern  direction  from  their  heads  to  the  sea,  which  if 
extended,  would  cross  the  mountains  and  vallies  in  an  acute  angle 
to  the  south  of  eas';.  Waccamaw  river  takes  its  rise  in  North- 
Carolina,  and  empties  into  Georgetown  bay.  Broad,  Coosaw,  Port 
Royal,  and  other  short  rivers  are  properly  arms  of  the  sea.  Their 
■waters  are  deep,  and  their  navigation  safe.  Broad  and  Port  Royal 
rivers  can  safely  and  conveniently  accommodate  a  large  navy. 
They  insulate  a  great  part  of  Beaufort  district,  aud  by  their  wind- 
ings and  iunciions  form  islands.  These  generally  are  suitable  to 
the  culture  of  cotton  or  indigo. 

Savannah  river  is  bold  and  deep,  and  its  navi [Ration  extends  from 
the  sea  to  Augusta  for  boats  of  70  tons.  At  this  place  the  falls  of 
the  river  commence.  Beyond  it  the  navigatif  m  is  continued  for 
60  miles  to  Vienna  for  boats  of  30  tons  or  mor  e. 

The  Santee  and  Pedee  have  already  been  described. 

Harbors.  Tne  only  harbors  of  note  are  f.hose  of  Charleston, 
Port  Royal,  and  Georgetown.  The  bar  at  the  entrance  of  Winyaw 
bay,  wliich  leads  to  Georgetown,  does  not  admit  vessels  drawing 
more  than  12  feet  water  ;  and  is  in  many  reapects  a  very  danger- 
ous pla  ;e.  Charleston  harbor  is  spacious,  convenient,  and  safe. 
It  is  for  med  by  the  junction  of  Ashley  and  Cooper  rivers.  Its  en- 
trance i  1  guarded  by  fort  Johnson.  Twelve  miles  from  the  city  is 
a  bar,  o-7cr  which  arc  four  channels  ;  one  by  the  name  of  Ship 
channel,  has  18  feet  water;  another  16^;  the  other  two  are  for 
smaller  a  vessels.  The  tides  rise  from  5  to  3  feet.  Port  Royal  has 
an  excel)  ent  harbor,  of  sufficient  extent  to  contain  the  largest  fleet 
in  the  wo  rid. 

•  Rice  ■«  'as  introduced  into  Carolina,  from  Madagascar,  by  gov.  Thomas 
Smith,  (wh(  ne  descendants  are  among  the  most  respectable  people  in  this  state) 
about  the  y  »r  1693. 


GEORGIA^  549 

Monntains.  Table  mountain  in  height  exceeds  3000  feet.  Its 
bide  is  an  abrupt  precipice  of  solid  rock  300  yards  deep,  and  nearly- 
perpendicular. 

Ooienoy  mountain  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Table  mountain.  From 
it  a  cataract  of  water  descends  6  or  700  feet.  This  forms  the 
southern  head  branch  of  Saluda  river. 

Oconee  mountain,  near  the  head  waters  of  Keowee  and  Tugo- 
loo  rivers,  is  5  or  600  yards  above  the  adjacent  country.  From  it 
there  is  a  most  beautiful  prospect  of  Georgia  and  of  the  Cherokee 
mountains. 

Glassey  and  Hogback  mountains  are  situated  near  the  boundary 
line  of  Greenville  and  Spartanburg  districts.  Waters  flow  from 
them  which  form  the  sources  of  the  Tyger  and  Pacolet  rivers. 

Mineralogy.  Iron  oie  of  an  excellent  quality  abounds  in  the 
upper  country,  particularly  in  the  districts  of  Pendleton,  Green- 
ville, Spartanburg,  and  York.  Red  and  ijellow  ochres  are  found  in 
\oik  (iistiict ;  limestone  at  Eutaw  springs,  near  Orangeburgh,  and 
on  the  banks  of  Thicketty  creek,  also  on  King's  mountains  in  York. 
district ;  mill  stones  at  Beaver  creek  on  the  Catawba  ;  asbestos  and 
slate  near  the  headwaters  of  Lynch's  creek  ;  a  quarry  q^  grey  stone, 
resembling  freestone,  at  Beaver  creek  ;  soa/i  stones  in  York  dis- 
trict ;  rock  crystal^  white  jlint.^  fuller's  earth  and  eniery^  occasionally 
in  the  middle  and  upper  country  ;  marlc  in  the  lower  ;  lead  ore  of 
a  rich  quality,  in  the  Cherokee  mountains  ;  copper  ore  in  several 
places. 

Islands.  The  sea  coast  is  bordered  with  a  chain  of  fine  sea  isl- 
ands, around  which  the  sea  flows,  opening  an  excellent  inland  nay- 
igation,  for  the  conveyance  of  produce  to  market. 


GEORGIA. 

iLxtent.  THIS  state  lies  between  lat.  30  42  and  35°  ^4". ;  and 
between  Ion.  80  20  and  85  54  W.  Its  length  is  270  miles.  Its 
breadth,  at  Savannah,  is  250  ;  on  the  southern  boundary,  170;  and 
on  the  northern,  120.     It  contains  about  62,000  square  miles. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  by  the  parallel  of  35°  which  divides  the 
stale  from  Tennessee  and  North-Carolina  ;  on  the  N.  E.  by  Savan- 
nah river,  which  separates  it  from  South-Carolina  ;  on  the  E,  by 
the  Atlantic  ;  on  the  S.  by  East-Floriiia  ;  on  tlie  S.  W.  corner,  for 
aljout  30  miles,  l)y  West-Florida  ;  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Missisip- 
pi  territory.  The  southern  boundary  is,  as  far  as  it  goes,  the  same 
wit'n  that  of  the  United  States.  The  western  is,  more  minutely, 
for  a  little  distance  the  river  Tennessee  ;  then  a  straight  line,  com- 
mencing at  the  Indian  town  of  Nickajack,on  that  river,  and  passing 
in  a  direction  nearly  S.  E.  by  S.  till  it  meets  the  Chatahouche,  at 
the  mouLh  of  a  small  river,  in  lat.  32  25  N. 

Divisions.  That  part  of  the  state,  which  is  settled,  is  divided 
into  4  districts,  and  3S  counties. 


250 


Eastern  District 
Middle  District 
Western  District 
Soutliern  District 


GEORGIA. 

Tov/ns.     Free  persons. 

Slaves. 

Totai; 

9                  12,260 

26,999 

39,259^ 

9                 56,593 

26,109 

62,702 

9                 55,176 

32,087 

87,263 

11                 43,186 

20,023 

63,209 

Grand  Total       38  147,215  105,218        252,433 

This  state  is  entitled  to  6  representatives  to  congress. 

The  eastern  district  comprehends  the  sea  coast ;  the  southern 
lies  W.  of  it ;  the  middle  lies  N.  of  the  southern,  and  N.  W.  of  the 
eastern  ;  and  the  western  N.  W.  of  the  middle. 

J\fa7nc'3.  The  French  and  Spaniards  early  g-ave  the  name  of 
Florida  to  a  large  undefined  tract  of  country,  reaching  northward 
from  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  The  English,  at  the  same  time,  gave  it 
the  name  of  Fir/^-mic,  and  South-Virginia.  The  name  of  Carolana 
was  given,  in  1630,  to  all  the  country  south  of  lat.  36°  ;  and  that  of 
Carolina  to  the  country  between  36°  and  31°  N.  in  1663.  This 
state  Vv'as  included  under  each  of  these  territories.  Its  present 
name   was  given  to  it,  in  1732,  in  honor  of  George  II. 

History.  The  early  history  may  be  seen  under  that  of  South- 
Carolina. 

In  1732,  the  country  between  the  Savannah  and  Alatamaha  was 
granted  by  George  II.  to  gen.  Oglethorpe  and  others.  He  with 
40  others  landed  at  Yamacrav/  bluff,  the  site  of  the  city  Savannah, 
on  the  1st  of  February,  1733. 

In  1752,  the  trustees  surrendered  the  province  to  the  king.  A 
general  court  was  established,  in  1755. 

In  1763,  George  III.  annexed  the  country  between  the  Alatama- 
ha and  St  Mary's  to  the  province. 

Georgia,  in  1775,  acceded  to  the  union  of  the  colonies  and  sent 
deputies  to  the  congress. 

In  February,  1777,  the  first  state  constitution  was  adopted,  and 
the  then  existing  parishes  were  formed  into  counties. 

The  country  was  invaded,  in  1778,  by  a  body  of  troops  from  Flor- 
ida, who  burned  a  few  buildings,  and  carried  off  some  property  ;. 
and,  soon  aflerv/ards,  by  a  Britivh  army  under  col.  Campbell,  v/l)o 
took  Savannah,  Dec.  29.  Count  D'Estaing  made  an  unsuccessful 
attempt  to  retake  it  in  October,  1779.  The  town  and  slate  were 
evacuated  by  the  enemy  in  July,  1782. 

The  second  constitution  was  adopted  in  Riay,  1785,  and  amended- 
in  May,  1789. 

In  1795,  the  legislature  sold,  to  several  companies,  about 
22,000,000  acres  o^  the  western  territory  for  ^500,000,  v,'hich  was 
paid  into  the  treasury.  The  original  purchasers  soon  after  sold  it, 
at  an  advanced  price,  to  vrwious  gentlemen,  chicfiy  in  the  middle 
and  eastern  states.  The  next  year,  the  succeeding  legislature  de- 
clared the  sale  unconstitutional,  and  ordered  the  records  of  it  to  be 
burnt ;  but  kept  the  money.  This  was  one  of  the  most  disgraceful 
acts,  which  perhaps  was  ever  perpetrated  by  a  free  government. 

In  May,  1798,  the  present  couotitution  was  adopted. 

In  1^02,  by  a  treaty  held  at  fort  Wilkinson,. on  the  Oconee,  the 


GEORGIA.         ,  251 

Creeks  ceded  to  the  United  States  (vvhicli  lias  been  since  ceded  to 
Georgia)  a  large  tract  of  country,  embracing  the  S.  W.  corner  of 
Geoi'gia. 

Religio7i.  The  inhabitants  of  this  state,  -who  profess  the  Chris- 
tian ixlij^ion,  are  of  the  Presbyterian,  Episcopalian,  Bap.ist,  and 
Metliddist  denominations.  The  two  lat^:^  are  much  the  most 
numerous.     They  have  but  few  regular  tuinislers  amonii;  them. 

Gover7ime7it.  The  legislature  is  styled  the  general  assembhj^ 
and  consists  of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives.  The  senate 
are  chosen  annually  by  counties,  one  Irom  each.  A  senator  must 
bt;  25  years  of  age,  possessed  of  a  real  estate  of  g500,  or  pay  taxes 
for  SlOOO  within  the  county,  and  have  been  a  citizen  of  the  United 
Slates  9  years,  and  of  this  3,  and  have  resided  within  the  county 
the  year  preceding.  The  representatives  are  chosen  annually  by 
counties  ;  each  sending  at  least  one,  and  none  more  than  four.  A 
representative  must  be  2 1  years  of  age  ;  possessed  of  a  freehold 
worth  g250,  or  of  S500  taxable  property,  v/ithin  the  county,  and 
have  been  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  7  years,  and  of  tiiis  3,  and 
have  resided  the  preceding  year  in  the  county.  The  aasembly 
meets  annually,  on  the  second  Tuesday  in  January. 

The  governor  is  chosen  for  two  years,  by  the  general  assembly. 
He  must  have  been  a  citizen  cf  the  United  States  12  years,  and  of 
this  state  6  years  ;  muse  be  30  years  of  age  ;  and  possessed  of  600 
acres  of  land  and  other  property  to  the  amount  of  g4000.  In  case  of 
his  absence,  resignation  or  death,  the  president  of  the  senate  is  ^ox- 
t.vnov  iiro  temfiore.  Ail  persons,  21  years  of  age,  who  have  paid 
taxes  one  year,  and  resided  in  the  county  the  6  montiis  previous  to 
the  election,  are  voters. 

Population.     The  population  of  Georgia  was  in  tlie  year 
1749  6,000 


6,000  r  102,261  whitc-i") 

{r52,886  whites!  1800-<     59,404  slaves  I 

^  29,264  slaves  }. 82,548  (_      1,019  freebl.  J 

145,414  whites'] 
105,218    slaves  I  252, 
i,80l  freebl. J 


irgo-j  29,264  slaves  f.  82,548 
(_       398  freebl.  J 


162,684 


The  items  of  the  census  of  18 10  were  as  follow  : 

white  males,     white  females.  total. 

Under  16  years  of  age         39,953  37,520  77,473 

Between  16  and  45  28,407  25,811  54,218 

45  and  upwards  7,485  6,238  13,723 


Total     75,845  69,569  145,414 

The  increase  in  the  number  of  whites  during  the  last  10  years 
was  43,153,  or  42^^^  per  cent. ;  that  of  the  blacks  was  46,596,  or 
71tV  P^^'  cent.  The  whites  were  greatly  increased  by  immigration. 
The  importation  qf  slaves,  during  the  whole  of  this  period,  was  for- 
bidden. 

Indians.  The  Creeks  cr  Ahiskogees  inhabit  the  western  half  of 
Georgia,  and  the  eastern  part  of  the  Missisippi  territory  ;  and  are 
the  most  numerous  tribe  in  the  union.  They  are  composed  of  va- 
rious hordes,  who,  after  a  series  of  bloody  wars,  united  against  the 


252  GEORGIA. 

Chactaws.  Their  union  rendered  tbem  victorious  over  the  Chac« 
taws,  and  formidable  to  all  the  other  tribes.  Their  wrhole  number 
some  years  since  amounted  to  17,280  ;  of  whom  5860  were  fights 
jng  men.  They  are  a  well  made,  hardy,  sagacious,  and  politic  peo- 
ple ;  extremely  jealous  of  their  rights;  and  averse  to  parting  with 
their  lands. 

Their  principal  towns  lie  in  lat.  32°.  They  are  settled  in  a  hilly 
but  not  mountainous  country.  The  soil  is  fruitful  in  a  high  de- 
gree, and  well  watered,  abounding  in  creeks  and  rivulets,  from 
whence  they  are  called  the  Creek  Indiaiis. 

Militia.  There  are  about  25,000  men  on  the  militia  rolls  in  this 
state,  in  general  badly  armed  and  disciplined. 

Manners  and  Customs.  No  general  character  will  apply  to  the 
inhabitants  at  large.  There  is  so  little  uniformity,  that  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  trace  any  governing  principles  among  them.  An  aversion 
to  labor  is  too  predominant,  owing  in  part  to  the  relaxing  heal  of 
the  climate,  and  partly  to  the  want  of  necessity  to  excite  industry. 
An  open  ami  friendly  hospitality,  particularly  to  strangers,  is  an  or- 
namental characteristic  ot  a  great  part  of  this  people. 

The  evils  of  slavery  are  felt  here,  and  by  many  lamented,  as  is 
the  case  in  ail  the  low  country  south  of  Delaware. 

A  considerable  number  of  gentlemen,  of  respectable  characters, 
have  lately  exerted  themselves  in  behalf  of  the  unfortunate  blacks, 
and  a  degree  of  infamy  is  now  attached  to  the  character  of  the  man 
%vho  is  guilty  of  cruelly  towards  them. 

Literature.  The  legiblature,  in  1785,  incorporated  what  is  call-. 
^d  the  University  of  Georgia.  It  consists  of  one  college  ;  and  of 
an  academy,  established,  or  to  be  established,  in  each  county.  This 
body  of  institutions  is  under  the  direction  of  a  corporation  called 
the  Senate  of  the  l/niversiti/,  and  composed  of  the  president  of  the 
xiniversity,  the  governor,  senate,  speaker  of  the  house  of  represent- 
atives, chief  justice,  and  a  number  of  gentlemen,  who  by  them-? 
selves  constitute  a  board  of  trustees  for  the  college,  and  are  per- 
manent members  of  the  senute  of  the  university.  The  college  is 
established  at  Athens,  in  Clarke  county.  The  president  of  the 
university  is  its  president.  It  has  also  several  professors  ;  but 
liitherto  has  not  flourished  equal  to  the  public  expectation. 

The  senate  of  the  university  appoints  a  board  of  commissioners, 
in  each  county,  tp  superintend  the  academy  of  the  county  and  the 
inferior  schools.  This  board  receives  its  instructions  from  the. 
senate,  and  is  accountable  to  it.  The  rector  of  each  academy  is 
an  officer  of  the  university  ;  and  is  appointed  by  the  president,  with 
the  advice  of  the  trustees,  and  commissioned  under  the  public  seal. 
The  funds,  for  the  support  of  these  institutions,  consist  of  about 
50,000  acres  of  land  of  an  excellent  quality,  and  about  6000/.  ster- 
ling in  bonds,  and  in  houses  and  town  lots  in  Augusta.  Public 
property,  also,  to  the  amount  of  1000/.  has  been  set  apart,  in  each 
county,  for  building  and  furnishing  an  academy. 

Chief  Towns.  Savannah  is  built  on  a  sandy  bluff,  40  feet  above 
low  water  mark,  and  18  miles  from  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river.    The  river  runs  N.  of  this  bluff  close  to  tlie  town  ;  on  the  S, 


GEORGIA.  25S 

lies  a  level  sandy  pine  barren,  two  miles  across  ;  on  the  E.  and  W- 
are  extensive  marshes.  The  jjublic  buildings  are  a  Presbyterian, 
Episcopalian,  Methodist,  Baptist,  Lutheran,  and  Catholic  church, 
and  a  synagogue,  a  court  house,  a  prison,  an  exchange,  a  poor* 
house,  an  academy,  and  barracks  calculated  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  300  troops.  There  is  a  strong,  well  built  battery  on  the 
S.  side  of  the  river,  at  five  fathom  hole,  3  miles  IjcIow  the  town, 
calculated  for  12  guns.  The  population  of  the  ciiy,  in  1787,  was 
about  2300;  in  1800,5146;  and  in  1810,  2490  whites,  2195  slaves, 
and  530  free  blacks:  in  all  5215. 

Augusta  is  built  on  a  fine  plain,  on  the  S.  W.  side  of  the  Sa-. 
vannah  river,  where  it  is  500  yards  wide,  and  deep  enough  for 
boats  of  50  tons,  127  miles,  by  land,  N.  W.  of  Savannah.  The 
streets  are  wide,  and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  public 
buildings  are  3  churches,  an  academy,  courthouse,  gaol,  and  mar- 
ket.    There  are  300  dwelling  houses,  and  2476  inhabitants. 

MiLLEDGEviLLE,  the  scat  of  government,  is  in  Baldwin  county, 
on  the  S.  W.  bank  of  the  Oconee,  160  miles  W.  N.  W.  from  Sa- 
vannah, and  80  W.  from  Augusta.     Population  1246. 

Athens,  on  the  S.  W.  side  of  the  N.  branch  of  tlie  Oconee,  has 
243  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  university. 

Manufactures.     The  following  articles   were  manufactured  in 
1810.     The  nominal  value  of  each  is  annexed. 
Cotton  cloth  yds.  3,591,612  Slj745,806-00 

Cotton  and  wool  441,205  275,761-25 

Woollen  5,591  4,192-25 

Cotton  and  flax  10,722  8,051-50 

Linen  1,790  1,79000 

Cotton  bagging  9,463  5,593-37-|- 


Total,  yards  of  cloth  4,060,383  g^2,04l,194-37| 

Rum,  peach  brandy, >         113.  545  ^32  408,841-50 

gin,  and  whiskey    5  «,"  *  ^  j^y 

Tanned  hides  17,521  70,084-00 

Beer  barrels  1,878  11,268-00 

82,533,387-87^ 
Beside  nails,  bar  iron,  gunpowder,  soap,  and  candles.  The  in- 
habitants, in  the  interior,  are  in  the  habit  of  manufacturing  their 
clothing  and  bedding  for  common  use.  This  practice  is  gaining; 
ground  near  the  coast. 

Commerce.     The  exports  from  the  state,  in  1810,  amounted  to 
552,424,63 1-17.     The  following  were  the  important  articles. 
Upland  cotton  lbs.  9,282,71 1  g  1,407,406-65 

Sea  island  do.  2,523,331  756,999-30 

Stained       do.  83,605  12,540-75 


Total    11,889,647  g2,176,946-70 

Rice                                       tierces  10,588  190,50400 

Lumber  23,559-56 

Tobacco                                    hhds.  283  10,98000 


•SJ54  GEORGIA. 

Canes  (1000)  608|-  3,649-20 

Deerskins  lbs.  12,120  3,030*00 

Maize  bushels  2,730  2,047-50 

Hogs  300  1,800-00 

Flour  barrels  190  1,520-00 

Tar  barrels  564  1,128  00 

Beef  barrels  106  1,060-00 

Jndigo  lbs,  788  788-00 

In  1811,  the  exports  amounted  to  g2, 568, 866. 
Climate,  The  disorders  of  the  climate  originate  pai'tly  from  the 
■badncssof  the  water,  which,  in  the  low  country,  is  generally  brack- 
ish ;  and  partly  from  the  noxious  vapors,  which  are  exhaled  from 
the  stagnant  waters,  and  putrid  matter  in  the  rice  swamps.  The 
long  continuance  of  warm  weather  also  produces  a  general  relaxa- 
tion of  the  nervous  system  ;  and,  as  a  great  proportion  of  the  in- 
habitants liave  no  necessary  labor  to  call  them  to  exercise,  indo- 
lence is  the  natural  consequence  ;  and  indolence,  especially  a- 
mongst  a  luxurious  people,  is  ever  the  parent  of  disease.  The 
immense  quantities  of  spirituous  liquors,  v/hich  are  used  to  correct 
the  brackishness  of  the  water,  form  a  species  of  intemperance, 
which  too  often  proves  ruinous  to  the  constitution. 

The  winters  in  Georgia  are  very  mild  and  pleasant.  Snow  is 
seldom  or  never  seen.  Vegetation  is  not  frequently  prevented  by 
severe  frosts.  Cattle  subsist  tolerably  well  through  the  winter, 
without  any  other  food  than  what  they  obtain  in  the  woods  and  sa- 
%rannas,  and  are  fatter  in  that  season  than  in  any  other.  In  the  hilly 
country,  which  begins  about  50,  and  in  some  places  100,  miles 
from  the  sea,  the  air  is  pure  and  salubrious,  and  the  water  plenty 
and  good.  From  June  to  September,  the  mercury  in  Fahrenheit's 
thermometer  commonly  fluctuates  from  76°  to  90°.  In  winter, 
from  40°  to  60'^.  The  most  prevailing  Aviuds  are  southwest  and 
east ;  in  winter  northwest.  The  east  wind  is  warmest  in  winter 
and  coolest  in  summer.  The  south  wind,  in  summer  and  fall  par- 
ticularly, is  damp,  sultry,  unelastic,  and  of  course  unhealthy. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  sea  islands  consist  of  a  species  of 
land  called  Immmuck^  which  produces  the  black-seed  cotton,  and 
of  salt  marsh.  A  narrow  margin  on  the  coast  of  the  main,  consists 
q\?>o  o^  hammuck  lands  and  salt  marshes.  Immediately  back  of 
this,  commence  the  pine  barrens,  interspersed  with  numerous  in- 
land sv.amps.  The  rivers  and  creeks  have,  also,  near  their  mouths, 
marshy  lands,  called  brackish  stvamjis,  and  higher  up,  river-tide 
swamps,  which  are  entirely  fresh.  Both  of  these,  and  the  salt 
marshes,  are  ovei'flowed  partially  or  wholly  at  the  return  of  the 
tide.  The  pine  barrens  reach  from  60  to  90  miles  from  the  coast. 
Beyond  this,  commences  a  country  resembling  the  middle  country 
of  South-Carolina,  which  is  from  30  to  40  miles  wide,  and  termi- 
iiates  at  the  lower  falls  of  the  rivers,  as  at  Augusta  on  the  Savan-f 
nah. 

At  the  termination  of  this  tract  commences  a  more  desirable  re- 
?;ion.  Here  the  long  leaved  pines  disappear,  and  the  short  leaved 
comiTicnce  }  but  the  oak  and  the  hickory  are  the  common  growlh, 


GEORGIA.  255- 

Farther  back  at  Washington  and  Grecnsborough,  the  fcriile  lands' 
are  again  broken  by  black-jack,  chesnut,  and  pine  ridges,  which 
become  more  frequent  and  extensive  near  the  mountains.  The 
only  tract,  that  can  be  called  mountainous,  is  close  to  the  northern 
line  of  the  state,  near  Tennessee.  It  will  be  observed  that  nothing 
is  here  said  of  the  country  S.  W.  of  the  Oakmulge  and  Alatamaha, 
except  near  the  sea.  Almost  the  whole  of  this  is  occupied  by  In- 
dians, and  has  not  been  thorou^^hly  explored. 

Soil  and  .igriculture.  The  lands  in  the  upper  country  are  of 
four  sorts.  The  best  ?ivc  ihc  loiv  grounds.  These  lie  on  rivers 
and  creeks  ;  and  have  a  soil,  that  is  a  mixture  of  rich  black  mould 
with  a  small  quantity  of  line  sand.  They  produce  abundantly 
Tuaizc,  potatoes,  pompions,  melons,  peas,  beans,  hemp,  llax,  tobac- 
co, cotton,  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables.  In  some  instances  100 
bushels  of  maize  have  been  raised  to  the  acre.  The  natural  growth 
of  this  land  is  walnut,  oak,  hickory,  poplar,  and  ash  ;  and  the  un- 
derwood is  the  cane  and  v/ild  pea-vine,  which  disappear  soon  after 
the  country  is  settled.  Land  of  the  second  quality,  called  mulatto- 
land.,  has  a  fine  dust  of  a  reddish,  yellov/  color,  approaching  to  a 
clay.  The  natural  growth  is  oak,  hickory,  dogwood,  and  poplar. 
It  bears  wheat,  rye,  oats,  bai-ley  and  all  the  productions  just  recited 
abundantly;  but  its  crops  suffer  seriously  from  a  drought,  and 
from  much  rain.  Crab-grass  grows  on  it  in  great  abundance,  and 
is  frequently  cut  aud  cured  for  hay.  Grey-land  is  of  the  third  qual- 
ity. The  soil  is  a  mixture  of  grey  mould,  with  a  small  portion  of 
coarse  sand,  on  a  foundation  of  clay.  Its  productions  are  the  same, 
■with  those  of  the  mulatto  lands,  but  less  plenteous.  It  is  not  how- 
ever so  liable  to  be  affected  by  the  extremes  of  wet  and  dry  weath- 
er. The  natural  growth  is  oak,  hickory,  and  short-leaved  pine, 
with  underwood  of  the  same  species.  The  fourth  quality,  called 
Aarrc72g,  is  poor  and  chiefly  unproductive.  It  yields,  however, 
great  quantities  of  coarse  grass  in  summer,  affording  abundant  pas- 
turage for  cattle  and  sheep.  The  soil  is  a  mixture  of  sand,  grey 
earth,  clay,  and  pebbles  ;  interspersed  with  quarries  of  stor.e  and 
rocks.  The  natural  growth  is  the  black-jack,  chesnut,  chinqua- 
pin and  short  leaved  pine.  These  four  descriptions  of  land  are 
found  in  the  western  district,  and  in  the  upper  half  of  tlic  middle 
and  southern,  composing  about  half  oTthe  settled  parts  of  the  slate. 
The  other  half  of  the  state,  including  the  eastern  district,  and  the 
low  country  of  the  middle  and  southern,  consists  almost  wholly  of 
pine  barrens. 

Rivers.  The  Savannah  is  the  N.  E.  boundary.  The  Tcnncs- 
see  touches  the  N.  W.  corner  of  the  state.  The  Alatamaha  runs 
its  whole  distance  in  Georgia.  The  Alibama  rises  in  Georgia. 
The  Chatahouche  rises  in  the  state  and  is  for  a  considerable  di!5- 
tancc  its  western  boundary.  These  have  already  been  described. 
The  Ogeechee  liCads  in  Greene  county,  IT'O  miles  from  the 
ocean,  and  50  from  Savannah  river.  It  v/inds  in  a  souiheasterlv  di- 
rection, about  200  miles  ;  and  eujpties  into  Hassabaw  sound,  "and 
15  S.  W.  nf  the  Savannaii. 
The  Satiila  heads  near  the  waters  of  Flint  river,  and  pursues  a. 


055  MISSISIPPI  TERRITOItY. 

crooked  course,  in  an  E.  S.  E.  direction,  to  the  Atlantic.  It  runar 
about  190  miles,  and  discharges  its  waters  against  Cumberland  isl- 
and. 

St.  Mary's  river,  a  part  of  the  southern  boundary  of  the  Unit- 
ed States,  heads  in  Okefonoke  swamp.  It  issues  from  the  south 
side,  near  the  centre  ;  and,  at  first  takes  a  southern  direction,  for  a 
considerable  distance  ;  then,  after  bending  eastward,  turns  to  the 
N.  and  proceeds  as  far  as  lat.  30  40.  Its  course  is  thence  nearly- 
due  E.  for  60  miles  to  the  ocean,  into  which  it  empties  between 
Amelia  and  Cumberland  islands. 

Flint  river  rises  in  the  country  of  the  Creeks.  It  runs  S.  and. 
then  S.  W.  more  than  200  miles  ;  and  in  the  S.  W".  corner  of  thu 
state,  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Chatahouche,  which  here  takes 
tiie  name  of  the  Apalachicola. 

Swamfis.  Okefonoco  is  an  Indian  word,  and  means  livinoj 
trround  or  shaking  ground.  This  swamp  has  been  said  to  be  300 
miles  in  circumference,  but  is  not  in  fact  more  than  180.  From 
it,  are  formed  the  two  rivers  called  by  the  Indians  Lockiacufco,  or 
St.  Mary's,  and  Alopahaw,  or  St.  Juan.  The  gentleman  who  fur- 
nished this  article,*  penetrated  tiiis  swamp  on  foot  about  10  or  12 
miles.  About  4  of  it  is  Baygall  swamp,  so  tliick  with  under  growth 
and  bamboo  briers,  as  to  be  almost  impenetrable.  The  remainder, 
cypress  ponds,  some  spots  of  rich  hammuck  and  pirje  barren  land, 
and  of  the  latter  there  is  no  doubt  so  much  that  a  passage  might 
be  found  quite  through  the  swamp,  dividing  those  ponds  connect- 
ed with  the  sources  of  the  two  rivers  before  mentioned.  The  only 
inhabitants  of  which  there  were  any  traces,  were  alligators,  snakes, 
frogs,  and  insects  ;  of  these  there  were  abundance.  From  the 
best  information  that  can  be  obtained  this  swamp  is  about  60  miles 
in  length  from  E.  to  W.  and  40  in  breadth. 

There  is  another  swamp  called  Cypress  swamp,  between  Flint 
and  Satitla  rivers,  of  which  wc  have  no  accurate  information. 

Mountains.  Cunaw-hee  mountain  is  the  southern  termination 
of  the  Blue  ridge.  It  rises,  like  a  sugar  loaf,  out  of  the  rich  plains 
of  Franklin  county,  and  is  about  1500  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  It  is  60  miles  from  the  N.  line  of  the  state.  The  ridge  north 
of  it  is  much  lower.  The  country  below  it  gradually  descends  in^ 
to  hills,  towards  the  headwaters  of  the  Oconee,  Oakmulge,  and 
Chatahouche  rivers.  Westward  of  this  range  are  some  'igh  lands, 
which  occasionally  rise  to  the  elevation  of  mountains,  but  we  have 
MO  particular  account  of  them. 


MISSISIPPI  TERRITORY. 

Extent.  MISSISIPPI  territory  extends  from  lat.  3 1"  to  35°  N. 
and  from  Ion.  84  4.'5  to  91  20  W.  It  is  340  miles  in  length,  from 
E.  to  W.  and  277  in  breadth  ;  containing  about  70jOOO  square 
miles. 

•  Capt.  Hugl)  M'Call. 


MISSISIPPI  TERRITORY.  25? 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  Tennessee,  from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  the  parallel  of  55°  N. ;  E.  by  Georgia,  from  which  it  is 
separated,  for  a  little  distance,  by  Tennessee  river,  then  by  a 
istraiglit  line  commencing  at  the  Indian  town  of  Nickajack,  on  that 
river,  and  passing  nearly  S.  E.  by  S.  till  it  strikes  the  Chattahou- 
chie  in  lat.  32  25  N.  and  then  by  the  Chattahouchie  ;  S.  by  West- 
Floridaj  from  which  it  is  divided  by  the  parallel  of  31°  N  ;  and  W". 
by  tlie  Missisippi,  which  coasts  the  territory  for  610  miles  ;  divid- 
ing it  for  320  miles  from  Louisiana  state,  and  for  290,  from  Upper 
Louisiana. 

A'ame.  It  talces  its  name  from  the  river  which  forms  its  west- 
ern boundary. 

Orii^inal  Fo/iulutiov.  The  Creek  or  Muskogee^  Cherokee, 
Chactav/,  and  Chicasaw  Indians  have  been  for  ages,  and  still  are, 
inhabitants  of  the  greater  part  of  this  territory. 

The  ChcTokets  inhabit  the  country  north  of  the  Creeks,  border- 
ing on  the  river  and  slate  of  Tennessee,  having  the  Apalachian 
mountains  on  the  E.  Their  country  formerly  extended  \V.  to  the 
Missisippi  and  N.  to  that  of  the  Six  Nations  ;  but  was  surrendered 
by  the  treaty  at  Westminister,  1729,  to  the  crown  of  Great-Britain. 
In  the  beginning  of  the  year  1810,  there  were  in  the  nation,  12,395 
Indians.  The  number  of  females  exceeded  the  males  200.  The 
whites  in  the  nation  were  341,  one  third  of  whom  have  Indian 
wives,  1 13. 

The  Chactaivs  inhabit  a  very  fine  and  extensive  hilly  country, 
with  intervening  and  fertile  plains,  between  the  Alibama  and  Mis- 
sisippi rivers.  Several  years  since  they  had  43  towns  and  villages, 
in  3  divisions,  containing  about  6000  souls.  In  1808,  this  nation 
sold  to  the  United  States  a  large  tract  of  their  territory,  lying  on 
the  Pearl  and  Tombigbcc  rivers. 

The  Chicasaw^  inhabit  a  fine  tract  of  country  on  the  head 
branches  of  the  Tombigbec,  Mobile,  and  Yazoo  rivers,  in  the  N» 
W.  corner  of  the  Mibsisippi  territory.  They  have  7  towns ;  the 
central  one  lies  in  lat.  34  23  N.  and  Ion.  89  30  W.  The  number 
of  souls  has  been  estimated  at  1725,  of  which  575  were  fighting; 
men. 

The  JSTatchez^  formerly  a  powerful  nation,  and  more  civilized 
than  any  other  Indian  tribes,  inhabited  the  country  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  Missisippi,  around  the  present  town  of  this  name,  particular- 
Iv  south  of  it.  Nothing  now  remains  of  tins  nation  but  its  name. 
The  French  completed  their  destruction,  in  1730. 

The  Yazoo  Indians,  who  inhabited  on  the  river  of  that  name,  are 
now  extinct,  as  a  people. 

Hifitory.  A  part  of  this  territory  has  long  been  inhabited  by 
white  people.  In  1539,  Ferdinand  de  Soto,  with  900  men,  besido 
seamen,  from  Cuba,  proceeded  as  far  as  the  Chicasaw  country, 
lat.  35°  or  36°,  and,  in  1542,  died  and  was  buried  on  the  bank  of 
the  Missisippi.  Since  this  period,  this  country  has  often  changed 
masters. 

In  1773,  gen.  Putnam,  capt.  Enos,  and  Mr.  Lyman  attempted  % 
settlement  on  the  I>ousa  Chitto,  which  failed. 
33 


2i9  MISSISIPPI  TERRITORY. 

In  1779,  the  British  took  possession  of  the  Natchez  countrf,- 
wliich  at  this  pi  riod  was  settling  fast  by  immigrations  from  the 
northern  stales. 

In  1795,  when  this  territory  belonged  to  the  state  of  Georgia,  its 
legislature  sold  to  4  different  companies  about  22,000,000  acies  of 
its  lands  ;  which  have  been  since  purchased  principally  by  gentle- 
men in  the  middle  and  eastern  states.  Serious  disputes  have  since 
arisen  concerning  these  lands,  which  arc  now  in  a  train  of  adjust- 
ment between  the  United  States  and  their  present  holders. 

In  1800,  this  territory  was  erected  into  a  separate  government, 
with  the  same  privileges,  which  are  enjoyed  by  the  other  territorial 
governments. 

By  treaty,  in  Dec.  1801,  at  fort  Adams,  the  Chactaw  Indians  re- 
linquished to  the  United  States  all  the  land  in  the  MissUippi  ter- 
ritory between  the  old  line  of  demarcation  established  by  thi.  Biit- 
ish  and  the  Missisippi  river,  bounded  S.  by  the  31°  of  lat.  and  N. 
by  the  Yazoo  river. 

Divisions  and  Pofiulation.  This  territory  is  divided  into  II 
counties,  whose  population,  according  to  the  census  of  1810,  was 
as  follows: 

Counties^  Whole  population.  Slaves. 

Adams  10,002  5,671 

Baldwin  1,427  717 

Amite  4,730  1,422 

Claiborne  3,102  1,538 

Franklin  2,116  735 

Madison  4,699  948 

Jefferson  4,001  1,792 

Washington  2,920  900 

Warren  1,114  473 

Wayne  1,253'  262 

Wilkinson  5,068  2,630 


40,352  17,088 

Of  the  number  of  males,  7489  were  between  1 6  and  45. 

Religion.  There  are  but  few  clergymen  of  ariy  denomination  in 
this  territory.     It  is  in  great  part  missionary  ground. 

Government.  The  governor  and  secretary  arc  appointed  by  con- 
gress, and  hold  their  offices  at  their  pleasure.  The  territory  may 
send  one  representative  to  congress,  who  has  the  privilege  of  de- 
bating, but  not  of  voting.  The  question  whether  this  territory 
shall  be  erected  into  a  state,  has  been  before  congress,  but  has  not 
been  decided. 

Chif^f  Toivns.  Natchez,  the  capital,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
considerable  eminence,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Missisippi.  Here 
is  a  printing  office,  and  several  very  extensive  mercantile  stores. 
There  is  also  a  Roman  Catholic  church.  It  contains  1511  inhab- 
itants, of  whom  459  are  slaves. 

Washington  has  324  inhabitants,  of  which  182  are  slaves. 

Road.    By  consent  of  the  Chactaws  a  road  has  been  made  from 


MISSISIPPI  TERRITORY.  «S9 

the  northern  settlements  of  the  Missisippi  levritory,  through  the 
Chactavv  country,  to  the  lands  claimed  by  the  Chicasaws. 

Commerce.  The  exports  during  the  year  1811  amounted  to 
S1441. 

Climate.  White  frosts,  and  sometimes  thin  ice,  have  been  known 
here,  but  snow  is  very  uncommon.  The  latitude  of  this  territory 
is  that  of  Palestine. 

Snil^  Productions.!  Agriculture,^  Rivers,  Inland  J^faxngation,  isfc. 
The  lands  bordering  the  rivers  and  hikes  arc  [generally  well  wood- 
ed ;  but  at  a  small  distance  from  them,  are  very  extensive  natural 
mea. lows,  cr  savannas,  of  the  most  luxuriant  soil,  composed  of  a 
bhick  mould  al)0Ut  1^  feel  deep,  very  loose  and  rich,  occasion;  d, 
in  part,  l)y  the  frequent  burnintj  of  the  savannas  ;  below  the  black 
mould  is  a  stiff  clay  of  different  colors 

The  soil  of  this  country,  says  Mr.  Hutchins,  speakini^  of  the 
tract  between  lat.  31°  and  32°,  is  supcrinr  to  any  of  the  lands  on 
the  borders  of  the  Missisippi,  for  the  production  of  mi;i;y  articles. 
It  produces  in  equiil  ab\inuance  iiidian  coin,  rice,  hemp,  flax,  indi- 
go, cotton,  wiiich  is  .low  the  staple,  pol  herbs,  pulse  of  every  kind, 
ana  pasuiiap;e  ;  and  the  tobacco  made  here  is  estoemed  preferable 
to  any  cultivated  in  other  parts  of  America.  Oranges  and  h.;mons 
are  plenty.  Hops  grow  wild  ;  all  kinds  of  European  fruits  arrive 
to  great  perfection,  and  no  part  of  the  knov/n  world  is  more  favor- 
able for  liie  raising  of  every  kind  of  stock. 

Toe  river  Yazoo  is  upwards  of  100  yards  in  width,  runs  from 
the  N.  E.  and  glides  through  a  hcalthv,  fertile,  and  pleasant  coun- 

Pearl  river  rises  in  the  Chactaw  country,  and  is  navigable  up- 
wards of  150  miles.  It  has  7  feet  water  at  its  entrance,  and  deep 
water  afterwards.  In  1769,  there  were  some  settlements  on  this 
river,  in  wiiich  were  raised  tobacco,  indigo,  cotton,  rice,  Indian 
corn,  and  various  sorts  of  vegetables.  The  land  produces  many 
kinds  of  timber  fit  for  pipe  and  hogshead  staves,  masts,  yards,  and 
all  kinds  of  plank  for  ship  building. 

Pascagoula  river  empties  into  the  gulf  of  IMcxico  by  several 
mouths,  which  together  occupy  a  space  of  3  or  4  miles,  which  is 
one  continued  bed  of  oyster  shells,  with  very  shoal  water.  The 
westernmost  branch  has  4  feet  water  and  is  the  deepest.  After 
crossing  the  bar,  there  is  from  3  to  6  fathoms  water  for  a  great  dis- 
tance, and  the  river  is  said  tobe  navigable  more  than  1 50  miles.  The 
soil  on  this  river,  like  that  on  all  the  others  that  pass  through  Geor- 
gia into  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  grows  better  as  you  advance  to  its 
source. 

But  the  principal  river  in  the  territory  of  which  wc  are  now 
speaking  is  the  Mobile,  which  is  formed  by  the  Tombigbee  and 
Alibama. 

Curiosities.  On  the  head  waters  of  the  Mobile  are  found  oyster 
shells.  They  are  of  an  astonishing  size,  and  in  such  quantities  as 
to  forbid  the  idea  of  their  being  carried  there  from  the  sea,  which 
is  300  miles  distant.  Tiic  Chicasaws  say  they  were  there  when 
their  fathers  came  into  the  countiy.  They  use  the  shells  in  mak- 
ing earthern  ware. 


260  LOUISIANA. 


LOUISIANA. 

Boundaries  and  Extint.  THE  'uoundaries  of  Louisiana  are  not 
selllcd  on  the  E.  on  the  W.  or  on  the  N.  On  the  E.  the  United 
Stales  insist  that  the  Pcrdido,  a  rive:  of  West-Florida,  which  emp- 
ties 140  miles  E.  of  the  mouth  of  lake  Ponchartrain,  is  the  true 
boundary  :  while  Spain  insists  that  the  Missisippi  from  lat.  31°  to 
the  Ibberville,  (129  miles  on  the  river,)  and  bciuw,  the  Ibberville 
itself,  with  lakes  Maurepas  and  Ponchariraiiij  constitute  the  eastern 
boundary  of  Louiaiana. 

On  the  W  the  viceroy  of  Mexico  claims,  that  his  jurisdiction 
reaches  eastward  to  the  Bio  Alermentas  or  MeccicaiiOy  emptying  in- 
to the  gulf  in  lat.  29  ST  N.  and  in  Ion.  93  12  W.  ;  while  the  Unit- 
ed States  insist,  that  the  Rio  Bravo  del  J\''orte,  which  empties  into 
the  gulf  of  Mexico  in  lat.  25  50,  and  Ion.  07  50  W.  is  the  boun- 
dary between  Louisiana  and  Mexico.  Tlie  interval  of  sea  coast, 
between  the  Mexicano  and  Bravo  is  about  600  miies.  For  rea- 
sons hereafter  to  be  stated,  we  are  led  to  believe,  that  the  Bio  Col- 
orado^ is  the  true  western  boundary.  This  falls  into  the  northwest 
corner  of  the  guif,  about  halfway  between  the  other  two,  in  lat  29 
15  N.  and  Ion.  97  10  W.  On  the  N.  Louisiana  is  unlimited  ;  but 
may  fairly  be  considered  as  reaching  to  Winniptc  river  and  lake. 

The  extent  of  coast  between  the  mouth  of  lake  Poncliartrain*  and 
that  cf  the  Mexicano  is  about  280  miles  ;  between  the  Ms-xicano 
and  the  Perdido  4^0  ;  between  the  Perdido  and  Colorado  720  ; 
and  between  the  Perdido  and  Bravo  102u. 

-Divisions.  Louisiana  is  divided  into  two  governments,  the  state 
cf  Louiiiiaija-,  arid  the  territory  of  Louisiana. 

The  state  of  Louisiana  comprehends, 

i.  The  coupjtry  between  the  Perdido  on  the  E.  the  Missisippi 
on  the  W.  the  Ibberville  and  the  gulf  on  the  S.  and  the  Missisippi 
territory  on  the  N. 

2.  The  island  of  Orleans,  which  is  the  tract  of  land  lying  be- 
tween the  Missisippi  on  the  S.  W.  and  the  Ibberville  and  lakes 
Maurepas  and  Poncliartrain,  on  the  N.  E.  The  Ibberville  is  a 
bayau  or  arm  of  the  Missisippi,  which  leaves  it  on  the  E.  208  miles 
from  its  mouth,  according  to  the  course  of  the  river,  and  flows, 
through  lakes  Maurepas  and  Ponchartrain,  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico. 
The  island  stretches  from  E.  S.  E.  to  W.  N.  W.  in  a  straight  line, 
about  160  miles.     Its  breadth  varies  from  6  to  25  miles. 

3.  All  the  territory  W.  of  the  Missisippi  and  S.  of  lat.  33°, 
The  territory  of  Louisiana  comprehends  all  the   country  W.  ol. 

the  Missisippi  and  N.  of  lat.  33°. 

The  former  is  bounded  N.  by  Louisiana  and  Missisippi  territo- 
ries ;  E.  by  the  Missisippi  between  lat.  33°  and  31°  N.  which  for 
390  miles  coasts  between  it  and  the  Missisippi  territory,  and  far- 

*  This  iai  in  lat.  30°  N.  and  Ion.  89  40  W. 


LOUISIANA.  261 

ther  S.  by  the  Perdulo,*  which  divides  it  from  the  rest  of  West- 
Florida  ;   S.  by  the  guliof  Mexico  ;  and  W.  by  Mexico. 

The  latter  has  Mexico  on  the  W. ;  the  state  of  Louisiana  on  the 
S. ;  the  Missisippi,  which  separates  it  from  the  Missisippi  teiiito- 
ry,  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  and  Illinois  territory,  or.  the  E. ;  and  un- 
explored regions  on  the  N. 

.Yame.  The  name  of  Louisiana  was  given  to  the  territory  in 
lionor  of  Louis  XIV.  by  Mons.  de  la  Salle. 

History,  This  country  was  first  discovered  by  Ferdinand  de 
Soto,  in  J541  ;  it  was  afterwards  visited  by  col.  W(;od,  in  1654  ; 
by  capt.  Bolt,  in  !670  ;  and  in  1682,  by  Mons.  de  la  Salle,  from 
Canada,  who  was  the  first  who  traversed  the  river  Missisippi. t  In 
1684,  he  left  France  with  a  colony  of  about  170  men,  for  the  mouths 
of  the  INlissisippi.  By  mistake,  they  passed  tlie  place  of  destina- 
tion, and  landed,  Feb.  1685,  in  the  bay  of  St.  Bernard,  about  300 
miles  W.  of  the  mouths  of  the  Missisippi.  Most  of  them  perish- 
ed. In  1699,  Mons.  Ibberville  of  Canada,  laid  the  foundation  of 
the  first  French  colony  on  tlie  Missisippi.  The  country  now  for 
the  first  time  was  called  Louisiana.:}: 

The  French  remained  in  quiet  possession  of  this  extensive  coun- 
try, except  frequent  contests  with  the  Indians,  till  1762. 

The  Natchez  tribe  of  Indians  proved  for  a  time  a  formidable  en- 
emy to  the  colony  ;  but  in  the  year  1731,  the  whole  tribe  was  near- 
ly extirpated.  In  1736,  and  again  in  1740,  the  colonists  were  en- 
gaged in  bloody  wars  with  the  Chicasavv  Indians,  in  the  former  of 
which  the  French  were  defeated  ;  the  latter  terminated  in  peace, 
which  has  not  since  been  interrupted. 

In  April,  1764,  the  French  court  announced  to  the  inhabitants, 
that  in  Nov.  1762,  Louisiana,  embracing  New-Orleans,  and  the 
whole  territory  W.  of  the  Missisippi,  had  been  ceded  to  Spain  by 
a  secret  treaty.  They  did  not  submit  to  this  vmjust  measure  with- 
out manly  opposition,  so  that  complete  possession  of  the  country 
was  not  obtained  by  Spain,  till  the  1 7th  of  August,  1769. 

By  the  treaty  of  peace,  in  1763,  Canada  with  the  whole  territory 
belonging  to  France,  eastward  of  the  middle  of  the  Missisippi  to 
the  Ibberville,  thence  through  the  middle  of  that  river  to  the  lakes 
Maurepas  snd  Ponchartrain  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  was  ceded  to 
Great  Britain. ||  By  this  treaty,  the  boundaries  of  the  British  prov- 
inces were  extended  southward  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  and  west- 
ward to  the  INlissisippi,  the  navigation  of  which  to  its  mouth  was 
to  be  free  to  both  nations,  and  Louisiana  was  limited  N.  by  Cana- 
da, and  E.  by  the  Missisippi,  excepting  that  it  included  the  island  of 
New-Orleans,  on  its  E.  bank.  This  state  of  things  remained  till 
the  American  revolutionary  war,  during  which,  Spain,  in  1779, 
1780,  and  1781,  took  from  Great  Britain,  the  two  Floridas ;  the 
United  States,  according  to  their  present  limits,  became  an  inde- 
pendent government,  leaving  to  Great  Britain,  of  all  her  American 
provinces,  those  only  which  lie  N.  and  E.  of  the  United  States.  All 

*  The  Perdido  has  been  made  the  boundary  by  the  government  of  the  United 
Ctates ;  we  know  not  by  what  authority, 

I  Hutchins.  I  Raynal.  \  Sec  Treaty. 


252  LOUISIANA. 

these  chan-ges  were  sanctioned  and  confirmed  by  the  treaty  of  1783. 
From  that  jjcriod,  these  respective  proportions  of  North-America 
remained  without  any  change  of  proprietors,  till  the  treaty  of  St. 
Ildefonso,  of  Oct.  1,  1800.  By  this  treaty,  Spain  ^'^  promises  and 
engages  on  her  part ^  to  cede  to  the  French  republic.^  six  months  af- 
ter the  full  and  entire  execution  of  the  conditions  and  stipulations 
therein  contained  relative  to  the  Duke  of  Parma,  the. colony  or  prov- 
ince of  Louisiana y  with  the  same  extent  that  it  actually  has  in  the. 
hands  of  Spain,  that  it  had  ivhen  France  possessed  it,  and  such  as 
it  should  be  after  the  treaties  subsequently  e7itered  into  bettveen 
Spain  and  other  states."  "  This  treaty  was  confirmed  and  enforced 
by  that  of  Madrid,  on  the  2  1st  of  March,  1801.  From  France  it 
passed  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty  of  the  30lh  of  April,  1803, 
as  above  mentioned,  with  a  reference  to  t»he  above  clause  as  de- 
scriptive of  the  limits  ceded."* 

The  above  recited  clause  from  the  treaty  of  Ildefonso,  which 
makes  a  part  of  the  treaty  of  the  SOlh  of  April,  1803,  between  the 
United  Slates  and  the  French  republic,  contains  our  title  to  Louis- 
iana, for  which  the  government  of  the  United  States  engaged  to 
pay  to  the  French  government,  the  sum  of  60,000,000  of  francs,  in- 
dependent of  the  sum  fixed  by  another  convention  for  the  payment 
of  the  debts  due  by  France  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States.t 

In  December,  1803,  Louisiana  was,  in  due  form,  delivered  by 
the  commissaries  of  Spain,  to  the  commissioner  of  France,  Mons. 
Laussat,  who  delivered  it  over  to  the  commissioners  of  the  United 
States,  gov.  Claiborne  and  gen.  Wilkinson,  on  the  20th  day  of  the 
same  month. 

In  Nov.  1808,  at  the  treaty  of  fort  Clark,  the  Great  and  Little 
Osage  Indians  agreed,  for  certain  stipulated  advantages,  that  the 
boundary  line  between  them  and  the  United  States  should  be  as 
follows,  viz.  "beginning  at  fort  Clark  on  the  Missouri,  5  miles  a- 
bove  Fire  Prairie,  and  running  thence  a  due  S.  course  to  the  river 
Arkansas,  and  down  the  same  lo  the  Missisippi,  ceding  and  relin- 
quishing forever  to  the  United  States,  all  the  lands  which  lie  east 
of  the  said  line,  and  N.  of  the  southwardly  bank  of  the  said  river 
Arkansas,  and  all  lands  situated  northwardly  of  the  river  Missou- 
ri." They  further  ceded,  at  the  same  time,  a  tract  of  2  leagues 
square  to  embrace  fort  Clark. 

*  Jefferson. 

I  For  the  payment  of  this  sum  of  60,000,000  francs,  it  was  stipulated  that 
"  the  United  States  shall  create  a  stock  of  1 1,250,000  dollars,  bearing  an  inter- 
est of  six  per  centum,  per  annum,  payable  half  yearly  in  London,  Amsterdam,  or 

—         .  .  .111,-.^      ^r,-,     fr\l^     J„ll ^_J:„™    .^    .»,«>    .^.-nr^z-v*. 


iMtii^c  ',    1  lie  ^iiiiLipai  ui  njc  urtivj   Dik/i,ft.  i.^'  v^*-  .*-.... .--v-. t'^"  .•*  ».-.'  v.*. — ry  U-- 

United  States,  in  annual  payments  of  not  less  than  3,000,000  of  dollars  each  ; 
of  which  the  first  payment  shall  commence  15  years  after  the  date  of  the  ex- 
chanf^e  of  ratifications ;  this  stock  shall  be  transferred  to  the  government  of 
France,  or  to  such  person  or  persons  as  shall  be  authorised  to  receive  it,  in  three 
nontbs  at  most,  after  the  exchange  of  the  ratifications  of  this  treaty,  and  after  Lou- 
isiana shall  be  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of  the  governjnent  of  the  United 


States 


LOUISIANA.  263 

The  territory  of  Orleans  was  made  a  state,  by  the  name  oF  Lou- 
isiana, in  1811;  and  the  country  between  the  Ibberville  and  the 
Perdido  was  taken  possession  of  in  the  latter  part  of  that  year,  and 
in  1812. 

Religion,  The  state  of  religion  in  this  newly  acquired  territory 
is  sufficiently  deplorable.  The  Spaniards  and  French  who  remain 
here  are  professedly  Catholics.  The  clergy  consist  of  2  canons, 
having  each  a  salary  of  600  dollars,  and  25  curates,  5  for  the  city 
of  New-Orleans,  and  20  for  as  many  country  parishes,  who  receive 
each  from  360  to  480  dollars  a  year.  There  is  also,  at  New-Or- 
leans, a  convent  of  Ursulines,  to  which  is  attached  about  1000  a- 
cres  of  land,  rented  out  in  three  plantations.  The  nuns  are  now  ill 
number  not  more  than  10  or  12,  and  are  all  Frencli. 

The  emigrants  from  the  states  are  principally  adventurers,  more 
Intent  on  gain  than  concerned  for  their  religious  interests.  They 
have  few  places  of  worship.  The  whole  of  this  country  is  proper 
Jnissionary  ground. 

Pofiulatio7t.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  the  whole  of  Louis- 
iana was  estimated,  in  1757,  at  10,000.  An  accurate  census  was- 
taken,  1766,  by  order  of  gov.  UUoa,  the  result  of  which  was  as  fol- 
lows ; 

TMen        1893"} 
ixn^-.^    J  Women  1044  I  ^^^.~\ 
WhU^^-^,  Boys        1575r'''L,.o« 
LGids        1244J  Y^^^''^ 

Slaves  5940J 

An  incomplete  census,  taken  in   1804,  gave  the  following  results*! 
Whites         21,244") 
Free  blacks    1,768  [.35,932 
Slaves  12,920  J 

The  following  is  the  result  of  the  census  of  1810. 
r  Whites        34,511") 
State  of  Louisiana  <  Free  blacks  7,585  C76,556"1 

(.Slaves  34,660)  Lor^r*- 

r  Whites         17,227)  >i^7,40. 

Territory  of  Louisiana       -<  Free  blacks      607  1 20,845  J 
(_  Slaves  3,011  J 

The  items  of  the  census  of  1810  were  as  follow  : 

males. 
rUnder  16  years  of  age  8,339 
State  of       jBeiwecn  16and45        8,093 
Louisiana    «<  45  and  upwards  2,508 

t.  Total      18,940 

Under  16  years  of  age  4,783 
—      .,  r    I  Between  16  and  45        3,637 

^/"'.^ry°f<^  45  and  upwards  967 


Louisiana 


females. 

total. 

7,972 

16,311 

5,900 

13,99S 

1,499 

4,007 

15,371 

34,311 

4,478 

9,261 

2,800 

6,437 

562 

1,529 

9,38/  7,840  17,227 


Grand  total       28,327      23,211          5l,53§ 


264 


LOUISIANA. 


County  of 
Orleans 


]stDistrict<l 


)>  32,402 


Germans  Coast 


L 


Acadia 


ad  Dislrict 


The  state  of  Louisiana  is  divided  into  5  districts,  as  follows  ; 

Populaiior>. 
Parish  of  Orleans,  viz. 
City  and  suburbs  of  N.  Or. 
Precincts  of  New-Orleans 
Parish  of  Plaquemine 
St.  Bernard 
St.  Charles 
St.  John  Baptiste 
St.  James 
Ascension 
Assumption 
I  Interior  of  La 

I  Fourche 

[^Ibberville  Ibberville 

Baton  Rouge 
Point  Coupee 
Concordia 
Oiuichitta 
Rapides 
Catahula 
I  Avoyelles 

[_Natchitoches  Natchitoches 

Opelousas 
Atakapas 


I 


La  Fourche 


^13,320 


3d  District-   Point  Ccupce 
^  Concordia 
'Ouachitta 
Rapides 
4thDistrict<^ 


J 


StbDistrict 


Natchitoches 

Opelousas 

Atakapas 


8,897 


8,520 


12,417 


76,556 
This  state  is  entitled  to  send  one  representative  to  congress. 
Divisions  of  Louisiana  territory. 

Population. 

District  of  St.  Charles  ii505 

Do.     of  St.  Louis  5667 

Do.     of  St.  Genevieve  4C20 

Do.     of  Cape  Girardeau  3888 

Do.     of  New-Madrid  2103 

Settlemeuts  of  Hopefield  and  St.  Francis  188 

Do.         on  the  Arkansas  874 

20,845 
Militia.     The  militia  of  this  extensive  country  amounts  to  about 
15,000  men  ;  but  of  their  present  condition  we  have  no  authentic 
information. 

Inkabitants  and  Character.  At  least  two  fifths,  if  not  a  e^reat^r 
proportion  of  all  the  settlers  on  the  Spanish  side  of  the  Missisippi, 
are  supposed  to  be  Americans.  Below  New-Orleans  the  popula- 
tion is  altogetlier  French  and  the  descendants  of  Frenchmen.* 

Language.  Spanish,  French,  and  English  are  all  spoken  at 
New-Orleans  ;  but  neither  of  them  vath  any  considerable  degree 
of  purity. 


♦  TefTerson, 


LOUISIANA.  263 

Literature.  There  are  no  colleges,  and  but  one  public  school, 
which  is  at  New  Orleans.  The  masters  of  this  were  formerly  paid 
by  the  kinej.  They  taui^ht  the  Spanish  language  only.  There 
are  a  few  private  schools  for  children.  Not  more  than  half  of  the 
inhabitants  are  supposed  to  be  able  to  read  and  Wi'ite,  of  whom  not 
more  than  200  perhaps  are  able  to  do  it  well. 

Cities.     New-Orleans  is  the  only  town  ot"  any  considerable 
consequence  in  the  whole  of  Louisiana.     It  was  founded  in  1717, 
and  stands  on  the  east  bank  of  the   Missisippi,   87  miles  from  its 
mouth,    1308  below  that  of  the  Missouri,  and  1115  below  that  of 
the  Ohio.     It  is  on  the  S.  W.  side  of  the  island  uf  Orleans,  4  miles 
W.  from  lake  Ponchartrain,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  the  capal 
of  Carondolet,  in  lat.  29  5 1  N.  Ion.  89  55  W.     The  town  is  regular- 
ly laid  out,  the  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are 
generally  about  40  feet  broad.     The   side   walkr   are   paved  with 
bricks  or  flat  stone,  but  the  middle  of  the  streets  arc  unpaved.  Thr 
houses  of  the  principal  streets  near  the  liver  are  built  of  brick,  and 
are  covered  with  slate  or  tiles.    The  back  part  of  the  town  is  chief- 
ly of  wood.     The  length  of  the  town  along  the  river  is  upwards  of 
a  mile,  and  its  breadth  more   than  halt  a  mile.     In    tlie  centre   of 
the  town  stands  the  cathedral  and  the  town  house,   and  in  front  ot 
them  an  open  square  covered  with  grass.     The  Lcvce  is  an  em- 
bankment of  earth  about  6  feet  high,  commencing  at  fort  Placque- 
mine,  43  mileb  below,  and  reaching  to  the  Ibberville,  at  the  head 
of  the  island,  121  miles  above  the  city,  according  to  the   course  of 
the  river.     It  makes  an  excellent  road  about  20  feet  wide,  which 
is  dry  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  ;  and  passes  directly  in  front  of  the 
town  along  the  margin  of  the  river,  affording  a  very  pleasaiit  even- 
ing walk.     In  the  evening  after  sunset  it  is  crowded  with  company. 
All  the  markets  are  on  the  Levee.     At  the  S.  E.  end  of  the   town 
stands  a  building,  lately  occupied  as  a  convent  by  a  number  of  Ur- 
sxiline  nuns.     The  city,   suburbs,   and  precincts  of  New-Orleans 
contain  24,552  inhabitants,  of  whom  13,728  are  whites,  and   10,824 
slaves.     There  are  also  a  number  of  Indians.     Great  numbers  of 
the  whites  are  French  ;  certainly  more  than  half.     The   different 
grades  have  each  their  different  amusements. 

New-Orleans,  in  the  licentiousness  of  its  morals,  rivals  the  cor- 
ruption of  the  old  world. 

St.  Louis  is  a  village  of  200  houses  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Missisippi,  14  miles  below  the  Missoiu-i,  in  lat.  38  18N.  Ion.  89  36 
W.  Considerable  settlements  are  made  on  the  banks  of  the  latter 
river  for  several  hundred  miles.  This  town  and  its  district  contains 
5667  inhabitants. 

St.  Genevieve  is  73  miles  below  St  Louis,  in  lat.  37  51  N. 
ion.  89  28  W.  It  is  the  storehouse  of  the  mines  in  its  neighbor- 
hood.    Population,  with  its  district,  4620. 

New-IVIadrid  is  181  miles  below  St.  Genevieve,  in  lat.  36  34 
N.  Ion.  89  20  W.  It  is  the  lowest  settlement  on  the  west  side  of 
the  river,  and  contains,  with  its  district,  2103  inhabitants  It  haf- 
been  much  injured  by  earthquakes. 

Mobile  is  described  under  West-Florida. 


**'';fi 


266  LOUISIANA, 

Inland  j\'av:gcJion.  The  navit^ation  of  the  Missislp-pi  has  becr^ 
already  minuteiy  descfibcu.*  The  Missisipyi  itself,  the  great  riv- 
ers connected  with  it,  Red  river,  the  Arkanbas,  the  Ohio,  the  Mis' 
souri,  the  Illinois,  and  their  branches  open  an  extent  of  inland  nav- 
igation of  which  there  is  h.irdly  a  parallel  on  the  globe.  The  dif- 
ficulty of  ascending  the  INIissibippi,  however,  deprives  IMew-Or- 
leans  of  maiiy  of  the  advantatres  it  would  otherwise  enjoy.  The 
easiest  and  most  usual  mode  for  coasting  vessels  to  transport  their 
merchaiidize  to  New-Orleans  is  to  ascend  lake  Ponchaitram  to  the 
inouth  of  bayau  St.  John,  'i'he  goods  are  here  put  into  boats,  car- 
ried up  the  bayau  6  miles,  and  thence  through  the  canal  of  Caron- 
dolet,  to  ti  ;  ^ity  walls.  This  canal  is  2  miles  in  length,  and  leads 
IVoni  lake  Ponchartrain,  by  way  of  the  bayau  of  St  John,  to  the  city 
of  New-Oileans,  and  is  to  be  extended  to  the  Missisippi.  It  is 
about  to  be  deepened  sufficiently  throus^hout  to  admit  an  easy  and 
safe  passage  for  gunboats,  if  on  a  survey  it  shall  be  deemed  practi- 
cable. For  this  p-^rpose.  congress,  in  Feb.  1809,  appropri-ated 
25,000  dollars. 

Manufactures.  There  arc  but  few  doiBCstic  maniuactnres.  Tlic 
Acadians  manufacture  a  little  cotton  into  quilts  and  cottonades  ; 
and  in  the  remote  parts  of  the  province,  the  poorer  planters  spin 
and  weave  some  negro  cloths  of  cotton  and  wool  mixed.  There  is 
one  machine  for  spinning  cotton  in  the  parish  of  Ibberville,  and  an- 
other in  the  Opelousas  ;  but  they  do  little  or  nothing.  In  the  city, 
besides  the  trades  wliich  are  absolutely  necessary,  there  is  a  con- 
siderable manufacture  of  cordage,  and  some  small  ones  of  shot 
and  hair  powder.  There  are  likewise  in  and  within  a  few  leagues 
of  the  town,  12  distilleries  for  making  taffia,  which  are  said  to  dis- 
til annually  a  very  considerable  quantity  ;  and  1  sugar  refinery, 
said  to  make  about  20r),ooo  lbs.  of  loaf  sugar.f 

Commerce.  The  difficulty  of  ascending  the  Missisippi,  has,  in 
a  great  measure,  cut  off  New-Orleans  from  supplying  the  western 
states  with  foreign  merchandize.  Miiherto  it  has  been  found 
cheaper  to  purchase  articles  in  New-York  and  Philadelphia  and 
carry  them  by  laiul  to  Pittsburg,  at  the  forks  of  the  Ohio,  and 
thence  down  that  river  to  the  various  towns  on  its  banks,  tiian  to 
transport  them  up  the  Missisippi  and  the  Oliio.  The  experiment 
of  the  steam  boat  is  now  trying  in  the  western  waters.  If  boats  of 
that  description,  sufficiently  strong  to  resist  the  saii-tjers,  plant trc^ 
.sleeping  sawyers,  and  wooden  islands,  which  abound  in  the  Missis- 
ippi, can  be  made  to  ascend  it  with  loads  of  merchandize,  at  the 
rate  of  3  or  4  miles  an  hour,  and  to  travel  safely  by  night,  as  well 
as  by  day,  New-Orleans  maj'^  !)id  defiance  to  the  efforts  of  Montre- 
al, New-Yoik,  and  Philadelphia,  to  engross  the  foreign  trade  of 
the  whole  western  country.  Should  the  experiment  fail,  most  of 
the  commerce  she  Avould  otherwise  enjoy,  will  probably  be  divid- 
ed between  those  three  cities  ;  and  it  will  fall  of  course,  chiefly  to 
the  one  which  can  supply  foreign  goods  at  the  lowest  price. 

In  1802;  26S  sail,  includhig  18  public  armed  vessels,  entered  the 

*  Page  Co.  f  Jefferson.  , 


LOUISIANA.  267 

Missisipi«.  Of  these,  ITO  were  American,  97  Spanlbh,  and  1 
french.  The  tonnage  ot'tlic  250  mcichant  vessels  amonnied  to 
33,725  In  the  same  year,  265  sail,  measuring  31,241  tons,  left  the 
Missisippi  ;  viz.  158  American,  measuring  21,383  tons  j  104i 
Spanish,  measuring  9753  ;  and  3  French,  mcuLiuring  105. 

In  the  same  year  the  imports  into  Louisiana  and  the  Floridas 
from  the  United  States  amounted  to  S  1)224,7  10  ;  and  the  exports 
to  the  United  States  from  those  countiies  to  1,006,2  1  4.  The  whole 
imports  in  1804,  were  estimated  at  S2, 500,000  ;  and  tiie  exports 
at  g2, 157,005.  The  exports  from  the  port  of  Oilcans,  in  18  10,  a- 
mounted  to  Sl>890,952;  of  which  Sl37'53,974  weie  of  domestic 
produce,  and  §136,978  of  foreign.  In  1811,  tlic  exports  of  domestic 
produce  amounted  to  §2,501,842,  and  of  foreign  to  S  143,208  ;  total 
S2, 650,050.  The  bulky  articles  of  the  western  country,  particu- 
larly flour,  corn,  meal,  and  beef,  go  down  the  Missisippi,  and  are 
cleared  out  at  New-Orleans.  The  exports  from  Lotiisiana,  of  its 
own  produce,  consist  chiclly  of  cotton,  sugar,  molasses,  and  furs, 
Clunate.  The  weather  at  New-Orleans,  in  the  winter,  is  very 
pleasant ;  in  the  summer  it  is  hot  and  sultry.  The  climate  of  all 
Louisiana,  below  the  Ohio,  is  described  as  every  where  unhealthy. 
This  is  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  surface,  and  to  tlie  sv.amps  and 
marshes,  which  so  extensively  deform  it.  Along  the  Missouri, 
and  farther  north,  it  becomes  more  salubrious. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  wilderness  north  of  the  Missouri  is 
still  unexplored.  The  bank  of  the  Missisippi,  from  the  bend  'at 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  to  cape  Girardeau,  157  miles,  continues 
generally  high,  except  the  interval  land,  from  1  to  4  miles  wide, 
'on  the  margin  of  the  river  ;  yet  it  forms  throughout  this  distance 
a  ridge  of  only  moderate  elevation.  From  cape  Girardeau  to  the 
Grand  Chain  of  Rocks,  2  1  miles,  the  bank  assumes  a  mountainous 
aspect.  Below  this  chain,  the  bank  is  but  little  higher  than  the 
ordinary  level  of  the  water,  and  in  freshets  is  almost  every  whei^e 
overflowed.  The  bank  is  also  only  from  one  quarter  of  a  mile  to 
two  miles  wide,  and  the  country  west  of  it,  from  20  to  50*  miles  in 
breadth,  is  an  immense  swamp  to  the  river's  mouth,  annually  over- 
flowed to  a  great  depth  during  the  season  of  freshets,  and  the  rest 
of  the  year  covered  with  stagnant  water.  This  water  covers  an 
extent  of  more  than  40,000  square  miles,  and  is  incapable  of  being 
converted  to  any  useful  purpose.  The  country  lying  west  of  this 
swamp,  between  it  and  the  viceroyalty  of  Mexico,  has  been  little 
explored.  Humboldt  describes  it  as  consisting  of  vast  steppes  or 
savannahs,  covered  with  grass,  partly  marshy  and  partly  more  el- 
evated and  firm.  The  Spaniards  have  no  settlement  east  of  the 
Colorado  ;  and  there  arc  scarcely  any  near  the  coast,  west  of  the 
Missisippi.  Fort  Claiborne,  on  Red  river,  and  accordhig  to  Hum- 
boldt's map,  in  iat.  32°  N.  and  Ion.  95°  W.  is  the  farthest  of  the 
American  settlements  westward. 

Soil.     The  steppes  or  savannahs  west  of  the  Missisippi   swamp 
are  described  by  Mr.  Jefferson  as  too  rich  to  bear  forest  trees,  and 

*  Eilicott  says  from  35  to  40, 


268  LOUISIANA. 

as  covered  with  a  tal!  rank  grass,  in  which  numberless  herds  of 
buffaloes  and  deer  are  lost.  The  cultivable  land  near  New-Or- 
leans, is  extremely  fertile  ;  as  is  much  of  that  near  the  Missouri, 
and  on  the  other  western  branches  of  the  Missisippi.  On  this 
head,  howevei*,  much  information  is  still  to  be  expected. 

Biz'ers.  The  rivers  in  that  part  of  the  state  of  Orleans,  which 
lies  east  of  the  island  of  Oileans,  are  described  under  the  article 
West-Florida  ;  as  is  the  Ibberville  with  lakes  Maurepas  and  Pon- 
chartrain.  The  Missouri  and  Missisippi  have  heretofore  beenmi^ 
nutely  described.* 

The  river  St.  Pierre  falls  into  the  Missisippi  10  miles  below  the 
falls  of  St.  Anthony.  Carver  says  he  sailed  up  about  200  rnilcs, 
aod  found  it  deep  and  navigable.  It  rises  far  to  the  west,  and  is  a 
river  of  very  considerable  consequence. 

The  river  De  Moines  is  a  large  stream  emptying  into  the  Mis- 
sisippi between  the  St.  Pierre  and  Illinois. 

The  St.  Francis  falls  into  the  Missisippi  508  miles  below  the 
Missouri,  in  lat.  34  44  N.  and  Ion.  90  29  W.  by  a  mouth  200  yards 
wide.  It  is  navigable  upwards  of  200  miles.  Its  course  is  S.  E. 
and  its  head  waters  arc  at  no  great  distance  from  the  Osage,  a 
branch  of  the  Missouri. 

White  river  falls  into  the  Missisippi  595  miles  below  the  Mis- 
souri, by  a  mouth  150  yards  wide.  It  runs  in  the  same  direction 
with  the  St.  Francis,  and  is  navigable  more  than  100  miles. 

The  Arkansas  empties  615  miles  below  the  Missouri,  and  20  be- 
low White  river,  in  lat.  34  1  N.  Ion.  9 1  4  W.  A  natural  canal, 
leaving  White  river  4  or  5  miles  above  its  mouth,  is  said  to  com- 
municate with  the  Arkansas,  about  22  miles  above  its  entrance  in- 
fo the  Missisippi.  The  Arkansas  is  navigable  500  or  600  miles. 
It  rises  in  Mexico.  Humboldt  supposes  that  it  may  be  the  same 
with  the  Napestle,  a  river,  which  rises  according  to  his  map,  in  lat.. 
40°  N.  Ion.  109°  W.  at  a  small  distance  from  the  source  of  the 
Kio  Bravo  del  Norte,  and  pursues  for  a  while  a  S.  E.  course  to- 
wards the  Missisippi.  The  Arkansas  having  been  explored  a  great 
distance,  is  found  to  run  where  it  should  have  been  expected  to 
run,  if  it  were  a  continuation  of  the  Napestle,  and  no  other  outlet 
for  this  last  is  knov.'n.  If  this  be  its  real  source,  the  Arkansas 
TTJUst  be  at  least  1500  miles  long. 

lied  river  falls  into  the  Missisippi  in  lat.  31  5t  N.  Ion.  91  57  W. 
■S068  miles  below  the  Missouri,  10  miles  below  the  line  of  demar- 
cation. It  rises  in  Mexico,  and  is  there  according  to  Humboldt, 
believed  to  be  the  same  with  the  Rio  de  Pecos,  which  rises  near 
38°  N.  and  104°  W.  a  little  northeast  of  the  village  of  Taos.  This 
belief  depends  on  t'le  same  facts,  as  the  similar  one  in  the  case  of 
the  Arkansas.  Its  length  on  this  supposition  is  upwards  of  1200 
miles.     The  village  of  Rapide,  is  almost  100  miles  up  Red  river; 

*  Page  65. 

■f  The  line  of  demarcation  between  the  Missisippi  territory  and  West-Florida 
is  in  lat.  31°,  and  Red  river  empties  in  31  5  ;  yet  the  mouth  of  Red  river  is  10 
miles  below  the  Florida  line.  This  is  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  Missisippi,  iar,- 
mediately  below  that  line,  makes  a  circular  bend  of  52  miles  to  gain  6. 


SPANISH  AMERICA.  269 

^lat  of  Avoyelles,  150  ;  and  that  of  Natchitoches,*  about  240.  Fort 
Claiborne  is  still  higher. 

Bayau  Chafaila  leaves  the  Missisippi  3  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  Red  river.  The  channel  of  the  bayau  and  of  Red  river  are  of 
about  the  same  dimensions,  and  Schultz  conjectures  that  the  bayau 
•was  formerly  the  outlet  of  that  river.  The  Missisippi  is  known  to 
be  constantly  changing  its  channel.  About  4  or  5  miles  to  the  east 
of  where  it  now  runs,  there  is  a  string  of  small  lakes,  which  appear 
to  have  formerly  been  its  bed.  If  they  were,  and  Red  river  ran  in 
the  present  channel  of  the  Missisippi  (as  the  nature  of  the  ground 
indicates  that  it  must  have  done)  it  would  have  founa  no  other  out- 
let than  the  bayau.  On  this  supposition,  there  was  once  a  narrow 
strip  of  land,  5  miles  broad,  between  the  two  rivers.  The  narrow 
neck,  6  miles  across,  mentioned  in  the  preceding  note,  is  gradually 
■wasting  away  by  the  force  of  the  current.  When  it  is  worn  through, 
Red  river  will  probably  resume  its  former  course. 

The  Rio  Mexicano,  or  Mermentas,  empties  into  the  gulf  in  lat. 
29  37  Ion.  93  12.  It  is  short  and  of  no  consequence  except  as  the 
contested  boundary  of  Louisiana. 

The  Sabine  is  a  larger  and  longer  stream,  emptying  about  40 
miles  west  of  the  Mexicano. 

The  Rio  de  la  Trinidad  is  drawn  on  Humboldt's  map  about  50 
miles  east  of  the  Colorado,  as  a  still  longer  and  larger  stream. 

Mineralogy.  The  celebrated  lead  mines  of  Louisiana  lie  in  a 
tract  of  country, about  50  miles  long  and  25  broad,  called  The  Mines. 
This  tract  commences  about  25  or  30  miles  W.  of  St.  Genevieve. 
Mine  le  Mott  is  the  nearest  to  the  Missisippi ;  the  Mines  of  Gar- 
berie,  17  miles  from  that ;  the  J^'evj  Diggings,  13  miles  farther; 
thence  to  Aline  le  Berton,  3  miles  ;  thence  to  the  Old  Minefi,  5  ; 
■which  are  83  miles  from  St.  Louis.  Mine  le  Eerton  was  discover- 
ed about  60  years  ago.  The  ore  is  very  abundant  in  all  this  tract, 
and  is  very  rich.  At  the  works,  the  price  of  the  ore  is  18  or  20 
dollars  a  tliousand  weight,  and  that  of  the  metal  5  doUai  s  a  hundred 
weight.  Most  of  the  ore  will  produce  from  80  to  90  per  cent,  of 
pure  metal.  About  912  tons  were  smelted  in  1807.  The  quanti- 
•^y  of  metal  is  probably  inexhaustible.  The  conveniences  for  smelt- 
ing are  very  indifferent.  There  is  but  one  air  furnace  in  the 
-whole  country.  This  is  at  Mine  le  Berlon.  An  extensive  shoe 
?nanufactory  has  been  established  at  the  same  place. 


SPANISH  AMERICA. 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

Extent.  SPAIN  haslong  claimed  about  half  of  the  vv'estern  con- 
tinent. On  the  Pacific,  she  claims  from  cafie  Mendocino,  in  lat. 
/il^N.  to  tJie  southern  extrem.ity  of  the  continent;    though  her 

•  Pronounced  Na^adosh. 


sro  SPANISH  AMERICA. 

highest  northern  settlement  is  Puerto  San  Francisco,  in  lat.  of  43 
N.  and  her  hil;hc!^l  t>omhern  on  the  continent,  fore  Mauliin,  in  lat. 
,41  43  S.     Th.e  lei!.i;th  of  coast  betMcen  these  two  settlements  is 
more  than  1900  marine  leagues. 

On  the  Atlantic,  Spain  claims  the  whole  coast  from  the  mouth 
of  the  S(,  Afari/s  in  lat.  30  45  N.  to  ca/ic  Sable  ;  and  thence  N. 
and  W.  on  the  gulf  of  INIexico,  to  the  mouth  of  lake  Ponchartrain 
in  lat.  30"^  N,  and  89  40  W.  The  United  States,  however,  insist 
that  Louisiana  reaches  E.  of  lake  Ponchartrain,  140  miles,  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Pi-rdido,  in  lat.  30  15  N.  and  ion.  87  35  W.  The 
United  States  also  insist  that  the  Rio  Bravo  del  jYorte^  in  lat.  25  50 
N.  and  ion.  97  50  W.  is  the  W.  limit  of  Louisiana  on  the  gulf. 
Spain  on  the  contrary  contends  tliat  it  reaches  no  farther  than  the 
mouth  of  the  Rio  ISIcrmentas,  or  Mt'xica7io,  in  lat.  29  37  N.  and 
Ion.  93    !2W. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Mexicano,  Spain  claiqns  the  whole  coast 
of  tl;e  gulf  of  Mexico,  of  the  Caribbean  sea,  and  of  the  Atlantic,  to 
the  mouih  of  the  Esatqutbo,  in  lat.  7°  N.  Ion.  58  40  W.  On  the 
S.  E.  coast  of  South-America  she  also  claims  fromthe  mouth  of  the 
little  river  Chuy,  in  lut.  33  40  S.  to  the  extremity  of  the  continent ; 
although  her  real  soutliern  limit,  by  the  treaty  with  the  Pampas,  i% 
ca/ie  Lobos,  in  lat.  37  45  S. 

Divisions.  The  following  arc  the  great  divisions  of  this  extern 
sive  territory. 

I.     In  North-America. 

1.  East-Florida. 

2.  West-Florida.     Now  partially  claimed  by  the  United  States. 

3.  Viceroyaity  of  Mexico  or  New-Spain. 

4.  Capiaiiigcneralship  of  Guatemala. 

II.  In  the  West-Indies. 
1.  Captaingeneralship  of  Cuba. 

'2.  Captaiugeneralsliip  of  St.  Domingo. 
3.  Captaingeneralship  of  Porto  Rico. 

III.  In  South-America. 

1.  Viceroyaity  of  New-Granada  or  Western  Terra  Firma. 

2.  Captaingeneralship  of  Caraccas,  Venezuela,  or  Ea^stcrn  Ter.- 

ra  Firma. 

3.  Viceroyaity  of  Peru. 

4.  Viceroyaity  of  Buenos  Ayres. 

5.  Captaingeneralship  of  Chili. 

Religion.  The  C  atholic  is  the  religion  established  in  all  these 
rouniries.  Tlicre  are  three  tribunals  of  the  inquisition  in  Spanish 
America;  one  at  Mexico,  one  at  Carthagena,  and  one  at  Lima. 
For  a  considerable  period,  the  attention  of  these  bodies  had  been 
chiefly  confined  to  the  suppression  of  offensive  books.  The  cata- 
logue of  prohibited  authors,  printed  in  1790,  contained  the  names 
of  5420;  many  of  whom  were  among  the  first  writers  that  the 
Vt'orld  has  produced. 

Government.  The  supreme  direction  of  all  the  provinces  wa'^ 
committed  to  the  council  of  the  Indies.  This  council  was  first  es* 
tublished  by  Ferdinand,  in  ijll.  and  brought  into  a  more  perfect 


SPANISH  AMERICA.  27 \ 

form  by  Charles  V.  in  1524.  It  lately  consisted  of  a  president,  22 
counsellors,  4  secretaries,  besides  other  ofTrccrs  ;  and  was  divided 
into  4  camaras,  or  chambers  ;  two  of  which  v.'ere  especially  charg- 
ed with  affairs  of  administration,  a  third  with  appeals  from  the  le- 
gal decision  of  the  royal  audiences  ;  and  the  fourth,  composed  of 
the  oldest  counsellors,  with  the  numimilion  of  viceroys,  captaingen- 
erals,  governors,  and  other  magistrates,  archbishops  and  bishops 
The  whole  council,  also,  was  entrusted  with  the  enaction  of  laAvs. 
All  ordinances  relative  to  the  government  and  police  of  the  colo- 
nies, originated  here,  and  must  have  been  approved  by  two  thirds 
cf  all  the  members  before  they  were  issued  in  the  name  of  the  king. 

The  captaingenerals  possess  power  in  their  own  provinces, 
scarcely  inferior  to  those  of  t'ne  viceroys,  but  with  less  of  pomp, 
and  fewer  of  the  insignia  of  royally. 

The  jurisdictions,  or  intendencies,  into  which  each  of  the  colo- 
nies is  divided,  have  each  its  own  governor  or  intendant,  who  takes 
the  title  of  lieutenant  general,  has  important  civil  powers,  and  is 
supreme  military  commander  of  the  jurisdiction. 

The  royal  audiences  are  the  supreme  tribunals  of  justice,  both 
in  civil  and  in  crimirval  causes.     Of  these  there  were  13  ; 

1.  Guadalaxara,  >  .      ,       .  i*      r-»T     • 

„    ,,     .  '  >■  in  the  viceroyalty  ol  r.Iexico. 

2.  Mexico,  5 

3.  Guatemala,  in  that  captaingeneralship. 

4.  Havannah,  in  Cuba. 

5.  St.  Domingo,  in  Hispaniola. 

6.  Panama,  "J 

7.  Santa  Fe  de  Bogota,  i-in  New-Granad*a. 

8.  Quito,  1563,  J 

9.  Caraccas,  17  86,  in  Venezuela. 

10.  Lima,  1542,  in  Peru. 

11.  St.  Jago,  in  Chili. 

12.  La  Plata,  1559,  ?  •     „  * 

13.  Buenos  Ayres,  1783,5  "'       '"°'     ^''''" 

Each  audience  con::.ists  of  a  president,  a  regent,  a  number  of  audi- 
tors or  judges,  fiscals  for  civil,  criminal,  and  fuiancial  affairs,  and 
one  or  more  reporters.  Each  member  has  the  title  of  irig/i?ici'&: 
The  audience  in  the  absence  of  the  viceroy  has  ail  the  viceroyal 
powers  and  prerogatives.  It  is  tlie  high  court  of  justice  in  each 
colony,  receives  appeals  fronj  all  civil  and  criminal  tribunals,  and 
is  the  court  of  final  appeals  in  all  causes  where  not  more  than 
S 1 0,000  is  concerned.  As  a  deliberative  body  the  viceroy  is  direct- 
ed to  consult  it  on  every  emergency.  If  he  acts  contrary  to  the 
advice  of  the  audience,  he  takes  the  sole  responsibility  on  himself. 
The  audience  has  also  the  power,  in  certain  cases,  of  reir.onstraliiij^ 
against  the  political  regulations  of  the  viceroy,  and  of  laying  the 
matter  before  the  council  of  the  Indies.  That  body  also  looks  to 
the  audience  for  correct  information  iu  case  of  any  dispute  between 
a  viceroy  and  a  subordinate  governor. 

In/iadiuvits.  There  are  six  great  classes  of  inhabitants  iu  Span- 
ish America.  1.  The 'iv/iitcs  ;  2.  Thu  Indians  ;  3.  The  nrgrtjefi  } 
4.  Tlic  nn-i-ri-osy  or  dcsccndunts  cf  whites  and   Indians  ;  5.  The 


2-72 


SPANISH  AMERICA. 


mulatioes,  or  descendants  of  whites  and  negroes  ;  6.  The  Safiiboeaf 
or  descendants  of  Indians  and  negroes. 

The  whites  compose  two  classes,  1.  The  Eurofieans  ;  2.  The 
Creoles.,  or  whites  of  European  extraction  born  in  America. 

Coinage.  The  following  statement  of  the  whole  coinage  of  Span- 
ish America,  in  the  year  1796,  is  given  in  the  written  report  of  the 
viceroy  Don  Francisco  de  Taboada  y  Lemos,  to  his  successor,  the 
marquis  of  Osorno. 


Coined  at  Mexico 

at  Guatemala 

at  Lima 

at  Potosi 

at  St.  Jago  de  Chili 

at  Popayan 

at  Santa  Fc  de  Bogota 


24,200,000 


24,000,000  >     North 
200,000  5  America  ^ 
6,000,000"^ 

4,600,000  I     c        1-      r 
1,500,000  J>^°"t."     S  14,000,000 
1,000,000     ^"^erica  i 

1,200,000  J  . . 

Total  as 8,200,000 


Commerce.  It  was  early  the  object  of  the  Spanish  moharchs  to 
secure  the  produce  of  the  colonies  to  the  mother  country.  They 
accordingly  prohibited  all  intercourse  between  them  and  foreign 
nations. 

Previous  to  1778,  when  a  free  commerce  was  extended  to  most 
of  the  provinces,  only  12  or  15  register  ships  were  employed  in 
the  trade  with  Spanish  South-America,  and  these  seldom  perform- 
ed more  than  one  voyage  in  three  years.  The  following  table  wilt 
tJxhibit  the  effect  of  the  decrees  of  1778,  in  a  single  year. 


Trade  between  Spain  and  Spanish  South-America,  in  1778. 


Imports  to  South-America. 

Exports  from  S.  Ameriaa. 

Ports. 

Ships. 

spdiiish 

Foreign 

Xotal. 

Duties. 

Shipb. 

Value  of 

Duties. 

produce. 

produce. 

£ 

cargoes. 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

£ 

Cadizl 

63 

332,701 

922,543 

1,255,244 

66,926 

57 

860,257 

24,388 

Corunna 

25 

69,691 

66,826 

136,507 

7,184 

21 

683,328 

43,38T 

Sarcelona 

23 

163,290 

52,513 

215,803 

8,384 

25 

107,714 

1,932 

Malaga 

54 

85,637 

12,927 

98,564 

3,618 

10 

24,746 

120 

St.  Andero 

13 

19,128 

99,807 

118,935 

7,666 

8 

114,852 

1,680 

Alicant 

3 

5,299 

2,308 

7,607 

328 

8 

29,896 

TenerifFe 

9 
170 

30,165 

30,1  C5 

1,735 

6 

43,164 

2,780 

705,911 

,1,156,924 

1,862,8.35 

95,845 

135 

1,863,957 

74,287 

In  1788,  the  commerce  between  Spain  and  Spanish  South- Atmc" 

ica  was  as  fullow?  -. 


FLORIDAS 

• 

%i 

Imports  from  Sotith- 

America. 

Exports  from 

Ports. 

Spunisli 
produce. 

Foreign 
produce. 

Total. 

S.  America. 

£ 

C 

£ 

£. 

Seville 

95,276 

14.342 

109,618 

3,249 

Cadiz 

2,281,311 

3,038,346 

5,319,657 

18,382,885 

Malaga 

318,801 

33,684 

35J,485 

296,738 

Barcelona 

742,210 

52,083 

794,293 

886,162 

Corunna 

249,833 

249,838 

2,040,400 

St.  Sebastian 

9,114 

79,488 

88,602 

283,883 

Alfaquez 

21,610 

360 

21,970 

6,231 

Gijon 

1,544 

28,300 

29,844 

16,052 

St.  Andero 

127,072 

281,949 

409,021 

657,398 

Alicant 

13,564 

815 

14,379 

15,878 

Pal  ma 

14,972 

14,972 

6,852 

Canaries 

55,264 

32,991 

88,255 

71,586 

3,930,576     J 

3,562,358 

7,492,934 

22,6-67,320 

FLORIDAS, 


Extent.  THIS  country  lies  S.  of  the  United  States,  betweeA 
lat.  25"and  31^  N.  and  between  Ion.  81°  and  91  50  W.  The 
length  of  the  whole  country,  from  the  Missisippi  eastward  to  the 
Atlantic,  is  6 1 0  miles.  The  Apalachicola  divides  East  from  West- 
Florida.  The  length  of  the  former,  from  cape  Sable  S.  to  the  St. 
Mary's  N.  is  400  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  the  Apalachicola  W.  to 
the  coast  E.  is  190,  but  the  average  breadth  of  the  peninsula  is  not 
:!aore  than  150  miles.  The  length  of  West- Florida,  including  the 
tract  between  the  Ibberville  and  the  Pcrdido,  in  lat.  31"  from  the 
Missisippi  to  the  Apalachicola,  is  420.  Its  breadth  from  the  par- 
allel 31°  N.  to  the  gulf,  varies  from  40  to  80,  and  averages  about 
50. 

Bojindaries.  East-Florida  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Georgia  ; 
on  the  E.  by  the  Atlantic  and  the  Florida  gulf;  on  the  S.  by  the 
same  gulf;  on  the  W.  by  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the  Apalachicola, 
which  separates  it  from  West-Florida. 

West-Florida  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Missisippi  territory  ; 
on  the  N".  E.  corner  for  25  or  30  miles,  by  tlie  Chataliouche,  which 
divides  it  from  Georgia  ;  on  the  E.  by  the  Apalachicola,  which 
separates  it  from  East-Florida  ;  on  the  S.  by  the  gulf  of  Mexico, 
and  by  the  river  Ibberville  and  the  lakes  Maurepas  and  Ponchar- 
train,  which  divide  it  from  the  large  island  of  Orleans;  on  the  W. 
by  the  Missisippi,  which,  for  129  miles,  separates  it  from  the  state 
of  Louisiana.  The  United  States,  however,  insist  that  West-Flor- 
ida reaches  no  farther  W.  than  the  mouth  of  the  Pcrdido,  in  Ion. 
87  35  W. 

Divisions.    The  division  of  the  country  into  East  and  West- 
35 


274  FLORIDAS, 

Florida  was  made  by  the  English,  while  the  countvy  was  in  their 
hands,  in  1763.  The  Spaniards  recognize  the  division.  The  U- 
nited  States,  in  1811,  took  forcible  possession  of  all  that  part  of 
West-Florida  that  lies  between  the  mouths  of  lake  Ponchartrain, 
and  of  Rio  Perdido. 

History.  Sebastian  Cabot  discovered  the  country  in  1497. 
Ponce  sailed  along  the  eastern  coast  in  1512,  and  going  on  shore, 
April  2d,  took  possession  in  tl^  name  of  the  king  of  Spain.  The 
iirst  attempt  to  settle  it  was  made,  in  1524,  by  Luke  Vasquez  ;  the 
second,  in  1528,  by  Pampilo  de  Navvaez,  v/ho  had  received  a 
grant  of  the  country  from  Charles  V. ;  the  third  by  Ferdinand  de 
Soto,  governor  of  Cuba,  in  1539  ;  and  the  fourth  by  John  Ribault, 
a  Frenchman,  in  1 562.  Pedro  Melandez,  a  Spaniard,  broke  up  the 
French  settlement,  in  1565  ;  and  Dominique  de  Gourgues,  a  sol- 
dier of  Gascony,  drove  away  the  Spaniards,  in  1568.  The  king  of 
Franco  disowning  the  acts  of  De  Gourgues,  the  French  soon  quit- 
ted the  country,  and  the  Spaniards  reoccupied  it. 

In  1763,  it  was  ceded  to  Great-Britain  in  exchange  for  the  Ha- 
vanna.  West-Florida  was  taken  by  the  Spaniards,  in  1781,  and 
both  countries  ceded  to  Spain,  in  1783.  The  government  of  the 
United  States  has  claimed  West-Florida  since  the  cessiori  of  Lou» 
isiana. 

Religion.  There  arc  few  churches  or  clergy  of  any  denomina» 
tion  in  this  country.  The  prevalent  form  of  the  Christian  religion 
is  that  of  the  Roman  Catholic.  The  whole  country  is  proper  mis- 
sionary ground. 

Government.  Each  of  the  provinces  has  a  governor  of  its  own. 
Both  are  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  captaingcneralof  Cuba,  and 
of  the  audience  of  the  Havanna. 

Poindano?!.  The  number  of  Spaniards  and  Creoles  is  verysmall, 
probably  not  more  than  20,000  in  both  provinces.  The  wandering- 
Creeks,  or  seminoles,  possess  most  of  East-Florida. 

Towns.  St.  Augustine  is  the  capital  of  East-Fidrida.  It 
stands  on  the  E.  const,  lat  29  45  N.  SOlcaguesN.  of  the  gulf.  It 
is  of  an  oblong  figure,  intersected  by  4  streets  at  right  angles.  The 
tov/n  is  fortified,  has  a  church  and  monastery,  and  about  3000  inhab- 
itants. The  breakers  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor  have  formed  2 
channels,  whose  bars  have  S  feet  water  each. 

New-Smyrna,  in  East-Florida,  is  situated  on  a  shelly  bluff,  on 
the  W.  bank  of  the  S.  branch  of  Musquito  river,  about  10  miles 
above  the  capes  of  that  river,  lat.  22"  N.  It  is  inhabited  by  a  colo- 
ny of  Greeks  and  Minorquies,  established  by  Dr.  TurnbuU.  Whea 
Mr.  Bartram  visited  it,  it  was  a  thriving  town. 

Pensagola  is  the  principal  town  in  West -Florida.  The  harbor 
is  on  the  N.  shore  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  1 1  leagues  E.  of' Port 
Lewis  and  Mobile,  and  15S  W.  of  the  islands  of  Tortuga.  It  is  a 
beautiful  body  of  water,  spacious,  and  safe  from  all  winds,  and  has 
4  fathoms  at  its  entrance,  deepening  gradually  to  7  or  8.  The  bar 
lies  in  lat.  SO  18  N.  and  Ion.  87  17  W.*  and  admits  of  vessels 
drawing  no  more  than  21  feet  water. 

•  Ellicott. 


FLORIDAS.  275 

Mobile  is  built  on  the  W.  side  of  Mobile  river,  at  its  entrance 
into  Mobile  bay,  30  miles  from  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  The  situation 
is  handsome,  and  some  of  the  houses  tolerably  good.  Tbe  town  is 
60  miles  W.  from  Pensacola.  The  two  towns  contained,  in  1799, 
about  1500  inhabitants. 

Commerce.  The  trade  of  East-Florida  centres  in  St.  Augustine, 
that  of  West-Florida,  in  Pensacola  and  Mobile.  The  exports  of 
Pensacola,  consisting  of  skins,  logwood,  dying- stuff,  and  silver  dol- 
lars, amounted,  while  in  possession  of  the  British,  to  63,000/.  sterl. 
annually.  The  average  value  of  imports  for  3  years  from  Great 
Britain  was  97,000/.  Mobile,  during  the  same  period,  annually 
sent  to  London  skins  and  furs,  to  the  amount  of  from  12,000  to 
15,000/.  sterling. 

Face  of  the  Countrij.  A  ridge  of  low  hills  runs  through  tiie 
peninsula  of  East-Florida  ;  but  both  coasts  are  level  and  low  for  a 
considerable  distance.  West-Florida  is  chiefly  a  flat  country. 
There  is  a  little  upland  near  the  northern  boundary. 
Soil.  There  is  in  this  country  a  great  variety  of  soils. 
Neither  province  can  ever  be  very  valuable  on  account  of  xts 
productions  ;  but  both  are  of  great  consequence  to  the  United 
States  ;  East-Florida  for  its  coast  and  harbors  ;  and  West-Florida, 
also,  as  it  is  the  outlet  of  many  large  and  iiavigable  rivers  in  the 
Missisippi  territory. 

Rivers.  The  St.  John  rises  in  a  large  SAvamp  near  the  centre  of 
the  peninsula,  and  pursues  a  northerly  course  to  the  Atlantic,  emp- 
tying 3 1  miles  north  of  St.  Augustine. 

The  Apalachicola  falls  into  St.  George's  sound,  the  western  pail 
of  Apalachy  bay,  by  three  mouths.  The  western  is  the  main  chan- 
nel, and  is  in  lat  29   44  38  N. 

The  Coene'cwA  empties  into  the  v/est  end  of  Pensacola  bay.  It 
has  been  incorrectly  called  Escambia,  but  that  is  really  a  small 
tributary,  falling  into  the  Coenecuh  from  the  west,  25  miles  above 
the  head  of  the  bay.  The  Coenecuh  rises  in  the  Missisippi  terri- 
tory, in  which  it  runs  a  considerable  distance,  and  is  navigable  for 
small  craft  nearly  to  the  line. 

The  Mobile  is  formed  hy  the  Alibama  and  Tons!)igbec,  about  G 
miles  north  of  the  boundary.  These  two  rivers,  after  accompany- 
ing each  otiier  3  miles,  again  separate.  The  western  branch  from 
thence  to  Mobile  bay  is  called  the  Mobile.  The  Alibama  retains 
its  own  name,  until  joined  by  some  of  its  own  vi?aters  which  separ- 
ated from  it  above  the  confluence  with  the  Toinbigljee.  After  this 
junction  it  is  called  the  Tensaiv,  till  it  falls  into  the  bay.  The  Ten- 
saw  falls  into  the  northeast  corner,  and  the  Mobile  into  the  north- 
west, about  12  miles  apart.     The  navigation  of  l30th  is  excellent. 

The  raficagoiUa  rises  in  the  Missisippi  territory,  and  empties 
about  33  miles  v/cst  of  Mobile  bay. 

Fearl  river  empties  into  the  northern  outlet  of  lake  Ponchartrain, 
50  miles  W.  of  the  Pascagoula.  Its  banks  arc  annually  inundated 
for  some  distance  north  of  the  boundary.  The  navigation  is  much 
obstructed  by  logs  of  wood. 

The  IbbervUle  is  »  dai;au,  or  outlet,  of  the  Missiisippi,  conimenc- 


376  FLORIDAS. 

ing  15  miles  below  Baton  Rouge,  and  121  above  New-Orleans.  It 
is  navigable  3  months  in  the  year,  for  boats  drawing  5  feet  water. 
For  several  months  it  is  wholly  dry.  In  the  season  of  freshets  the 
waters  of  the  Missis! ppi  flow  through  the  Ibberville  into  lake  Mau= 
repas,  and  thence  into  lake  Ponchartrain.  The  Ibberville  and  these 
lakes  are  claimed  by  Spain  as  the  southern  boundary  of  West= 
Florida. 

Lakes.  Lake  Ponchartrain  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  situat- 
ed between  the  large  island  of  Orleans  on  the  south,  and  West- 
Florida  on  the  north.  It  is  about  35  miles  long  from  east  to  west, 
and  25  broad  ;  and,  generally,  12  or  14  feet  deep.  It  opens  by 
several  mouths  into  the  bay  of  Espiritu  Santo.  The  lake  is  chief- 
ly surrounded  with  marshes. 

Lake  Maurefias.^  12  miles  long  and  8  wide,  receives  the  Ibbei't 
ville  at  its  W.  end,  and,  by  a  short  river  or  strait,  about  5  miles  in 
length,  communicates  at  the  F..  end  with  lake  Ponchartrain. 

Bays.  Jifialachy  bay  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  peninsula  of  East- 
Florida,  and  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico. 

St.  Joseph's  bay  a  little  to  the  W.  is  formed  by  a  sand-bar  which 
sets  up  in  a  N.  N.  W.  direction,  from  cape  St.  Bias,  about  2C  miles. 

St.  Rose's  bay  opens  into  the  gulf,  between  the  E.  end  of  St. 
Rose's  island  and  a  long  sand  bar  which  separates  the  bay  from  the 
gulf. 

Pensacola  bay  is  irregular  in  its  shape  and  sets  up  northward 
about  25  miles. 

The  mouth  of  Perdido  bay  is  about  8  miles  farther  W. 

Mobile  bay  sets  up  due  N.  30  miles  between  Dauphin  island  on 
the  W.  and  Mobile  point  E.  The  opening  is  about  5  miles  across^ 
The  bay  soon  expands  eastward  to  the  breadth  of  25  miles.  The 
Tensaw  falls  into  the  N.  E.  corner  and  the  Mobile  into  the  N.  W. 
The  water  in  the  bay  is  too  shoal  for  large  shipping. 

Hillsborough  bay,  on  the  W.  coast  of  East-Florida,  opens  into  the 
gulf  in  lat.  27  36  N.  Ion.  83°  W.  It  is  very  capacious,  and  will 
admit  any  vessel  drawing  not  more  than  24  feet  water. 

Boca  Grande  or  Charlotte  harbor,  on  the  same  side  of  the  pen- 
insula, opens  in  lat.  26  43  N.  and  Ion.  82  30  W.  It  has  15  feet 
•water  on  the  bar,  and  good  anchorage. 

The  bay  of  Spiritu  Santo  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Missisippi.  There  is  another  bay  of  this  name  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  peninsula,  S.  of  Apalachy  bay.  It  has  a  good  harbor  :  but  the 
adjacent  land  is  low.  Charlotte  harbor  and  Chatham  bay  are  still 
farther  south  on  the  same  side  of  the  peninsula. 

Islands.  A  string  of  islands  and  saiid-bars  lies  along  the  coast 
of  West-Florida.  These  islands  and  the  coast  are  in  many  place? 
covered  with  forests  of  live  oak. 


MEXICO-  277 


VICEROY ALTY  OF  MEXICO,  or  NEW,SPx\IN, 


Extent.  THE  territones  subject  to  the  viceroy  of  Mexico  ex^ 
tend,  on  the  Pacific,  from  Puerto  Santo  Francisco,*  in  lat.  37  48  N. 
and  ion.  122°  W.  to  the  boundary  of  Guatemala,  in  iat.  16  12  N. 
and  Ion.  94  15  VV.  On  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  the  northeastern  limit 
is  unsetllfd.  On  the  part  of  Spain,  the  Rio  Mcrmcntcifi  or  Mtxica- 
no,  emptying  in  lat.  29  57  N.  and  in  Ion.  93  12  W.  is  claimed  to 
be  the  western  boundary  of  Louisiana  ;  while  the  United  States  in- 
sist, that  Mexico  extends  no  farther  E.  than  the  Rio  Bravo  del 
J^'orte,  which  fails  into  the  gulf  in  lat.  25  50  N.  Ion.  97  30  W.  The 
interval  between  these  rivers  is  a  tract  of  about  600  miles  of  sea 
coast.  According  to  the  evidence  afforded  by  Humboldt,  the  real 
Hne  of  separation  between  Mexico  a  J  Loui:.iana  is  the  Rio  Colo- 
rado,! wiiich  falls  into  the  gulf  in  lat.  29  15  N.  and  Ion.  97  10  W. 
The  southern  limit  of  the  vicei'oyalty  on  the  gulf  is  supposed  to  be 
on  the  eastern  shore  of  Yucatan,  in  about  iat.  15  30  N.  The  length 
of  coast  on  the  Pacific  is  upwards  of  2600  miles.  Its  greatest 
breadth  on  its  northern  line  is  960  miles  ;  its  least  on  its  soui'iern 
is  160  miles. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  lie  the  unexplored  countries  of  North- 
western America ;  on  the  E.  Louisiana  and  the  gulf  of  Mexico  ; 
on  the  S.  E.  the  captaingeneralship  of  Guatemala  ;  on  the  S,  W. 
?ind  W.  the  Pacific  ocean. 

Divisions.  This  viceroyalty,  in  1776,  was  divided  into  12  intcn- 
dencies,  and  3  provinces.  They  are  arranged,  as  follows,  into  3 
classes,  proceeding  in  each  instance  from  N.  to  S. 

square  miles. 
J.  Provinces  of  the  western  coast  41&,933 

1.  Province  of  New-California  16,278 

2.  Province  of  Old- California  55,880 

3.  Intendency  of  Sonora  146,635 

4.  Intendency  of  Guadalaxara  73,628 

5.  Intendency  of  Valladolid  26,396 

6.  Intendency  of  Mexico  45,401 

7.  Intendency  of  Puebla  20,65 1 

8.  Intendency  of  Oaxaca  34,064 

*  Cape  Mendocino,  in  lat.  41°  N.  is  claimed  by  Spain  as  the  northern  boun- 
dary of  New- California;  but  Port  St.  Francis  is  the  highest  settlement. 

f  Monsieur  de  la  Salle,  in  1683,  planted  a  colony  on  the  bay  of  St.  Bernard, 
near  the  E  bank  of  the  Colorado,  without  having  appearatl  to  encroadi  on  the 
rights  of  Spain.  No  settlement  of  France  was  ever  planted  W.  of  the  Colo  ado 
and  no  Spanish  settlement  E.  of  it.  The  acts  of  the  parties  appear  to  have  con- 
cluded them.  As  the  United  States  claim  under  France,  they  have  only  her 
rights.  The  Colorado  must  therefore  be  considered  as  the  boundary.  If  the 
Bravo  were  the  eastern  boundary,  a  large  part  of  this  extensive  province  would 
be  comprised  in  Louisiana. 


2-8  MEXICO. 

II.  Provinces  of  the  interior  197,995 

9.  Province  of  New-Mexico  43,731 

10.  Intendcncy  of  Durango  129,247 

11.  Intendency  ofZacatecas  18,039 

12.  Intendency  of  Guanaxuato  6,978 

III.  Provinces  of  the  eastern  coast  290,613 

lo.  Intendency  of  San  Luis  Potosi  213,109 

14.  Intendency  of  Vera  Cruz  31,720 

15.  Intendency  of  Merida  or  Yucatan  45,78.4 


Total  907,541 

Two  grand  divisions  of  the  viceroyalty  ought  also  to  be  mention- 
ed. The  northern  part  of  the  country,  and  far  the  most  extensive, 
is  called  military  government ;  and  is  governed  by  two  brigadier 
generals. 

JVames.  According  to  Humboldt,  all  the  country  between  lat 
14°  and  21°  N.  was  called,  before  the  Spanish  conquest,  Anahuac. 
The  name  Mexico  was  applied  by  the  Indians  only  to  the  city,  and 
signifies,  in  the  Aztec  language,  the  habitation  of  the  god  of  war. 

History.  The  empire  of  Mexico  was  subdued  by  Cortez,  in  the 
year  152  I. 

The  ancestors  of  the  Mexicans,  according  to  their  traditions, 
consisted  of  several  savage  tribes,  who,  about  the. 10th,  or  1 1th  cen- 
tury of  the  Christian  era,  moved  in  successive  migrations  from  un- 
known regions  to  the  N.  and  N.  W.  and  settled  in  Anahuac*  About 
the  beginning  of  the  13th  century,  a  tribe,  more  polished  than  the 
rest,  advanced  from  the  borders  of  the  Californian  gulf  and  took 
possession  of  the  plains  adjacent  to  the  great  lake,  near  the  centre 
of  the  country.! 

The  peninsula  of  California  was  discovered  by  Cortez,  in  1536, 
after  enduring  incredible  hardships,  and  encountering  dangers  of 
almost  every  species.  During  a  long  period  it  continued  to  be  so 
little  frequented,  that  even  its  foi'm  was  unknown,  and  in  most  maps 
it  was  represented  as  an  island.  Sir  Francis  Drake  was  the  first 
-ivho  took  possession  of  it,  in  1578,  and  his  right  was  confirmed  by 
'the  principal  king  or  chief  in  the  whole  country. 

New-Mexico  was  discovered  by  a  missionary,  in  1581,  but  was 
not  subdued  till  1  6  14.  The  missions  were  established  here  in  1660. 
The  capital  of  Santa  Fe  was  founded  in  1689. 

In  1765  a  war  commenced  between  the  Spaniards  and  natives, 
which  ended  in  1771,  in  the  submission  of  the  latter. 

The  late  revolutionary  movements  in  Mexico  and  South- Ameri- 
ca form  a  new  and  interesting  epoch  in  their  history,  of  which,  as 
they  relate  to  Mexico,  particularly,  we  have  no  specific  informa- 
tion. 

Religion.  The  church  of  Mexico  is  placed  under  the  care  of  an 
archbishop,  whose  appropriate  diocese  is  the  intendency  of  Mexi- 
-t-o,  and. 8  bishops.  Tiie  following  is  a  list  of  the  dioceses,  and  the 
stated  revenue  of  each  : 

•  Robertson.  f  Clavigero. 


MEXICO. 


27-9. 


Mexico 

Pucbla 

Valladolid 

Guadalaxara 

Durango 


double  piastres. 
1 30,000 
110,000 

loOjOoa 

90,000 
35,000 


Monterey 
Yucatan 
Oaxaca 
Sonora 


double  piastres^ 

30,000 
20,000 
18,000- 
6,000 


Total     539,000* 

The  number  of  Mexican  clergy  is  about  10,000,  the  half  of  whom 
are  regulars,  who  wear  the  cowl.  If  lay  brothers  and  sisters  or 
servants  are  included,  they  may  all  be  estimated  at  13,000  or 
14,000.  The  lands  of  the  Mexican  clergy  amount  to  500,000/.  or> 
600,000/.  sterling  ;  and  the  capitals  of  the  religious  communities;, 
secured  on  mortgage,  to  44,500,000  double  piastres,  or  dollars. 

Govermnent.  The  jurisdiction  of  the  viceroy  extends  over  the 
•whole  country,  but  is  more  immediately  confined  to  the  southern 
intendencies.  The  limits  of  the  jurisdictions  of  the  two  audiences 
have  already  been  stated  ;  as  have  those  of  the  two  brigadier  gen- 
erals in  the  north.  The  intendencies  are  each  committed  to  an  in- 
tendant.  The  provinces  of  New-Mexico  and  the  two  Californias 
have  no  intendants,  and  are  left  to  the  immediate  management  of 
the  missionaries. 

Pbfiulation.  Only  one  census  has  ever  been  taken  of  the  inhab- 
itants of  this  viceroyalty.  This  was  under  the  administration  ot 
count  Revillagigedo,  in  1793.  Like  similar  enumerations,  in  the 
other  Spanish  colonies,  it  fell  far  short  of  the  truth  :  Humboldt 
says  at  least  one  sixth.  The  following  table  contains  the  result  of 
the  census  of  1793  ;  also  Humboldt's  estimate  of  the  population  in 
1803,  founded  on  that  census,  on  the  known  omissions,  for  which 
only  one  tenth  is  allowed,  and  on  the  natural  increase,  calculated 
from  the  proportion  between  the  number  of  births  and  deaths  : 


Intendencies. 

1793 

1803 

Principal  towns. 

Inhab.  in 

1803. 
700 

New-California  > 
Old-California  3 

12,666 

15,600 

Monte  roy 

9,000 

Loretto 

Sonora 

93,396 

121,400 

Culiacan 

10,800 

New-Mexico 

30,953 

40,200 

Taas 

8,900 

Durango 

122,866 

159,700 

Durango 

12,000 

San  Luis  Potosi 

255,2a0 

334,900 

San  Luis  Potosi 

12,00':^ 

Zacatecas 

118,027 

153,300 

Zacatecas 

33,000 

Guadalaxara 

485,000 

630,500 

Guadalaxara 

1 9,500 

Valladolid 

289,314 

376,400 

Valladolid 

18>00O 

Guanaxuato 

397,924 

517,300 

Guanaxuato 

70,600 

Mexico                1 

,162,886 

1,511,800 

Mexico 

137,000 

Puebla 

625,620 

813,300 

Puebla 

67,800 

Vera  Cruz 

120,000 

156,000 

Vera  Cruz 

16,000 

Oaxaca 

411,366 

534,800 

Oaxaca 

24,oori 

Merida 

.358,261 

465,800 

Merida 

io,aO'> 

Total    - 

1,483,529 

5,840,000 

•112,300/.  sterling. 


280  MEXICO. 

Grounding  his  calculations  on  the  known  excess  of  births  over 
deaths,  Humboldt  supposes  the  population  in  1808  exceeded 
6,500,U00. 

Languages.  The  number  of  native  lant^uages  exceeds  20.  Of 
these  14  have  grammars  and  dictionaries  tolerably  compic-te. 

Literature.  In  the  Snanish  settlemtntb  are  a  number  of  valua- 
ble inbtltutions  for  the  ecijcation  of  tiie  aborigines.  T  ,ere  are  also 
several  colleges  and  universities,  but  tiie  lanatical  and  sectarian 
spirit  of  their  instructers  render  them  of  little  value. 

Cities  mid  Towns.  Mexico,  the  largest  town  in  Spanish  Amer- 
ica, is  situated  in  the  valley  of  Mexico,  in  lat.  19  25  45  is^  and  ion. 
99  5  30  W.  The  centre  of  the  town  is  nearly  3  miles  \V.  of  the 
shore  of  lake  Tezcuco.  Humboldt  dates  its  foundation  in  1325. 
The  streets  run  nearly  from  N.  to  S.  and  from  E.  to  W.  and  are 
long,  broad,  and  regular.  Most  of  them  are  paved,  and  ail  arc 
clean,  ar.d  well  lighted.  The  site  of  the  town  is  almost  an  uniform 
level  ;  and  it  forms  a  great  square,  of  which  each  side  is  about  3000 
yards.  The  objects  here,  particularly  calculated  to  strike  a  travel- 
ler's attention,  are  the  cathedral  ;  the  treasury  ;  the  convents,  of 
vhich  23  are  monasteries,  and  15  nunneries;  the  hospital,  which 
maintains  1400  paupers,  with  a  revenue  of  10,470/.  sterling  ;  the 
acordada,  a  collection  of  prisons  ;  the  school  of  mines,  with  its  col- 
lections in  physics,  mechanics,  and  mineralogy  ;  the  university  and 
public  ilbiary,  the  buildings  of  which  are  unworthy  so  ancient  an 
establishment ;  the  academy  of  tine  arts  ;  and  the  large  equestrian 
statre  of  C  unles  IV.  The  census  of  1793,  gave  a  population  of 
1 12,925,  I  it  fell  considerably  short  of  the  actual  nunil^jr.  Hum- 
boldt estiv  ated  it  in  )  803  at  1  37,000,  consisting  of  2500  Europeans, 
65,000  Creoles,  33,000  Indians,  26,500  mestizoes,  and  10,000  mu- 
lattops. 

'  PuKBLA  stands  in  lat.  19°  N.  and  Ion.  98°  W.  in  the  plain  of  Acax- 
ete,  at  an  elevation  of  7380  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  Its 
population,  according  to  Humboldt's  estimate,  is  67,800.  It  is 
about  30  leagues  E.  S.  E.  of  Mexico. 

GuANAXUATo  was  founded  in  1554,  and  stands  about  50  leagues 
N.  W.  of  Mexico.  Its  elevation  is  6836  feet  above  the  ocean.  The 
population,  according  to  Humboldt,  is  41,000  within  the  city,  and 
29,6U0  in  the  niinLS  surrounding  it,  of  whom  4500  are  Indians- 
tola!  70.600. 

Zacatecas  lies  more  than  100  leagues  N.  N.  W.  of  Mexico, 
and  coii'.ains,  according  to  Humboldt,  33,000  inhabitants. 

Oaxac  A  lies  near  the  E.  bank  of  the  Rio  Verde,  about  80  leagues 
S.  S.  E.  of  iviexico,  and  contains  24,000  inhabitants. 

AcAPULco  is  on  the  Pacilic,  in  lat.  16  30  20  N.  and  in  Ion.  99 
46  W.  Its  port  is  the  best  on  the  western  coast.  The  town  was 
formerly  large  and  populous,  while  the  trade  by  the  galleons  con- 
tinued. Its  steady  population  does  not  now  exceed  4000,  and  they 
are  chiefly  mujatlous. 

Vera  Cruz  is  on  ihe  gulf  of  Mexico,  in  lat.  19  11  52  N.  and 
Ion.  96  9  W.  The  cuy  is  beautifully  and  regularly  built,  and  in- 
habited by  well  informed  merchants.      It  stands  in  an  arid  plain, 


MEXICO.  261 

destitute  of  running  water,  on  whic!-  N.  winds,  that  blow  impetu- 
ously from  October  till  April,  have  formed  hills  of  moving  sand. 
The  population  is  about  16,000.  The  fortress  of  San  Juan  de  Ul- 
l6a,  on  an  island  near  the  tovvn,  cost  8,334,000/.  sterlinsj^. 

Monterey,  the  capital  of  the  two  Califurnias,  and  the  residence 
of  their  governor,  is  a  mere  hamlet,  with  a  dangerous  harbor.  It 
was  founded  in  i770. 

St.  Leon  and  Granada  are  both  situated  on  lake  Nicaragua, 
where  the  Andes  are  said  to  terminate. 

Santa  Fe  is  remarkable  as  the  most  northern  town  of  any  note  ill 
New-Mexico.     A  bishop  and  provincial  governor  reside  here. 

Roads.  A  road  was  long  since  opened,  from  I^ouisiana  to  Mex- 
ico, by  the  inhabitants  of  the  former  territory  ;  who  went  to  pur- 
chase horses  in  the  interior  provinces.  According  to  Humboldt, 
it  is  540  geographical  leagues,  or  1920  miles  long,  equal  to  the  dis- 
tance of  Madrid  from  Warsaw.  From  Mexico  it  passes  through 
Queretaro,  San  Luis  Potosi,  Charcas,  Saltillo,  Loredo  on  the  banks 
of  the  Bravo,  Bejar,  Chichi,  the  Adayes,  fort  Claiborne,  and  Nachi- 
toches. 

A  carriage  may  pass  from  Chihuahua,  in  lat.  28  45,  to  Santa  Fe, 
in  lat.  'is  15.  A  sort  of  caleche  is  generally  used.  The  road  is 
beautiful  and  level,  and  passes  along  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Bravo, 
crossing  it  at  the  Passo  del  Norte.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  very 
picturesque,  and  are  adorned  with  beautiful  poplars  and  other  trees 
peculiar  to  the  temperate  zone. 

A  courier  goes  on  horseback  from  Guatemala  to  Mexico,  and 
thence,  through  Guadalaxara  and  Real  de  Rosario,  to  Santa  Cruz, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Mayo.  Here  he  crosses  the  gulf,  and  disem- 
barks at  Loretto.  From  this  village  letters  are  sent  from  mission 
to  mission,  to  Monterey  and  Port  St.  Fiancis.  They  thus  traverse 
a  route  of  more  than  920  geographical  leagues,  or  3100  miles  j 
equal  to  the  distance  of  Lisbon  from  Cherson. 

Climate.  Only  two  seasons  are  known  in  the  tropical  regions  of 
Mexico,  even  as  far  as  lat.  28°  N. ;  the  rainy  season  of  four  months, 
which  commences  in  June  or  July,  and  ends  in  September,  or  Oc- 
tober ;  and  the  dry  season  of  eight  months,  which  lasts  from  Octo- 
ber to  May.  The  first  rains  commence  on  the  eastern  coast,  and 
are  accompanied  with  strong  electrical  explosions.  They  begin  at 
Vera  Cruz  15  or  20  days  sooner  than  on  the  central  table  land  j 
and  there,  sooner  than  on  the  Pacific.  The  most  rains  fail  on  the 
highlands. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  lands  on  Ijoth  roasts,  are  low  grounds, 
intersected  with  very  hiconsiderable  hills.  In  the  south,  these  tracts 
are  narrow,  but  wider  on  the  west,  than  on  ihe  east.  Farther  north, 
near  the  borders  of  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Guadalaxara,  the  low  coutj- 
try  widens  ;  and  above  the  parallel  of  lat.  2-i°,  is  of  very  considera- 
ble ijreadth.  Merida,  or  the  peninsula  of  Yucatan,  is  chicHy  of  this 
description  ;  however,  a  chain  of  hills  of  small  elevation  intersects 
it  from  S.  W.  to  N.  E.  The  whole  of  Vera  Cruz  is  level,  and  ail 
of  it  low,  except  the  high  plain  between  Perotc  and  the  Pic  d'  Ori- 
zaba. Nevv-Santander,  New-Leon,  Cohuuila;  and  Texas,  are  almost 
56 


282  MEXICO. 

unifersally  plains  of  small  elevation.  In  Guadalaxara  and  Sonera 
on  the  W.  there  is  also  a  broad  tract  of  low  ground  between  the 
sea  and  the  mountains.  In  Old-California  the  level  land  is  narrovr 
on  both  coasts  ;  and  New-California  is  only  a  narrow  plain  W.  of 
the  monntains. 

The  Cordillera  in  Mexico  docs  not,  like  njost  other  ranges  of 
tnoxintains,  consist  of  a  narrow  ridge,  or  of  several  such  ridges  par- 
allel with  each  other,  with  valleys  between  them  ;  but  it  is  many 
leagues  in  breadth,  and  the  top  is  a  broad  plain,  or  table  land,  from 
6000  to  8000  or  9000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean. 

The  -valley  of  Mexico^  is  about  230  miles  in  circumference,  and 
has  an  elevation  of  about  7400  feet.  The  lake  of  Tezcuco  is  near- 
ly in  its  centre.  The  length  of  the  valley  from  the  southern  shore 
of  lake  Chalco,  in  a  N.  W.  direction  to  the  Cerro  de  Sincoque,  is  65 
miles  ;  and  its  breadth  43.  The  mountains  which  surround  it  are 
of  considerable  elevation  above  it.  Many  such  valleys,  but  gene- 
rally of  a  smaller  size,  are  found  scattered  over  the  top  of  the  table 
land. 

Soil  and  Jgricultzire.  This  soii  of  the  table  land  is  rem.arkably 
produciive.  Maize  is  far  the  most  important  object  of  agriculture, 
and  the  year  in  which  the  maize  harvest  fails  is  a  year  of  famine  for 
Mexico.  Humboldt  estimates  the  common  produce  at  150  fold. 
In  the  most  warm  and  humid  regions  it  will  yield  from  two  to 
thi  ee  harvests  annually,  but  generally  only  one  is  taken.  It  is 
planted  from  the  middle  of  June,  to  the  end  of  August.  The  com- 
mon anijiial  produce  of  tlie  whole  of  Mexico  is  estimated  by  Hum- 
boldt at  17  million  fanegas,  or  1765|  million  pounds,  avoirdupois. 
Rye  r,nd  barley  are  cuhivtsted  in  the  highest  regions.  The  best 
ciimaie  for  wheat,  is  found  to  be  th.e  annual  average  of  64°,  or  65°. 
Humboldt  estimates  tl-.e  common  wheat  harvest  at  220|.  millions 
of  pounds,  avoirdupois.  Oats  are  very  little  cultivated.  The 
banana  of  Mexico,  called  the  platano-arton^  probably  yields  more 
nutiimcnt  on  a  given  spot  of  ground,  than  any  other  vegetable. 
In  the  best  lands,  the  fruit  gi'ows  sometimes  from  1 1  to  12  inches 
in  length,  and  ol'trn  from  8  to  9.  In  such  soils,  a  cluster  of  banan- 
as will  contain  from  160  to  180  fruits,  weighing  from  60  to  90 
pounds.  The  plant  is  cultivated  by  suckers.  In  8  or  9  months, 
the  clusters  begin  to  develop,  and  the  fiuit  n)ay  be  collected  in  the 
lOth  or  1  1th.  After  the  fruit  is  plucked,  the  old  stalk  is  removed, 
and  a  new  one  springs  up  spontaneously.  A  spot  of  ground  of  100 
square  n^etrcs,  (1076  square  feet)  may  contain  from  30  to  40  plants. 
In  one  year  the  produce  will  exceed  4400  pounds  of  fruit. 

Two  species  of  the  juca  (out  of  whose  root  the  maniac  bread  is 
made)  are  cuhlvalcd,  tiie  siveet  and  the  bitter  ;  but  they  will  not 
grow  at  a  greater  height  than  2000  or  2500  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  ocean.  This  bitad  is  remarkably  nutritive.  The  juca  is  culti- 
vated like  the  potato,  and  is  ripe  in  8  months. 

The  Mexicar.s  now  possess  all  the  garden  stuffs  and  fruits  of 
Europe.  Onions,  leeks,  garlic,  haricots,  cresses,  and  artichokes, 
were  indigenous.  The  central  table  land  produces  in  the  greatest 
abundance,  cherries,  prunes, peaches,  apricots, figs,  grapes,  melons. 


MEXICO.  283 

apples,  and  pears.     The  fine  native  fruits  are  the  anana  or  pine 
apple,  tasconia,  or  sapote,  mameis,  guava,  chilimoya,  and  anona. 

Rivers.  The  "  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte.  It  has  its  annual  freshets 
like  the  Missisippi.  The  Avatcrs  begin  to  swell  in  April,  are  at 
their  height  in  May,  and  fall  towards  the  end  of  June.  The  Passo 
del  jVorte^  is  a  village  planted  at  the  place,  where  the  road  from  Chi- 
huahua to  Santa  Fe  intersects  the  Bravo.  In  1 752  the  whole  bed  of 
the  river,  for  more  than  30  leagues  above,  and  20  below  the  Passo 
became  suddenly  dry.  The  water  precipitated  itself  into  a  newly 
formed  chasm,  and  reappeared  near  San  Eleazario.  Alter  a  lapse 
of  several  weeks,  it  resumed  its  ancient  course.  The  Choncos  is  a 
large  branch  from  the  \V.  running,  according  to  the  map  of  Hum- 
boldt, about  400  miles,  and  emptying  at  the  Presidio  del  Norle,  in 
lat.  30  30  N.  The  Puerco  is  somewhat  longer,  and  flows  nearly 
parallel  with  the  Bravo,  emptying  in  lat.  50°.  lib  waters  are  re- 
markably muddy. 

The  Colorado  of  California  has  also  been  described.  The  Gila, 
its  largest  tributary,  rises  according  to  Humboldt's  map,  in  the 
Cordillera  ;  and  runs  a  little  S.  of  W.  about  600  miles,  falling  into 
the  Colorado,  near  its  mouth. 

The  other  Colorado  is  but  little  known.  It  is  a  long  and  large 
river,  running  probably  about  700  or  800  miles  in  an  E.  or  S.  di- 
rection, and  emptying  into  the  N.  W.  corner  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico, 
in  lat.  29  1 5  N. 

The  Rio  de  las  Nueces  is  a  large  stream  N.  E.  of  the  Bravo,  and 
parallel  with  it. 

The  river  Tula,  or  Montezuma,  under  the  name  of  Gautillan, 
rises  in  the  Cordillera,  which  skirts  the  valley  of  Mexico  on  the  W. 
It  runs  in  the  valley  about  30  miles  ;  the  first  20  in  a  N.  E.  and  the 
last  10  in  a  N.  N.  VV.  direction.  Just  at  the  bend,  it  passes  about  a 
mile  W.  of  Ukc  Zumpango,  and  leaves  the  valley  at  the  N.  W. 
corner,  passing  between  the  Cerro  de  Sinccque,  on  the  W.  and  the 
Loma  of  Nochistongo,  on  the  E.  Continuing  the  same  course  to 
iat.  20,  it  there  bends  a  little  to  the  E  ;  and  at  length,  being  joined 
by  the  Panuco,  takes  the  name  of  Rio  Tempico.  It  is  the  largest 
river  of  tlie  eastern  coast  S.  of  the  Bravo. 

The  river  Santiago  issues  from  the  iiitle  lake  of  Lorma,  20  miles 
S.  W.  of  Mexico  without  the  valley,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  range 
that  skirts  it  on  the  W.  After  a  course  of  250  miles,  in  which  it 
is  called  Rio  Larma,  it  enters  the  E.  end  of  lake  Chapala.  This 
it  leaves  again  on  the  N.  side,  at  the  distance  of  about  30  niiles 
from  its  entrance  ;  and  taking  the  name  of  Rio  Santiago,  runs  W. 
N.  W.  and  S.  W.  about  400  miles  farther.  It  euters  the  Pacific  by 
a  broad  mouth  in  lat.  21  30  N. 

The  Zacatula  is  a  stream  of  considerable  length  in  the  inten- 
dency  of  Mexico.  The  Culican,  Mayo,  and  Haiqui  are  the  larg- 
est rivers  of  Sonora. 

Lukes.  Lake  Chapala  is  far  the  largest  in  Mexico.  It  lies  W.  by 
N.  of  the  capital,  just  above  the  latitude  of  20*^ ;  covering,  according 
to  Humboldt,  nearly  160  square  marine  leagues,  or  1225  sqviare 
miles  i  and,  by  his  luap,  is  about  90  miles  long,  ftnd  20  bread. 


284  GUATEMALA. 

There  are  four  lakes  in  the  valley  of  Mexico,  The  Lake  of  Chal-r 
(po,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  valley,  covers  50  square  miles. 

The  Lake  of  Tczcuco,  as  well  as  the  other  three,  was  formerly 
much  larger  than  it  is  at  present.     It  lies  N.  of  the  Chalco,  about 
4  miles  from  it  ;    and  is  14  miles  long  from  S.  S.  W.  to  N.  N.  E. 
and  8  broad,  containing  77   square  miles.     The  floating   gardens^ 
on  its  surface  are  probably  the  most  elegant  exertion  of  horticulture. 

The  Lake  of  San  Chribtoval  lies  less  than  a  mile  N.  N.  W.  of 
Tezcuco,  and  covers  27|  square  miles.  Its  length  from  N.  to  S.. 
is  10  miles.     Its  surface  is  1 1  feet  8  inches  above  lake  Tezcuco. 

Lake  Zumpango,  N.  W.  of  San  Christoval,  and  3  miles  from  it, 
covers  a  surface  of  10  square  miles,  and  is  29  feet  higher  than  Tez- 
cuco. The  Rio  Guautillan,  the  present  source  of  the  Montezuma, 
formerly  emptied  into  this  lake,  but  to  prevent  inundations,  it,s 
course  was  diverted  out  of  the  valley. 

The  lake  of  Pascuaro  is  in  the  intendency  of  Valladolid,  and  is  a 
most  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  affording  several  delightful  situations 
for  towns.  The  lakes  of  Mextillan  and  Parras  are  in  Durango. 
The  former  is  the  largest  in  the  viceroyalty,  except  Chapala. 

Mineralogy.  In  Skinner's  account  of  Peru  wc  are  informed,  that 
the  produce  of  the  Mexican  gold  mines,  in  1790,  was  5024  mark? 
of  gold,  at  SI 25  the  mark  ;  and  2,179,455  marks  of  silver,  at  g8. 
the  mark.  These  sums  were  actually  coined  at  Mexico,  and 
amounted  to  §628,000  in  gold  ;  and  to  §17,435,640  in  silver  :  total 
SI  8,063,640. 


CAPTAINGENERALSHIP  OF  GUATEMALA, 

Extent.  THIS  country,  the  most  southern  in  North-America, 
reaches  on  the  Pacific  from  the  Barra  de  Tomala,  in  lat.  16  12  N. 
and  Ion.  94  15  W.  to  Punta  Gorda,  in  about  lat.  9°  N. ;  and,  on  the 
gulf  of  Mexico,  from  the  southern  limit  of  the  province  of  Merida, 
to  the  mouth  of  Rio  Doradas,  in  about  10°  N.  Its  length,  along  the 
Pacific,  is  about  770  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth,  across  the  covui- 
try  of  Honduras,  is  o8u  ;  but,  at  each  end  it  is  much  narrower. 

Boundaries.     On  the  N.  lie  the  province  of  Merida,  in  Mexico, 

and  the  bay  of  Honduras  ;  on  the  E.  the  gulf  of  Darien  ;  on  the  S. 

X'-  the  province  of  Vcragua,  in  New-Granada  ;    on  the  S.  W.  the 

Pacific  ;  and  on  the  N.  W.  the  province  of  Oaxaca,  in  Mexico. 

''  DiDi&ions.     This  country  is  divided  into  t!ie  following  provinces  : 

Chiapa  Honduras 

Vera  Pas  Nicaragua 

Guatemala  Costa  Rica 

Government.  Itio  governed  by  its  own  captain  general  and  au- 
dience, botii  of  whom  reside  at  Guatemala. 

Population.  It  is  said  to  be  the  most  populous  country  in  Span- 
ish America  ;  but  we  have  seen  no  estimate  of  its  actual  popula- 
tion. Tiie  English  have  a  settlement  at  Honduras,  on  the  N.  coast,_ 
containing,  according  to  captain  Henderson,  200  whites,  500  mu- 


WEST^INDIES.  285 

lattoes  and  free  blacks,  and  3000  slaves.  The  Indians  in  Honduras 
are  still  very  numeroub. 

Tonvns.  Guatemala  is  the  capital.  It  stands  on  the  river  Vac- 
€US,  near  the  Barra  d'  Istapa.  Lat.  13  40  N.  Ion.  90  30  W.  It  is 
a  large  town,  containing  a  university  and  numerous  convents  and 
churches,  but  we  have  seen  no  estimate  of  its  population.  It  is  an 
archbishopric. 

Leon  is  the  capital  of  Nicaragua,  stands  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
lake  of  Leon,  and  is  a  bishopric. 

CivDAD  Rkal  is  in  the  province  of  Chiapa.  It  is  deiightfuliy 
situated  in  a  plain  surrounded  with  mountains,  and  almost  equi- 
distant from  the  two  oceans.  It  contains  a  noble  cathedral,  3  u^o- 
nasteries,  and  1  nunnery. 

Chiapa  de  los  Indos  is  the  largest  Indian  town.in  Guatemala. 
It  lies  W.  of  Civdad  Real,  and  has  about  20,000  Indian  inhabitants. 
The  number  of  whites  is  small.  Bartholomew  cle  las  Casas,  the 
celebrated  apostle  of  the  Indians,  was  the  first  bishop  of  Chiapa. 
The  town  contains  numerous  cloisters  nnd  churciies. 

Productions.  This  country  procucts  great  quantities  of  choco- 
late, cochineal,  cotton,  indigo,  honey,  some  balsam,  and  woad.  The 
merchandize  of  the  province  is  generally  conveyed  to  the  port  of 
St.  Thomas,  in  the  buy  of  Honduras,  to  be  sent  to  Europe. 

River,  Lakes,  iP'c.  The  river  Chiapa  is  a  considerable  stream, 
emptying  into  the  bay  of  Campeachy.  The  lakes  of  Nicaragua 
and  Leon  have  heretofore  been  described.  The  Rio  St.  Juan  is 
t-he  outlet  of  the  former. 


WEST-INDIES. 

Situation  THE  islands,  which  have  received  this  name,  lie  be- 
tween lat.  9  30  and  28°  N.  and  between  Ion.  59  30  and  85  20  W.. 
Trinidad  is  at  the  southern  extremity,  Barbadoes  at  the  eastern, 
Marinilla  Reef  at  the  northern,  and  Cuba  at  tlic  western. 

Divisions.     They  are  divided  into  4  pi  incipal  groupes. 

I.      The  Bahamas  or  Lucayas  L^lands. 
These  consist  of  a  great  number  of  keys  or  rocks-,  and  of  1 4  prin- 
«;ipal  islands,  or  groupes  of  islands. 


1. 

Turk's  Islands 

■8.  Watling's  Island 

2. 

Caicos 

9    Guanahani 

Inaguas 

10.  Elt'uihera 

4. 

Mayaguana 

11.  Ncw-Providcnce 

5. 

Crooked  Island  Group 

12.   Andros 

6. 

Long  Island 

13.  Abaco 

7. 

Exuma 

14.  Great  Bahama 

II.     77ie  Greater 

■  ./Antilles. 

V- 

Cuba 

3.  Jamaica 

?• 

Hispaniola 

4.  Porto  Ric» 

SB*' 


WEST-INDIES. 


III.      The  Caribbean  Islands. 
1.  The  Leeward  Islands. 


f"l.  St.  Thomas 

,    ,..     .       2.  St.  John 

,  ,   ^'j  <<  3.  Torlola 
Islands  j  .    -.7-     •    o     ^ 
4.  Virgin  Gorda 

J>.  Santa  Cruz 

2.  Anguilla 

3.  St.  Martin 
St.  Bartholomew 
Saba 
Barbuda 


4. 
5. 
6. 

1.  Martinico 

2.  St.  Lucia 

3.  St.  Vincent 

4.  Barbadocs 


7.  St.  Eustaiius 

8.  St.  Christopher 

9.  Nevis 

10.  Antigua 

11.  Monserrat 

12.  Deseada 

13.  Guadaloupe 

14.  Marigalantc 

15.  Dominica 


Windward  Islands. 

5.  Grenada 

6.  Tobago 

7.  Trinidad 


IV 


1.  Margaritta 

2.  Tortuga 

3.  Orchilla 


The  Lesser  Antilles. 

4.  Bonair 

5.  Curracoa 

6.  Aruba 


JSTames.  Columbus  called  these  islands  The  Indies,  supposing 
that  they  were  really  a  part  of  India.  After  the  discovery  of  India 
by  Vasco  do  Gama,  in  1498,  by  an  eastern  course  ;  the  India  of  the 
ancients  and  the  neighboring  islands  received  the  name  of  the 
JEast-Indies  ;  and  the  India  of  Columbus,  that  of  the  West-Indies. 

The  islands,  called  by  the  English  The  Bahamas^  are  styled  The 
L.ucayas  by  the  Spaniards. 

The  word  Ajitilles  is  generally  said  to  be  a  contraction  of  a/zf/- 
insulx.,  or  islands  ofifiosite  to  the  continent. 

Columbus  named  the  Caribbean  islands  after  the  Caraibes  or  Ca- 
ribbees,  the  Indians  who  occupied  them  when  they  were  discovered. 
The  English  sailors  give  the  names  of  Windward  and  Leeward 
islands  to  the  two  divisions  of  this  group,  in  consequence  of  their 
relative  situation  with  regard  to  the  trade  winds.  The  Spaniards, 
however,  give  the  former  name  to  all  the  Caribbean  islands,  and 
the  latter  to  the  Greater  Antilles. 

The  Lesser  Antilles  received  their  name  not  of  right,  but  of  ne- 
cessity, as  no  other  had  been  given  to  the  group. 

Discoveries.  Columbus  discovered  the  Bahamas  and  Greater 
Antilles,  in  his  first  voyage,  the  Caribbean  isles  in  his  second,  and 
the  Lesser  Antilles  in  his  third. 

Oiiginal  Pojiulation.  The  Lucayans  possessed  the  Bahamas ; 
the  Arro-vauks  the  Greater  Antilles,  and  probalily  a  part  or  the 
whole  of  Trinidad  ;  and  the  Caraibes  the  other  Caribbean  islands, 
at  the  time  of  their  discovery.  The  Arrowauks,  however,  were  the 
original  occupants  of  these  also. 

Religion.  A  majority  of  the  whites  in  these  islands  are  Catho- 
lics ;  all  those  in  Cuba,  Hispaniola,  and  Povio  Rico  are  of  this  de- 


WEST-INDIES.  28r 

seription  ;  and  a  majority  in  those  of  the  Caribbean  islands,  which 
were  settled  by  the  French.  The  church  of  England  is,  however, 
the  established  religion  in  all  the  English  islands.  The  great  body 
of  the  negroes  are  still  pagans,  if  they  may  be  said  to  have  any  re- 
ligion at  all.  In  the  Spanish  islands,  they  arc  taught  by  their  mas- 
ters the  Catholic  prayers  ;  but  they  merely  leavn  them  by  rote.  In 
the  English  islands,  and  in  those  lately  belonging  to  France,  they 
never  were  taught  any  thing.  One  exception  ought,  however,  to 
be  made.  TheMoravians  have  for  a  long  period  sent  missionaries 
to  the  English  and  Danish  islands  to  convert  the  negroes  to  Chris- 
tianity. In  spite  of  the  opposition  of  the  colonial  assemblies,  the 
persecution  and  miserable  example  of  the  planters,  and  the  extreme 
degradation  of  the  blacks  themselves,  the  missionaries  have  met 
with  considerable  success.  The  number  of  converted  negro  slaves 
under  the  care  of  the  missionaries,  in  1787,  was  as  follows  : 
In  Antigua  exactly  5,465 

In  Si.  Christopher,  a  new  mission,  about  80 

In  Barbadoes  and  Jamaica  100 

In  St.  Thomas,  St.  Croix,  and  St.  John  10,000 

Then  living  in  the  West-Indies  15,645 

In  St.  Christopher  they  have  met,  since  that  period,  with  great  suc- 
cess, and  the  whole  number  of  converted  blacks  is  now  far  greater. 
We  should  not  have  believed,  but  on  the  most  irresistible  evidence, 
that  the  profligate  planters,  and,  if  possible  more  profligate  legisla- 
tures, have,  in  many  of  the  islands  made  the  most  decided  and  suc- 
cessful opposition  to  the  labors  of  the  missionaries. 

Go-verinnents.  The  nature  of  the  governments  of  the  Spanish 
colonies  lias  alre'^ -'y  been  explained.  In  the  English  islands  the 
government  is  vested  in  a  governor  or  captain  general,  appointed 
by  the  crown  ;  in  a  legislature,  consisting  of  a  council  appointed  by 
the  crown,  and  of  a  house  of  assembly  chosen  by  the  frceiiolders  ; 
and  in  various  superior  and  inferior  courts,  the  judges  to  which  arc 
appointed  by  the  crown.  The  governor  is  the  Ordinary  or  judge  of 
probate  ;  and  in  most  islands  the  sole  chancellor  ;  but  in  some  tlie 
council,  together  with  the  governor,  constitute  the  court  of  chance- 
ry. No  bill  can  become  a  law  in  any  island  without  the  assent  of 
the  governor.  After  his  assent  is  obtained  it  is  a  law  till  the  dissent 
of  the  crown  is  officially  signified.  If  the  assent  of  the  crown  is 
once  officially  procured,  no  subsequent  dissent  can  afterwards  ab- 
rogate the  law.  All  laws  must  be  in  conformity  with  the  laws  og 
England. 

Possessors.  Cuba,  the  eastern  part  of  St.  Domingo,  and  Porto 
Rico,  together  with  a  few  islets  among  the  Virgin  islands,  belong 
to  Spain  ;  the  western  part  of  St.  Domingo  is  independent ;  Svvederv 
claims  St.  Bartholomew ;  IMargaritta  belongs  to  the  republic  of 
Venezuela  ;  several  of  the  Lesser  Antilles  are  uninhabited  and  un- 
claimed. The  Bahamas,  Jamaica,  the  Leeward  islands,  with  the 
trifling  exception  already  made,  all  the  Windward  islands,  and  Bo- 
nair,  Curracoa,  and  Aruba  belong  to  the  English.  It  is  proper,, 
however,  to  remark  that  the  Dane^ 'lately  possessed  St.  Thomas, 


288  WEST-INDIES, 

St.  John,  Sama  Cruz  and  their  dependencies;  the'T)utch,  St.  Eu- 
staiius,  Saba,  Curracoa,  Bonair,  and  Aruba  ;  and  the  French,  Gau- 
daloupe,  IMartinico,  St.  Lucia,  and  Tobago:  and  that  these  islands 
arc  now,  in  common  lanc;uage,  respectively  called  the  Danish^ 
l)utch,  and  Frtnch  West-India  islands. 

Inhabitants.  The  present  inhabitants  of  these  islands  are  the  na- 
tives the  whites,  and  the  blacks.  The  whites  are  of  two  descrip- 
tions, Europeans  and  Creoles.  The  Creoles  are  whites  born  in  the 
Wcfit-Indics.  The  blacks  are  of  two  descriptions  ;  ./ree/?co/;/e'  of 
color  and  slaves.  The  free  people  of  color  include  all  the  mixed^ 
and  rs-sost  ol  the  genuine  blacks,  in  the  Spanish  colonies  ;  niost  of 
the  firsL,  and  a  few  of  the  last,  in  the  English  ;  and  but  a  small  por- 
tion ot  botli  in  the  French.  The  slaves  constitute  tbe  great  majority 
of  the  inhabitrnts  in  all  the  islands,  except  the  Spanish.  The  ap- 
pearance and  character  of  the  slaves  depends  much  on  the  district 
in  Africa  from  which  they  are  brought.  As  to  the  treatnn«::nt  of 
the  slaves  the  Spanish  code  is  the  most  mild  and  equitable.  The 
Alrican  institution  has  lately  turned  the  attention  of  parliament  to 
the  cruelty  of  the  English  slave  code,  and  to  the  fiend  like  tortures 
inflicted  by  many  of  the  planters.  We  hope  most  sincerely,  that 
the  evils  arising  from  both  will  soon  be  in  a  good  degree  remedied. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  Edwards  divides  the  West-Indian  year  in-* 
to  four  seasons  of  very  different  length.  The  spring  commences 
^vith  the  month  of  May.  The  first  periodical  rains  set  in  about 
the  middle  of  the  month.  They  continue  about  a  fortnight.  The 
thermometer,  in  this  month  averages  75  degrees,  and  commonly^ 
fails  6  or  8  immediately  after  every  diurnal  rain.  Summer  com^ 
TTicnccs  al^oiit  the  first  of  June.  The  weather  becomes  dry,  set- 
tled, and  salutary  ;  not  a  cloud  is  to  be  seen  ;  a?"d  the  sky  shines 
will)  serene  brightness.  The  heat  is  very  great  m  the  morning,  till 
about  10  ;  when  the  sea  breeze  sets  in,  and  blows  with  force  and 
regularity  from  the  S.  E.  till  late  in  the  evening.  The  medium 
heal  is  now  80°,  and  the  mercury  is  seldom  above  85°  or  below  75". 
During  the  latter  fiart  of  the  summer,  which  may  be  considered  as 
lasting  till  the  latter  part  of  September,  coolness  and  ccmfort  are 
sought  in  vain  ;  instead  of  a  regular  breeze  from  the  sea,  there  are 
laint  breezes  and  calms  alternately  ;  and  the  thermometer  occa- 
sionally rises  above  90°.  The  rains  commence  in  the  beginning 
ot  October.  The  heavens  pour  down  cataracts,  and  the  earth  is 
deluged.  These  violent  rains  last  through  the  greater  part  of 
of  November.  The  hurricane  season  comprises  the  months  of 
August,  S(  picmber,  and  October.  About  the  first  of  December, 
a  considerable  change  is  i>erccived  in  the  temperature  of  the  air  ; 
and  a  new  season  commences,  which  lasts  to  the  end  of  April.. 
The  weather  becomes  steadily  serene  and  pleasant,  and  the  tem- 
peralure  cool  ar.d  deliglitrul.  This  lasts  till  the  month  of  May,  and 
is,  to  the  sick  and  the  aged,  the  climate  of  paradise. 

ylgric  lit  litre.  Sugar  is  the  capital  object,  of  agricultural  atten- 
tion in  these  islands.  The  three  next  in  importance  are  cotton, 
indgo,  and  cofi\  e  ;  and  afier  them  cacao,  ginger,  allspice,  arnotto, 
idoes, pimento,  cloves,  and  cinnamon.    Maize, yams,  and  sv.ect  po- 


BAHAMAS.  S1&) 

tatoes,  arc  alsdf'extensively  raised  in  the  field  for  home  consump- 
tion. 

Sitffar  is  a  native  of  America,  for  it  was  found  in  the  Greater 
Antilles  by  Columbus  ;  and  the  Caraibes  had  it  in  their  own  islands 
before  they  were  planted  by  Europeans. 

BAHAMASo 

Extent.  THESE  islands  lie  between  lat.  20°  and  27°  N.  and 
between  Ion.  69°  and  8u°  W.  They  stretch  from  tlie  bank  of  the 
Nativity  in  tlie  S.  E.  to  Marinilla  Reef  in  the  N.  W.  upwards  of 
900  miles. 

Situation.  They  lie  directly  N.  of  the  Greater  Antilles,  and  are 
separated  from  Cuba  by  the  Old  Bahama  channel.  The  ijulf  of 
Florida,  or  the  New  Bahama  channel  separates  them  from  the  E, 
coast  of  East-Florida.  Througli  tbis  channel  the  gulf  stream  passes. 
History.  Columbus  discovered  Guanabani,  one  of  this  group 
of  islands,  on  the  12th  of  October,  1492  ;  and  New-Providence,  the 
most  important  in  the  group,  on  the  17th  of  the  same  month.  In 
1667,  Charles  II.  granted  all  the  Bahamas  to  the  duke  ©f  Albemarle 
and  5  others,  proprietors  of  Carolina.  In  1672,  the  first  settlement 
was  commenced  in  the  island  ot  New-Providence,  and  called  Nas- 
sau. The  islands,  soon  utter,  became  the  resort  of  pirates  j  and 
the  regular  inhabitants  suff'ered  severely,  and  for  a  longtime,  from 
their  attacks,  and  those  of  the  Spaniards.  The  celebrated  Black 
Beard,  alias  John  Teach,  was  their  leader.  He  -.vas  killed  off  the 
coast  of  North-Carolina,  Nov.  22,  1718.  The  islands  were  soon 
cleared  of  pirates,  and  a  permanent  settlement  made  at  Nassau, 
under  governor  Rogers.  The  town  was  fortified  in  1740  Early 
in  the  American  war,  the  town  was  taken  by  the  Americans,  but 
speedily  aband(jned.  The  Spaniards  took  it  again  in  17815  but  it 
was  retaken  by  col.  Deveaux,  with  ah(;Ut  70  troops,  though  garri- 
soned by  700.  Since  that  time,  all  tho  islands  have  been  in  the 
hands  of  the  English. 

Original  Pofiulation.  The  aborigines  were  called  Lucayans. 
When  first  discovered  they  were  about  40,000  in  number.  Co- 
lumbus and  his  men  were  welcomed  by  them,  with  kindness  and 
hospitality.  Scarcely  20  years  had  elapsed,  however,  before  the 
Spaniards  transported  them  all,  by  force  6r  artifice,  to  Hispaniola, 
to  dig  in  the  mines.  Some  few  effected  their  escape  from  that  isl^ 
and,  though  many  were  frustrated  in  tlie  design. 

Government.  These  islands  are  all  under  a  governor  general, 
appointed  by  the  crown.  He  is  commander  of  the  militia;  insti- 
tutes and  determines  the  sessions  of  the  legislature  ;  and  possesses 
a  negaiive  on  their  proceedings.  His  income  is  nearly  3000/.  ster- 
ling. 

Pofiulation,     The  inhabitants  are  of  two  descriptions,  the  rest' 
dents  and  the  wreckers.     From  the  loose  data  furnished  by  the  sub- 
sequent account  of  the  several  islsiids,  we  are  induced  to  believi* 
■37 


2C0  \  BAHAMAS. 

that  the  population  of  all  these  islands  amounts  to  4000  whites,  aRci' 
1 1,000  blacks,  total  15,000. 

The  residents  are  chiefly  loyalists  and  their  descendants,  who 
emigrated  from  Carolina  and  Georgia,  at  the  close  of  the  Ameri- 
can war. 

M'Kinnen  describes  the  whites  generally  as  having  regular-fea- 
tures, and  the  women  as  singularly  beautiful.  They  are  common- 
]ly  of  an  amiable  and  beneficent  disposition,  mild  to  their  slaves,  and 
public  spirited.  They  are  generally  acquainted  with  what  is  going 
on  throughout  the  Bahamas,  and  readily  engage  in  plans  of  general 
or  local  improvement. 

Cafiital.     Nassau,  the  capital  of  all  the  Bahamas,  is  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  island  of  New-Providence.     Its  harbor  is  formed  by  a 
long  narrow  slip  of  land,  called  Hog  island,  running  from  E.  S.  E. 
to  W.  N.  W.     Several  small  keys  near  the  W.  end  of  this,  render 
the  harbor  almost  completely  landlocked.     The  body  of  the  town 
is  on  the  S.  side  of  the  harbor,  and  extends  on  a  pretty  steep  accliv- 
ity, to  the  summit  of  a  ridge,  which  runs  in  the  general  line  of  the 
coast.     The  streets  are  regularly  disposed,  and  remarkably  well 
paved.     The  town  is  as  well  built  as  any  in  the  West- Indies.     The 
houses  are  chiefly  of  stone,  the  materials  of  most  of  which  were 
brought  from  the  Bermudas,  a  distance  of  more  than  200  leagues^ 
The  discovery  of  several  excellent  quarries  in  the  island  has  rem- 
edied this  great  inconvenience.     In  ihe  western  part  of  the  town  is 
a  large  open  square,  the  N.  side  of  which,  near  the  water,  is  bound- 
ed by  palisadoes.     Immediately  S.  of  this  square,  on  the  ridge,  are 
a  large  fortress  and   barracks  fur  the  troops.      There   are   two 
churches,  for  one  of  which  the  legislature  voted  5G00/.  atone  ses- 
sion ;  and  a  new  court   house,  and    gaol,   and  a  work  house.     In 
1803,  10.000/.  had  been  appropriated  for  building  an  elegant  house 
for  the  governor  general.    In  1801,  the  town  contained  1599  whites, 
752  free  blacks,  and  3861  slaves  ;  total  6212.     It  is  divided  into  2 
parishes,  each  of  which  has  a  rector,  supported  liberally,  partly  by 
the  inhabitants,  and  partly  by  the  English  society  for  propagating 
the  gospel.     The  commerce  of  the  town  is  extensive  ;  and  is  car- 
ried on  with  England,  with  the  West-Ilulies,  and   with  the  United 
States,  which  supply  it  with  live  stock  ami  provisions.     The  envi- 
rons of  the  town  consist  of  gardens,  pastures,  pineries,  and  orange 
groves.     The  roads  along  the  shore,  for  some  miles  on  each  side 
of  the  town,  are  excellent.     The  climate  is  delightful. 

Banks.  There  ai  e  tv/o  noted  banks  in  these  seas  ;  the  Great 
and  Little  Bahama  banks. 

The  Great  Bahama  bank  lies  between  lat.  21  40  and  26°  N.  and 
between  Ion.  74  50  and  80  20  W.  Its  length  from  Verde  Key  in 
the  S.  E.  to  Isaac's  Key  in  the  N.  W.  is  450  miles.  Its  breadth 
in  the  S.  is  about  140  miles. 

Little  bank  is  bounded  by  Florida  gulf,  on  the  W  ;  N.  W.  chan- 
nel on  the  S  ;  N.  E.  channel  on  the  S.  E  ;  and  the  Atlantic  on  the 
N.  E.  Its  length  from  the  Hole  in  tUe  Wall,  in  the  S.  E.  to  IVIa- 
ranilla  Reef,  in  the  N.  W.  is  about  1 80  miles,  and  its  breadth  from 
40  to  70. 


BAHAMAS.  291 

"Santareen,  Elcuthera,  Guanahani,  and  Caicos  banks,  are  all  of 
'Considerable  extent. 

These  banks  are  said  to  consist,  in  a  great  measure,  of  sea  shells, 
in  the  form  of  sand,  more  or  less  worn  or  rounded  by  the  action  of 
the  water. 

Keys.  These  are  rocks  or  sand  islands,  scattered  in  immens* 
profusion  over  this  part  of  the  ocean.  Their  number  has  been 
computed  at  700. 

Climate.  In  the  winter  the  weather  is  very  inconstant.  The 
winds,  however,  are  then  far  le&s  boisterous  than  in  the  more  north- 
ern seas.  Strong  gales  are  common,  in  March,  from  the  N.  and 
N.  E.  The  proper  hurricanes  of  the  more  southern  West-Indies 
do  not  reach  these  islands.  In  the  hurricane  months,  however,  the 
gales  often  stiffen  to  a  tempest,  and  are  very  destructive  in  their 
ravages.  They  are  so  far  ordinary  that  regard  is  had  to  them  in 
the  mode  of  building.  In  1 800,  or  the  year  after,  one  of  these  tem- 
pests drove  100  vessels  ashore  in  the  safe  and  sheltered  harbor  of 
Nashau. 

The  greatest  heat,  in  summer,  seldom  exceeded  90°  ;  and  the 
greatest  cold,  in  winter,  50°.     All  the  islands  are  healthy. 

Face  of  Che  Country.  These  islands  are  heaps  of  limestones  and 
shells,  covered  with  vegetable  mould.  The  keys  are  chiefly  rocky 
and  sandy  :  on  some  of  them  a  few  trees  are  found.  All  the  large 
islands  that  front  directly  upon  the  Atlantic,  and  almost  all  the 
etiiers,  stretch  from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.  and  the  ridge  of  each  is  in  the 
same  direction. 

Soil.  The  soil  of  all  the  islands  is  a  thin,  but  rich,  vegetable 
mould.  If  the  natural  growth  is  cleared  by  burning,  the  mould 
burns  with  it,  and  the  soil  is  ruined.  If  not,  it  yields,  for  a  number 
of  years,  luxuriantly,  and  then  is  exhausted.  Without  manure, 
which  cannot  here  be  procured  in  any  considerable  quantity,  it  will 
yield  no  longer  ;  and  the  planter  is  compelled  to  clear  a  new  plan- 
tation. 

Tiie  chief  article  of  culture  in  these  islands  is  cotton.  Guinea 
corn  is  raised  in  all  of  chem,  and  is  highly  nutritive.  Here,  also, 
are  pine  apples  and  oranges. 

Ponds.  Most  of  the  Bahamas  have  numerous  salt  ponds. 
Those  of  Turk's  island  are  the  most  valuable.  The  islands  con- 
tain no  IVesh  water  streams.  The  wells  are  necessarily  dry  to  a 
considerable  depth. 

Zoolopcy-  The  only  tame  animals  possessed  by  the  natives,  it  is 
said,  were  /larrpts^  and  a  species  of  doi^s  that  did  not  bark.  A  num- 
ber of  cats  left  on  Guanahani  by  the  early  voyagers  have  muki- 
p.ied  astonishingly  over  all  the  Bahamas.  Lizards  and  guanas  are 
abundant  and  are  thought  a  luxuiy. 

The  tall  red  bird  is  common  ;  its  flesh  is  very  rich.  Large  flocks 
of  flamingoes  are  found  in  the  buys.  The  bald  headed  pigeon,  the 
wild  pigeon,  and  green  parrot  abound  iu  the  fields  and  plantations. 
The  humming  bird  and  ground  dove  frequent  the  pineries  and 
groves,  and  the  mocking  bird  enlivens  the  shore  with  its  sprightly 
,  melody. 


%93  GREATER  ANTILLES. 

The  fish  caught  here  are  the  hynde,  grunt,  sword  fish,  kmg  fisii^ 
jew  fish,  hog  fish,  angel  fish,  bill  fish,  hound  fish,  parrot  fish,  trum- 
pet fish,  gar  fish,  bream,  ten  pounder,  and  crab.  Alligators  are  oc- 
casioBally  caught  for  the  table.  The  flesh  is  hard  and  white,  and 
resembles  that  ot  a  sturgeon. 

Island.').     Besides  the  keys  already  mentioned,  the  Bahamas  con- 
sist of  14  islands  or  groups  of  islands.      The  following  are  their 
names  in  a  geographical  order,  commencing  from  the  S.  E. 
I'urk's  Islands  Watling's  Island 

Caicos  Guanahani,  St.  Salvador,  or  Cat  Island 

Inaguas  Eleuthera  and  Harbor  Islands 

Mayaguana  New-Providence 

Crooked  Island  Group         Andros 
lyong  Island  Abaco  or  Lucaya 

Exuma  Great  Bahama 


GREATER  ANTILLES. 

Situatipn.  THIS  group  lies  between  Ion  65  oQ  and  85**  W. 
and  between  lat.  \7  40  and  23°  N.  Cuba,  Hispaniola,  and  Porto 
!Rico,  lie  in  a  line,  from  E.  S.  E.  to  W.  N.  W.  Jamaica  is  S.  of 
Cuba,  and  W.  of  Hispaniola. 

Aborigines.  The  original  inhabitants  of.all  the  West-Indies,  ex- 
cept the  Bahamas,  were  Arrowauks.  At  the  time  of  the  discovery 
they  were  the  sole  possessors  of  the  Greater  Antilles,  and  the  chief 
possessors  of  Trinidad.  From  the  other  islands  they  had  been  ex- 
terminated by  the  Caraibes.  All  the  islanders  of  this  name  had  a 
common  origin,  spoke  one  language,  possessed  the  same  institu- 
tions, and  practised  the  same  superbtitions. 

These  islands  were  divided  into  great  kingdoms,  subject  to  pow- 
erful caciques  or  hereditary  monarchs.  There  were  5  in  Hispan- 
iola, several  in  Cuba  and  Jamaica,  and  but  one  in  Porto  Rico. 
EJach  kingdom  was  subdivided  into  numerous  principalities ;  the 
princes  of  which  held  them  by  the  tenure  of  service.  The  regal 
authority  was  absolute,  but  was  administered  with  great  mildness. 

Edwards  fixes  on  3,000,000  as  the  aboriginal  population  of  the 
Greater  Antilles.  Peter  Martyr,  on  the  authoriiy  of  Columbus, 
states  that  of  Hispaniola  at  1,200,000  ;  that  of  Cuba  was  estimated 
at  1,000,000;  and  the  remainder  were  probably  nearly  equally  di- 
vided between  Jamaica  and  Porto  Rico.  '■■' 

The  Arrowauks  were  a  miid,  and  comparatively  a  cultivated 
people.  The  climate  and  the  fertility  of  the  islands  naturally  ren- 
dered them  indolent.  That  necessity,  which  urges  men  to  action, 
and,  by  exercise  invi(;orates  the  fibres,  was  here  unknown. 

Many  instances  are  recorded  of  their  generous  and  compassion- 
ate turn  of  mind,  of  their  benevoience  and  hospitality.  Excessive 
sensuality  was  the  predominant  defect  in  their  character.  Tiie  great 
5>.ody  of  the  nation  in  the  Gi  eater  Antilles  were  exterminated  with- 
in 20  years  after  the  discovery  of  Columbus. 


©HEATER  ANT&LES.  iJ9a 

£a,land8.     The  Greater  Antilles  consist  of  4  large  islands,  viz. 
Cuba  Jamaica 

Hispaniola  Porto  Rico, 

CUBA. 

This  is  the  most  western  of  the  West- India  islands,  and  larger 
than  all  the  rest-  It  lies  between  Ion.  74°  and  85°  W.  and  between 
iat.  19  45  and  23°  N.  It  is  700  miles  long,  from  E.  S.  E.  to  W. 
N.  W  ;  and,  in  the  widest  part,  150  broad  ;  containing  about  51,000 
square  miles.  Nicholas  and  Old  Bahama  channels  lie  betwccii  it 
and  the  Bahama  bank,  on  the  N.  E  ;  and  the  Windward  cjiai)ncl, 
on  the  E.  divides  it  from  Hispaniola.  The  distance  across  from 
point  Maysi  to  the  Mole  is  45  miles.  The  distance  from  cape  Cruz 
to  Jamaica  is  90;  and  from  cape  Sable  in  Florida,  to  Cuba,  130 ; 
but  from  the  edge  of  the  Florida  bank,  only  90.  It  is  divicicd  into, 
18  jurisdictions. 

Columbus  called  this  island  Juanna,  in  honor  of  the  prince,  the 
son  of  Ferdinand  ;  but  it  soon  resumed,  and  has  ever  since  retained, 
its  native  name  of  Cuba.  Columbus  discovered  it  on  the  27th  of 
October,  1 492,  but  supposed  it  to  be  a  part  of  the  continent.  Sebas- 
tian de  Ocampo  ascertained  that  it  was  an  island  in  1508.  A  body 
of  troops  from  Hispaniola,  300  in  number,  under  Diego  Velasquez, 
conquered  the  island  in  151 1.  Havanna,  the  capital,  was  built  by 
Velasquez  in  1519  ;  taken  by  the  Buccaneers  in  1659,  and  by  the 
English  in  1761. 

The  inhabitants  are  catholics.  There  are  two  bishoprics.  The 
oldest,  that  of  St.  Jago  de  Cuba,  comprehends  the  eastern  half  of 
the  island  ;  and  was  established  originally  at  Baracoa",  and  after- 
wards removed  to  St.  Jago.  That  of  Havanna  was  not  erected  till 
1788.  This  island  was  at  first  a  part  of  the  viceroyalty  of  Mexico^ 
We  have  not  been  able  to  ascertain  the  year,  in  winch,  with  Porto 
Rico,  it  was  erected  into  a  captaingeneralship  ;  nor  the  year,  in 
which  Porto  Rico  was  taken  from  it  and  made  a  separate  govern- 
ment. A  royal  audience  is  established  at  Principe  ;  and  cabildos 
and  other  interior  courts  in  the  various  towns  and  villages. 

M.  Thiery,  according  to  an  enumeration  which  he  saw  in  the 
house  of  the  governor  in  1788,  estimated  the  population  at  266,000. 
Since  that  period  it  has  been  much  increased  by  emigrations  from 
Spain,  and  from  the  Spanish  part  of  St.  Domingo  ;  and  is  probably, 
at  present,  not  less  than  350,000. 

The  regular  troops  at  the  Havanna  are  2  regiments  of  veterans, 
2  of  light  infantry,  and  1  squadron  of  dragoons;  in  all  10,000.  The 
militia  of  that  town  are  1600.  In  the  other  large  towns,  bodies  of 
regular  troops  are  also  stationed,  and  a  militia  is  found  all  over  the 
island. 

The  language  of  the  inhabitants  is  an  impure  Spanish.  Its  com- 
mon appellation  is  the  Creole-Sfianish.  The  mode  of  education 
adopted  is  ridiculous.  The  Aristotleian  philosophy  is  alone  taught, 
and  the  other  branches  are  much  the  same  as  were  in  vogue  dur- 
ing the  dark  ages.     The  university  at  the  Havanna  was  founded  in 


29i  GREATER  ANTILLES. 

■177  i.  It  has  I  professor  of  philosophy,  2  of  theology,  and  2  ofLatr- 
in.     The  state  of  the  common  schools  is  deplorable. 

The  Havanna  is  the  largest  town.  It  is  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
island,  abou'.  45  leagues  from  cape  Sable,  and  80  coastwise  fronn 
cape  San  Antonio,  its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world.  The 
entrance  is  by  a  narrow  channel  half  a  mile  long,  difficult  of  access, 
and  suongly  Ibriified  the  whole  distance,  with  platforms,  works  and 
artillery.  The  celebrated  castle  of  Moro,  fort  San  Carlos,  and  fort 
Diego,  also  protect  the  town.  No  less  than  800  cannon  are  mount- 
ed on  all  the  works.  The  rivers  Lagida,  and  Almendariz,  fall  into 
the  harbor  E.  of  the  town.  The  harbor  is  a  league  in  breadth,  and 
capable  of  receiving  1000  ships  of  war.  It  has  6  fathoms  of  water, 
and  is  so  safe  that  vessels  ride  securely  without  casting  anchor,  v 

The  shape  of  the  town  is  semicircular,  the  diameter  being  form- 
ed by  the  shore.  It  is  built  on  the  W.  side  of  the  harbor.  The 
squares  are  irregular,  and  the  streets  narrow  ;  some  of  them  are 
paved  with  iron  wood,  which  is  extremely  durable.  The  houses 
are  disfigured  with  heavy  balconies,  and  wooden  railings,  and  are 
by  no  means  elegant.  There  are  1 1  churches  in  the  town,  all  rich- 
ly ornamented,  several  monasteries,  and  2  hospitals.  The  arsenal 
is  a  superb  edifice.  The  population  has  been  estimated,  by  an  in- 
telligent traveller,  at  70,000.  A  great  deal  of  wealth  is  collected 
liere.  The  aumber  of  cabriolets  is  3000.  The  commerce  of  the 
town  is  more  extensive  tUan  that  of  any  other  in  Spanish  America. 
Provisions  are  plentiful  and  cheap. 

Principe  is  the  residence  of  the  audience,  and  the  proper  capi- 
tal. It  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  island,^  and  is  said  to  be  nearly 
as  large  as  tlie  HavariUa. 

Bayamo,  or  St.  Salvador,  is  near  the  S.  coast,  on  a  river,  which 
empties  into  a  large  bay,  of  the  same  name,  and  contains  13,000  in- 
habitants. 

St.  Jago  r>E  Cuba,  farther  E.  than  Bayamo,  on  the  same  coast, 
is  surrounded  by  a  hilly  country,  and  has  a  spacious  and  secure 
harbor  ;  the  entrance  being  by  a  channel  2  leagues  in  length,  and 
defended  by  a  casile.  The  population  is  said  to  amount  to  35,000 
or  40,000. 

San  Carlos  de  Matanzas  lies  about  20  leagues  E.  of  the  Ha- 
vanna, has  a  good  port,  and  7000  inhabitants. 

Hoiguin,  30  miles  E.  of  Trinidad,  and  Guiza,  contain  each  6000. 
The  commerce  of  the 'island  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  Catalonian 
merchants.  The  principal  imports  are  hardware,  linen, silk,  clocks 
-and  watches,  wines  and  spices.  The  great  articles  exported  arc 
iugar,  tobacco,  chocolate,  coffee,  wax,  cotton,  mahogany,  fruits, 
cattle,  and  swine.  In  1792,  the  export  of  sugar  was  upwards  of 
2,000,000  arrobas  ;  that  of  tobacco  120,000  arrobas  for  the  manu- 
factory at  St-ville,  while  14,000  were  reserved  for  the  use  of  the  isl- 
and and  the  other  colonies ;  that  of  wax  at  20,000  arrobas  ;  and 
that  of  cotto!),  6000.  In  that  year,  121  cargoes  of  negx^oes  were  im- 
ported. 

The  land  near  the  sea  is  generally  level,  except  in  the  S.  E.  part 
of  the  island.     All  the  interior  is  mountainous.     The  soil  is  every 


GREATER  ANTILLES.  29. i 

where  very  productive.  It  is  doubted  -whether  there  is  so  larp^e  a 
spot  of  ground  on  the  globe,  more  fertile  than  this.  There  are  6000 
plantations,  and  3700  farms.  Not  the  IGOth  part  of  the  island  is  un- 
der cultivation. 

A  chain  of  mountains  runs  from  E.  to  W.  from  cape  Moysi  to 
cape  Antonio.  The  Paps  of  Managua,  a  little  S.  E.  of  Havanna, 
are  the  highest  summits.  They  often  look  above  the  clouds.  Sad- 
dle hill,  near  Honda  bay,  is  a  well  known  eminence.  The  course  of 
the  ridge  thence  to  cape  Antonio  is  S.  W.  and  its  name  the  Higli 
Lands  of  Buenavista.  The  Pan  of  Matanzas  near  San  Carlos,  and 
the  Anvil  near  Barracoa,  are  landmarks  of  the  sailors. 

PiNos,  or  the  Isle  of  Pines,  lies  S.  W.  of  Xagua  bay,  about  20 
miles  from  the  coast ;    and  is  25  leagues  in   circumference.     It  is- 
mountainous,  and  covered  with  pines. 

HISPANIOLA,  ST.   DOMINGO,  OR  HAYTL 

Hispaniola  lies  between  lat.  17  40  and  20°  N. ;  and  between  Ion. 
68  30  and  74  30  W.  Its  length,  from  cape  Engano  to  cape  Ti- 
buron,  is  430  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth,  from  cape  Beata  to  point 
Isabella,  is  160.  It  contains  about  28,000  square  miles.  The 
Windward  channel  separates  it  from  Cuba  and  Jamaica. 

The  natives  called  this  island  HayiU  a  name  which  Dessalines- 
lately   revived.     Columbus  named  it  Espanola^  or  Little   Spain  : 
which,  in  pronunciation,  nearly  resembles  the  Hinfianiola  of  the  En- 
glish.    Bartholomew   Columbus  named  the  town  of  St.  Domingn 
after  his  father,  Domingo  Columbus.    From  the  town  the  name  was 
at  length  transferred  to  the  whole  island.     Columbus   discovered 
the  island  on  the  6th  of  December,  1492,  on  his  return  from  Cuba  : 
and  landed  the  same  day,  at  a  small  bay,  which  he  called  St.  Nich- 
olas.    Here  he  left  38   Spaniards.     This  was  the  hrst  Europeaiv 
colony  in  America.     Columbus  founded  a  second  town  on  the  N. 
coast  in  November  of  the   same  year,  and  called  it  Isabella.     His 
brother  Bartholomew  founded   the  town  of  St.  Domingo  in  the  S. 
E.  part  of  the  island  in  1496,  which  thenceforth  became  the  capi- 
tal, and  the  chief  focus  of  population.     Sir  Francis  Drake  pillaged 
the   capital   in    1536.      The   Ficnch   buccaneers   from    Tortuga 
established  themselves  on  the  west  end  of  the  island  about  the  year 
1655.     About    10  years  after,  this  colony  attracted  the  notice  of 
the    French   government,  which   deputed   Berirand    Dogeron   to 
transform  them  into  civilized  beings.     He  introduced  French  wo- 
men  among  them,  reconciled   the  idle  to  labor,  and  allured  new 
inhabitants  to  the  island.     In  I  669  the  number  of  planters  amount- 
ed to   more  than    1500.     Cape  Fran9ois  was  built  by  Gobin,  in 
1670.     The   cvilturc  of  the   sugar-cane  was  introduced  in  1688. 
The  planters,  in  1695,  made  a  descent  on  Jamaica,  and  carried  off 
a  considerable  number  of  negroes.     The  next  year,  the  English, 
from  Jamaica,  plundered  Cape  Fraii9ois,  and  reduced  it  to  ashes, 
Spain  ceded  the  western  half  of  the  island  to  France,  by  the  treaty 
of  Ryswick,  in  1697.     Port  au  Prince,  ia  1702^  was  made  the  sea^- 
of  government. 


J96  GREATER  ANTILLES. 

In  1722  the  French  colony  was  freed  from  the  yoke  of  exclusive 
trading  companies.  This  was  the  era  of  its  commencing  prosper- 
ity. A  company  was  formed  at  Barcelona,  in  1757,  to  build  up  the 
Spanish  colony  which  had  always  languished  ;  but  the  decree  of 
Charles  III.  in  1765,  opening  a  free  trade  to  all  the  Windward  isl- 
ands, first  gave  it  life  and  activity.  A  new  line  of  demarcation  was 
run  between  the  two  colonies  in  1776. 

An  alarming  insurrection  of  the  negroes  broke  out,  in  the  French 
colony  in  1791  ;  v.hich  deluged  half  of  the  northern  province  in 
blood.  The  national  assembly,  in  1792,  proclaimed  the  political  e- 
<juality  of  the  whites  and  free  people  of  color.  The  commission- 
ers oFthe  Fiench  government,  in  1793,  decreed  the  emancipation 
of  all  the  slaves  in  the  colony.  Spain  ceded  the  eastern  part  of 
the  island  to  France,  July  22d,  1795,  and  the  Spaniards  all  with- 
tlrew  to  Cuba  and  Pono  Rico.  Toussaint  received  the  appoint- 
ment of  general  in  chief,  from  the  French  goverjnmcnt,  in  the  lat- 
tei- part  of  1796.  The  blacks  proclaimed  themselves  independent, 
July  1st,  1801.  The  Spaniards,  in  1S08,  assisted  by  the  English, 
retook  the  eastern  pait  of  the  island.  St.  Domingo  is  now  their 
capital. 

The  Catholic  religion  was  established  in  both  colonies  previous 
to  the  lute  revolution.  Christophe  has  established  it  since,  and  has 
a  white  archbishop. 

The  population  of  the  whole  island  was  never  exactly  ascertain- 
ed, nor  that  of  the  French  part  but  in  one  instance.  That  of  thft 
Spanish  colony  was  in  the  year 

1717  18,410 

J-      (  11 0,000  whites  and  mulattocs  ?  .o-  qqo 

■    I     15,000  slaves  5     ^^' 

1810  \    ^^'^'^^^  'f''^''  ^"^^  mulattoes) 
(    30,000  slaves  5 

That  of  the  Frencii  colony  was  in  the  year 

r    14,000  whites')  f   27,717  whites"] 

1754^       4,000  mulat.  I  190,000      1788^     21,808  mulat.  1 455,08'9 

(_  172,000  slaves  J  I  405,564  slaves  J 

1767     206,000  slaves  f    30,831  whites! 

1775        32,600  whites  1790.J     24,000  mulat  [►534,8ol 

{_  480,000  slaves  J 
That  of  the  whole  island  was  estimated  as  follows  in  the  year 

{40,000  whites")  f    42,000  whites") 

28,000  mulat.  [-520,000      180W     44,000  mulat.  I  686,C  00 
452,000  slaves  J  (_  600,000  slaves  J 

The  blacks  in  the  French  part  of  the  island  have  greatly  dimin- 
ished since  1801.  Christophe  maintains  about  10,000  troops;  and 
has  2  corvettes,  9  r)rigs,  and  several  schooners,  commanded  by  a 
■wiiite  admiral.  His  siiips  have  made  some  depredations  on  Amer- 
ican commerce.  Fclion  musters  about  9000  men,  but  has  no  fleet. 
Philippe  Dos  has  increased  his  numbers  to  more  than  6000.  The 
whole  physical  force  of  the  island  must  be  of  some  moment,  for  the 
French  army,  under  Le  Clerc,  consisted  of  20,000  regular  troops  j 
yet  the  blacks  destroyed  the  greater  part  of  it)  and  drove  the  rest 
out  of  the  island. 


1797 


GREATER  ANTILLES. 


2S|r 


Cape  Francois  before  the  revolution  was  the  largest  town  in 
the  west  part  of  the  island  ;  and  contained  between  800  and  90O 
houses  of  stone  or  brick,  8000  free  inhabitants,  and  12,000  slaves. 
It  lies  on  a  bay  on  the  N.  side  of  the  island. 

Port  au  Prince  is  at  the  head  of  the  Bite.  It  was  the  scat  of 
government,  and  had  an  excellent  harbor,  but  was  very  unhealthy. 
In  1790,  it  contained  2754  whites,  and  about  12,000  negroes.  It 
had  a  valuable  commerce. 

St.  Domingo,  the  capital  of  the  Spanish  colony,  is  about  30 
leagues  from  the  E.  end  of  the  island,  on  the  W.  bank,  of  the  Oza- 
ma.  The  harbor  is  large  but  not  very  secure.  The  cathedral  is 
a  noble  Gothic  pile,  in  which  the  p.shes  of  Columbus  rested,  till 
1796,  when  they  were  removed  to  the  Iluvanna.  The  population 
of  the  town,  was  estimated  at  20,000,  in  1810. 

St.  Nicholas,  or  The  Mole,  was  the  first  European  settle- 
ment in  America, 

The  average  amount  of  exports  from  the  French  colony,  in  the 
years  1787,  1788,  and  1789,  and  the  actual  amount  in  1791,  were 
as  follows : 


Average  of 

3  years. 

1791 

livres. 

livres. 

Clayed  sugar 

lbs.   58,642,214 

41,049,549 

70,227,708 

67,670,78  U 

Muscovado 

lbs.   86,549,829 

S4,619,9>31 

93,177,512 

49,94  t,56r 

Coffee 

lbs.   7  1,663,!  87 

71,663,187 

68,151,180 

5  1,890,748 

Cotton 

lbs.   6,698,858 

12,397,716 

6,286,126 

17,572,252 

Indigo 

hhds.  95  1,607 

8,564,463 

930,016 

10,875,120 

Cacao 

lbs. 

150,000 

120,000 

Molasses 

hhds.  23,061 

2,767,320 

29,502 

1,947,132 

Tafia 

hhds.  2,600 

312,000 

303 

21,816 

Raw  hides 

No.  6,500 

52,000 

7,837 

78,870 

Tanned  do. 

No.  7,900 

1  18,500 

5,186 

93,548 

Tortoise  shell 

lbs. 

5,000 

50,000 

Guiacum,  aca 
and  mahog 

j°^?    lbs. 
any  5 

Livres 

1,500,000 
Livres 

40,000 

171,544,666 

200,301,634 

or 

S22,030,260 

or  g25,723,312 

The  amount  of  duties  paid  in  1791  was  6,924,166  livres.  The 
imports  from  France,  in  1788,  amounted  to  86,414,040  livres. 
The  three  principal  articles  were  dry  goods,  wines,  and  flour. 
In  the  same  year  98  French  vessels  imported  from  Africa  29,505 
negroes,  which  sold  for  61,936,190  livres.  The  imports  from 
foreign  countries,  in  that  year,  were  16,538,820  livres,  in  1022 
small  vessels,  measuring  71 ,162  tons  ;  making  a  total  of  imports  hi 
1788of  164,389,050  livres,  in  1700  vessels  of  all  descriptions.  This 
is  exclusive  of  the  inland  trade  with  the  Spaniards. 

A  part  of  the  interior  is  iTio\intainous  ;  but  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  island  are  extensive  plains  or  savannas,  occupied  by  immense 
herds  of  swine,  horses  and  horned  cattle. 

The  soil,  in  general,  is  fcj-tile  in  the  highest  degree,  well  v.ater- 


298  GREATER  ANTILLES. 

ed,  and  producing  every  variety  of  vegetable  for  use  and  beauty. 
The  following  tables  will  exhibit  the  state  and  progress  of  agricul- 
ture in  the  French  colony  : 

Produce  of  the  different  plantations. 
1720.  1788. 

Sugar         lbs.  22,400,000  163,405,500 

Indigo  lbs.    1,200,000  150,000 

Coffee  lbs.   6,289,000 

Cacao  lbs.    150,000 

Molasses  lbs.  34,453,000 

Number  of  the  different  plantations,  &c. 

1754.  1789. 

So  gar-plantations  599                                                   792 

Indigo-plantations  3,379                                                  3,097 

Coffee-plantations  2,810 

Cacao-trees  98,946                 plantations                  69 

Cotton-plants  6,300,367                 plantations                705 

Cassia-trees  22,000,000 

Horses  and  mules  63,000 

Horned  cattle  93,000 

Banana  trees  6,000,000 

Potatoe  plots  1,000,000 

Yam  plots     '  226,000 

Trenches  of  maniac  3,000,000 

Cultivated  acres  2,290,000 

Far  the  greater  part  of  the  Spanish  province,  in  1789,  was  still  a 
wilderness.  At  that  lime  they  had  only  24  sugar  works.  Their 
chief  business  was  hunting  wild  cattle  in  the  plains.  About  1 1,000 
head  of  horned  cattle  were  annually  furnished  to  the  French  colony, 
besides  great  numbers  of  horses  and  mules.  Immense  quantities 
of  hides  were  also  exported. 

The  Bite,  or  the  Bite  of  Leogane,  is  a  very  large  bay,  at  the  W. 
end  of  the  island,  setting  up  between  cape  Maria,  on  the  S.  and 
cape  Nicholas  or  the  Mole,  on  the  N. 

Samana  bay  sets  up  at  the  E  end  of  the  island,  between  cape  Sa- 
mana,  on  the  N.  and  cape  Raphael,  on  the  S.  These  capes  are  7 
leagues  apart.  The  bay  is  20  leagues  long,  and,  on  an  average,  5 
broad. 


JAMAICA. 


Jamaica  lies  between  lat.  17  40  and  18  30  N  ;  and  between  Ion. 
76  18  and  79  57  W.  Its  length,  from  Point  Morant,  in  the  E.  to 
South  Negril,  in  the  W.  is  1 70  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth  is  60. 
The  number  of  square  miles  is  estimated  by  Edwards  at  6000. 

Jamaica  is  30  leagues  from  Cuba  ;  40  ii'om  St  Domingo,  and 
180  from  the  Musquito  shore. 


Parishes. 

Villages. 

5 

6 

8 

13 

7 

8 

GREATER  ANTILLES.  299 

The  island  is  divided  as  follows  : 
Counties.  Situation.  Towns. 

Cornwall  In  the  west  3 

Middlesex         In  the  middle  I 

Surry  On  the  east  2 

Total     6  20  2r 

The  aborigines  of  the  island  called  it  Jamaica,  and  Columbtis 
preserved  the  name. 

He  discovered  it  on  his  second  voyage,  on  the  5th  of  May,  1494 
and  marked  it  out  as  an  estate  for  his  family.  In  May,  1695,  an 
English  expedition,  under  Penn  and  Venables,  conquered  the  whole 
island.  Ever  since  that  time  it  has  remained  in  possession  of  the 
English. 

The  bishop  of  London  claims  this,  and  the  other  British  West- 
Indies,  as  a  part  of  his  diocese  ;  but  his  jurisdicton  is  renounced 
and  barred  by  the  laws  of  Jamaica. 

The  captaingeneral  of  the  island  is  usually  a  nobleman  of  high 
rank,  and  is  appointed  by  the  crown.  His  stated  salary  is  5000/.  ; 
but  the  perquisites  are  very  great.  The  whole  is  not  less  than 
10,000/.  sterling.  The  legislature  consists  of  a  council  of  12,  nom- 
inated by  the  crown,  and  holding  their  places  during  life  ;  and  of 
a  house  of  assembly,  43  in  number,  elected  by  the  freeholders. 

The  revenues  of  the  island  consist  oid^perjietual  re-venue  accord- 
ing to  the  law  of  1728,  amounting  to  12,000/.  of  v/hich  8000/.  are 
appropriated  ;  and  of  annual  funds,  provided  by  the  legislature, 
amounting  to  70,000/.  of  which  about  40,000/.  is  a  provision  for  the 
troops  stationed  on  the  island.  The  contingent  expences,  exclusive 
of  the  appropriations,  in  1788  exceeded  75,000/.  The  estimated 
value  of  all  the  property  in  the  island,  in  1787,  was  as  follows. 
Plantations  and  their  stock  £25,000,000 

Slaves  at  50/.  per  head  12,500,000 

Property  in  towns  and  vessels  1,500,000 


Sterling  £39,000,000 
The  estimates  of  the  ^wpulation  of  Jamaica,  in  1787,  and  at  pre- 
sent, are  as  follows : 

1787.  J811. 

Whites  30,000  40,000 

Maroons  1,400  "J 

Free  negroes  10,000  L  350,000 

Slaves  250,OOOj 


Total   291,400  390,000 

The  number  of  regular  troops  in  the  island  is  always  considera- 
ble. The  militia  are  computed  at  8000.  A  respectable  naval 
force  is  usually  on  the  coast. 

St.   Jago,  St.  Jago  de  la  Vega,  or  Spanishtown,  stands 

on   the  river  Cobre,  6  miles  from  its  entrance  into  Port  Royal  bay. 

Kingston  lies  on  the  N.  side  of  a  beautiful  harbor,  opening  into 

Port  Royal  bay,  about  20  miles  S.  of  E.  from  St.  Jago.     It  contain- 


300  GREATER  ANTILLES. 

ed,  in  1788,  6^539  whites,  3280  free  blacks,  and  16,659  slaves  ;■  ifjt 
all  26,478. 

MoNTEGO  Bay,  in  Cornwall,  in  the  N.  W.  is  an  opulent,  flour- 
ishing town,  and  in  1788  contained  225  houses,  of  which  33  were 
capital  warehouses. 

Port  Royal  stands  near  the  extremity  of  a  peninsula,  which 
bounds  Port  Royal  bay,  on  the  S.  E.  It  is  about  10  miles  S.  from 
Kingston  ;  and,  after  St.  Jago,  is  the  oldest  town  in  the  island.  It 
contains  about  200  houses,  a  royal  navy  yard,  the  navy  hospital,  anci 
barracks  for  a  regiment  of  soldiers. 

Savanna-j.a-Mau,  in  the  S.  W.  contains  cbout  60  houses. 

Falmouth  is  a  very  flourishing  town  in  the  N.  W. 

The  climate  of  the  coast  is  hot  and  sultry,  with  little  variation 
from  January  to  December.  This  is  particularly  true  of  the  south 
coast,  where  the  average  temperature,  from  June  to  November,  in- 
clusive, is  80°,  and  but  little  cooler  in  the  other  six  months.  Ork 
the  tops  of  the  mountains  the  general  state  of  the  thermometer  i& 
from  55"  to  63.     It  has  been  observed  as  low  as  44°. 

In  the  north  of  the  island  the  country,  at  a  small  distance  from 
the  shore,  rises  into  hills,  which  are  more  remarkable  for  their 
beauty  than  boldness.  In  the  south  the  cliffs  are  rough  and  pre-* 
cipitous,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  lower  range  of  hills  lie  vast  plains  or 
savannas,  displaying  all  the  pride  of  the  richest  cultivation. 

The  number  of  acres  in  the  island  amount  to  4,080,000.  Of 
these  only  1,907,589  had  been  located  in  December,  1791.  Even 
all  this  is  not  improved.  The  lands  in  cultivation  were  then  dis-- 
tributed  nearly  as  follows  ; 

767  sugar  plantations,  averaging  900  acres  each  690,000 

1000  pens,  or  breeding  and  grazing  farms,  at  700  each         700,000 
Plantations  of  cotton,  coftee,  pimento,  ginger,  Sec.  350,000- 


1,740,000, 
Edwards  supposes  that  the  remaining  acres  amounting  to  2,340,u00, 
are  chiefly  unfit  for  cultivation  ;  not  inerely  on  account  of  the  bar- 
renness of  the  soil,  but  principally  on  account  of  its  mountainous 
situation. 

Black  river  is  the  deepest  and  largest  in  Jamaica.  It  is  naviga-^ 
ble  for  fiat  bottomed  boats  and  canoes  about  30  miles,  and  eip.pties 
about  20  W.  of  Pedro  blufl',  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  island. 

Point  Morant,  or  East  Cape  is  the  eastern  extren/ny  of  Jamaica 
in  Ion.  76  10  \V.  and  is  the  usual  point  of  departure  for  ships 
bound  through  the  windxVard  passage.  Portland  Point  is  the  most 
southern  cape  ;  and  South-Negril  the  most  vvesteni. 

A  ridge  of  lofty  mountains,  called  the  Blue  mountains,  traverses, 
the  island  from  E.  to  W.  The  Blue  mountain  Peak,  in  the  main 
ridge,  is  743)  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Numerous  groves  of  pimento  are  found  every  where  on  the  hills, 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  island.  The  mountains  are,  in  general,  cov- 
(!;rcd  with  excellent  timber. 

Perhaps  no  country  in  tlie  world  affords  so  rich  a  variety  of  ex- 
cellent fruits,  indigenous  and  exotic. 


GREATER  ANTILLES.  301 

The  island  of  Great  Cayman  is  equidistant  from  Jamaica  and 
Cuba.  It  is  inhabited  by  descendants  of  the  old  buccaneers,  about 
160  in  number.  Their  chief  business  is  piloting,  and  fishing  for 
turtle. 

The  two  Little  Caymans.,  N.  E.  of  this,  are  not  inhabited. 

Pedro  shoals,  or  the  Bivora  bank,  lie  S.  of  the  western  half  of  Ja- 
maica, extending  upwards  of  30  leagues  from  E.  to  W.  The  Cis- 
cabel  is  a  rock  at  the  W.  end  ;  Pedro  keys  are  near  the  middle  ; 
and  the  Portland  rock,  at  the  E.  end,  is  10  leagues  S.  of  Portland 
point. 

PORTO  RICO. 

Porto  Rico  is  situated  between  lat.  17  54  and  18  30  N.  and  be- 
tween Ion.  65  30  and  67  8  W.  It  contains  about  4140  square 
miles. 

Columbus  gave  the  island  its  present  name  oi Porto,  or  Puerto 
Pico. 

The  island  was  discovered  by  Columbus  on  his  second  voyage, 
in  1493.  Juan  Ponce  explored  it  in  1508,  and  founded  the  town  of 
St.  John  de  Porto  Rico,  in  1514. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  is  now  estimated  at  200,000. 

St.  John  de  Porto  Rico,  the  capital,  is  on  the  N.  side,  about  15 
leagues  W.  from  cape  St.  Juan.  The  harbor  is  spacious  and  safe, 
and  admits  vessels  of  any  burden.  The  town  is  well  built,  and  con- 
tains about  30,000  inhabitants.  The  fortifications  are  strong  and 
commanding.  It  was  long  the  chief  seat  of  the  English  contraband 
trade,  and  is  considerably  populous. 

There  are  two  other  seaports  on  the  island,  Maraguand  and  Mia- 
guesse.  Maraguand  is  on  the  N.  side,  a  few  miles  only  E.  of  point 
Bruquen.  The  harbor  is  good  and  safe.  The  body  of  the  town  is 
3  or  4  miles  up  in  the  country.  It  contains  about  5000  inhabitants. 
'  Miaguesse  is  on  the  W.  end,  a  few  miles  N-  of  cape  Roxa.  The 
town  stands  5  miles  up  the  countiy,  is  handsomely  built,  and  con- 
tains about  6000  inhabitants. 

Hurricanes  are  not  unfrequent.  That  of  1742  was  remarkably 
destructive.  In  1778,  there  were  on  the  island  5861  plantations 
and  farms  of  every  description.  These  were  then  stocked  with 
^3,195  horses,  1515  mules,  77,384  horned  cattle,  and  49,058  sheep 
and  swine.  The  produce  for  that  year  was  2737  quintals  of  sugar, 
1 163  of  cotton,  19,556  of  rice,  15,216  of  maize,  7458  of  tobacco,  and 
9860  of  molasses. 

Cape  St.  Juan  is  the  N.  E.  extremity  of  the  island,  cape  Mala 
the  S.  E.  and  cape  Roxa  the  S.  W.  Cape  St.  Francis  is  the  termi- 
tion  of  a  promontory  on  the  W.  end  not  far  from  the  N.  side,  and. 
point  Bruquen  the  N.  W.  extremity  of  the  island. 


202  CARIBBEAN  ISLANDS. 


CARIBBEAN  ISLANDS. 

THIS  range  extends  from  lat.  9  30  to  18  45  N. ;  and  from  Ion. 
59  30  to  65  20  W.  The  form  of  the  range  is  the  arc  of  a  circle, 
commencing  at  Trinidad,  the  most  southern  ;  and  bending  N.  E. 
and  then  N.  W.  to  Bieque,  or  Crab  island,  the  most  western. 

The  Atlantic  is  on  the  E.  and  the  Caribbean  sea  on  the  W.  The 
Mosquito  shore,  the  western  coast  of  the  Caribbean,  lies  500  leagues 
W.  of  the  middle  of  the  range.  The  Cape  Verd  islands,  on  the 
African  coast,  lie  35  degrees  of  longitude,  or  780  leagues,  to  the 
eastward,  in  the  same  parallels. 

These  islands  have  already  been  mentioned,  as  consisting  of  two 
groups  ;  the  Leeward  islands  in  the  N. ;  and  the  JVindivard  islands 
in  the  S. 

The  earliest  inhabitants  of  this  numerous  group  were  Arrow- 
auks  ;  tribes  of  the  same  nation,  Avhich  occupied  the  Greater  An- 
tilles. At  a  period,  however,  long  before  the  discovery  of  Ameri- 
ca, this  peaceful  nation  had  been  chiefly  exterminated  by  the  Ca- 
raibes,  Caribs,  or  Caribbecs,  a  warlike  and  ferocious  people  from 
Guiana  on  the  continent.  They  still  occupy  all  the  coast  of  that 
province. 

The  Caraibes,  therefbre,  must  be  considered,  like  the  Mexicans, 
as  one  of  the  great  nations  of  the  continent. 

The  Caraibes  of  these  islands  lived  in  villages  that  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  European  encampment.  Their  cabins  were  built  of 
poles  fixed  circularly  in  the  ground,  and  drawn  to  a  point  at  the  top. 

Though  not  as  tall  as  the  generality  of  Europeans,  their  frames 
were  robust  and  muscular  ;  their  limbs  flexible  and  active  ;  and 
their  eyes  possessed  a  penetrating  quickness  and  wildness,  that 
seemed  an  emanation  from  a  fierce  and  martial  spirit.  Their  nat- 
ural complexion  was  that  of  a  Spanish  olive. 

A  few  remains  of  the  nation  are  scattered  over  various  parts  of 
the  Caribbean  Archipelago.  But  in  Spanish  and  Dutch  Guiana 
they  still  remain  a  formidable  body,  sufficiently  numerous  to  repel 
the  aggressions  of  the  colonists,  and  possessing  the  proud  indepen- 
dence, tlie  invincible  love  of  liberty,  and  the  ferocious  courage, 
which  so  strongly  characterized  their  ancestors. 

LEE  TV  J  Jin  ISLAjYDS. 

The  islands  thus  denominated  extend  from  lat.  15  15  to  18  45 
N. ;  and  fiom  Ion.  60  55  to  65  20  W.  On  the  S.  Dominica  is  the 
most  remote  ;  on  the  E.  Dcseada ;  on  the  N.  Ancgada  ;  and  on  the 
Yv.  Bieque  or  Crab  island.  This  last  is  only  3  leagues  from  Porto 
Rico,  one  of  the  Greater  Antilles;  and  Dominica  is  but  10  from 
Martiniqvie,  the  most  northern  of  the  Windward  islands. 

The  Virgin  islands,  Anguilla,  St.  Martin's,  Saba,  St.  Eustatius, 
Barbuda,  St.  Christopher's,  Nevis,  Antigua,  and  Montserrat,  all 
constitute  a  single  colonial  government,  under  a  governor  general. 
Dominica  has  its  own  governor. 


CARIBBEAN  ISLANDS.  303 

VIRGIN  ISLANDS. 

This  is  a  small  group  lying  E.  of  Porto  Rico,  between  lat.  17  40 
and  18  45  N. ;  and  between  Ion.  64  10  and  65  20  W.  The  ex- 
treme island  on  the  N.  and  E.  is  Anegada ;  on  the  S.  Santa  Cruz  ; 
and  on  the  W.  Bieque. 

Of  these  islands  the  Spaniards  claim  Bieque  or  Crab  island,  and 
Colubra,  Green,  or  Serpent  island  ;  together  with  Great  and  Little 
Passage  island,  and  the  Tropic  keys,  all  lying  between  the  two  first 
mentioned.  These  islands  are  attached  to  the  government  of  Por- 
to Rico,  and  are  of  no  consequence. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  principal  English  islands  with  their 
dependencies. 

Islands.  Dependencies. 

1    St  Thoma     5  ^'"^^^'  Little  Saba,  Great  St.  James,  Little  St. 

^  James,  and  Bird  islands. 
2.  St.  John  Lavango,  Cam,  and  Witch  islands. 

„    Tortol  5  ^^^'•'   ^^^"  Dyke's,  Little  Van  Dyke's,  Guano, 

l  Beef,  and  Thatch  islands. 

{Anegada,    Nicker,    Prickly    Pear,    Mosquito, 
Cammanoes,  Dog, Fallen  City, Round  Rock, Gin- 
ger,Cooper's,Salt,Petcr's,andDeadChestislands, 
5.  Santa  Cruz  or  St.  Croix. 

Columbus  discovered  these  islands  in  1493,  and  named  them  Las 
Virgiyies  or  The  Virgins.  The  Dutch  buccaneers  took  possession 
t)f  them  in  1648,  and  were  driven  out  by  a  stronger  party  of  English 
buccaneers,  in  1666. 

The  immediate  government  of  these  islands  is  vested  in  a  coun- 
cil of  12,  appouited  by  the  crown  ;  and  a  house  of  representatives. 
The  president  of  the  council  acts  as  governor  in  the  absence  of  the 
governor  general,  who  resides  at  Antigua.  These  islands  pay  400/, 
toward  the  salary  of  the  governor  general.  Four  and  a  half  per 
cent,  annually  was  paid  by  the  inhabitants  on  all  produce,  as  the 
price  of  their  government. 

These  islands  are  many  of  them  very  dangerous  to  navigators^ 
There  is  a  bason,  however,  betweenV'ii'gin  Gorda,  Tortola,  and  St, 
Thomas,  called  Sir  Francis  Drake's  Bay.,  7  leagues  long  and  4 
broad ;  in  which  ships  may  anchor,  and  be  sheltered  and  landlock- 
ed from  all  winds. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  exports  from  Tortola  and  Virgin 
Gorda,  and  their  dependencies,  in  1787  : 

Sugar  cwt.  79,203 

Rum  galls.  21,417 

Molasses  galls.  2,01  I 

Cotton  lbs.  289,077 

Dying  woods  (value)  >C6)65l     2   6 

Other  articles  (value)  ;£2,340    18   5 

The  whole  value  of  the  exports  of  that  year  was  166,959/.  12s.  6d. 
and  the  various  articles  were  carried  in  40  vessels,  measuring  65 1  6 
tons,  employing  436  men.  The  exports  from  St.  Thomas,  St.  Jolin's, 
and  Santa  Cruz  we  have  not  seen.  Those  from  Santa  Cruz  exceci 
all  the  other  four. 


.304  CARIBBEAN  ISLANDS. 

Spanish  Islands.  Bieque  or  Crab  island  is  3  leagues  from 
Porto  Rico.  It  is  14  miles  in  circumference,  has  a  rich  soil,  and  a 
5:jood  road  for  shippini^  on  the  S.  Colubra  is  of  about  equal  size, 
lies  4  leagues  N.  of  Bieque,  halfway  between  Porto  Rico  and  St. 
Thomas,  and  5  leapjues  from  each.  Great  Passage  island  is  12 
miles  E.  of  Porto  Rico,  and  between  the  other  two.  It  is  about  7 
miles  long  and  2  wide.  Little  Passage  isla?id  is  in  its  neighbor- 
liood.  The  Tro/iic  keys  are  a  collection  of  rocks,  a  little  W.  of 
Great  Passage  island. 

St,  Thomas.  This  island  is  9  miles  long  from  E.  to  W.  and  3 
broad  ;  and  12  leagues  E.  of  Porto  Rico.  It  has  a  safe  and  commo- 
dious harbor,  guarded  by  a  single  fort.  It  \vas,  while  in  the  bands 
of  the  Danes,  a  well  known  resort  of  smugglers.  Sugar,  tobacco, 
potatoes,  millet,  and  maniac  are  the  chief  objects  of  cultivation. 
The  soil  is  sandy,  and  is  badly  watered. 

St.  John.  This  is  5  miles  long  and  1  broad,  and  2  leagues  E. 
S.  E.  of  St.  Thomas.  It  is  well  watered,  and  has  a  harbor,  called 
Cratvl  Baijf  the  best  between  Antigua  and  Porto  Rico.  The  soil 
is  indifferent,  and  the  exports  trifling. 

ToRTOLA.  This  island  is  15  miles  long,  and  6  bi'oad,  and  but  a 
short  distance  N.  of  St.  John.  The  country  is  mountainous,  but 
imdcr  high  cultivation.  It  is  one  of  the  healthiest  islands  in  the 
West-Indies,  and  has  a  large  and  safe  harbor.  Sandy  Bay  and  Road 
Toivn  are  the  two  principal  settlements,  both  well  fortified.  This 
is  the  most  valuable  of  the  Virgin  islands,  except  Santa  Cruz. 

Virgin  Gorda.  The  English  call  it  Penniston^  and  corruptly 
Sfiunishiown.  It  is  8  miles  \\.  of  Tortola.  It  is  badly  watered,  and 
has  few  inhabitants.  A  mountain  in  the  centre  of  the  island  is  af- 
firmed to  contain  a  silver  mine.  Anegada^  the  largest  of  its  depen- 
dencies, is  low,  and  almost  covered  by  water  at  high  tides. 

Santa  Cruz.  The  French  call  it  ^f.  Croicc.  It  is  30  miles 
long  and  9  broad  ;  and  lies  21  leagues  S.  E,  of  cape  Mala,  in  Porto 
Rico,  and  12  S.  of  St.  John.  Columbus  discovered  it.  The  Span- 
iards, English,  and  Dutch  were  by  turns  masters  of  it  for  a  long  pe- 
riod. In  1  65  1  it  was  bought  for  the  knights  of  Malta,  who  sold  it, 
in  1664,  to  the  French  West-India  company  ;  and  by  them  it  was 
ceded  to  Denmark,  in  1696.  The  English  took  it,  with  St.  Thomas 
and  St.  Jolm,  in  1808.  Its  population  is  estimated  at  3000  whites 
and  30,000  negroes.  The  soil  is  very  fertile.  The  annual  produce 
of  sugar  has  been  from  30,000  to  40,000  hhds.  and  other  West-In- 
dia commodities  in  proportion. 


ANGUILLA. 

Anguilla.^  or  Snake  island,  was  so  called  from  its  winding  tortu- 
ous shape.  It  is  about  30  miles  long,  and  6  broad  ;  and  lies  25 
leagues  E.  by  S.  of  Virgin  Gorda,  and  50  from  Porto  Rico.  The 
climate  is  healthy,  and  the  inhabitants  strong  and  vigorous.  The 
exports,  in  1770,  amounted  to  near  6000/.  in  sugar,  rum,  and  cot- 
ton.    Maize  is  cultivated  extensively. 


Caribbean  islands.  sos 

st.  martin's. 

§t.  Martin's  is  15  miles  long  from  S.  W.  to  N.  E. ;  12  broad} 
and  5  S.  of  Anguilla.  The  Spaniards  settled  it  early,  but  abandon- 
fed  it  in  1650.  The  French  then  took  possession  of  the  northern 
half;  and  the  Dutch  of  the  southern.  The  Eng;lish  plundered  the 
t^rench  division  in  1689,  and  took  possession  of  it  in  1744,  and  of 
the  whole  island  soon  after  the  late  subjugation  of  Holland.  To- 
bacco is  the  chief  article  of  cultivation.  But  the  island  is  princi- 
pally valuable  on  account  of  its  salt  pits.  There  is  a  good  harbor 
at  the  N.  W.  end  of  the  island. 

ST.  BARTHOLOMEW. 

This  is  a  small  island,  not  more  than  24  miles  in  circumference) 
and  5  leagues  S.  E.  of  St.  Martin's.  It  was  first  peopled  in  1648* 
by  Poincy,  the  French  governor  of  St.  Christopher.  Admiral 
Thornhill  plundered  it  in  1689.  Jx  was  not  restored  to  France  till 
<Ri697.  For  a  long  period  after,  it  was  a  mere  nest  of  privateers. 
France  ceded  it  to  Sweden,  in  1785.  The  population  has  greatly- 
increased  since  that  time.  It  is  estimated  at  30,000.  The  only 
port  is  Z.e  Care7iage,  on  the  v/est  side,  near  which  stands  GustaviOf 
the  sole  town  in  the  island.  Le  Carenage  has  excellent  mooringsj 
but  admits  no  vessels  drawing  over  9  feet  water.  The  planters  are 
thicfly  French.  The  bay  of  Colombieu  is  deeper,  but  has  no  town* 
The  chief  exports  are  drugs,  cotton,  lignum  vitse,  and  iron  wood- 
Provisions  are  procured  from  the  United  States,  and  the  nominal 
commerce  with  that  country  has  been  very  great;  since  its  com" 
tnercial  restrictions. 

SABA. 

Saba  is  12  miles  in  circumference,  and  30  S.  W.  of  St.  Bartholo> 
mew.  The  Dutch  long  possessed  it,  but  the  English  took  it  m 
1781.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  Dutch.  It  has  no  port.  The 
access  to  it  is  by  a  road  cUt  out  of  the  rock,  by  which  only  one  maU 
tan  mount  at  a  time. 

BARBUDA. 

Barbuda  is  20  miles  E.  S.  E.  of  St.  Bartholomew,  and  is  20  miles 
long,  and  12  broad.  It  belongs  to  the  Codrington  family,  to  which 
it  produces  5000/.  a  year.  The  inhabitants,  about  1500  in  number, 
are  employed  chiefly  in  agriculture.  Sombrera^  a  little  island,  20 
leagues  N.  N.  W.  of  Anguilla,  is  a  dependency  of  Barbuda. 

ST.  EUSTATIU3. 

St.  Eustatius  is  4  leagues  S.  E.  of  Saba,  and  3  N.  W.  of  St.  Chris" 
lophcr.  It  is  a  huge  pyramidal  rock,  rising  out  of  the  waves,  29 
miles  in  circumference.  The  Dutch  settled  it  about  the  year  1600- 
It  contains  about  5000  whites,  chiefly  Duteh,  and  15,000  negroes. 
There  is  but  one  landing  place,  and  that  strongly  fortified- 
39 


3^6^  C^ARmBEAN  ISLANDS. 

ST.  CHRISTOPHER. 

This  island  is  20  leagues  W.  S.  W.  of  Barbuda,  is  42  miles  in 
circuit,  and  contains  43,726  acres,  or  almost  70  square  miles.  Its 
length  from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.  is  18  miles,  and  its  common  breadth 
about  4.  Columbus  was  so  pleased  with  its  appearance,  that  he 
called  it  after  his  own  name  St.  Christopher  ;  the  sailors  call  it  Sf. 
Kitt's.  Columbus  discovered  it  in  1493.  It  was  first  settled  by  the 
English  in  1623. 

Basseterre,  the  capital,  is  on  the  S.  "W.  coast.  It  contains  800 
houses,  and  is  defended  by  three  batteries,  Sandy  poi«t,  also  on 
the  W-  side,  is  defended  by  two  batteries. 

The  produce  of  St.  Christopher,  in  1787,  consisted  of  235,528 
cwt.  2  qrs,  12  lbs.  of  sugar,  334,609  galls,  of  rum,  8154  of  molasses, 
318  lbs.  of  indigo,  484,640  lbs.  of  cotton,  dying  wuous  in  value 
5989/.  \s.  6d.  and  other  articles  in  value  33,456/.  195.  4rf.  ;  making 
a  total  value  of  510,014/.  Os.  5d. 

The  interior  of  the  island  consists  of  many  rugged  precipices 
and  barren  mountains.  Near  the  shore,  the  country  is  level  Of 
the  43,726  acres,  17,000  are  devoted  to  sugar,  and  4000  to  pastur- 
age. Cotton,  indigo,  and  provisions,  occupy  but  little,  probably 
not  more  than  2000  or  30GO.  The  rest  of  the  island  is  unfit  for  cul- 
tivation. 

NEVIS. 

This  beautiful  little  spot  is  nothing  more  than  a  single  mountaiir, 
rising  like  a  cone  in  an  easy  ascent  from  the  sea  ;  the  circumfer- 
ence of  its  base  not  exceeding  24  miles.  It  is  only  2^  miles  S.  E. 
of  St.  Christopher.  The  island  is  divided  into  5  parishes.  Colum- 
bus called  it  A'ieves,  or  The  Snows,  probably  fi'om  its  resemblance 
to  a  mountain  in  Spain  of  that  name.  It  was  settled  by  English 
emigrants  from  St.  Christop>her,  in  1628.  The  population  consists 
of  about  1000  whites,  and  10,000  negroes.  All  white  men,  not  ex- 
empted by  age  or  decrepitude,  are  enrolled  in  the  militia,  among 
which  there  is  a  troop  of  50  horse. 

The  capital,  Charlesiown^is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  island.  Here 
is  the  principal  fortification. 

The  average  preduce  of  sugar  is  I  hhd.  of  16  cwt.  per  acre. 
There  are  about  8000  acres  of  cane  land,  of  which  half  are  cut  an- 
nually, and  4000  hhds.  is  the  annual  crop. 

ANTIGUA. 

Antigua  is  16  leagues  E.  of  Nevis,  and  18  E.  by  S.  of  St.  Chris- 
topher. It  is  50  miles  in  circumference,  and  contains  59,838  acres. 
or  93^  square  miles.  It  is  divided  into  6  parishes,  and  1 1  districts, 
and  contains  6  towns  and  villages.  Columbus  discovered  it  in  1493. 
It  was  settled  by  the  English  from  Barbadoes,  in  1674.  The 
governor  general  of  the  Leewai'd  Islands  usually  resides  here. 
The  population,  in  1774,  consisted  of  2590  whites  and  37,808 
slaves,  besides  free  negroes.     The  military  establishment  consists 


CARIBBEAN  ISLANDS.  SOT 

of  2  regiments  of  infantry,  2  of  foot  militia,  1  squadron  of  dragoons, 
and  one  battalion  of  cavalry. 

St.  John's,  the  capital,  is  built  on  an  ex  cellent  harbor  on  the  W. 
shore.  The  entrance  is  defended  by  fort  James.  It  is  the  largest 
and  most  commercial  town  in  the  whole  government.  The  pro- 
diice  of  the  island,  in  1787,  consisted  of  284,526  cwt,  1  qr.  18 
lbs.  of  sugar,  716,546  galls,  of  rum,  5910  of  molasses,  26  lbs.  of  in- 
digo, 160,510  of  cotton,  dying  woods  in  value  4142Z.  6s.  6d.  and 
other  articles  in  value  48,006/.  10*.  3d. :  making  a  total  value  of 
592,596/.  15a.  8d. 

MONTSERRAT. 

This  is  the  most  southern  island  under  the  governor  genera!, 
and  is  7  leagues  S.  E.  of  Neyisj  and  8  S.  W.  by  W.  of  Antigua. 
It  is  9  miles  each  way,  and  contains  about  30,000  acres,  or  neai'ly 
47  square  miles.  It  is  divided  into  4  districts.  Columbus  called 
it  Montserrat,  after  a  mountain  of  the  same  name  in  Spain.  He 
discovered  it  in  1493.  It  was  first  settled  by  English  emigrants 
from  St.  Christopher,  in  1632.  In  1648,  there  were  1000  white 
families  on  the  island,  constituting  a  militia  of  360  effective  meo. 
The  population,  in  1791,  was  1300  whites,  and  10,000  negroes. 
The  produce  of  Nevis  and  Montserrat  united,  in  1787,  was  expoi't- 
ed  in  122  vessels,  measuring  10,287  tons,  and  manned  by  904 
seamen  J  and  consisted  of  110,284  cwt.  0  qr.  21  lbs.  of  sugar, 
289,076  galls,  of  rum,  1313  of  molasses,  140  lbs.  of  indigo,  92,472 
of  cotton,  dying  woods  in  value,  352/.  7s.  6d.  and  other  articles  in 
value,  1363/.  3s.  Sd. :  making  a  total  value  of  214,141/.  16s.  8d. 

Almost  two  thirds  of  the  island  are  mountainous  or  barren.  The 
average  wop  for  4  years,  1784 — .1787,  was  2737  hhds.  of  sugar  of 
16  cwt.  1 107  puncheons  of  rum,  and  275  bales  of  cotton. 

GUADALOUPE. 

Guadaloupe  consists  really  of  two  islands,  divided  by  a  short  and 
naiTow  channel  called  the  Salt  river.  No  vessel  of  more  than  50 
tons  burthen  can  pass  through  the  channel,  though  in  various  places 
there  is  a  sufficient  depth  for  ships  of  500  tons.  The  channel  is  a 
clear,  smooth  stream  above  2  leagues  long. 

Columbus  gave  it  its  present  name,  from  the  resemblance  of  its 
mountains  to  those  of  Guadaloupe,  in  Spain.  He  discovered  it  in 
1493.  The  French  first  settled  the  island  in  1635.  The  English 
took  it  in  1759,  and  restored  in  1763  ;  retook  it  in  1794,  and  lost 
it  in  the  latter  part  of  the  same  year.  In  1 8 10  it  again  fell  into  theijr 
hands.    In  1813  it  was,  surrendered  to  Sweden. 

It  contained  in 

3,825  whites")  r  13,261  whites") 

1700^       325  free  bl.  1 10,875         \779\     1,382  free  bl.  I  99,970 


{ 


6,725  slaves  J  (^85,327  slaves  J 

{13,466  whites.") 
3,044  free  bl.  1 101,971 
85,461  slaves  J 


'tc  >    9,643  whites?  c^-tq'?  f  13,466  whites, 

^^i  41,140  slaves  S^^'^^^         1788 


SOS  CARIBBEAN  ISLANDS- 

The  white  inhabitants  are  almost  wholly  of  French  descent.  4. 
few  Caraibes  still  remain  on  the  island,  but  they  have  lost  all  th<^ 
characteristics  of  their  nation. 

Basse  Terre  is  the  name  of  a  seaport  on  the  S.  W.  coast)  regii« 
larly  built  and  defended  by  a  citadel. 

The  exports  from  Guadaloupe  to  France,  in  the  years  176?  and 
1775,  were  as  follows  I 

1767.  1775. 

quintals,  quintals, 

^usjar  164,021  188,386 

Coffee  34,205  63,029" 

Cotton  11,955  5,193 

Cacao  456  1,024 

Indigo  1,438 

Ginger  1)884 

Beside  Campeachy  wood,  hides,  confections,  liqueurs,  and  ratifia. 
The  value  of  the  imports  and  exports,  in  1767  and  1788,  was  as  fol- 
lows: 

'  Imports.  Exports. 

1767  livres  4,523,884  7,103,838 

1788  francs  5,362,000  15,053,000 

PESEADA. 

This  island  is  12  miles  N.  E.  from  point  Chateau.  It  is  12  miles 
long,  and  6  broad.  As  it  was  the  first  land  made  by  Columbus,  in" 
liis  second  voyage,  he  named  it  Deseada  or  the  desired  land.  It 
is  a  very  modern  colony.  In  1788  it  contained  213  whites,  33  free 
blacks,  and  619  slaves  :  total  865.    There  is  no  regular  town. 

MARIGALANTE. 

Marigalante  lies  5  leagues  S.  of  Grande  Terre,  and  8  E.  of  Bas° 
se  Terre.  It  is  of  a  circular  form,  14  leagues  in  circumference. 
Columbus  named  it  after  the  ship  in  which  he  sailed.  He  discov- 
ered it  in  1493.  The  French  settled  it  in  1647.  The  Dutch  took' 
it  twice.  The  English  also  in  1691,  1759,  and  lately  with  Guada- 
loupe. Its  annual  produce  is  stated  at  1,000,000  lbs.  of  sugar^ 
600,000  of  coffee,  and  100,000  of  cotton. 

DOMINICA. 

Dominica  is  10  leagues  S.  S.  E.  of  Old  Fort  Point  in  Guadaloupe. 
It  is  29  miles  long,  and  1 6  broad  ;  and  contains  186,436  acres,  or 
29 1|  square  miles.  Columbus  called  it  Dominica,  because  he  dis- 
covered it  on  Sunday,  Nov.  3d,  1493. 

The  population  in  1788,  consisted  of  1 236  whites,  445  free  blacks, 
14,967  slaves,  and  20  or  30  families  of  Caraibes  :  making  a  total 
of  about  16,800, 

Roseau,  the  capital,  is  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  island,  contaiR" 
ing  in  1788,  500  houses  besides  negro  cottages.        •  ^ 


CARIBBEAN  ISLANDS.  m 

The  white  inhabitants  of  the  island  are  more  than  half  French, 
&nd  are  catholics.  The  Caraibes  are  quiet  and  inoffensive. 
'  The  produce  of  the  island,  in  1787,  was  exported  in  162.  vessels, 
measuring  18,126  tons,  and  manned  by  1814  men  ;  and  consisted 
of  71,302  cwt.  1  qr.  and21  lbs.  of  sugar,  63,392  galls,  of  rum,  16,803 
'of  molasses,  1194  cwt.  3  qr.  2  lbs.  of  cacao,  18,149  cwt.  3  qr.  6  lbs. 
of  coffee,  11,250  lbs.  of  indigo,  970,816  ibs.  of  cotton,  161  cwt.  of 
ginger  and  other  articles  in  value  1 1,9 12/.  10s.  9d. :  making  a  total 
value  of  302,987/.  15s. 

WJA'DW^RD  JSLJJVnS. 

These  lie  between  lat.  9  30  and  1 4  50  N.  and  between  Ion.  59 
30  and  62  W.  Martinico  is  the  most  northern,  Barbadocs  the 
jhost  eastern,  and  Trinidad  the  farthest  S.  and  W. 

MARTINICO. 

Martinico  lies  10  leagues  S.  S.  E.  of  Point  Cachacrou,  in  Domi- 
nica, and  is  50  miles  long,  from  N.  W.  to  S.  E.  ;  generally  about 
16  broad;  and  140  in  circumference.  It  is  divided  into  28  par- 
ishes,  and  contains  about  as  many  towns  and  villages.  The  natives 
called  the  island  Mad,anina.  French  emigrants  from  St.  Christo» 
pher,  settled  it  in  1635,  and  in  a  little  while  extirpated  the  natives. 

The  population  was  in  the  year 

r^ 6,597  whites  ")  f  11,619  whites') 

1700^        507 free bl.&sav.  [.21,650    1776-j     2,892 free bl.  185,779 
(_  14,566  slaves  J  (^71,268  slaves  J 

{11,588  whites  *)  f  10,603  whites  1 

2,524  free  bl.  (.85,254  1788-j     4,851  free bl.  188,870 

71,142  slaves  J  (^73,416  slaves  J 

Port  Royal,  the  capital,  is  on  the  W.  coast,  on  a  large  bay, 
forming  one  of  the  best  harbors  in  the  West-Indies.  The  French 
ships  of  war  in  these  seas  always  wintered  here.  The  citadel  cost 
325,000/.  sterling. 

St.  Pierre,  also  on  the  W.  coast,  but  farther  N.  is  a  port  of  en- 
try, and  the  most  commercial  town  in  the  island.  It  contains  about 
12,000  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  on  a  side  hill  are  all  white, 
and  make  a  beautiful  appearance  in  the  bay.  The  bay  is  of  a  cir- 
cular shape,  and  easy  of  access,  but  unsafe  in  storms. 
'   The  commerce  of  the  island,  in  1769  and  17S8,  was  as  follows  z 

Imports  Exports. 

1769  sterling  £583,412  ,^536,631 

1788  1,195,115  1,201,875 

Of  the  imports,  in  1788,  763,959/.  were  from  France,  and  431,l56i, 
from  other  countries.  The  exports  of  1769  employed  202  vessels,' 
The  capital  articles  were  1 89,1 95  quintals  of  sugar,  68,5 1 3  of  cof- 
fee, 11,731  of  cacao,  6048  of  cotton,  2518  of  cassia,  783  hhds.  of" 
timi,  307  of  molasses,  besides  indigo,  sweetmeats,  chocolate,  snuff, 
rope  yarn,  liqueurs,  dying  wood,  and  hides.  A  part  of  the  imporia 
Iv^re  always  sent  to  the  Spanish  Maiu. 


310  CARIBBEAN  ISLAJ^DS. 

ST.  LUCIA. 

St.  Lucia  lies  9  leagues  S.  of  Martinico.  It  is  32  miles  long, 
from  N.  to  S.  and  12  broad.  There  are  9  parishes  ;  8  on  the  W, 
side,  and  but  I  on  the  E.  The  island  was  discovered  oja  St.  Lucia's 
day.     The  English  first  settled  here  about  1635. 

There  is  here  an  English  governor,  but  we  know  not  how  the 
government  is  organized. 

The  population  of  the  island  was  in  the  year 
i7fiqS    25524free persons >  ,^y  C  2,397  whites') 

^'°^  I  10,270  slaves  J      ''        1776-J     J,050freebl.  I  14,199 

j[  10,752   slaves  J 

Little  Carenage  bay  is  on  the  west  side,  and  is  the  beet  harbor 
in  all  the  Caribbean  islands.  The  exports,  in  1769,  a^otinted  to 
11 2,000/.  sterling. 

ST.  VINCENT. 

St.  Vincent  lies  8  leagues  S.  S.  W.  of  St.  Lucia  ;  and  is  24  miles 
long  from  N.  to  S.  and  10  broad  ;  containing  about  84,000  acres, 
or  ISli  square  miles.  It  was  discovered  on  St.  Vincent's  day, 
January  22d. 

The  English  part  of  the  island  includes  23,605  acres,  and  is  di- 
vided into  5  parishes.  The  blacks  claim  about  as  much.  The 
rest  is  incapable  of  cultivation.  The  military  force  consisted,  in 
1791,  of  a  regiment  of  infantry,  a  company  of  cavalry,  a  black 
corps,  and  2  regiments  of  foot  militia.  The  population,  in  1788, 
amounted  to  1450  whites,  and  11,853  negroes,  exclusive  of  the  in- 
dependent blacks. 

Kingston,  the  capital,  is  built  on  a  bay,  on  the  southwest  coast, 
to  which  it  gives  name.  There  are  3  other  villages.  The  pro- 
duce of  the  island,  in  1787,  was  exported  in  122  vessels,  measuring 
12,636  tons,  and  manned  by  969  men;  and  consisted  of  65,028 
cwt.  1  qr.  and  27  lbs.  of  sugar,  88,266  galls,  of  rum,  9656  of  molas- 
ses, 634  cwt.  1  qr.  and  5  lbs  of  coffee,  761,880  lbs.  of  cotton,  143 
cwt.  0  qr.  24  lbs  of  cacao,  and  other  articles  in  value  2,591/.  1  Is.  5 
a  total  value  of  186,450/.  145.  8rf. 

BARBADOES. 

Earbadoes  lies  28  leagues  E.  of  St.  Vincent,  and  26  E.  S.  E.  of 
St.  Lucia  ;  being  the  most  eastern  of  all  the  West-Indies.  It  is 
31  miles  long  from  N.  to  S.  and  14  broad,  containing  106,470  a- 
cres,  or  about  166|  square  miles.  It  is  divided  into  5  districts,  and 
1 1  parishes,  and  contains  4  towns.  It  received  its  name  from  the 
Portuguese,  who  discovered  it  on  their  voyages  to  Brasil-  An 
English  ship,  in  1605,  took  possession  of  it  in  the  king's  name. 
At  that  time  the  Caraibes  had  chiefly  or  wholly,  abandoned  it. 
The  first  colony  was  planted  in  1624,  and  Jamestown  founded. 
In  the  civil  wars  the  inhabitants  took  part  with  Charles  I.  They 
were  however  conquered,  in  1 65 1 ,  by  the  parliamentary  troops 
tmder  Ayscue  and  deprived  of  their  government. 


CARIBBEAN  ISLANDS.  Stf 

The  number  of  whites,  in  Barbadoes  in  1724,  was  18,295;  and 
of  negroes,  in  1753,69,870.  The  population,  in  1786,  was  16,167 
whites,  838  free  blacks,  and  62,1 15  slaves  ;  total  79,120.  The 
number  of  slaves,  in  1792,  was  64,330. 

There  is  a  college  at  Bridgetown,  founded  by  Col.  Codrington, 
the  only  one  in  the  British   West-Indies.     It  has  not  flourished. 

Bridgetown,  the  capital,  is  in  the  southwest  part  of  the  island, 
at  the  head  of  Carlisle  bay.  This  bay  is  a  league  and  a  half  lonij, 
and  a  leagvie  broad,  convenient  and  safe,  but  the  rocks  at  the  bot- 
tom are  apt  to  cut  the  cables.  The  number  of  houses  is  about 
1500,  and  of  the  inhabitants  12,000.  The  town  has  often  been- 
destroyed  by  fires  and  hurricanes. 

The  produce  of  the  island,  in  1787,  was  exported  in  243  vessels, 
measuring  26,917  tons,  and  manned  by  1942  men  ;  and  consisted 
of  137,766  cwt.  0  qr.  16  lbs.  of  sugar,  415,489  galls,  of  rum,  13,489 
of  molasses,  5,561  cwt.  2  qr.  18  lbs.  of  ginger,  2,705,975  lbs.  of 
cotton,  245  cwt.  0  qr.  5  lbs.  of  fustic,  and  other  articles  to  the  val- 
ue of  46,124/.  7s.  llf/.  ;  making  a  total  of  539,605/.  14s.  \0d.  The 
quantity  of  sugar  increased  in  7  years  (from  1786  to  1792)  front 
8,659  hhds.  82  tierces,  and  3,419  barrels,  to  17,073  hhds,  125  tierces 
and  2,698  barrels. 

GRENADA. 

Grenada  lies  20  leagues  S.  S.  W.  of  St.  Vincent,  and  36  froni 
cape  Thi-^e  points,  in  Venezuela.  It  is  24  miles  long  from  S.  S. 
W.  to  N.  N.  E.  and  12  broad;  containing  about  80,000  acres,  or 
109|^  square  miles.  It  is  divided  into  6  parishes,  and  Caviacou 
forms  a  seventh.  Columbus  named  it  after  Grenada  in  Spain. 
He  discovered  it  in  1498.  Du  Parquet,  governor  of  Martinico, 
settled  it  in  1 650. 

The  colonial  act  of  1784  provides  stipends  of  390/.  currency  ior 
5  clegymen,  1  for  St.  George,  3  for  the  remaining  parishes,  and 
1  for  Cariacou.  There  are  also  valuable  glebes  in  each  parish. 
There  are  still  a  few  Catholic  clergy  in  the  island. 

The  population  in  1785  was  1000  whites  and  23,925  negroes. 
The  number  of  free  blacks  in  1 787  was  1115. 

About  500  regular  troops  are  maintained  here,  together  with  3 
companies  of  king's  negroes,  who  served  in  the  American  war. 
In  1 777,  there  were  5  regiiuents  of  militia,  with  a  company  of  free 
blacks  attached  to  each* 

St.  George,  the  capital,  formerly  Fort  Royal,  lies  on  a  spacious 
bay,  in  the  southwest  part  of  the  island.  Its  harbor  is  one  of  the' 
best  in  the  West-Indies.  The  town  is  divided  by  a  ridge  running 
into  the  sea.  The  church  is  on  the  ridge  and  n^^^arcr  the  promon- 
tory is  an  old  fort  large  enough  for  a  regiment. 

The  produce  of  the  island  and  its  dependencies,  in  1 787,  was  ex- 
ported in  138  vessels,  mianned  by  1824  men,  and  measuring  25,764 
tons;  and  consisted  of  175,548  cwt.  0  qr.  and  9  lbs.  of  sugar,- 
670,390  galls,  rum,  4300  molasses,  8812  cwt.  2  qrs.  4  lbs.  of  cof- 
fee, 2716  cwt.  3  qvs.  18  lbs.  of  cacao,  2,062,437  lbs.  of  cotton,  2810 
of  indigo,  antl  other  aiticlcs  iu  valvKi  64.545/.  O.v,  SJ.  ;  makini:'-  c 
total  of  614,908/.  Pe,  3f/. 


SI2  CARIBBEAN  ISLAND^. 

The  coviiiliy  is  mountainous,  but  no  where  inaccessible.  I^ 
abounds  with  spriugs  and  rivulets. 

Cariacou  island  lies  5  leagues  N.  N.  E.  of  Grenada,  contains  6913 
acres,  has  Hillsborough  for  its  capital,  is  very  fertile,  and  produces 
1,000,000  lbs.  of  cotton,  besides  maize,  yams,  potatoes,  and  plan- 
tains. Isle  Rhonde  contains  500  acres,  devoted  to  pasturage  and 
Cotton.  These  and  a  number  of  islets  in  the  neighborhood  are  call- 
ed The  Grenadines. 

TOBAGO, 

Tobago  lies  30  leagues  S.  E.  by  E.  of  Grenada,  and  42  S.  S.  W- 
of  Baibadoes.  It  is  30  miles  long  from  E.  N.  E.  to  W.  S.  W.  and 
9  broad.  Columbus  discovered  it  in  1498,  and  called  it  Tobago.  A 
small  colony  of  Dutch  first  settled  it,  in  1632,  and  called  it  J^eiv- 
Walchtri-n. 

Its  population,  in  1776,  was  thought  equal  to  that  of  St.  Lucia. 
If  so,  it  amounted  to  2397  whites,  1050  free  blacks,  and  10,752 
slaves  ;  in  all  14,199. 

Scarborough  is  the  name  of  a  tov/n  on  the  southeast  coast. 

In  th.e  northwest  the  country  is  mountainous  ;  generally,  it  is 
pleasantly  uneven.  Its  soil  is  chiefly  a  rich  black  mould,  calcuiat* 
ed  for  ail  the  productions  of  the  climate.  Its  fruits  are  uncommon- 
ly excellent. 

TRINIDAD. 

Trinidad  lies  15  leagues  S.  S.  W.  of  Tobago,  35  S.  S.  E.  of  Gren^ 
ada,  and  4  from  point  Paria,  on  the  continent.  In  size  it  is  the  fifth 
of  the  West-Indies,  and  tlie  largest  of  the  Caribbean  islands  ;  be- 
ing 60  miles  in  length  from  N.  to  S.  and  having  an  average  breadth 
jf40.  It  was  taken  by  the  English  in  February,  1797,  and  ceded 
to  them  by  Spain  at  the  treaty  of  Amiens,  in  1802. 

An  English  governor  resides  here.  The  island  is  thinly  peopled. 
We  have  seen  no  statement  of  the  actual  population.  Some  of  tho 
whites  are  Spaniards  and  some  English.  It  is  said  that  a  consider- 
able number  of  the  natives  are  still  found  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
island,  but  wc  do  not  know  whether  they  are  Arrowauks  or  Ca- 
raibes. 

Povt  Es/iauoy  on  the  west  side  of  the  island,  is  the  principal  sea- 
port.    In  1806,  it  contained  about  3000  inhabitants. 

Tiu-ee  distinct  ridges  of  mountains  cross  the  island  from  west  to 
east ;  the  northern,  middle,  and  southern.  Marshes  of  considera- 
ble extent  are  found  in  various  places.  Of  land  susceptible  of  cul- 
tivation, there  aren-eckoned,  by  M'Callam,  in  1803, 

acres. 

suitable  for  sugar  420,160 

coffee   302,400 

cotton     50,560 

cacao     98,280 


870,400  or  1350  square  miles 


LESSER  ANTILLES.  .       313 

:  Three  navigable  rivers  fall  into  the  gulf  of  Paria,  the  Caroni, 
Gurracara,  and  Coura.  The  Caroni  is  navigable  20  miles,  but  has 
&  bar  at  its  mouth.  The  two  chief  rivers  of  the  eastern  coast,  are 
the  Ortoire,  and  the  Oropuche.  The  Orioirc  has,  for  20  miles, 
from  2  to  5  fathoms,  but  is  barred  at  the  mouth.  The  Oropuche 
is  navi.^able  about  10  miles.  A  canal  is  proposed  between  the  Ari- 
po,  a  branch  of  the  Caroni,  and  the  Guaro,  a  branch  of  the  OropU" 
che.     It  will  furnish  a  navigation  across  the  island. 

There  is  a  remarkable  lake,  or  plain,  in  Trinidad,  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Tar  lake.  It  is  on  the  W.  coast,  and  is  2  miles  broad. 
In  approaching  it,  there  is  a  strong  sulphureous  smell,  which  is 
jjrevalcnt  in  many  parts  of  the  ground  to  the  distance  of  8  or  10 
rhiles  from  it.  In  the  rainy  season  it  is  covered  with  water.  This 
evaporates  in  a  few  days  after  the  rains  have  ceased,  and  the  surface 
is  every  where  soon  cracked  by  the  he;it  of  the  sun  into  numberless 
divisions.  It  has  the  consistence  of  pit  coal.  It  is  very  friable,  and 
■when  liquid  is  of  a  jet  black  color.  It  is  of  a  very  considerable 
depth,  and  the  surface  is  broken  with  great  difficulty.  A  gentle 
heat  renders  it  ductile  ;  hence,  mixed  with  a  little  grease  or  com- 
ttion  pitch,  it  is  much  used  for  graving  the  bottoms  of  ships.  This 
substance  is  also  found  in  various  other  places  within  20  miles ; 
and  there  is  a  number  of  hot  springs  in  the  neighborhood. 


LESSER  ANTILLES. 

THESE  islands  lie  between  lat.  10  30  and  IS  25  N.  and  between 
Ion.  63  20  and  69  50  W. ;  and  stretch  from  S.  by  E.  to  N.  by  W. 
along  the  northern  coast  of  South-America,  in  a  direction  nearly 
parallel  with  the  Greater  Antilles.  Margarita,*  the  most  eastern, 
is  2  lu  farther  east  than  Porto  Pvico  ;  while  Cuba  is  15  10  farther 
^vest  than  Orubilla,  the  most  western.  The  following  is  a  list  of 
the  pi'incipal  islands,  with  the  smaller  ones  in  the  neighborhood  of 
each : 

^  .  5  Cubagua,  Coche,  Feayles,  Sola,  the  Testigos, 

Margarita.        ^  Blanca,  and  the  Seven  Brothers, 

Tortuga  or  Sal  Tortuga. 

Orchilla.  The  Roca  islands. 

Bonair;  Aves. 

Curagoa.  Little  Cura§oa. 

Aruba  or  Oruba.  Orubilla. 

MARGARITA. 

As  this  island,  with  its  dependencies,  now  constitutes  an  integral 
part  of  the  republic  of  Venezuela,  a  description  of  it  will  be  given 
in  our  account  of  that  country. 

*  Margarita  is  the  most  eastern,  except  the  Testigos,  and  vafious  other  rocks 
in  its  neighborhood, 
40 


3.14  LESSER  ANTILLES. 

The  other  islands  except  Curagoa  are  too  unimportant  to  neei 
&  description  here. 

CURACOA. 

Curacoa  is  8  leagues  W.  of  Bonair,  and  1 6  from  cape  Roman,  on 
the  main.  It  is'about  60  miles  in  length  from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.  and 
from  10  to  16  broad.  The  Spaniards  first  settled  it ;  the  Dutch 
took  it  from  them  in  1632.  It  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  English 
during  the  present  war.  The  inhabitants  are  almost  wholly  Dutch- 
They  have  long  been  distinguished  for  their  industry  and  enter- 
prize.  The  principal  town  is  Amsterdam,  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the 
island.  The  harbor  has  been  made  an  excellent  one  by  the  indus- 
try of  the  inhabitants.  It  is  defended  by  a  strong  fort.  The  towa 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  in  the  West-Indies,  and  is  said  to 
contain  about  30,000  inhabitants.  The  public  buildings  are  nume- 
rous and  handsome  ;  the  private  houses  are  large  and  convenient,, 
and  the  magazines  are  capacious  and  well  stored.  The  trade  of 
this  island  was,  in  time  of  peace,  chiefly  contraband  with  Caraccas, 
and  Western  Terra  Firma  ;  and  was  worth  to  the  Dutch  half  a  mil- 
lion sterling.  The  Dutch  furnished  the  Spanish  colonies  with  ne- 
groes from  Africa,  and  with  woollens,  linens,  laces,  silks,  ribbands, 
hard  ware,  naval  and  military  stores,  brandy,  spices,  and  India  cali- 
coes, and  received  in  return,  gold  and  silver  coined  or  in  bars,  ca- 
caS)  vanilla,  Jesuit's  bark,  and  cochineal.  In  time  of  war  this  island 
became  also  the  common  emporium  of  the  West-Indies. 

The  soil  of  the  island  is  naturally  barren,  but  has  been  rendered 
very  productive.  The  Dutch  converted  the  pastures,  on  which  vast 
numbers  of  cattle  were  fornu;rly  raised,  into  sugar  and  tobacco 
plantations.  Here  are  extensive  salt  works,  which  afford  a  consid- 
erable supply  to  the  English  Islands,  and  the  Spanish  main. 


SOUTH-AMERICA. 

Extent.  THE  southern  half  of  the  western  continent  reaches 
from  cape  Isidro,  in  lat.  54^  S.  to  cape  de  la  Vela,  in  lat.  12°  N. ; 
and  from  cape  St.  Roque,  in  Ion.  34  30,  to  cape  Blanco,  in  ion.  81* 
W.  Its  length  from  N.  to  S.  is  4570  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth 
is  32 30. 

boundaries.  On  the  N.  is  the  Caribbean  sea  and  the  Atlantic^ 
■on  the  E.  the  Atlantic  ;  on  the  S.  the  straits  of  Magellan  ;  on  the 
\V.  the  Pacific  ;  and  on  the  N.  W.  the  isthmus  of  Darien,  which 
connects  it  with  North-America. 

Divisions,  The  whole  of  this  extensive  country,  except  that  oor 
cupied  by  the  aborigines,  was  lately  divided  into  colonial  govern- 
ments, belonging  to  Spain,  Portugal,  Holland,  and  France.  The 
possessions  of  Holland  and  France  have  fallen  to  England.  Portu- 
gal is  removed  to  Brazil,  and  the  province  has  become,  and  proba- 
fe»ly  will  continue,  the  mother  country.  The  present  divisions  of  the 
eountry  are  as  follows  : 

1.  Viceroy alty  of  New-Granada. 

2.  Captaingeneralship  of  Venezuela. 

Q    T7.,~i:oKr«„:or,,  ;,,^i.,,i:^^  ^  J*  Dutch  Guiana  or  Surinam 

3.  Ene-lishliuianajiocludmg -<  -    y^        ,  r^   ■  r^ 

°  °  12.  rrench  Guiana  or  Cayenne. 

4.  Viceroyalty  of  Peru,  belonging  to  Spain. 

5.  Amazonia. 

6.  Kingdom  of  Brazil,  including  Portuguese  Guiana. 

7.  Viceroyalty  of  Buenos  Ayres  ?  ,    ,       .  ^     . 

8.  Captaingeneralship  of  ChiU    J  belonging  to  Spain. 

9.  Patagonia. 

The  line  of  demarcation  between  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese 
territories,  as  well  as  the  boundary  between  Portuguese  Guiana 
and  Cayenne,  are  given  at  large  in  the  Universal  Geography,  Vol. 
I.  p.  696,  697. 


NEW-GRANADA. 

Extent.  NEW-GRANADA  reaches  on  the  Pacific  from  Punta 
Gorda,  in  about  lat.  9°  N.  to  the  mouth  of  Rio  Tumbez,  in  lat.  3  25 
5.  On  the  Caribbean  it  extends  from  \he  mouth  of  Rio  Dorados, 
in  about  lO^"  N.  and  82  30  W.  to  the  mountains  of  Santa  Martha,  a 
little  W.  of  lake  Maracaibo,  in  Ion.  72  30  W.  The  territory  is 
about  1080  miles  long,  from  N.  to  ,S.  and  has  an  average  breadth  of 
about  280. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  lies  the  gulf  of  Darien  and  the  Carib- 
bean sea  ;  on  the  N.  E.  and  E.  Venezuela,  including  Spanish  Guia- 
na, and  Portuguese  Guiana ;  on  the  S.  Peru  ;  on  the  W.  the  Pa- 
cific ;  and  en  the  N.  W.  Guatemala. 


SOUTH-AMEKICA. 

Extent.  THE  southern  half  of  the  western  continent  readiec 
from  cape  Isidro,  in  lat.  54°  S.  to  cape  de  la  Vela,  in  lat.  12°  N. ; 
and  from  cape  St.  Roque,  in  Ion.  34  50,  to  cape  Blanco,  in  lou,  81* 
W.  Its  length  from  N.  to  S.  is  4570  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth 
is  3230. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  is  the  Caribbean  sea  and  the  Atlantic^ 
on  the  E.  the  Atlantic  ;  on  the  S.  the  straits  of  Magellan  ;  on  the 
W.  the  Pacific  ;  and  on  the  N.  W.  the  isthmus  of  Darien,  which 
connects  it  with  North-America. 

Divisions,  The  whole  of  this  extensive  country^  except  that  oor 
cupied  by  the  aborigines,  was  lately  divided  into  colonial  govern- 
ments, belonging  to  Spain,  Portugal,  Holland,  and  France.  The 
possessions  of  Holland  and  France  have  fallen  to  England.  Portu- 
gal is  removed  to  Brazil,  and  the  province  has  become,  and  proba- 
bly will  continue,  the  mother  country.  The  present  divisions  of  the 
eountry  are  as  follows  : 

1.  Viceroyalty  of  New-Granada. 

2.  Captaingeneralship  of  VenezU'Cla. 

o    v..  loun.,;^,,.  ;^,>i.,,i:r.    ^  ^-  Dutch  Guiana  or  Surinam 

3.  English  iiutana,  includmg -<  _    ,-,        ,  r-.   ■  n> 

®  °  12.  irench  Guiana  or  Cayenne. 

4.  Viceroyalty  of  Peru,  belonging  to  Spain. 

5.  Amazonia. 

6.  Kingdom  of  Brazil,  including  Portuguese  Guiana. 

7.  Viceroyalty  of  Buenos  Ayres  ?  ,    ,       .  „     . 

8.  Captaingeneralship  of  Chili    J  'belonging  to  Spam. 

9.  Patagonia. 

The  line  of  demarcation  between  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese 
territories,  as  well  as  the  boundary  between  Portuguese  Guiana 
and  Cayenne,  are  given  at  large  in  the  Universal  Geography,  Vol. 
I.  p.  696,  697. 


NEW-GRANADA. 

Extent.  NEW-GRANADA  reaches  on  the  Pacific  from  Punta 
Gorda,  in  about  lat.  9°  N.  to  the  mouth  of  Rio  Tumbez,  in  lat.  3  25 
S.  On  the  Caribbean  it  extends  from  tlie  mouth  of  Rio  Dorados, 
in  about  10°  N.  and  82  JO  W.  to  the  mountains  of  Santa  Martha,  a 
little  W.  of  lake  Maracaibo,  in  Ion.  72  30  W.  The  territory  is 
about  1080  miles  long,  from  N.  to  S.  and  has  an  average  breadth  of 
about  280. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  lies  the  gulf  of  Darien  and  the  Carib- 
bean sea  J  on  the  N.  E.  and  E,  Venezuela,  including  Spanish  Guia- 
na, and  Portuguese  Guiana  j  on  the  S.  Peru  ;  on  the  W.  the  Pa- 
cific 9  and  en  the  N.  W.  Guatemala. 


12. 

Novita 

13 

Rapasa 

14. 

Popayan 

III.  Under  the  jurisdiction  of 

the  audience  of  Quito. 

15. 

Barbacoa 

16. 

Pastes 

17. 

Atacames 

18. 

Quito 

19. 

Rii)bamba 

20. 

Guayaquil 

21. 

Macas 

22, 

Cuen^a 

23. 

Loja 

24. 

Juen  de  Bracamoros 

SIS  NEW-GRANADA. 

Divisions.  New-Granada  is  subdivided  into  24  provinces.  One 
of  these,  Veragua,  is  in  North-America ;  and  two  others,  Panama 
and  Darien,  are  on  the  isthmus.  These  three  compose  Terra  Fir-^ 
ma  proper.  The  following  are  the  provinces,  beginning  at  th^ 
N  W.  _ 

I.  Underthe  jurisdiction  of  the 

audience  of  Panama. 

1.  Veragua 

2.  Panama 

3.  Darien 

II.  Under  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  audience  of  Santa  Fe. 

4.  Choco 

5.  Zinu 

6.  Carthagena 

7.  Sunia  Martha 
JB.  Merida 
9.  San  Juan  de  los  Llanos 

10.  Santa  Fe 
1  l.'^ntioquia 

History.  New-Grenada  originally  constituted  a  part  of  Peru. 
Two  audiences  were  erected  in  1547,  one  at  Panama,  the  other  at 
Santa  Fe  de  Bogota  :  and  tli6  territories  under  the  jurisdiction  of 
both  were  constituted  a  captaingeneralship.'  Quito  was  made  the 
seat  of  an  audience  in  1 563,  but  the  territories  subject  to  it  still  be- 
longed to  Peru.  In  1718  New-Granada  was  erected  into  a  vice- 
loyalty  ;  Quito  and  Venezuela  were  annexed  to  it,  and  the  audi- 
ences of  Panama  and  Quito  Were  abolished.  Four  years  after  these 
two  audiences  were  restored,  the  viceroyalty  was  abolished,  and 
every  thing  placo;d  on  its  former  footing.  In  1739  the  territo- 
ries dependent  on  the  three  audiences  of  Panama,  Santa  Fe,  and 
Quito  were  again  erected  into  a  viceroyalty. 

A  congress,  assembled  at  Carthagena,  in  November,  1811,  de- 
clared the  country  independent.     It  proved  an  empty   declaration. 

Rtligion.  There  is  an  archbishop  at  Santa  Fe,  and  bishops  at 
Carthagena,  Panama,  Santa  Martha,  Popayan,  and  Quito.  IVlissions 
are  established  at  various  places  in  the  interior  ;  but  we  have  nd 
particular  account  of  these. 

Go-vermnent.  All  the  provinces  were  under  the  government  of 
the  viceroy,  who  resided  at  Santa  Fe,  and  had  similar  powers  with 
the  viceroy  of  Mexico. '  The  jurisdictions  of  the  three  audiences 
have  been  mentioned. 

Pojiulatioji.  The  population  of  New-Granada  has  been  estimat- 
ed by  some  at  600,000,  by  otliers  at  1,000,000.  Probably,  accord^ 
ing  to  Humboldt,  it  does  nut  fall  short  of  2,000,000. 

Manners  and  Cuf^toins.  Of  the  whites,  the  Chapetones^  or  Euro- 
peans are  not  numerous.  Most  of  them  formerly  returned  to  Spain 
after  acquiring  a  con<pctent  fortune.  The  families  of  the  Creoles 
compose  tlie  landed  interest,  'i'he  morals  of  both  sexes  are  de- 
plorably licentious.     Indolence  is  also  a  general  characteristic. 

The  Indians  in  the  towns  are  generally  mechanics.  Many  oi 
them  are  compelled  to  work  on  the  plantations. 


NEW-GRANADA.  3  IT 

The  AVg-roes  are  found  principally  in  the  norllicrn  part  of  the 
country.  The  diflerent  grades  ot  a  mixed  breed  are  much  more 
Tiumerous  than  the  genuine  negroes. 

Cities.  Santa  Fe  de  Bogota  stands  in  lat.  4  9  N.  Ion.  73  36 
W.  on  a  beautiful  and  spacious  plain,  about  three  fourths  of  a  niiio 
from  the  banks  of  the  Funza,  a  iributaiy  of  the  Magdalena,  and  35 
from  its  mouth.  It  lies  a  considerable  distance  east  of  the  west- 
ern Andes.  The  streets  are  broad  straight,  and  regular,  and  the 
houses  generally  handsome.  The  cathcdralis  magnificent  and 
richly  endowed.  There  are  besides  3  parish  churches,  8  monaste- 
ries, 4  nunneries,  and  1  hospitah  The  nunaber  of  inhabitants  is 
about  30,Q00.  There  are  numerous  hamlets  and  Indians  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Quito  stands  on  the  eastern  acclivity  of  Pichinca,  a  lofty  emi- 
nence of  the  western  Cordillera  of  the  Andes,  about  130  miles 
from  the  Pacific,  in  lat.  0  13  33  N.  and  in  Ion.  77  55  W.  "I'he  site 
of  the  town  is  very  uneven  and  irregular.  The  principal  square 
is  very  spacious,  and  has  an  elegant  fountain  in  the  centre.  The 
houses  are  all  of  one  story,  and  generally  have  balconies  towards 
the  street  ;  but  the  doors  and  windows  are  low  and  narrow.  Thfe 
inhabitants  are  about  65,000  in  number,  of  whom  a  sixth  are  whites> 
a  third  mestizos,  a  third  Indians,  and  the  rest  blacks  of  the  various 
grades. 

i  Carthagena  stand  in  lat.  10  25  48  N.  and  in  Ion.  75  21  14  W. 
on  a  large  bay  i2l  leagues  from  north  to  south,  defended  from  every 
\vind,  with  a  sufficient  depth  of  water,  and  good  anchorage.  The 
site  of  the  town  is  a  sandy  island,  artificially  connected,  at  the  west 
end,  with  the  main.  The  streets  are  straight,  broad,  uniform,  and 
well  paved.  The  houses  are  chiefly  of  stone,  of  one  story,  and 
have  balconies  and  lattices  of  wood.  The  churches  and  convents 
are  well  built  and  numerous.  It  contains  about  15,000  inhabitants. 
They  depend  wholly  on  the  clouds  for  fresh  water.  Many  of  them 
are  afflicted  with  the  leprosy. 

Panama  stands  on  the  S.  side  of  the  isthmus,  in  lat.  8  57  48  N. 
and  Ion.  Sn  2i  W.  It  has  a  wall  of  freestone,  and  was  formerly 
supplied  with  a  garrison.  The  population  is  about  10,000,  The 
harbor  is  formed  by  several  islands,  and  is  safe.  Ships  only  come 
within  3  leagues  of  the  city.  Formerly  it  was  a  place  of  great 
trade. 

Guayaquil,  stands  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  Guayaquil,  in 
lat.  2  1121  S.  about  6  leagues  from  its  mouth.  The  houses  are 
bf  wood,  and  are  large  and  beautiful.  The  population  is  about 
10,000  souls.  The  river  is  navigable  to  the  town  for  vessels  of 
any  size,  and  affords  the  best  harbor  on  the  coast. 

Popayan  stands  in  lat.  2  50  N.  and  Ion.  75  50  W.  on  the  east 
side  of  a  mountain  of  considerable  height,  called  /►/,  from  the  re- 
semblance it  bears  to  that  letter.  The  population  is  stated  by 
UUoa,  at  between  20,000  and  25,000.  The  Molino,  issuing  fron'i 
the  mountain  of  M,  runs  through  the  city. 

Porto  Bello  stands  on  a  fine  harbor,  on  the  Caribbean  sea,  in 
lat.  9  33  5  N.  Ion.  79  50  20  W.    It  was  formerly  a  place  of  con 
sHerablc  note,  but  has  greatly  declined. 


sit  NEW-GRANADA. 

Neiva  stands  on  the  Magdalena  and  contains  about  2000  souls^ 

Santa  Martha  lies  on  the  east  coast  of  a  large  bay  of  the  Car- 
ibbean, called  Boca  Grande,  about  130  miles  northeast  of  Cartha- 
gena.  It  has  a  fine  well  protected  harbor,  and  is  a  town  of  con- 
siderable size.  It  served  as  a  place  of  rendezvous  to  the  early  in- 
vaders. 

Commerce.  Formerly  the  galleons  from  Cadiz  brought  once  a 
year  immense  quantities  of  European  merchandize  to  Porto  Bello 
lor  the  supply  of  South-America,  and  received  in  return  the  pre- 
cious metals  and  the  other  commodities  of  those  countries.  Dur- 
ing the  long  period  in  which  this  system  lasted,  the  English  car- 
ried on  an  immense  contraband  trade  along  the  whole  coast  At 
present  the  English  engross  almost  the  whole  trade  of  this  country, 
and  a  direct  trade  is  now  carried  on  with  the  various  ports.  If 
this  slate  of  things  continues  for  a  considerable  period,  a  spring 
will  be  given  to  agriculture  and  commerce.  This  trade  is  most 
profitable  to  the  English,  as  they  receive  great  quantities  of  the 
precious  metals  in  return. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  These  vary,  in  this  extensive  country, 
with  the  varieties  of  elevation  and  of  latitude.  In  the  N.  the  season 
galled  winter  is  from  the  end  of  May  to  December.  During  tliis 
period  there  is  an  almost  constant  succession  of  thunder,  rain,  and 
tempests.     From  December  to  the  end  of  April  is  the  dry  season. 

Among  the  mountains  every  variety  of  climate  may  be  experi- 
enced. Their  tops  are  covered  with  snow.  In  descending,  one 
sTieets  successively  with  sp'dng,  summer,  and  autumn. 

Rivera.  The  great  river  Magdalena  rises  on  the  eastern  side  of 
Coconucu,  a  volcano  of  the  Andes.  It  thence  pursues  a  northerly 
course,  to  tlire  bay  of  Boca  Grande,  emptying  near  the  head  of  that 
bay,  about  40  miles  S.  W.  of  St.  Martha,  in  lat.  II  8  N.  It  is  nav- 
igable for  ships  of  a  considerable  size  to  Honda,  lat.  5  16.  Its  whole 
length  must  be  nearly  1000  miles. 

The  Cauca  rises  on  the  other  side  of  the  same  volcano,  and, 
it  is  said,  within  a  few  rods  of  the  source  of  the  Magdalena.  It 
winds  along  the  western  skirts  of  the  chain  of  Santa  Martha,  and 
unites  with  the  Magdalena  in  lat.  9  35.  We  know  not  how  far  it 
is  navigable.     At  the  confluence  the  streams  are  nearly  equal. 

Several  branches  of  the  Oronoco  are  found  in  this  viceroyaltjr. 

The  river  Guayaquil  is  the  largest  primitive  stream  in  the  south. 
It  rises  in  the  Andes,  and  flov/s  westward,  to  the  gulf  of  Guayaquil. 
In  winter  it  is  navigable  for  large  vessels  to  Caracol,  120  milesi, 
in  summer  to  Babahoyo,  105  miles.  Thus  far  the  tide  rises.  It 
is  a  league  broad  at  the  mouth,  and  still  broader  at  Guayaquil.  In 
winter  it  is  only  a  torrent.  The  Tumbez  is  the  southern  boundary 
of  the  viceroyalty. 

Mountains.  The  Andes  traverse  this  country  from  north  to 
south.  Its  loftiest  summits  arc  in  the  jurisdiction  of  the  audienc« 
of  Quito.  The  peak  of  the  crater  of  Pachinca,  near  Quito,  as 
iiieasured  by  Humboldt,  is  15,940  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ; 
that  of  the  porphyritic  mountain  of  Antisana  19,150;  and  that  of 
Colapaxi   18,890.     Tunguragua  he  found  to  be  16,500  feet  hig^, 


VENEZUELA.  S-I^ 

atnd  Chinaborazo  21,440.    These  admeasurements  are  believed  to 
fiave  been  accurate. 

Mineralogy.  There  arc  many  gold  mines  in  various  parts  of  the 
•ountry,  particularly  in  the  provinces  of  Quito,  Popayan,  Antioquia, 
and  Choco.  The  silver  mines  of  Marquetones  in  the  dititrict  of 
Pampelona  are  inferior  in  richness  only  to  those  ofPotosi.  Platina 
is  said  to  be  found  only  in  Choco.  Copper  and  lead  mines  are 
abundant.  The  emerald  mines  of  Muzo,  in  the  mountains  of  Ito- 
CO,  50  miles  N.  of  Santa  Fe,  are  the  most  celebrated  in  the  world. 


VENEZUELA. 

Extent.  VENEZUELA  reaches,  on  the  northern  coast  of 
South-America,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Essequebo  to  cape  de  la 
Vela,  in  Ion.  72  30  W.  This  includes  upwards  of  1000  miles  of 
sea  coast.  At  the  eastern  end,  according  to  the  limits  which  are 
assigned  to  it  by  Depons,  it  has  a  width  of  350  miles,  and  farther 
W.  of  650.  W  of  the  Oronocoit  may  be  considered  as  extending- 
S;  to  the  Apure,  a  branch  of  the  Oronoco. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  lies  the  Caribbean  sea ;  on  the  N.  E. 
the  Atlantic  ;  on  the  E.  the  river  Essequebo,  which  divides  it  from 
English  (late  Dutch)  Guiana  ;  on  the  S  the  Oronoco  ;  and  on  the 
S.  W.  and  W.  New-Granada.  The  immense  circular  peninsula 
between  the  Essequebo  and  Oronoco  is  the  country  called  Spanish 
Guiana.  It  is  chiefly  a  wilderness,  inhabited  by  savages,  and  has 
few  European  settlements,  except  ©n  the  Oronoco. 

Divisions.     According  to  Depons  it  is  divided  into- 

Margarita  Venezuela,  in  the  middle,  and 

Cumana,  in  the  east  Maracaibo,  in  the  west 

Guiana,  in  the  south 

History.  Columbus  discovered  the  country  and  sailed  along  the 
coast  from  the  Oronoco  to  Margarita  in  1493.  Two  missions  were 
attempted,  by  the  Catholic  priests,  in  1512  and  1517,  at  Cumana; 
but  the  missionaries  were  massacred,  and  the  scheme  abandoned  in 
1519.  The  first  attempt  at  conquest  was  made  by  Gonzalo  Ocarn- 
po,  in  1520.  From  the  little  island  of  Cubagua,  near  Margarita,  as 
a  station,  he  made  various  incuisions  upon  the  coast  of  Cumana  and 
reduced  a  few  of  the  chiefs  to  a  temporary  submission.  The  king^ 
of  Spain  immediately  placed  the  country  under  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  audience  of  St.  Domingo.  In  1718,  this  country  was  taken 
from  the  jurisdiction  of  the  audience  of  St.  Domingo,  and  placed 
under  that  of  Santa  Fe,  the  capital  of  New-Granada ;  but  it  was  re- 
stored to  St.  Domingo  in  1722.  In  1786  a  royal  audience  was  es- 
tablished at  Caraccas  ;  the  country  was  made  a  separate  province ; 
and  the  government  of  it  committed  to  a  captain  general. 

A  conspiracy  was  formed,  in  1797^  by  three  state  prisoners,  to 
overthrow  the  government.  An  untimely  disclosure  alone  defeat- 
ed it. 

In  1 806,  general  Miranda,  a  native  of  Caraccas,  placed  himselt 


r>20  VENEZUELA. 

at  the  head  of  an  eKpedition,  fitted  out  partly  at  St.  Doming0  aaa 
partly  at  New-York,  and  sailed  for  ihis  country.  His  object  was 
to  liberate  it  from  the  Spanish  yoke.  Finding  bis  force  wholly  in- 
adequate, lie  abandoned  his  men,  many  of  whom  were  citizens  of 
the  United  States,  to  the  mercy  of  the  provincial  government,  and 
left  the  enterprize  to  its  fate. 

In  1811  the  inhabitants  revolted  from  the  Spanisli  yoke  and  de- 
clared themselves  independent.     They  have  since  been  reduced. 

Aborigines.  All  the  Indians  of  this  country,  when  it  was  first  ex- 
plored, were  divided  into  independent  tribes,  containing-,  usually, 
from  1000  to  10,000  individiials.  ,The  Cai-acras  were  the  most  nu- 
merous nation.  They  occupied  the  site  of  the  city  of  Caraccas  ; 
and,  in  1556,  within  a  circuit  cf  40  or  50  rniles,  were  computed  to 
amount  to  150,000,  under  the  control  of  upwards  of  30  caciques. 
The  other  tribes  were  the  Quiriguiris,  the  Cumanag-otos,  the  Gua* 
raunca,  the  Caraib-es,  Caribs,  or  Caribbees,  the  Ororiocos,  the  Onie- 
eras,  the  Ofto?nai-j2ic6,  and  the  Goa/iiros.,  who  were  among  the  most 
ferocious  of  the  maritime  Indians.  Several  of  these  tribes  are  still 
unsubdued. 

The  concjuered  Indiana  are  treated  by  the  Spaniards  with  great 
lenity  and  kindness.  They  live  in  villages,  and  are  governed  by 
their  own  caciques. 

jiciigion.  The  tribunal  of  the  inquisition  at  Carthagena  had  the 
superintendency  of  Caraccas.  There  arc  1  archbishopric  and  2 
bishoprics  in  this  territory. 

Govern7nent.  Previous  to  the  late  revolution  of  Venezuela,  the 
government  was  entrusted  to  a  captain  general  and  a  royal  audience, 
and  to  this  form  it  is  probably  now  restored. 

Pohidat.ion  Depons,  from  the  best  data  in  his  possession,  esti- 
mated the  population  in  1804  as  follows  : 

Provinces.       Whites.       Slaves.     Frccdmen.     Indians.       Total, 
Venej 
including  \-  1C0,0C0        150,000        200,000  50,000        500,000 


nezu^'la,") 
icluding  I  1C0,0C( 
"^arinas    J 


Vc 

:Maracalbo  20,000  30,000  40,000  10,000  100,000 

Cumana  I6.O0O  24.000  32,000  8,000  80,000 

Guiana  6,800  10,200  13,600  3,400  54,000 

Margarita  2,800  4,200  5,600  1,400  14,000 


145,600        218,400        291,200  72,800        728,000 

Revenue.     Depons  gives  the  foHowing  staternent  of  the  receipt^ 
and  expendituriis  for  5  years,  from  1793  to  1797,  inclusive  : 
Receipts.  Expences. 

Total  for  5  years  86,747,766  S7,428,967 

Average    1,349,553  1,485,793      ^   . 

In  this  estimate  are  not  included  the  receipts  from  bulls,  which  an- 
nually pioduced  £26,000  ;  nor  the  duties  on  tobacco,  wluch  yielded 
8700,000.  The  specie  in  circulation,  in  1804,  was  estimated  at 
83,000,000  ;  about  one  quarter  in  clipped  raoney. 


Venezuela. 


i2l 


Jniiij.  The  following  was  the  state  of  the  army  in  1804  ;  except 
that  we  have  added  I  company  of  the  line  since  formed  in  the  prov- 
ince of  Varinas  : 

Infantry.  ]       Cavalry. 


Description.  Comp. 
,,,  „-  Wh.  Bl. 

Iroopsof^    24 

the  line  3 
Artillery  7      12| 

Militia  57     5  5 

Total      88      65; 


VVh. 
1,751 

700 
4,680 


Bl. 

1,250 
4,230 


Total.  Wh. 
1,751 

1,950 
8,9  10  350 


Bl.  Total 


175     525 


Total. 

1,751 

1,950 
9,435 


,^7,131      5,480      12,6111350      175     525  13,136 

This  force  was  thus  distributed  amontj  the  provinces : 
Caraccas  6558  Maracaibo  1218 

Cumana  2916  Margarita  1247 

Guiana  1120  Varinas  77 

Maimers  and  Custoi^ia.  The  'ivhites  mentioned  in  the  table  in- 
clude the  chafietones  and  the  Creoles.  The  freedmen  include  the 
matizoes.,  most  of  the  muiattoes^  and  a  few  blacks.  The  slaves 
comprise  most  of  the  blacks  and  a  few  ?nulat(oes. 

The  number  of  the  natives  of  Spain  in  Caraccas  has  always  been 
siiKill  ;  the  court  having  laid  many  restrictions  on  emigration. 
The  whites  are  therefore  composed  chiefly  of  Creoles. 

The  general  manners  and  intercourse  of  the  inhabitants  are  not 
correct.  A  thousand  topics  of  conversation,  which  a  well  bred 
stranger  would  stare  at,  are  familiarly  introduced  and  discussed 
before  large  circles  of  both  sexes.  This  grossness  is  owing  to  the 
excessive  corruption  of  morals  prevalent  in  this  country,  and  in  all 
the  Spanish  colonies. 

The  minds  of  the  Creoles  arrive  early  to  maturity,  but  their  vig- 
or is  soon  broken  by  indulgence.  They  are  universally  languid 
and  unenterprising,  ignorant  and  superstitious.  All  the  inhabitants 
are  excessively  litigious,  and  the  number  of  lawyers  is  very  great. 

The  Indians  of  this  country  have  narrow  foreheads,  eyes  of  mid- 
dling size  ;  black,  lank,  and  long  hair,  sharp  noses,  large  mouths, 
thick  lips,  broad  faces,  and  large  heads.  Their  color  is  copper. 
Their  limbs  are  large  and  muscular,  but  not  strong.  The  com- 
mon stature  is  about  5  feet ;  among  some  of  the  tribes,  from  5  to  6. 
They  are  generally  lazy,  taciturn,  thoughtless,  stupid,  and  false. 
The  wild  Indians  on  the  coast  are  more  ferocious  than  in  the  inte- 
rior. Some  of  them  are  cannibals.  They  are  fond  of  war  and  rank 
treachery  and  perfidy  among  military  virtues.  Their  victories  have 
always  been  gained  by  treachery,  never  by  valor.  The  Caraibes 
alone  attack  their  enemies  face  to  face. 

Language.  The  language  of  the  Creoles  is  a  corrupt  Spanish, 
with  many  Indian  words  intermixed.  Few  of  them  understand  its 
grammar.     Thf-y  usually  speak  it  in  a  soft,  languid  manner. 

Literature.  There  is  a  seminary  at  the  city  of  Caraccas,  consist- 
ing of  a  college  and  a  university  united.  The  university  was  found- 
ed by  the  king,  in  1723  ;  the  college,  more  than  60  years  beibre, 
by  Anthony  Gonzales  d'Acunna,  a  bishop  of  Caraccas,  distinguish- 
ed for  his  piety,  who  died  in  1682.  This  dovible  establisliment  has 
41 


322-  VENEZUELA, 

a  school  for  reading  and  writing,  and  three  Latin  schools.  It  is  un- 
der the  government  and  instruction  of  a  chancellor,  a  rector,  and 
12  professors  :  3  of  rhetoric  ;  2  of  philosophy,  one  of  whom  must 
be  a  layman  or  a  secular  priest,  the  other  a  dominican  ;  4  of  theol- 
ogy, two  for  the  scholastic,  one  for  the  rrioral,  ard  one  for  the  posi- 
tive or  explanatory,  who  must  he  a  dominicaii ;  1  of  the  civil  law  j 
1  of  the  canon  lav/;  and  1  of  phytic.  The  funds  of  the  institution, 
in  1804,  amounted  to  g47,748  producing,  annually,  g2387.  In  that 
year  the  students  were  divided  as  follows  : 

In  the  lower  classes,  comprehending  i^hetoric      202 
In  philosophy  140 

In  theology  36 

In  the  canon  and  civil  law  55 

In  physic  1 1 

At  the  school  for  singing  by  note  22 

466 
The  degree  of  bachelor  is  conferred  by  the  rector;  those  of  licen- 
tiate and  doctor  by  the  chancellor,  who  must  be  a  canon.  The  oath 
of  every  student  is  to  maintain  the  immaculate  conception  ;  ta 
teach  and  practise  neither  I'egicide  nor  tyrannicide  ;  and  to  defend 
the  doctrine  of  St.  Thomas. 

The  system  of  education  pursued  here  is  very  defective.  The 
boys  are  not  taught  their  own  language  nor  arithmetic,  and  they 
never  learn  either.  The  books  which  they  study  are  the  Latin 
grammar  of  Nebrija,  the  philosophy  of  Aristotle,  the  institutes  of 
Justinian,  the  Curia  Philippica,  and  the  theological  writings  of  Go- 
jiet  and  Larraga. 

Cities  and  Towns.  Cahaccas,  the  capital,  was  founded,  in  1567, 
by  Don  Diego  Losada.  It  is  built  in  a  valley,  which  extends  from 
E.  to  W.  4  leagues,  between  the  moimtains  of  that  vast  chain,  which- 
coasts  the  sea  from  Coro  to  Cumana.  This  valley  has  an  elevatioa 
of  406  toises,  or  2598  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Mountains  of 
equal  height  lie  on  the  N.  and  S.  at  a  small  distance  from  the  city. 
Its  site  is  a  square  with  a  side  of  2000  paces  ;  and  its  surface  every 
where  uneven  and  irregular,  just  as  nature  left  it.  The  houses  are 
well  built ;  some  are  of  brick  ;  but  the  greater  part  of  masonry,  in 
frame  work,  after  the  manner  of  the  Romans.  There  are  5  yarish 
churches,  and  3  private  ones,  3  monasteries,  1  house  of  pre  icners, 
1  hospital  of  capuchins,  2  nunneries,  I  house  of  Educandass  1  hos- 
pital for  men,  another  for  wcnieu,  and  a  thii  1  tor  lepers.  A  great 
part  of  this  city  v/as  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  the  beginning  of 
the  year  1812.  The  whole  population,  in  1802,  was  between  41,000 
and  42,000  ;  of  whom  a  fourth  were  whites,  a  third  slaves,  a  twen- 
tieth Indians,  and  the  rest  freedmen.  These  last  are  artisans.  The 
number  of  servants  is  very  great.  Beggars  throug  the  streets. 
Thefts  and  assassinations  are  frequent ;  the  last  are  committed 
chiefly  by  the  Europeans.  The  police  is  ill  administered.  The 
climate  of  Caraccas  is  delightful.  The  temperature  varies,  in  win- 
ter, from  52°  to  73°  ;  and,  in  summer,  from  69°  to  85°.  It  lies  in 
lat.  10  31  N.  and  in  Ion.  66  43  W. 


VENEZUELA.  323 

CuMANA,  a  quarter  of  a  league  south  from  the  gulf  of  CariacQ, 
OB  a  sandy  dry  soil,  was  built  in  1520,  and  is  the  oldest  city  in  the 
whole  of  Terra  Firma.  The  river  MansanarM  waters  it  on  the 
south.  There  is  1  church  and  2  monasteries.  It  contains  24,000 
inhabitants,  chiefly  Creoles,  who  are  of  a  superior  character  to  their 
countrymen.  They  are  industrious  and  enterprising.  A  fort  on 
the  hill  Goniains  230  regulars,  and  a  company  of  artillery.  The 
climate  is  warm,  but  healthy.     Lat.  10  37   37  N.  Ion.  64   10  W. 

Maracaibo  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake  of  Maracai- 
bo,  about  6  leagues  from  the  northern  extremity  of  that  strait.  The 
number  of  inhabitants  was  22,000,  in  1801,  when  the  town  received 
an  additio-i  of  2000  from  St.  Domingo.  About  5000  are  slaves, 
5000  freed  persons,  and  the  rest  whites.  The  in'.iabitants  are  ex- 
cellent soldiers  and  sailors,  and  are  better  informed  than  the  rest  of 
their  counirymen.  There  are  here  1  parish  church,  I  chapel,  4 
monasieries,  and  4  nunneries.  The  climate  is  very  hot,  but  not  un- 
liealt'-y  to  the  natives.  Lat.  10  SO  N.  Ion.  71  46  W.  140  leagues 
from  Cviri'.ccus. 

Barc  elona,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Neveri,  has  1  parish  church, 
a  hospital  of  Franciscans,  and  14>000  inhabitants. 

GuANARA  stands  on  the  Guanara,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Apura.  Population  12,300.  The  situation  of  the  town  is  delightful. 
The  riches  of  the  inhabitants  consist  chiefly  in  ctittle,  which  are  ex- 
ported by  Coro,  Porto  Cavello,  and  the  Oronoco.  Lat.  8  14  N.  Ion. 
.69  55  W.  92  leagues  S.  S.  W.  from  Caraccas,  and  24  S.  E.  from 
Truxillo. 

PoRTo  Cavello  has  the  best  harbor  in  Spanish  America.  It 
contains  I  church  and  2  hospitals.  The  population  is  7500.  The 
whites  are  chiefly  engaged  in  commerce,  and  the  town  is  the  em- 
porium of  a  wide  extent  of  country. 

La  Guira,  the  port  of  Caraccas,  is  more  frequented  than  any  on 
the  coast.  The  road  is  open  to  every  breeze,  and  the  depth  does 
not  exceed  8  fathoms,  at  a  quarter  of  a  league  from  the  beach.  The 
houses  are  meanly  built,  and  the  streets  narrow,  crooked,  and  bad- 
ly paved.  It  has  one  parish  church,  and  contains  6000  inhabitants  ; 
of  whom  3000  are  in  the  gunboats,  and  711  in  the  garrison.  The 
road  from  Caraccas  to  La  Guira  is  cut  straight  over  the  mountains. 
The  distance  is  5  short  leagues,  which  loaded  mules  perform  in  5 
hours,  and  under  the  saddle  in  3|.  The  ascent  from  La  Guira  to 
the  top  of  the  mountain  is  6095  feet,  and  the  descent  to  Caraccas 
1497  feet.     In  wet  weather  the  road  is  extremely  laborious. 

Manufactures  and  Commerce.  The  most  important  manufac- 
tures are  those  of  tobacco,  indigo,  and  sugar. 

The  commerce  of  the  country  was  never  of  any  consequence, 
till  1634,  when  the  Dutch  siezed  on  Cura^oa.  From  that  time,  for 
a  whole  century,  the  Dutch  carried  on  a  very  important  contraband 
trade  with  the  inhabitants  ;  and  of  65,000  quintals  of  cacao,  the  an- 
nual produce  of  the  province,  only  21,000  were  exported  in  the 
regular  channels.  The  exports,  in  1796,  from  Spain  to  La  Guii'a, 
the  only  port  at  that  time  thrown  open,  were  as  follows : 


S24  VENEZUELA. 

In  free  and  national  articles  g932,S8l-73 

In  articles  of  contribution  753,442-37^ 

In  foreign  articles  1,429,487-S74- 


S3, i  18,81 1-50 
The  duties  on  these  articles,  on  entering,  amounted  to  §281,328. 

The  exports  to  Vera  Cruz  are  also  considerable  ;  but  the  con- 
traband  trade  with  the  foreign  colonies  of  otlier  nations  v.'as  very 
great,  particularly  with  Jamaica,  Cuiai^oa,  Trinidad,  and  Surinam. 
The  amount  of  impoits  in  this  trade,  in  1^04,  was  estimated  at 
g937,oOO.  This  we  prcoume  was  exclusive  of  those  from  Jamai- 
ca ;  for,  in  1801,  no  less  than  400  vessels  were  employed  in  the 
contraband  trade  with  that  island.  Porto  Cavello  alone  employed 
100,  and  exported  in  that  year  to  Jamaica  articles  to  the  amount  of 
S  1,300,000.  The  capital  articles  of  export  from  the  country  are 
tobacco,  cacao,  indigo,  cotton,  mules,  hides,  and  coffee. 

At  present  the  ports  are  all  thrown  open  to  the  ships  of  all  na- 
tions. The  island  of  Jamaica,  however,  will  probably  engross  the 
chief  trade,  as  it  does  that  of  the  whole  coast  of  New-Gianada, 
JNIexico,  and  the  Spanish  islands. 

Climate.  We  know  of  no  place  that  has  a  more  delightful  tem-r 
perature,  throughout  the  year,  than  the  city  of  Caraccas.  It  is  thus 
stated  by  Depons 


In  winter. 

In  summer. 

Generally  at  6,  A.  M. 

58° 

72° 

at  2,  P.  M. 

73 

79 

at  10,  P.  M. 

68 

75 

the  maxintum 

76 

85 

the  minimmn 

32 

69 

Winter  and  summer  are  the  only  seasons.  Winter  commences 
in  April,  and  lasts  till  the  first  of  November.  It  is  merely  the  rainy 
season,  and  is  colder  only  in  consecjuence  of  the  rays  of  the  sun  be- 
ing hidden  by  clouds.  During  this  season  it  rains  one  day  with 
anotlier  for  the  space  of  3  hours,  and  oftener  in  the  evening  than  in 
the  morning.  Some  days,  however,  are  entirely  dry,  and  in  others 
it  rains  incessantly.  Durmg  winter  all  the  rivers  are  in  a  state  of 
inundation,  and  the  low  plains  become  temporary  lakes.  In  sum- 
mer rains  occur  but  occasionally. 

Face  cf  the  Country.  The  northern  part  of  this  country,  near 
the  sea,  is  mountainous.  The  land  between  the  Guarapiche  and  the 
Oronoco  is  a  mere  level.  North  of  the  Orowoco,  commences  a 
plain,  in  the  east  narrow,  but  gradually  widening  westward,  as  far 
as  the  mouth  of  the  Apura.  There  the  Oronoco  bends  to  the  south, 
and  the  plain  in  that  direction  becomes  at  once  of  unknown  width. 
Westward  it  reaches  4  or  5  degree*  of  longitude,  to  the  mountains 
of  New-Granada.  The  country  on  the  Oronoco,  in  Guiana,  is  also 
a  plain  ;  but  the  rest  of  tl\at  province  is  not,  as  yet,  sufhciently  ex- 
plored. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  of  this  country  is  described  as 
generally  rich.  The  vallies,  between  the  mountains  north  of  the 
Uronocoj  are  fitted  for  any  species  of  culture  ;  and  arc  the  seat  o^ 


VENEZUELA.  £35 

Itiost  of  the  valuable  plantations.  That  of  Aragoa,  in  1786,  contain- 
ed 186  plantations.  The  plains  of  the  Oionoco  furnish  immense 
pastures,  and  numberless  herds  of  cattle  arc  dispersed  over  theii- 
whole  extent.  The  land  near  and  on  the  coast  of  Venezuela  is  gen- 
erally good  ;  as  is  that  of  Cumana,  from  the  Venare  to  the  city  of 
Cumana.  But  the  whole  of  the  coast  eastward,  as  far  as  the  Gua- 
rapiche,  is  dry,  sandy,  and  ungrateful.  Much  of  the  province  ol 
Maracaibo  is  of  the  same  kind.  A  rich  tract,  however,  commences 
25  leagues  south  of  the  city,  and  all  thiit  lies  south  of  the  lake,  is 
among  the  best  land  in  the  country. 

The  soil  of  Guiana  is  described,  as  throughout,  very  fertile,  and 
of  a  most  active  vegetation.  Lower  Guiana,  which  has  been  most 
explored,  is  said  by  Depons  to  be  exceeded  in  richness  by  few 
lands  in  America. 

The  agriculture  of  this  country  has  always  languished.  The 
great  objects  of  agricultural  attention  are  cacao,  indigo,  cotton, 
sugar,  and  tobacco. 

The  raising  of  cattle,  in  Guiana  and  on  the  plains  of  the  Orono- 
po,  constitute  almjost  the  exclusive  object  of  the  inhabitants. 

Rivers.  The  Palmar  and  Sulia  are  the  chief  tributaries  of  lake 
Maracaibo. 

The  Tocyyo  rises  15  leagues  S.  of  Carora,  and  runs  N.  E.  from 
that  town  50  leagues.  It  is  navigable  to  Banagua,  40  leagues.  It 
flows  through  a  fertile  country  abounding  in  forests. 

The  Aroa  and  Yaracay  run  N.  E.  each  40  leagues,  and  empty, 
the  first  10,  the  latter  13,  E.  of  the  Tucuyo.  The  Yaracay  is  navi- 
gable to  within  2  leagues  of  St.  Philip. 

The  Tuy  rises  in  the  mountains  of  San  Pedro,  10  leagues  S.  W. 
of  Caraccas.  It  runs  E.  about  50  leagues,  and  is  navigable  to  St, 
Lucia. 

The  Unare,  or  Venare,  separates  the  provinces  of  Caraccas  and 
Cumana,  and  runs  N.  between  30  and  40  leagues.  It  is  navigable 
6  leagues,  to  Santa  Antonia. 

The  Neveri  runs  W.  or  N.  20  leagues,  and  empties  just  below 
Barcelona.     It  is  too  impetuous  to  bs  navigable  above  that  town. 

Tlie  Manzanares  is  only  distinguished  by  having  Cumana  on  its 
banks,  a  quarter  of  a  league  from  the  sea.  Its  mouth  is  10  leagues 
E.  of  the  Neveri,  and  27  of  the  Unare. 

The  Guarapiche  rises  on  the  east  side  of  Mount  Brigantin,  and 
runs  northeast  to  the  gulf  of  Paria.  It  is  about  45  leagues  iij 
length,  and  is  navigable  to  the  fork  of  Fantarna. 

The  Oronoco  has  already  been  described.  Its  upper  branches* 
on  the  left  side,  above  the  Meta,  are  not  in  this  country,  and  the 
Meta  runs  chiefly  in  New-Granada.  The  Apura,  the  next  branch 
on  the  same  side,  rises  in  the  mountains  south  of  lake  Maracailio, 
and  runs  southeast  and  east  about  520  miles,  falling  into  the  Oro- 
noco by  several  mouths,  which  embody  a  number  of  large  islands- 
About  20  leagues  from  the  Oronoco,  its  northern  arm  receives  the 
St.  Joan  frorn  the  north,  and  still  lower  down  the  Guarico,  both 
rivers  of  the  province  of  Venezuela.  The  Apura  is  navigable  up- 
"ivards  of  J  80  miles. 


'.26  VENEZUELA. 

The  Caura  Is  said  to  rise  in  the  mountains  of  Parima,  near  the 
sources  of  tiie  Oronoco.  Its  course  is  west  of  north,  and  it  falls 
into  the  Oronoco  about  40  leagues  above  St.  Thomas.  The  Cau- 
capana,  a  smaller  stream,  enapiits  from  the  same  side  about  20 
IeuL.ues  below.  The  Caroni,  far  the  largest  southern  tributary, 
heads  in  tlie  eastern  part  of  Guiana,  and  empties  about  20  leagues 
bciow  St.  Thomas.  According  to  the  map  of  Dejjons,  its  length 
exceeds  400  miles. 

The  Guani  is  the  largest  branch, of  the  Ebsequebo. 
Lakes.  Lake  Maracai'oo  is  in  the  western  part  of  this  country. 
Its  form  is  nearly  that  of  a  decanter,  lying  from  south  to  north, 
with  its  neck  communicating  with  the  gulf  of  Maracaibo.  Its 
length,  from  the  mouth  to  the  southern  extremity,  is  50  leagues  j 
its  greatest  breadth  30  ;  and  its  circumference  150.  It  is  easily 
navigated  by  vessels  of  the  greatest  burden.  Hurricanes  are  not 
frequent.  Its  Avaters  are  usually  fresli  and  fit  for  drinking.  A 
strong  north  wind  renders  tliem  brackish,  as  far  as  Maracaibo. 
Here  the  neck  of  the  lake  is  3  leagues  wide. 

The  Lake  of  Valencia,  the  Tacarigua  of  the  natives,  from  E.  N. 
E.  to  W.  S.  W.  is  13A  leagues  long  ;  and,  in  the  widest  part,  4 
broad.  It  lies  in  a  valley,  surrounded  with  mountains,  except  on 
the  west.  It  is  about  6  leagues  from  the  sea,  from  which  it  is  sep- 
arated by  inaccessible  mountains.  It  receives  20  rivers,  and  has 
no  visible  outlet.  Within  a  few  years  its  waters  have  seriously  de- 
creased. The  land  deserted  by  it  is  of  astonishing  fertility.  Its 
water  is  heavy,  and  of  a  nauseous  taste.  It  contain*  numerous 
islands,  and  is  not  easily  navigated. 

Ba]in.  The  large  bay,  through  which  the  lake  of  Maracaibo 
opens  into  the  main  sea,  puts  up  between  the  peninsulas  of  Coci- 
nas  and  Pa;  agoana.  In  some  of  the  maps  it  is  called  the  Lake  of 
Venezuela  ;  in  others  the  Lake  of  Maracaibo.  The  latter  is  ob- 
viously the  most  proper.  Its  greatest  width  is  upwards  of  120 
miles,  and  the  width  of  its  mouth,  between  capes  Chichibatoa  and 
Macoi'i,  40. 

The  bay  of  Covo  is  triangular,  and  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  pe- 
ninsula of  Paragoana. 

The  bu}' cf  Tacaragua  is  a  league  and  a  half  east  of  the  Tuy. 
It  is  7  leagues  long,  and  abounds  in  alligators  and  shell  fish.  A 
quicksand  at  the  mouth  renders  it  inaccessible  from  the  sea. 

The  gulf"  of  Cariaco  extends  10  leagues  from  east  to  west ;  and, 
in  the  widest  part,  is  4  leagues  broad.  In  the  middle  its  depth  is 
from  80  to  100  fathoms,  its  waters  are  as  placid  as  those  of  a 
lake,  because  they  are  sheltered  by  mountains  from  every  wind, 
exc«  pt  from  the  sea  bieeze,  which  blows  S.  W-  hy  W. 

The  guHofParia  called  by  the  Spaniards  Trinte,  has  Trinidad 
on  the  east,  and  the  coast  of  Cumana  on  the  northwest,  west,  and 
south.  On  the  north  it  opens  into  the  main  ocean,  between  point 
Pana  on  the  west,  and  point  Blanco  on  the  east.  Between  these 
capes  three  islands  intervene,  making  four  openings.  The  largest, 
between  cape  Paria  and  Chacachacares,  is  2  leagues  broad,  and  is 
called  liie  Dragon's  Mouth.     The  second,  between  that  island 


GUIANA.  32i 

and  Navios,  called  the  Vessel's  Mouth,  is  much  smaller.  The 
third,  between  Navios  and  Monas,  is  (he  Egg^'s  Alouth.  The  fourib 
between  Monas  and  cape  Blanc  is  called  Los  Monos  or  the  Mon- 
key's Mouth.  This  gulf  is  25  leagues  from  east  to  west,  ami  15- 
from  north  to  south.  Its  depth  varies  from  8  to  30  fathjnis.  The 
Guarapiche  and  several  mouths  of  the  Oronoco  fall  into  tliis  gulf. 
It  opens  on  the  southeast  between  capes  Foleto  and  Ycacos,  into 
the  channel  of  Trinidad.  It  is  extremely  difficult  to  enter  the  gulf, 
through  either  opening,  on  account  of  the  immense  force  of  the 
waters  of  the  Oronoco. 

JN'atural  Curiosity.  In  the  mountain  of  Tumeriquiri,  there  is  an 
immense  cavern,  called  the  cavern  of  Guacharo.,  famous  amonp:  the 
Indians.  A  river,  of  some  magnitude,  issues  from  its  mcmih,  and 
millions  of  nocturnal  birds  have  chosen  it  for  their  habiiaiion.  The 
Indians  suppose  that  it  is  the  passage,  through  which  the  soul  goes 
to  the  other  v/orld. 

ISLAND  OF  MARGARITA. 

This  island  lies  N.  of  the  peninsula  of  Araya,  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  the  channel  of  Margarita,  8  leagues  in  width.  It  lies 
between  lat.  10  50  and  11  10  N.  and  between  Ion.  53  50  and  64  50 
W-  The  island  consists  of  two  peninsulas  (the  eastern  of  which  i& 
the  largest)  connected  by  a  narrow  isthmus.  The  population  is 
stated,  by  Depons,  at  14,000,  viz.  5500  whites,  2000  Indians,  and 
6500  slaves  and  free  people  of  color.  Assumfition  is  the  capital; 
and  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  island. 


GUIANA, 

THIS  name  is  .ittached  to  the  very  large  extent  of  country,  be- 
tween the  mouths  of  the  Oronoco  and  Amazon  ;  an  extent  of  sea-' 
coast  of  1 100  miles.  The  Amazon  bounds  it  on  the  S  ;  the  Negro, 
on  the  S.  W.  ;  the  Casiquiari  and  the  Oronoco,  on  the  W.  ;  the  O- 
ronoco,  ou  the  N-  W.  ;  and  the  ocean,  on  the  N.  E.  and  E.  As 
the  Negro  and  Oronoco  unite  by  means  of  the  Casiquiari,  this- 
whole  tract  is  a  real  island.^  entirely  separated  by  water  from  the- 
rest  of  the  continent.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  W.  N.  W. 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Apura,  a  tributary  of  the  Oronoco,  it  is  about 
1260  miles  in  length  ;  and  from  the  Negro  to  tlie  ocean,  about  700 
in  its  mean  breadth. 

This  country  was  lately  divided  into  Spanish,  Dutch,  French,  and 
Portuguese  Guiana. 

S/ianish  Guiana  extends  on  the  coast,  from  the  Oronoco,  to  the 
Essequebo.  In  the  interior,  it  is  bounded,  on  the  N.  W.  W.  and 
S.  by  the  Oronoco  ;  and  on  the  E.  by  the  Essequebo.  It  has  al- 
ready been  described  under  the  article  Fenezuela. 

Dutch  Guiana  extended,  from  the  Essequebo  to  the  Maroni,  350 
iwiles  along  the  coast.     According  to  the  map  of  Depons,  it  reach- 


52S  ENGLISH  GUIANA. 

ed  into  the  mlerior,  on  the  Essequebo,  about  220  miles,  to  lat  4  15^ 
and,  on  the  Maroni,  about  the  same  distance,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Araoua,  in  lat.  3  15  N. 

French  Guiana  extended  along  the  coast  from  the  Maroni  to  the 
Arovvary,  or  Aracuari,  450  miles.  The  Maroni  was  its  western 
boundary,  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Araoua,  below  which  it  ex- 
tended westward  to  the  Essequebo  ;  and  by  the  treaty  with  Portu- 
gal, in  Sept.  1801,  France  appears  to  have  considered  it  as  reach- 
ing to  the  Blanco  or  Parima.  Its  southern  boundary  N.  was  the 
Arowary  to  ils  source,  in  lat.  1  30  ;  and  thence,  a  line  running  due 
W.  to  its  western  frontier.  This  last  was  agreed  on  between  France 
and  Portugal  in  1801.  Previous  to  that  time  this  province  extend- 
ed on  the  coast  only  to  the  Oyapoc  ;  which  empties  just  W.  of  cape 
Orange,  only  220  miles  from  the  Maroni. 

Dutch  and  French  Guiana,  having  lately  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
England,  now  constitute  English  Guiana. 

Portugue.ie  Guiana  extends  along  the  coast  from  the  Arowary  (o 
the  Amazon,  about  120  miles.  The  Amazon  is  its  southern  bound- 
ary ;  and  the  Negro  its  southwestern.  The  parallel  of  lat.  1  30 
N.  separates  it  from  French  Guiana,  as  far  as  the  Bianco  ;  and 
thence  westward,  from  Spanish  Guiana,  as  far  as  the  Negro. 


ENGLISH  GUIANA. 

Extent.  This  extensive  country,  comprehending  both  Dutch 
and  P'rench  Guiana,  reaches,  on  the  coast,  from  the  Essequebo  to 
the  Arrowary,  800  miles.  Its  length,  in  the  S.  from  the  ocean  west- 
ward to  the  Essequebo,  is  about  500  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth, 
in  the  W.  from  the  Portuguese  line  northward  to  the  ocean,  is  aboiit 
350.  In  the  E.  the  coast  tends  gi'adually  southward,  and  makes 
the  width  much  less. 

JBou7idarics.  On  the  N.  and  E.  is  the  Atlantic  ;  on  the  S.  Por- 
tuguese Guiana  ;  on  the  W.  the  Essequebo,  which  divides  the  ter- 
ritory from  Spanish  Guiana. 

Divisions.  We  have  already  mentioned,  that  the  western  and 
smallest  part  of  this  country  lately  belonged  to  the  Dutch  ;  and  the 
eastern  to  the  French.  The  Dutch  territory  was  divided  into  3 
districts  :  Surinam,  on  the  E.  extending  from  the  Meroni  to  the 
Corantyn,  IbO  miles  ;  Berbice,  in  the  middle,  between  the  Coran- 
tyn  and  Abary  creek,  70  miles  ;  and  Demerara,  on  the  W.  between 
Abary  creek  and  the  Essequebo,  100  miles.  Demarara  province 
was  subdivided  into  two  districts,  Essequebo  on  the  W.  and  Dema- 
rara on  the  E.  We  know  not  wliethcr  French  Guiana  had  been 
subdivided. 

■A'amcs.  The  name  Guiana  has  long  been  g-iven  to  the  whole 
country  between  the  Oronoco  and  Amazon  ;  but  we  know  ncithe!* 
its  origin  nor  tlie  time  when  it  was  first  applied.  The  Dutch  colo- 
ny has  most  generally  been  called  Surinam,  a  name  derived  from 
the  river,  on  which  Paramaribo,  the  largest  town,  is  situated.     The 


teNGLISH  6UIANA.  m 

Trench  colony  is  generally  called  Caijenne,  the  name  of  a  city  iii 
Normanciy,  first  given  to  the  capital,  and  thence  transferred  to  the 
colony. 

Hitilory.  Vincent  Pinzon  discovered  Guiana  in  1500.  He  trav- 
ersed the  whole  coast  from  the  Amazon  to  the  Oronoco.  In  1605 
Robeit  Hdi'cote,  an  Entjlishman,  planted  a  colony  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Oyapoc  ;  and,  on  his  relurn,  obtained  a  patent  for  the  whole  of 
Guiana.  The  scheme,  however,  miscarried.  It  has  since  chania^ed 
masters  many  times.  Surinam  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Encjlish 
near  the  close  of  the  last  century,  and  was  restored  in  1802.  It 
It  was  taken  again  ijy  the  English,  on  the  4th  of  May,  1804.  Cay- 
enne was  taken  in  1809. 

Aborigines.  The  Indians  very  far  in  the  interior  of  Guiana  are 
not  known  Those  near  and  on  the  coast  constitute  four  distinct 
nations.  The  Caraibes  are  the  most  numerous,  brave,  warlike,  and 
industrious.  They  reside  chiefly  on  the  coast  in  Spanish  Guiana, 
between  the  Oronoco  and  Essequcbo,  though  considerable  num- 
bers are  found  on  tiie  east  side  of  the  latter.  They  are  always  at 
variance  with  the  Spaniards,  and  frequently  commit  hostilities  upon 
their  settlements  on  the  Oronoco.  They  still  retain  a  tradition  of 
an  English  chief,  who  many  years  since  landed  among  them,  and 
encouraged  them  to  persevere  in  their  enmity  to  the  Spaniards. 
It  is  said  that  they  preserve  an  English  Jack.,  which  he  left  them 
that  tiiey  might  distinguish  liis  oouncrymen.  This  was  undoubt- 
edly Sir  Walter  Raleigh  ;  who,  in  1.595,  made  a  descent  on  the 
coast  of  Guiana,  in  searcu  of  the  fabulous  golden  city  of  Manoa  del 
Dorado^  and  conquered  fort  Joseph  on  the  Oronoco. 

The  Worrow-i  ini.abit  only  the  low,  wet,  marshy  places,  adjacent 
to  the  sea  and  live  c-defly  on  crabs  and  fish. 

The  Accutvanos  live  near  the  sources  of  the  Essequebo,  Dema- 
rara,  and  Beibice  ;  resemble  the  Worrows  in  size,  but  are  lighter, 
and  have  less  disagreeble  features.  They  bring  to  the  colonists 
slaves,  the  balsams  Cajioiba  and  Arracoccrra.,  the  roots  of  hiarra, 
for  fishing,  the  oil  of  carraba.,  various  kinds  of  curious  woods,  mon- 
keys, parrots,  and  parroquets  ;  and  receive  the  same  things  in  re- 
turn as  the  Caraibes. 

The  Arrowaiiks  live  beyond  the  Worrows,  20  or  30  leagues 
from  the  sea.  They  are  of  a  middle  size  and  stature,  straight  and 
well  proportioned.  Their  skin  is  whiter  than  that  of  the  other 
tribes  ;   tneir  features  regular  and  agrv^eablc. 

Cio-vcrnmcnt.  The  Dutch  possessions  formed  three  distinct 
provinces.  Each  had  its  governor  appointed  by  the  motlier  coun- 
try, and  its  council  or  court  of  police.  The  governor,  as  execu= 
tive,  was  assisted  by  the  council,  consisting  of  a  fisca".,  appointed 
by  the  mother  country,  and  other  pers-oii.s,  apj^ointcd  by  the  elector- 
al college,  which  consisted  ol  7  members  ciiosen  for  life  by  the 
voters.  Every  white  male,  possessing  25  slaves,  had  a  voice  in 
their  election. 

PofiuLalio7i.     The  district  of  Demarara  is  said  to  contain   3000 
whites  and  40,000  slaves.     Tlie  province  of  Surinam  6000  whites, 
4-2 


S30  ENGLISH  GUIANA. 

and  75,000  slaves.     Almost  the  whole,  both  of  French  and  Dutcfe 
Guiana,  is  possessed  by  the  Aborigines. 

Manners  and  Cuf:to7ns.  The  English  and  Dutch  constitute  th6 
•mass  of  the  white  population  of  the  colony  of  Surinam.  Ger- 
mans, PiH'.ssians,  Russians,  Swedes,  Danes,  Spaniards,  French,  and- 
Americans  make  up  the  residue.  The  morals  of  all  have  been 
awfully  relaxed  by  the  climate. 

Cities ozd  Tow7is.  Paramakibo  is  the  lar;>fst  town  in  all  Gui- 
ana ;  and  stands  in  a  pleasant  gravelly  situation,  on  the  west  bank- 
of  the  Surinam.  1 5  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  r-treets  are  straight, 
and  arc  planted  '.vith  trees,  such  as  oranges,  limes,  lemons,  sha- 
docs,  and  tamarinds.  The  houses  are  chiefly  of  wood.  The  town 
contains  2  churches,  and  2  synagogues.  Von  Sack  estimates  the 
population  at  20,000 ;  viz.  2000  Europeans,  3000  Jews,  4000  free 
people  of  color,  and  i  1,000  slaves.  The  town  is  defended  by  a 
fcrt,  called  J^'evj'Afnsterdamy  near  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

Cayenne  lies  in  lat.  4  55  N-  Ion.  52  15  W.  on  the  north  poinfc. 
of  the  island  of  Cayenne  ;  which  lies  at  the  mouth  of  Cayenne 
river,  and,  on  each  side,  is  separated  only  by  an  arm  of  that  river 
from  the  main.  The  town  is  seated  on  the  western  arm,  which  is 
here  a  league  bror.d.  The  fort  which  commands  it  is  strong  e- 
nough  for  any  vessels,  which  can  come  within  gun  shot.  The 
town  is  divided  into  the  Old  and  New.  The  New  is  the  largest 
and  best  built.  The  streets  in  it  are  straight  and  broad.  The 
houses  are  chiefly  of  ^vood,  some  of  them  elegant.  The  palace  of; 
ihe  government,  and  the  ancient  mansion  of  the  Jesuits,  aie  the 
only  edifices  worthy  of  notice.  They  both  front  the  place  of  pa- 
rade. This  is  bordered  Avilh  tv/o  rows  of  orange  trees  of  the  larg- 
est size,  which  exhale  an  exquisite  fragrance.  The  number  of. 
whites  is  about  1200,  exclusive  of  the  garrison  ;  that  of  free  blacks, 
and  slaves  in  proportion. 

Stahrook  the  chief  town  of  Demarara,  stands  on  the  east  bank, 
of  Demarara  river,  near  its  mouth  ;  and  is  built  on  the  fiat  strand, 
amid  various  canals.  The  houses  are  of  wood,  two  stories  high, 
and  stand  on  a  low  brick  foundation.  The  rooms  project  in  all 
directions  to  catcli  the  luxury  of  fresh  air,  so  that  the  ground  plot 
is  usually  in  the  shape  of  a  ci'oss.  All  the  public  buildings  are  of 
wood.  The  population  is  stated  by  Bolingbroke.  at  1500  whites, 
2000  free  people  of  color,  and  5000  slaves.  There  is  but  one 
chinch,  in  which  an  English  and  Dutch  clergyman  officiate  alter- 
nately. Fort  William  Frederic,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  defends 
the  town. 

About  CO   miles  above  Paramaribo,  on  the   Surinam,  there  is  a 
considerable  colony  of  Jews,  descended  from    Portuguese    Jews,.i 
who  were  irivited  to  settle  h.ere  by  the  Dutch  government.     Their 
principal  town  is  very  populous,  and  is  called  the  Jeiv's  Savannah. 

Amsterdam,  a  town  lately  founded,  is  the  capital  of  Berbice, 
and  stands  on  the  river  of  that  name. 

Oyapoc  is  a  small  town  on  the  west  bank  of  Oyapoc  river,  de- 
fended by  fort  Louis. 

Kourou  is  a  settlement  on  the  coast,  10  leagues  northwest  of 


ENGLISH  GUIANA.  S^^i 

Cayenne,  which  was  undertaken  by  the  comniand  of  the  duke  de 
Choiseul,  in  1763.  He  sent  a  colony  of  about  12,000  persons  un- 
provided with  necessaries,  and  in  tlie  most  rainy  season  of  the  year. 
The  great  body  of  ihem  perished  in  a  sliort  period. 

Sinamari  is  a  small  fort  5  ieaguts  N.  W.  of  Kourou. 

Climate.  The  cliniate  is  unhealthy  ;  thous^li,  with  proper  care, 
less  so  than  has  been  supposed,  and  really  less  so  than  formerly. 
The  year  is  divided  into  two  wet  and  two  dry  seasons.  December 
^nd  January  constiiaie  the  short  rainy  season.  February  antl  March 
the  short  diy  one.  The  long  rain  occupies  the  four  foiiowing 
months  :  the  heaviest  rains  arc  in  June.  The  four  remaining 
months  constitute  the  long  dry  season-  Changes  in  the  tempera- 
ture are  gradual.  The  greatest  heat  experienced  in  two  years, 
^rroni  May,  1805,  to  June,  1897,  was  91°;  ihe  least  75^  The  sea 
breeze  furnishes  a  constant  effusion  of  delightful  air,  from  10  in  the 
nvorning,  to  5  in  the  evening. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  surface  is  almost  every  where  flat,  to 
2l  great  distance  in  the  interior.  A  narrow  strip  along  the  coast  in 
the  Dutch  colony  is  generally  cleared,  and  plantations  are  found  on 
the  bujiks  of  all  the  rivers.  l"be  rest  of  t!ic  country  is  still  forested. 
Much  of  the  coast  of  Cayenne  is  marshy,  and  subject  to  inunda- 
tions from  the  rivers.  Few  settlements  are  made  in  the  interior. 
Near  the  sources  of  the  large  rivers  the  country  in  both  colonies  is 
mountainous. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  All  travellers  s-greein  the  surprising  fer- 
>lility  of  tJie  soil,  both  of  Surinam  and  Cayenne,  It  is  generally  a 
rich,  fat,  clayey  earth.  Sugar  and  coffee  are  the  capital  articles  of 
agriculture,  and  after  them  cotton  and  cacao  Indi;j;o,  maize,  cas- 
sia, and  vanilla  are  also  cultivated  ;  and  Cayenne  pepper  forms  a 
considerable  article  of  exponation  from  the  French  colony.  Ac- 
cording to  Sledman  there  were,  in  1774,  bfitween  600  and  800  plan- 
tations of  augaj',  coffee,  cacao,  and  cotton  in  the  province  of  Suri- 
nam, which  yielded  an  annual  produce  of  the  value  of  more  than  a 
niillion  sterlin?*. 

Rivers.  The  Esscquebo  rises  in  the  mountains  of  Parima,  a  lit- 
tle S.  of  the  Portuguese  line,  and  pursues  a  course  W.  of  N.  about 
500  miles  lo  the  ocean  ;  emptying  by  a  mouth  3  leagues  wide.  It 
is  deep  and  navigable.  About  60  iuiles  from  the  sea  it  receives  the 
Guyani,  a  large  river  from  Spanish  Guiana.  Fort  Esscquebo  stands 
at  th'.-.  confiuence.  The  cataracts  in  this  river  arc  about  200  miles 
from  its  mouth. 

The  Maioni  is  supposed  to  rise  in  the  same  mountains.  The  old 
Dutch  line  ascended  it  to  lat.  3  15  N.  above  v/liich  we  believe  the 
river  has  not  been  explored,  h  is  a  large  navigable  stream,  but  less 
than  the  Esscquebo,  emptying  in  lat.  6°  N. 

The  Surinam,  or  ZeahuKh'ia,  rises  in  a  lower  chain  of  the  same 
^mounrains,  and  runs  abont  400  milet.  It  is  navigable  for  ships  of 
any  size  to  Parimaribo,  v.  here  it  is  a  mile  wide,  and  for  sloops,  80 
smiles  further,  to  tise  falls. 

The  Demarara  runs  nearlypa  vdlel  with  the  Esscquebo,  about  200 


\^%  PERU. 

;Y)iles,  and  empties  a  little  E.  of  it,  by  a  mouth  2  miles  wide.  Over 
a  bar  at  the  mouth,  in  the  highest  tides  there  are  4  fathoms  water, 

The  Berbice  pursues  a  northeasterly  course,  as  is  said,  of  more 
than  500  miles,  of  which  it  is  navigable  200.  A  bar  at  its  mouth 
has  16  feet  water,  at  high  tides.  The  Conya,  a  narrow,  but  deep 
stream,  falls  into  it  a  nnile  from  its  mouth. 

The  Corentyn  and  the  Suramaca  are  large  rivers  between  the 
Berbice  and  the  Surinam. 

The  Comewine  runs  N.  about  160  miles,  and  empties  halfway 
between  Surina.ai  and  Maroni.  A  few  miles  from  its  mouth  it 
receives  the  Cottica  from  the  E. 

Cayenne  river  is  a  large  stream,  which  runs  in  a  N.  E.  direction, 
and  empties  by  a  mouth  a  league  broad. 

The  Oyapoc  rises  in  the  mountains  of  Parima,  and  is  a  larger 
river  than  the  preceding.     It  empties  just  W.  of  cape  Orange. 

The  Arowary,  or  Aracuari,  is  the  southern  boundary  on  the 
coast. 

Mountains.  The  principal  chain  of  the  mountains  of  Parima  in 
the  eastern  part  of  Spanish  Guiana  passes  N.  and  E.  of  lake  Pa- 
rima, between  it  and  the  Essequebo.  A  spur  from  the  principal 
chain  crosses  the  Essequebo  at  the  cataracts,  and,  tending  E.  N.  E^ 
is  broken  by  the  Surinam  not  more  than  100  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Eastward  of  that  river  it  approaches  within  20  miles  of  the  se?,j 
terminating  not  far  frorn  the  Maroni. 


VICEROY ALTY  OF  PERU. 

Extent.  PERU  extends,  on  the  coast,  from  the  Tumbez,  in  iat. 
o  25  S.  to  port  dc  Loa,  in  Iat.  21  30  S.  In  the  iuteiioi  its  treaty 
limif  is  the  celebrated  line  of  demarcation,  although  the  Spaniards 
have  no  settlements,  except  missionA-,  beyond  the  eastern  cordillcra 
of  the  Andes.  Us  lepgth,  from  N-  to  S.  is  1260  miles.  The  east- 
ern Cordillera  is  from  240  to  300  miles  from  the  western  coast.  In 
the  interior  the  Amazon  may  be  considered  as  its  nortbt  rn  limit  ; 
while,  in  the  S.  the  di^tjictof  Lampa,  the  most  northern  in  the  vice" 
royalty  of  Buenos  Ayres,  lies  N.  of  lake  Titicaca,  and  commences 
only  30  geographical  leagues  S.  of  Cusco. 

Boundaries.  On  the  M.  lies  the  viceroyalty  of  New-Granada  ; 
on  the  E.  Brazil ;  on  the  S.  E.  and  S.  tiie  viceroyalty  of  Buenos 
Ayres.  which  reaches  westward  to  the  Pacific  ;  and  on  the  W.  the 
Pacific. 

Divintovs.  Peru  was  formerly  divided  into  5  dioceses,  or  cir-. 
cults,  which  vvere  subdivided  into  numerous  jurisdictions.  Since, 
the  whole  country  has  been  divided  into  the  loUowing  8  intend-* 
'jncies. 

Truxillo  Guamanga 

Tarma  Guantajaya 

Lima  Cusco 

^,uanca  Velica  Areqviipa 


PERU.  S33 

Iliatortj.  Little  is  known  of  the  history  of  Peru  before  tlie  dynas- 
ty oilh'^-  Incas.  In  this  the  naiive  historians  enumerated  l^  reigns, 
previous  lo  the  foi, quest  of  Pizarro. 

Pjzano,  in  1532,  louiiclcd  a  eoionyat  St.  Michael,  near  the  nicuth 
of  Lhv  Paira  At  Caxamaica  l»e  ir-  acheiously  seized  the  person  of 
Aiahua. ;,>.»,  whom  he  suffered  to  ransom  iiimscH,  by  -an  imn)enso 
qunntiiy  ofsjoki,  and  tiieu  [>ui  iiv.n  U)  cleath,  m  1533.  He  tookCus- 
co  the  same  year.  Peru  was  created  a  viceioyaity,  and  a  royal  au- 
dience was  established  at  Lr.v.a,  in  March,  1543.  A\  tirsi  the  vice- 
roy had  ihc  superiiu.'  ndeiice  ot  Ncw-Grauada,  including  Quito,  of 
Cl.iii,  and  of  Bueims  Ayres. 

We  have  itu  authejitic  documents  to  enable  us  to  bring  down  the 
history  of  Peru  to  the  present  time. 

Rfligion.  Peru  constituies  a  single  archbishopric.  It  is  divid- 
ed into  5  dioceses  ;  that  of  Lima  under  the  archbishop  ;  and  those 
of  Truxillo,  Guamangua,  Cusco,  and  Arequipa  under  tiieir  respec- 
tive bishops.  These  dioceses  are  coextensive  with  the  same  name. 
Beside  the  chapters  of  these  dioceses  there  are  557"  curacies  in  the 
royal  gift. 

Government.  The  governnient  is  vested  in  a  viceroy  and  a  roy- 
al audience.  The  viceroy  is  appointed  for  three  years  ;  but  the 
king  may  prolong  his  tenure  of  office.  He  enjoys  all  the  privi- 
leges of  royalty,  and  is  absolute  in  all  aifairs,  civil,  criminal,  fiscal, 
political,  and  military.  He  has  a  body  guard  of  160  horse  and  50 
halberdiers,  and  a  guard  within  the  palace  of  100.  The  audience 
consists  of  the  viceroy,  who  is  president,  a  regent,  8  oidors  (audi' 
torn)  or  judges,  4  alcalds  of  the  court,  and  3  fiscals.  The  audience 
is  always  held  in  the  viceroy's  palace,  in  the  three  saloons  appro- 
priated to  it.  In  one  it  holds  deliberations,  and  the  viceroy  pre- 
sides. In  a  second  it  sits  as  a  court,  and  hears  civil  C2.u?,&sfiri-vate- 
ly  ;  and  in  a  third,  jmblidy  ;  the  senior  oidor  presiding  in  both. 
A  criminal  court  sits  in  a  fourth  saloon,  consisting  of  the  four  al- 
calds, and  a  criminal  fiscal.  Next  to  the  audience  is  the  cham- 
ber of  accounts,  consisting  of  a  commissioner,  5  chief  accountants, 
2  receivers,  and  2  dii"cctors,  who  regulate  the  distribution  of  the 
revenue.  The  junta  of  ti)e  treasury  consists  of  the  viceroy,  the  re- 
gent of  the  audience,  a  treasurer,  and  otiier  officers. 

Population.  From  a  census  recently  taken,  Peru  contains 
1,079,1 22  persons  of  all  sexes,  conditions,  and  denominations.  The 
number  of  towns  and  villages  is  computed  at  1460.* 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  inhabitants  here,  as  in  the  other 
Spanish  colonics,  consist  of  whites,  Indians,  and  negroes ;  and  the 
various  casts  arising  from  the  intermixture  of  these  three.  Less 
distinction  is  observed  here  in  the  dress  of  the  different  classes, 
than  in  New-Granada.  Commerce  is  the  common  employment  of 
the  most  wealthy  families.  Many  of  the  whites  also  engage  in  the 
mechanic  arts.  The  inhabitants  are  generally  hospitable  to  stran- 
gers. They  are  naturally  gay  and  lively  in  their  tempers,  clear, 
und  discriminating  in  their  understanding.     Many  of  them,  even  of 

•  Estella  XX.  250. 


o34  PEHU. 

the  females,  are  well  informed.  The  love  of  gain  and  magnifi- 
cence, appears  to  be  the  predominating  passions.  These,  howev- 
er, do  not  prevent  a  great  licentiousness,  which  pervades  all  ranks 
and  classes.  This  is  followed  by  a  very  general  prevalence  of 
syphilis  ;  a  disease  hereditary  in  most  families,  and  so  common  as 
not  to  be  attentled,  in  either  sex,  wit!i  the  least  disgrace.  Multi- 
tudes have  it  during  the  whole  of  their  lives. 

Cities  and  Tonvns.  Lima  was  founded  by  Pizarro  in  1535.  It 
is  situated  in  the  centre  of  th.e  spacious  and  delightful  valley  of  i?i- 
?«ac,  an  Indian  word,  out  of  which  the  Spaniards  have  made  Lima. 
The  river  Rimac  flov/s  on  the  N.  side  of  the  city,  separating  it  from 
the  suburb  of  St.  Lazarus.  This  river  is  fordable,  except  in  the 
rainy  season,  when  it  becomes  a  torrent.  A  noble  stone  bridge  is 
thrown  over  it,  having  a  beautiful  gate  at  the  S.  end,  opening 
through  the  wall  of  the  city.  The  form  of  the  city  is  nearly  trian- 
gular, the  base  extending  along  the  river.  Its  length,  from  E.  to 
W.  is  4100  yards,  and  the  greatest  breadth  2307.  The  wall  is  of 
brick,  and  is  flanked  with  84  bastions,  without  platform  or  embra- 
sures. It  has  7  gates  and  3  posterns,  and  was  designed  chiefly  as 
a  defence  against  the  Indians.  The  town  is  divided  into  5  parishes, 
and  contains  23  monasteries,  14  nunneries,  16  hospitals,  4  colleges, 
and  numerous  public  schools.  In  the  centre  of  the  great  square 
is  a  spacious  and  superb  fountain  of  exquisite  architecture.  Ac- 
cording to  the  Peruvirn  Mercury,  Lima  contained,  in  1600,  14,262 
inhabitants  ;  hi  1614,  25,455  ;  in  1700,  37,259  ;  and  in  1790,  52,627. 
Of  this  last  number  47>796  were  secular  persons  of  all  descviptions-j 
viz.  17,215  whites;  3912  Indians;  4531  mestizos;  8960  negroes ; 
5972  mulattoes  ;  2383  quarterons  ;  219  quinterons  ;  3584  sambos  ; 
and  1 120  chir.os.  Tlie  number  of  religious  persons  was  4831  ;  of 
whom  2555  were  males,  and  2276  females.  The  market  of  Lima 
is  admirably  supplied.  Its  commerce  is  very  extensive.  Callao, 
its  port,  2^  leagues  W.  from  Lima,  was  formerly  a  town  of  some 
size,  but  at  present  is  merely  a  road,  with  a  few  warehouses. 

Cusco,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  monarchy,  contains  9  churches, 
and  numerous  convents.  The  cathedral  is  of  stone,  and  admirably 
built.  The  population  is  estimated  at  26.000.  The  Guatanay,  a 
small  river,  runs  oy  the  tov/n.  The  site  of  the  city  is  nearly  as 
large  as  that  of  Lima. 

AREquiPA  was  founded  by  Pizarro,  iu  1539.  It  stands  in  the 
valley  of  Quilca,  in  the  southern  part  of  Peru,  about  20  leagues 
from  the  sea  ;  ar,d  in  point  of  population,  is  the  second  city  of  Pe- 
ru. The  houses  are  well  built  of  stone,  and  vaulted,  generally  lof- 
ty, commodious,  finely  decorated  without,  and  i.eatly  furnished 
within.  The  streets  are  kept  very  clean,  by  means  of  canals  which 
commur.icate  with  (the  Chile)  a  river  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
population,  in  1785,  was  estimated  at  30,000.  Aranta  is  its  sea- 
port. 

TnuxiLLo  i'j  in  lat.  8  6  3  S.  It  was  built  by  Pizarro,  in  1535, 
in  the  valley  of  Chimo,  and  is  half  a  league  from  the  sea.  The 
houses  are  generally  of  brick,  and  of  a  decent  appearance,  but  only 


PERU. 


3ji 


®f  one  story.  Tlie  population  is  about  9000,  Guanchaco,  2  leagues 
N.  is  its  port. 

GuAMANGA  was  founded  by  Pizarro,  in  1339,  and  lies  between 
Xiima  and  Cusco.  The  liouses  are  chiefly  of  stone,  and  the  city, 
including-  the  suburbs,  is  extensive. 

Caxamarca  is  nearly  in  the  latitude  of  Truxiilo,  and  on  tlic 
eastern  Cordillera.  The  population  is  about  12,000  ;  many  of  theu^ 
are  Indians,  who  are  very  ingenious  in  the  manufacture  of  cottons, 
particularly  tapestry.  The  elevation  of  the  town  above  the  sea  is 
9370  feet. 

LAMBAYEquE  Ues  on  a  small  river  of  the  same  name,  N.  of 
Truxillo,  and  about  2  leagues  from  the  sea.  It  contains  about  1 500 
houses,  chiefly  of  cane  plastered  over,  and  8000  inhabitants. 

IcA  stands  on  the  lea,  not  far  from  the  sea,  and  contains  about 
6000  inhabitants.     It  exports  glass,  wine,  and  brandy. 

Revenue.  The  chief  source  of  revenue  is  the  coinage  at  Lima. 
Estella  supposes  that  tlie  royal  treasury  receives  more  than 
4,500,000  dollars  annually. 

Commerce.    There  were  belonging  to  the  port  of  Lima,  in  1789, 

tons. 

8  galleons  of  from  1800  to  750  tons  in  all         8,350 

1 1  merchant  frigates  650  to  300         in  all         5,000 

14  nacket  boats  400  to  125         in  all         3/)25 


State  of  the  Peruvian  commerce,  in  1789  : 

Provincial  exports.     Imports. 
Buenos  Ayres  2,034,980  864,790 

Chili  458,318  629,800 

New-Granada  178,295  284,460 

Guatemala  28,350  124,500 


Island  of  Chiloe 


2,649,942 
30,000 


1,903,550 
51,200 


16,375 

Balance. 

+  1,170,190 

—  17 1, 483' 

— 156,165 

— 96,150 


+  746,392 
--21,200 


2,679,942  1,954,750  +725,192 

The  commerce  with  Spain  was  carried  on  through  the  poits  of 

the  gulf  Mexico,  till   October,    1778.     At  tliat  time  a  free  trade 

was  permitted  between  Cadiz  and   Callao.     The  following  is  the 

state  of  the  commerce  between  those  two  ports  for  5  years  : 


1785 
1786 
1787 
1788 
1789 


Gold  and  silver. 

7,144,325-2| 
8,285, 659-7| 
4,5  18,246-3-^ 
5,463,973-1-1 
2,449,495-6| 


Rxjiorts 

Other  prod. 

733,587-4 

882,807-1 

906,022 

579,160-2 

523,080 


Total  27,86 15700-4|.    24,3,6656-7  31,486,357-3 


Price  at  Lima. 

7,877,9  I  2-6|- 
9,168,467-(;| 
5.424,268-r4 
6,0+3, 1  33— ')-|- 


2,972,575-61 


Price  at  C?.diz- 
8,823,1  1.5-64' 
10,369,502-3-1, 
6,503,961-2-^. 
6,798,374-0| 
3,484,386-2|. 


35,979, 399-6.' 


S56 


PERU. 


1785 
1786 
1787 
1788 
1789 

Invoiced 

prices. 
Add  22 
per  cent. 


Spanish  prod. 

l,932,04u-(4 
5,1  13,389-5-^ 
3,225,  lt)7-5| 
l,29S,250-7.i 
3,007,663-7^ 

I  2,576,5  10-0| 
2,727,064-1 

15,303,574-U 


Imports. 

Foreign  prod. 

3,106,056-21 
6.358,901-6 

i,426.58i-5| 
995,055-6^ 

i,2l6,855-3| 

14,103,450-74 
2,990,428-5 


Price  at  Cartiz.iPrice  at  Lima. 
5,038,096-5|-  6,965. 231-3| 
1 .472,22  1  -2|  14,734,<  '84-4^ 
5.651,749-2  j  7,257.74  l-6f 
2,293,3'.'6-5|-'  2,940,992-7|. 
2,224,5  !7-2|.    2,856,y65-0|. 


.'6,679,960-77  -34.755,0  15-7' 
5,717,492-6   |   7,344,297-7 


17,093, 879-4^(32, 397,453-5|  42,099,313  6-J 

The  22  per  cent,  is  added  on  account  of  the  superior  value  of  silver 
at  Cadiz. 

Hence  it  appears  that  the  trade  of  Peru,  in  the  year  1789,  at  the 
invoiced  prices,  was  as  follows  : 

Exports.  Imports. 

With  Spain  2,972,575-6|  2,224,5 17-2f 

Witii  the  colonies      2,649,942  1,954,750 


5,622,517,-62  4,179,267-2| 

The  excess  of  imports  and  exports,  in  the  year  1785  and  1786,  was 
owin!.^  to  the  trac'e  havin^;  been  shut  up  by  the  previous  war.  Mer- 
chandize to  tlie  amount  of  more  tlian  21  millions  of  dollars,  accord- 
ing to  ilic  L4iJi'i-  pi  ices,  was  shipped  in  those  ivjg  years  at  Cadiz  for 
Lima,  and  7  millions  the  y^ar  after.  This  was  much  irsore  than 
the  annual  consumption  of  the  country,  and  occasioned  the  great 
deficii  in  tlie  two  following  years.  Probably  the  most  fair  estimate 
that  we  can  make  would  be  to  add  the  average  amount  of  tiie  ex- 
ports and  imports  to  and  from  Spain,  for  5  years,  to  the  exports  and 
imports  to  and  from  tlie  colonies  in  1789,  This  gives  us  the  fol- 
lov/ing  results  : 

Exvorts.  Imports. 

With  Spain,  average  of  5  years      g7,195,880  88,419,862 

With  the  colonies  in  1789  2,649,942  1,954,750 


9,845,822  10,374,612 

Climate  and  Seasons.  The  climate  of  the  various  places  in  Pe- 
ru depends  njuch  on  their  situation.  The  highest  Andes  are  per- 
petually covered  with  snow  ;  and  experience  an  uninterrupted  win- 
ter between  the  tropics.  The  lower  mountains  liave  usually  the 
same  covering  in  the  cold  season  ;  while  the  hills  enjoy  a  never 
failing  spring.  The  elevated  plain  between  the  two  Cordilleras, 
called  by  Humboldt  tlie  high  table  land  of  Peru,  has  scarcely  any 
variation  of  temperature  throughout  the  year  ;  the  mercury  of  Fah- 
renheit always  standing  at  about  65  or  66°.  The  country  is  here 
perpetually  vcrdaiu,  and  the  grains,  the  vegetables,  and  the  fine 
fruits  of  Europe  fmd  here  a  genial  climate,  amidst  those  of  the  tor- 
rid zone.     The  only  distinction  of  seasons  arises  from  the  rains 


PERU.  ssr 

which  prevail  from  November  to  May.  In  the  country  of  Valles, 
or  the  plain  between  the  western  covdillera  and  the  Pacific,  the  cli- 
mate is  materially  different.  The  chief  division  of  seasons  is  iiere 
into  winter  and  summer.  The  winter  begins  with  July  and  lasts 
till  the  end  of  November.  It  is  seriously  colder  than  the  rest  ot 
the  year.  The  month  preceding  it  is  commonly  called  autumn,  and 
the  month  following  spring.  The  only  winds  prevailing  here  are 
the  S,  S.  S.  E.  and  S.  E.  The  S.  S.  E.  is  the  most  common,  par- 
ticularly in  winter. 

Face  of  the  Country.  A  hint  has  been  given  of  this  in  the  pre- 
ceding article.  The  country  of  Valles  is  a  narrow  plain  of  from 
35  to  70  miles  in  width  ;  extendisig  from  the  coast  to  the  western 
Cordillera.  Immediately  E  ot"  this,  is  the  lower  or  western  chain  of 
the  Andes,  reaching  the  whole  length  of  Peru  ;  not  in  one  unbrok- 
en elevation,  like  the  Cordillera  of  Mexico,  but  composed  of  suc- 
cessive summits  of  immense  height,  between  which  tlie  eastern  in* 
habitants  find  a  laborious  passage  to  the  country  of  Valles.  East 
of  the  western  coidiliera  lies  a  high  valley,  or  elevated  table  land, 
generally  from  8000  to  10,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean. 
The  width  of  this  valley  varies  materially  in  different  places  ;  Ul- 
loa  says,  however,  that  is  often  from  105  to  175  miles.  The  east- 
ern Cordillera  consists  also  of  separate  summits,  but  less  broken 
than  the  western,  and  has  an  average  height  of  15,000  feet. 

Rivers.  Three  of  the  sources  of  the  Amazon  are  in  Peru,  the 
Tunguragua,  the  Guallaga,  and  the  Apurimac. 

The  Guallaga  issues  from  lake  Guanuco,  in  lat.  10  57  S.  At 
first  it  flows  precipitately  to  the  N.  as  far  as  lat.  10  3  S. ;  where  it 
turns  eastward,  and,  passing  a  little  to  the  S.  of  Leon  de  Guanucoj, 
preserves  the  same  direction  to  the  town  of  Muna,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  mountainous  country  in  lat.  9  55  S.  Here  it  bends  impetu- 
ously to  the  N.  between  two  high  and  rugged  mountains,  flows 
over  several  dreadful  precipices,  and  in  hit.  9  22  S.  receives  from 
the  W.  the  Monzon  The  River  of  the  Moon  joins  it  from  the  E. 
in  lat.  8  40  S.  whence  continuing  its  northern  course,  it  takes  a 
new  bend,  at  the  town  of  V^alle,  in  lat.  7  50  ;  below  which  it  forms 
two  difficult  passes,  named  Sabaloyaco  and  Cachalnianuca.  The 
Huayabamba  flcrws  into  it  from  the  W.  in  lat.  7  33  S.  half  a  mile 
broad  ;  below  which  it  takes  the  name  of  Guallaga,  and  in  lat.  7  10 
S.  receives  on  the  same  side,  the  Moyobamba  of  equal  size.  Some 
distance  below,  it  leaves  the  mountainous  country,  receives  the 
Chipurana,  from  the  E.  and  thence  flows,  with  a  gentler  current) 
through  the  plains  of  Los  Mayuas.  Just  before  its  junction  with 
the  Tunguragua,  in  lat.  5  4  S.  it  divides  into  two  branches.  Its 
width  here  is  180  fathoms,  and  its  depth  28  fathoms.  The  united 
stream  is  for  some  distance  half  a  league  broad,  and,  for  about  a 
league,  its  course  is  a  diagonal  of  the  directions  of  both,  till  at 
length,  that  of  the  Tunguragua  predominates. 

Mineralogif.  The  following  enumeration  of  the  mines  of  Peru 
is  given  by  Skinner,  as  extracted  from  the  Peruvian  Mercury  ©f 
5  791  : 

43 


i3S  AMAZONIA. 


Intendency. 

Wi 

rou^ht. 

Abandoned:- 

1 

_-A.' 

^ 

, ^ 

"! 

Gold. 

Silver, 

.  Mercury. 

Copper. 

.  Lead. 

Gold.  Sil 

Iver. 

Truxillo 

2 

134 

0 

0 

0 

1 

161 

Lima 

4 

.131 

1 

4 

0 

0 

70 

Tarma 

0 

22r 

0 

0 

2 

0 

21 

Guanca  Velica 

I        1 

80 

2 

0 

10 

2 

215 

Guamanga 

60 

102- 

1 

0 

0 

5 

63 

Guantajaya 

1 

20 

0 

0 

0 

19 

30 

Casco 

0 

19 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

Arequipa 

1 

71 

0 

0 

0 

4 

28 

69 

784 

4 

4 

12 

29 

598 

The  number  of  unserviceable  silver  mines  is  owing  to  the  fact  that 
many  of  them,  after  being  opened,  have  been  completely  choked  by 
the  vt'atcr,  which  flows  in  from  the  neighboring  highlands.  Daring 
rv  space  of  10  years,  from  January,  1780,  to  December,  1789,  the 
above  mines  yielded  55,359  marks  of  gold,*  22  carats  ;  and 
3,739,763  marks  of  silver.  In  1790  the  silver  muies  yielded  412,117 
marks  of  silver  ;  being  an  excess  of  38,147  marks  over  the  average 
produce  for  the  preceding  10  years.  The  product  of  the  Mexican 
mines  appears  to  be  much  greater  than  that  of  the  Peruvian  ;  for., 
in  1790,  that  of  the  gold  mines  amounted  to  5024  marks  of  gold,  and 
that  of  the  silver  to  2,179,455  marks  of  silver,  coined  in  the  I'oyall 
mint  at  Mexico  -o  total  value  of  both  SI 8,063,640. 


AMAZONIA, 

THIS  name  has  been  given  to  a  great  and  indefinite  extent  of 
country  possessed  by  numerous  independent  tribes  in  the  heart  of 
South-America.  The  line  of  dem.arcation,  between  the  Portu- 
guese and  Spanish  possessions,  passes  through  the  heart  of  the  ter- 
ritory, and  divides  the  whole  of  it  between  those  two  nations  ;  Por- 
tugal claiming  all  t'.iat  lies  E.  of  that  line,  and  Spain  all  that  lies 
W.  of  it.  According  to  the  treaty  of  St.  Ildefonso,  therei"ore,  there 
is  no  iiulependent  territory.  But  a  great  number  of  powerful  and 
warlike  tribes  of  Indians  were,  at  the  time,  of  a  different  opinion  : 
and,  as  they  were  not  consulted  at  the  formation  of  the  treaty,  there 
is  no  immediate  prospect  that  they  will  recognize  its  validity. 

Extent.  It  is  impossible  to  assign  any  exact  limits  to  this  terri- 
tory. On  the  S.  it  may,  however,  be  considered  as  extending  to 
the  confines  of  Paraguay,  in  about  lat.  14°  S.  ;  on  the  W.  to  the 
river  Ucayale  ;  on  the  N.  to  the  Amazon  ;   and  on  the  E.  to  the  To- 

•The  mark  of  gold  being  estimated  at  125  dollars,  and  the  mark  of  silver  a: 
8,the  total  amount  of  the  produce  of  the  mines  in  the  above   10  ^i^ears  will  h'= 
34,437,979  dollars. 


BRAZIL.  339 

cantin.     Tins  country  is  estimated,  vaguely  however,  at  1400  miles 
!ong,  by  900  broad. 

Population.  The  Portuguese  have  some  small  settlements  on 
.-the  coast  between  cape  Nortli,  and  tlie  mouth  of  the  Amazon ;  these 
.excepted,  ihe  natives  have  the  sole  possession  of  the  country.  The 
natives  are  of  good  stature,  with  agreeable  features,  long  black 
hair,  and  copper  colored  complexion,  have  a  taste  for  sculpture  and 
painting,  and  excel  in  the  mechanic  arts.  They  weave  and  spin 
cotton  cloth.  Their  houses  arc  of  wood  and  clay,  thatched  witii 
jeeds. 

Cimatc.  Though  under. the  torrid  zone,  the  air  is  temperate, 
ewing. partly  to  the  great  rains,  which  occasion  the  overflowing  of 
the  rivers,  and  the  inundation  of  the  country  for  half  the  year,  and 
partly  to  the  cloudiness  of  the  weather. 

Soil  and  Productions.     The   soil  is  fertile,  and  produces  corn 
.  and  grain,  and  all  kinds  of  tropical  fruits. 

Rivers.  These  are  the  Vilcomayo  which  waters  with  a  copious 
stream,  the  valley  of  Urubamba,  and  flows  into  the  Apurimac  in 
lat.  12  15. 

The  Jauja,  Jauxa,  or  IVIantaro,  issues  from  lake  Chinchay- 
cocha,  lat.  II  3  S.  Running  S.  a  great  distance,  it  crosses  the 
valley  of  Jauxa,  and  winding  to  the  E.  is  increased  by  a  large 
stream  from  the  heights  of  Guanca-Velica.  The  cordillera  for  a 
-while  turns  it  to  the  N.  and  it  thus  forms  the  long  peninsula  nam- 
ed Tallacaxa.  It  then  resumes  its  eastei*n  direction,  and  con- 
-tinues  it  to  the  Apurimac. 

The  Perene,  a  si>*aller  stream,  originates  within  two  leagues  of 
Tarma,  and  dividing  that  city,  is  afterwards  greatly  enlarged  be- 
fore it  is  lost  in  the  Apurimac. 

The  Paucartambo  issues  from  the  cordillera  of  Viicanota,  in  the 
same  parallel  with  the  Apurimac  ;  into  the  eastern  side  of  which 
it  flows  in  lat.  10  45  S.  It  is  said  to  contain  a  greater  quantity  of 
water,  by  one  half,  than  the  Apurimac. 

The  Pachitca  originates  in  lat.  10  45  S.  near  fort  Quiparacra, 
ard  falls  into  the  Gran  Paro,  in  lat.  8  26  S. 

The  rivers  Mamore  and  Magdalena  form  the  Madeira,  in  lat. 
11  S.     The  course  of  the  Madeira,  after  the  confluence,  is  N.  E. 

The  Topayos  and  the  Zingu  are  both  large  tributaries  of  the 
v4mazon  on  the  same  side,  below  the  Madeira. 


BRAZIL. 

INXLUDING  PORTUGUESE  GUIANA. 

Extent.  THE  Portuguese  possessions  in  South- America  extejid 
irom  the  mouth  of  the  Arowary,  or  Aracuari,  in  lat.  1  30  N.  along 
the  eastern  coast,  as  far  as  lat.  33  5  S.  about  60  miles  beyond  the 
mouth  of  Rio  Grande  ;  the  tract  of  land  between  this  parallel  and 
the  mouth  of  the  little  river  Chuy  being  neutral  territory,  claimed 


340  BRAZIL. 

neither  by  Spain  nor  Portugal.  The  western  mouth  of  the  Ynpwra 
is  the  boundary  of  the  Portuguese  possessions,  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
Amazon  ;  while  on  the  south  side  of  that  river  they  extend  nearly 
two  thirds  across  the  continent.  The  western  limit  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Amazon  is  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Tefi,  which  fallii 
into  the  Amazon  on  the  south  from  lake  Roga^ado,  in  Ion.  64°  W.  ; 
for  the  Portuguese  have  a  town,  called  Tefi,  at  this  place.  This 
is  their  most  western  settlement,  but  it  does  not  hence  follow  that 
it  is  on  the  frontier  of  their  territory.  The  most  eastern  limit  of 
Brazil  is  in  Ion.  34  30  W.  The  length  of  these  possessions,  from 
the  nnouth  oi  the  Arowary  to  the  southern  limit,  is  2450  miles. 
The  breadth,  in  Portuguese  Guiana,  exceeds  1000  miles.  The 
greatest  breadth,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tefi  to  cape  St.  Roque,  is 
more  than  2000.  That  from  the  coast  to  the  Paraguay,  N.  of  the 
Mibotety,  is  about  1200  ;  from  the  coast  to  the  Parana,  N.  of  the 
Iguaza,  it  is  450  ;  and  farther  S.  it  terminates  nearly  in  a  point. 
The  treaty  limits  of  Brazil  thus  include  more  than  one  third  of 
South-America.  Almost  all  the  country,  however,  W.  the  oi  To- 
cantin  is  still  independent. 

Boundaries.  The  territory  N.  of  the  Amazon  is  called  Portu- 
guese Guiana.  Including  that  in  our  account,  the  boundaries  are 
as  follows  ;  on  the  N.  Spanish  Guiana,  now  a  part  ot  Venezuela, 
English  Guiana,  and  the  Atlantic ;  on  the  E.  and  S.  E.  the  Atlan- 
tic ;  oi>  the  S.  W.  and  W.  Buenos  Ayres,  Peru,  and  New-Gra- 
jEiada. 

Divisions.  A  good  deal  of  uncertainty  remains  with  respect  tp 
this  article.     The  following  we  believe  is  coirect : 

I.  Northern  Provinces.  12.   Porto  Seguro 

1.  Para  13.  Espiritu  Santo 

2.  Maranhao  HI-   Southern  Provinces. 

3.  Siara  Paiagus  14.  Rio  Janeiro 

4.  Sanla  Cathcrina  15.  St.  Vincent 

5.  Rio  Grande  16.  Del  Rey 

6.  Paraiba  IV.   hit  trior  Provinces. 

7.  Temaraca  17.   Minas  Goyaves  or  Gojas 

8.  Peinambuco  18.   Minas  Geraes 

II.  Middle  Provinces.  19.  Santo  Paulo 

9.  Scregippe  20.  Cuyaba 

JO.  Bahia  21.  Mattogrosso 

11.  llheos 
jVame.     This  country  was  called,  by  its   discoverer,  S(,  Croix, 
It  derived  its  preeent  name  from   the   celebrated   diewood  foun^ 
abundantly  in  its  foiests,  called  the  brazil  wood 

Historxj.  Brazil  was  discovered  by  Pedro  Alvarez  Cabral,  a 
Portuguese,  in  1500,  on  a  voyage  from  Lisbon  to  the  East-Indies. 
In  1548  the  inquisition,  after  piundeiing  the  Jews  of  their  prop- 
erty, banished  them  to  Brazil.  Tiiomas  de  Sousa,  the  first  Portu- 
guese governor,  was  sent  over  the  next  year.  He  inimediately 
built  St.  Salvador,  on  the  bay  of  All  Saints.  This  was  tl^e  first  set- 
tlement. As  the  province  soon  began  to  flourish,  it  was  attacked 
Isy  the  French,  and  afterwards  by  the  Spaniards,  with  little  success. 


BRAZIL.  341 

The  Dutch,  however,  in  1624,  reduced  St.  Salvador.  A  Spanish 
squadron  of  5  6  sail,  M'ith  12,000  stamen  and  marines,  sailed  the 
next  year  for  St.  Salvador,  and  took,  it  after  a  short  resistance. 
B  azil  at  tnis  time  was  divided  into  14  provinces.  The  Dutch 
took  Pernanibuco  in  1630,  and  the  provinces  of  Temaraca,  Parai- 
ba,  ana  Rio  Grande,  in  tlie  5  followu)g  years.  Siara,  Seregippc, 
and  the  greater  part  of  Bahia,  fell  into  their  hands  soon  after,  in 
spite  of  the  vigorous  opposition  of  the  Spaniards.  Portugal  as- 
serting her  independence,  in  1640,  tlic  7  provincescf  Brazil,  which 
were  not  subdued  by  the  Dutch,  joined  the  mother  country  in  shak- 
ing off  the  Spanish  yoke.  The  Dutch  and  Portuguese  immediate- 
ly agreed  to  divide  the  country,  each  retaining  7  provinces.  This 
division  gave  rise  to  the  nanxe  of  The  Brazils^  instead  of  Brazil. 
As  the  Dutch  government  soon  began  to  oppress  the  Portuguese 
colonists,  they  took  up  arms,  and  in  a  short  time  cleared  Brazil  of 
the  Hollanders.  Since  that  period  Portugal  has  remained  in  un- 
disturbed possession. 

The  government  of  Portugal,  in  consequence  of  the  invasion  of 
that  country,  by  the  French,  in  1807,  sailed  for  Brazil,  and  arrived 
there  the  latter  part  of  that  year. 

Religion.  The  Catholic  religion  is  established.  Since  the  late 
removal  of  the  government,  all  others  have  been  tolerated.  St. 
Salvador  is  the  see  of  the  archbishop  of  Brazil.  Bishoprics  are 
established  at  Rio  Janeiro,  Pernambuco,  and  various  other  places. 
Government.  Brazil  is  now  a  monarchy.  The  crown  is  abso- 
lute, as  it  had  long  been  in  Portugal  previous  to  its  removal. 

Population.  Sir  George  Staunton  informs  us,  that  the  number 
of  whites  in  Brazil,  in  1792,  was  estimated  at  200,000,  and  that  of 
Africans,  or  their  descendants,  at  600,000.  A  census  is  said  to  be 
now  taking.  We  should  not  be  surprised  if  its  result  should  ex- 
ceed 1,500,000  whites  and  1,000,000  blacks.  Beside  these  the 
number  of  Indians  is  very  great.  They  live,  generaly,  in  consid- 
erable clans,  and  have  discovered  an  invincible  attachment  to  free- 
dom. 

Mannt'fs  and  Customs.  When  walking  abroad,  men  of  the  low- 
er classes  generally  wear  cloaks  ;  those  of  the  middle  and  higher 
ranks  never  appear  without  their  swords.  Although  20,000  blacks 
are  annually  imponed,  the  number  of  genuine  necroes  is  very- 
small,  compared  with  the  immense  numbers  of  the  various  mixed 
grades.  In  their  houses  and  persons  the  inhabitants  arc  remarka- 
bly negligent  of  cleanliness.  The  beds,  linen,  clothes,  and  cook- 
ery are  often  disgustingly  filthy.  The  disease  so  common  in  the 
West-Indiis  and  Spanish  South-America,  is  here  no  disgrace. 
The  inhabitants  are  generally  indolent.  They  are  not  less  super- 
stitious than  the  proper  Portuguese.  They  are  accused,  also,  by 
Staunton,  of  low  cunning  and  a  want  of  probity. 

Literature.  Great  numbers  of  the  Creoles  and  some  of  the  mes- 
tizoes, Indians,  and  mulattoes,  have  heretofore  been  educated  in 
the  imiversities  of  Portugal.  The  Brazilian  Creoles  are  said  gen- 
erally to.  have  been  superior  to  the  Portuguese  youths  in  the  ra- 


:  li  BRAZIL. 

piditj'  and  extent  of  tlicir  attainments.  There  is  a  university  at 
^^St.  Salvador.  ^ 

Cities  and  Totims.  Rio  Janeiro,  or  St.  Sebastian,  stands  in 
lat.  22  54  S.  and  in  Ion.  42  44  \N.  Its  harbor  is  scarcely  to  be  ex- 
celled for  its  capaciousness,  security,  and  convenience.  About  4 
iiuIeD  outside  of  the  harbor's  mouth,  there  is  17  or  18  fathoms  wa- 
ter. This  gradually  decreases  for  2  miles  to  7  or  8  on  the  bar,  and 
ihence  it  increases  to  17  or  18  at  the  entrance.  On  the  E.  at  the 
entrance,  is  the  fort  of  Santa  Cruz,  supported  by  a  huge  mass  of 
granite,  with  a  perpendicular  shore.  On  the  W.  is  a  great  inclin- 
ing sugar-loaf,  700  feet  in  height.  The  island  of  St.  Lucia,  oa 
which  AS  fort  St.  Lucia,  lies  directly  in  the  harbor's  mouth.  The 
cl'.annel  lies  between  the  two  forts,  is  less  than  a  mile  wide,  and  is 
well  protected.  Beyond  these  forts  the  harbor  immediately  ex- 
pands to  a  width  of  three  or  four  miles,  with  a  depth  of  from  6  to  1 8 
fathoms  ;  and  penetrates,  in  several  branches,  a  considerable  dis- 
tance into  the  country.  Beyond  the  town  it  grows  much  wider, 
and  resembles  a  large  lake,  with  many  islands  upon  its  surface. 
The  town  stands  upon  the  west  side  of  the  harbor,  4  miles  from  the 
entrance,  on  a  projecting  tongue  of  land  ;  beyond  which,  all  the 
ground  is  broken  into  hills,  and  rocks,  with  woods,  houses,  con- 
sents, and  churches  on  their  tops.  The  good  houses  are  built 
chiefly  of  hewn  stone,  and  are  handsome.  The  churches  and  con- 
vents are  numerous,  and  nobly  built ;  and  the  religious  parade,  on 
holidays,  is  not  surpassed  even  by  that  of  Lisbon.  The  present 
population  is  estimated  by  intelligent  travellers  at  150,000.  The 
proportion  of  whites  to  the  other  classes  is  greater  here  than 
elsewhere,  on  account  of  the  numerous  recent  immigrations  from 
Portugal.  The  commerce  of  the  town  is  in  a  most  flourishing 
-state. 

St.  Salvador,  Bahia  Todos  los  Santos,  (Bay  of  All  Saints) 
or,  as  it  is  most  commonly  called,  Bahia.,  is  in  lat.  12  45  S.  and  Ion. 
,39  31  W.  The  bay  of  All  Saints  puts  up  from  S.  to  N.  about  40 
miles,  and  is  8  miles  broad  at  the  mouth.  The  town  is  built  on 
ihe  eastern  shore  of  the  bay,  commencing  about  one  mile  from  the 
point  at  the  entrance.  It  extends  upwards  of  three  miles  along' 
the  coast ;  and  near  the  centre,  more  than  a  mile  into  the  interior, 
gradually  narrowing,  however,  towards  each  extremity.  There  is 
good  anchorage  close  to  the  shore,  and  vessels  may  lie  there  safe 
from  every  wind.  A  single  street  runs  along  the  shore  the  whole 
iength  of  the  town.  Immediately  back  of  this  the  country  rises 
suddenly  to  the  height  of  400  feet.  A  few  of  the  houses  are  on  the 
side  hill,  the  rest  are  on  the  top.  The  houses  are  almost  univer- 
sally of  stone,  strongly  built,  and  handsome.  The  churches  and 
convents  are  numerous,  and  many  of  them  elegant.  The  popula- 
tion is  estimated,  at  110  or  120,000,  of  whom,  about  40,000  are 
whites,  the  rest  mestizoes,  Indians,  mulattoes,  and  negroes.  The 
commerce  of  the  town  is  very  extensive,  and  is  daily  becoming 
more  so. 

PjERNi\MBuco  is  450  miles  N.  E.  of  San  Salvador,  and  has  v. 


BRAZIL.  rAr,> 

stnall  inconvenient  harbor.     Its  commerce,  however,  is  extensive, 
and  the  population  is  said  to  be  about  40,000. 

PARA'lies  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Tocanlin,  in  lat-  1  30  S.  more 
than  900  miles  W.  N.  W.  of  cape  St.  Roque.  It  stands  on  a  com- 
Tnandinsj;  situation,  and  is  well  fortified.  It  is  a  rich  and  handsome 
town,  containing  several  churches  and  a  college,  and  has  a  flourish" 
ing  commerce. 

Co7nnierce.  The  trade  of  Brazil  is  now  opened  to  all  friendly  na- 
tions. A  frank  and  liberal  system  of  regulations  has  lately  been- 
substituted  in  the  room  of  the  former  narrow  and  impolitic  restric- 
tions. The  capital  exports  are  sug-ar,  cotton,  cattle,  hides,  rum, 
coflee,  rice,  tobacco,  indiijo,  and  Brazil-wood.  The  amount  of  ex- 
ports is  rapidly  increasins^  every  year.  The  cotton  of  Brazil  and 
Englisli  Guiana  will  proljably  soon  supersede  the  demand  for  that. 
of  the  Southern  United  States,  in  the  English  market. 

Climate.  In  the  tropical  regions  of  Bi'azil  the  only  seasons  arc 
the  rainy  and  dry.  The  rainy  season  begins  in  April  and  ends  in 
August.  The  mercury  is  rarely  as  liit!:h  as  90°.  At  St.  Salvado;-, 
in  lat.  12  45  S.  the  annual  temperature  is  about  75°,  and  the  heat  is 
not  very  often  oppressive.  Regular  breezes  from  the  sea  occur 
daily,  and  are  very  refrcshuig.  The  climate  of  Brazil  is  describ- 
ed as  generally  healthy. 

Soil  and  ./Agriculture.  The  soil  is  spoken  of  as  remarkably  fer- 
tile. All  the  larger  rivers,  like  the  Nile,  overflow  their  banks,  and 
enrich  the  circumjacent  country.  Maize,  wheat,  rice,  maniac,  the 
sugar  cane,  coffee,  cacao,  indigo,  pepper,  tobacco,  and  the  cactus,. 
on  which  is  bred  the  insect  yielding  the  cochineal,  are  among  tha 
objects  of  agriculture. 

Rivers.  The  Amazon,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tcfi,  the  Madei- 
ra, below  the  mouth  of  the  Ytenas,  and  the  Topayos  and  Zingu,. 
through  their  whole  extent,  are  in  Brazil.  The  Parana,  a  i)ranch 
of  the  La  Plata,  runs  probably  more  than  half  its  course  in  Brazil, 
and  is  also  for  some  distance  a  boundary  between  it  and  Buenos 
Ayres.  The  Paraguay  is  a  Brazilian  stream,  above  lake  Xarayes. 
Between  that  lake  and  the  mountains  S.  of  the  Mibotety,  it  is  the 
western  frontier.  The  Cuyaba,  and  several  other  large  tributaries 
of  the  Paraguay,  run  wholly  in  Brazil.  The  Uraguay  also  rises 
here,  and  runs  several  hundred  miles  before  it  enters  Buenos 
Ayres. 

The  San  Francisco  is  the  largest  river  of  the  eastern  coast  of 
Brazil,  and  the  Tocantin  of  tlie  northern.  Both  rise  in  the  prov- 
ince of  Minas  Geraes.  The  former  cannot  run  less  than  1000  miles, 
nor  the  latter  less  than  1  500. 

Mineralogy.  The  gold  and  diamond  mines  were  opened  in  1 68!  . 
The  most  important  are  about  75  leagues  from  Rio  Janeiro.  One 
of  the  largest  diamonds  ever  known  v/as  found  here.  It  weighed 
1-680  carats,  or  12-^  ounces,  and  was  valued  at  56,737,500/.  sterling. 
All  the  diamond  mines  belong  exclusively  to  the  crown.  The  golds 
and  silver  mines  are  said  to  hive  yiehlcd  abov-e  5  milUon.'j,stcrliiU':r 
annuallv. 


544  BUENOS  AYRES. 


VICEROYALTY  OF  BUENOS  AYRES, 

Extent.  THIS  is  the  largest  of  the  Spanish  colonies  in  Souths 
America.  It  extends  from  the  Atlantic,  Ion.  53  W.  to  the  Pacific 
in  Ion.  70  W.  and  from  iat  33°  40'  to  38''  S.» 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  lies  Peru,  Amazonia  and  Brazil ;  on  the 
E.  Brazil  and  the  Atlantic  ;  on  the  S.  Patagonia  ;  on  the  W.  Chili, 
the  Pacific  ocean,  and  P>.'ru. 

Divisions.  This  country  was  formerly  divided  into  6  dioceses, 
La  Pas,  Santa  Cruz  dc  la  Sierra,  Charcas,  Tucuman,  Paraguay, 
and  La  Plata.  These  are  subdivided  into  33  jurisdictions  or  pro- 
vinces. 

When  the  viccroyalty  was  constituted,  in  1788,  it  was  divided  in- 
to 9  intendcncies,  La  Pas,  Paucar-Colla,  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra, 
La  Plata,  Potosi,  Cochabamba,  Tucuman  or  Salta,  Paraguay,  and 
Buenos  Ayres.  To  tliese  was  added,  as  a  tenth  intendency,  the 
province  of  Cuyo,  taken  from  Chili,  still  however  subject,  in  spirit- 
ualities, to  the  bishop  of  that  captaingeneralship. 

jVuTnes.  Wliile  attached  to  Peru,  this  whole  country  was  called 
Charcas  ;  afterward  Paraguay.  At  present  its  most  common 
name  is  Buenos  Ayres,  so  called  on  account  of  its  salubrious  cli* 
mate. 

Historij.  Juan  de  Solis  discovered  the  great  river  in  1516,  and 
called  it  by  his  own  name.  Cabot,  in  1526,  sailed  30  leagues  up 
the  Paraguay,  and  built  a  fort.  His  establishment  was  soon  brok- 
en up  by  the  Indians.  Buenos  Ayres  was  settled  in  1535,  and  e- 
vacuated  in  1539.  Its  inhabitants  removed  to  Assumption.  The 
province  of  Charcas  was  subdued  by  Gonzales  Pizairo,  from  Peru, 
in  1  538,  and  the  city  of  La  Plata  founded  the  next  year.  The  gov- 
ernment of  Tucuman  Avas  established  by  the  viceroy  of  Peru,  in 
1542,  and  the  province  subdued  in  1549,  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra 
was  founded  in  1558.  About  1560,  Tucuman  wad  claimed  as  a 
part  of  Chili,  by  the  governor  of  that  country,  and  actually  occupi- 
ed. He  founded  the  towns  Esteco,  Salta,  and  Jujuri.  In  1563,  it 
was  reannesed  to  Peru,  and  subjected  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  au- 
dience of  Las  Charcas,  which  had  been  created  in  1559.  Buenos 
Ayres  was  resettled  in  1580.  In  1586,  the  Jesuits  first  made  their 
appearance,  and  commenced  their  missions  among  tlie  Indians. 
The  audience  of  Buenos  Ayres  was  established  in  1  663,  extinguish- 
ed soon  after,  anrl  reestablished  in  1783.  The  whole  country  was 
erected  into  a  viceroyalty  in  1787. 

Religion.  The  Gare  of  the  church  in  this  viceroyalty  is  entrust- 
ed to  the  archbishop  of  La  Plata  and  5  bishops.     His  peculiar  dio- 

*  The  extensive  province,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  desert,  of  Atacama, 
lies  between  Chili  and  Peru,  and  bounds  westward  on  the  Pacific  ocean.  Ulloa, 
the  later  Spanish  writers,  and  Wllcocke, assert  that  it  belongs  to  this  viccroyalty. 
According  to  the  map  of  Wilcocke,  Port  de  Loa  is  its  northern  limit,  on  the 
coast,  and  Port  Juncal  the  southern,  leaving  an  interval  of  about  280  miles  be- 
tween them. 


BUENOS  AYRES,  Un 

cefee,  however,  includes  only  the  province  of  Charcas.  tt  was 
erected  into  a  bisliopric  in  155 1,  and  into  an  arclibishopric  in  1608. 
The  bishopric  of  Assumplion  was  founded  in  1547,  and  includes 
the  whole  province  of  Paraguay.  Tliat  of  Cordova  was  founded  in 
1570,  and  comprises  the  province  of  Tucuman  ;  that  of  Santa  Cruz 
de  la  Sierra,  in  1605,  and  extends  tl)rouij[h  the  province  of  the  same 
name  J  that  of  L.i  Pas,  in  16 /S,  and  embraces  the  province  of  La 
Pas;  and  that  of  Buenos  Ayres,  in  1620,  extending  through  that 
province.  The  inferior  clergy  are  divided  into  parish  priests,  in 
the  Spanish  settlements;  priests  settled  among  the  subjugated  In- 
dians ;  and  missionaries,  ainoug  the  wild  Indians. 

Government.  The  viceroy  resides  at  Buenos  Ayres,  which  is 
considered  as  the  capitah  His  powers  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
viceroy  of  Peru.  He  is  nominated  for  :>  years  and  has  a  salary  of 
40,000  dollars.  There  are  two  audiences  in  the  viceroyalty.  That 
of  Charcas,  at  La  Plata,  and  that  of  Buenos  Ayres,  We  know  not 
how  far  the  jurisdiction  of  each  extends.  Each  intendency  is  now 
subjected  to  a  governor  or  intendent,  with  a  salary  of  &Q00  dollars, 
except  the  governor  of  Potos!,  whose  salary  amounts  to  10,000. 
Each  governor  is  assisted  by  an  assessor,  wiio  ranks  as  lieutenant- 
general,  and  has  a  salary  of  1500  dollars.  These  constitute  a  court, 
from  which  appeals  lie  to  the  audiences.  In  the  3  intendcncies, 
particularly  exposed  to  attacks  from  the  wild  Indians,  Santa  Cruz, 
Tucuman,  and  Paraguay,  the  governor  is  vested  with  the  command 
of  tlie  troops. 

Pofiulation.  At  the  period  of  the  first  discovery  of  this  counlryj 
Wilcocke  estimates  its  population  at  1,000,000  or  1,200,000  souls. 
Estella  computes  the  population  of  this  extensive  viceroyalty  at 
1,000,000  Spaniards  or  Creoles,  and  an  inconsiderable  number  of 
Indians. 

Army.  On  a  serious  invasion  of  the  country,  probably  a  force  of 
from  10,000  to  15,000  men  might  be  brought  into  the  field. 

Revenue.  The  revenue  of  the  crown  is  divided  into  4  branches. 
The  first  is  claimed  by  the  king  as  supreme  lord  ;  the  second  com- 
prises the  duties  on  commerce  ;  the  third  the  spiritual  revenues  ; 
the  fourth  arose  from  monopolies.  It  is  stated,  by  Wilcocke,  as 
follows  : 

Dollars. 
1st  1,320,000 

2d  1,367,000 

3d  262,000 

4th  '  1,450,000 


4,399,000 
? fanners.  The  chapetones,  here,  ar.  in  the  otlier  colonies,  nre 
entitled  to  peculiar  privileges,  civil  and  political,  and  hence  are 
led  to  look  down  with  disdain  on  every  other  class.  They  possess 
the  common  Spanish  characteristics.  The  pride  and  licentious- 
ness of  the  mother  country  are  enhanced  in  the  colony.  The  Cre- 
oles can  hold  no  civil  or  military  office  of  rank.  In  the  churcli  tiiey 
are  excluded  only  from  the  epi.scopate.  These  exclusions  !0n?c<4 
44 


346  BUENOS  AYRES. 

to  the  enervating  influence  of  the  climate,  have  broken  the  energy 
of  their  minds,  and  discouraged  them  from  vigorous  exertions.  In 
their  leligious  tenets  tlie  inhabitanls  are  far  less  bigoted,  than  the 
Spaniards.  The  ladies  are  thought  the  handsomest  in  South= 
America.  Their  usual  dress  is  the  same  with  that  of  the  ladies  of 
Peru.  On  extraordinary  occasions  they  also  display  equal  mag- 
nificence and  profusion.  The  national  dance,  the  fandango.,  is  a 
great  favoiite  ;  and  the  still  more  indecent  calenda.,  which  was  in- 
troduced by  the  Guinea  negroes,  has  become  no  less  the  pastime 
of  the  whites.  In  their  assemblies  the  etiquette  of  rank  is  nearly 
abolished,  and  all,  not  openly  contaminated  by  Indian  or  negro 
blood,  are  admitted.  The  tcreeron  mestizoes  and  the  quinteron 
mulattoes  are  looked  upon  as  genuine  Creoles,  except  where  the 
influence  of  imagination  has  retarded  the  blanching. 

Cities  and  Tcwns.  Buenos  Ayres  is  built  on  the  S.  W.  bank 
of  the  La  Plata,  in  lat.  34  37  S.  and  Ion.  58  13  W.  The  river  here 
is  30  miles  across,  and  is  merely  an  open  road.  The  cathedral,  on 
the  N.  W.  side  of  the  parade,  is  spacious,  and  elegant.  There  are 
three  other  churches,  and  several  monasteries,  and  nunneries.  The 
town  hall  is  large  and  handsome.  All  tiiese  edifices  are  built  of  a 
beautiful  whiie  stone,  found  in  a  plain  not  far  distant.  The  streets 
are  broad,  and  paved  with  side  walks,  but  not  in  the  middle.  The 
houses  ai'e  of  brick,  and  about  6000  in  number.  Sir  Home  Pop- 
ham,  in  1306,  estimated  the  population  at  70,000.  About  half  are 
wdiites  ;  the  rest  are  Indians,  negroes,  arid  mixed.  The  town  is 
well  supplied  with  provisions. 

Monte  Video  stands  on  the  N.  shore  of  the  La  Plata,  in  lat.  34 
55  S.  and  Ion.  56  4  W.  on  the  only  good  port  in  the  river.  The 
harbor  has  a  narrow  entrance,  is  of  a  circular  shape,  about  4  miles 
across,  has  a  soft,  clayey  bottom,  and  is  deep  enough  for  ships  of 
the  first  rate.  The  fort  is  strong,  has  4  bastions,  and  is  mounted 
with  brass  cannon  in  the  centre  ;  the  barracks  are  bomb  proof. 
The  garrison  generally  consists  of  400  or  500  men.  The  houses 
are  all  of  stone  or  brick,  and  most  of  them  one  story.  The  roofs 
flat,  and  the  floors  of  brick,  though  some  have  only  earth.  Few 
have  glass  windows  or  chimnies.  The  streets  are  straight,  and 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles  ;  but  are  very  rough  and  incom- 
modious. On  the  W.  is  a  large  church.  The  population  is  about 
30,000.  Among  these  are  a  collection  of  strollers,  called  gauderi- 
os.  Their  mode  of  life  resembles  that  of  the  gypsies,  except,  that 
they  lire  not  arldicted  to  thieving.  Their  dress  consists  of  a  coarse 
shirt,  and  coarser  frock.  They  get  their  living  by  playing  to  the 
country  people  on  a  species  of  guitar,  and  singing  songs  of  their 
own  composition. 

PoTosi  owed  its  origin  to  the  v/ell  known  silver  mines,  and  was 
oundtd  soon  alter  their  discovery,  in  1545.  It  stands  in  lat.  20  26 
S.  and  in  Ion.  66  16  W.  about  60  miles  from  La  Plata,  on  the  S. 
side  of  a  mountain  of  the  same  name,  and  is  about  8  miles  in  cir- 
cuit. The  churches  are  remarkal)iy  magnificent,  and  profusely 
decorated  with  uttaisils  and  ornaments  of  gold  and  silver.  The 
houses  in  general  are  well  built,  and  are  most  sumptuously  fur^ 


BUENOS  AYRES.  547 

r.ished.  The  town,  according  to  Helms,  contains  70,000  inhabit- 
ants, exclusive  of  slaves  and  others,  to  the  number  of  30,000, 
employed  in  the  adjacent  mines  :  making  its  whole  population 
100,000.  Of  the  iidiabitants  about  10,000  are  Spaniards,  many  of 
them  noble  and  very  wealthy,  and  magniiicent  in  their  mode  of 
living. 

La  Plata  was  founded,  in  153S,  on  the  site  of  the  large  Indian 
town  Chiquisica.     The  houses  in  the  great  square  are  two  stories, 
but  the  others  are  but  one.     The  inhabitants  amount  to  about 
1 4,000.     The  cathedral  is  large,  and  of  good  architecture,  much 
•  ornamented  with  gilding  and  painting.     Tiiere  is  another  church, 
-5  monasteries,  2  nunneries,  and  a  hospital.     There  is  also  a  univer- 
sity dedicated  to  St.  Francis  Xavier. 

La  Pas,  at  the  foot  of  one  of  the  high  ridges  of  the  cordillera, 
contains  5  churches,  a  cathedral,  5  monasteries,  3  nunneries,  a  col- 
lege, about  4000  houses,  and  20,000  inhabitants. 

Assumption'  stands  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Paraguay,  a  little  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Pilcomayo,  and  977  miles  from  the  sea.  A  fort 
was  built  here  in  1538,  which,  from  the  conveniency  of  its  situationj 
soon  grev/  into  a  city.  It  contains  about  500  Spanish  families,  and 
several  thousands  of  mestizos  and  Indians. 

Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra  stands  at  the  foot  of  a  chain  of 
mountains,  which  bounds  the  country  of  the  Chiquitas  Indians  to 
the  N.  and  thence  runs  N.E.  towards  lake  Xarayes.  The  site  of 
the  town  is  a  circular  peninsula,  formed  by  the  river  Guapay.  It 
Js  large  and  populous,  but  ill  built.  The  houses  are  of  stone, 
thatched  with  palm  leaves.  n 

Atacama,  in  lat.  23  30  S.  is  only  100  miles  from  the  Pacific 
ocean,  on  which  it  has  a  little  port,  called  Cobija.  The  province 
of  Atacama,  of  which  it  is  the  capital,  is  an  extensive  desert,  be- 
tween Chili  and  Peru. 

Salta  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Arias,  in  a  valley  surround- 
ed by  mountains,  in  lat.  24  15  S.  It  is  regularly  divided  by  4  broad 
sti'cets.  The  market  place  is  an  extensive  square,  on  one  side  of 
which  stands  a  large  anri  beautiful  town  house,  and  opposite  to  it 
the  principal  church.  There  arc  7  churches,  600  Spanish  families, 
and  about  9000  inhabitants.  The  trade  is  extensive  with  Potosi, 
Peru,  and  Chili. 

Cordova  is  in  lat.  31  30  S.  and  in  Ion.  63  30  W.  in  a  marshy 
soil,  on  a  small  river,  called  the  Primero,  which  is  lost  in  the  salt 
lakes  to  the  S.  E.  It  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with  Peru. 
The  streets  are  paved.  The  cathedral  is  a  handsome  edifice  ;  and 
the  public  square  spacious,  and  adorned  with  buildings  of  consid- 
erable magnitude.  It  contains  about  1500  whites,  4000  negroes, 
and  a  nunaber  of  Indians.  The  climate  is  healthy  and  temperate, 
and  the  adjacent  territory  liighly  productive. 

St.  Sacrament,  nearly  opposite  Buenos  Ayres,  was  founded 
by  tlie  Portuguese  in  1679,  and,  afier  occasioning  many  disputes, 
was  ceded  to  Spain  in  1 788.  It  has  a  tolerable  port,  formed  by 
the  islands  of  St.  Gabriel.     The  fortress  on  one  of  these  is  a  strong 


|4»  BUENOS  AYRES. 

Maldonado  is  an  open  harbor  near  the  N.  entrance  of  the  L^ 
Plata.     It  is  fortified.  % 

Roads.  The  usual  route  from  Monte  Video  to  Buenos  Ayres  is, 
by  water,  55  leagues.  The  shortest  passages  are  24  hours  ;  the 
longest  14  days.  In  the  dry  season  the  b;;st  rout  is  by  land,  to  San 
Carlos,  120  miles,  and  thence,  in  a  lerry  boat,  10  leagues  to  Buenos 
Ayres. 

A  most  important  overland  commerce  has  long  been  carried  on 
between  the  viceroyaities  of  Peiu  and  Buenos  Ayres.  The  route 
is  entirely  by  land,  and  crosses  the  ridges  of  the  Andes.  The  whole 
distance  on  thi-j  route,  from  Buenos  Ayres  to  Lima,  is  2822  geo^ 
graphical  miles. 

Manufactures  and  Coimnvrce.  The  exports  from  this  territory, 
between  1748  and  1753,  amounted  to  an  annual  average  of  gold,  in 
mgols,  S282,352  ;  silver,  coined  and  uncoined,  §700,000  ;  vicuna 
wool,  300  quintals,  §38,400  ;  and  150,000  hidts,  g600,000  ;  ii.  all 
81,620,752.  The  amount  of  gold  and  silver  received  by  Spain  from 
Jan.  1,  1754,  to  Jan.  1,  1765,  1 1  years,  was  gold  g2,142,626,  silver 
810,326,090,  in  all  812,468,716. 

'XhQ  following  is  a  summary  of  the  exports  and  imports  in  1789  : 
Exports, 
money.  goods.  total.         Imports. 

Spain  g3,982,005   Sl>076,87r  g5,058,882  g2,853,944 

Havanna  24,060         136,050  160,110  123,562 

Africa  159,820  24,703  184,523         337,500 

Lima  &  Guayaquil  67,150  67,150  60,154- 

Peru,  by  land,  >  i  170,190         864,790     2,034,980      2,034,980 

m  1789         5 

Large  droves  of  cattle  are  annually  sent  to  Peru  by  land,  and  not 
less  than  60,000  mules.  They  are  driven  by  easy  journeys  to  Sal- 
ta,  where  they  winter,  and  are  in  the  spring  delivered  at  Potosi. 
The  mules  cost  from  3  to  4  dollars,  and  nett  at  Potosi  8  or  10,  and 
ihe  cattle  3  or  4. 

About  40  vessels,  of  200  or  250  tons,  are  constantly  engaged  in 
a  contraband  trade  between  this  country  and  Brazil.  Salt,  sugar, 
earthen  ware,  and  British  and  German  goods,  are  received  from 
San  Pedro,  and  other  ports  in  Brazil,  at  Maldonado,  and  Monte 
Video  for  silver. 

The  commerce  with  the  United  States  is  valuable.  The  articles 
introduced  arc,  openly,  slaves,  and  various  kinds  of  goods  under 
cover.  The  trade  is  circuitous,  to  escape  the  penalties  ol  the  laws 
of  the  United  States.  The  vessel  originally  takes  a  cargo  for  Eu- 
rope, and  there  purchases  the  proper  articles  for  the  African  coast^ 
as  well  as  others  for  the  market  of  Buenos  Ayres.  After  the  slaveMp 
are  procured,  they  are  carried  to  the  two  ports  on  the  La  Plata; 
and,  while  an  cpen  trade  is  carried  on  for  the  slaves,  a  clandestine 
one  is  engaged  in  for  the  goods.  The  vessel,  loaded  with  hides, 
and  tallow,  and  having  a  large  quantity  of  silver  on  board,  returns 
^o  Europe,  The  hides  and  tallow  are  there  disposed  of  for  Eti- 
yopean  goods,  and  these  with  the  silver  are  carri'.d  to  America. 


BUENOS  AYRES.  S4& 

Climate.  The  country,  on  the  La  Plata  and  around  il:e  capha', 
enjoys  a  clhnate  equally  salubiious  and  pleasant,  and  ot"  ncaily  a 
uniform  temperature.  In  winter,  however,  thunder  and  lighmin'^ 
arc  not  uncommon,  and  the  rains  are  sometimes  ot"  long  continu- 
ance. Every  variety  of  temperature  occurs  in  the  interior  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  mountains. 

Face  of  the  Country.  At  the  southeastern  limit  of  the  viceroy- 
alty  there  is  a  ridjj;e  of  movmtains,  beginning  about  6  leagues  from 
the  coast,  and  running  W.  40  leagues.  At  no  great  distance  W. 
of  Butnos  Ayres,  commence  the  pampas,  an  innnense  sea  of  wav- 
ing grass,  nearly  a  perfect  level,  and  scaice  elevated  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  ocean.  Hence  they  extend  westward  to  the  Andes, 
about  700  miles.  Their  southern  limit  is  between  the  rivers  Negro 
and  the  Hueuque  Leuvu,  whence  they  extend  northward,  on  the 
La  Plata,  as  far  as  the  Saladillo.  The  eastern  and  greater  half  of 
the  bishopric  of  Tucuman,  and  the  province  of  Chaco,  are  also 
plains  of  considerable  extent  and  elevation.  The  diocese  of  Char- 
cas  is  chiefly  rough  and  mountainous  ;  while  the  greater  part  of 
the  province  of  Paraguay  is  a  wide  and  level  plain.  On  the  whole 
this  may  be  denominated  a  level  country. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  Near  the  Spanish  settlements,  where  tl)e 
pampas  have  been  tilled,  they  yield  excellent  corn  and  various  oth- 
er productions.  Elsewhere  they  are  covered  with  a  native  grass, 
which  feeds  unnumbered  millions  of  wild  cattle  and  horses. 
Scarcely  any  islands  of  wood  are  found  in  the  whole  extent.  The 
province  of  Tuyu,  except  the  narrow  border  near  the  coast  already 
mentioned,  has  a  soil  of  clay,  and  is  productive.  The  grass  is  high 
and  flourishing.  In  the  province  of  Buenos  Ayres,  along  the  La 
Plata,  the  soil  is  a  rich,  sandy  loam,  yielding  maize  and  wheat,  with- 
out manure.  This  is  true  of  the  country  around  Monte  Video.  Al- 
most all  the  interior  country  is  also  fertile,  and  susceptible  of  high 
cultivation,  except  the  deserts  among  the  mountains.  These  are 
chiefly  found  in  the  diocese  of  Charcas.  Agriculture  has  there 
been  greatly  neglected  ;  the  mines  having  long  been  the  chief  ob- 
ject of  attention. 

Rivers.  The  La  Plata  opens  into  the  ocean,  between  cape  St. 
Anthony  on  the  S  and  cape  Santa  Maria  on  the  N.  These  capes 
are  150  miles  apart.  Its  average  breadth  for  about  70  miles,  is 
120  miles.  A  little  below  Monte  Video  it  narrows  suddenly,  be- 
tween point  Carretas  on  the  N.  and  point  Piedras  on  the  S. ;  and  at 
that  city  is  only  80  miles  broad.  Thence  to  Buenos  Ayres,  180 
miles  from  its  mouth,  it  gradually  narrows,  and  is  theie  only  30 
miles  across.  It  retains  this  width  about  20  miles  further  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Uruguay.  The  Paraguay,  the  main  stream  of  the 
La  Plata,  has  heretofore  been  described.  The  Cuyaba,  its  princi- 
pal tributary  from  the  E.  rises  in  the  Brazilian  cordillera. 

The  Pilcomayo,  or  River  of  S/iarroivs,  is  th.e  largest  western 
branch  of  the  Para{i;uay.  It  rises  in  the  western  cordillera,  and  re- 
ceiving from  the  N.  W.  the  Araguay,  which  passes  between  Po- 
tosi  and  La  Plata,  runs  N.  of  E.  through  the  mountainous  country, 
^nd  into  the  plains  of  Chaco,  about  600  miles.  Here  bending  south- 


TioO  BUENOS  AYRES. 

ward,  it  runs  S.  E.  upwards  of  450,  falling  into  the  Paraguay,  by  g 
nioutiis,  more  than  50  miles  apart. 

The  Verniejo,  or  Red  river,  rises  in  Tarija,  a  mountainous  dis- 
trict, to  the  S.  of  Potosi.  In  length  and  size  it  is  not  greatly  it\fe- 
lior  to  the  Pilcomayo.  Its  current  is  very  gentle,  and  the  ascent, 
by  the  aid  of  regular  southern  breezes,  is  as  easy  as  its  descent. 
Few  rivers  are  equally  navigable. 

The  Parana  descends  from  the  mountains  of  Brazil.  Its  main 
stream,  the  Rio  Grande,  heads  in  the  mountainous  region  of  Mi- 
■neea  Gtraes,  and  running  N.  of  W.  a  great  distance,  is  enriched  by 
the  waters  of  the  Paraniaba,  a  large  stream  from  the  same  moun- 
tains. Here  the  Parana  turns  to  the  S.  W.  and  soon  after  to  the 
S.  by  W.  a  course,  which  it  continues  as  far  as  Trinidad.  Its  di- 
rection is  thence  W.  upwards  of  200  miles,  to  Corrientes.  Its 
length  and  size  are  little  inferior  to  those  of  the  Paraguay.  The 
Iguazu,  a  short  but  rapid  stream,  from  the  E.  falls  into  the  Parana 
in  lat.  25  30. 

The  Salado,  or  Salt  river,  is  the  largest  tributary  of  the  La  Plata, 
from  the  W.  It  rises  in  the  mountains  of  Tucuman,  and  runs  a 
southeasterly  course  of  850  or  900  miles,  emptying  its  waters  at 
nSanta  Fe,  in  lat-  3i  40. 

The  Uruguay  rises  in  the  eastern  part  of  Brazil.  Its  course  is 
S.  W.  and  S.  and  its  length  not  less  than  1200  miles.  The  quick 
accumulation  of  the  waters  from  the  mountain  torrents  renders  it 
extremely  rapid  ;  and  when  it  leaves  the  hilly  country,  it  attains  so 
great  a  breadth,  690  miles  from  its  mouth,  that  a  ten  oared  boat 
requires  half  an  hour  to  cross  it,  though  it  runs  there  with  a  mod- 
erate current.  On  the  whole  it  is  a  rocky  and  turbulent  stream  of 
difficult  navigation.  It  abounds  in  fish,  and  the  country  through 
which  it  passes,  is  romantic,  beautiful,  and  fertile. 

The  Mamor,  or  Rio  Grande,  and  the  Magdalena,  both  rise  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  mountains  of  Chiquitos.  in  the  extensive  province 
of  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  and  running  N.  W.  a  long  distance 
through  the  valley  of  the  Amazon,  at  length  unite  and  form  the 
Madeira,  the  great  southern  arm  of  the  Amazon,  and  the  largest 
tributary  stream  on  the  globe. 

Lakcd.  Lake  Titicaca  lies  between  the  two  cordilleras  of  the 
Andes,  in  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  viceroyalty.  Its  figure  is  irregu- 
lar, but  inclining  to  oval,  and  its  longest  diameter  is  from  S.  E.  to 
N.  W.  It  is  about  240  miles  in  circuit,  and  in  some  places  from 
70  to  SO  fathoms  deep.  It  is  navigated  by  ships,  but  is  subject 
to  storms  and  tremendous  gusts  of  wind,  descending  from  the 
^nountains. 

The  Desaguadero,  or  Drain  of  Titicaca,  runs  out  of  the  lake, 
and  tenninates  in  the  lake  of  Paria.  Over  the  drain  still  remains 
the  bridge  of  rushes,  from  80  to  100  yards  long,  which  Capac  Yu- 
panqui,  the  fifth  inca,  constructed  for  the  transportation  of  liis  ar- 
my, in  order  to  subdue  the  provinces  of  Coilasuyo. 

The  lake  of  Paria  is  of  considerable  size,  and  has  no  visible  oitH 
let ;  it  abounds  with  eddies,  and  whirlpools. 


CHILI.  SM 

The  lake  of Tberi,  or  Caracavas,  lies  between  28°  and  30°  S.  lat. 
E.  of  the  La  Plata,  and  S.  of  the  Parana.  It  is  of  an  irregular  fig- 
ure, upwards  of  100  miles  in  length,  and  40  in  bteadth. 

Mountains.  The  Andes  skirt  the  viceroyalty  on  the  W.  and 
have  heretofore  been  described.  In  the  province  of  Charcas,  nu- 
merous smaller  ridges  lie  E.  of  the  principal  chain,  forming  suc- 
cessive stops  to  the  plains  below. 

The  chain  of  mountains,  called  by  Humbolt,  the  c/iain  of  Chi' 
guitos,  parts  from  the  Andes  about  the  latitude  of  19°  S.  ;  and  pur- 
sues, for  a  great  distance,  an  eastward  course,  a  little  N.  ol  Potosi, 
and  La  Plata. 

Mineralogy.     The  following  table  of  the  mines  of  every  descrip- 
tion, in  actual  operation  in  this  viceroyalty,  is  taken  from  Wilcockc, 
•who  obtained  it  from  Helms  : 
Mines  of  Gold.       Silver.        Copper.        Tin.        Lead.        Total. 

30  2r  7  2  7  73 

These  are  scattered  through  24  mining  districts. 

The  mines  of  Porco  were  those  from  Wsich  the  Pciuviaiis  drew 
most  of  the  silver,  which  embellished  their  palaces  and  temples. 
That  of  Potosi,  the  richest  that  ever  was  known,  ex-  <jpt  one  iu 
Mexico,  was  discovered  by  accident.  An  Indian,  named  Hualpa, 
in  1545,  pursuing  some  mountain  goats,  and  climbing  up  the  rocks, 
laid  hold  of  a  small  shrub  to  support  himself.  The  roots  gave  way, 
and  laid  open  to  his  view  a  mass  of  pure  silver.  It  was  in  a  moun- 
tain of  a  conical  shape,  almost  18  miles  in  circumference,  at  the 
base,  chiefly  composed  of  a  yellow,  argillaceous  slate,  full  of  veins 
of  ferruginous  quartz,  and  with  a  soil  naturally  dry,  cold,  and  bar- 
ren. Some  of  the  mines  in  it  have  been  sunk  to  tiie  depth  of  200 
fathoms.  Altogether  about  300  mines  are  sunk  in  the  mountain. 
It  is  now  extensively  undermined,  the  rock  has  been  opened  at  the 
bottom,  and  galleries  dug  horizontally  to  meet  the  venis  of  silver. 
Previous  to  the  year  1638,  or  in  the  first  93  years  in  which  (hcv 
■were  wrought,  the  king's  fifth  of  the  silver  produced  and  register- 
ed from  the  mines  of  Potosi,  according  to  the  public  accounts,  had 
amounted  to  §395,619,000,  or  §4,253,967  per  annum,  for  the  aver- 
age produce.  The  sums  clandestinely  taken  away,  or  converted 
into  the  utensils  and  ornaments  of  churches  and  convents,  cannot 
be  calculated.  The  produce  has  gradually  decreased.  The 
amount  of  gold  coined  at  Potosi,  in  1790,  was  g293,846,  and  of  sil- 
ver 82,983,176. 


CHILL 

Extent.  THE  northern  limit  of  Chili,  on  the  coast,  is  Port  Jun- 
cal,  in  lat.  25°  S.  Its  southern  limit  is  Fort  Moulin,  in  lat.  41  4'^ 
S.  on  the  north  shore  of  the  archipelago  of  Caiioe.  Its  lenp-th 
from  N.  to  S.  is  1 150  miles.  Between  tiie  25th  and  32d  degrees. 
of  latitude  it  i§  243  miic-s  in  breadth  ;  from  the  32d  to  the  sVth  ir. 


352  CHILI. 

js  140 ;  and  in  the  broadest  part,  near  the  archipelago  of  Chiloe,  it 
is  about  370.     It  is  situated  between  Ion.  70°  atid  76  40  W. 

To  this  must  be  added  the  province  of  Cuyo,  or  Cujo,  lying  east 
of  the  Andes,  which  is  406  miles  in  length,  from  E.  to  W.  and  402 
ill  breadth  from  N.  to  S.  and  is  situated  between  lat.  29°  and  35°  S. 
containing  163,000  square  miles. 

Boundaries.  Chili  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  desert  of  Ataca- 
ma,  in  Buenos  Ayres,  which  separates  it  from  Peru  ;  on  the  E.  bv 
the  cofcHllera  of  the  Andes,  which  separates  it  from  Buenos  Ayres  ; 
on  the  S-  by  the  archipelago  of  Chiloe  ;  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Pa- 
cific ocean. 

Or'r^mal  Po/iulalion.  It  is  highly  probable  that  Chili,  exclusive 
of  Cujo,  was  originally  peopli.'d  by  one  nation  ;  for  all  the  aborigines 
spoke  the  same  language,  and  were  of  a  similar  appearance.  They 
were  divided  into  15  in  lependent  tribes. 

Historical  Efiochs.  We  know  nothing  of  the  Chilians  before  the 
middle  of  the  15lh  century.  Yupanqui,  the  inca  of  Peru,  invaded 
Chili,  in  1450,  subdued  the  four  northern  tribes,  and  extended  his 
conquests  to  the  river  Rapel,  in  lat.  34°  S.  The  Promaucians,  who 
lived  S  of  that  river,  defeated  his  army  with  great  slaughter,  and 
compelled  him  to  retreat.  The  conquered  tribes  paid  him  tribute  ; 
but  retained  their  own  form  of  government. 

In  1535  Diego  Almagro,  a  Spaniard,  the  companion  of  Pizarro, 
invaded  Chili  with  570  of  his  countrymen  and  15,000  Peruvians,  by 
the  road  which  leads  over  the  Andes.  Of  the  Spaniards  150,  and 
10,000  of  the  Peruvians  perished  on  the  mountains  from  severity  of 
weather.  The  remainder,  after  experiencing  a  variety  of  fortune, 
advanced  into  the  country  of  the  Pronjauciar.s,  where  they  met 
such  a  reception,  as  to  induce  them  to  abandon  their  enterprize,  and 
retreat  to  Peru.  In  1540  Chili  was  again  invaded  by  the  Span- 
iards, under  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  the  quartermaster  of  Pizarro.  He 
met  with  varicnis  repulses  from  the  northern  tribes  ;  but  at  length 
penetrated  to  the  river  Mapocho,  a  branch  of  the  Maypo,  on  which 
lie  founded  the  capital.  He  afterwards  advanced  into  the  country 
of  the  Arauranians,  and  founded  therein  the  cities  of  Imperial,  Vil- 
larica,  Valdivia,  and  Angol  ;  but,  in  December,  1553,  his  army 
was  routed,  and  their  general  taken  and  afterwards  slain.  From 
that  period  to  the  year  1773  the  Spaniards  carried  on  many  wars 
with  that  valiant  nation,  without  beins^  able  to  subdue  them.  ^  In  the 
last  of  these,  which  was  concluded  by  a  most  terrible  battle  in  1 77 o, 
they  expended  1,700,000  dollars  out  of  the  royal  treasury.  The 
Araucanians  arc  now  absolutely  independent,  and  keep  a  resident 
minister  at  St.  Jago. 

In  1587  tlie  English,  under  sir  Thomas  Cavendish,  landed  at  the 
desert  port  of  St.  Quintero,  but  were  soou  cotripelled  to  leave  the 
country. 

The  Dutch  met  with  similar  defeat  in  1638. 

Religion.  Chili  is  divided  into  two  dioc«ses,  the  bishops  of 
which  are  suffragans  to  the  archbishop  of  Lima.  The  diocese  of 
St.  Jago  extends  from  Peru  to  the  river  Maule,  and  includes  the 
province  of  Cujo.     The  diocese  of  Conception  comprehends  the 


CHILI.  853 

rest  of  Chili,  with  tlie  islands,  though  a  great  proportion  of  the 
inhabitants  are  Pagans.  There  is  a  court  of  inquisition  at  St. 
Jap^o. 

The  religious  system  of  the  Araucanians  is  simple,  and  well 
adapted  to  their  free  mode  of  thinking  and  living.  They  believe 
in  a  Supreme  Being,  whom  they  call  Pillan,  which  signifies  the 
Supreme  Essence.  They  call  him  also  the  Spirit  of  Heaven,  the 
Great  Being,  the  Thunderer,  the  Omnipotent)  the  Eternal,  the  In- 
finite, and  the  Creator  of  all. 

Government.  Chili  is  a  province  of  Spain.  It  is  governed  by 
an  officer  who  combines  the  titles  of  president,  governor,  aiid  cap- 
taingeneral  of  the  kingdom  of  Chili.  He  resides  at  St.  Jago,  and  is 
solely  dependent  on  the  king,  except  in  case  of  war,  v/htn  in  cer- 
tain points  he  is  under  the  direction  of  the  viceroy  of  Peru.  He 
commands  the  army,  and  appoints  the  chief  officeis  of  the  country. 
The  Spanish  part  of  Chili  lies  principally  between  the  river  Bio- 
bio,  in  lat.  36  30,  and  the  conlines  of  Peru,  and,  including  Valdivia, 
in  the  country  of  the  Araucanians,  is  divided  into  15  provinces. 

These  provinces  are  governed  by  prefects.  In  the  capital  of 
each  there  is  a  municipal  magistracy,  called  the  cabildo,  which 
has  original  jurisdiction,  in  causes  both  of  a  civil  and  criminal  na- 
ture. 

The  government  of  the  Araucanians  is  a  species  of  aristocracy. 
Their  country  lies  between  the  rivers  Biobio  and  Valdivia,  extend- 
ing from  lat.  36  44  to  39  50  S.  is  480  miles  long,  from  east  to  west, 
and  210  broad,  and  contains  78,120  square  miles.  It  is  divided 
from  north  to  south,  into  four  parallel  tetrarchies.  These  tetrar- 
chies  are  independent  of  each  other,  but  confederated  for  the  pub- 
lic welfare.  They  are  governed  each  of  them  by  a  magistrate 
called  a  tocjui  ;  who  possesses  but  the  shadow  of  sovereign  author- 
ity. The  provinces  are  governed  by  officers  called  afio-ulmenea^ 
and  the  counties  by  those  called  ulmcnes.  All  these  dignities  are 
hereditary  in  the  male  line,  and  proceed  in  the  order  of  primogeni- 
ture. Every  important  national  question  is  determined  by  a  gen- 
eral diet  or  council.  In  time  of  war,  the  diet  elects  the  general^ 
and  during  his  continuance  in  office,  the  toquis  and  all  other  civil 
officers  are  divested  of  their  authority.  The  laws  of  the  Araucani- 
ans are  few  in  number.  Treason,  murder,  adultery,  robbery,  and 
■witchcraft,  are  punished  with  death.  Inferior  crimes  are  punished 
by  retaliation. 

Pofudation.  Very  little  is  known  of  the  present  amount  of  the 
population  of  Chili.  In  1778,  there  were  not  more  than  80,000 
■white  inhabitants,  and  about  240,000  negroes,  and  those  of  a  mix- 
ed race.  Since  that  period,  in  consequence  of  the  privileges  which 
commerce  has  received,  they  have  rapidly  increased.  It  will  be 
observed  that  the  aborigines  of  Chili  arc  not  included  in  this  es- 
timate. 

Army.     In  1792  the  number  of  veteran  troops  in  Chili  was  1796 
men,  consisting  of  two  companies  of  artillery,  nine  of  horse,  and 
the  rest  infantry.     The  regular  militia  at  the  same  period  amount- 
ed to  15,856  men.     Beside  these,  are  many  city  militias  comminrj- 
4'; 


354  CHILI. 

ed  by  missionaries.     The  Araucanian  army  in  time  of  war  usually* 
amounts  to  5  or  6000,  exclusive  of  a  body  of  reserve. 

Revenue.  One  fifth  of  the  gold  yielded  by  the  mines,  amount- 
ing to  800,000  dollars,  is  annually  paid  into  the  royal  treasury. 

Manners  and  Custo7ns.  The  inhabitants  are  luxurious  in  their 
mode  of  livinf!^.  The  men  dress  in  the  French,  the  women  in  the 
Peruvian  fashion.     The  peasantry  dress  like  the  Araucanians. 

The  Araucanian  dress  is  made  of  wool,  and  consists  of  a  shirt,  a 
vest,  a  pair  of  short  close  breeches,  and  a  very  convenient  cloak, 
opening^  in  the  m^idd4e  for  the  head.  Marriage  is  with  them  an 
amicable  kind  of  rape.  The  bridegroom,  with  the  assistance  o& 
the  bride's  father,  seizes  unexpectedly  on  the  bride,  and  carries  her 
off,  while  she  affects  to  call  for  assistance.  Polygamy  is  universal. 
Their  women  are  scrupulously  neat  in  their  houses  and  persons. 
Bathing  is  universally  practised  both  by  men  and  women.  They 
bury  their  dead  the  third  day  after  death,  covering  them  with  earth 
or  stones  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid.  The  corpse,  if  a  man,  is  sur- 
rounded with  his  arms  ;  if  a  woman,  with  a  plenty  of  provisions, 
and  her  ornaments. 

J^anguage.  That  of  the  whites  is  Spanish. 
The  natives,  except  those  of  Gujo,  have  but  one  language 
throughout  the  whole  coimtry,  the  islanders  and  the  mountaineersy 
those  in  the  24th  and  those  in  the  45th  degrees  of  latitude.  This, 
considered  as  the  language  of  a  barbarous  nation,  is  singularly-rich, 
flexible,  meledious,  and  regular.  It  has  also  great  precision  and 
strength.  Its  alphabet  has  all  the  proper  letters  of  the  Latin,  to- 
gether with  the  ^/  of  the  French,  and  the  e  mute,  the  nasal  g^  the 
ch  and  the  th  of  the  English.  It  has  no  guttural  letters  and  no  vo- 
cal aspirate.     The  accent  usually  falls  on  the  penultimate  vowel. 

Its  syntax  is  like  that  of  the  modern  European  languages,  ex- 
cept that  it  will  admit  of  greater  involutions  in  the  arrangement  of 
-\vords. 

Literature.  The  Spaniards  in  Chili  have  made  but  little  pro- 
grass  in  the  cultivation  of  the  sciences. 

Few  barbarous  nations  have  made  as  great  advances  in  science^ 
as  the  Ara;icanians  had  made  at  the  lime  of  the  &st  Spanish  inva- 
sion. 

Universities.  There  is  a  royal  university  at  St.  Jago. 
Cities  and  l^otvns.  St.  Jago  is  the  capital.  It  ife  situated  in  lat. 
33  31  S.  and  in  Ion.  69  35  W.  90  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  2  3. 
from  the  Andes.  It  stands  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Mapacho, 
in  a  delightful  plain,  of  72  miles  in  extent.  The  city'  is  about  10 
furlongs  in  length,  and  5  in  breadth.  A  mountain,  called  St.  Lu- 
cie, stands  almost  contiguous  to  the  houses  on  the  E.  The  streets, 
like  those  of  all  the  other  cities  and  villages  of  Chili,  are  straight 
and  intersected  at  right  angles.  They  are  paved,  and  are  36  feet 
in  breadth.  St.  Jago  contained,  in  1776,  46,000  inhabitants,  and 
since  that  period  their  number  has  very  much  increased.  The 
private  houses  are  handsome  and  pleasant,  usually  af  one  story. 
This  is  true  of  all  the  towns  in  Chili.  There  are  II  cwivents,  7 
nunneries,  4  parochial  churches,  3  hospitals,  a  royal  university,  ? 


CHILI.  S55 

•^raint,  and  barracks  fop  the  soldiers  in  St.  Jago.  The  building  of 
Uhis  town  commenced  in  1541. 

CoNCKPTioN,  in  the  province  of  Puchacay,  is  the  second  city  in 
rank  in  Chili.  It  lies  in  lat.  36  43  S.  and,  in  1776,  it  contained 
13,000  inhabitants. 

Valpauaiso,  the  port  of  St.  Jago,  and  the  most  commercial  city 
in  Chili,  lies  in  lat.  53  3,  and  in  Ion.  7T  29  W.  The  harbor  is 
capacious,  and  so  deep  that  ships  of  the  largest  size  can  lie  close  to 
the  shore.  Its  convenience  for  traffic,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  at- 
inosphere,  have  rendered  it  populous.  It  has  a  parish  church  and 
several  convents  of  monks.     It  lies  in  the  province  of  Quillota. 

Valdivia,  or  Boldivia,  in  lat.  39  58  S.  and  Ion.  73  20  W.  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  populous  cities  in  Chili.  Its  harbor  is 
the  safest,  the  strongest  by  nature  and  art,  and  the  most  capacious 
of  any  on  the  we-stern  coast  of  Airierica.  The  city  is-9  miles  from 
the  sea,  on  a  river  of  the  same  name. 

Mendoza,  the  capital  of  Cujo,  is  situated  on  a  plain  at  the  foot 
of  the  Andes,  in  lat.  33  19  S.  It  contained,  in  1776,  6000  inhabit- 
ants, several  convents,  and  a  parish  church.  This  city  carries  on  a 
considerable  commerce  in  wine  and  fruits  with  Buenos  Ayres,  and 
,'its  population  is  centinualiy  increasing  from  its  vicinity  to  the  fa- 
mous silver  mine  of  Uspallata,  which  the  inhabitants  work  to  great 
profit. 

St.  Juan,  which  is  45  leagues  from  Mendoza,  is  also  situated 
near  the  Andes,  in  lat.  31  4  S.  Its  population,  in  1776,  was  6OOO0 
it  trades  v/ith  Buenos  Ayres  in  brandy,  fruits,  and  vicuna  skins. 

Castro  and  Chacao  are  situated  in  the  island  of  Chiloe,  and 
.are  considerable  for  their  size  and  commerce.  The  island  of  Chi- 
-.loe  is  populous. 

Roads.  Two  roads  l»ad  from  Peru  to  Chili ;  one  by  the  sea 
•  coast,  which  is  destitute  of  water  and  provisions,  the  other  by  the 
mountains.  This  last,  for  the  distance  of  120  miles,  passes  over 
the  Andes. 

There  are  S  or  9  roads  whicli  cross  the  Andes.  The  best  of 
these  is  that  whicli  passes  from  Aconcagua,  through  Mendoza,  to 
the  little  town  of  St.  Luis,  and  thence  to  Buenos  Ayres.  The 
mountains  cannot  be  crossed  in  less  than  8  days,  and  the  road  is  so 
steep  and  narrow,  that,  in  many  places,  travellers  are  obliged  to 
quit  iheir  mules,  the  only  animals  that  can  be  employed,  and  pre- 
ceed  on  foot. 

Manufactures  and  Coimne7-ce.  The  commerce  of  Chili  with  Pe- 
ru employs  23  or  24  ships  of  from  5  to  600  tons  each,  and  in  return 
for  the  grain,  wine,  fruits,  provisions,  tallow,  leatbez",  wood,  a«d 
copper  sent  to  Peru,  it  receives  iron,  clvtli,  and  linen,  made  at  Qui- 
to, hats,  baize,  of  which  there  are  aho  manufactures  in  Chili,  su- 
gar, cacao,  sv/eetmcats,  tobacco,  oil,  earthen  ware,  and  all  kinds  of 
European  goods. 

It  receives  from  Paraguay  the  Paraguay  herb,  tobacco,  wax,  and 
tallow.  In  exchange  for  these  commodities.  Chili  sends  to  Buenos 
Ayres  linen,  woollen  stuffs  of  its  own  manufacturing,  sugar,  snuff, 
MV?/ine  and  branciv. 


856  CHILI. 

In  return  for  European  goods  Chili  sends  to  Spain,  by  the  way  of 
Buenos  Ayres,  gold,  silver,  copper,  vicuna  wool,  and  dressed 
leather.  The  gold  remitted  amounts  annually  to  656,000  dollars  ;* 
the  silver  to  244,000  ;  the  copper  to  10,000  quintals.  The  amount 
pf  European  goods  annually  sent  to  Chili  is  more  than  a  million  of 
dollars. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  The  climate  of  Chili  is  remarkably  sa- 
lubrious. Contagious  diseases  were  not  known  before  the  intro- 
duction of  the  small  pox  by  the  Spaniards. 

The  seasons  of  Chili  are  divided  into  rainy  and  dry.  The  rainy 
season  commences  in  March  or  April,  and  continues  till  the  last 
of  August.  From  September  to  March  they  enjoy  an  almost  un- 
interrupted succession  of  fine  weather.  In  the  northern  provinces, 
however,  it  rarely  rains,  even  in  the  rainy  season  ;  in  the  midland 
ones,  during  that  period,  it  usually  rains  but  3  or  4  days  in  succes- 
sion, and  the  pleasant  weather  continues  15  or  20.  In  the  south- 
ern the  rains  are  much  more  frequent,  and  often  continue  10  days 
without  intermission. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  mai'itime  country  is  intersected  by  3 
chains  of  mountains,  running  parallel  to  the  Andes,  between  which 
are  numerous  valleys,  watered  by  delightful  rivers.  The  midland 
country  is  almost  fiat  ;  a  few  isolated  hills  only  arc  to  be  seen. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  of  Chili  is  wonderfully  fertile. 
The  maritime  districts,  however,  are  less  productive  than  the  mid- 
land, and  these  less  than  the  valleys  of  the  Andes. 

That  portion  of  the  Andes,  which  is  between  lat.  24°  and  33°  is 
ivholly  desert.     The  remainder  is  inhabited  by  the  Aborigines. 

Bivers.  Few  countries  arc  so  well  watered  as  Chili.  Lying  at 
the  foot  of  the  Andes  it  naturally  receives  the  waters  produced  by 
the  melting  of  that  immense  body  of  snow,  which  annually  falls  upr 
on  those  mountains.  There  are  123  rivers  of  considerable  size  in 
the  country,  which  run  westward.  Of  these  52  fall  directly  into 
the  ocean.  The  course  of  all  these  is  necessarily  short,  yet  8  of 
them  are  navigable  at  least  half  their  distance  for  ships  of  the  line. 
There  are  three  rivers  in  Cujo,  the  St.  Juan,  the  Mendoza,  and  the 
Tuniyan.  The  two  first,  after  a  course  of  about  90  miles,  fall  into 
the  lakes  of  Guanasachc,  and  at  length,  through  a  channel  which 
receives  the  Tuniyan,  lose  thejnselves  in  the  Pampas.  The  Ma- 
pocho,  on  which  St.  Jago  is  situated,  runs  five  miles  under  ground. 
Lakes.  There  are  three  salt  lakes  in  Chiii,  near  tb.e  coast,  each 
about  20  miles  in  length.  Of  the  fresh  water  lakes,  in  the  interi- 
or, the  largest  is  the  Laquen,  in  the  country  of  the  Araucanians,  80 
miles  in  circumference. 

Sea.  The  archipelago  of  Chiloe,  near  the  southern  extremity  of 
Chili,  is  upwards  of  200  miles  in  length,  and  about  100  in  breadth. 
It  has  two  communications  with  the  ocean.  That  N.  of  the  island 
of  Chiloe  is  only  3  miles  wide.     The  other  is  36. 

*  This  is  beside  the  gold  annually  yielded  to  the  royal  treasury,  by  the  mipes., 
which  amounts  to  800,000  dollare.  '  ■ 


CHILI.  3ST 

Islands.  There  are  82  islands  in  the  archipelago  of  Chiloc.  Of 
these  32  are  inhabited  by  Indians  or  Spaniards.  The  largest  is 
Chiloe,  180  miles  in  length,  60  in  breadth.  The  timber  found  on 
it  is  excellent  for  ship  building. 

The  island  of  Mocha,  in  lat.  39°  S.  is  handsome  and  fertile,  and 
about  70  miles  in  circumference.  The  Spaniards  have  deserted  it. 
The  two  islands  of  Juan  Fernandez  are  in  lat.  53^  S.  and  be- 
tween Ion.  83°  and  84°  W.  The  easternmost,  called  Terra,  5  2 
miles  long  and  3  broad,  is  330  miles  W.  of  the  coast  of  Chili.  It 
is  mountainous,  and  produces  the  sandal  ■wood,  the  yellow  wood, 
and  a  species  of  palm.  It  contains  an  astonishing  number  of  goats, 
the  descendants  of  ihose  carried  thither  by  its  discoverer,  Juan 
Fernandez.  The  other  island,  called  Massa  Fuera,  is  3  miles  iu 
length,  and  400  miles  W.  of  Chili.  It  is  a  high,  steep  mountain, 
without  a  harbor,  and  without  an  inhabitant.  The  coasts  of  both 
these  islands  abound  in  fish  of  an  excellent  quality. 

Mountains  and  FolcaJioes.  That  part  of  the  Andes  which  ap- 
pertains to  Chili  is  about  140  miles  in  breadth.  Naturalists  assert, 
that  these  mountains  are  more  than  20,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  ocean. 

There  are  14  volcanoes  in  Chili,  which  are  in  a  constant  state  of 
eruption,  and  a  still  greater  number  that  discharge  smoke  only  at 
intervals.  They  all,  two  excepted,  lie  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the 
Andes  from  E.  to  W. 

Mineralogy.  Gold  is  the  most  abundant  metal,  and  is  found  ia 
the  sands  of  the  plains,  in  the  sands  of  the  brooks  and  rivers,  and  to 
a  greater  or  less  degree  in  almost  every  mountain  and  hill.  The 
gold  dug  out  of  the  mines,  one  fifth  of  which  is  paid  into  the  royal 
treasury,  amounts  to  4,000,000  of  dollars  annually,  beside  what  is 
smuggled,  which  is  very  considerable.  The  quantity  washed  from 
the  sands  is  also  very  great,  and  of  a  better  color  and  finer  stand- 
ard than  the  other. 

Most  of  the  rich  copper  mines  lie  N.  of  the  36th  degree  of  lati- 
tude. They  are  found  on  the  plains  as  well  as  on  the  mountains, 
and  are  so  abundant  that  none  are  wrought  but  such  as  yield  at 
least  half  of  the  weight  of  the  ore  in  refined  copper.  More  than 
1000  mines  were  worked  in  1787,  between  the  cities  of  Copiapo 
and  Coquimbo.  More  than  120,000  quintals  of  copper  are  annual- 
ly shipped  to  Spain,  and  at  least  30,000  quintals  to  Peru,  beside  a 
large  quantity  sent  to  Buenos  Ayres  by  land,  and  a  still  larger 
quantity  made  use  of  in  Chili,  in  the  cannon  founderies,  and  for  do- 
mestic purposes. 

Iron  is  very  abundant  in  Chili.  The  mines  of  lead  are  numerous 
and  rich,  hut  almost  entirely  neglected.  Quicksilver  is  very  abun- 
dant.    Antimony  is  found  in  considerable  quantities. 

Pyrites  of  almost  every  description  are  scattered  over  the  whole 
country.  White  and  red  naphtha,  petroleum,  asphaltos,  and  two 
kinds  of  mineral  pitch,  are  found  in  many  places  on  the  mountains. 
Jet  is  very  plentiful  in  Araucania,  and  pitcoal  near  the  city  of  Con- 
ception, as  well  as  in  various  other  parts  of  Chili,  Ambergris  and 
a,mber  are  not  unfrequcnt  on  the  shores.     Fossil  salt  is  found  in 


S£8  PATAGONIA. 

great  quantities  in  the  Andes  of  Coquimbo  and  Copiapo.  In  aval- 
ley  of  the  Andes,  in  lat.  34  40,  lie  the  salt  springs  of  Pehuenches. 
They  are  1 1  in  number.  The  water,  as  it  overflows,  becomes  crys- 
tallized into  pure  salt,  as  white  as  snow.  The  valley  is  15  miles  in 
circumference,  and  is  covered  to  the  depth  of  6  feet,  with  a  crust  of 
salt,  which  the  inhabitants  use  for  all  domestic  purposes.  Most  of 
the  midland  districts  are  supplied  from  this  source.  The  maritime 
districts  are  supplied  witli  sea  salt,  which  is  manufactured  in  great 
quantities  on  the  shores. 

Sal  ammoniac,  saltpetre,  and  alum  are  abundant. 

Slate,  talc,  asbestos,  and  mica ;  limestone,  marble,  calcareous 
spars,  and  gypsum  ;  the  whetstone,  the  grindstone,  the  freestone, 
flint,  quartz,  rock  crystal,  jasper,  the  amethyst,  the  turquoise,  por- 
phyry, and  granite,  are  among  the  common  stones  of  Chili.  The 
topaz  and  the  emerald  have  been  found  there. 


PATiVGONIA. 

Extent.  CAPE  LOBOS,  in  lat.  37  30  S.  is  the  most  northern 
limit  on  the  Atlantic,  On  the  Pacific,  Patagonia  includes  all  the 
continent  S.  of  fort  MauUin  in  lat.  41  43.  On  the  E.  of  the  Andes 
of  Chili,  however,  it  extends  northward,  as  far  as  the  sources  of  the 
Colorado  and  Negro,  near  lat.  35°  S.  Its  greatest  length,  from  N. 
to  S.  is  not  less  than  1300  miles.  On  the  Atlantic,  it  has  about 
1100  miles  of  sea  coast,  and  on  the  Pacific,  800.  The  breadth, 
from  cape  Lobos  to  the  Andes,  is  700  miles ;  but  the  average 
breadth  does  not  exceed  450.  Almost  the  whole  of  the  immense 
plains,  called  the  Pampas.,  described  under  the  article  Buenos 
Ayres,  are  still  in  possession  of  the  natives  ;  as  are  all  the  Andes 
S.  of  Cujo. 

Boiuidaries.  On  the  N.  lies  Buenos  Ayres  ;  on  the  E.  the  At- 
lantic ;  on  the  S.  the  straits  of  Magellan ;  and  on  the  W.  the  Pa- 
cific and  Araucania. 

Rivers.  The  large  rivers  of  this  country  all  run  from  the  Andes 
eastward. 

The  Hucyquc,  is  formed  in  the  plains  between  the  mountains  of 
Achala  and  Yacanto.  It  is  of  considerable  size,  is  in  general  shal- 
low and  fordable,  but  is  sometimes  greatly  swelled  by  the  floods. 
Its  course  is  S.  and  S.  E.  through  the  Pampas,  to  the  ocean ;  into 
which  it  falls  by  two  openings. 

The  Colorado  is  the  largest  river,  except  the  Negro,  in  Patago- 
nia. It  is  formed  by  numerous  streams,  which  issue  from  the  E. 
bide  of  the  Andes,  almost  as  far  N.  as  the  volcano  of  Chuapa.  Tak- 
ing a  S.  direction,  it  passes  with  a  deep  and  i-apid  current,  within 
about  30  miles  of  San  Juan  de  Frontera.  After  receiving  a  small 
river,  which  washes  that  town,  it  is  swallowed  up  in  the  lakes  of 
Guanacache  ;  which  also  receive  the  Tanuya,  a  pretty  large  river 
from  the  S. ;  a  branch  of  which,  the  Fordllio,  runs  by  Mendoza. 
The  country  S.  E,  of  these  lakes  is  an  extensive  marsh,  in  Avhich 


PATAGONIA.  S5« 

ihe  streams  are  for  a  while  lost.  But  they  break  out,  a  few  leagues 
distant,  in  an  immense  number  of  rivulets  ;  which,  uniting,  form  a 
large  river,  called  by  the  Picunches,  Huaranca  Leuvu^  or  a  thou- 
sand rivers  ;  by  the  Pehuenches,  Cu7n  Leuvu^  or  Red  river  ;  and 
by  the  Spaniards,  Co/orarfo.  Its  course  is  now  S.  E  and  continues 
through  the  marshy  country  ;  which  is  not  less  than  170  miles  in 
breadth,  and  is  completely  overflowed  in  the  rainy  season.  It  pre- 
serves this  course  till  it  approaches  within  30  or  40  miles  of  the 
Negro,  when  it  turns  due  E.  for  150  miles.  It  then  turns  again  to 
the  S.  E.  and  continues  that  direction  to  the  sea  ;  falling  into  Ba- 
hia  A-negada,  which  is  very  shallow,  and  full  of  sandbanks.  In  this 
bay  a  Spanish  vessel  was  lost  early  in  the  last  century.  The  crew 
saved  themselves  in  their  boats  ;  and  proceeding  in  them  up  the 
river,  at  length  arrived  at  Mendoza. 

Rio  JVegro.)  the  Cusu  Leuvu,  or  Black  river  oi  xXiQ  Indians,  issues 
also  from  the  eastern  side  of  the  Cordillera,  N.  of  the  latitude  of 
Valdivia.  Some  distance  before  it  terminates  in  the  sea,  the  river 
makes  a  large  sweep,  forming  a  peninsula  18  miles  in  diameter,  the 
isthmus  of  which  is  only  3  miles  across.  The  Negro,  with  its 
branches,  serves  as  a  drain  to  the  Andes,  for  upwards  of  600  miles. 
It  is  a  broad,  deep,  and  rapid  river,  liable  to  sudden  and  violent  in- 
undations. 

JVaCive  Tribes.  The  aborigines  distinguish  the  various  tribes  by 
two  denominations,  Moluches,  or  warriors  ;  and  Puelcpies,  or 
eastern  fieofile. 

The  MotucHES  occupy  the  country  W.  of  the  Andes,  and  S.  of 
the  bay  of  Chiloe. 

The  PuELCHEs  reach  from  the  territories  of  the  Moluches  to 
the  Atlantic,  and  constitute  four  tribes. 

The  Tehuelhets^i  one  of  these  tribes,  are  the  nation  known  in  Eu- 
rope by  the  appellation  of  Patagons  ;  and  are  split  into  many  sub- 
divisions. A  principal  tri!)e  has  a  town  called  Huechin,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Negro,  the  caciques  of  which  have  great  influence  oa 
the  surrounding  tribes.  The  Tehuelhets  are  a  restless  and  roving 
people,  whom  neither  extreme  old  age,  nor  blindness,  nor  disease, 
prevent  from  indulging  in  their  wandering  inclinations.  They  are 
very  strong,  well  made,  and  not  so  tawny  as  the  other  Indians. 
They  are  courteous,  obliging,  and  goodnatured,  but  very  inconstant..- 
They  are  warlike  and  intrepid,  and  the  most  numerous  of  all  the  In- 
dian nations  in  these  parts.  They  are  the  enemies  of  the  Moluches,- 
and  very  much  feared  by  them.  They  speak  a  difl'erent  language 
from  the  other  Puelches  and  the  Moluches.  They  are  a  large  race, 
some  are  seven  feet  and  a  half  in  height,  but  these,  it  is  asserted5,> 
are  not  a  distinct  race,  as  others  in  the  same  family  do  not  exceed 
six-feet. 


J60  AMERICAN  ISLANDS. 


AMERICAN  ISLANDS. 

IN  the  progress  of  our  work  we  have  had  occasion  to  give  an 
account  of  the  islands  connected  with  the  Western  Continent,  ex- 
cept the  Bermudas,  the  Falkland  islands,  Terra  del  Fuego,  and 
Southern  Georgia. 

BERMUDAS,  OR  SOMERS'  ISLANDS. 

These  are  a  cluster  of  small  and  rocky  islands  forming  the  figure 
of  a  shepherd's  crook,  about  400  in  number.  They  lie  in  the  At- 
lantic, in  lat.  32  20  N.  and  Ion.  64  30  W.  about  200  leagues  E.  of 
Carolina.  The  great  body  of  them  are  mere  islets  and  rocks,  of 
too  little  consequence  to  have  received  a  name. 

The  group  derived  its  first  name  from  John  Bermudas,  a  Span- 
iard, who  discovered  it  in  1527  ;  ancl  their  second  from  sir  George 
Somers,  who  was  shipwrecked  on  the  rocks  in  his  passage  to  Vir- 
ginia, in  1609,  and  lived  there  9  months.  By  a  mistake  in  the 
sound  of  this  latter  name  they  have  often  been  called  Summer  isl- 
ands. 

By  the  third  charter  of  Virginia,  granted  in  1612,  all  islands 
v;ithin  300  leagues  of  the  coast  were  annexed  to  that  province.  The 
Virginia  company  sold  them  lo  120  of  its  own  members,  who  sent 
out,  the  same  year,  a  colony  of  60  persons,  and  another  of  540,  in 
1613. 

The  religion  is  that  of  the  church  of  England.  There  are  9 
Episcopal  churches,  under  the  care  of  3  clergymen,  and  I  Presby- 
terian church.  Tlie  government  is  vested  in  a  governor,  and  a 
council,  appointed  by  the  crown  ;  and  in  a  house  of  assembly,  chos- 
on  by  the  people.  The  number  of  whites,  in  1624,  was  about  3000. 
Edwards  states  the  population  at  5462  whites  and  4919  blacks,  to- 
tal 10,381. 

St.  George's,  the  capital,  in  the  island  of  the  same  name,  con- 
tains about  500  houses. 

The  islands  contain  from  12,000  to  15,000  acres  of  very  poor 
land,  of  which  9  parts  in  10  are  either  uncultivated  or  reserved  in 
woods  for  a  supply  of  timber  towards  building  small  ships,  sloops, 
and  shallops  for  sale,  this  being  one  principal  occupation  of  the  in- 
habitants. The  vessels  which  they  furnish,  being  built  of  cedar, 
arc  light,  buoyant,  and  unexpensive.  Maize  and  vegetables  were 
alone  cultivated,  till  1785,  when  cotton  was  introduced.  About  200 
acres  are  now  devoted  to  its  culture. 

TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 

Ttrra  del  Fuego,  or  the  land  of, /ire,  is  a  name  given  to  a  large 
island,  discovered  in  1520,  which  is  separated  from  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  American  continent  by  the  straits  of  Magellan. 
These  straits  are  about  350  miles  in  length,  and  in  some  places  sev- 
eral leagues  over,  and  in  others  not  half  a  league.     In  these  straits 


AMERICAN  ISLANDS.  S6! 

there  ate  many  safe  harbors  and  hirge  bays,  with  narrow  entrances, 
encompassed  with  high  mountains,  sheltering  them  from  every 
wind. 

The  face  of  the  country  in  the  island  is  rcpi'esented  as  dreary  and 
inhospitable.  The  inhabitants  are  said  to  be  naturally  as  fair  aS 
Europeans.  They  are  of  a  middle  stature,  have  broad,  flat  faces, 
high  cheek  bones,  and  fiat  noses.  Tliose  on  the  S.  side  are  said  to 
be  uncivilized,  treacherous,  and  barbarous ;  those  on  the  N.  are 
simple,  affable,  and  harmless.  They  cover  their  bodies  in  winter 
with  the  skins  of  wild  animals.  Their  tents  are  made  of  poles, 
disposed  in  a  conical  form,  and  covered  wUh  skins  or  the  bark  of 
trees.  An  island  lying  E.  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  and  called  Staten- 
lancl,  12  leagues  in  length  and  5  in  breadth,  bgirr en  and  desolate, 
has  on  it  a  small  setilement  of  English. 

FALKLAND  ISLANDS. 

These  consist  of  two  large  islands,  with  a  great  number  of  small 
ones  surrounding  them,  and  lie  between  lat.  31  6  and  52  3u  S.  and 
between  Ion.  56  30  and  62  16  W.  They  were  discovered  by  Da- 
vis, in  1592.  In  1764,  commodore  Byron  v.-as  despatched  by  the 
British  government  to  take  possession  of  them  and  plant  a  colony 
at  a  place  called  Fort  Egmoiit.  They  consist  chiefly  of  mountains 
and  bogs,  have  an  inhospitable  climate,  and  can  never  be  of  any 
value  unless  as  a  watering  place  for  ships  bound  to  the  Pacific 
ocean. 

SOUTHERN  GEORGIA» 

This  island  lies  in  lat.  54  30  S.  and  Ion.  37'^  W.  and  is  about  100 
miles  long  and  from  3  to  15  broad.  It  is  a  dismal  region,  abound- 
ing in  bays  and  harbors,  and,  a  great  part  of  the  year  covered  with 
ice.  This  island,  or  rather  cluster  of  islands,  was  discovered  by  a 
Frenchman,  and  afterwards  surveyed  by  capt.  Cook,  who  found  here 
abundance  of  sea  elephants  and  sea  bears  or  fur  seals.  For  some 
years  after,  the  English  visited  these  islands  for  the  purpose  of  tak- 
ing these  elephants  for  their  oil,  from  3000  to  4000  tons  of  which, 
they  have  annually  procured,  and  at  some  seasons  sold  for  40/.  ster- 
ling a  ton.  At  the  same  time  they  caugiit  from  100,000  to  200,000 
seals,  whose  skins  sold  from  1  to  2  dollars  each.  The  Americans^ 
chiefly  from  New-England,  about  tiie  year  1800,  perhaps  a  little 
earlier,  visited  these  islands  with  9  vessels,  and  the  first  year  caught 
not  less  than  151,000  seals.  This  cluster  of  islands  consists  of  high 
peaks,  rising  above  the  clouds,  in  the  form  of  sugar  loaves.  It  is 
barren  of  all  vegetable  productions.* 

GALLAPAGOS. 

These  lie  in  the  Pacific  ocean,  between  lat.  3°  N.  and  4°  S.  and 
between  Ion.  83  40  and  89  30  W.  They  are  very  numerous. 
Only  9  are  of  any  considerable  size.  Some  of  these  are  7  or  8 
leagues  long  and  3  or  4  broad.  They  are  well  wooded  and  abound 
in  fine  turtles. 

•  Drigg's  MS. 
46 


3-6;!  EASTERN  CONTINENT, 


THE  EASTERN  CONTINENT. 

EMBRACING  EUROPE,  ASIA,  AND  AFRICA,  WITH  THEIR  ADJAl- 
CENT  ISLANDS. 


Rxtent.  THE  length  of  the  Eastern  Continent,  from  Nortb 
Gape,  in  lat.  71  10  N.  to  Cape  L'Aguillas,*  106°  of  latitude,  ou 
7335  English  miles.  Its  breadth,  from  East  Cape  to  the  western 
ooast  of  Norway,  is  173°  of  longitude  ;  which  in  the  parallel  67°, 
is  4696  miles.  In  lat.  38  N.  from  the  Rock  of  Lisbon,  in  Ion  9  35 
W.  to  the  eastern  coast  of  Corea,  is  1 38°  35',  or  7557  miles.  Cape 
Verd,  the  western  extremity  of  Africa,  is  in  Ion.  17  31  W.  ;  and 
I-'.ast  Cape,  the  remotest  limit  of  Asia,  is  in  190°  E.  Cape  Taim- 
our,  on  the  northern  coast  of  Asia,  is  in  lat.  77°  N.  ;  and  Cape 
L'Aguillas,  the  southernmost  point  of  Africa,  is  in  lat.  34  50  S. 
The  number  of  square  miles  on  this  continent  is  usually  calculat- 
ed at  22,600,000.  If  the  islands  belonging  to  it  be  added,  together 
with  those  of  Australasia  and  Polynesia,  it  may  probably  amount  to 
28,000,000. 

Boundaries.  The  Frozen  Ocean  bounds  this  continent  on  the 
N.  ;  the  Pacific  and  Indian  on  the  E.  ;  the  Indian  and  Southern 
on  the  S. ;  and  the  Atlantic  on  the  W. 

Pofudation.  From  the  best  data  in  our  possession,  we  are  led  to 
estimate  the  population  of  the  Eastern  Continent,  including  Aus- 
tralasia and  Polynesia,  at  730,000,000,  or  about  2.6  to  a  square  mile,, 
viz. 

Asia  500,000,000 
Africa  50,000,000 
Europe  180,000,000 


Total      730,000,000 

iSVas.  The  TvIeditkhraxean,  the  largest  sea  in  the  world,  lies 
between  Spain  on  the  VV. ;  France,  Italy,  Turkey,  and  Asia  Minor 
on  the  N.  ;  Syria  on  the  E.  ;  and  Egypt,  Tripoli,  Tunis,  Algiers, 
and  Morocco  on  the  S.  Its  length,  from  E.  to  W.  is  2000  miles  ; 
its  breadth  averages  about  400,  covering  a  surface  of  about  800,000 
square  miles.  The  Straits  of  Constantinople,  the  Thracian  Dos- 
fihorus,  unite  it  with  the  Euxine  or  Black  Sea. 

The  Euxine  is  bounded  by  Turkey  and  Russia  W.  ;  by  Russia 
N.  ;  by  Mingrelia  and  Georgia  E.  ;  and  by  Asia  Minor  S.  Its 
length  from  E.  to  W.  is  800  miles,  and  its  breadth  400.  The  large 
rivers,  which  fall  into  the  Euxine,  are  the  Danube,  Neister,  13og, 

*  Cape  L'Aguillas  is  the  most  southern  point  of  Africa,  being  21'  farther 
south  than  Gape  of  Good  Hope.    (BarrQvi.) 


1 


EASTERN  CONTINENT.  362 

and  Neiper.  The  straits  of  Caffa,  the  Cimmerian  Bosfihorus^  con- 
nect  it  on  the  N.  with  the  Sea  of  Azof,  the  Palus  Mceotis  of  an- 
tiquity. This  sea,  is  210  miles  long,  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W. ;  and 
130  broad.  It  is  every  where  shallow,  and  within  30  years  has 
been  fast  and  unaccountably  filling  up  with  sand. 

The  Baltic  lies  wholly  in  Europe.  It  opens  the  into  German 
Sea  by  a  gulf,  pointing  N.  E.  called  the  Skager  Rack  ;  and  after- 
wards passes  S.  through  what  is  called  the  Cattegat^  and  farther  on 
through  the  Sound  of  Elsineur,  the  Great  Belt,  and  the  Little  Belt, 
straits  formed  by  the  Danish  Islands  ;  as  far  as  53  50  the  latitude 
of  Wismar.  From  the  coasts  of  Jutland  and  Holstein  its  direction 
is  eastward,  as  far  as  the  western  coast  of  Courland.  From  the 
northern  shores  of  Prussia  it  is  N.  by  E.  to  its  northern  extremity, 
in  lat.  65  50.  Its  length  from  Tornea  to  Wismar,  southward, 
is  about  900  miles,  and  from  Wismar  northwestward  to  the 
Ocean  the  breadth  is  about  450.*  Its  breadth  between  Swe- 
den and  Germany,  is  75  miles  ;  between,  Sweden  and  Russia, 
in  many  places,  more  than  J50.  North  of  lat.  60,  it  is  called  the 
Gulf  of  Bothnia.  The  length  of  this  part  is  about  420  miles.* 
Immediately  below  this  latitude  the  Gulf  of  Finland  opens  from 
the  east  ;  the  length  of  which  is  about  300  miles,  and  its  breadth 
80. t  These  two  gulfs  are  frozen  over  for  three  months  every 
winter.  Between  Courland  and  Livonia,  also,  the  Gulf  of  Riga 
opens  from  the  S.  E.  and  is  about  60  miles  long.:}:  The  greatest 
depth  of  this  sea  is  said  not  to  exceed  50  fathoms  ;  and,  according' 
to  repeated  observations  made  in  Sv»'cden,  is  steadily  decreasing  at 
the  of  rate  45  inches  in  a  century .f 

The  Red  Sea,  is  the  natural  boundary  between  Asia  and  Afri- 
ca ;  having  Arabia  on  the  E.  and  Egypt  and  Abyssinia  on  the  W. 
Its  length,  from  N.  N.  W.  to  S.  S.  E.  is  about  1  470  miles,  and  its 
common  breadth  120.  The  Straits  of  Babclmandcl  connect  it  with 
a  bay  of  the  Arabian  Sea. 

The  Persian  Gulf,  or  Sea  of  Ormus,  lies  between  Persia  oil 
the  N.  E.  and  Arabia  on  the  S.  W.  It  is  700  miles  long,  and  from 
70  to  180  broad.  It  receives,  from  the  N.  W.  the  waters  of  the 
Euphrates  and  the  Tigris,  which  unite  at  Gormo,  about  1 00  miles 
from  the  sea,  and  are  discharged  by  a  common  channel.  This  se* 
opens,  through  the  Straits  cf  Oi'mus,  into  a  bay  which  sets  up  from 
the  Arabian  Sea. 

The  White  Sea  is  in  the  north  of  European  Russia.  It  opens 
from  the  S.  W.  into  the  Frozen  Ocean.  It  extends  from  lat.  63 
to  69  N.t  and  is  about  500  miles  long.  Its  shores  are  generally 
bold  and  rocky.  The  Bwina,  from  the  S.  E.  falls  into  it  at  Arch- 
angel. 

Bay&t  The  Bay  of  Bengal  is  on  the  E.  side  of  Hindostan, 
having  Ava  and  Malaya  on  the  E. 

The  Bay  of  Okotsk  opens  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  between 
Cape  Lepatka  and  the  Island  of  Jesso  ;  and  into  the  Sea  of  JapaU; 
through  the  Straits  of  Saghalien.     The  waters  of  the  Amoor  arfi 

*  Arrowjmith's  Map.  f  Tookei  \  Malhim. 


3S4  EASTERI^  CONTINEIST. 

■poured  into  it  from  the  S.  E.     The  large  Russian  island  of  Sagha- 
lien,  or  I'clioka,  separates  it  from  the  Sea  of  Japan. 

The  Yellow  Sea,  is  merely  a  bay,  setting  up  between  Corca 
and  China,  about  400  miles  long,  and  from  100  to  250  broad.* 
The  Hoang-lio  lalls  into  il  from  the  W. 

The  Bay  of  Biscay  is  a  large  arm  of  the  Atlantic,  setting  up  in- 
to Europe  between  Spain  and  France.  From  the  E.  it  receives 
the  Garonne  and  the  Loii'c. 

The  Gulf  of  Tonquin  lies  between  China  and  Cochin-China. 
Its  Icngtl  is  about  450  miles,  and  its  breadth  250. 

The  Gulf  of  Oby  receives  the  river  of  the  same  name  in  lat. 
67°  N.  and  discharges  it  into  the  Frozen  Ocean,  in  lat.  73  SO.f 
Its  direction  is  from  N.  N.  E.  to  S.  S.  W.  and  its  length  about  500 
miles.     Its  width  no  where  very  great. 

Sounds.  The  great  mass  of  water  lying  between  Kamtchatka 
and  Tchulskoi  W.  America  E.  and  Alaska  and  the  Alcatian  isles 
S.  is  usually  called  the  Sea  of  Kamtchatka. 

China  Sea  is  also  an  immense  sound,  lying  N.  E.  and  S.  W. 
between  Sumatra,  Malaya.  Cochin-China,  Tonquin,  and  China,  on 
the  W.  and  Borneo,  the  Philippine  Isles,  and  Formosa  on  the  E. 

The  Sea  of  Japan,  or  the  C/iaJi7itl  of  Tartary.)  reaches  in  a  No 
N.  E.  direction,  from  35  to  52  N. 

The  Channtl  of  Mozambique  lies  between  Madagascar  and  Af- 
rica, extending  the  whole  length  of  the  island,  840  miles.  In  its 
narrowest  part  it  is  about  270  miles  across."^ 

The  Geuman  Ocean,  or  North  sea,  is  an  extensive  sound  ; 
liaving  Great  Britain,  the  Orkney  and  Shetland  isles,  on  the  W« 
and  Denmark,  Holland,  the  Netherlands,  and  France,  on  the  E.  It 
reaches  from  lat.  51  to  60  17  N.  and  its  length,  of  course,  is  645. 
miles. 

The  English  Channel  is  a  smaller  sound,  between  the  S.  of 
England  and  the  N.  W.  oi  France.  Its  length  is  350  miles.  The 
Straits  of  Dover  connect  it  with  the  German  Ocean. 

St.  George's  Channel,  between  Ireland  and  Great  Britain,  is. 
larger  than  the  preceding. 

Straits.  The  Strati  3  of  Gif>raltar  extend  from  W.  to  E. 
40  miles,  and  are  the  opening  from  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  into 
the  Atlaritic,  between  Spain  and  Morocco.  In  one  place  they  are 
only  15  miles  wide. 

The  Dakdanelles,  the  ancient  Hellespont.,  is  a  long  narrow 
strait,  between  Asia  Minoi'  and  the  shore  of  Turkey.  It  is  33  miles, 
long,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  broad. f 

The  Straits  of  Babelmandel  are  between  the- Red  sea  and  a, 
bay  of  the  Arabian  sea. 

The  Straits  of  Malacca  separate  Sumatra  from  the  peninsu- 
la of  Malaya.  They  may  be  considered  as  extending  about  150 
•miles  in  length,  from  N.  W.  to  S.  E. 

The  Str  aits  of  Dover,  between  Dover  and  Calais,  connect  the 
English  channel  with  the  German  ocean.  In  the  narrowest  pan 
;hey  are  21  miles  wide. 

"*  Crutwsl^  f  Encyclopjedi:'.* 


EASTERN  CONTINENT.  365 

Lakes.  The  Caspian  Sea,  between  lat.  46  15,  r.nd  36  50  is 
650  miles  long.  Its  greatest  northern  breadth  is  265  ;  while  its 
greatest  southern  breadth  is  but  235.  Its  circumference  is  2820 
miles,  and  its  area  upwards  of  56,000. 

Aral  lies  about  100  miles  east  of  the  Caspian.  It  is  about  200 
miles  long  from  N.  to  S.  and  about  70  broad. 

Baikal  in  Siberia  extends  from  lat.  51  to  above  55.  It  is  up- 
wards of  400  miles  long,  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  and  from  20  to  50 
P:iiies  broad  ;  and  is  surrounded  almost  entirely  v.ith  high  and 
generally  bald  mountains. 

The  Ladoga,  in  European  Russia,  flows  through  the  Neva  into 
the  gulf  of  Finland.  It  is  tlie  largest  lake  of  Europe,  being  140 
miles  long  and  80  broad. 

Onega  Lake,  between  the  Ladoga  and  the  White  sea,  is  about 
150  miles  long,  and  from  40  to  60  broad.  It  has  several  islands, 
consisting  of  marble. 

Rivers.  The  Hoang-ho.^  or  Yellow  river,  in  China,  rises  in  Tar^ 
tary  and  is  lost  in  the  Yellow  sea.  Its  exact  length  is  not  knov/n. 
According  to  Arrowsmith  it  cannot  be  less  than  3600  miles. 

The  KiAN-KU  rises  near  the  source  of  the  Hoang-ho.  Ai'tci' 
washing  the  walls  of  Nankin,  it  enters  the  sea  about  100  miles  S. 
of  the  Hoang-ho.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  these  immense  rivers 
rising  in  the  same  mountains,  and  passing  almost  close  to  each 
other  in  a  particular  spot,  should  afterwards  separate  to  the  dis- 
tance of  15  deg.  or  1050  miles,  and  finally  discharge  themselves 
into  the  same  sea,  within  the  small  distance  of  100  miles. 

The  Lena  takes  its  course,  though  very  winding,  generally  E. 
N.  E.  to  Yakutsk,  and  nearly  nortii  thence  to  its  discharge  into  the 
Frozen  Ocean,  in  lat.  71  30  N.  127  E.  The  whole  length  of  this 
river  is  about  3450  miles. 

The  Yenisea  is  formed  by  the  union  of  the  Sisklt  and  the  Tun- 
guska.  Its  course  is  nearly  N.  to  lat.  70,  where  it  forn,s  a  lon^ 
narrow  bay,  the  bay  of  Yenisea,  through  whose  mouth,  in  lat.  73  so 
N.  it  enters  the  Frozen  Ocean.  Its  width,  at  Yenscisk,  is  nearly  a 
mile.  The  length  of  this  river  docs  not  probably  fall  much  short 
of  that  of  the  Lena. 

The  Oby,  in  lat.   67  N.   and   Ion.  G9  E.   empties  into  the   o-,i]f 
of  Oby,  which  unites  it  with  tlie  Frozen  Ocean  in  lat.  73  .)0  N.  and 
Ion.  73  E.     Its  lei,igth  to  the  head  of  the  gulf,  is  about  2400  miles 
and  thence  to  the  ocean,  500.     It  is  the  largest  river  in  the  Russian 
empire. 

The  Nile  has  two  principal  sources.  The  eastern  rises  in 
Geesh  in  Abyssinia,  in  lat.  10  59  25  N.  and  Ion.  36  55  30  E.  In 
about  lat  15  45  it  receives  the  great  western  branch.  This  branch 
according  to  Rennel,  rises  in  about  lat.  7  N.  and  Ion.  25  E.  among 
the  Mountains  of  the  Moon.  This  is  said  by  Bruce  to  be  three 
times  as  large  as  the  eastern  branch,  and  is  now,  with  great  reason, 
believed  to  be  the  same  with  the  Niger.  If  so,  the  stream,  which 
rises  in  lat.  7  N.  and  Ion.  25  E.  somewhere  in  the  desert,  flows  into 
the  Niger,  and  is  merely  one  of  its  tributaries.  The  Nile,  thus 
enlarged,  runs  N.  E.  and  in  about  lat.  17  50  receiver  the  Athara  a 


r,65  EASTERN  CONTINENT. 

large  lilbiitray,  from  ihc  E.  rising  near  the  lake  Dembea.  Thencej 
after  running  140  miles  due  N.  it  makes  its  great  western  bend, 
and  at  Moscho,  in  lat.  21,  flows  in  Ion.  3u  40  E.  In  lat.  22  15  it 
meets  with  a  chain  of  mountains  and  throws  itself  down  the  cata- 
ract of  Janadil  ;  soon  after  it  tunis  to  the  N.  E.  and  at  Syene  in 
lat.  24  0  45  N.  runs  in  Ion.  33  30.  Hence  its  course  is  N.  W. 
and  N-  to  tlie  Delta  in  lat.  30,  where  it  divides  into  two  great 
arms.  The  western  meets  the  sea  4  miles  below  Rosetta  in  lat. 
31  28  N.  Ion,  30  45  E.  ;  the  eastern  in  lat.  31  30  N.  Ion.  31  53  E. 
The  length  of  the  river  from  Geesh  to  the  Mediterranean  is  prob- 
ably not  less  than  2500  miles  ;  but  the  quantity  of  water  which  it 
empties  into  the  sea  is  small  compared  witli  that  of  many  shorter 
rivers  ;  the  greater  part  of  it  being  probably  absorbed  in  the  sands 
of  Nubia. 

The  Niger  flows  from  the  foot  of  the  western  branch  of  the 
Jibbel  Kunira,  or  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  where  it  forms  a  lake  or 
SAvamp  ;  and  on  the  west  side  of  the  same  mountain  is  another 
swamp,  which  is  the  source  of  the  Senegal,  a  river  flowing  west- 
ward into  the  Atlantic.  The  Niger  pursues  an  easterly  direction, 
and,  in  its  whole  course  through  Soudan,  has  towns  and  villages 
scattered  at  little  intervals  along  its  banks.  About  15  days  jour- 
ney E.  of  Timbuctoo,  it  enters  the  lake  or  sea  of  Soudan,  a  very 
large  lake,  though  its  extent  is  not  precisely  known.  After  leav- 
ing this  lake  it  pursues  its  original  course,  and  either  is  lost  in  the 
sands,  or  in  a  lake  still  farther  east,  or  it  is,  as  both  the  Arabs  and 
negroes  afiivm,  the  great  western  branch  of  the  Nile  of  Egypt. 
There  is  but  one  opinion  on  this  point  in  Morocco  and  at  Timbuc- 
too, and  the  Nile  el  Abeede  and  the  Nile  Massar  are  constantly 
spoken  of  as  branches  of  the  same  stream.  In  1780,  Mr.  Jackson 
was  informed  by  a  very  intelligent  man,  who  had  an  establishment 
at  Timbuctoo,  that  an  expedition  proceeded  from  a  place  called 
Jinnie,  lying  above  that  city  on  the  Niger,  to  Cairo,  a  voyage  of  14 
months.  They  reported  that  there  were  1200  cities  and  towns,  with 
mosques,  or  towers  in  them,  between  Timbuctoo  and  Cairo,  built 
on  or  near  the  banks  of  the  river.  They  returned  Avith  the  west- 
ern caravan  to  Morocco  ;  and  there  joining  the  southern,  reached 
Jinnie  after  an  absence  of  3  years  and  2  months.  Parke  first  came 
upon  the  Niger  in  5  30  "VV.  where  it  was  as  large  as  the  Thames 
at  Westminister.  It  may  therefore  be  considered  as  rising  in  Ion. 
6  30  W.  The  v.estern  branch  of  the  Nile,  the  Bahar  el  Abiad, 
tmites  with  the  eastern  in  Ion.  32  45  E.  of  Greenwich,  or  39  51 
of  Ion.  from  the  source  of  the  Niger,  which  in  lat.  12  is  in  a  straight 
line  2650  miles,  and,  allowing  for  windings  and  difference  of  lati- 
tude, at  least  3000.  Ifthe  Nile  and  Niger  are,  according  to  the 
Arabian  account,  one  river,  its  whole  length  is  not  probably  less 
than  4700  miles. 

The  WoLGA,  or  Volga,  is  the  great  river  of  Europe,  formed  of 
several  streams,  which  unite  in  lat.  56  40  N.  Ion.  33  34  E.  Its 
course  is  S.  E.  to  Zobtzov,  then  N.  E.  to  Mologa,  then  S.  E.  to 
Kazan,  ^nd  then  somewhat  W.  of  S.  to  Tzaritzin,  whence  it  pur- 
fiiies  a  S.  E.  course,  to  the  Caspian,  which  it  enters  by  70  mouths. 


EASTERN  CONTINENT.  3-67 

Its  length,  is  3200  miles.  It  begins  to  be  navigable  at  Tver  in 
lat.  56  50  N.  Ion.  36  16  E.  ;  and  is  every  -where  free  from  cat- 
aracts. 

The  Amoor  rises  among  the  Kentaihem  mountains,  in  about 
lat.  49°  N.  and  110°  E.  in  about  lat.  52,  it  receives  the  Neiza.  Ic 
empties  into  the  sea  of  Ochotsk,  in  about  52  30  N.  opposite  the 
island  of  Saghalien.  It  is  well  stocked  with  fish  ;  and  the  forests 
on  its  banks  consist  of  oak,  walnut,  birch,  and  different  sorts  ot" 
pines.  The  soil  is  very  rich,  and  the  climate  mild  and  healthful. 
The  length  of  the  Amoor  is  probably  over  2000  miles.* 

The  Ganges  is  formed  by  two  branches  from  mountains  in 
Thibet,  which,  at  the  great  ridge  of  mount  Himmaleh,  unite  their 
waters.  The  united  stream,  after  coasting  this  rids^e  of  mountains 
about  100  miles,  forces  its  way  through  it,  in  lat.  33°,  by  a  vast  cav- 
ern worn  in  the  rock,  called  the  Cow's  motith^  and  falls  into  an  im- 
mense rocky  bason  below.  At  Hurdwar  it  leaves  tlie  mountain- 
ous tract,  after  having  wandered  in  it  800  miles,  and  enters  Hin- 
dostan.  In  this  country  its  course  is  S.  and  S.  E.  ;  till,  after  pass- 
ing Benares  and  Patna,  and  receiving  many  large  tributaries,  it 
divides  at  Moorshedabad  into  two  branches.  The  largest,  the  Meg- 
na,  continues  the  direction  of  the  main  river  ;  and  at  Luckpoor,  join- 
ing the  Burrampooter,  forms  with  it  a  common  estuary  at  the  head 
of  the  bay  of  Bengal.  The  western  branch,  called  the  Hoogley^ 
passes  by  Calcutta,  and  runs  S.  W.  to  the  same  bay.  Both  branches 
divide  into  many  smaller  ones,  and  almost  the  whole  Delta  of  the 
Ganges  is  a  mere  marsh,  capable  of  being  inhabited  only  by  tigers 
and  alligators.  The  Hoogley  is  far  the  m^ost  important  branch  to 
the  interests  of  navigation.  The  length  of  the  Ganges  is  about 
2000  railcs,  and  the  quantity  of  its  waters  much  greater  than  its 
length  would  indicate.  In  the  mouths  of  this  river,  the  Bore^  or 
sudden  influx  of  the  tide,  rises  in  both  branches  to  the  height  of 
from  5  to  12  feetf  in  2  or  3  minutes.  Its  approach  may  be  heard 
many  miles  off,  and  it  sounds  like  the  roaring  of  the  ocean  on  a 
surfy  beach.  It  oversets  the  largest  boats,  and  annually  destroys 
multitudes  of  lives. 

The  BuKRAMPooTER  issues  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  samc- 
ridge  of  mountains  with  the  Ganges.  It  separates  from  it  east- 
ward more  than  1200  niijes  ;  and,  after  running  S.  W.  throuo-ls 
Assam,  enters  the  British  territory,  and  runs  S.  400  miles  to  Luck- 
poor.  The  Burrampooter,  in  its  length,  is  thought  to  equal  or 
surpass  the  Ganges,  and  is  its  noblest  tributary. 

The  Danube  rises  in  Swaliia,  in  about  lat.  42  40  N.  and  lon. 
8  30  E.  It  passes  through  Bavaria,  Austria,  Hungary,  Servia, 
Bulgaria,  Walachia  and  Moldavia,  and  enters  the  Black  sea  bv 
various  mouths,  between  lat.  44  55  and  45  30  N. ;  25  miles  below 
Kmail.  Its  length  is  about  1500  miles.  It  receives  in  its  course 
more  than  60  rivers,  and  begins  to  be  navigable  a  little  above  Ulra, 
a  long  distance  from  its  mouth.  In  Hungary,  it  is  so  broad,  that 
in  tlie  wars  between  the  Turks  and  Christians,  ships  of  war  were 

•  Sauer.  f  Remiell,258/ 


SS8  EASTERN  CONTINENT. 

engaged  upon  it ;  and  its  conveniency  for  carriage  to  all  the  dourta 
tries  through  which  it  passes  is  inestimable.  Its  streams  is  rapid, 
and  is  broken,  by  many  cataracts  and  whirlpools. 

Mountains.  The  mountains  of  this  continent  do  not  equal  those 
of  the  western  in  thcii'  height  or  the  length  of  their  ranges.  Most 
of  the  high  mountains  also  are  separate  summits.  Those  of  Eu- 
rope far  surpass  in  height  any  that  are  known  in  the  ranges  of 
Asia. 

Altai.  The  Altaian  chain,  in  length,  is  undoubtedly  the  second 
on  the  globe  ;  reaching  from  about  70°  E.  Ion.  to  the  extreme  boun- 
daries of  Asia,  or  about  5000  miles. 

Ural.  These  mountains  form  a  natural  boundary  between  Eu- 
rope and  Asia.  The  range  commences  between  the  Caspian  and 
the  Aral  ;  attains  its  greatest  height  about  the  sources  of  the  Ural, 
the  Emba,  and  the  Tobol ;  thence  stretches  farther  north  and  turns 
the  waters  of  the  Isetz  and  the  Sosva  eastward,  and  those  of  the 
Petshora  northwestward  ;  and  lastly  forms  two  lofty  promontories 
about  the  Karian  sea.  The  length  of  this  range,  from  its  southern 
extremity  to  the  straits  of  Weygat,  is  between  1800  and  2000 
miles.     The  whole  range  is  very  rich  in  minerals. 

Atlas.  The  range  of  Mount  Atlas,  commences  near  the  At- 
lantic, in  the  southwestern  part  of  Morocco,  and  at  first  pursues  a 
N.  E.  course  separating  that  kingdom  from  Bled  el  Jerrcde.  In 
lat.  33  N.  it  bends  more  to  the  east,  and  passes  between  the  Iat-» 
ter  country  on  the  south,  and  Algiers  and  Tunis  on  the  north.' 
Here  it  is  said  to  terminate. 

Mountains  of  the  Moon.  The  range  commences  in  the 
western  part  of  Airica.  Its  coast  is  eastward,  dividing  the  exten->- 
sive  country  of  Soudan  (the  southern  boundary  of  Sahara  or  the 
Great  Desert)  from  Guinea  ;  and,  pursuing  its  way  through  many 
unknown  regions,  crosses  Africa,  and  is  found  again  in  lat.  7  N. 
at  the  sources  of  the  Nile,  in  the  southern  part  of  Abyssinia.  Its 
length  is  supposed  about  2750  miles. 

Deserts.  Sahara.  This  immense  ocean  of  sand  reaches  from 
the  Atlantic  to  the  confines  of  Egypt,  Sennaar,  and  Abyssinia,  a 
space  of  about  3400  miles,  by  a  breadth  of  830  miles.  It  is  a  pro- 
digious expanse  of  red-sand  and  sand-stone  rock,  defying  every 
exertion  of  human  power  and  industry  ;  but  it  is  interspersed  with 
various  islands,  or  cultivated  and  inhabited  spots  of  different  sizes, 
called  Oa&es,  of  which  Fczzan,  lying  south  of  Tripoli,  is  the  large- 
est  that  has  been  explored.  These  Oases  serve  as  resting  and 
watering  places  for  the  jikabaahs  (accumulated  caravans)  in  their 
journeys  over  the  desert.  At  each  of  them  they  commonly  faalt 
about  seven  days.  In  the  intermediate  stages  the  shame  or  hot 
■winds  of  the  desert  are  often  so  violent,  as  to  exhale  the  water  car- 
ried in  skins  on  the  backs  of  camels.  Tliese  shu?ne  blow  across 
the  v/hole  desert,  and  often  reach  many  miles  over  the  Atlantic. 
They  are  accompanied  by  a  cloud  of  dust  ;  and  drift  the  loose  sand 
along  the  plains,  which  attaches  to  every  fixed  object  in  its  course, 
and  soon  buries  it.  The  intense  heat  of  the  sun,  aided  by  the 
tehement  and  parching  wind,  thus  driving  the  sand  before  it,  gives 


EUROPE.  369 

the  desert  the  appearance  of  a  sea,  the  drifting  sands  resembling 
exactly  the  waves  of  the  ocean,  and  hence  aptly  denominated  by 
the  Arabs  a  sea  without  water. 

The  Asiatic  plains  are  less  desert  than  those  of  Africa.  Those 
in  the  north  of  Asia  are  called  Ste/ifis. 

Gobi.  Destitute  of  plants  and  water  it  is  dangerous  for  horses  ; 
but  is  safely  passed  with  camels.  According  to  Danville,  it  reaches 
from  about  80  to  110  E.  lou.  being  30  deg.  which,  in  lat.  40,  is 
about  1600  miles. 

Stepp  of  Siberia.  This  immense  plain,  extends  from  the  Ko- 
lyma on  tlie  E.  to  the  Oby  on  the  W.  and  from  the  Frozen  Ocean 
on  the  N.  to  the  Tshulim,  the  Tunguska  and  the  eastward  course 
of  the  Lena,  on  the  S. 

Arrangement.  After  this  general  sketch  of  the  prominent  fea- 
tures of  the  Eastern  Continent,  we  shall  proceed  to  a  particular 
account  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa  under  their  respective  civil 
divisions. 

Europe,  the  smallest  in  extent,  and  the  second  in  population  ; 
but  t!ie  first  in  civilization,  arts,  and  arms,  is  entitled  to  the  earliest 
consideration.  Its  divisions  will  be  arranged  in  geographical 
order. 

Asia,  twice  the  cradle  of  mankind,  and  containing  more  than 
twice  the  population  of  the  rest  of  the  world  ;  but  sunk  in  igno- 
rance, idolatry,  and  supineness,  and  more  than  half  its  territory  sub- 
jugated by  Europe  ;  is  still  the  seat  of  several  powerful  empires, 
of  extensive  manufactures,  and  of  a  valuable  passive  commerce.  In 
relative  importance  it  undoubtedly  claims  the  second  place. 

In  connection  with  Asia  and  its  islands,  we  shall  describe  the 
large  islands  generally  included  under  the  name  of  Austral-Asia, 
and  lying  S.  E.  of  the  Indian  ocean  ;  and  the  numerous  clusters  of 
islands  scattered  over  the  Pacific,  which  have  obtained  the  name 
of  Polynesia. 

Africa,  enriched  by  robbery  and  piracy  in  the  north,  and  long 
sunk  to  the  lowt- st  grade  of  ignorance  and  barbarism  in  the  interi- 
or and  the  south,  is  now  rishig  in  the  scale  of  civilization  and  im- 
provement, in  consequence  of  the  Hoble,  pious,  and  benevolent  ex- 
ertions made  for  the  purpose  by  the  liritish  nation.  The  heat  of 
its  climate,  its  immense  deserts,  and  its  want  of  inland  seas,  and 
navigable  rivers,  subject  it  to  peculiar  disadvantages  in  respect  to 
civilization  and  commerce.  The  little  which  is  known  respecting 
this  part  of  the  globe  will  close  our  undertaking. 


EUROPE, 

Extejit.  FROM  the  Rock  of  Lisbon,  in  loo.  9  35  30,  W.  to 
the  Uralian  mountains  in  the  east,  the  length  is  about  3300  nsiles  ; 
and  the  breadth  from  the  North  Cape  in  Danish  Lapland,  in  lat. 
71  10  N.  to  cape  Matapar,  the  southern  extremity  of  Greece,  in 

47 


EUI^OPE.  369 

the  desert  the  appearance  of  a  sea,  the  drifting  sands  resembling 
exactly  the  waves  of  the  ocean,  and  hence  aptly  denominated  by 
the  Arabs  a  sea  without  water. 

The  Asiatic  plains  are  less  desert  than  those  of  Africa.  Those 
in  the  north  of  Asia  are  called  Ste/tfis. 

CoBi.  Destitute  of  plants  and  water  it  is  dang^erous  for  horses  ; 
but  is  safely  passed  with  camtls.  According  to  Danville,  it  reaches 
from  about  80  to  110  E.  lou.  being  30  deg.  which,  in  lat.  40,  is 
about  1600  miles. 

Stepp  of  Siberia.  This  immense  plain,  extends  from  the  Ko- 
lyma on  tlie  E.  to  the  Oby  on  the  W.  and  from  the  Frozen  Ocean 
on  the  N.  to  the  Tshulim,  the  Tunguska  and  the  eastward  course 
of  the  Lena,  oj»  the  S. 

Arrangement.  After  this  general  sketch  of  the  prominent  fea- 
tures of  the  Eastern  Continent,  we  shall  proceed  to  a  particular 
account  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa  under  their  respective  civil 
divisions. 

Europe,  the  smallest  in  extent,  and  the  second  In  population  ; 
but  t!ie  first  in  civilization,  arts,  and  arms,  is  entitled  to  the  earliest 
consideration.  Its  divisions  will  be  arranged  in  geographical 
order. 

Asia,  twice  the  cradle  of  mankind,  and  containing  more  than 
twice  the  population  of  the  rest  of  the  world  ;  but  sunk  in  igno- 
rance, idolatry,  and  supineness,  and  more  than  half  its  territory  sub- 
jugated by  Europe  ;  is  still  the  seat  of  several  powerful  empiresj 
of  extensive  manufactures,  and  of  a  valuable  passive  commerce.  In 
relative  importance  it  undoubtedly  claims  the  second  place. 

In  connection  with  Asia  and  its  islands,  we  shall  describe  the 
lai'ge  islands  generally  included  under  the  name  of  Austral-Asia, 
and  lying  S.  E.  of  the  Indian  ocean  ;  and  the  numerous  clusters  of 
islands  scattered  over  the  Pacific,  which  have  obtained  the  name 
of  Polynesia. 

Africa,  enriched  by  robbery  and  piracy  in  the  north,  and  long 
sunk  to  the  lowest  grade  of  ignorance  and  barbarism  in  the  interi- 
or and  the  south,  is  now  rising  in  the  scale  of  civilization  and  im- 
provement, in  consequence  of  the  Hoble,  pious,  and  benevolent  ex- 
ertions made  for  the  purpose  by  the  British  nation.  The  heat  of* 
its  climate,  its  immense  deserts,  and  its  want  of  inland  seas,  and 
navigable  rivers,  subject  it  to  peculiar  disadvantages  in  respect  to 
civilization  and  commerce.  The  little  which  is  known  respecting 
this  part  of  the  globe  will  close  our  undertaking. 


EUROPE, 

Extent.     FROM  the  Rock  of  Lisbon,  in  loo.  9  r^s  GO,  W.  to 

the  Uralian  mountains  in  the  east,  the  length  is  about  3300  nsiles  ; 

and  the  breadth   from  the  North  Cape  in  Danish   Lapland,  in  lat. 

71  10  N.  to  cape  Matapar,  the  southern  extremity  of  Greece,  in 

47 


270  BRITISH  EMPIRE. 

36  33,  is  about  2350.     The  contents  in  square  miles  have  been* 
calculated  at  about  2,600,000.* 

Boundaries.  On  tlie  north,  the  boundary  is  the  Arctic  ocean. 
It  has  Asia  on  the  east,  the  Mediterranean  south,  and  the  Atlantic 
ocean  west. 

Rdigion.     The  Christian  religion  prevails  throughout  Europe, 
except  in  Turkey,  where  however  at  least  two  thirds  of  the  inhab- 
itants are  attached  to  the  Greek  church.     Wherever  the  Christian 
faith  has  penetrated,  knowledge,  ijiclustry,  and  civilization  have  fol- 
lowed.    The  three  great  divisions  are  Catholics,  Protestants,  and 
the  Greek  church.     Hassel  states  the  whole  population  of  Europe 
at  180,000,000.     Of  these  the  Catholics  compose,  accordnu^-  to  the 
best  of  our  information,  about  9O,00C),00O.     They  are  found  princi- 
pally   in   Southern   Europe  ;    in   Portugal,   Spain,   France,  Italy, 
Southern  Germany,  Austria,  and  the  Netherlands.     There  are  also 
about  3,000,000  in  Ireland.     The  number  of  Protestants  is  about 
49,000,000.    They  inhabit  Great-Britain,  Sweden,  Denmark,  Prus- 
sia, Northern  Germany,  and  Holland  ;  and  are  found  in  considera- 
ble numbers  in  Ireland,  Switzerland,  and  the  Austrian  empire.  The 
Christians  of  the  Greek  church,  in  Europe,  are  about  38,000,000 
in  number.     They  compose  the   population   of  Russia,  and  two 
thirds  of  that  of  Turkey.     The  remaining  3,000,000  are  Mahome- 
tan Turks. 

Climate.  Europe  is  chiefly  situated  in  the  temperate  zone. 
Freedom  from  the  excessive  heats  of  Asia  and  Africa  has  contrib- 
uted to  the  vigor  of  the  frame,  and  the  energy  of  the  mind. 

Governments.  The  kingdoms  and  states  of  Europe  may  be  con- 
sidered, 1.  As  despotic  monarchies,  as  those  of  Russia,  Turkey, 
and  France  :  2.  Absolute  monarchies,  as  Austria,  Spain,  Denmark, 
Sweden,  &c. :  or,  3.  Limited  monarchies,  as  the  kingdom  of  Great- 
Britain.  Since  the  fall  of  Venice,  and  the  subversion  of  Switzer- 
land and  Holland,  scarcely  an  example  occurs  of  permanent  and 
fixed  aristocracy,  or  the  hereditary  government  of  nobles.  And 
not  a  republic  is  novt^  to  be  found  throughout  Europe. 


BRITISH  EMPIRE, 

1.  In  Europe. 

England  Scilly  Isles 

Wales  Guernsey 

Scotland  Jersey 

Ireland  Alderney 

Shetland  Isles  Sark 

Oikney  Isles  Heligoland 

Hebrides  Gibraltar 

Isle  of  Man  Malta 
Angle  sea 

*  Hassel  says  S,S87,019. 


ENGLAND. 


.371 


2.  In 
^Presidency  of  Calcutta 
■Presidency  of  Madras 
Presidency  ot  Bombay 
Northern  Hindostan 
Jiritisli  Ceylon 


Cape  of  Good  Hope 
Jsic  of  Helena 
James's  Island 
Annabon 


3.  In  Africa, 


British  Sumatra 

Amboyua 

British  New-Holland 

Norfolk  Island 

Java  Island 


Sierra  Leona 
Madfiias 
Isle  of  Bourbon 
Isle  of  France 


4,  In  North-America. 

Labrador  Nova- Scotia 

Nevv-North-Wales  Cape  Breton  Island 

New-South-Wales  St.  Jolin's  Island 

Newfoundland  Island  Anlicusti  Island 

Lower-Canada  Bermuda  islands 

Upper-Canada  Nootka  Sound 
New-Biunswick 


Bahamas 

Jamaica 

St.  Thomas 

Tortola 

Anegada 

St.  Martinis 

Santa  Cruz 

Saba 

St.  Eustatia 

St.  Christopher's 

Anguilla 

Barbuda 

Antigua 

Nevis 


5.  In  the  JVeat-Indies. 

Montserrat 

Deseada 

M'U'igalante 

Dominico 

Marlinico 

St  Lucia 

St.  Vincent 

Barbadoes 

Grenada 

The  Grenadines 

Tobago 

Trinidad 

Bonair 

Cura^oa 


British  Guiana 


6.  In   South'America. 

Cayenne 


ENGLAND. 

JVames.  The  name  of  Anglia  or  England  originated  from  the 
Angles,  a  nation  who  settled  in  the  northern  parts  in  the  Hfth  cen- 
tury. 

Extent.  The  island  of  Great-Britain  extends  from  50°  to  58''  N. 
lat.  588  miles  in  length.  Its  greatest  breadth,  from  the  Land'.  End 
to  the  North -Foreland  in  Kent,  is  37U  miles.  Its  extent  in  square 
miles  is  77,243. 


372 


ENGLAND. 


England  is  bounded  E.  by  the  German  Ocean  ;  S.  by  the  English 
Channel ;  W.  by  St.  George's  Channel ;  N.  by  Scotland.  The  ex-? 
tent  of  England  and  Wales  in  square  miles  is  computed  at  49,450^ 
and  the  population  being  estimated  at  8,400,000,  the  number  of  in- 
habitants to  a  square  mile  will  of  course  be  169. 

Divisions.  England  is  divided  into  40  counties,  and  the  princi- 
pality~  of  Wales  into  12  ;  total  in  South  Britain  52  ;  of  which  the 
following  is  a  list,  together  with  their  respective  number  of  inhab- 
itants, and  chief  towns. 


Nuniber  of  Inhabitants 

acco 

i-dine  to  the  la 

te     Chief  Towns. 

enumeration.    (1801.) 

'Northumberland 

157,101 

Newcastle 

Cumberland 

117,230 

Carlisle 

Six  northern 
counties 

Durham 

160,361 

Durham 

Yorkshire 

563,953 

York 

I  Westmoreland 

41,617 

Appleby 

[^Lancashire 

672,731 

Lancaster 

'Cheshire 
Shropshire 

191,751 

Chester 

Four  bordering 

167,639 

Shrewsbury 

on  Wales              '\  Herefordshire 

89,191 

Hereford 

^Monmouthshire 

45,582 

Monmouth 

■ 

'Nottinghamshire 

140,353 

Nottingham 

Derbyshire 

161,142 

Derby 

Staffordshire 

239,158 

Stafford 

Leicestershire 

130,081 

Leicester 

Rutlandshire 

16,356 

Okeham 

Twelve  Midland    < 

Northamptonshire 
Warwickshire 

131,757 
208. ISO 

Northampton 
W^arwick 

Worcestershire 

139,333 

Worcester 

Gloucestershire 

250,809 

Gloucester 

Oxfordshire 

109,620 

Oxford 

Buckinghamshire 

107,444 

Aylesbury 

Bedfordshire 

63,393 

Bedford 

^Lincolnshire 

208,557 

Lincoln 

Huntingdonshire 

37,568 

Huntingdon 

Cambridgeshire 

89,346 

Cambridge 

Norfolk 

273,371 

Norwich 

l^ight  eastern          <; 

Suffolk 

210.431 

Ipsvv'ich 

Essex 

226,437 

Chelmsford 

Hertfordshire 

97,577 

Hei  tford 

^Middlesex 

535,329* 

London 

■yhree  south- 

"  Surry 
Kent 

269,043 
307.624 

Guilford 
Maidstone 

eastci-n 

^  Sussex 

159,311 

Lewes 

'Berkshire 

109,215 

Reading 

fonx  southern         < 

Wiltshire 

185,107 

Salisbury 

Hampshire 

219,656 

W^inchestei 

^Dorsetshire 

115,319 

Dorchestei 

*  Ezdusive  of  the  capitaK 


ENGLAND.  373 

Number  of  Inliabitant» 
accordiiiS'  to  the  late      Chief  Towns, 
enumeration.  (1801.) 

Three  south-  (-Somersetshire  273,750     Taunton 

<  Devonshire 
western  J  .,  ,, 

(^  Cornwall 

Flintshire 


343,001 

Exeter 

188,269 

Launceston 

39,622 

Flint 

60,332 

Denbigh 

41,521 

Caernarvon 

33,806 

Beauniiiris 

29,506 

Bala 

47,978 

Monts^omery 

19,050 

Presteign 

42,956 

Cuidigan 

56,i80 

Peuibioke 

67,317 

Caerniarthen 

o3,633 

Brecknock 

71,525 

Caerdiff 

Denbighshire 

•:■•      XT     .1.  XTT  1        J  Caernarvonshire 
bix,  North  Wales  <;  j^^^^^^,^ 

I  Merionethshire 

i^Montgomeryshire 

f  Radnorshire 

I  Cardigansliire 

o-      c      ,1    fXT  1        J  Pembrokeshire 
bix,  South  Wales  <  ,,  ,,       ,  • 

'  1  Caermarthenshu'e 

j  Brecknockshire 

(_G  lamorganshire 

Historical  epochs.      1.     The  population  of  England  by  the  Celts. 

2.  The  Bclgic  colonies,  who  introduced  agriculttne. 

3.  Tlie  Roman  conquest.  Britain  was  only  seen  by  Julius  CcE- 
sar.  The  Roman  conquest  began  in  the  reign  of  Claudius,  and  in 
that  of  Domitian  the  Roman  eagle  had  been  displayed  as  far  as 
the  Grampian  mountanis. 

4.  The  arrival  of  the  Saxons  and  Angles  in  the  fifth  century. 

5.  The  Danish  conquest  A.  D.  1016.  The  Danish  monarchsof 
England  v/ere  Canute,  Harold,  and  Hardicanute  ;  but  the  sceptre 
returned  to  the  Saxon  line  A.  D.  1042. 

6.  The  Norman  conquest,  A  D.  i066. 

7.  The  great  charter  granted  by  Jolin  at  Runnymede. 

8.  Not  to  mention  the  conquest  of  Wales  and  the  temporary  sub- 
jugation ef  Scotland,  the  civil  wars  between  the  houses  of  York 
and  Lancaster  may  be  regarded  as  the  next  memorable  epoch. 

9.  The  reformation  introduced  by  Edward  VI.  and  Eliaabeth. 

10.  The  civil  wars  under  Charles  I. 

11.  The  Revolution. 

12.  The  war  with  the  American  colonics  forms  not  only  an 
epoch  of  singular  novelty,  but  of  the  most  important  consequences. 

Religion.  The  king  is  siiprcvie  head  of  the  national  church.  Next 
in  dignity  and  power  are  the  archbisliops  of  Canterbury  and  York  • 
the  first  being  styled  Primate  of  all  lingland  ;  and  the  second  Pri- 
mate of  England.  Next  to  these  are  tlie  bishops  ;  of  whom  all,  ex- 
cept the  bishop  of  Sodor  and  Man,  are  members  of  the  house  of 
lords.  The  bishop  of  London,  as  presiding  over  the  capital,  has  the 
precedence  of  all  the  others.  The  bishop  of  Durham  is  second,  and 
the  bishop  of  Winchester  the  third  in  dignity.  These  tliree  bish- 
ops precede  all  the  rest,  who  take  place  according  to  the  seniority 
of  consecration. 

To  every  cathedral  in  England  belong  several  prebendaries  as 
canons,  and  a  dean.  The  dean  and  chapter  of  prebendaries  assist 
the  bishop  in  ecclesiastic  affairs. 

The  next  order  is  that  of  the  archdeacons^  amounting  in  all  to 


374  ENGLAND. 

about  sixty  ;  their  office  is  to  inspect  the  moveables  of  the  church- 
es, to  reform  slight  abuses,  and  to  induct  into  benefices. 

Of  the  Clergy  in  general,  the  lowest  order  is  that  of  deacons, 
whose  office  is  restricted  to  baptism,  to  reading  in  the  church,  and 
assisting  the  priest  at  the  communion  by  handing  the  cup  only. 
The  curate  is  a  clergyman  appointed  to  officiate  for  another,  and  is 
so  named  from  his  having  the  ciwe  oj' souls.  The  church-ivardens 
superintend  the  repairs  and  decorations  of  the  church,  and  the  re- 
quisites for  divine  service,  and  collect  the  alms  of  the  parishioners. 

Those  who  differ  in  tenets  or  forms  from  the  established  church 
may,  in  general,  be  styled  Dissenters,  though  the  term  be  more 
strictly  applied  to  the  Presbyterians,  Congregationalists,  and  Inde- 
pendents. The  other  principal  classes  of  the  dissidents  are  the 
Papists,  Methodists,  Quakers,  the  Anabaptists,  the  Swedenborgians, 
and  the  Unitarians  j  the  last  class,  denying  the  Trinity,  is  now  in- 
termingled with  the  twQ  first,  and  in  considerable  numbers  with 
the  established  church. 

The  Methodists  are  numerous  and  respectable.  Their  numbers 
in  Great-Britain  and  Ireland,  in  July,  1809,  amounted  to  157,921. 
In  the  other  British  dominions  they  amounted  to  1,121.  These 
added  to  the  Methodists  of  the  United  States,  159,500  in  number, 
makes  a  total  of  331,082  Methodists  then  on  the  globe. 

Government.  The  English  constitution  is  a  limited  monarchy, 
counterpoised  by  two  senates,  one  of  hereditary  peers,  the  other  of 
representatives  chosen  by  the  people. 

The  king  of  England  at  his  coronation  solemnly  swears  to  gov- 
ern his  people  accoiding  to  parliamentary  statutes,  and  the  law  of 
thecou'.jtiy;  to  maintain  the  Protestant  religion  ;  and  to  preserve 
the  legal  rights  and  privileges  of  the  bishops,  clergy,  and  church. 

His  acknowledged  prerogatives  are  chiefly  to  declare  war  and 
to  make  peace,  a  power  upon  which  the  whole  of  public  prosperi- 
ty may  be  said  to  depend  ;  to  form  alliances  and  treaties  ;  to  grant 
commission  for  levying  men  and  ariTis  ;  and  even  for  pressing 
mariners.  His  prerogative  likewise  extends  to  the  assembling, 
adjournment,  prorogation,  and  dissolution  of  parliament,  and  to  its 
removal  to  any  place.  He  also  enjoys  the  nomination  of  all  officers 
on  sea  or  land  ;  of  all  niagistrates,  counsellors,  and  officers  of 
state  ;  of  all  bishops  and  other  great  ecclesiastical  dignitaries  ;  and 
is  not  only  the  foimiain  of  honor  but  of  justice,  as  he  may  pardon 
j.ny  offence,  or  mitigate  the  penalty.  As  the  head  of  the  church 
he  may  call  a  national  or  provincial  synod,  and  with  its  consent 
enact  canons  either  relating  to  faith  or  practice.  He  cannot  enact 
new  laws  or  impose  new  taxes  without  the  consent  of  both  houses 
of  parliament. 

The  grand  national  council  claims  the  next  consideration.  The 
House  of  Lords  consists  of  the  sjiirilual  and  temjioral  peers. 
The  former  are  the  bi-^h'  ps.  The  latter  are  hereditary  senators  in 
their  several  degrees  of  duke,  marquis,  earl,  viscount,  and  baron. 

The  House  oy  Commons  consists  of  knights,  citizens,  and  bur- 
gesses, chosen  by  couriUts,  cities,  and  burghs,  in  consequence  oi 
voval  writs  directed  to  the  sheriff. 


ENGLAND. 


The  Privy  Council  is  chiefly  employed  in  deliberation  on  affairs 
of  sudden  emergence,  on  peace  and  war,  and  special  provinces  of 
the  royal  prerogative.     The  members  are  chosen  by  the  king. 

Judicature.  The  judicature  of  England  is  w^ortliy  of  the  high- 
est applause  with  regard  to  precision  and  purity.  The  trial  by  ju- 
ry is  another  admirable  feature  of  English  jurisprudence,  handed 
down  from  the  Saxon  times,  and  is  justly  respected  as  the  very 
safeguard  of  the  lives,  liberties,  and  properties  of  the  nation. 

Among  the  courts  of  law  the  next  in  dignity  to  the  House  of 
Lords  is  the  Court  of  King's  Bench  so  called,  because  the  sove- 
reign was  understood  to  judge  in  person  ;  and  its  jurisdiction  of 
course  extends  to  the  whole  kingdom,  the  presiding  judge  being 
denominated  Lord  Chief  Justice  of  England.  The  Court  of  Chan- 
cery judges  causes  in  equity  to  moderate  the  rigor  of  the  law,  and. 
defend  the  helpless  from  oppression,  and  especially  to  extend  re- 
lief in  three  cases,  accident,  fraud,  and  breach  of  trust.  The  Court 
of  Common  Pleas  determines,  as  the  name  imports,  the  common 
suits  between  subject  and  subject,  and  tries  all  civil  causes,  real, 
personal,  or  mingled,  according  to  the  precise  precepts  of  the  law. 
The  Court  of  Exchequer  decides  all  causes  relating  to  the  royal 
treasury  or  revenue. 

The  judges  perform  their  circuits  in  the  spring  and  autumn. 

Pofiulation.     According  to  a  census  taken  in  1801,  there  were 
In  England,  Males       3,987,935 

Females  4,343,409 


In  Wales,                    Males 
Females 

257,178 

284,368 

8,331,344 

The  Army 
Navy 
Seamen 
Convicts 

198,351 

126,279 

144,558 

1,410 

541,546 

4,715,045 
4,627,443         ' 

470,598 

Total  Males 
Total  Females 

9,343,488 

In  Cities  2,356,793 

In  the  Country  6,5i6,l97 

Army,  Navy,  See.  470,598 


Fanners  1,713,289 

Mechanics    and>       ^  q.c^  r.^. 

Manufacturers  i      1:84^.^51 


9,343,488 


9,343,488 


3/6  ENGLAND. 

Houses  in  England.  1,467,870  inhabited. 

53,965  uninhabited. 


Total  1,521,835 

Families  1,778,420 

-  in  Wales.  108,053  inhabited  houses. 

^  3,511  uninhabited  do. 

111,564 
Families  118,503 

Total  houses  inhabited        1,575,923 
Total  houses  uninhabited       57,476 


1,635,399 
Total  families       1,886,923 
The  population  of  Ireland  is  estimated  at  about     4,000,000 
That  of  Scotland;  at  1,607,760 

The  population  of  England  and  Wales  9,343,488 

Total  inhabitants  in  Great-Britain  1 4,95 1 ,248 

The  following  is  a  comparative  statement  of  the  population  of 
Great-Britain  in  the  year  1801  and  1811  ;  shewing  the  difference 
between  the  two  returns. 

1801 

males.  female. s                 total. 

En£>:land                     3,987,935  4,343,499              8,331,434 

Wales                             257,178  284.368                  541,546 

Scotland                        734,581  864,487               1,599,068 

Army,  Navy,  &c.        470,598  470,598 


Total      5,450,292  5,492,354  10,942,646 

1811 

males.  females.  total. 

England                       4,555,257  4,944,143  9,499,400 

Wales                             289,414  317,965  607,380 

Scotland                        825,377  979,487  1,804,864 

Army,  Navy,  &c.       640,500  640,500 


Total     6,310,548  6,241,596  12,552,144 

Difference  in  the  returns  : 
England  1,167,966 

Wales  65,834 

Scotland  208,  i  80 

Army,  Navy,  Sec.       16y,902 

Total    1,611,882 

The  English  language  is  probably  diffused  to  the  extent  of 
30,000,000  of  people. 


ENGLAND.  m 


j*rmy.     The  British  army,  in  1808,  consisted, 
1.  O^  regular  troofis,  as  follows,  viz. 
Infantry  101,003") 

Swiss  do.  19,5  51  I  128,422 

German  do.  7,858  J 

Cavalry  22,653") 

Swiss  do.  72  [.25,714 

German  do.  2,989  J 

Guards  8,090 

Garrisons  6,757 

Veterans  5,624 

Armee  Depots  3,899 

Artillery  24,781 


Total     203,287 
2.  0[  Militia. 
In  Great-Britain  54,686 

Ireland  21,473 


Total  Militia  ■         76,159 
Total  Regulars    203,287 


Whole  No.     279,446 
The  British  forces  in  the  East-Indies,  in  1809,    242,000 


Total     521,446 

JVavy,  The  great  rampart,  defence,  and  glory  of  Great-Britaiu 
consist  in  her  navy,  in  size,  strength,  and  number  of  ships,  far  ex° 
ceeding  any  examples  on  record,  as  may  be  judged  from  the  fol- 
lowing catalogue  formed  in  February,  181 !. 

NAVY  LIST,  February,    1811. 

Statement  of  the  British  naval  force,  exclusive  of  the  hired  armed 
vessels,  which  are  chief  ij  employed  in  protecting  the  coasting 
trade  of  Great-Briiain. 


At  sea         -          -         89 

9 

125 

100 

140 

32 

53 

5      553 

In  port  and  fitting          31 

6 

37 

47 

33 

7 

22 

183 

Guard,  hospital,  and  ?     „ 
prison  ships           ^ 

In  ordinary  and  re-? 
pairing                  5 

Building      -         -         35 

6 

11 
2 

6 

98 
14 

5 

44 
3 

17 

1 

4 

53 

8     246 
54 

Total     254 

34 

280 

199 

190 

40 

79 

13  108? 

This  number  has  since  been  increased  to  upwards  of  1300. 
48 


srs  ENGLAND. 

For  this  immense  fleet  the  number  of  seamen  amounts  from  IjOG 
to  120,000,  a  number  which  no  other  country  ancient  or  modern 
could  have  supplied. 

Re-venue.  The  excise  forms  one  of  the  most  productive  branch- 
es of  the  revenue.  Next  stand  the  cvstoins,  and  after  them  the 
starnfis.  The  land-tax  has  recently  been  rendered  perpetual  and 
sold  to  proprietors  of  estates  and  other  individuals.  But,  instead  of 
the  land-tax,  now  appear  those  on  sugar,  tobacco,  and  malt,  amount- 
ing to  near  3,000,000.  The  other  supplies  arise  from  the  East- 
India  Company,  lotteries,  Sec. 

The  amount  of  the  revenue  for  the  year  ending  January,  1810, 
was  76,805,450. 

The  amount  of  expenditure  for  the  same  year,  was  /^82,027,288. 
Of  tlus  sum /;20,956,052  was  for  interest  on  the  national  debt; 
jriO,904;450,  interest  on  debt  redeemed  and  sinking  fund,  applied 
to  the  reduction  of  national  debt.  For  the  navy  £9,791,408.  Foi 
the  army  £  1 8,465,094. 

The  unredeemed  funded  debt  of  Great-Britain  was 

C  sterling 
On  the  1st  of  February,  1810^  541,957,854 

On  the  1st  of  February,  1811,  545,662,698 


Increase       3,704,844 

To  alleviate  this  growing  burthen,  a  sinking  fund  was  instituted 
in  1786,  by  which  upv/ards  of  12  millions  sterling  are  annually  re- 
deemed. The  national  debt  began  in  the  reign  of  William,  and 
grew  into  what  are  called  the  funds  or  stocks,  only  synonymous 
terms  for  the  public  debt. 

The  civil  list,  from  which  are  defrayed  the  salaries  of  officers  of 
state,  judges,  ambassadors,  &c.  together  with  the  expcnccs  of  the  . 
royal  familv,  amounts  to  1,000,000  annually. 

Character.  The  cold  restraint,  which  some  foreigners  have 
ascribed  to  the  English,  has  been  candidly-judged  by  a  recent  trav- 
eller, to  exist  only  in  appearance.  A  more  genuine  attribute  of 
the  English  is  integrity,  which  has -carried  their  credit  and  com- 
merce to  an  extentbefore  unknown  in  the  history  of  nations.  Their 
liberality  and  exertions  in  the  establishment,  and  support  of  good 
institutions,  and  particularly  in  the  diffusion  of  Christian  knowledge, 
surpasses  those  of  any  other  nation  on  the  earth. 

Lmiguage.  ISIost  European  languages  are  derived  from  the 
Gothicorthe  Latin.  To  tb.e  Latin  origin  belong  the  Italian,  French, 
and  Spanish  ;  to  the  Gothic,  the  German,  Dutch,  Flemish,  Danish^. 
Swedish,  and  Norwegian.  From  the  situation  of  the  country,  and 
other  causes,  the  English  participates  of  both  those  grand  sources ; 
and  utiites  in  some  degree  the  force  of  the  Gothic  with  the  melody 
of  the  Latin  dialects. 

Literature.  English  literature  is  a  vast  and  inviting  field  ;  but 
a  few  fugitive  remarks  must  here  suffice.  Of  the  traditionary 
verses  of  the  druids,  a  few  relics  still  exist ;  but  the  Roman  con- 
quest does  not  appear  to  have  inculcated  letters  vv'ith  much  difFu- 
sion,  for  no  author  of  those  periods  claims  a  British  origin.     The 


ENGLAND.  379 

-'T^ountiy  was  seized  by  the  Saxons,  before  Biiiish  Hteralure  faintly- 
dawned  in  Gildas,  A.  D.  560.  Irish  literature  commenced  about 
the  same  period,  and  continued  for  some  centuries  to  supply  nu- 
merous writers  in  the  Latin  language  ;  while  England  remained 
almost  destitute.  But  Bcda  in  the  eighth  century  redeemed  this 
■  defect,  in  himself  a  host,  and,  like  Chaucer,  the  wonder  of  his  time. 
The  Danish  invasions  were  ruinous  to  literature,  both  in  Great- 
Britain  and  Ireland,  and  the  great  Alfred  was  obliged  to  exert  his 
utmost  endeavors  in  order  to  restore  some  degree  of  learning  even 
among  the  clergy.  That  admirable  prince  himself  translated  some 
•^vorks  of  merit  and  utility,  as  the  histories  of  Orosiusand  Beda,  in- 
to the  Anglo-Saxon.  Ot  the  interval  between  the  age  of  Beda  and 
the  year  1  100,  the  Saxon  chronicle  is  a  noble  but  neglected  monu- 
■ment,  being  the  only  civil  history  of  England,  for  a  space  of  400 
years.  About  the  year  1 100,  English  literature  commenced  a  firm 
and  steady  pace  ;  a  numerous  train  of  historians,  poets,  and  other 
writers,  fills  the  pages  of  biography.  In  the  fourteenth  century, 
Roger  Bacon  aspires  even  to  the  praise  of  eminent  genius.  In  the 
following  century,  the  civil  wars  between  the  houses  of  York  and 
Lancaster  were  destructive  of  liteiature  and  the  arts  ;  nor  will  it  be 
easy  to  name  an  illustrious  author  of  that  period,  though  the  intro- 
duction of  printing  in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Fourth  torms  a  mem- 
orable epoch-  The  writers  of  the  sixteenth  and  following  centu- 
ries are  numerous  and  well  known.  The  grand  feature  of  English 
literature  is  original  genius,  transmitted  even  from  Roger  Bacon  to 
Shakespeare,  Lord  Bacon,  Milton,  Newton,  Locke,  and  Berkeley  ; 
not  to  dwell  here  on  claims  more  minute,  but  equally  firm.  In  sci- 
entific department,  England  does  not  yield  even  to  France.  In  the 
various  branches  of  mathematical  knowledge,  she  has  surpassed  ajl 
-nations.  The  English  clergy  have  always  cultivated  classical  lit- 
erature with  distinguished  zeal  and  predilection. 

liducation.  Tiie  education  of  the  lower  classes  in  England  had 
become  extremely  neglected,  before  the  benevolent  institution  of 
the  Sunday  schools.  Schools  on  the  Lancastrian  plan  have  lately 
been  instituted  in  almost  every  village.  Probably  the  next  genera- 
tion will  be  almost  universally  acquainted  with  reading,  writing, 
end  arithmetic.  The  middle  and  higher  ranks  of  English  spare  no 
expcnce  in  the  education  of  their  sons,  by  private  tutors  at  home, 
or  at  what  are  called  day  schools  and  boarding  schools.  The  most 
eminent  public  schools  are  those  of  St.  Paul's,  Westminster,  Eton, 
and  Winchester  ;  and  from  them  have  arisen  some  of  the  most  dis- 
tinguished ornaments  of  their  country.  The  scholars  in  due  time 
proceed  to  the  universities  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge  ;  foundations, 
of  an  extent  and  grandeur  that  impress  veneration  ;  the  former 
embraces  no  less  than  seventeen  colleges,  the  latter  sixteen. 

Cities  and  Toivna,  London,  t!ie  metropolis  of  England,  is  situ- 
ated in  an  extensive  plain  watered  by  the  Thames,  and  only  con- 
fined on  the  north  by  a  few  small  elevations  ;  being  a  place  of  great 
antiquity  and  first  mentioned  by  Tacitus.  It  now  includes  Souih- 
wark,  a  borough  on  the  other  side  of  the  Thames,  and  Westmin- 
r.ter,  another  city  on    the  west.     The  noble  river  Tliames   is 


380  ENGLAND. 

Iiere  about  440  yards  in  breadth,  crowned  with  three  bridges, 
crowded  with  a  forest  of  masts,  and  conveying  into  London  the 
•wealth  of  the  globe,  forming  an  excellent  port,  without  the  danger 
of  exposure  to  maritime  enmity.  It  is,  however  a  great  defect,, 
that  instead  of  open  quays  and  streets  on  the  banks  of  the  stream, 
the  view  is  obstructed  on  both  sides  by  irregular  masses  of  building, 
which  do  not  even  admit  of  a  path.  London  presents  almost  every 
variety  which  diversifies  human  existence.  Upon  the  east  it  is 
a  sea-port,  replete  with  mariners  and  with  the  trades  connected, 
with  that  profession.  In  the  centre,  it  is  the  seat  of  numerous 
manufactures  and  prodigious  commerce  ;  while  the  western  or 
fashionable  extremity  presents  royal  and  noble  splendor,  amidst 
scenes  of  the  high.est  luxury  and  most  ruinous  dissipation.  Lon- 
don requires  in  one  year  1,752,100  quarters  of  grain,  101,075 
beeves,  707,456  sheep,  with  calves  and  pigs  in  proportion  :  the 
vegetables  and  fruits  annually  consumed  are  valued  at  1,000,000 
sterling. 

The  population  of  London  has  by  some  been  exaggerated  to  a 
million  of  souls;  but  by  the  enumeration,  in  1801,  there  were 
males  393,369,  females  471,476;  total  864,845.  If  to  these  be 
added  the  regiments  of  guards,  the  miliiiain  London,  and  the 
seaman  on  the  Tluunes,  the  population  would  exceed  900,000. 
The  number  of  houses  was  126,414.  Its  length  from  Hyde-park 
corner  on  the  west,  to  Poplar  on  the  east,  is  about  six  miles  ;  the 
breadth  unequal,  from  three  yniles  to  one  and  less  ;  the  circumfer- 
ence may  be  about  sixteen  miles.  The  houses  are  almost  univer- 
sally of  brick,  and  disposed  with  insipid  similarity  ;  but  in  recom- 
pence  most  of  the  streets  are  excellently  paved,  and  have  convenient 
paths  for  foot  passengers.  Few  of  the  public  edifices  in  London  can 
pretend  to  much  magnificence.  The  cathedral  of  St.  Paul's  forms 
Que  of  the  chief  exceptions  ;  the  exterior  architecture  of  this  princi- 
pal cathedral  of  the  Protestant  faith  being  majestic  to  a  degree  of 
sublimity,  but  the  interior  is  defective  in  decoration. 

Tlie  churches  and  chapels  exceed  200  in  number,  and  a  few  arc 
of  beautiful  artichecture.  Some  arc  the  productions  of  Inigo 
Jones  ;  as  is  also  the  noble  banqueting-house  at  Whitehall,  with 
a  masterly  ceiling,  painted  by  Rubens,  representing  the  apotheosis 
of  James  I. 

York.  Next  to  the  capital  in  dignity,  though  not  in  extent'  ror 
opulence,  is  York  ;  which  is  not  only  the  chief  of  a  large  and  fertile 
province,  but  inay  be  regarded  as  the  metropolis  of  the  North  of 
Enirlar.d.  This  venerable  city  is  divided  by  the  river  Ouse  ;  and 
thi  Gothic  cathedral  is  of  celebrated  beauty,  the  western  front  be- 
ing peculiarly  rich,  the  chief  tower  very  lofty,  and  the  windows  of 
the  finest  painted  glabs.  York  divides  with  Edinburgh  the  winter 
visits  of  the  northern  gentry.  Its  inhabitants,  accoiding  to  the 
enumeration  in  1801,  amounted  to  16,145,  and  its  houses  to  2,000. 

LivEKPOoL  Liverpool,  in  Lancashire,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
last  century,  was  merely  a  village.  By  the  enumeration  in  1801, 
the  number  of  inhabitants  was  77,653.  The  number  of  houses  9,925. 

BRiSiToi.,  a  large  and  flourishing  city,  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the 


ENGLAND.  381 

confluence  of  the  Frome  with  the  Avon.  The  Lot  wells  in  the 
neighborhood  appear,  to  have  been  known  in  1480;  but  the  water 
Avas  chiefly  used  externally,  till  about  the  year  1670  ;  when  a  baker, 
dreaming  that  his  diabetes  was  relieved  by  drinking  the  water,  he 
tried  the  experiment  and  recovered.  The  trade  of  Bristol  is  chief- 
ly with  Ireland,  the  West  Indies,  or  North  America,  Hamburg^ 
and  the  Baltic.  By  the  navigation  of  the  two  rivers  Severn  and 
Wye,  Bristol  also  engrosses  much  of  the  trade  of  Wales.  In  1 787, 
Bristol  employed  about  1600  coasting  vessels,  and4i6  ships  en- 
gaged in  foreign  commerce.  Inhabitants  in  180!,  63,645.  Hoiises 
10,896. 

Bath  is  esteemed  the  most  elegant  town  in  England  The 
liot  baths,  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  were  known  in  the  Ro- 
man tinies.  Situated  in  a  vale,  Bath  is  very  hot  in  summer.  Tlie 
houses  are  constructed  of  white  stone,  which  abounds  iii  the  vicini- 
ty. Its  inhabitants  in  180i,  amounted  to  32,200,  and  its  houses 
to  4,463. 

Manchester,  in  Lancashire.  In  1802  the  number  of  inhabit- 
ants was  84,020.  The  numl)er  of  houses  12,823.  The  cotton 
nianutactures  of  Manchester  are  known  over  Eurupc  and  America. 

Birmingham,  in  Warwickshire,  is  a  celebrated  manufacturing 
town.  Between  the  years  1741  and  1790,  it  had  received  an  aug- 
mentation of  seventy  two  streets,  4172  houses,  and  23,320  inhabit- 
ants :  the  population  in  1802  amounted  to  73,670  ;  and  the  houses 
to  16,403. 

Sheffield,  in  the  most  southern  part  of  Yorkshire,  had  been 
distinguished  for  a  kind  of  knives  called  whittles,  and  other  articles 
of  cutlery,  as  early  as  the  thirteenth  century  ;  yet  till  within  the 
last  half  century,  the  manufactures  of  Shcfficid  were  conveyed 
weekly  to  the  metropolis,  on  pack  horses.  In  175  1,  the  river  l)vn 
was  rendered  navigable  to  within  2  miles  of  the  town  ;  whicii 
facilitated  the  export.  The  plated  goods  commer.ccd  about  1758. 
In  the  year  1615,  the  population  only  amounted  to  2152  ;  in  1755, 
to  12,983  ;  in  1789,  about  30,000.     In  1802,  is  was  31,314. 

Exeter,  in  the  county  of  Devon,  is  the  seat  of  an  extensive  com- 
merce in  coarse  woollen  goods,  manufactured  in  a  part  of  Somer- 
setshire and  in  Devon  and  Cornwall.  They  are  exported  to  Italy, 
and  other  parts  of  the  continent,  to  the  annual  value,  as  is  snpposcci, 
of  600,0001.  and  the  East  India  eompany  purchase  yearly  to  a  con- 
siderable amount.     Inliabitants,  17,398. 

Por-tsmouth  is  the  grand  naval  aisenal  of  England.  TLc  iiai- 
bor  is  noble  and  capacious  ;  narrow  at  the  entraitce,  but  s])reat.'i:;:; 
out  into  an  inland  bay  3  or  6  miles  in  length,  and  from  2  to  4  'u^ 
breadth.  The  advantages  deiivcd  from  nature  have  been  improv- 
ed by  the  art  and  industry  of  successive  gcneiaiions  ;  and  to  a 
patriot,  Portsmouth  presents  one  of  the  most  intcrestiny,-  scenes  :u 
be  found  in  the  British  dominions.  The  regular  foriihcauon->  lo 
wards  the  land,  in  themselves  happily  a  novelty  to  the  Biitish  eye, 
llie  magnitude  and  variety  of  the  maiitime  objects  and  m.anul'ac- 
tures,  and  the  prospect  of  Spithead,  the  grand  fucus  of  naval  arm- 
ament, conspire,  with  a  thousand  relative  ideas  concerning  t^e 


382  ENGLAND. 

;po\ver   of  England,  supreme   in    every  sea,  to   excite    a^lonisli- 
meni  and  cMiltaiion.     Inhabitants,  exclusive  oi  Gosport,  32,166. 

Worcester  is  situated  on  the  noble  river  Severn,  over  which 
there  is  a  l^eauiiful  bridge.  The  manufactures  are  cliiefiy  gloves 
and  wooiien  stufi's  ;  and  the  porcelain  maintains  a  high  reputation. 
Inhabitants,  1 1,353. 

The  next  memorable  town  is  Noravich,  the  capital  of  Norfolk  ; 
from  its  size  and  consequence,  justly  styled  a  city.  The  damasks, 
camlets,  crapes,  stuffs.  Sec.  here  wrought,  have  been  computed  at 
the  yearly  value  of  700,0001.     Inhabitants,  36,850  ;     houses,  7500. 

Yarmouth  is  a  noted  sea-port,  with  a  beautiful  quay.  Inhabit- 
,ants,  14,845. 

On  the  Humber,  the  wide  receptacle  of  many  rivers,  stands  the 
great  sea-port  of  Hull,  which  was  founded  by  Edward  I.  The 
liavbor  is  artificial,  and  is  supposed  to  present  the  largest  dock  in 
the  kingdom.  The  trade  is  important  with  America  and  the  south 
of  Europe,  but  chiefly  with  the  Baltic  ;  and  several  ships  are  em- 
ployed in  the  noithern  ,*vha!e  fishery.  The  coasting  traffic  is  ex- 
tensive in  coals,  corn,  v/ool,  and  manufactures  :  and. Hull  supplies 
the  commerce  of  many  northern  counties  ;  having  not  only  com- 
i-nunication  with  the  Trent,  tiud  other  branches  of  the  Humber,  but 
'vvith  the  rivers  and  canals  oi  Yorkshire.*  Its  inhabitants  amounted 
in  1801,  to  29,516.  / 

Leeds  is  the  principal  port  for  broad-cloths,  or  what  foreigners 
term  fine  English  cloth.  It  is  situated  on  the  river  Aire,  in  an  ex- 
tensive vale.  The  population  of  the  parish  amounts  to  53,162,  and 
the  houses  to  669  1  c  the  cloths  are  woven  in  the  neighboring  vil- 
lages ;  but  are  died,  prepared,  and  sold,  at  Leeds.  The  cloth-hall 
appropriated  to  the  sale,  is  a  vast  edifice  ;  and  the  whole  business 
is  transacted  within  the  space  of  an  hour  on  the  market  days. 

On  the  river  Tyne,  stands  Newcastle,  so  termed  from  a  for- 
tress erected  by  Edward  L  This  large  and  populous  town,  con- 
taining 28,366  inhabitants,!  is  placed  in  the  centie  of  the  grand 
coal-mines  in  the  counties  ol  Durham  and  Northumberland,  which 
}iave  for  centuries  supplied  London  and  most  of  the  east  and  south 
■of  England  wiih  that  fuel  ;  which  has,  perhaps,  contributed  more 
'to  the  manufactures  and  commerce,  and  consequent  wealth  and 
power  of  this  kingdom,  than  any  other  material  or  circumstance. 
The  coal  fleets  sometimes  amount  to  five  huncircd  sail ;  their  sta- 
tion is  at  Sl/ield?.  Even  as  a  nurseiy  of  seamen,  the  trade  is  inval- 
uable. In  all  parts  of  the  neighborhood  are  seen  large  carts  laden 
with  coals,  and  proceeding  towards  the  port,  on  inclined  planes, 
without  the  helpofhorsts  or  men,  to  the  great  surprise  of  the 
stranger. 

Caermarthen  is  the  pi  incipal  town  in  South  Wales  :  it  stands 
iipon  the  river  Towy.     Inhabitants,  5548. 

Caernarvon  is  the  chief  town  of  North  Wales,  for  the  beauty  of 
the  situation,  regularity  of  the  streets,  and  above  all  for  the  gran- 
deur of  the  castle,  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  Europe,  founded 

*  Aiken, .ling,  delin.  5C.  f  Hassel  savs  36,9CS,  in  ISOl. 


ENGLAND.  SSS 

by  Edward  I.  in  1282.  The  town  has  a  considerable  trade  with- 
London,  Bristol,  Liverpool,  and  Ireland,  and  has  a  beautiful  quay 
along  the  side  of  the  Menai,  a  struii^ht  between  North  Wales  and 
An^ilesea. 

Inland  J\'avigation.  The  Duke  of  Biida;ewater  is  justly  vene- 
rated as  the  grand  founder  of  inland  navigation  :  his  spirit  and  opu- 
lence vi'cre  liappily  seconded  by  Brindlcy,  who  possessed  an  un- 
common natural  genius  in  mechanics.  It  wasin  the  year  1758  that. 
the  first  act  was  obtained  for  these  great  designs.  The  first  canal 
extends  from  Worsley  mill,  about  seven  computed  miles  from 
Manchester,  and  reaches  that  town  by  a  course  of  nine  miles.  lu 
this  short  space  almost  every  difllculty  occurred  that  can  arise  in 
similar  schemes ;  but  mountaii>s  and  rivers  yielded  to  the  genius 
of  Brindley.  There  are  subterraneous  passages  to  the  coal  in  the 
mountain,  of  near  a  mile  in  length,  sometimes  cut  through  the  sol- 
id rock,  and  occasionally  arched  over  with  brick  ;  with  air-funnels 
to  the  top  of  the  hill,  some  of  them  thirty-seven  yards  perpendicu- 
lar. This  beautiful  canal  is  brought  over  the  river  Irwell,  by  aa 
arch  of  thirty  nine  feet  in  height,  and  under  which  barges  pass- 
•without  lowering  their  masts.  Tlie  Duke  of  Biidgewater  soon  af- 
terwards extended  a  canal  of  twenty-nine  miles  in  length,  fioni 
Longford-bridge,  in  Lancashire,  to  Hempstones,  in  Clieshire. 

The  Lancaster  canal  extends  from  Kendal,  by  Lancaster,  to 
West  Houghton,  a  space  of  about  74  miles. 

The  canal  f'om  Leeds  to  Liverpool,  directed  in  a  northerly 
course'by  Skipton,  winds  through  an  extent  of  117  miles  ;  and  from 
this  canal  a  branch  also  extends  to  Manchester. 

From  Halifax  to  Manchester  is  another  considerable  canal,  com- 
monly called  that  of  Rochdale  ;  length  31^  miles,  begun  in  1794. 

Another  canal  extends  from  Manchester  towards  Wakefield  -. 
and  another,  called  the  Peak  Forest  canal,  stretches  from  the  foi  - 
mer,  southeast,  about  15  miles. 

Another  joins  the  river  Dun,  several  miles  above  Doncaster,  to 
the  river  Calder,  near  V/akefield. 

The  Chesterfield  canal  extends  from  Chesterfield  to  the  Trenu 
and  another  from  Horncastle  to  Sleaford.  Grantham  canal  reaches 
from  that  town  to  the  river  Trent,  a  course  of  30  miles. 

The  grand  design  of  Brindley  was  to  join,  by  inland  navigation, 
the  four  great  ports  of  the  kingdom,  Bristol,  London,  Liverpool, 
and  Hull.  Liverpool  is  accordingly  connected  with  Hull  by  a 
canal  from  that  long  navigable  river  the  Trent,  and  proceeding  N, 
to  the  Mersey.  The  canal  which  joins  these  two  rivers  is  styled 
the  Grand  Trunk  ;  and  was  begun  in  1766,  under  the  direction  of. 
that  great  engineer  ;  but  v/as  not  completed  till  1777  :  the  length 
is  99  miles.  It  was  attended  with  great  difficulties,  particularly- 
in  passsing  the  river  Dove,  in  Derbyshire,  where  there  is  an 
aqueduct  of  twentv-three  arches  ;  the  tunnel,  through  the  hill  of 
Hare-castle  in  Staffordshire,  is  in  length  2880  yards,  and  more 
than  70  yards  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  was  executed 
■with  great  labor  and  expense.  But  the  utility  corresponds  with 
the  grandeur  of  the  design  :  salt  from  Cheshire,  coals  and  potterj- 


3S4  ENGLAND. 

iVotn   Stanbrshirc,  and   manufactures  from   various  places,  aic 
transported  on  this  canal. 

From  the  Grand  Trunk  5  or  6  branches  extend  in  various  direc- 
tions :  anions^  which  must  not  be  omitted  that  to  the  river  Severn, 
near  Bowdlevi  which  connects  the  port  of  Bristol  v/ith  those  of 
Liverpool  and  Hull  ;  the  length  is  45  miles  ;  completed  in  1772, 
TJie  other  canals  are  too  numerous  to  mention. 

Manufactures  and  Coimnerce.  The  earliest  staple  commodity 
of  Eni.;land  was  tin,  a  metal  rarely  found  in  other  countries. 
Wool  liad  been  rc-^arded  as  a  i^rand  staple  of  England,  but  was 
chiefly  exported  in  a  crude  slate,  till  Edward  LIL  encouraged  set- 
tlements of  Flemisli  manufacturers.  Wool  soon  became  the  prime 
article  of  commerce.  The  exportation  of  raw  wool  was  at  length 
prohibited  The  Avoollen  manufactures  preserve  great  importance, 
though  they  no  longer  attract  such  particular  regard,  amidst  the 
exuijcrance  of  English  manufactures. 

In  recent  times  the  manufactures  of  iron  and  copper,  native 
minerals,  have  become  great  sources  of  national  wealth  ;  nor  must 
tlie  new  and  extensive  exportation  of  elegant  earthen  ware  be  for- 
gotten. The  cotton  manufacture  is  diffused  far  and  wide,  forming 
a  grand  source  of  industry  and  prosperity.  That  of  linen,  except 
of  sail-cloth,  is  not  much  cultivated  in  England.  The  manufac- 
tures of  glass  and  fine  steel,  clocks,  watches,  S:c.  are  deservedly 
eminent  and  extensive.  As  the  nation  is  indebted  to  Wedgewood 
for  converting  clay  into  gold,  so  to  Boydell  for  another  elegant 
branch  of  exportation,  that  of  beautiful  prints. 

Besides  manufactured  articles,  England  exports  a  number  of 
native  products  too  numerous  to  be  here  mentioned. 

The  English  manufactures  have  been  recently  estimated  at  the 
annual  value  of  63,600,0001.  and  supposed  to  employ  1,585,000  per- 
sons. Of  these  the  woollen  manufacture  is  supposed  to  yield  m 
round  sums,  15,000,000/.  the  leatiicr  10,000,000/.  the  iron,  tin,  and 
lead  10,000,000/.  the  cotton  9,000,000/.  The  other  chief  manu- 
factures, which  yield  from  1  to  4,000,000/.  may  be  thus  arranged, 
according  to  their  consequence  ;  steel,  plating,  &c.  copper  and 
brass,  silk,  potteries,  liricn  and  flax,  hemp,  glass,  paper. 

The  commerce  of  England  is,  at  the  present  period,  enormous, 
anrl  may  be  said  to  extend  to  every  region  of  the  globe.  The 
trade  with  the  West  Indies  is  one  of  the  most  important,  and  that 
with  tlie  East  Indies  alone,  would  have  astonished  any  of  the  cele- 
brated trading  cities  of  antiquity. 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  amount  of  the  imports,  exports, 
and  tonnage  of  Great  Britain  every  year  of  the  present  century. 


Year. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Tonnagre. 

1800 

;C3o!,)70,60.'; 

^43,152,019 

1,924,042 

1801 

.■32,795,557 

42,301,701 

1,958,37.'5 

5  802 

31,442,318 

41,4!  1.966 

1,895,1  16 

1803 

27,992,464. 

31.578.495 

1,788,768 

3  804 

29,201,490       » 

34,45  1.357  s 

1,802,063 

;-3'»5 

;;05?44,628 

34,954j845 

1,857,652 

ENGLANI>. 

'§85 

\*ear; 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Tonnage, 

1806 

31,094,089 

36,528,132 

1,897,603 

1807 

28,854,658 

34.566,570 

1,791,072 

1808 

27,186,025 

34,554,267  . 

1,425,592 

1809 

30,4j6,560 

50,301,763 

l,99:i,lS8 

The  extent  of  the  commercial  shipping  of  the  British  empire- 
was,  September  30,  1805,  as  follows  : 


Ships. 

Tons. 

Men  and  Boys; 

England 

14,790 

1,799,210 

117,668 

Jersey  Isles 

185 

16,528 

2,011 

Man 

404 

9,650 

<)  ""i  *^  *: 

Scotland 

2,58  I 

210,295 

15,150 

Ireland 

1,067 

56,806 

5,'i70 

The  Plantations 

a,024 
22,051 

190,953 

15,467 

Total 

2,283,442 

157,712 

The  annual  income  of  Great-Britain  was  estimated  in  1799,  by 
Mr.  Pitt,  at  102,000,000  ;  and  including  the  money,  of  which  the 
estim:ite  is  far  from  certain,  the  wiiole  capital  of  Great-Britain 
may  perhaps  be  calculated  at  more  than  one  thousand  two  hun- 
dred \nil  lions. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  The  climate  of  Great-Britain  is  perhaps 
more  variable  than  that  of  any  other  country  on  the  globe.  Scot- 
land is  of  a  clearer  and  drier  temperature  than  that  of  liugland» 
The  humidity  of  the  climate  clothes  the  meadows  with  verdure  ; 
but  is  injurious  to  the  health  of  tlie  inhabitants. 

The  year  might  properly  be  divided  into  eight  months  of  winter, 
and  four  of  summer.  June,  July,  August,  and  vSeptember,  are  usu- 
ally  warm  summer  months  ;  but  a  night  of  frost  is  not  univiiowny 
even  in  August.  Tlie  winter  may  be  said  to  commence  witn  the 
beginning  of  October,  at  which  time  domestic  fires  become  neces- 
sary ;  but  there  is  seldom  any  severe  frosi  till  Christmas,  and  Janu- 
ary is  the  most  stern  moiith  of  the  year  March  is  generally  the 
most  unsettled  month  of  the  year,  interspersed  with  diy  frosts,  cold 
rains,  and  strong  winds,  with  storms  of  liail  and  5le<  t. 

I^ace  of  the  Country.  From  t!ie  mouth  of  the  Tweed  to  Barn- 
borough,  extends  a  sandy  shore.  Thence  to  FlamborougJr-head, 
are  mostly  low  cliffs,  of  lime-stonf.  and  other  materials.  Scar- 
borough stands  on  a  vast  rock,  projecting  into  tiie  waves  ;  but 
Flamborough-head  is  a  faiiniore  magnificcni  olject,  being  formed 
of  lime-stone,  of  a  snowy  whiteness,  and  stupendous  height,  visible 
far  off  at  sea. 

Hence  to  the  Humber  are  commonly  clay  clilTs.  The  extensive 
coast  of  Lincolnshire  is  "flat,  and,  piobably  gained  from  the  sea. 
The  county  of  Lincoln,  \in>'!  part  of  six  others,  are  the  low  countries 
of  Britain;  ai.d  the  coast  is  distinguislrahie  by  churches,  not  br 
hills.  The  shores  of  Norfolk  and  Suffolk  present  sometimes 
loamy  or  clayey  precipices,  sf-meti  iks  hiiio' ks  of  sand,  and  some- 
times low  and  flat  spaces.  Hunstanton  cliff  rises  to  the  heiiiiit  •€ 
49 


385  ENGLAND. 

about  eighty  feet,  composed  of  chalk  and  friable  stone,  resting  o«i_' 
a  base  of  what  is  called  iron-colored  puddint>:-slone,  projecting^  in- 
to the  sea.     The  coast  of  Essex  is  s:«nerally  low  ;  but  to  the  soutiv 
of  the  Thames,  arise  continued  cliffs  of  chalk,  with  layers  of  flint,.- 
resembling  masonry.     The  north  Foreland  is  a  lofty  chalky  pro- 
montory ;  and  the  cliffs   of  Dover  are  known   to  every  reader  of 
Shakespeare. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  is  greatly  diversified,  but  in  gen^- 
rral  fertile  ;  and  in  no  country  is  agriculture  more  thoroughly  un- 
dertood,  or  pursued  in  a  grander  style,  except,  perhaps,  in  Flan- 
ders and  Lombardy. 

The  cultivated  acres  in  England  and  Wales  are  compirted  at 
upwards  of  39,000,000,  while  those  unrultivat^.vj  are  7,888,777.  Of 
these  it  is  supposed  that  not  above  half  a  miliion  is  wholly  unim- 
provable, and  perhaps  a  milliun  is  only  fit  for  plantations,  while  of 
the  remainder  one  quarter  is  fit  for  tillage,  and  three  fourths  for 
meadow  and  upland  pasture.  The  grain  of  every  kind  annually 
consumed  in  Englandrforthree  years  ending  in  1809,  was  20,600,800 
quarters  ;  ajid  in  Scotland,  3,988,400  ;  total  24,589,200.  Of  this 
y^  part  is  imported,  and  Jg-  part  from  Ireland.  So  that  only  be- - 
tween  ^\   and  ^\    part  comes  from  foreign  countries. 

Horticulture,  or  the  art  of  gardening,  is  also  pursued  in  England 
■with  great  assiduity  and  success.  The  large  supply  of  the  capital' 
in  vegeta!)les  and  fruits,  and  the  high  prices  given  for  early  pro- 
duce, occasion  such  a  spirit  of  cultivation,  tliut  each  acre  thus  em= 
ployed,  is  supposed  to  yield  about  120/.  annually,  the  yearly  con- 
sumption in  the  metropolis  being  computed  at  more  than  1 ,000,000/.. 
Of  ornamental  gardens,  laid  out  with  a  just  attention  to  the  beau- 
ties of  nature,  and  free  from  the  uncouth  affectations  of  art,  Eng- 
land is  deservedly  regarded  as  the  parent  country. 

Rivers.  England  is  intersected  by  four  important  rivers,  tha: 
Severn,  the  Thames,  the  Humber,  and  the  Mersey. 

Tlie  Severn  passes  by  Shrewsbury  and  Gloucester,  into  the  Bris- 
tol Channel,  a  progress  of  about  150  miles,  navigable  as  far  as 
Welch-pool.  Its  chief  tributary  streams  are  the  Northern  and 
Southern  Avons,  the  Teme  and  the  Wye. 

The  Thames  maintains  a  south-easterly  direction,  to  its  egress 
into  the  German  ocean.  Its  course  is  computed  at  140  milesj 
navigable  to  Cricklade. 

The  Humber  is  a  name  almost  confined  to  a  large  estuary,  whicii 
receives  many  considerable  rivers,  that  fertilize  the  central  parts 
of  England. 

Mountains.  Bennevis,  the  highest  Taountain  in  Scotland,  is  not 
much  above  one  quarter  of  the  height  of  Mont  Blanc,  the  sove- 
reign of  the  Alps,  and  the  English  and  Welch  summits  aspire  to 
heights  still  less  considerable  ;  Snowdon  being  only  3568  English 
feet  above  the  sea,  while  Bennevis  is  4387.  Wharn,  in  Ybrkshirej 
was  estimated  at  4050 ;  and  Ingleborough  at  5280  feet. 

The  mountains  of  Cheviot  may  be  said  to  forni  a  regular  ridge> 
running  from  the  south-west,  where  they  join  those  of  Galloway.; 
to  the  nort!>ea«t, 


ENGLAND.  38,7 

Wales  is  a  country  abundant  in  mountains,  especially  the  north- 
r>rn  provinces. 

Mineralogy.  The  tin  mines  in  Cornwall  arc,  it  is  supposed,  the 
richest  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  That  kind  of  silver,  termed  by 
mineralogists  horn  ore,  is  also  found  in  that  district;  but  the  pro- 
found secrecy  observed  in  working;  it,  forbids  any  inveslij^ation  of 
the  amount.  The  Huel  rock  boasts  ef  what  is  called  beil-melal 
ore  ;  and  of  wolfram. 

Cornwall  also  produces  copper  at  Redruth,  Alstonc,  and  the 
Land's  End.  The  same  metal  is -found  in  Yorkshire  and  Stafford- 
shire J  but  no  where  in  such  abundance  as  in  thcParrys  mountain, 
in  the  northwest  of  Anglesea.* 

Lead  is  found  in  the  Mendip-hili,  Somersetshire  ;  which  also 
produces  calamLne  and  manganese.  The  lead-mines  in  Derbyshire 
are  well  known,  not  only  for  that  metal,  but  for  the  beautiful  veins 
-of  fiuor,  which  accomany  it,  and  which  is  manufactured  into  sev- 
€ral  ornamental  articles.  In  general  the  northern  central  ridge 
of  mountains  abounds  with  lead-ore.  The  lead  mines  of  Alston, 
on  the  eastern  verge  of  Cumberland,  employ. about  1 100  men. 

The  most  remarkable  mines  of  iron,  are  those  of  Colcbrookdale, 
Shropshire,  Dean-forest  in  Gloucestershire,  with  some  in  the  north 
of  England,  particularly  near  Ulverston,  in  Lancashire. 

Zinc  is  found  in  Derbyshire,. Denbighshire,  Cornwall,  and  other 

regions.     Nickel  and  arsenic  sometimes  appear  in  Cornwall ;  and 

recently,  what  is  called  menaclianite.     But  one  of  the  most  impor- 

•tant  of  this  kind  is  plumbago,  or  black  lead,  which  is  found  in  the 

•  ridge  of  Borrodale,  near  Keswic,  in  Cumberland  :  the  mine  is  onl}'' 

•opened  at  certain  intervals  of  time. 

The  mines  of  coal  are  found  in  the  central,  northern,  and  west- 
ern parts,  but  particularly  the  northein  around  Newcastle.     Turf 
■®i'  peat  is  common,  in  Hampshire,  and  other  southern  counties. 

The  mines  of  rock  salt,  in  Cheshire,  must  not  be  omitted.  The 
innuense  mines  on  the  south  side  of  Norihwich,  were  discovered 
about  the  beginning  of  the  last  century.  The  quarries  witli  their 
pillars  and  crystal  roof,  extending  over  many  acres,  present  a  beau- 
tiful spectacle  ;  the  stratum  of  salt,  lies  imder  a  bed  of  whitish 
clay,  at  the  depth  of  about  forty  yards.  The  first  stratum  is  about 
-twenty  yards  thick,  so  solid  as  to  be  blasted  with  gunpowder;  this 
salt  resembles  brown  sugar  candy.  Next  is  a  bed  of  hard  stone, 
under  which  is  a  second  stratum  of  salt,  about  six  yards  thick,  in 
some  pans  brown,  in  others  as  clear  as  crystal.  The  Witton  pit 
is  circular,  108  yards  in  diameter,  the  roof  supported  by  twenty- 
five  pillars,  each  containing  294  solid  yards  of  rock  salt ;  the  whole 
covering  near  two  acres  of  land.  The  annual  produce  of  rock  salt 
at  Northwicii,  has  been  estimated  at  65,000  tonii ;  of  which  about 
two  thirds  used  to  be  exported  to  Flanders  and  the  Baltic. 

Marbles,  and  free-stone,  or  calcareous  sand-stone  of  various  col- 
ors and  textures,  also  occur.     Fine  alabaster  appears  in  Derby- 
vshire  ;  fullers-earth  in  Berkshire,  and  some  other  counties. 

•Aiken's  Wales,  133. 


m  SCOTLAND,  • 

ENGLISH  ISLES. 

In  the  Southern,  or  Enp,lish  channel,  first  appears  the  Isle  of 
Wight,  of  an  oval  form,  20  miles  long,  and  12  broad.  This  isle  is 
fertile  and  beautiful,  and  decorated  with  mai.y  picturesque  villas  ;, 
the  principal  haven  is  that  of  Newport.  The  population  of  the 
island  in  1801,  was  24000. 

At  the  distance  of  about  TO  miles  from  Wight,  to  the  S.  W. 
arises  the  little  ibland  of  Alderney  ;  which  is  afterwards  followed 
by  the  more  important  isles  ot  Guernsey  and  Jersey.  Guernsey, 
the  largest  of  these  islc3,  is  twelve  miles  long,  nine  broad.  It  is  a 
verdant  isle,  though  hilly,  and  barrtn  of  wood.  The  only  town  is 
that  of  Port  St.  Pierre.*  Tiie  population  of  the  island  in  1  SO  i ,  was 
2  1,500.  Jersey  is  about  twelve  miles  in  length,  and  six  in  breadth, 
a  well  watered  and  fertile  island,  producing  excellent  butter  and 
honey.  The  winters  are  milder  than  in  England.  The  northern 
side  of  the  island  is  high,  but  the  southern  subsides  into  pleasant 
vales  covered  with  ovchaKls.  The  remarkable  places  are  the  two 
tOM^ns  of  St.  Helier  and  St.  Aubin,  both  standing  on  a  bay,  opening 
to  the  south  ;  and  the  castle  of  Mont  Orgueil.  Tl.e  inhabuants  of 
Jersey  are  computed  at  20,000,  of  whom  3000  are  capable  of  bear- 
ing arms.  Alderney  is  a  small  isle,  with  a  town,  and  about  1000 
inhabitants  in  all.     Sark  has  about  300  inhabhaius  t 

About  thirty  miles  to  the  west  of  the  Lanc'b  End,  appear  the 
isles  of  SciLLY.  This  cluster  is  said  to  consist  of  145  isles,  cover- 
ed with  grass  or  moss,  besides  innumerable  dreary  rocks.  The 
largest  isle  is  that  of  St.  Mary,  which  is  about  five  miles  in  circuit, 
and  has  a  castle  and  garrison  :  Inhabitants  about  600.  Tr.at  of  St. 
Agnes  is  rather  fertile  ;  inhabitants  ab<iut  300.  The  whole  inhab- 
itants of  the  Scilly  isles  are  computed  at  about  1000.  The  cattle 
and  horses  smaU  ;  but  sheep  and  labbits  thrive  v*ell.  Considera- 
ble quantities  of  kelp  are  prepared  amid  tiiese  rocks.| 

The  last  English  isle  worth  notice  is  that  of  Man  ;  it  is  about 
30  miles  in  length,  and  15  hi  its  greatest  breadth  ;  well  stored  witli, 
black  cattle,  and  sheep  ;  and  the  population  has  of  late  years  great- 
ly increased.  The  chief  places  are  Douglas  and  Casll«town,  and 
there  are  some  considerable  villages.  The  population  in  1801  was. 
about  30,000. 


SCOTLAND. 

Jijcieni.  SCOTLAND  extends  from  lat.  54  44  to  lat.  58  45,  z 
iength  of  280  miles  ;  its  breadth  is  180  n-.ilcs.  The  land  however, 
b  so  indented  by  arms  of  the  sea,  that  the  breadth  is  very  vanous^ 
and  no  part  is  distant  above  40  miles  from  the  coast.  The  nura» 
ber  of  sqtiare  miles  is  estimated  at  27,794. 

*  Guernsey  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  its  small  breed  of  cattle. 
f  Goujjh's  Camden,  ill.  753. 
^Gough's  Camden,  jii.  753, 


SCOTLAND. 


JS9 


Boundaries.  Scotland  is  bounded  W.  and  N.  Ly  tlie  Atlaniic  ; 
E.  by  the  German  Ocean,  and  S,  by  Ent^laiid. 

Divisions.  Scotlaiid  is  divided  naturally  into  Highlands  and 
Lowlands.  The  Highland  district  is  in  the  N.  and  N.  W.  This 
district  is  2(jO  miles  long,  and  from  80  lo  100  broad. 

The  Lowlaiid  district  corriprises  ihe  E.  S.  E.  and  S.  W.  parts  of 
the  country.  Scotland  is  also  divided  witri  equal  propriety  into 
three  divisions,  ihe  northern^  middle^  and  southtrn. 

Scotland  is  divided  into  the  following  counties,  which,  in  1801, 
bad  ths  number  of  inhabiiants  annexed. 


COUNriES 

INHABITANTS 

'Orkney  and  Shetland 

-     46,8J4 

Caithness        -         -         . 

2ii,609 

Northern 

Sutherland          ... 

-     23,117 

Division. 

RoSs       -         -         -         - 

53,525 

Cromarty            ... 

-        3,052 

^Inverness        -        .        - 

74,292 

"Argylc        -         -         -         - 

-     75,700 

Bute                .        _        - 

11,791 

Nairne       -        -         -         - 

8,257 

Murray,  or  Elgin 

26,705 

Banff         -        - 

-     35,807 

Aberdeen      -         -         - 

123,071 

Midland 

Mearns,  or  Lincardine 

-     26,349 

Division. 

Angus,  or  Forfar 

99,127 

Perth         -        -        .        - 

126,366 

Fife 

93,743 

Kinross      -        -        -        - 

6,725 

Clackmannan 

10,858 

Stirling                .         _         . 

-     50,825 

^Dumbarton 

20,710 

'West-Lothian,  or  Linlithgow 

-      17,844 

Mid-Lothian,  or  Edinburgh 

122,954 

East-Lothian,  or  Haddington 

-      29,986 

Berwick          .        .        - 

30,206 

Renfrew             _        -        _ 

-     78,056 

Southern 
Division. 

Ayr 

Wigton     -        -        -        - 

Lanark            _         -        - 

84,306 

-     22,918 

147,796 

Peebles     -        -        -        - 

8,717 

Selkirk           •        -        - 

5,070 

Roxburg             -         -        - 

-     33,712 

Dumfries        _        -        - 

54,597 

Kirkudbright      -         -         - 

-     29,211 

Historical  Efiochs.  The  original  population  of  Scotland  by  the 
Cimbri,  and  by  the  Picti. 

The  introduction  of  Christianity  among  the  Caledonians,  in  thfr 
j'cign  of  Brudi  \\.  A.  D.  565. 

The  reign  of  Malcolm  HL  A.  D.  1056;  from  which  period 
greater  civilization  began  to  take  place,  and  the  history  becomes 
more  authentic. 


:90  SCOTLANB. 

The  extinction  of  the  ancient  line  of  kings,  in  the  person  of  Mav- 
|!;aret,  of  Norway,  grand-daughter  of  Alexander  111.  A.  D.  1290. 
This  event  occasioned  the  arbitrary  interposition  of  Edward  I. 
king  of  England,  which  was  the  sole  source  of  the  enmity  which 
afterwards  unhappily  prevailed  between  the  kingdoms. 
'  The  accession  of  the  house  of  Stuart  to  the  Scottish  throne;  a. 
family  which  produced  most  ingenious  and  intelligent,  but  most 
unfortunate  princes. 

The  establishment  of  the  Protestant  religion,  A.  D.  1560. 

The  union  of  the  tM'o  crowns,  by  the  accession  of  James  VI.  to 
the  English  sceptre,  A.  D.  1603. 

The  civil  wars,  and  the  subsequent  disputes  between  the  Pres- 
byterians and  the  Independents ;  causes  that  extinguished  all 
sound  literature  in  Scotland,  for  the  space  of  twenty  years,  A.  D. 
1640-1660. 

The  revolution  of  1688,  and  the  firm  establishment  of  the  Pres- 
byterian system. 

The  union  of  the  two  kingdoms  in  1707. 

The  abolition  of  the  hereditary  jurisdictions,  1755,  which  laid 
the  first  foundation  of  the  subsequent  prosperity  of  Scotland. 

Religion.  Protestantism  in  ll'.e  Presbyterian  form  was  establish- 
ed in  1560.  In  1578,  an  attempt  was  made  to  establish  Episcopa- 
cy. Scotland  was  parctUed  out  into  two  archbishoprics,  St.  An- 
drews, and  Glasgow  ;  and  twelve  bishoprics.  This  continued 
the  established  religion  till  1688.  All  this  time  the  country  was 
distracted  by  the  quarrels  of  the  Episcopalians,  Presbyterians,  and 
Independents.  In  1688,  Presbyterianism  was  reestablished  and  is 
now  the  national  religion.  In  1732,  a  large  body  of  the  Piesbyte- 
rians  seceded  from  the  establishment.  They  preserved  the  same 
.form  of  church  government,  but  were  more  strict  in  their  senti- 
ments, than  those  whom  they  left  behind.  In  1747  the  Seceders 
were  subdivided  into  Burghers  and  Antiburghers.  The  former  al- 
low the  oaths  taken  by  the  burgesses  of  the  royal  boroughs  to  be 
legal:  the  latter  object.     The  former  are  the  most  numerous. 

Many  respectable  families  embrace  the  Episcopal  form  of  the 
church  of  England.  The  other  sectaries  are  not  numerous.  There 
are  few  Roman  Catholics,  even  in  the  remote  Highlands;  the 
scheme  ol  education  being  excellent,  and  generally  supported  with 
liberality. 

The  Presbyterian  form  of  religion  is  prevailingly  Calvinistic  in 
hs  doctrines,  and  establishes  an  entire  equality  of  ecclesiastical  au- 
thority among  its  clergy.  The  revenues  of  the  clergy  also  have 
been  nearly  equal,  none  have  been  more  than  200  pounds  sterling, 
and  none  less  than  50  pounds  per  annum.  By  a  late  act  of  parlia- 
ment the  smaller  revenues  have  all  been  raised  to  150  pounds. 

There  are  four  grades  of  ecclesiastical  courts,  the  General  As' 
acmbly.  Provincial  Synoda^  Presbyteries.,  and  Kirk  Sessions.  1st. 
The  General  Assembly  is  the  highest  ecclesiastical  court  in  Scot- 
land, and  may  v^ith  propriety  be  termed  the  Ecclesiastical  Parlia- 
ment. It  consists  of  commissioners,  some  of  whom  are  laymen, 
from  presbyteries,  royal  boroughs,  and  universities.     One  of  the 


SCOTLAND  391 

coiumissioners,  usually  a  nobleman  of  high  rank,  represents  the 
king.  A  moderator  is  chosen  by  the  assembly,  who  presides  and 
regulates  the  proceedings.  This  i^  the  high  court  of  appeals  from 
the  other  ecclesiastical  courts,  and  its  decisions  are  final.  Its  au-» 
thority  extends  over  Scotland.  2d.  Provincial  Synods  are  compos- 
ed of  delegates  from  a  number  of  adjacent  presbyteries,  over  which 
they  have  power.  3d.  Presbyteries  are  composed  of  delegates 
from  a  number  of  adjacent  parishes.  They  inspect  the  behavior 
of  the  ministers  and  elders  of  their  respective  bounds,  ordain  pas- 
tors, examine  and  licence  sclioolmasters,  Sec.  4th.  The  Kirk  Ses- 
sion, composed  of  the  minister,  elders,  and  deacons  of  a  parish,  is 
the  lowest  ecclesiastical  court.  It  has  the  superintendence  of  the 
poor,  visits  the  sick,  and  assists  the  clergyman  in  his  clerical 
functions. 

The  following  is  a  view  of  the  ecclesiastical  establishment  of 
Scotland,  as  divided  into  synods  and  presbyteries,  with  the  num- 
l»er  of  ministers  in  each  synod,  in  1 803. 


Synods. 

Presbyteries. 

Minister! 

Lothian  and  Tweeddale 

- 

7 

116 

Merse  and  Teviotdale 

- 

6 

66 

Dumfries 

. 

5 

54 

Qalloway            .         -         - 

- 

3 

37 

5  Glasgow  and  Ayr 

- 

7 

13a 

Perth  and  Stirling 

- 

5 

80 

Fife 

- 

4 

71 

Angus  and  Meai'ns     - 

- 

6 

81 

Aberdeen       -         -         - 

- 

8 

10! 

10  Moray       -         -         -         - 

- 

7 

54 

Ross               -         _         _ 

- 

3 

23 

Sutherland  and  Caithness 

- 

3 

23 

Argyle            _         -         - 

- 

5 

41 

Glenelg 

- 

5 

29 

IS  Orkney           -         -         - 

- 

4 

30 

78  936 

These  936  clergymen  are  settled  over  877  churches,  31  of  the 
churches  being  collegiate.  The  Scotch  clergy  deserve  the  high- 
est praise,  as  men  of  enlightened  minds,  and  unblemished  life. 

The  Seceders  are  also  very  numerous.  The  Burghers  have 
about  100  ministers,  and  each  has,  at  a  medium,  a  congregation  of 
about  1000.     The  number  of  the  Antiburghers  is  less. 

Govermyient.  The  government  of  Scotland,  since  the  union, 
has  been  blended  with  that  of  England. 

The  Scots  are  represented  in  the  impel ial  parliament  by  IS 
peers,  elected  by  the  nobility  by  writ  at  the  calling  of  every  par- 
liament, who  sit  and  vote  in  the  house  of  lords.  To  the  house 
of  commons,  Scotland  sends  45  members,  viz,  30  knights  of  iht, 
shires,  and  15  from  the  royal  boroughs. 


392  SCOTLAND. 

Laws.  The  law  of  Scotland  differs  essentially  from  that  ^i 
England.  Of  com  non  law  ihore  is  hardly  a  trace,  while  the  civil 
and  canon  laws  may  be  said  to  form  the  two  pillars  of  Scottish  ju" 
dicature.  The  modes  of  proceuuie  have,  however,  the  advantage 
of  being  free  from  many  of  chose  legal  fictions,  which  disgrace  the 
laws  of  some  other  counuics. 

Pofmlation.  The  poptilation  of  Scotland,  in  1755,  was  1,265,380  ; 
in  1793,  1,527.892;  and  in  1801,  1,604,826.  The  increase  in  46 
years  was  339,146,  or  a  little  more  than  26  and  |  per  cent. 

The  army,  navy,  revenues,  political  importance  and  relations 
of  Scotland,  are  no^y  inseparably  intermingled  with  those  of  En- 
gland. 

Manner  ft  a?id  Customs.  The  manners  and  customs  of  the  Scots 
begin  to  be  much  assimilated  with  those  of  the  English. 

In  the  luxuries  of  the  table  the  superior  classes  rival  the  Eng- 
lish. The  sobriety  of  the  lower  classes  is  in  general  exemplary, 
Thry  arc  ambilious  to  appear  with  their  families  in  decent  clothes 
on  Sundays  and  other  holidays.  This  may  be  regarded  as  a  strik- 
ing characteristic  of  the  Scottish  peasantry,  who  prefer  the  lasting 
decencies  of  life  to  momentary  gratifications.  To  this  praise  may 
be  added,  that  of  intelligence,  arising  from  the  diffusion  of  educa- 
tion, which  is  such,  that  even  the  miners  in  the  south  possess  a  cir- 
culating library. 

Language.  The  Scottish  language  falls  under  two  divisions, 
that  of  the  Lowlands,  consisting  of  the  ancient  Scandinavian  dia- 
lect, blended  with  the  Anglo-Saxon,  and  that  of  the  Highlands, 
which  is  Irish. 

Literature.  One  of  the  earliest  native  writers  is  Thomas  of 
Erceldon,  called  the  Rhymer,  who  flourished  about  the  year  1270, 
and  wrote  a  metrical  romance,  called  Sir  Tristram,  now  unfortu- 
nately lost. 

The  Scottish  muse  continued  to  warble  till  the  middle  of  the  sev- 
enteenth century,  when  religious  fanaticism  extinguished  all  the 
arts  and  sciences.  In  more  modern  times  the  names  of  Thom- 
son, Blair,  Armstrong,  Beattie,  Burns,  8cc.  are  universally  known. 

The  other  departments  of  science  are  of  yet  more  recent  culti- 
vation in  Scotland  ;  even  theology  seems  unknown  till  the  begin- 
ning of  the  sixteenth  century  ;  and  of  medicine  there  is  no  trace  tiU 
the  seventeenth  ;  Avhile  Edinburgh  now  ranks  among  the  first  me- 
dical schools  of  Europe.  Natural  philosophy  and  history  were  to- 
tally neglected  till  after  the  Restoration ;  yet  Scotland  can  now 
produce  able  writers  in  almost  every  branch,  and  equal  progress 
has  been  made  in  m.oral  'philosophy. 

Education.  The  mode  of  education  pursued  in  Scotland  i^ 
bighly  laudable,  and  to  judge  from  its  effects  is,  perhaps,  the  best 
practical  hystem  pursued  in  any  country  in  Europe.  The  superi- 
or advantage  of  t!ie  Scottish  education  consists  in  every  country 
parish  possessing  a  schoolmaster,  as  uniforndy  as  a  clergyman  ;  at 
least  the  rule  is  general,  and  the  exceptions  are  rare.  In  the  High- 
lands the  poor  children  attend  to  the  flocks  in  the  summer,  and  the 
school  in  the  winter.     There  is  no  country  on  the  globe,  except 


SCOTLAND.  S53 

New-England,  in  which  the  education  of  the  poor  is  so  universally 
attended  to. 

Universities.  There  are  four  universities  in  Scotland,  three  oa 
the  eastern  coast,  St.  Andrew's,  Aberdeen  and  Edhiburgh;  and 
one  on  the  western,  that  of  Glasgow,  all  celebrated,  particularly 
the  two  last. 

Cities  and  Towns.  Edinburgh,  the  capital,  is  comparatively  of 
modern  name  and  note.  Its  population  including  the  port  of  Leith, 
was,  in  1  678,  computed  at  35pOO  ;  in  1755,  at  70,430  ;  and  in  1791j 
at  84,885. 

The  whole  numher  of  inliabitants  in  the  old  and  and  new  town  of 
Ediuburiijii  together  witli  the  suburbs  and  tlie  sea  ports  of  north 
and  south  Lcith  were  found  i>y  actual  enumeration  in  1301  to 
amount  to  82,560. 

The  arrivals  and  clearances  at  Leith  Harbor,  exceed  the  num^ 
ber  of  1700  vessels  of  various  dcscripdons.  The  commerce  has 
been  stated  at  half  a  million  annually. 

The  houses  in  the  olJ  town  are  sometimes  of  remarkable 
height,  not  less  than  thirteen  or  fourteen  floors,  a  singularity  as- 
cribed to  the  wish  of  the  ancient  inhabitants,  of  being  under  the 
protection  of  the  castle.  The  new  town  is  deservedly  celebrated 
for  regularity  and  elegance,  the  houses  being  all  of  free -stone,  and 
some  of  thcin  ornamented  v;ith  pillars  and  pilasters. 

The  second  city  in  Scotland  is  Glasgow.  The  population  in 
1755,  was  computed  at  23,546,  including  the  suburbs  ;  the  niimber 
in  1791,  was  61,945  ;  and  in  1801,  77,385.  The  ancient  city  was 
rather  venerable  than  beautiful,  but  recent  improvements  have  ren- 
dered it  one  of  the  neatest  cities  in  Scotland,  Its  v/est'ern  situation 
exposes  it  to  frequent  rains,  a  disadvantage  recompensed  by  its 
favorable  position  for  commerce  with  America  and  the  West-In- 
dies. Its  commerce  hus  arisen  to  great  content  since  the  year 
1718,  when  the  first  ship  that  belonged  to  Glasgow  crossed  the 
Atlantic. 

Perth  is  an  ancient  town,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  v/estcrn  bank, 
of  the  Tay  ;  and  has  been  known  in  commerce  since  the  thirteenth 
century.  Linen  forms  tlie  staple  manufacture,  to  the  annual 
amount  of  about  160,000/.  Tbci^e  are  also  manufactures  of  leather 
and  paper.  Perth  displays  few  public  edifices  v/orth  notice.  In^ 
habitants,  about  23,000. 

About  18  miles  nearer  the  mouth  of  tiie  Tay,  stands  Dundee,  in 
the  county  of  Angus,  a  neat  modern  town.  The  friih  of  Tay  is 
here  between  two  and  three  miles  broad  ;  and  there  is  a  good  road 
for  shipping  to  the  east  of  the  tov,m,  as  far  as  Broughty-castle!. 
The  population  is  26,084  ;  the  public  edifices  arc  neat  and  com- 
modious. In  1792,  the  vessels  belonging  to  the  port,  amounted  to 
1 16.  The  staple  manufacture  is  linen,  to  the  annual  value  of  about 
80,000/.  canvass,  &c.  about  40,000/.  Colored  thread  also  forms  a 
considerable  article,  computed  at  33,000/.  and  tanned  leather  at 
14,000/. 

Aberdeen  first  rises  to  notice  in  the  eleventh  century.     The  pop-^ 
ulation  in  1795  was  computed  at  24.493,  and  in    180J    at  2.7,50.'i|. 
50 


394  SCOTLAND. 

Though  the  harbor  be  not  remarkably  commodious,  it  has  a  con* 
siderable  trade,  the  chief  exports  being  salmon  and  woollen  goods. 

Greenock  and  Port-Glasgow,  are  considerable  towns,  which 
have  arisen  to  celebrity,  by  sharing  in  the  trade  of  Glasgow. 
Greenock  contains  17,458  inhabitants  ;  Port-Glasgow  about  3,865. 
Paisley,  in  the  same  county,  is  celebrated  by  its  manufacture  of 
muslins,  lawns,  and  gauzes,  to  the  annual  amount,  it  is  said,  of 
660,000/.  The  population  amounts  to  31,179.  Dumbarton,  on 
the  opposite  shore  of  the  Clyde,  contains  about  2,541  souls,  and  is 
also  subservient  in  the  manufactures  of  Glasgow. 

Inland  Nuuigation.  The  most  remarkable  inland  navigation 
in  Scotland,  is  the  excellent  and  exti^nsive  canal  from  the  Forth 
to  tlie  Clyde,  commenced  in  1768,  from  a  survey  by  Smeaton  foui; 
years  before.  Its  depth  is  seven  feet ;  its  breadth  at  the  surface 
iifty-six  feet ;  the  locks  are  seventy-five  feet  long,  and  their  gates 
twenty  feet  wide.  It  is  raised  from  the  Carron  by  twenty  locks,  in 
a  tiact  of  ten  miles,  to  the  amazing  height  of  155  feet  above  the 
medium  full  sea  mark.  At  the  tuenlieth  lock  begins  the  canal  of 
partition  on  the  summit,  between  the  east  and  west  seas  ;  whicli 
canal  of  panition  continues  eighteen  miles  on  a  level,  terminating 
at  Hanulton-iiill,  a  mile  N.  AV.  of  the  Clyde,  at  Glasgow.  In  some 
places  the  canal  is  carried  through  mossy  ground,  and  in  others 
throui^h  solid  rock.  In  the  fourth  mile  of  the  canal  there  are  ten 
locks,  and  a  fine  aqueduct  bridge,  which  crosses  the  great  road 
leading  from  Edinburgh  to  Glasgow.  At  Kirkintuilock,  the  cantil 
is  carried  over  the  water  of  Logic,  on  an  aqueduct  bridge,  the  arch 
of  which  is  ninety  feet  broad.  There  are  in  the  whole  eighteen 
draw  bridges,  and  fifteen  acqueduct  bridges,  of  considerable  size^ 
besides  small  ones  and  tunnels. 

The  supplying  the  canal  with  water  was  of  itself  a  very  greet 
wcwk*  One  reservoir  is  above  twenty-four  feet  deep,  and  covers  a 
surface  of  fifty  acres,  near  Kilsyth.  Anotlier,  about  seven  miles 
north  of  Glasgow,  consists  of  seventy  acres,  and  is  banked  up  at 
the  sluice,  twenty-two  feet. 

The  distance  between  the  Friths  of  Clyde,  and  Forth,  by  t)ie 
nearest  passage  by  sea,  that  of  the  Penlland  Frith,  is  600  miles,  by 
this  canal  scarcely  100.  On  the  28th  of  July,  1790,  the  canal  was 
completely  open  from  sea  to  sea,  when  a  hogshead  of  tiie  water  of 
Forth  was  poured  into  the  Clyde,  as  a  symbol  of  their  junctioiv 
The  length  of  tl.e  canal  is  precisely  thirty-five  miles,  and  no  work 
of  the  kind  can  be  more  ably  finislK-d. 

Manufactures  and  Coinmerce.  The  general  commerce  of  Scot?- 
land,  though  on  a  smaller  scale,  and  with  smaller  capitals,  is  in 
most  respects  similar  to  that  of  England,  and  shares  in  the  nation- 
al prosperity.  That  of  the  capital,  through  Leith  its  port,  has  been 
estimated,  at  half  a  million  yearly.  The  chief  exports  are  linen, 
grain,  iron,  glass,  lead,  wooilcn  stuffs,  soap,  &c.  &c.  The  imports 
are  wines,  brandy  ;  and  from  the  West-Indies  and  America,  runi, 
sugar,  rice,  indigo.  Glasgow  exports  cottons  of  all  kinds,  muslinb, 
lawns,  gauzes,  Sec.  glass,  stockings,  earthen  ware,  cordage,  &:c. 
candles,  soap,  iron,  leather,  &c.  8cc.     The  chief  imports  are  tobac/- 


SCOTLAND.  5^5 

.  .:<j,  sugar,  rum,  and  cotton,  from  the  West-Indies  ;  Iiish  beef,  biit- 
iier,  and  linen  ;  wines  from  Portugal  and  oiher  countries. 

The  herring  and  salmon  fisheries  on  the  coast,  the  whale  fish- 
ery in  Greenland  and  Davis's  Straits,  and  the  cod  fishery  on  the 
banks  of  Newfoundland,  are  prouucuve  ol  great  wealth  to  Scot- 
land, and  have  met  with  the  direct  patronage  of  the  government. 
The  exports  uf  Scotland  in  1800  amounted  to£2,346,069;  in  180S 
to  £2,504,867  ;  and  in  1809  lo  ;r4,o83,lOO.  In  1805  the  trade  em- 
ployed 2581  vessels,  amounting  to  210,295  tons,  and  15,160  sea- 
Tiien. 

The   annual   amount   of  the  linen  manufactures  is  said   to  be 

'X^SOjOOO.     Of  woollens,  Scotch  car/iets.,  ciieap,  neat  and  dui'able  ; 

caps,  and  stockings  form  the  chief  branch.     The  thread  munufac- 

lure  of  Scotland  is  uncommonly  excellent.     The  quantity  of  ardent 

•spirits  distilled  in 

1708"^  50,844"^ 

1760  '  145,460  '.         „ 

i^o.  S  was  oro^r-c  >  gallons. 

1784  j  258,503  j    ° 

1791 J  1,69  6,000  J 

The  iron  manufactures,  particularly  that  at  Caron,  deserve  als» 
to  be  enumer-ated  among  tue  chief  national  advantages.  In  1763, 
there  were  396  four»wheeled  carriages,  and  462  two-wheeled,  en- 
titled to  pay  du'y.  In  1790,  there  were  1427  of  the  first  kind,  and 
643  of  the  last. 

•Ciim-ate  and  Seasons.  In  the  eastern  parts,  there  is  not  so  much 
■humidity  as  in  England,  as  the  mountains  on  the  west  arrest 
the  vapors  from  the   Atlantic.     On   the  other  hand,  the  western 

•counties  are  deluged  with  rain,  an  insuperable  obstacle  to  the 
progress  of  agriculture.     Even  the  winter  is  more  distinguishable 

'by  the  abundance  of  snow,  than  by  tlie  intensity  of  the  trost;  but 
in  summer  the  heat  of  the  sun  is  reflected  with  great  power  in  tiie 

'iiarrow  vales  between  the  mountains.  T"hi.se  obscivations  chiefly 
apply  to  the  north   and   west,     in  the  east  and  south,  the  climate 

-differs  but  little  from  that  of  the  north  of  England. 

/'ace  of  the  Country.  The  face  of  the  country  is  in  general 
mountainous,  to  the   extent,  perhaps,  of  two  thirds;  whence  the 

^population  is  of  necessity  thin,  in  eoniparison  \a  ith  the  extent  of 
territory.  The  eastern  parts  have  liiile  of  uniform  flatness,  but 
are  agreeably  diversified  with  hill  and  dale.  The  rivers  in  gener- 
al are  remarkably  pure  and  transparent,  and  thcii  course  rapid. 
The  rich  roughness  of  an   English   prospect,  diversified  with  an 

=£bundance  of  wood,  even  in  the  hedge  rov/s,  is  in  Scotland  rare, 
•whence  the  nudity  of  the  country  makes  a  strong  impression  on 
the  stranger.  But  the  laudable  exertions  ol  many  of  the  nobility 
and  gentry,  who  plant  trees  by  millions,  wiii  soon  remove  this  re- 

'^proach. 

Rivers.     The  three  chief  rivers  of  Scotland,  are  the  Forth,  the 

'Clyde,  and  the  Tay. 

Next  in  consequence  and  in  fame,  is  the  Tweed,  a  beautiful  and 

-pastoral  stream,  whick,  receiving  the  Teviot  from  the  south,  near 

^Kelso,. falls  into  the  sea  at  13 er wick. 


;<*§«.  SCOTLAND, 

Lakes.  Among  the  lakes  of  Scotland,  the  chief  in  extent  and 
beauty  is  that  of  Lomond,  studded  with  romantic  islands,  and 
adorned  with  shoi'cs  of  the  greatest  diversity.  Its  suiface  con- 
tains upwards  of  20,000  acres  of  water.  It  has  about  thirty  islands 
scattered  over  it,  eleven  of  considerable  size.  These  and  the 
country  bordering  on  the  lake  are  distinguished  for  their  beauty- 
and  fertility.  The  Endric  falls  into  it  on  the  south  east,  and  its 
Avaters  are  discharged  through  the  Leven  into  the  Frith  of  Clyde. 
It  abounds  with  delicious  salmon  and  trout. 

The  country  from  Moray-Frith  to  the  sound  of  Mull  is  a  contin- 
ued valley  running  in  a  direction  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  and  is  al- 
■most  filled  with  extensive  lakes.  A  chain  of  lakes  and  rivers  pass- 
ing tbrough  it  almost  insulate  the  northern  division  of  Scotland. 

Lock  Linne  is  a  deep  narrow  arm  of  the  sea. 

Loch  Awe  in  Argyleshire  is  thirty  miles  long  and  from  one  to 
two  bioad.  It  contains  many  islands.  At  the  N.  E.  extremity 
xiscs  Ben  Cruachar  to  ;he  hcigl^t  of  3390  feet  above  its  surface, 
from  the  top  of  which  descends  the  river  tliat  forms  the  lake.  The 
scenery  of  this  lake  and  its  shores  is  remarkably  picturesque. 

Mou7itains.  The  chief  elevation  of  the  S.  W.  of  Scotland  is  the 
ridge,  called  the  Lead  Hills.  The  chief  summit  of  this  ridge  is 
Hanfell,  which  is  3300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  others  say 
2582.  To  the  east  we  find  the  uniform  ridge  of  Lamermoor,  ter- 
minating in  St.  Abb's  head. 

On  passing  the  Forth  appears  the  range  of  Ochill-hills,  more  re- 
markable for  their  singular  agates  and  chalcedonies,  than  for  their 
height.  On  the  northeast  of  Abcrdeenshiie  is  Mormond,  a  re- 
iTiarkable  solitary  summit ;  whence  no  mountains  of  note  occur  till 
Inverness,  on  the  west,  opens  the  path  to  the  Highlands. 

The  Grampian  hills  may  be  considered  as  a  grand  frontier 
chain,  extending  from  Loch  Lomond  to  Stonehaven,  and  forming 
the  soul  hern  boundary  of  the  Highlands.  Their  highest  summits^ 
are  from  3  to  4000  feet  high. 

Ben  Nevis  is  the  highest  mountain  in  Great-Britain,  being  esti- 
mated  at  4350  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  lies  in  the  parish 
of  Kihnalie,  in  Inverness-shire.  On  the  N.  E.  side  it  presents  a 
precipice,  nearly  perpendicular,  and  of  prodigious  height,  by  some 
accounts  1500  feet. 

To  the  N.  W.  of  Ben  Nevis  is  the  long  mountain  of  Corriarok, 
near  Fort  Augustus,  over  vhich  a  military  road  has  beee  directed, 
in  a  zig-zag  direction.  About  thirty  niilts  to  the  east  rises  the 
mountain  Cairngorm  (4060  feet.)  or  the  blue  mountain,  clothed. 
%yith  almost  perpeiual  snoAV. 

The  western  shore  is  crowded  with  hills,  from  the  island  of  Skey 
to  Cape  Wraih,  while  a  biaiich,  spreading  east\\ard  towards  Ord- 
head  (1250  feel)  forms  what  are  teinud  by  seamen  the  Paps  cf 
Caithness  (1929  itet)  The  chief  niountains  on  the  west  of  Ross- 
shire,  r.rc  I3cn  Chasker,  on  the  south  of  Loch  Broom  ;  and  Ben 
\ye vis  (3720  feet.) 

Gcntial  Roy  mentions  two  vemaikchle  features  of  the  High- 
landsj  fust  the  Moor  of  Rannock,  a  high  desevt  of  twenty  nule'S 


SCOTLAND.  S9f 

square,  of  the  S.  E.  of  Ben  Nevis,  a  flat  uninhabited  morass.  The 
second  part  of  the  N.  W.  coast,  extending  from  Loch  iiichard, 
twenty  four  miles  to  the  south,  breadth  about  ten  miits,  wiiich  prcr 
sents  a  most  singular  appearance,  as  if  niouniains  had  been  brok- 
en into  fraj^ments,  interbpersed  with  puois  of  water. 

Mineralogy.  The  chief  minerals  ol  Scoiidiid  are  lead,  iron,  and 
coal.  The  lead  mines  in  the  south  of  Laiiarksuire  have  long  been 
known.  Iron  is  found  in  various  parts  of  Scotland  ;  the  Carron 
ore  is  the  most  known,  it  is  an  argillaceous  iron-stone,  and  is  found 
in  slaty  masses,  and  in  nodules,  in  an  adjacent  coal-mine,  of  which 
it  sometimes  forms  the  roof.  At  the  Carron-works  this  ore  is  often 
smelted  with  the  red  j^reasy  iron  ore  from  Ulversion,  in  Lanca- 
shire, which  imparts  easier  fusion,  and  superhu-  value.  Calamine, 
or  zinc,  is  also  found  at  Wanlock-head  ;  and  it  is  said,  that  plum- 
bago and  antimony  may  be  traced  in  Scotland. 

But  the  chief  mineral  is  coal,  which  has  been  worked  for  a  suc- 
cession of  ages. 

In  passing  to  the  less  iinpcrtant  minerals  of  Scotland,  the  new 
earth  originally  found  at  Sironuan,  and  called  after  the  name  of 
the  place,  deserves  the  first  notice.  Fine  statuary  marble  is  found 
in  Assynt,  and  the  marble  of  Tiree  ranks  among  the  most  beauti- 
ful varieties. 

Aijnong  the  precious  stones  of  Scotland  are  the  sapphire,  of  diA 
ferent  shades,  from  a  deep  red,  to  a  transparent  white,  and  of  equal 
hardness  with  the  oriental ;  the  topaz,  of  various  huts,  generally 
in  hexahedral  crystals ;  the  ruby  and  hyacinth,  near  Ely  in  Fife- 
shire,  usually  small  and  of  inferior  lustre  ;  the  emerald  and  ame- 
thyst, frequently  to  be  met  with,  the  latter  often  very  large  and 
beautiful  ;  garnets  in  many  places  of  the  Higlilands,  large,  and 
frequent ;  agates  and  cornelians,  abundant,  and  unrivalled  in  their 
variety  and  beauty  ;  jaspers  in  almost  every  district,  some  of  great 
beauty  trnd  value  ;  the  chalcedony,  in  Fileshirc,  equal  in  hardness 
to  the  oriental  granite  ;  that  of  Vtcix  Nevis  equal  m  beauty  to  the 
Egyptian,  and  that  of  Portsoy  of  the  kind  caikd  Motcs's  Jadles, 
resembling  Hebrew  characters  on  a  while  ground. 

SCOTTISH  ISLES. 

The  islands  that  belong  to  Scotland  are  numerous  and  irr.por- 
tant,  and  fall  naturally  into  three  grand  divisions;  the  Hebudts,* 
or  Western  Islands  ;  the  Orkneys  ;  and  the  Shetland  Isles. 

Staffa,  one  of  the  Hcbudes,  near  Mull,  has  in  it  the  celebrated 
Grotto,  called  Fingal's  Cave.  It  is  on  the  W.  side  Jt  is  an  im- 
mense excavation  in  the  side  of  e  tnourtain  of  soliti  rock,  the  loof 
of  which  is  arched,  and  is  supported  by  nuniberltss  basaltic  pillars 
of  various  sizes  and  heights  of  3,  4-  5,  6,  and  7  sides,  the  ])entaronal 
and  hexagonal  being  most  numerous  1  hcse  colunais  are  nujstly 
above  fifty  feet  high.  The  bottom  of  thj  cave  is  filled  with  the 
sea,  reaching  to  the  very  extremity.  In  calm  weather  a  boat  may 
sail  in  safely  ;  but  if  the  waves  are  r.giiatt  d  in  a  slight  degree,  itir, 

*  This  name  was  corrupted  by  Rector  Boyce,  into  Hebr ideft 


'j.9h  SCOTLAND. 

:inevitably  dashed  to  pieces.  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  who  visited  it  in 
3  772,  gives  the  following  as  its  dimensions :  breadth  of  the  mouth 
53  feet ;  height  of  the  arch,  1 17  feet ;  length  250  feet. 

Leuis  is  the  principal  island  of  the  western  chain.  It  is  about 
.60  miles  in  length,  and  20  in  breadth.  The  face  of  the  country 
consists  of  a  heathy  elevated  ridge  full  of  morasses  from  the  S.  W. 
to  N.  E.  but  near  the  shores  are  several  verdant  vales  capable  of 
cultivation.  Stornaway  is  a  considerable  and  flourishing  town, 
■with  an  excellent  harbor,  and  contains  2974  inhabitants.  Besides 
collages,  there  are  about  seventy  houses  covered  with  slate.  The 
seasons  in  Leuis  are  oppressed  with  rain,  as  usual  in  the  western 
Highlands  and  isles ;  but  there  is  a  considerable  fishery.  The 
\:rops  are  oats,  bigg,  and  potatoes;  no  trees  will  thrive  except  ai- 
der and  mountain  ash  ;  and  hardly  a  shrub  appears  :  but  there  are 
many  black  cattle  and  sheep,  nor  is  there  any  want  of  small  horses. 
Population  of  the  whole  island  12,164. 

The  other  large  islands  of  the  group,  commencing  at  the  S. 
are  Arran,  Bute,  Ila,  lura.  Mull,  and  Skey. 

The  whole  population  of  the  Hebudes,  in  1801,  was  80,880. 

The  Orkneys  form  a  numerous  group  around  the  Main  Land,  or 
what,  by  some  new  and  fabulous  term,  is  called  Pomona.  The 
Main  Land  is  about  thirty  miles  in  length  E.  to  W.  by  about  thir- 
teen in  breadth  N.  to  S.  Kirkwall,  the  chief  town  of  the  Orkneys, 
contains  2,62 1  inhabitants,  and  has  a  stately  cathedral  dedicated 
to  St.  Magnas.  Opposite  stands  the  bishop's  palace,  now  called  a. 
-castle.  The  chief  exports  of  Kirkwall  are  beef,  pork,  butter  tal- 
iow,  hides,  calf  skins,  rabbit  skins,  salted  fish,  oil,  feathers,  linen 
yarn,  and  coarse  linen  cloth,  kelp,  and  in  fruitful  years  corn. 
The  chief  imports  are  wood,  fiax,  coal,  sugar,  spirits,  wines,  to- 
"bacco  and  snuff,  flour,  and  biscuit,  soap,  leather,  hardwares,  broad- 
cloth, printed  linens  and  cottons.  In  1790  the  exports  were  val- 
ued at  26,598/. ;  and  the  imports  at  20,803/.  The  harbor  is  excel- 
lent. The  manufactures  are  linen  yarn,  and  coarse  linens,  and 
kelp.  This  last  was  introduced  about  sixty  years  ago,  and  has 
been  since  diffused  over  the  Highlands  and  isles.  In  most  parts 
•of  the  main  land  the  soil  is  good,  though  shallow.  The  horses  are 
email  but  spirited  ;  and  the  cows,  though  also  small,  yield  excel- 
lent milk.  The  sheep  are  computed  at  50,000,  Swine  also 
abound,  of  a  dirty  white  color,  und  diminutive  size.  The  sea-fowl 
are  numerous.  The  Norse  language  has  yielded  to  the  English, 
and  the  manners  of  the  people  are  singularly  civilized  for  so  re- 
mote a  region.     Their  number  is  13,176. 

The  other  islands  are  Hoy,  North  and  South  Ronaldshay,  Sha- 
pinsha,  Rousa,  Stronsa,  Eda,  Westray,  and  Sanda. 

The  total  population  of  the  Orkneys,  in  1801,  was  24,478.  The 
number  of  the  islands  is  30,  of  which  26  are  inhabited. 

The  islands  of  Shetland  present  another  group  similar  to  those 
of  Orkney  ;  with  a  Main  Land  in  its  centre.  This  is  much  inter- 
sected by  the  sea  ;  and  is  about  60  miles  in  length,  by  12  of  me- 
dial breadth.  Inhabitant?  15,593.  They  are  hardy,  docile,  and 
ingenious ;  and  manufacture  coarse  linen  and  woollen  cloths  for 


IRELAND.  Z9-9 

their  own  use,  and  very  fine  worsted  stockings  for  exportation. 
Their  great  occupalion  is  fishing.  Yell,  or  Zell,  further  north, 
is  about  twenty  miles  long,  and  twelve  broad.  Its  coast  is  bold, 
rocky,  and  indented,  surface  level,  and  soil  tolerable.  Inhabitants 
2,965. 

Unst,  the  most  northern,  is  in  61  15  N.  It  is  twelve  miles  longj 
and  four  broad,  and  generally  level.  It  is  very  rich  in  minerals, 
and  in  cattle.  Eighty  tons  of  cured  fish  are  annually  exported. 
Inhabitants  2,259. 

These  islands  are  86  in  number,  of  which  26  are  inhabited. 
Their  whole  population  in  1801,  was  22,379. 


IRELAND. 

Situation  and  Extent.  THE  large  and  fertile  island  of  Ireland 
is  situated  to  the  west  of  Great-Britain.  It  is  about  300  miles  in 
length  and  about  160  at  tlie  greatest  breadth,  containing  27,457 
square  miles,  and  the  population  being  about  four  millions,  there 
will  be  about  146  inhabitants  to  each  square  mile. 

Historical  E/iochs.  Tiie  first  historical  epoch  of  Ireland  is  its 
original  population  by  the  Celtic  Gauls,  and  the  subsequent  colo- 
nization by  the  Belgae. 

2.  The  maritime  excursions  of  the  Scoti  against  the  Roman 
provinces  in  Britain. 

3.  The  conversion  of  Ireland  to  Christianity  in  the  fifth  centU" 
ry,  which  was  followed  by  a  singular  effect ;  for  while  the  mass 
of  the  people  retained  all  the  ferocity  of  savage  manners,  the  mon- 
asteries produced  many  men  of  such  piety  and  learning,  that  Sco- 
tia or  Ireland  became  celebrated  all  over  Christendom. 

4.  Ireland  began  to  produce  some  manufactures  about  the  four- 
teenth century. 

5.  Richard  II.  king  of  England,  attempted  in  person  the  con- 
quest of  Ireland,  but  being  imprudent  and  ill  served,  nothing  of 
moment  was  effected. 

6.  In  the  reign  of  James  I.  Ireland  became  entirely  subjugated  ^ 
and  colonies  of  English  and  Scots  were  established  in  the  north. 

7.  The  chief  mean  of  the  assimilation  of  the  countries  having 
been  completely  neglected,  namely,  the  universal  inslilution  of 
parochial  schools,  for  the  education  of  children  in  the  protestant 
religion  and  English  language,  the  Irish  continued  a  distinct  peo- 
ple ;  and,  being  instigated  by  their  fanatic  priests,  executed  their 
dreadful  massacre  of  the  English  settlers  in  1641.  This  insur- 
vection  was  not  totally  crushed  till  Cromwell  led  his  veterans  into 
Ireland. 

8.  The  appearance  of  James  II.  in  Ireland  to  reclaim  his  crown^, 
may  also  deserve  a  place. 

9.  The  amazing  progress  of  Ireland  in  manufactures  and  com  • 
merce,  within  these  twenty  years,  may  be  classed  as  the  most  i!^ 
liieuiotis  of  its  historical  fepochs. 


400 


IRELAND. 


10.  The  deplorable  events,  which  have  recently  happened  in 
Ireland,  have  led  the  way  to  its  union  with  Great-Britain,  a  meas- 
ure which  has  been  productive  of  great  reciprocal  advantages. 

Religion.  The  established  religion  of  Ireland  is  that  of  the 
clmrch  of  England  ;  but  it  is  computed  that  three  fourths  of  the 
people  are  Catholics  ;  and  of  the  remaining  fourth,  the  Presbyte- 
rians are  supposed  to  constitute  one  half- 

Government.  Ireland  being  united  to  England,  the  form  of  gov- 
ernment is  of  course  identically  the  same.  There  are  some  mi- 
nute variations  between  the  statute  and  common  laws  of  Ireland 
and  those  of  England. 

Cixijl  DiviAons.  Ireland  is  primarily  divided  into  four  provinces;* 
viz.  Ulster  to  the  North,  Connaught  to  the  West,  Lcinster  to  the 
East,  and  Munster  to  the  South.  The  subdivisions  are  counties^ 
of  which  the  foUowin?  is  a  list :  • 


("Donegal 
Londonderry 
Antrim 
Tyrone 
In  Ulster         <J  Fermanagh 
Monaghan 
Armagh 
Down 
^Caven 
fLeitrim 
I  Sligo 
In,  Connaught<(  Mayo 
J  Galway 
[^Roscommon 


In  Leinster 


fLouth 

xMeath 

Longford 

Westraeath 

Dublin 
J  King's  county 

Kildare 

Queen's  county 

Wicklow 

Carlow 

Kilkenny 

Wexford 


rClare 
j  Tippers 


ary 
)  Waterford 


In  Munster     <^Timerick 


Cork 
[_Kerry 

Pofmlation.  The  population  of  Ireland,  from  a  census  taken 
some  years  since,  amounted  to  3,427,209.  The  number  of  houses 
was  489,897. 

Army.  If  we  suppose  every  eighth  person  capable  of  arms^ 
Ireland  might  raise  a  force  of  500,000  men. 

Revenues.  The  average  amount  of  the  Irish  revenue  in  three 
years,  viz.  1796-7-8  was  £  ^860,000.  Its  amount,  in  1806,  was 
5,604,000;  and  in  1808,6,174,000. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  manners  of  the  superior  classes  of 
people  in  Ireland  now  nearly  approach  to  the  English  standard. 
The  Irish  gentry  amuse  themselves  with  hunting  and  other  robust 
exercises.  Hence  an  overflow  of  health  and  spirits  ;  and  the  ob- 
servation of  an  able  v»riter,  that  Ireland  produces  the  stoutest  men, 
and  the  fincbt  women  in  Europe.  A  funeral  among  the  lower 
classes  is  joined  by  all  the  men  and  women  of  the  vicinity,  and  is 
accompanied  with  dreadful  howls,  and  other  barbarous  cereiTionies. 
Their  diet  consists  chiefly  of  potatoes  and  buttermilk  ;  and  the  ru- 
ral cottage  is  a  wretched  hovel  of  mud.     The  favorite  liquor  is 


IRELAND.  40i 

usquebaugh,  or  the  water  of  life  ;  but  more  properly  the  watet*  of 
death,  beinp;  an  ardent  and  pernicious  distillation  from  corn. 

Literature.  The  literature  of  Ireland  has  a  venerable  claim  to 
antiquity.  The  Anglo-Saxons  derived  their  first  illumination  from 
Ireland ;  and  in  Scotland  literature  continued  to  be  the  special 
province  of  the  Irish  clergy,  till  the  thirteenth  century. 

In  no  quarter  of  the  British  dominions,  has  education  been  con- 
ducted upon  so  solid  and  rational  a  plan  as  in  Scotland ;  and  no 
where  has  it  been  so  much  neglected  as  in  Ireland. 

Ireland  possesses  only  one  universily,  that  of  Dublin.  It  con- 
sists of  a  chancellor,  vice-chancellor,  provost,  vice-provost,  twenty- 
two  fellows,  and  thirteen  professors  of  various  sciences.  The 
number  of  students  is  commonly  aliout  four  hundred,  including 
seventy  on  the  foundation.  The  building  consists  of  two  quad- 
rangles, and  contains  a  library  of  some  account,  and  a  printing- 
office. 

At  Kilkenny  there  is  an  endowed  school,  or  what  is  called  a 
college  ;  but  its  institutes  seem  little  adapted  to  the  quiet  of  an 
academical  life. 

Cities  and  Towns.  Dublin  is  the  capital  city  of  Ireland.  Its 
situation  is  delightful,  in  a  bottom,  between  ranges  of  hills  on  the 
south  and  north.  It  is  divided  by  the  river  Liffy,  and  by  some  riv" 
ulets.  The  inhabitants  in  1802,  were  167,sy9.*  This  capital  is 
justly  accounted  the  second  in  the  British  dominions. 

The  circumference  of  Dublin  is  about  9  miles.  The  harbor  is 
incommodious,  being  impeded  with  two  banks  of  sand,  called  the 
north  and  south  bulls,  which  prevent  ships  of  large  burthen  from 
passing  the  bar  ;  but  some  improvements  have  been  rtiade.  A 
mole  has  been  constructed  four  miles  in  length  ;  and  the  quays  arc 
spacious  and  beautiful.  The  are  six  bridges,  the  chief  of  which  is 
that  called  Essex. 

Dublin  has  an  ample  supply  of  native  provisions;  but  coals  are 
imported  from  Scotland  and  Cumberland. 

Cork  is  a  city  of  considerable  importance,  situated  on  the  south 
east  side  of  the  island,  and  contains  about  70,000  inhabitants.  The 
haven  ranks  among  the  most  capacious  and  safe  in  Europe  ;  and 
the  exportation,  the  largest  in  the  sister  kingdom,  consists  chiefly 
of  beef,  hides,  tallow,  and  butter.  It  is  the  grand  market  of  Irish 
provisions ;  and  it  was  computed  that  not  less  than  a  hundred 
thousand  cattle  were  here  annually  killed  and  salted,  between  the 
months  of  August  and  January.  This  city  lies  chiefly  in  a  marshy 
island,  surrounded  by  the  river  Lee  ;  but  the  marshes  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  I'iver  having  been  drained,  ample  space  has  been 
given  to  the  recent  improvements. 

Limerick  unites  the  fortunate  situation  of  being  almost  central 
to  the  south  of  Ireland,  with  an  excellent  haven,  formed  by  the 
long  estuary  of  the  river  Shannon.  The  city  is  accounted  the 
third  in  Ireland,  and  was  formerly  fortified  with  great  care.     Th^ 

51 


400  IRELANiD: 

number  of  inhabitants  50,000.     The  chief  exports  are  beef  and: 
other  pvovisions. 

Galway  is  a  town  of  considerable  note,  and  carries  on  an  exten- 
sive trade  with  the  West-Indies.  The  port  is  comn^odious  and- 
safe,  but  distant  from  the  city,  which  can  only  be  reached  by  ves- 
sels of  small  burden  :  the  number  of  inhabitants  12,000.  Greater 
trade  is  now  carried  on  in  the  bay  of  Sligo,  than  at  Galway. 

Londonderry  is  more  remarkable  for  its  ancient  and  military 
fame  than  for  its  present  commerce,  though  not  unimportant.  It 
stands  on  the  river  Foyle,  over  which  a  wooden  bridge  of  singu- 
lar construction,  one  thousand  and  sixty-eight  feet  in  length,  was 
thrown  in  1791.     Inhabitants  about  11,000. 

Belfast  on  the  north-east  is  in  the  centre  of  the  linen  manufac- 
tures, and  may  almost  be  regarded  as  a  Scottish  colony.  The  in- 
habitants are  computed  at  18,000.  The  chief  manufactures,  cot- 
ton, cambric,  sail-cloth,  linen,  with  glass,  sugar  and  earthen  v/are. 
It  maintains  considerable  intercourse  v/ith  the  commercial  city  of 
Gla',;ow ;  arid  the  grand  exports  are  to  the  West-Indies  and 
America. 

Waterford  is  a  city  of  considerable  iraportanc^,  on  the  river 
Suir.  The  inhabitants  about  30,000.  The  chief  exports  are  beef* 
pork,  &c.  and  linen. 

Kilkenny  is  a  handsome  town,  with  16,000  inhabitants. 
Manufactures  and   Commerce.     The   manufactures   and   com-^ 
merce  of  Ireland  have  experienced  an  unexampled  increase  since 
the  union  with  Great  Britain,  in  1800.     The  value   of  hard-ware 
imported  in  1799,  was  X)60,000  sterling;  and  in   1808  ,^^250,000. 
The  following  table  will  exhibit  this  increase  in  various  articles  : 

1799  rSOr  1308. 

Cotton,  lbs.                 460,000  1,223,000  1,486,000 

Carpeting,  yds.           51,000  133,000  187,000 

Sugar,  cwt.                211,000  245,000  447,000 

Drapery,  yds.          1,562,000  2,233,000  5,078,000 

Cotton  cloth,  yds.      124,000  141,000  228,000 

The  exports  of  Ireland  in  various  articles  in  these  years  wcr« 
as  follows  r 

Linen,  yds.  36,174,000 

Flax, tons  300 

Linen  yarn,  tons  830 

The  average  annual  export  In  1797-8-9  amounted  to  ^^6,' 2 1,757. 
In  1806,  ;C9,3 14,854;    1807,^10,110,385;    1808,  X:i2,577,5  17. 

The  amount  of  imports  in  1808,  was  ^8,860,325;  of  which 
j^329,8lO  were  i^-exported. 

The  amount  of  British  manufactures  purchased  by  Ireland  in 
1799,wais  £2,087,672  ;  and  in  1808.  X;4,500,000. 

A  large  portion  of  the  commerce  of  Ireland  arises  from  her 
abundant  stores  of  black  cattle,  the  moisture  of  the  climate  res- 
d^riiig  the  pasturage  remarkably  luxuriant. 


1«07 

1808. 

41^87,000 

43,904,382 

1,600 

2,440 

412 

1,^90 

.      IRELAND.  40S 

The  average  annual  exports  of  Ireland  for  the  seven  years 
previous  to  1791,  amouinetl,  according  to  Dr.  Beaufort,  to 
4,357,000/. 

Climate.  Ireland  lying  nearly  in  tlie  same  parallel  with  Eng- 
land, the  difference  of  climate  cannot  be  supposed  to  be  very  im- 
portant. The  mean  temperature  of  the  north  is  about  48  j  of  the 
middle  50  ;  of  the  south  32  of  Fahrenheit. 

Face  of  the  Country.  Ireland  forms  a  striking  contrast  to  Scot- 
land, being  mostly  level,  fcriilc,  and  abimdant  in  pasturage.  The 
chains  of  !  ills,  for  they  can  haidly  aspire  to  the  name  of  mountains, 
arc  few,  and  unimportant. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  quantity  of  cultivated  land,  accord- 
ing to  Young,  exceeds,  in  proportion,  that  of  England.  The  most 
striking  feature  is  the  rocky  nature  of  ihc  soil,  stones  generally 
appearing  on  the  surface,  yet  \viihout  injury  to  the  iertility.  The 
■climate  being  more  moist  than  that  of  England  ;  the  verdure  nev- 
er appears  parched  with  heat.  Tillage  is  little  understood,  even 
in  the  best  corn  counties ;  turnips  and  clover  being  almost  un- 
known :  the  v.iicat  sown  upon  fallow,  and  followed  by  several  crops 
of  spring  corn.  The  farmers  are  oppressed  by  th.e  shocking  sys- 
tem oi  middle  men^  who  rent  farms  from  the  landlords,  and  let  them 
to  the  real  occupiers  ;  who,  as  well  as  the  proprietors,  suffer  great- 
ly by  this  strange  practice.  Lime-stone  gravel  is  a  mai'iure  pecu- 
liar to  Ireland  ;  having,  on  uncultivated  land,  the  same  wonderful 
effects  as  lime,  and  on  all  soils  it  is  ben.eficial. 

Rivers.  Among  the  chief  rivers  of  Ireland  must  first  be  men- 
tioned the  Shannon,  which  rises  from  the  Lake  of  Allen,  and  pass- 
ing through  two  other  large  lakes,  afterwards  extends  below  Lim- 
erick, into  a  vast  estuary  or  firth,  about  sixty  miles  in  length,  and 
from  three  to  ten  in  breadth.  This  noble  river  is,  almost  throup-h 
its  whole  course,  so  wide  and  deep,  as  to  afford  easy  navigation. 
The  whole  courhe  of  the  Shannon  may  be  computed  at  170  miles. 
The  river  Barrow  rises  about  forty  miles  to  the  west  of  Dublin, 
-and  after  a  course  of  about  100  miles,  enters  the  sea  on  the  south- 
east, having  received  the  rivers  Nour  and  Suir,  and  formed  the  har- 
bor of  Waterford. 

Lakes.  The  chief  lake  of  fresh  water  is  that  of  Ern,  which  ex- 
ceeds 30  miles  in  length,  and  12  in  breadth. 

Next  in  magnitude  is  Neagh,  about  22  miles  in  length,  and  12 
-in  breadth.  Both  these  lakes  are  studded  with  small  islands  ;  and 
the  latter  is  said  to  possess  a  petrifying  quality. 

The  Lake  of  Coirib,  in  the  county  of  Gaiway,  is  about  20  miles 
in  length,  and  from  2  to  5  wide. 

MountaiJis.  The  mountainous  chains  in  Ireland  are  neither 
numerous  nor  impoi  tant. 

Bogs.  The  place  of  the  forests  is  unhappily  usurped  by  the 
moors  or  bogs,  which  form  a  rernaikable  feature  of  the  countrv. 
Boate  divides  them  into  four  descriptions  :  1.  The  grassy,  in  which 
the  water  being  concealed  by  herbage,  they  become  exiren)ely 
perilous  to  travellers:  some  of  these  are  dry  in  the  summer. 
2.  The  pools  of  water  and  mire.     2.  What  he  terms  hassocky 


404  IRELAND, 

bogs,  or  shallow  lakes  studded  with  tufts  or  nvshes,  "which  are. 
chiefly  found  in  the  province  of  Lf^insSev,  especially  in  King's  and 
Queen's  counties.  4.  The  peat  rnooi  s.  One  of  the  greatest  im- 
provements of  modern  agriculture  is  tl^at  of  reclaiming  peat  moors, 
by  means  of  calcareous  manure. 

Mineralogij.  Considerable  masses  of  native  gold,  have  been 
lately  discovered  in  the  county  of  Wicklow,  south  of  Dublin. 

Boate  mentions  a  naine  of  silver,  intermingled  with  lead,  which 
■^pas  wrought  in  the  county  of  Antrim,  and  yielded  a  pound  of  pure 
silver  from  thirty  pounds  of  lead.  Another,  less  productive,  was 
found  near  the  harbor  of  Sligo,  m  Connaught ;  and  a  third  in  the 
county  of  Tipperary,  twelve  miles  from  Limerick. 

Copper  has  been  recently  found  in  the  county  of  Wicklow,  and 
at  Muccross,  in  Kerry. 

One  of  the  chief  mineral  productions  of  Ireland  is  iron. 
Beds  of  coal   are   found  in  various  parts  of  Ireland.     Those  of 
Kilkenny,  at  Castlecomer  are  deservedly  celebrated  among  miner- 
alogists, as  the  purest  which  have  yet  been  traced  in  any  quarter 
of  the  globe. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  marbles  of  Ireland  is  found  near  Kil- 
kenny, and  others  have  been  discovei-ed  in  various  parts  of  the 
island.     Slate,  of  various  kinds,  is  also  abundant. 

Natural  Curiosities.     The    Giant's   Causeway  is  the   most  re= 
j-narkable  of  the  curiosities  of  Ireland.     The  first  account  is  that 
given  by  Sir  R.  Buckley,  in  a  letter  to  Doctor  Lister,  1693.     This 
surprising  collection  of  basaltic  pillars  is  about  eight  miles  N.  E. 
from  Coleraine.     The  adjacent  coast  is  verdant,  but  precipitous  ; 
and  from  it  the  Causeway  projects  into  the  sea,  to  an  unknown  ex- 
tent.    The  part  explored  is  about  600  feet  in  length  ;  the  breadth 
from  210  to  120  ;  the  height  from  16  to  36  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  strand.     It  consists  of  many  thousand  pillars,  mostly  in  a  verti- 
cal position  ;    some  of  them  high,  others  broken,  and,  for  a  consid- 
erable space,  of  an  equal  height,  so  as  to  form  a  pavement.     They 
are   closely  compacted   together ;  though   the   form  be   various, 
trigonal,  tetragonal,   pentagonal,  hexagonal,  and  heptagonal ;  the 
most  numerous  are  the  pentagonal.     The  pillars  are  rarely  com- 
posed of  one  entire  piece,  but  mostly  consist  of  short  or  long  joints, 
tither  plane  or  alternately  concave  and  convex.     The  pillars  are 
from  15  to  24  inches,  or  more  in  diameter.     Towards  the  N.  E.  is 
•what  is  called  the  organ,  in  the  side  of  a  hill,  consisting  of  fifty  pil- 
lars ;  that  in  the  middle  is  40  feet  high,  the  others  gradually  di- 
minishing.    Similar  pillars  are  also  found  a  mile  and  a  half  inlantl, 
four  miles  to  the  west  of  the  Giant's  Causeway,  and  at  the  capes  of 
Bengorc  and  Fairhead. 

The  basalt  of  the  Giant's  Causeway  is  of  a  very  compact  tex- 
ture, and  the  angles  of  the  pillars  have  preserved  their  sharpness, 
though  exposed  to  the  sea  for  perhaps  two  or  three  thousand 
years.* 

*  Kirwan  Min.  i.  2f?5. 


LAPLAND 


LAPLAND. 

Extent.  LAPLAND  reaches  from  lat.  63  N.  lo  the  Noiiij 
Cape  ;  and  from  the  Atlantic  on  the  W.  to  West  Bothnia,  in  tliH 
south,  and  farther  north  to  the  White  Sea,  on  the  E. 

Divisions.  Part  of  Lapland  is  in  Norway,  part  in  Sivcden,  uud 
part  in  Russia.  To  Norway  beloni^  the  northwestern  and  nori!,- 
orn  ;  to  Sv/eden  the  southern  ;  to  Russia  the  eastern. 

Religion.  It  is  but  little  more  than  a  century  since  tlic  Lap- 
landers were  converted  from  Faganisin.  Tlity  are  still  very  fend 
of  many  of  their  old  superstitions. 

Government.  The  Danish  and  Russian  Laplanders  arc  stiil 
rude  in  their  mode  of  life,  and  hardly  know  what  is  meant  by 
government.  Those  of  Sweden  have  been  reduced  to  more  sub- 
ordination. 

Population.  This  country  will  always  be  thi.ily  inhabited.  lis 
present  population  is  thought  not  to  exceed  60,000.  Russian  Lap- 
Land  contains  about  1200  or  1300  families.  The  Laplanders  arc 
generally  about  four  feet  high,  with  short  black  hair,  narrow  dark 
eyes,  large  heads,  high  cheek  bones,  wide  mouth,  thick  lips,  and  a 
swarthy  complexion.  They  call  thcinsehcs  iSr2;,?f  j-  their  speech, 
Same  gicl,  and  their  coimtry  Saine-Edna. 

Manners  and  Customs.  Towards  the  shore  they  buiid  huts  • 
and  on  the  mountains  are  tents  of  a  conical  shape,  divided  into 
apartments  forlhemselvcs  and  their  cattle  Their  dress  consists 
of  a  red  kersey  cap,  with  yellow  stripes  ;  a  tunic  of  sheep-skin; 
a  cloak  ^nd  leggins,  (a  sort  of  pantaloons  reaching  from  the  ai,- 
cle  to  the  hip,)  made  sometimes  of  cloth,  anc!  s')n  etimcs  of  t!ic 
skin  of  the  rein-deer  ;  and  shoes  of  the  undressed  liidc  of  ilio 
cow.  The  maritime  Laplanders  subsist  on  fish,  and  or.  thci'-  cat- 
tle and  sheep  ;  the  mountaineers,  chiefly,  on  tiicir  reln-dccr  and 
by  hunting. 

Towns.  Kola  is  the  chief  town  of  Russi;?:!  Lapland.  It  is  near 
the  Frozen  Ocean,  on  the  river  Kola,  in  lat.  68  60  N.  It  is  a  con- 
siderable fishery  for  whales  and  sea-dogs. 

7ornea,  the  capital  of  Swedish  Lapland,  sfiiids  on  an  island 
formed  by  the  river  Tornca,  a  sliort  distance  li  om  its  entrance  into 
the  Gulf  of  Bothnia.  Its  harbor,  formerly  excellent,  has  been 
greatly  injured  by  the  accumulation  of  sand,  and  the  gradual  de- 
pression of  the  Baltic.  It  contains  about  600  souls  :  the  houses 
arc  all  of  one  story.  The  sun  on  the  longest  day  is  visible  at  mid- 
night. 

Enontckis  is  an  extensive  parish  in  Norwegian  Lapland,  contain- 
ing 9o0  inhabitants,  principally  nomudcs.,  or  wanderin.g  families. 

Mamifncturi's.  The  men  make  cups  and  casks  of  beech.-wood, 
and  spoons  of  the  horns  of  the  rein-deer.  Steel  they  work  into 
knives.  Their  sledges  are  made  in  the  sliape  of  boats,  liaving  a 
flat  stern.  They  have  a  keel  and  thwarts,  with  side  planks  fast- 
ened with  wooden  pegs.     The  sledge  is  caulked,  and  Las  the 


406  LAPLAND. 

drawirii^  rope  fastened  to  the  head-post.  Sa  wing-mi  lis  have  been 
lately  iniroduced.  The  women  prepare  the  furs  of  animals  taken 
in  hunting  ;  and  manufacture  thread  out  of  their  sinews.  They 
nianufacune  also  tinsel-wire,  and  die  cloth  of  a  yellow  color. 
They  weave  blankets  for  their  beds,  and  for  their  tents. 

Climate.  The  great  body  of  Lapland  is  situated  in  the  north- 
ern frigid  zone.  It  is  also  very  mountainous.  These  circum- 
stances expose  it  to  a  cold  -too  intense  to  be  borne  by  the  natives 
of  more  temperate  regions.  In  the  summer,  however,  the  heat  is, 
for  a  short  time,  often  excessive.  The  whole  process  of  vegeta- 
tion is  completed  in  two  months.  At  Utsjocki,  upon  the  Tana,  in 
lat.  69  53  N.  the  sun  is  hid  from  Jan.  21  to  Nov.  20.  The  ice 
disappears  from  the  lakes  about  June  20th.  The  night  frosts  be- 
gin in  July  ;  and  the  rivers  freeze  early  in  October. 

Face  of  (he  Counirij.  Norwegian  and  Swedish  Lapland  are  al- 
most entirely  mountainous.  There  are  great  numbers  of  rivers 
and  fresh  water  lakes  generally  incapable  of  navigation,  and  the 
country  at  large  has  the  appearance  of  a  wilderness. 

Between  Allen,  on  the  western  coast,  and  the  North  Cape,  the 
peninsula  is  a  continuation  of  mountains,  intersected  by  lakes, 
rivers  and  morasses. 

Rivers.  The  Tornea  rises  in  the  mountains  of  Kola.  It  re* 
ceivcs  the  Muonis  a  mile  below  Kengis.  Near  its  mouth  it  is  gen- 
erally 900  yards  wide,  and  in  some  places  10  yards  deep. 

The  Alten  vises  among  the  same  mountains,  and  after  a  course 
of  more  than  150  miles  in  a  N.  W.  direction,  falls  into  the  ocean 
at  Alten. 

I'he  Tana,  a  larger  stream,  pursues  a  N.  E.  direction,  and 
empties  into  the  Tanafiard  east  of  the  North  Cape.  It  is  extreme- 
ly rapid,  and  distinguished  for  the  excellence  of  its  salmon. 

I^akcs.  The  number  of  lakes  and  ponds  in  Lapland  is  very 
great.  The  Enara,  between  Swedish  and  Russian  Lapland,  is  70 
miles  long  and  30  broad. 

Mouniaivfi.  A  chain  of  mountains  described  by  Tooke,  called, 
on  the  maps,  the  Mountains  of  Kemi,  reaches  more  than  15  de- 
grees of  Innc^iiude,  and  divides  the  rivers  of  the  Baltic  from  those 
of  the  Arctic  Ocean  The  only  summit  of  this  chain,  whose  name 
we  know,  is  Mount  Pallas.  Its  height  is  very  great,  but  has  not 
been  measured. 

The  ranee  of  Kolen  separates  Norwegian  Lapland  from  Swed- 
ish, and  continues  as  far  as  the  North  Cape.  A  branch  of  it  is 
said  to  run  ca':t'.vard,  as  far  as  the  White  Sea. 


NORWAY.  4ar 


DANISH  EMPIRE. 

1.    IN  EUROPE. 

1.  Kingdom  of  Norway.  2.  Kingdom  of  Denmark.  3.  Fcit© 
Islands. 

2.    IN  AMERICA. 

1.  Iceland.     2.  Greenland. 

3.    IN  ASIA. 

Three  of  the  Nicobar  Islands  are  said  to  belong  to  Denmark. 

4.    IN  AFRICA. 

Christiansburg  and  Freidensburg,  two  settlements  and  fortresses 
on  the  coast  of  Guinea. 

Denmark  till  lately  possessed  St.  Croix,  St.  Thomas,  and  St. 
John's,  in  the  West  Indies  ;  Serampore  in  Bengal  ;  and  Tran- 
quebar  in  Coromandel.     These  have  been  taken  by  the  British. 


NORWxW. 

Extent.  ITS  length  from  the  JVaze,  in  58  N.  to  North  Cape, 
in  71  10,  is  1000  miles.  lis  width,  in  lat.  59,  is  210  miles  ;  in  lat. 
61  20,  about  235  ;  and  north  of  lat.  63,  it  is  rarely  more  than  80. 
On  the  north  of  Sweden  it  extends  considerably  east  of  the  North 
Cape  until  it  meets  Russian  Lapland.  It  contains,  according  to 
Hasse],  152,680  square  miles. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  the  Frozen  Ocean  ;  E.  by  Rus- 
sian Lapland,  and  Sweden,  from  which  the  northern  half  of  the 
country  is  separated  by  a  lofty  chain  of  mountains  ;  S.  by  the  Scag- 
gerac  ;  and  W.  by  the  Atlantic. 

Divisions.  Norway  is  naturally  divided  into  two  parts,  North- 
ern and  Southern. 

Northern  Norway  is  a  long  narrow  slip  of  land,  reaching  from 
the  North  Cape  to  the  narrow  Swedish  province  of  Herndahl. 
which,  between  lat.  65  and  66,  separates  it  from  Norway  proper. 
It  is  divided  into  Nordland,  Fmmark,  and  Lapmark,  all  under  the 
government  of  Drontheim. 

Southern  Norway,  which  is  the  great  body  of  the  country, 
reaches  northward  to  about  lat.  65  N. 

Norway  is  politically  divided  into  four  governments. 

1.  Drontheim  in  the  N.  92,406  square  miles  and  1 1  counties.* 

2.  Berghen  in  the  W.  16,000  square  miles,  and  5  counties. 

3.  Aggerhuus,  in  the  E.  and  S.  29,808  square  miles,  and  14- 
counties. 

4.  Christiansand;  in  the  S.  W.  14,466  square  miles,  and  5? 
counties. 

*  Kassel. 


4.08  DANISH  EMPIRE. 

Hifiiorkal  Efiochs.  1.  The  original  population  by  the  Fins  ant- 
Laplanders. 

2.  Tiic  conquest  by  the  Goths. 

3.  The  consolidation  of  all  the  petty  monarchies  into  one,  by 
riarald  Harfa^^rc,  about  A.  D.  910.  Many  of  the  petty  princes 
lefc  the  kingdom.  Gan^a  Hrolf,  or  RoUo  the  Walker,  went  to 
Fiance;  and,  in  912,  subju  seated  the  province,  which,  from  him, 
and  liis  followers,  the  jYormen  was  called  Normandy. 

4.  The  conversion  of  the  country  to  Christianity,  in  the  reign 
of  Oiaf  I.  A.  U.  994. 

5.  The  invasion  of  England  by  Harald  III.  who  was  slain  in  a 
baiile  with  Harold,  King  of  England,  Sept.  25th,  1066. 

6.  Its  union  with  Sweden,  under  a  common  sovereign,  at  the 
death  of  Hagen  V.  A.  D.  1319. 

7.  Its  union  with  Denmark  and  Sweden  under  Olaf  V.  the  hus- 
band of  Margaret,  A.  D.  1380. 

Religion.  The  Lutheran  is  the  established  religion,  and  the 
great  body  of  the  hihabitants  profess  it.  Norway  is  divided  into 
4  Bishoprics  ;  1,  Christiana,  2,  Christiansand,  3,  Berghen,  4, 
Dronlheim.  Each  diocese  is  divided  into  districts,  under  the  care 
tif  provosts  ;  each  district  into  parishes.  A  large  parish,  beside 
the  principal  church,  has  one  or  more  chapels  of  ease,  under  the 
eare  of  chaplains.  The  livings  vary  from  £200  sterling  to  £60. 
A  clergyman's  widow  is  entitled  to  his  salary  for  the  year  follow-" 
ing  his  decease,  and  to  a  pension  from  his  successor  of  one  eighth 
of  the  annual  income. 

Governmeni.  Norway  is  a  province  of  Denmark.  The  vice- 
roy who  is  also  the  governor  of  Aggerhuus,  resides  at  Christia- 
nia.  He  presides  in  the  high  court  of  justice,  which  is  held  at 
that  place.  Inferior  governors  are  appointed  in  the  other  three 
governments. 

Pofiulation.  The  population  of  Norway  by  a  census  taken  in 
1802  amounted  to  910,074  ;  and  Hassel,  in  1809,  estimated  it  at 
9 12,000,  which  is  probably  less  than  the  truth,  for  the  births  are  to 
ihe  deaths  as  23|  to  17|.* 

Jriny.  Norway  maintains  its  own  army,  which  consists  of 
32,053  infantry,  and  10,478  cavalry.  Every  peasant  not  born  in  a 
town  or  on  some  noble  estate,  is  by  birth,  a  soldier,  and  enrolled 
at  the  age  of  16.  Till  26  he  is  classed  in  the  young  militia  ;  then 
he  enters  into  the  old  militia,  and  is  discharged  at  36.  The  troops 
are  esteemed  for  their  bravery  and  much  attached  to  their  coun- 
try. The  horses  of  the  cavalry  are  small,  but  strong,  active,  and 
hardy.  These  troops  take  the  field  every  year  in  June,  and  re- 
main encamped  about  a  month. 

Besides  these,  a  regular  militia  has  been  enrolled  since  1801, 
Avho  are  to  fly  to  arms  at  a  moment's  warning.  Their  number  is 
4,0,000. 

Revenue.  The  revenue  annually  raised  by  Denmark  frou; 
Norway  was,  in  1809,  1,725,000  guilders,!  which  at  40  cts.  th-i 

*  CoTc.  f  HasseL 


NORWAY.  iO'9 

guilder*  is  SG90,O90.     This  is  raised  from  the  land-tax,  customs, 
excise,  and  licenses  granted  by  government. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  common  food  of  the  peasants  is 
milk  ;  cheese  ;  dried  or  salted  fish  ;  oatbread,  vvhich  they  bake 
but  twice  a  year  ;  and,  very  rarely,  a  little  flesh  or  dried  meat. 
In  times  of  scarcity  they  eat  the  bark  of  the  fir,  ground  to  a  pow- 
der and  mixed  with  oat  meal.  The  polatoe  has  been  lately  intro- 
duced ;  but  it  grows  only  to  a  moderate  size. 

The  Norwegians  are  tall,  well  formed,  robust,  brave,  honest, 
hospitable  and  ingenious ;  yet  rude,  rash,  and  litigious.  They 
make  excellent  soldiers  and  sailors. 

Language.  The  original  language  of  Morway  was  the  same 
with  t!iat  which  is  called  the  Icelandic,  the  purest  dialect  of  the 
of  the  Teutonic  or  Gothic.  Tae  inhabitants  now  generally  speak, 
an  intermediate  dialect  of  the  Teutonic,  between  the  Danish  and 
Swedish.  The  gentry  and  iiihabilants  of  the  principal  towns,  how° 
ever,  speak  a  purer  Danish,  than  is  usual  even  in  Denmark. 

Education.  Each  parish  is  provided  with  two  or  three  schools, 
where  children  are  taught  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic.  The 
masters  have  ;C  12  sterling  /zer  an;z.  a  house,  and  some  other  ad- 
vantages. Four  Latin  schools  are  maintained  at  the  expense  of 
the  crown.  In  these  are  taught  the  Latin,  Greek,  and  Hebrew^ 
There  is  also  a  seminary  for  the  Laplanders  at  Berghen.  Nor- 
way has  always  been  behind  the  other  countries  of  Europe  in  lit- 
erature.     Till  lately  she  could  not  boast  a  single  native  writer. 

Cities  and  Towns.  Berghen,  the  capital,  in  lat.  60  23  N.  long, 
5  33,  E.  is  a  sea-port,  seated  in  the  centre  of  a  valley,  and  forming 
a  semicircle  round  the  small  gulf  of  the  sea,  called,  by  the  inhabit- 
ants, Waag.  The  public  buihUngs  and  many  of  th:3  houses  are  of 
stone.  Its  trade  is  in  fish,  fish-od,  tallow,  tar,  hides  ;ind  timber. 
The  returns  are  corn  and  foreign  merchandise.  It  was  formerly- 
connected  with  the  Hansetov/ns,  and  to  them  it  owes  the  rise  of  its 
commerce.  It  has  been  exposed  to  frequent  conflagrations.  The 
population  is  estimated  at  19,000.  The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best 
in  Europe. 

Christiania,  in  lat.  59  6  37,  stands  in  a  semicircular  form  on 
the  northern  extremity  of  the  gulf  of  Christiania,  30  miles  from 
the  open  sea.  Population  10,000.  The  fortress  is  small  but  strongs 
The  harbor  is  excellent,  and  the  trade  considerable. 

Drontheim  stands  on  the  estuary  of  the  Nid,  in  63  26  2  N". 
Except  Tornea,  it  is  the  most  northern  city  in  Europe.  It  was  the 
residence  of  the  ancient  kings  of  Norway,  and  afterwards  an  arch- 
bishopric, suppressed  at  the  reformation.  There  are  two  church- 
es, a  public  sciiooi,  a  seminary  for  missionaries,  an  orphan  house, 
a  poor-house,  an  infirmary,  and  a  house  of  correction.  Its  inhabit-* 
ants  are  9000  in  number.  From  400  to  500  ships  are  employed  in 
its  trade  annually  ;  and  the  principal  exports  are  salt-fish,  herrings, 

"*  The  guilder  of  Saxony  is  51  cents  5  mills.   If  Haseel  s  was  the  .Saxon  Giiildefj 
the  revenue  will  have  been  more,  of  course. 
52 


410  DANISH  EMPIRE. 

limber,  tallow,  and  copper,  from  the  celebrated  mines  of  Horactti^ 
It  is  285  niiles  N.  N.  E.  of  Berghen. 

Christlansand,  in  lat.  58    12   N.  on  the  Tor isda!,  contains  about 
4000  iniiabitants.     Christiansund,  in  63  10,  is  about  equally  popu- 
lous.    Kongsberg;,  on  the  Louven,  40  miles  S.  W.  of  Christiania,  . 
contains    1000  houses  and  6000  inhabitants.     Two  miles  from  it 
are  the  celebrated  silver  mines. 

The  population  of  Frederickshall,  in  lat.   59  4    N.  is  about  5000,- 
On  a  rock,  which  overhangs  the  town,  is  the  hitUerto  impregnable 
fortress  of  Fredevickstein,  rendered   memorable   by  the  death  ot 
Charles  XII.   of  Sweden.     The   houses   are   of  wood,   generally 
painted  red  ;  and  the  harbor  is  safe  and  commodious. 

Roads.  The  roads  of  Norway  are  exti'emely  rugged  and  al-> 
most  impassable  with  carriages. 

Commerce.  The  trade  is  principally  passive,  and  is  carried  on 
In  Danish  ships.  Tiie  exports  are  fish,  tmiber,  lumber,  furs, 
horses,  horned  cattle,  fish-oii,  tallow,  buUer,  copper,  hides,  mar- 
ble, millstones,  iron,  silver,  lar,  aiur.i,  salt,  pot-ash,  and  Prussian- 
blue.  Corn  and  all  kinds  of  manufactures  are  imported.  The^ 
Norwegians  are  the  best  seanien  in  the  Danish  fleet. 

Climate  mid  Sta/ion.t.  Tlie  greatest  quantity  of  snow  falls  be- 
fore the  middle  of  January  ;  and  of  rain,  in  April,  August,  and 
October.  March,  JuiiC,  and  July,  are  usually  clear.  The  most 
violent  winds  occur  in  April,  May,  and  October.  The  sea  is  al- 
ways open  at  Borghen.  The  south  winds  prevail  on  the  westeriv 
coast.  In  1719,  7500  Sweden  v/ere  frozen  to  death  in  theirmarcli 
over  the  mountaijis  to  the  attack  of  Drontheim. 

jFace  of  the  Country.  This  is  probably  the  most  mountainous' 
country  in  Europe.  In  the  north,  all  is  mountains  ;  but,  in  the 
south,  there  are  tracts  of  great  fertility,  and,  though  often  rocky, 
the  soil  is  rich. 

Soil  and  j1[^Ticulture.  There  is  little  arable  land,  and  most  of 
the  corn  is  imported  from  Denmark.  The  pasture  is  excellent 
and  sbundant  ;  and  great  numbers  of  cattle  and  horses  are  annual- 
ly raised.     The  agriculture  is  improving. 

Ri-vers.  The  Glomme,  the  largest  river  of  Norway,  runs  near- 
ly south,  abfiut  300  miles,  to  Sarp,  near  Frederickstadt.  About 
80  miles  from  the  sea  it  receives  the  Worm,  which  runs  througlr 
Lake  Mioss,  and  is  almost  as  long  as  the  Glomme.  It  is  wholly 
unnavigable,  and  full  of  shoals  and  cataracts  ;  yet  about  50,000 
trees  arc  annually  floated  upon  it  to  Frederickstadt.  The  Drammc 
flows  into  the  west  side  of  Christiania  bay  after  its  confluence, 
•with  the  Beina.  The  Louven  and  the  Torrisdal  in  the  S.-  arc 
smaller.  The  western  rivers  are  all  short  and  rapid.  The  Tana 
and  the  Alten  ai'e  the  largest  streams  in  Northern  Norway. 

Lakes.  These  are  numerous.  Lake  AIloss  is  60  miles  long, 
and  near  the  middle  from  12  to  18  miles  wide,  but  generally  nar- 
row. It  contains  an  island  10  miles  in  circumference  ;  fertile  in 
corn,  pasture,  and  wood.  Lake  Rands  is  50  miles  long  and  2.. 
broad.  Lake  Fobmmd  is  35  miles  long  and  8  broad,  and  surround-* 
ed  by  mountains  of  great  height.     Lake  Tyri  is  a  beautiful  piec^. 


MORWAY.  411 

"of  water,  about  15   miles  in   length  and  breadth,  diversified  with 
aiany  bayb  and  crocks. 

MtjU)iiai?is.  The  mountains  of  Norway,  though  constituting-  a 
united  chain,  under  the  name  of  the  jVorivegiun  range^  receive  dif- 
ferent names  in  the  dift'crcnt  provinces.  Its  length  is  not  less  than 
IIGO  Uiiks.  The  iwo  highest  summits  in  Norway  are  said  to  be 
Doffrthali,  <n  Dronthtim,  and  Tille  in  Berghen.  SwucA-usioci, 
one  of  the  summiis  in  the  Swedish  branch,  yetwithin  the  borders 
of  Norway,  is  said  to  be  465S  feet  above  the  waters  of  Lake  Fol- 
mund,  widen  arc  thouglit  to  be  2000  or  3000  above  the  sea. 

MineraLogy.  At  Kongsberg  are  tlie  richest  silver  mines  in  Eu- 
rope. One  mass  of  native  siiver  in  the  royal  cabinet  at  Copenha- 
gen, taken  from  ihese  mines,  weighs  409  marks;  and  is  worth  £600 
sterling.  The  annual  produce  is  £54,000  sterling,  and  the  nuiiiber 
of  mines  2500.  The  expenses  of  the  establishment  often  equal  the 
income.  The  principal- advantage  derived  from  them  is  to  supply 
-the  treasury  v/ith  spt  cie. 

The  copper  mines  of  Roraas,  about  68  miles  S.  E.  of  Drontheim, 
are  very  productive,  and  a  source  oi  considerable  revenue.  The 
annual  produce  is  about  1 100  ship-pounds  of  pure  copper.  The 
founderies  belonging  to  it  consume  yearly  1 40u  lasts  ot  coal,  and 
500  fathoms  of  wood. 

At  Skaterud  on  the  Dramme,  25  miles  N.  of  Kongsberg,  is  a 
valuable  mine  of  cobalt,  on  the  top  of  a  mountain,  discovered 
about  the  year  1780.  The  number  of  miners  is  360,  and  the  pro- 
duce 3000  weight  of  cobalt,  yielding  a  net  profit  to  the  crown  of 
si  1 6,000  sterling. 

But  the  iron  mines  of  Norway  are  the  most  profitable.  The 
richest  are  those  of  Skeen,  about  30  miles  b,  of  Kongsberg  ;  and 
those  of  Arendal,  about  36  S.  W.  of  Skeen.  Many  hundred  thou- 
sand quintals  are  annually  exported,  chiefly  in  bars  ;  part  of  it 
also  in  stoves,  pots,  kettles  and  cannon.  The  national  profit  aris- 
ing from  this  metal  is  thought  to  be  £60,000  sterling  fier  ann. 

Lead  and  sulphur  are  found  near  Kongsberg.  Alum  is  found 
abundantly  between  the  blaie-fldkes,  near  Christiania.  Royal 
salt-works  are  established  on  the  peninsula  of  Value,  6  miles  from 
Tonsberg. 

Norway  contains  inexhaustible  quarries  of  excellent  marble, 
likewise  alabaster,  chalk-stone,  cement  stone,  sandstone,  millstone, 
bakingstone,  slate,  talc,  magnets,  asbestos,  quartz,  crystals,  ame- 
thysts, and  agates  in  great  abundance  ;  together  with  curious  gar- 
nets, especially  the  green,  which  are  little -icnov/n  in  other  regions. 

J\,''atural  Curiosities.  The  Moskoestrovi,  OY  Mulstromy  is  a  re- 
markable whirlpool  oil'  the  coast  of  Nordland,  near  the  little  isl- 
and of  Moskoe,  one  of  the  Lofibden  islands.  It  is  occasioned  by 
the  very  rapid  ebb  and  flood  of  the  sea  between  Moskoe  and  Lof- 
foden.  About  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  at  high  and  low  water,  it  is 
quiet.  But  when  the  tide  is  rising  or  falling,  the  sea  boils  with 
■  immense  a  imitation  ;  its  roar  is  heard  to  the  distance  of  many 
leagues  ;  and  the  force  and  extent  of  the  vortex  is  so  great  that 
hips  3  miles  off  are  sometimes  forced  towards  the  centre  and 


413 


DANISH  EMPIRE. 


finally  dashed  in  pieces  against  the  botlom.  Whales  arc  fre^ 
quently  absorbed  by  it  in  spite  of  their  endeavors  lo  escape. 
Large  trees  arc  often  sucked  down?  and  rise  again  all  shattered 
into  splintery. 


DENMARK. 


JSxtent,  Boutidaries,  and  Divisions.  AS  the  large  islands  Zeal- 
anti  and  Funen  make  an  integral  part  of  the  kingdom,  we  shall 
incorporate  our  account  of  them  with  the  ge'ography  of  Denmark^ 
The  kingdom  is  composed  ot  the  following  territories. 

Square  miles, 
f  I.  Aalborg,  -         -  2668 

I  2.  Aarhuus,      -  -  254:7 

3.  Riperhuus,         -         -  3325 

4.  Wiborg,        -     -  -  721 

5.  Schleswick,       -         -  3330 
Holstcin,      -     ~         -            3156 


In  the  peninsula  J 
of  Jutland. 


Islands. 


7.  Zealand, 

8.  Funen. 


15948 

2884 
1938 


20,770 

The  peninsula  reaches  from  Altona,  on  the  Elbe,  in  lat.  53  35 
N.  to  the  Skaw,  in  lat.  57  45,  290  miles.  Its  breadth  varies  from 
35  to  105  miles  ;  and  its  extreme  meridians  are  7  55,  and  11  3. 
The  estuary  of  the  Elbe  lies  on  the  S,  W.  ;  the  dutchy  of  Saxe 
Lauenburg  in  Germany  on  the  S.  E. ;  the  Baltic  on  the  E.  and  N. ; 
and  the  German  ocean  on  the  W. 

The  island  of  Zealand  is  80  miles  long,  from  N.  to  S. ;  and  from 
40  to  60  broad.  It  is  indented  with  bays  and  harbois,  so  that  its 
circumference  is  about  700  miles.*  The  Sound,  in  the  narrowest 
place  3  miles  wide,  separates  it  from  Sv;«den  ;  and  the  Great  Belt 
on  the  \V.  divides  it  from  the  island  of  Funen,  the  nearest  pohit 
of  which  is  18  miles  distant  from  Zealand. 

Funen  is  separated  by  the  Litlie  Belt  from  the  peninsula.  The 
distance  from  Assens  to  Arroesound,  is  9  miles  ;  but  between 
Middk'farth  and  Snoghoy  it  is  not  quite  2.  Funen  is  50  mile& 
long,  and  30  broad  ;  and   340  miles  in  circurnfcr»;nce.t 

Jhlvtorical  Epochs.  1,  The  most  ancient  population  of  the  con- 
tinental part  of  Denmark  by  the  Cimbri. 

2.  'i'he  conquest  by  the  Goths. 

3.  The  iabulous  and  traditional  history  of  Denmark,  which  ex- 
tends from  about  the  year  of  Christ  500,  to  tbc  reign  of  Heriold. 

4.  The  conquest  of  Denmark  by  Olaf  II.  king  of  Sweden,  abou^ 
the  year  900. 

*  Coxe.  +  Co2te, 


DENMARK.  413 

5.  The  more  certain  history  commences  with  Gurm  or  Gormo, 
A.  D.  920. 

6.  The  reign  of  Canute  the  Great,  kinc^  of  Denmark,  England, 
and  iNorwa)-.  The  conversion  of  Denmark  to  Christianity  had 
con)nnerc<jcl  in  the  beginning  of  the  nintli  century  ;  but  Chris- 
tiaiiiiy  was  far  from  being  universal  ihtic  till  the  reign  of  Caiiute 
the  Or-  '-..when  it  was  followed  by  its  invariable  ccnsequences,  the 
ci;  .s.ition  oi  piracy  and  rujyiu'.-,  and  the  diffusion  of  industry  and 
civiijzation. 

7     The  reign  of  Waldemar,  surnamed  the  Gr<  r,t,  A.  D.  1 137. 

8.  The  marriage  of  Hakon  VI.  king  of  Norway,  with  Marga- 
ret, daughter  of  \Valderaar  HI.  king  of  Denmark,  A.  D.  1363,  pro- 
duced the  memoiable  union  of  the  three  crowns  of  ihe  noitli. 

9.  The  accession  of  the  house  of  Oldenburgh,  in  the  person  of 
Chribtiern  LAD.  1448. 

10.  The  tyrannical  and  unhappy  reign  of  Cluistiern  II,  when 
Sweden  was  emancipated  by  the  efforts  of  Gustaf  Wase. 

li.  The  abolition  of  the  Roman  Catholic  religion  by  Chrisliern 
III.  1537  ;  the  Lutheran  had  been  already  introduced  in  1526. 

12.  The  memorable  revolution  of  the  23d  October,  1660,  by 
which  the  crown  was  declared  absolute  and  hereditary.  The  sub- 
sequent events  have  been  little  memorable. 

Heligion.  The  religion  of  Denmark  is  the  Lutheran.  There 
is  no  archbishop  ;  but  the  bishoprics  arc  six  in  number,  viz. 
Zealand,  revenue  ;C  1000  ;  Funen  £760  ;  Ripen  ,S400  ;  Aarhuus 
£600  ;  Wiborg  j£400  ;  and  Aalborg  £400.  The  chief  see  is  that 
of  Zealand,  which  yields  about  £1000  a  year  ;  the  other  clerical 
orders  are  provosts,  or  archdeacons,  paiish  priests,  and  chaplains. 
The  parochial  clergy  are  maintained  by  their  glebes,  tithes,  and 
surplice  fees  ;  but  in  Jutland  some  of  the  livings  do  not  exceed 
£20  a  year. 

Governirvents.  The  constitution  of  1G55,  is  an  absolute  mon- 
archy. The  king  in  ecclesiastical  and  civil  matters  acknowledges 
no  superior.  He  has  the  sole  power  of  making  and  rejjealing 
laws,  of  forming  treaties  and  alliances,  of  making  war  and  peace, 
and  of  laying  taxes  ;  and  is  the  source  of  all  titles,  dignities,  hon- 
ors and  offices.  The  administration  of  the  kingdom  is  in  the  hands 
of  a  privy  council,  in  which  the  king  presides.  Its  numbers  are 
not  limited.  Subordinate  to  this  are  5  departments  :  I,  The 
Danish  Chancery,  superintending  the  courts  of  justice,  eclesiasiical 
affairs,  education,  patents,  privileges,  8cc.  for  Norway,  the  Isles, 
and  N.  Jutland.  2,  The  German  Chancery,  taking  the  same  care 
for  Sleswick  and  liolstein.  3,  The  Department  for  Foreign  Af- 
fairs. 4,  The  financial  college.  5,  The  Treasury,  There  is  a 
minister  at  the  head  of  each. 

Population.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  1780,  was  1,243,932  j 
in  1796,  1,490,384:  and  in  1808,  according  to  Hassel's  estimate, 
1,548,000.  Of  these  1,030,000  are  in  the  peninsula;  343,000  in 
Zealand,  including  Moen  and  Barnhoim  ;  and  175,000  in  Funen, 
including  Langeland,  Laaland  and  Falsten.  The  population  of 
the  whole  empire  is  as  follows  : 


f  Denmark, 
<  Norway, 
(^  Ferro, 


■i&U  DANISH  EMPIRE. 

,  -         1,548,000 
In  Europe,     -{Norway,       -         -       -       912,0ao 

5,300 
,     .         .  <^  Iceland,  C 1808)     -       -         47,300 

In  America,    ^  Greenland,  (1806)    -      -       ellOO 
In  Africa,  -         .         -         -  -       3,000 

2,521,700 
Jinny.     The  regular  army  of  Denmark  Proper,  from  the  lat 
est  accounts,  consibied  of 

Infantry,         -         -         -         -         - 
Cavalry,  _____ 

Artillery,       -         ,         -         -         _ 
Engineers,         -         -         -         .         _ 
In  garrisons,  _         _         -         , 

Barnholm  militia,       -         -         -         _ 

38,776 
Add  the  Norwegian  troops,       -        -        -  42,531 


81,307 
A  new  national  militia  has  lately  been  organized,  by  the  name 
^of  La?ulvaern.     It  consists  of  n)cn  between  36  and  45  years  of  age, 
who  are  to  serve  only  on  emergencies.     Of  these  there  were,  in 
J  808, 

In  Denmark  Proper,         -         _         -       59,000 
In  Norway,        -        -        -        -        -    40,000 


.99,000 

There  are  two  military  schools  in  Denmark,  and  one  in  Nor- 
way. The  Danish  fortresses  are  Copenhagen,  Cronenburg,  Cor- 
soer,  Nyeborg,  Fredericia,  Fladshand,  Rendsberg  and  Gluckstadt. 

JVavij.  In  October  1803,  the  Danish  navy  consisted  of  19 
ships  of  the  line,  15  frigates,  8  brigs,  13  gunboats.  In  Jan.  1807, 
k  was  commanded  by  7  admirals,  10  commodores,  40  captains, 
and  151  lieutenants.  Soon  after  that  time,  it  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  English. 

In  1 809  it  consisted  only  of  2  frigates,  1  brig,  1  cutter,  1  schoon- 
er, 1  floating  battery,  9  gunboats  ;  in  all  17,  mounting  191  guns. 
The  Danish  marines  are  5000  in  number. 

Revenues.  The  annual  revenue  is  stated  by  Hassel,  in  1808, 
at  10,875,000  guilders,  which  at  40  els.  a  guilder  makes  4,350,000 
-dollars.*  Of  this  sum  Denmark  contributes  g2,940,000  ;  Nor- 
way 690,000  ;  West  Indies  360,000  ;  the  toll  at  the  Sound  360,000. 
Deducting  ihat  from  the  West  Indies  there  remains  $§3,990,000. 
The  toll  of  the  Sound  varies  from  S520,000  to  720,000.  The  ex- 
penses ai-e  commonly  less  than  the  revenue.  The  debt  in  1795  was 
§7,500,000.     It  is  supposed  now  to  exceed  §12,000,000. 

*  Probably  the  Guilder  here  mentioned  by  Hassel,  is  the  Saxon  Guilder,  whitU  ' 
is  about  51  cts.  in  valuer 


DENMARK.  4455 

language.  If  we  except  the  Laponic,  the  lan^'aages  spoken 
m  the  Danish  dominions  are  all  sister  dialects  of  the  Gothic.  The 
Icelandic  is  the  most  ancient  and  venerable  ;  and  being  esteemed 
the  most  pxire  dialect  of  the  Gothic,  has  engaged  the  attention  of 
many  profound  scholars,  who  have  considered  it  as  the  parent  of 
the  Norwegian,  Danish,  and  Swedish,  and  in  a  great  degree  of  the 
English,  though  it  would  seem  that  this  last  is  more  connected  with 
the  Frisic,  and  other  dialects  of  the  north  of  Germany. 

Literature.  The  literature  of  Denmark  cannot  aspire  to  much 
antiquity,  having  followed,  as  usual,  the  introduction  of  Chris- 
tianity, which  was  not  established  till  the  eleventh  century.  Tycho 
Brahe,  the  celebrated  astronomer,  was  a  Dane.  His  little  isle  of 
Hwen,  noted  for  his  astronomical  observations,  now  belongs  to  Swe- 
den. The  botany  of  Denmark  has  been  illustrated  by  CEder  ;  and- 
Niebuhr  is  distinguished  as  an  intelligent  traveller. 

Education.  Each  parish  is  provided  with  two  or  three  schools, 
■where  children  are  taught  to  read  and  write  their  native  tongue^ 
and  the  principles  of  arithmetic  ;  the  schoolmasters  are  allowed 
about  12/.  a  year,  with  a  house,  and  some  other  advantages.*  Theres 
are  besides  many  Latin  schools  maintained  at  the  royal  expense  ; 
16  in  Holstein  ;  11  in  Sleswic  ;  19  in  Jutland,  and  the  isles  ;  and 
at  Soroe,  Odensee,  and  AUona,  there  are  superior  academfies  of 
education. 

Universities.  The  universities  are  at  Copenhagen  and  KieL 
That  of  Copenhagen  has  4  colleges  and  about  600  students.  It 
is  richly  endowed,  and  180  poor  students  are  supported  by  its 
funds.  That  of  Kiel,  founded  in  1650,  contains  24  professors  and 
300  students. 

Towns  arid  Cities.  Copenhacien,  the  chief  city  of  Denmark, 
stands  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  large  and  fertile  island  of  Zeal- 
and, about  25  miles  south  of  the  noted  sound,  where  the  vessels 
that  visit  the  Baltic  pay  a  small  tribute  to  Denmark.  It  is  the 
best  built  city  in  the  north.  It  is  regularly  fortified,  the  circum- 
ference being  between  four  and  five  miles,  and  the  inhabitants  in 
1806,  97,438.  The  harbor  is  spacious  and  convenient,  and  well 
fortified,  having  on  the  south  the  isle  of  Amak.  Copenhagen  had 
about  44Q  ships, of  about  48,000  tons.  The  number  of  vessels  en- 
tered inwards  in  1798,  was  5974.  The  magistrates  are  appointed 
by  the  king  ;  but  the  burgesses  have  deputies  to  protect  their 
Tights.     It  is  in  lat.  55  41  4  N.  and  12  25  15  E. 

The  second  city  of  Denmark  is  Altona,  on  the  Elbe,  within  gun- 
shot of  Hamburgh,  It  was  constituted  a  city  in  1664.  It  is  com- 
puted to  contain  30,000  inhabitants  and  3400  houses.  It  has  S 
places  for  public  worship,  viz.  3  Lutheran  churches,  2  Calvinistic» 
1  Catholic,  and  2  Jewish  synagogues.  It  contains  also  a  mint,  ». 
bank,  roy.al  exchange,  and  six  ship  yards.     N.  lat.  53  35. 

Kiel  stands  on  a  small  peninsula  at  the  bottom  of  a  narrow  bay 
of  the  Baltic,  in  lat.  54  22  25  N.  and  Ion.  10  26  E.  Its  harbor  is 
•^ty  convenient  for  large  ships.     It  contains  800  houses  and  800f> 

*  Coxe,  iv.  57,  r,  187, 


416  DANISH  EMPIRE. 

inhabitants,  and  is  one  of  the  most  commercial  places  in  Holsteitt. 
The  canal  connecting  the  Eyder  with  the  bay  of  Kiel  has  greatly 
increased  its  commerce. 

Schclswick  is  the  capital  of  the  province  or  dutchy  of  the  same 
name,  and  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  very  deen,  nirrow  gulf, 
called  the  Gulf  of  Sley.  It  is  an  irregjular  town  of  great  length, 
containing  1280  houses,  and  5629  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  of 
brick,  and  resemble,  in  their  neatness  and  forms,  those  of  Holland  ; 
the  inhabitants  speak  Dutch.  Germ?.n,  and  D:vnish. 

Odensce  is  the  capital  of  the  island  of  Fu\:cn,  and  stands  on  a 
small  river,  one  mile  from  its  entvanoe  into  the  Biy  orSte;^?:estrand. 
Inhabitants  5353  ;   houses  930.     Its  exports  are  grain  and  leather. 

Aalborg  stands  ahout  iO  miles  from  the  Scager-Rack  ;  on  the 
S.  side  of  the  extensive  Guif  of  Lymfort.  The  harbor  is  safe  and 
deep,  and  the  chief  exports  herrings  and  grain.  It  has  extensive 
manufactures  of  muskets,  pistols,  saddles,  and  gloves.  Inhabitants 
5200  ;  houses  831.     Lat,  57  2  32  N".  ;   Long.  10  2  11  E. 

Aarhuns  stands  between  the  Baltic  and  a  small  lake,  from  which 
a  river  runs  through  the  town.  It  has  6  gates,  2  churches,  2 
markets,  a  college,  a  free  school,  and  a  hospital.  Inhabitants  4900, 
houses  690.     Lat.  56  9  35  ;  Ion.  10  19  35. 

Gluckstadt,  about  20  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Elbe,  con- 
tains 800  houses,  and  4500  inhabitants.  Lat.  53  47  42  N.  Long, 
9  32  32  E. 

Tonningen,  on  the  Eyder,  is  a  town  of  considerable  commercial 
importance.     Inhabitants  2000. 

Inland  Xaxngation.  The  chief  inland  navigation  of  Denmark 
is  the  canal  of  Kiel.  This  canal  20  miles  in  length,  unites  the  Bay 
of  Kiel,  an  arm  of  the  Baltic,  with  the  Eyder,  which  flows  into  the 
German  sea.  Vessels  of  about  120  tor>*  pass  it.  It  was  begvm  in 
July,  1777,  and  finished  in  1785. 

iS'Ianufactures  and  Commerce.  Leather  is  manufactured  for 
exportation  in  great  quantities,  particularly  at  Altona.  The  earth- 
en ware  of  Aarhuus  and  Ripen  supplies  Denmark,  and  many  parts 
cf  Germany.  The  manufactures  of  calicoes  and  cottons,  at  Co- 
penhagen, prevent  the  necessity  of  importation  ;  as  do  those  of 
worsted  stockings  in  Jutland,  Ferro,  and  Iceland.  The  army  is 
fully  supplied  with  muskets,  bayonets  and  sabres,  by  a  manufac- 
tory near  Elsineur  ;  3500  muskets  are  made  there  annually. 
There  is  a  very  extensive  one  of  cannon,  caimon-balls,  salt-petre, 
and  gunpowder,  at  Frederickswark,  near  Isefiord  Bay.  Ribbands 
and  silk  stockings  are  made  in  great  quantities  at  Copenhagen 
and  Altona.  Two  thirds  of  the  coarse  linen  and  most  of  the  sail 
cloth  and  paper  is  made  in  the  country,  and  a  considerable  part 
of  the  woollen  cloth  ;  but  almost  all  the  fine  linen  is  imported. 
The  thread  lace  manufacture  of  Tondern  gives  employment  to 
10,000  hands.  The  manufactures  of  Denmark  have  been  nobly 
patronized  by  the  government. 

The  number  of  merchant  vessels  belonging  to  Denmark  in 
1799   was  2173,  which   are  employed    in   trade    with    Iceland, 


iDENMARK.  41^ 

Greenland,  the  West  Indies,  the  Mediterranean,  Great  Britain, 
and  other  parts  of  the  world. 

The  exports  of  Denmark  consist  of  corn,  horses,  oxen,  live  hog^s, 
and  bacon  ;  and  salt-beef,  butter,  and  cheese,  in  considerable  quan- 
tities, besides  the  various  ynanufajctures  already  mentioned.  The- 
great  tradin;^  places  are  Copsnhagen,  Altona,  Elsineur,  Aalborg, 
Flensbor^,  Gluckstadt,  and  Colding. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  Denmark  proper,  may  be  considered  as 
possessing  a  humid  and  rather  a  temperate  climate.  Yet  the  win- 
ter is  sometimes  of  extreme  severity,  and  the  sea  is  impeded  with 
ice.  The  Sound  hasj  at  times,  been  crossed  by  heavy  loaded  car* 
riages. 

Face  of  the  Counthj.  The  isle  of  Zealand,  exclusive  of  the 
windings  and  indentations  of  the  coast,  is  a  fertile  and  pleasant 
country,  with  fields  separated  by  mud  walls,  cottages  either  of  brick 
or  white-washed,  woods  of  beech  and  oak,  vales,  and  gentle  hills. 
The  same  description  will  apply  to  Funen,  which  Mr.  Marshall 
says  is  as  well  cultivated  as  most  of  the  counties  in  England. 
Holstein  and  Sleswic  are  also  level  countries  ;  Jutland  has  fertiJe 
pastures  and  oitensive  forests.  The  western  coast  of  Sleswic  is 
exposed  to  the  inroads  of  the  German  ocean,  and  is  therefore  kept 
imbanked  at  a  very  great  expense.  The  country  generally  is  a- 
greeably  diversified  with  \Voods  and  lakes. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  In  Funen,  Holstein,  and  the  south  of 
Jutland,  the  agriculture  may  be  compared  with  that  of  England. 
Ry^t  barley  and  oats  arc  found  every  where.  But  wheat  is  the 
great  staple  of  Denmark,  great  quantities  of  which  are  exported; 
In  1780,  the  country  contained  847,000  sheep. 

Rivers  and  Days.     The  Eyder  is   navigable  for  vessels  of  120 
tons  7  miles  aliove  Rendsburg,  which  is  60  miles  from  its  mouth. 
It  falls  into  the  German  ocean  through  the  bay  of  Tonningen. 
The  Elbe  bounds  Holstein  on  the  S. 

DANISH  ISLANDS. 

The  prime  seat  of  the  Danish  monarchy  having  ever  been  in  the 
isles  of  Zealand,  and  Funen,  they  have  been  considered  in  the  gen- 
eral description  of  the  monarchy.  The  other  principal  islands  in 
that  group  are  Moen,  Falster,  Laaland,  Langeland,  Femeren,  AI- 
sen,  and  Bornholm,  and  the  Ferro  islands. 

The  Fcrro,  Faro  or  Faroes  islands  are  22  in  number,  lying  be-* 
tween  lat.  6115  and  62  21  N.  and  extending  67  miles  IVom  N.  to 
S.  and  45  from  E.  to  W.  They  consist  of  a  group  of  steep  rocks 
or  hills  lying  so  close  to  each  other,  that  their  bases  are  merely- 
separated  by  a  brook.  Toward  the  sea  they  generally  terminate; 
in  perpendicular  rocks  from  1200  to  1800  feet  in  height.  Those 
declining  more  gradually  have  two  or  three  sloping  terraces,  form- 
ed by  projecting  rocks,  and  covered  with  grass.  Those  parts 
which  are  arable  have  no  where  more  than  4  feet  depth  of  soil,  ly- 
ing upon  a  rocky  bottom,  often  not  more  than  8  inches  ;  and  often 
the  side£^  are  so  steep  that  no  earth  can  remain  on  thcru.  Sevens 
53. 


41&.  SWEDEN 

teen  of  these  islands  are  inhabited.  They  were  first  peopled- is 
the  9th  century  by  some  Norwegian  pirates,  who  were  reduced  t®. 
obedience  by  Magnus  the  Good.  The  population  in  1801  was 
5265,  and  tlie  revenue  in  1790,  639/.  8s.  sterling.  The  inhabitants 
Ciijoy  peculiar  freedom.  They  live  principally  by  fishing.  The 
islands  compose  7  parishes,  divided  into  59  congregations  with 
each  its  church.  There  is  a  clergyman  in  each  parish.  The 
largest  income  is  251.  sterling.  At  one  island  it  is  necessary  to 
hoist  the  clergyman  by  a  rope  from  his  boat,  there  being  no  other 
landing.  There  is  no  schoolmaster  in  the  islands  ;  parents  in- 
struct their  own  children.  All  can  read.  They  are  remarkably 
well  instructed  in  the  Christian  religion,  and  often  thoroughly  ac» 
quainted  with  the  Bible.  The  men  dress  plainly  ;  the  women 
are  fond  of  ornaments.  They  are  remarkably  kind  and  upright  in 
rases  of  shipwreck.  ^ 


SWEDEN, 

Extent.  THE  kingdom  of  Sweden,  from  lat.  55  20  N.  to  lat. 
iSg  so  N.  is  1000  miles  in  length.  The  average  breadth  at  present 
is  about  220.  The  number  of  square  miles  in  Sweden,  including 
Finland,  according  to  Hassel,  is*  288,160  ;  from  which  deducting 
those  of  Finland,  there  will  remain  for  Sweden  188,433  square 
miles. 

Boundaries.  Sweden  is  bounded  N.  by  Norway;  E.  partly  by 
Russia,  principally  by  the  Baltic  ;  S.  by  the  Baltic  ;  W.  by  the 
Cattegat,  Norway,  and,  for  a  small  distance,  by  the  Atlantic. 

Divisions.  Sweden  is  divided  into  four  great  districts,  or  gov- 
ernments, viy- 

1.  Gothland.  3.  Norland. 

2.  Sweden  Proper.  4.  Lapland. 

Sweden  possesses  the  island  of  St.  Bartholomew  in  the  West-- 
Indies. 

Finland,  which  was  formerly  a  part  of  Sweden,  now  belongs  to 
Hussia,  Swedish  Pomerania,  also,  a  small  territory  on  the  coast 
of  Upper  Saxony,  containing  U40  square  miles,  and  103,345  in- 
habitants, belongs  to  this  government. 

^  Historical  Efiochs.     The  following  seem  to  constitute  the  chief  ^ 
historical  epochs  of  Sweden  ; 

1.  The  early  population  by  the  Fins  and  Laplanders. 

2.  The  conquest  by  the  Goths. 

3.  The  conquest  of  Denmark  by  Olaf  IL  about  the  year  900. 

4.  The  partial  conversion  of  Sweden  to  Christianity  in  the  reign 
ofOlaf  Ill.A.  D.  1000. 

5.  The  Swedes,  discontented  with  their  king,  Albert  of  Meck- 
lenburg, in  1388  elect  as  their  sovereign  Margaret,  heiress  of 
Denmark  and  Norway.  Thus  ended  the  Folkungian  race  :  and 
by  the  celebrated  treaty  of  Colmar,  A.  D.  1397,  the  three  king- 
doms of  the  north  were  supposed  to  be  united  for  ever.     But  after 


SWEDEN.  -41.9 

rthe  death  of  Margaret  in  1412,  the  Swedes  began  to  struggle  for 
^heir  liberty;  and  in  1449  Karl  or  Charles  VIII.  was  elected  king 
of  Sweden. 

6.  The  struggles  between  Denmark  and  Sweden,  till  the  crueJ 
and  tyrannic  reign  of  Christiern  II.  king  of  Denmark,  Norway  and 
Sweden. 

7.  Tyrants  are  the  fathers  of  freedom.  Gustaf  Wase,  whom 
we  style  Gustavus  Vasa,  delivers  his  country  from  the  Danish 
yoke,  after  a  contest  which  forms  one  of  the  most  interesting  por- 
tions of  modern  history.  The  revolt  may  be  considered  as  having 
ooramenccd  when  Gustaf  appeared  at  Mora  in  Dalecarlia,  A.  D. 
1520,  and  completed  three  year«  afterwards,  when  he  entered 
Stockholm  in  triumph.  Dissatisfied  with  the  power  of  the  clergy, 
which  had  repeattdly  subjugated  the  kingdom  to  Denmark,  this 
great  prince,  1527,  introduced  the  reformed  religion,  and  died  in 
his  seventieth  year,  September,  1560,  after  a  glorious  reign  of  37 
years. 

8.  The  reign  of  Gustaf  Adolph,  or  Gustavus  Adolphus,  A.  D. 
1611  — 1631.  Austria,  Spain,  aiid  ilie  otlicr  Catholic  kingdoms, 
having  conspired  to  extirpate  the  Protestant  religion  in  Germany, 
this  king  was  invited  to  assist  the  reformed,  and  carried  his  victo- 
rious arms  to  the  Riiine  and  the  Danube. 

9.  The  reign  of  Charles  XI.  16dO — 1697,  when  the  arts  and 
sciences  began  to  floii.rish,  and  the  power  of  the  kingdom  was  car- 
ried to  its  utmost  height.  Thib  reign  of  solid  beneficence  was  fol- 
lowed by  the  calamitous  sway  of  that  madman  Charles  XII. 

10.  After  the  weak  reign  of  Charles  XII.  Sweden  sunk  into  po- 
litical humiliation  ;  and  is  now  regarded  as  little  better  than  a 
province  of  France,  to  which  disgrace  the  Swedish  aristocracy  as 
naturally  tends  as  that  of  Poland. 

11.  On  the  lOth  of  May,  1809,  Gustavus  IV.  the  reigning  mon- 
arch, was  dethroned,  by  the  intrigues  of  France.  His  uncle,  the 
Duke  of  Sudermania,was  appointed  to  succeed  him.  Bernadotte, 
a  marshal  of  France,  was  soon  after  elected  Crown  Prince. 

Religion.  The  established  religion  is  the  Lutheran.  There 
are  14  dioceses.  The  revenues  of  Upsala  and  Woesteras  are  a- 
bout  /"lOOO  sterling  per  ann.  Those  of  tiie  lowest  bishoprics  about 
jCSOO.  The  subordinate  clergy  are  deans,  archdeacons,  rectors, 
and  perpetual  curates.  The  parishes  are  estimated  at  2537  ;  the 
curates  at  1378;  with  134  rectors,  192  inspectors.  Some  of  the 
parishes  are  very  extensive. 

Government.  The  government  of  Sweden  is  a  limited,  heredi- 
tary monarchy.  The  supreme  power  is  in  the  diet,  which  is  com- 
posed of  the  king  and  the  states.  The  king  has  the  command  of 
the  army  and  navy,  fills  up  all  commissions,  nominates  to  all  civil 
offices,  and  appoints  the  judges  of  the  various  courts  He  alone 
convenes  and  dissolves  the  states,  has  the  disposal  of  the  public 
money,  declares  war  and  inakes  peace.  The  power  of  making 
laws  and  of  laying  taxes,  is  ves  ed  in  the  diet,  and  the  king  can- 
not do  either  without  the  consent  of  the  states.  The  states  are 
composed  of  four  houses:   1.  The  House  of  Nobhi.    2.  T/ie  Nense 


4S0  SWEDEN. 

of  the  Clergy.  3.   The  House  of  CUizent.     4.  The  House  of  FeaS' 

ants. 

Pojiulation.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  Sweden,  including 

Rnland,  was,  in 

1752,  2,215,639                           1785,  2,821,669 

1760,  2,383,113                           1790,  2,864,512 

1775,  2,640,177           1795,  3,045,617 

1776,  2,671,949          1800,  3,182,139 
1780,  2,769,623 

The  number  of  males  in  1776  was  1,284,989,  and  of  females, 
^,386,962.  Of  the  population  in  1800,  12,068  were  of  the  order  of 
the  nobility  ;  16,434  of  the  clergy  ;  7126  students;  1275  of  the 
wholesale  merchants  ;  17,233  retailers  ;  2605  of  the  manufactur- 
ers ;  87,434  mechanics  ;  19,653  of  the  seafaring  men  ;  188,734  of 
the  army  and  navy  ;  and  556,581  of  other  descriptions. 

The  population  of  the  various  provinces  in  1300  was  as  follows. 

Sduare  E-iiles.  Inhabitants.  jpo.  on  a  sqtiare  milco 

Gothland,                       41,931  1;454,462                    34-7 

Sweden  Proper,         40,577  653,767                 16-1 

Norland  ik  Lapland,  105,925  239,072                    2-16 

^'inland,                         99,627  834,838                     8-38 


Sweden,  238,160  3,182,139  II 

As  Finland  now  belongs  to  Russia,  the  population  of  Sweden j. 
exclusive  of  that  province,  is  2,347,30 1,  or  about  1 2-5  to  the  square 
mile. 

Army.  The  Swedish  army  consists  of  national  and  regulas^ 
troops  to  the  number  of  53,025,  viz. 

Cavalry,  ...         -         12,000 

Infantry,     -         -         -         -         -     34,171 
Artillery,         -         .         -         .  3,230 

Engineers,  -         -         >         -  800 

Gailey-soldiers,       .         -         -  2,706 

Life  Guards,       -         -         -         -  128 

Of  these  18,424  are  regular  troops. 
A'avy.     The  fleet  in  1308  consisted  of  58  sail,  viz. 
Ships  of  the  line,  -         -         -         20 

Frigates,  -         -         -         -         -     16 

Brigs,  ,         .         -         -         -  7 

Smaller  vessels,        -         -         -        -     15 
These  were  under  the  direction  of  1  Hijh  Admiral,  I  Admi^Kilv 
6  Vice- Admirals,  and  1 1  Rear- Admirals. 

The  whole  fleet  v.as  manned  by  1500  marines  and  7200  sea- 
Jlicn,  with  a  reserve  of  8000  for  a  time  of  v.ar  ;  and  carried  2760 
cannon. 

Besides  these,  the  galley  fleet  consisted  of  200  sail  in  5  squad- 
rons, defended  by  2706  soldiers.  This  is  called  the  fleet  of  the 
army,  and  is  used  in  transporting  them  across  the  Baltic. 

Revenue.  The  revenue  in  1  809  is  stated  by  Hassel  at  6,000,000. 
Swedish  rix-dollars,  which  at  5^.  sterling,  each,  is  >C  1,500,000 
Sterling.    This  anses  chiefly  from  duties^  royal  demesnes,  poll' 


SWEDEN.  421 

tax,  stamps,  taxes  on  the  mines,  and  the  lottery.  The  expense 
commonly  exceeds  the  nvenue.  The  debt  in  1807  was  13,233,632 
rix-doUars,  of  which  9,742,642  -was  foreign  debt,  and  3,490,990 
domestic. 

Maimers  and  Customs,  The  manners  and  customs  of  the  supe- 
rior classea  in  Sweden  are  so  much  tinged  with  those  of  the  French, 
that  no  striking  peculiarity  can  be  observed,  and  even  the  peasant- 
ry lave  so  much  vivacity  and  address,  that  they  have  been  styled 
the  French  of  the  north.  As  their  alliance  with  the  French  has 
ceased,  their  raannei  s  will  probably  be  changed. 

Language.  Tiie  language  of  Sweden  is  a  dialect  of  the  Gothic, 
being  a  sister  of  the  Danish,  Norwegian,  and  Icelandic. 

L,iterature.  In  the  last  century  the  name  of  Linnaeus  alone 
might  distinguish  the  national  literature  ;  and  it  is  joined  in  natural 
al  history  with  those  of  Tilas,  Wallerius,  Quist,  Cronstadt,  Berg- 
man, anci  others.  In  history,  Dalin  and  Lagerbring  have  distin- 
guished themselves  by  a  precision  and  force,  which  tlie  Danes 
seem  to  sacrifice  to  antiquarian  discussions.  Sweden  also  boasts 
of  native  poets  and  orators ;  and  the  progress  of  the  sciences  is 
supported  by  the  institution  of  numerous  academics. 

Jiducation.  The  Swedes,  like  the  New-Englanders,the  Scotch, 
and  the  inhabitants  of  Iceland,  Ferro,  and  Geneva,  are  universally 
acquainted  with  reading  and  writing.  A  school  is  established  in 
every  parish  for  these  purposes,  and  all  the  inhabitants  send  their 
children.  A  public  school  is  maintained  also  in  each  large  town, 
at  the  expense  of  the  crown,  in  which  boys  commonly  continue  till 
the  11th  or  12th  year,  when  they  are  sent  to  the  Gymnasia.  Of 
these  there  are  12,  and  the  boys  are  here  taught  Latin,  Greek,  and 
Hebrew,  the  doctrines  of  the  Lutheran  Church,  and  the  rudiments 
of  the  scicBces.  The  great  body  of  the  Swedish  youths  pass, 
through  these  inbtitulions.  At  the  age  of  16  they  are  usually  sent 
to  one  of  the  universities.  Of  these,  there  are  3  in  Sweden  ;  that 
of  Lund,  in  Gothland,  that  of  Upsala,  in  Sweden  Proper,  and  that 
of  j(^bo,  in  Finland.  That  of  Lund  has  15  professors  and  300  stu- 
dents, and  a  library  of  20,000  volumes.  The  university  of  Upsala 
had  upwards  of  2000  students  in  irSO;  but  in  1800  only  500, 
There  were  21  professors,  6  in  theology,  2  in  law,  3  in  medicine, 
and  10  in  philosophy,  besides  7  instructers  in  the  elegant  arts. 
The  library  is  large  and  valuable.  The  university  of  Abo  has  16 
professors,  300  students,  and  a  library  coiitaining  10,000  volumes. 

Cities  and  To'-ums.  Stockholm,  the  capital  of  Sweden,  stands 
between  a  creek,  or  inlet,  of  the  Baltic  sea,  and  the  lake  Msler. 
It  occupies  seven  nnall  rocky  islandij,  and  the  scenery  is  truly 
singular  ^nd  romantic.  Most  of  the  houses  are  of  stone  or  brick, 
covered  with  white  stucco  ;  e:ccept  in  the  suburbs,  where  several 
are  of  wood  painted  red,  as  is  usual  in  Sweden.  The  entrance  to 
the  harbor  is  through  a  narrow  slrait,  of  somewhat  dilTscult  access, 
especially  as  there  are  no  tides  ;  and  for  four  months  in  the  year  is 
frozen.  It  is  however,  deep,  and  capable  of  receiving  a  great 
iaumber  of  vessels.    The  population  of  Stockholm  in  1800  wau 


422  SWEDEN. 

75,517,  and  the  houses  4137.*     It  is  in  lat.  59   20  31   N.  •  Son 
!8  9  50  E.  * 

Upsala  stands  in  the  middle  of  an  open  fertile  plain,  and  is  di> 
vided  into  two  almost  equal  parts  by  the  rivulet  Sala.  The  streets 
are  diawn  at  right  angles  ;  the  houses  are  generally  constructed 
<of  trunks,  smoothed  into  planks,  painted  red  ;  and  the  roofs  are 
covered  with  tuif.  Each  house  has  a  court-yard  and  garden. 
This  is  tiie  oldest  town  in  the  north,  and  was  till  the  17ih  century, 
the  metropolis,  and  the  royal  residence.  The  inhabitants  in  1799 
amounted  to  4403,  and  the  houses  to  580.  It  is  45  miles  from 
Stoekhoim,  in  lat.  39  5  1  50  N.  and  Ion.  17  42  39  E. 

Carlscrona  is  the  chief  road  for  the  royal  navy,  and  stands  prin- 
cipally up<jn  a  small  rocky  island  in  the  Baltic,  connected  with  the 
main  by  a  dyke  and  two  wooden  bridges.  The  town  is  spacious, 
the  houses  principally  of  wood,  is  strongly  fortified,  and  difficult  Oif 
access.  Several  noble  docks  have  been  formed  out  pf  the  solid 
rock  for  repairing  the  ships  of  war,  most  of  which  are  built  at  this 
place,  and  by  English  workmen.  The  population  in  1795  was 
13,800.     Lat.  56  11  N.  Ion.  13  7  E. 

Gothenburg,  in  lat.  57  42  4  N.  and  Ion.  12  3  22  E,  stands  a  small 
distance  frorn  the  Cattegat,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Gotha  and  the 
Moldal.  It  is  3  miles  in  circumference.  The  houses,  1100  in 
Bumber,  are  principally  of  wood,  painted  red.  Population  13,218. 
The  harbor  is  between  two  chains  of  rocks,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
wide,  and  is  fortified. 

Nordkioping  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  Motala,  the  outlet  of 
Lake  Wetter,  22  miles  from  the  Baltic,  in  lat.  58  30  N.  It  is  10 
miles  in  circumference.  The  houses  are  small  and  scattered,  and 
the  population  in  1795  was  8629.  Several  valuable  manufactories 
are  established  here.  The  river  affords  a  valuable  salmon  fishery, 
and  is  navigable  for  small  vessels  to  the  town. 

Fahlun  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  rocks  and  hills,  between  the 
Jakes  of  Run  and  Warpen.  The  houses,  1135  in  number,  are 
chiefly  of  wood,  and  two  stories.  The  inhabitants  in  1801  were 
6064  ;   many  of  iheiTi  are  enjpioyed  in  the  mines.   Lat.  60  35  49  N. 

Roads.  Great  attention  has  been  paid  by  the  government  to 
the  roads  of  Sweden.  Though  not  so  broad,  they  are  as  good  as 
the  English  turnpikes.  The  traveller,  journeying  many  thousands 
of  miles,  and  in  every  direction,  will  find  scarce  one  that  deserves 
the  name  of  indifferent.  No  loll  is  exacted.  Each  landholder  is 
obliged  to  keep  a  part  in  repair,  proportioned  to  bis  property. 

Inland  .Yavigation.  Of  iaie  a  iaudable  attention  has  been  paid 
to  inland  navigation  ;  and  the  chief  cffoit  has  been  to  form  a  canal 
between  Stockholm  and  Gotiienburg 

Manufuctures  and  Commerce.  The  Swedish  manufactures  are 
far  from  being  numerous,  consisting  chitfly  of  those  of  ii'on  and 
steel ;  with  cloths,  hats,  watches,  and  sail  cloth.  The  manufac- 
tures of  copper  and  brass,  and  the  construction  of  ships,  also  oc- 
•ciipy  many  hands.     In  1785,  it  was  computed  that   14,000  were 

*.Ha5seI. 


SWEDEN.  42S: 

employed  in  those  of  wool,  silk,  and  cotton.  Of  native  products- 
exported,  iron  is  the  most  considerable  ;  and  it  is  said  that  the 
miners  in  the  kingdom  are  about  25,600. 

The  commerce  of  Sweden  rests  chiefly  on  the  export  of  their 
native  products,  iron,  timber,  pitch,  tar,  hemp,  and  copper.  Her- 
rings  and  train  oil  also  form  considerable  articles.  The  chiei  im- 
port is  corn  of  various  kinds,  particularly  rye,  Sweden  rarely  at- 
fording  a  sufficiency  for  her  own  consumption  ;  with  hemp,  tobac- 
co, sugar,  coffee,  drugs,  silk,  wines.  Sec.  The  exports  in  1781 
amounted  to  l,368j830^.  los,  5d.  and  the  imports  to  1,008, }92/<, 
12a-.  4|(f. 

Ciimate  and  Seasons.  The  diffi^rent  parts  of  Sweden  present 
considerable  varieties  of  temperature,  but  even  in  the  middle  re- 
gions winter  maintains  a  long  and  dreary  sway.  In  the  most 
southern  provinces,  where  the  grand  mass  of  the  population  is  cen- 
tered, the  climate  may  be  compared  to  that  of  Scotland. 

JFace  of  the  Country.  Soil  and  Agriculture.  No  country  can 
be  diversified  in  a  more  picturesque  manner,  with  extensive  lakes,. 
Jarge  transparent  rivers,  winding  streams,  wild  cataracts,  gloomy 
forests,  verdant  vales,  stupendous  rocks,  and  cultivated  fielda. 
The  soil  is  not  the  most  propitious  ;  but  agriculture  is  conducted- 
■with  skill  and  industry,  so  as  much  to  exceed  that  of  Germany. 
and  Denmark. 

Rivers.  The  Gotha  is  the  only  outlet  ofthe  vast  lake  of  Wener, 
Its  length  is  70  English  miles,  and  its  course  W.  of  S.  Its  navi- 
gation is  much  impeded  by  cataracts. 

The  Motala,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Wetter,  pursues  an  easterly 
course  of  sixty-five  miles,  to  the  Baltic.  Its  estuary  is  the  Bay  of 
Brunic. 

The  Dahl,  the  most  important  in  Sweden,  after  a  course  of  about 
260  British  miles,  enters  the  Bothiiic  gulf,  about  10  miles  east  oF 
Geffle. 

Lakes.  Of  these  the  most  important  is  the  Wener,  which  is 
about  80  miles  in  length,  by  about  50  in  breadth. 

Next  is  the  Wetter,  a  lake  of  equal  length,  but  in  breadth,  about 
12  miles.  ■? 

The  lake  Meier,  at  the  conflux  of  which  with  the  Baltic  is  found- 
ed the  city  of  Stockholm,  is  about  60  miles  in  length  by  18  in 
breadth,  and  is  sprinkled  with  picturesque  isK  s. 

Mountains.  Sweden  may  be  in  general  regarded  as  a  moun- 
tainous country  ;  in  which  respect  it  is  strongly  contrasted  with 
Denmark  proper,  or  Jutland,  and  the  isles.  The  chief  mountains 
are  in  that  elevated  chain,  which  divides  Sweden  and  Swedish 
Lapland  from  Norway  ;  from  which  successive  branches  run  in  a 
S.  E.  direction. 

Mineralogy.  Sweden  produces  gold,  silver,  and  copper  ;■  bu'-; 
iron  forms  its  principal  product.  It  abounds  in  beautiful  gi'anltCj 
and  has  also  marble  and  porphyry. 


434  UtrSSIAN  EMPIRE. 


SWEDISH  ISLANDS. 

Sweden  possesses  many  islands,  scattered  in  the  Baltic  sea  andl 
gulf  of  Bothnia.  Oland  is  in  length  about  70  miles,  in  breadth  6. 
The  inhabitants  are  computed  at  near  8000.  The  sailors  be- 
longing to  the  crown  are  generally  quartered  here.  Next  occurs 
the  island  of  Gothland,  known  to  the  literary  world  by  the  travels 
of  Linnaeus,  about  70  miles  in  length,  and  24  in  breadth  ;  a  fertile 
district,  remarkable  for  an  excellent  breed  of  sheep.  Wisbury  is 
the  capital,  the  population  of  which  is  3745. 

The  isles  of  Aland  lie  in  the  entrance  of  the  gulf  of  Bothnia, 
between  lat.  59  47  and  60  30  N.  and  Ion.  19  17  and  22  71  E. 
They  are  80  in  number.  The  largest,  Aland,  is  40  miles  long, 
and  16  broad.  These  islands  form  7  parislies,  each  of  which  has  a 
church.  The  inhabitants  speak  the  Swedish  language.  Those  of 
Aland  alone  amounted,  in  1792,  to  11,260. 


RUSSIAN  EMPIRE. 

THIS  mighty  empire,  the  largest  in  ancient  oi'  modern  history, 
reaches  from  the  gulf  of  Bothnia,  to  the  western  coast  of  America  ; 
and  from  the  Frozen  ocean  to  Turkey,  Persia,  and  Independent 
and  Chinese  Tartary.  On  the  Frozen  ocean,  it  extends  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Enissey,  in  about  Ion.  31  E.  to  East  cape,  in  Ion.  190 
E.  or  170  W.  On  the  Pacific,  it  extends  southward  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Amour,  in  lat.  53  20  N.  On  the  Caspian  sea,  its  most 
southern  limit,  is  Derbent,  in  lat.  42  8  N.  The  Phasis  bounds  it 
on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Black  sea,  and  the  Neister  on  the  west- 
ex'n.  Polangen,  in  lat.  55  50,  is  its  southern  limit  on  the  Baltic. 
The  countries  which  it  comprehends,  together  with  their  popula- 
tion  and  extent,  are  stated  by  Hassel  as  follows. 

I.  EUROPEAN  RUSSIA. 


No. 

Provinces. 

Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1808, 

1. 

Baltic  Provinces 

5 

234,5  I  I 

3,217,500 

2. 

Great  Russia 

16 

1,246,638 

13,821,000 

3. 

Little  Russia 

7 

219,578 

7,743,900 

4. 

Black  or  White  Russia 

3 

84,646 

4,459,200 

5. 

Russian  Poland 

5 

121,090 

4,223,300 

6. 

New  Russia 

3 

224,118 

1,704,400 

DoQskoi  Cossacks 

92,016 

354,000 

Total,  39  2,006,687  32,129,20# 


RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE. 


II.  ASIATIC  RUSSIA. 


i.  Kasan 

2.  Astrachan 

3.  Siberia 


1.  Aleutian  Isles 

2.  N.  VV.  Coast 

3.  Spitzbergen 


Ifo.  Provinces. 
3 
7 
6 


Square  Mikt^ 

353,734 

1,507,254 

6,588,472 


Total  16  8,449,460 

III.  AMERICAN  RUSSIA. 

10,774 


Population  in  1808. 
4,850,900 
2,913,400 
1,510,700 

9,274,000 


Grand  Total,  55  10,456,147  42,444,100* 

To  this  amount  should  be  added  the  population   of  Russian  A* 
merica,  which  is  unknown. 

In  the  whole  of  the  Russian  dominions  are  reckoned  1650  cities;, 
and  160,000  villages. 

14,000,000  souls, 

16,000,000 

20,000,000 

28,000,000 

32,000,000 

37,000,000t 

46,000,000i: 


Russia  contained  in  1719 
1743 
1761 
1781 
1794 
1795 
18H 


RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE. 

£xtent.  THE  length  of  Russia  in  Europe,  from  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  Crimea,  in  lat.  44  35,  to  the  northern  extrcmilv 
of  Russian  Lapland,  in  70  N.  is  1470  miles.  Its  breadth  in  the 
north,  from  ihe  gulf  of  Bothnia  to  the  Uralian  mountains,  is  about 
38  degrees  of  longitude,  or  1200  miles.  Farther  south  the  country- 
is  narrower.  The  area  is  estimated  by  Pinkerton  at  1,200,000,  or 
with  the  late  addition  of  Finland,  at  1,300,000.  This  estimate  i% 
we  believe,  more  accurate  than  that  of  Hassel,  who  calculates  it  at 
2,006,687.     Probably  however  the  truth  is  between  them. 

Boundaries.  Russia  in  Europe  is  bounded  N.  by  the  Frozen 
ocean  ;  E.  by  Russian  Asia  ;  S.  by  the  Black  sea  and  Turkey  ; 
W.  by  Austrian  and  Prussian  Poland,  the  Baltic,  Sweden  and 
Norway. 

Historical  Efiochs.  In  1476,  Ivan,  Grand  Prince  of  White  Rus-^ 
sia,  subjugated  the  Tartar  kingdom  of  Kazan,  and  in  1477,  part  of 
the  principality  of  Great  Russia.  Ivan  II.  subdued  Astrachan  in 
I554j,  and  soon  after  the  whole  of  Caucasus.     He  also  began  ih** 

*  Including  Swedish  Finland. 

t  Lithuania  and  Courland  were  added  to  Russia- 

I  See  Resources  of  Russia,  p.  8  &  9. 

54 


4,26%  RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE. 

conquest  of  Siberia.     Alexey  reduced  Kiow  and  the  Ukraine,  in  ^ 
1655;  and  Peter  the   Great,  in    1721,  acquired  the  remainder  of  ^ 
Great  Russia  and  tlie  Baltic  provinces,  and  several  provinces  frona 
Persia,  on  the  west  of  the  Caspian.     Catharine,  in  1783,  gained  the 
Crimea,  and  in  1791  the  covnury  between  the  Bog  and  the  Neister, 
from  the  Turks.     In  1793,  she  reduced   Little  Poland  and  Lithu-- 
ania  ;  and,  in  1796,  the  rest  of  the  Russian  Polish  provinces.     At 
the  peace  of  Tilsit,  in  1807,  Russia  wrested  from  Prussia  a  great 
part  of  New  East  Prussia,  and  formed  it  into  a  province,  called 
Byalistock,  containing  5579  square  miles,  and  183,300  inhabitant^'; 
and  in  1810,  she  added  Swedish  Finland  to  her  empire. 

J\ations.  The  Slavonians  are  at  present  the  majority  of  the 
Russian  population.  They  compose  five  distinct  classes  of  in- 
habitants. 1.  T\\&  Russian  Slavi.  2.  Tht  JRclish  Slavi.  3.  The 
Servians.  4.  The.  Lithuanians.  5.  The -^e?«es,  who  occupy  four 
of  the  nine  circles  of  Livonia,  the  whole  of  Courland  and  Semir 
gallia,  and  the  bishopric  of  Pilten. 

The  Cossacks,  a  term  signifying  armed  warriors,  are  of  Slavonic- 
an  origin,  and  are  divided  into  two  great  branches,  the  Malo-Rus- 
sian,  or  Cossacks  of  Little  Russia,  and  the  Donskoi,  or  Cossacks 
of  the  Don.  Their  warriors  are  numerous  and  noted  for  their 
bravery. 

The  Finns  compose  12. tribes  under. the,  government  of  Russia  ; 
and  one,  the  Plungariajis,  under  that  of  Austria. 

Religion.  The  religion  of  Russia  is  that  of  the  Greek  church. 
Before  the  year  1588  the  p  itriarch  of  Constantinople  was  the  head 
of  the  Russian  churches.  In  that  year  Job,  the  metropolitan  of 
Moscow,  was  constituted  patriarch.  He  had  ten  successors.  The 
last,  Adrian,  died  in  1699,  and  the  cfhce  was  formally  abolished  by 
Peter  the  Great,  in  1721.  Its  powers  and  duties  were  transferred 
to  a  council,  called  the  Sacred  Synod,  composed  of  the  emperor, 
who  is  president  ;  a  vice-president,  who  is  generally  the  metro« 
politan  archbishop  ;  and  a  immber  of  counsellors  and  assessors. 

The  clergy  are  divided  into  regular  and  secular.  The  regular 
.clergy  are  the  bishops  ;  the  abbots  ;  and  the  priors.  There  are 
31  bishoprics,  yielding  each  a  salary  of  from  ;Cl000  to  £1200  sterl- 
ing, per  ann.  There  are,  in  the  whole  empire,  480  monasteries, 
superintended  by  abbots  and  priors,  and  containing  7300  monks  ; 
and  74  nunneries,  superintended  by  abbesses,  and  containing  1300 
nuns.  The  principal  wealth  of  the  church  is  centered  in  the  moni- 
asteries.  None  of  the  regular  clergy  are  permitted  to  mnrry.  The 
Bumberof  parish  churches, in  the  empire,  is  18,350,  beside  severaf 
thousand  chapels,  and  the  numerous  churches  of  the  dissenters. 
The  whole  number  of  the  clergy,  regular  and  secular,  is  comput- 
ed at  67,900,  witliout  including  their  families.  They  are  all  ex- 
empted from  taxation. 

Government.  The  government  is  imperial.  Peter  the  Great 
was  the  first  who  claimed  the  name  of  Emperor.  The  sovereign 
is  despotic  in  his  autliority.  The  throne  is  heritable  by  both  sexes.. 
The  reigning  monarch,  however,  may  appoint  any  one  of  his  own 
family  as  his  successor.     The  emperor  has  a  privy  council,  called 


■RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE,  427 

tthe  directing  senate,  subordinate  to  which  were  six  colioges.  In 
•1802,  the  government  underwent  a  change  in  its  organizaiion,  and 
-instead  of  colleges,  it  is  now  divided  hilo  eight  departments,  with  a 
minister  at  the  head  of  each,  all  under  the  control  of  the  directing; 
^senate  ;  whose  reports  arc  submitted  to  the  en)peror,  viz.  The 
minister  for  foreign  aflairs — for  the  land  forces — for  the  navaf 
forces — of  justice — -of  the  interior — of  iinances — of  commerce — of 
national  civilization.*  These,  in  their  authority,  extend  over  the 
whole  empire.  The  governmtius,  into  which  Russia  io  divided, 
have  each  their  governor  general,  executive  councils,  and  courts 
of  justice.  The  circles,  into  which  the  governments  are  divided, 
have  also  their  respective  courts.  Capital  punishments  are  ex- 
tremely rare. 

Pojiulation.     See  Tabic. 

Army.  The  Russian  army,  in  1805,  composed  of  various  kinds 
cf  troops,  amounted  to  659,054,  under  ihe  command  of  5  field-mar- 
«hals,  74  generals,  1 30  lieutenant-generals,  353  major  and  briga- 
dier-generals. The  irregular  troops,  Cossacks  and  Tartars,  had 
also  their  own  officers.  Jriassel  also  mentions,  that  since  1806, 
Russia  has  had  a  species  of  national  guards,  or  militia,  to  the  num- 
ber of  612,000  men. 

J\avij.  In  1805  the  Russian  navy  consisted  of  32  ships  of  the 
line,  18  frigates,  59  smaller  ships,  and  a  galley  fleet,  of  226 — Total 
355,  carrying  4428  guns,  33,507  sailors,  4000  gunners,  and  8262 
marines  ;  and  were  commanded  by -25  admirab,  J3  commodores, 
and  61  captains. 

Revenue.  Hassel  states  -the  Russian  revenue  in  1809,  at 
1 15,000,000  roubles,  equal  in  value  to  as  many  dollars. 

The  expenditure  of  1802,  amounted  to  33)052,696  roubles  or 
dollars,  besides  one  million  for  tlie  support  of  schools.  The  above 
amoinit,  however,  is  much  below  the  real  expenses.  The  Rus- 
sian domestic  debt  amounted  at  the  above  period  to  100,000,000 
roubles  ;  foreign  debt,  in  1786,  to  6,600,000  roubles. 

Manners  and  Customs.  As  the  Russain  empire  comprises  so 
many  distinct  races  of  men,  the  manners  of  course  must  bo  very 
various.  The  Slavonic  Russians,  who  constitute  the  chief  mass 
and  soul  of  this  empire,  are  generally  middle  sized  and  vigorous. 
Tne  general  physiognomy  consists  of  a  small  mouth,  thin  lips, 
■\>'ute  teeth,  small  eyes,  a  low  forehead,  the  nose  commonly  small, 
and  turned  upwards,  beard  very  bushy,  hair  generally  reddish. f 
The  expression  of  the  countenance  is  gravity,  with  good  nature, 
or  sagacity  ;  the  gait  and  gestures  lively  and  impassioned.  The 
Russian  is  patient  of  hunger  and  thirst ;  and  his  cure  for  all  dis- 
eases is  the  warm  bath,  or  rather  vapor  bath,  in  which  the  heat  is 
above  100°  of  Fahrenheit's  thermometer. 

l^anguage.     The  Slavonian  is  one  of   the  primitive   languages 

of  Europe  ;    and,   in  its  various  dialects,  more  extensively  spokeij 

ithan  any  of  the  others.  The  Russian  dialect  of  the  Slavonian  is  rich 

sand  harmonious.     The  Roman  letters  have  been  adopted  by  the 

Slavonian  Catholics. 

'-*  Eustaphiev*.  |  Tooke,  ii.  253. 


42S  RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE. 

Literature.  The  first  introduction  of  literature  rriust  be  ascribea. 
to  Vladimir  the  Great  ;  who  on  his  conversion  to  Christianity  in 
988,  instituted  schools,  and  passed  a  decree  regulating  the  educa- 
tion of  youth. 

The  Greek  language  is  taught  in  a  few  schools.  Latin  is  more 
common.  Many  of  the  cla&sics  have  been  translated,  and  several 
of  the  most  approved,  published  in  the  original  at  Petersburg  aad 
Moscow. 

JLducadon  and  U/iivcrsides.  Russia  has  six  principal  universi- 
ties in  the  towns  of  Moscow,  St.  Petersburg,  Charcow,  Bazan^ 
Vilensk  and  Dcrpt  :  all  which,  wilh  the  exception  of  the  last,  are 
maintained  by  government,  at  the  annual  expense  of  625,000 
roubles. 

There  are  besides,  public  seminaries,  gymnasiums,  academies, 
and  schools  about  1022  in  number,  the  expense  of  which  is  961,480 
roubles  a  year,  so  that  the  education  of  youth  costs  the  govern- 
ment altogether  1,586,480  roubles  a  year,  and  the  number  of  both 
sexes  receiving  instruction  is  46,582. 

The  ecclesiastical  colleges  are  not  included  here,  and  are  52  in 
number,  containing  382  teachers,  26,781  students,  and  supported 
at  the  rate  of  352,555  roubles  a  year.  To  these  ought  to  be  added 
the  imperial  academy  of  sciences,  imperial  Russian  academy, 
medical  academy,  land  cadets,  artillery  cadets,  marine  cadets,  two 
navigation  schools,  and  1  for  naval  architecture,  commercial  school, 
school  for  the  orphan  children  of  officers  and  soldiers,  school  for 
pages,  for  mineralogy,  jurisprudence,  and  the  imperial  academy 
of  arts  ;  the  annual  -expense  of  which,  as  well  as  the  number  of 
students  are  very  considerable.  Besides  these  institutions  there 
are  many  private  schools  in  every  province,  which  are  of  course 
omitted. 

Cities  and  Torons.  Moscow*  stands  upon  the  Moskva,  a  branch 
of  the  Occa,  a  tributary  of  the  Volga,  in  lat.  55  45  45  N.  and  lon. 
37  38  30  E.  It  is  26  miles  in  circumference,  and,  in  1808,  con- 
tained 600,000  inhabitants,  composed  of  many  different  nations. 
It  contains  also,  exclusive  of  chapels,  484  public  churches,  with 
•numerous  bells,  some  immensely  large  ;  one  of  128,000  lbs. 
weight  ;  another  of  288,000  ;  and  another  still  larger  ef  432,000. 
Moscow  has  a  university,  a  monastery,  and  a  foundling  hospital. 

St.  Petersburg,  the  capital  of  this  vast  empire,  in  lat.  59  56  2,1 
N.  and  Ion.  30  25  15  E.  stands  upon  the  Neva,  the  outlet  of  the 
Ladoga,  close  to  the  guif  of  Finland.  The  population  in  1808,, 
250,000. t  The  houses  are  generally  of  wood.  Those  of  brick 
are  white-washed.  Cronstadt  is  the  port  of  Petersburg,  as  the 
Neva  is  not  navigable  for  large  vessels.  Peter  the  Great  began 
the  building  of  Petersburg  in  1703.  The  exports,  in  1797,  a- 
mounted  to  32,450,911  roubles;  and  the  imports  to  19,366,059. 
1053  ships  arrived  in  1798. 

Riga  stands  on  the  Dwina,  in  lat.  56  56  32  N.  Ion.  24  8  E.  and 
is,  except  Petersburg,  the  most  commercial  town  in  the  empire. 

*  We  describe  this  city  as  it  existed  before  its  destruction  JD  1813. 
^  JJvstapbievs. 


RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE.  429 

Population  30,000.  The  Dwina  is  navigable  foi'  large  vessels, 
and  is  here  2500  feet  wide.  The  exports  in  1805  v/ere  6,392,422 
roubles;  the  imports  1,422,717. 

Astrachan,  and  Rasan,  are  next  in  population,  each  containing 
30,000  inhabitants. 

Wilna,  on  the  Wilia,  a  branch  of  the  Niemen  ;  in  lat.  44  41  2 
N.  Ion.  25  22  E. ;  was  formerly  the  chief  town  in  the  grand 
dutcby  of  Lithuania.  It  contains  a  universiiy,  and  20,900  inliabit- 
ants.* 

Inland  JVavigation.  The  celebrated  canal  of  Vishnei  Voloshok 
forms  a  communication  between  Astrachan  and  Petersburg.  The 
navigation  is  performed  according  to  the  season  of  the  year,  in 
from  a  fortnight  to  a  month,  and  it  is  supposed  tliat  near  4000  ves- 
sels pass  annually-t 

The  canal  of  Ladoga  extends  from  the  river  Volkhof  to  the 
Neva,  a  space  of  85  miles,  and  communicates  with  the  formtr  canal. 
By  these  two  important  canals  constant  intercourse  is  maintained 
between  the  northern  and  southern  extrenuties  of  the  tniipue. 
Another  canal  leads  from  Moscow  to  the  river  Doii,  Icrmnig  a 
communication  with  the  Euxine  ;  and  the  canal  of  Cronsiadt  forms 
a  fourth. 

Manufactures  atid  Commerce.  Salt  in  vast  abundance  is  pro- 
cured from  salt-mines,  salt-lakes,  and  salt-springs.  'Ihe  vegeta- 
ble oils  are  manufactured  extensively.  Train-oil  is  procured  in 
great  quantities  on  the  Frozen  ocean,  and  on  the  Caspian.  Ising- 
glass,  a  preparation  from  the  air-bladder  of  the  sturgeon,  the  be- 
luga, and  the  sterlet,  is  made  on  all  the  larger  rivers,  and  especial- 
ly on  the  Caspian.  The  Wolga  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  manufac- 
ture oi  Xaviar,  consisting  of  the  salted  roes  of  large  fish.  Soap, 
raw-tallow,  and  candles,  are  exported  in  great  quantities.  B  andy 
is  distilled  from  corns  to  the  amount  of  25  millions  of  i>,allons. 
Potash  and  salt-petre  are  extensively  exported.  T.-ie  maniifaciure 
of  ntiedicines  is  extensive,  there  being  about  60  estal>lismc:nts  for 
this  purpose.  Carpet  manufactories  are  numerous,  and  those  of 
hats  much  more  so.  Russia  leather,  morocco,  sl.ayret;rj,  in  As- 
trachan, leather  vessels  and  all  the  common  kinus  of  leather,  are 
nianufactured  in  abundance.  Powder-mills  are  numerous.  Iron 
founderies  and  iron  works  are  found  evei-y  where,  and  the  articles 
manufactured  are  hammers,  cannon,  anchcHs,  nuils,  wire,  needles, 
coarse  cutlery,  lire-asms,  and  domestic  utensils.  Copper  and 
brass  works,  and  brass  cannon  founderies  are  establishtu  in  vari- 
ous places.  Gold  and  silversmiths,  jewellers  and  ciockmakers  are 
numerous  in  the  large  towns. 

The  commerce  of  the  Baltic  is  more  considerable,  than  that  of 
all  the  rest  of  the  empire.  Petersl)urg  alone  exports  to  tlie  a- 
mount  of  23,757,954  roubles,  aiid  Riga  to  tlie  amount  of  8,985^329. 

The  commerce  of  the  Euxine  is  now  fast  increasing.  The  ex-* 
ports  from  all  the  ports  in  1793,  amounted  to  1,198,695  roubles, 
and  the  imports  to  about  1,500,000.     The  whole  exports  on  t^e 

*  Hassd.  t  PhUlips,  C2,  29. 


4oO  RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE. 

White,  Baltic  and  Euxine  seas  amounted  in  1793,  to  37,328,1'9S 
roubles. 

The  annual  products  of  the  national  industry  were  estimated  by 
Tooke,  in  1788,  at  300,000,000  roubles. 

The  quantity  of  money  in  circulation  at  that  time,  was  estimated 
^t  230,000,000  roubles. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  The  climate  of  Russia  in  Europe,  pre- 
sents almost  every  variety  from  that  of  Lapland,  to  that  of  Italy. 

I-'ace  of  the  Country.  In  so  wide  an  empire  the  face  of  the 
country  must  also  be  extremely  various  ;  but  the  chief  feature  of 
European  Russia  consists  in  plains  of  a  prodigious  extent,  rivalling 
in  that  respect  the  vast  deserts  of  Asia  and  Africa.  In  the  south 
are  some  extensive  stepjiesyoi-  dry  and  elevated  plains,  such  as 
that  above  the  sea  of  Azof,  in  length  about  400  English  miles. 

The  numerous  and  majestic  rivers  also  constitute  a  distinguish- 
ing feature  of  this  empire. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  is  also  extremely  diverse,  from 
the  chilling  marshes  which  border  the  White  and  Frozen  seas, 
to  the  rich  and  fertile  plains  on  the  Volga.  The  most  fertile  is 
that  between  the  Don  and  the  Volga.  Pasturage  is  so  abundant 
that  the  meadows  are  little  regarded,  and  the  artificial  production 
of  grasses  is  scarcely  known.  Some  of  the  meadows  are  watered, 
and  produce  large  crops  of  hay,  the  dry  pastures  yield  a  short,  but 
nutricious  produce,  and  in  a  few  of  the  steppes  the  grass  will  at- 
tain the  height  of  a  man,  and  is  seldom  mown. 

Agriculture  is  hardly  known  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  govern- 
ments of  Olonetz,  and  Archangel;  but  in  the  central  parts  of  the 
empire  has  been  pursued  from  time  immemorial.  In  the  north 
rye  is  most  generally  cultivated  ;  but  in  the  middle  and  the  south- 
ern regions,  wheat ;  barley  is  a  general  produce,  a  swell  as  oats  and 
millet.  Rice  succeeds  well  in  the  vicinity  of  Kislear.  Hemp  and 
'flax  form  great  objects  of  agriculture,  also  tobacco.  Bees  are  not 
known  in  Siberia,  but  form  an  object  of  great  attention  in  the 
Uralian  forests. 

Kiv^s.     The  Wolga  has  already  been  described. 

The  Nieper  or  Dnieper,  the  largest  river  that  runs  wholly  in 
European  Russia,  has  a  course  of  about  1200  miles,  and  is  the  scene 
of  an  extensive  commerce. 

The  Don,  which  enters  the  Sea  of  Azof,  has  a  very  gentle  cur- 
rent ;  a  water  water  whitish  and  turbid,  but  not  unwholesome  ;  a  bed 
Ibrmed  of  sand,  marl,  and  lime  ;  and  here  and  there  broad  sand- 
tjanks  and  islands. 

The  Bog  empties  at  Oczakow,  and  its  length  is  about  400  miles. 

The  Niester  pursues  a  S.  E.  course,  of  about  600  miles,  and 
falls  into  the  Euxine  at  Akerman. 

The  Dvvina,  or  Duna,  runs  S.  W.  and  N.  W.  about  500  miles 
to  the  Gulf  of  Riga.     It  is  evefy  where  navigable. 

The  Neva  eu^plies  into  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  Finland.  Its 
length  ia  about  450  miles.  The  commerce  on  tliis  river  is  of  im- 
.menie  value  to  Petersburg. 


POLAND.  43  i 

Lakes.  These  are  Ladoga,  Onega,  and  Enara  which  have  al- 
ready been  described. 

Mountains.  The  chain  of  Olonetz  runs  in  a  direction  almost 
due  N.  for  the  space  of  15°,  or  about  900  German  miles.  The 
Uralian  chain  has  already  been  described. 

Mineralogy.  Peter  the  Great  was  the  founder  of  the  Russian 
mineralocjy,  by  the  institution  of  the  College  of  Mines  in  1719. 
The  control  of  this  college  extends  over  the  empire.  The  gold 
mine  of  Beresof,  near  Ekatcrinenburg,  on  the  Ural,  employs  2000 
workmen  ;  and  at  present,  yields  annually  from  7  to  8  nood  of  pure 
gold,  valued  at  from  70  to  80,000  roubles.  The  wiiole  produce 
from  1754  to  1788,  was  120  pood,  valued  at  1,200,000  roubles. 

The  Silver  mine  of  the  Schlangenburg  is  one  of  the  richest  ever 
known.  The  produce  of  these  mines  from  1745  to  1787  was 
valued  at  30,000,000  roubles.  The  whole  expense  only  7,000,000- 
roubles. 

The  silver  and  lead  mines  of  Nerlschinsk  in  Dauria  near  the 
Amour,  from  1704  to  1787  produced  silver  and  gold,  both, 
valued  at  10,000,000  roubles.  The  co/ifier  mines  in  the  Ura- 
lian chain,  had,  in  1779,  60  founderies,  containing  229  furnaces,, 
and  yielded,  in  1782,  190,752  pood  of  copper.  A  copper  mine  in 
the  Altai  yielded  in  1782,  18,793  pood.  The  value  of  both  was 
about  2,000,000  roubles.  The  iron  mines  in  the  Ural  chain  yield- 
ed, in  178'^.,  3,940,000  pood  of  iron  ;  wiiich,  added  to  the  product 
of  the  mines  of  Siberia  and  Olonetz,  made  a  total  of  about  4,500,000 
roubles.  In  1793  the  manufactured  and  unmanufactured  iron  ex- 
ported amounted  to  3,033,249  pood,  valued  at  5,204,125  roubles. 

Lead  is  found  in  all  the  mines,  particularly  in  those  of  Nert- 
achinsk,  and  the  Altai.  The  product  of  the  former  is  about  30,000 
pood.  .Arsenic  is  found  in  all  the  mineral  mountains.  ./Ijiiimony 
is  abundant  in  the  Nertschinsk  mines,  and  zinc  ore  in  those  of  the 
Altaian.  Quicksilver  has  been  found  in  Nertschinsk  and  near 
Ochotsk. 

RUSSIAN  ISLES. 

Nova  Zembla,  whose  northern  point  is  in  lat.  77  N.  is  separat- 
ed from  the  northern  shoi'e  of  Europe,.by  the  sliaights  of  Weygat,. 
It  is  said  to  consist  of  5  islands.  The  number  of  square  miles,  a& 
given  by  Hassel,  is  125,264.  The  island  nearest  the  shore  is.  call- 
ed Weygatz,  on  the  maps.     Nova  Zembla  is  uniniiabitcd. 

Kalgueva,  or  Colguef,  is  a  much  smaller  island,  lying  at  no 
great  distance  east  of  the  mouth  of  the  White  sea. 


POLAND. 

BEFORE  its  dismemberment,  Poland  was  in  size  the  second 
country  in  Europe  ,-^its  length  being  about  700  miles  and  its  breadth 
680.    It  lay  between   15°  and  34°  E.  and  between  46°  SO' and 


432  PRUSSIA. 

57°  35'  K.  The  Dwina  and  tlie  Nieper  separated  it  from  Russia, 
the  Niester  from  Turkey,  and  the  Carpathian  mountains  from 
Hunp;ary. 

Lithuania,  the  northeastern  part  of  Poland,  was  formerly  an  inde- 
pendent state  with  the  tiile  of  a  Grand  Dutchy.  In  1569,  it  was 
made  an  integ^ra.1  part  of  Poland,  and  the  king  of  Poland  was  con- 
stituted ex-officio  the  i^rand  duke  of  Lithuania. 

Ahout  1329  Gedimin,  i^rand  duke  of  Lithuania,  conquered  from 
Rubsb,  Smolensk,  Polotsk,  Tver,  Witepsk,  and  Kiow,  with  the 
Slobodian  Ukraine  east  of  the  Nieper.  Several  of  these  were  re- 
conquered in  1477.  About  1600  Russia  lost  to  Poland  Smolensk, 
Mohiiew  and  Tschernigow.  Kiow  and  the  Ukraine  were  I'eclaim- 
ed  by  Russia  in  1655  ;  at  the  first  disjmemberment  in  1773,  Smo- 
lensk, Witepsk,  Mohiiew  and  Polish  Livonia.  In  1793  the  second 
divi-iion  of  this  country  took  place  between  Russia,  Prussia,  and 
Austria  ;  and  in  1795  the  kins^dom  was  annihilated. 

By  the  fi^st  partition  in  1773,  Russia  gained  about  1,500,000  in- 
habitants, Austria  2,500,000,  and  Prussia  860,000.  By  the  final 
partition,  Russia  plained  4,592,544,  Aijstria  2,075,686,  and  Prus- 
sia 1,037,742.  The  whole  gain  of  Russia  was  therefore  about 
6,100,000  ;  that  of  Austria  4,600,000;  and  that  of  Prussia  1,900,000; 
making  a  total  of  about  12,500,000  inhabitants.  The  territory  ac- 
quired by  Russia  was  far  the  most  extensive  ;  that  of  Prussia  the 
most  commercial. 

The  Poles  were  divided  into  four  classes,  nobles,  clergy,  citi- 
zens, and  peasants.  All  who  possessed  freehold  estates,  and  all 
who  were  descended  from  such  were  nobles.  The  clergy  were 
numerous  and  amenable  to  the  civil  power.  The  burghers  were 
the  inhabitants  of  towns ;  they  had  no  right  to  vote  for  the  nuntios. 
The  peasants  were  slaves,  transferable  like  cattle  from  one  master 
to  another. 

The  Poles  are  said  to  be  the  handsomest  nation  in  Europe, 
Their  law  of  divorce  and  various  other  causes  had  however  before 
the  final  dismemberment  greatly  corrupted  their  morals. 


PRUSSIA. 

THIS  kinpdoni,  whi?4i  only  commenced  with  the  eighteenth 
century,  by  5;)adual  accessions  became  so  extensive,  as  deserved- 
ly to  rank  till  lately  among  the  first  powers  of  Europe.  Tl>e  do- 
minions of  Prussia  were  srnall  and  scattered,  till  the  acquisition  of 
Silesia,  and  afterwards  of  a  third  part  of  Poland,  gave  a  wide  basis 
to  the  monarchy.  But  in  1807  it  was  reduced  to  the  level  of  a 
petty  German  jjrincipality. 

Extent.  The  teriitories  of  Prussia,  before  the  acquisitions  in 
Poland,  were  estimated  at  56,414  square  miles,  with  a  population 
of  5,621,400. 

Prussia  now  reaches  from  the  Elbe,  near  Magdeburg,  to  the 
Niemen.     Its  seacoast  on  the  Baltic  is  entire  except  the  district  of 


PRUSSIA.  iH 

t)aniiic.  The  acquisitions  from  Poland  are  all  lost.  Its  present 
breadth  from  the  Baltic  to  the  boundaries  ot"  Russian  and  Saxon 
Poland  is  from  90  to  100  miles.  lis  possessions  from  the  southern 
limit  of  Silesia  to  the  mouth  of  the  Oder  are  still  uninterrupted  ; 
as  are  those  from  the  Elbe  across  the  Vistula  to  Polangen.  On 
the  Vistula  it  reaches  S.  to  Sch-.vetz  and  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Bro.  But  Culm  ancj  Thorn  are  in  Saxony.  The  present  extent 
in  square  miles  is  62,612.     The  losses  amounted  to  58,705. 

Di-uisions.     These  with  the  population  are  stated  by  Hassel  in 
1809  as  follows  : 

Provincii.  Sqimre  Miles..  Poi)xdation  (itj  cemus,  Estimntcd  dl>, 

i-i  1808.  ~ 

1.  Prussia  Pkoper. 

1  East  Prussia  8,964  555,14; 

2  Lithuania  6,466  397,889^.1802 

3  West  Prussia  9,074  52-1,; 


:} 


24,504  1,477,605  1,478,000 

2.  DuTCHY  OF  Silesia. 

1  Lower  Silesia  9,008 

2  Upper  Silesia  5,458  601,128^1802 

3  Glatz  636 


OlLhiSlA. 

1,202,061  1 
601,128  y 
101,919  J 


15,102  2,021,059  in  1805      52,050,000 

5.    DuTCHY    OF  POMERANIA. 

1  Farther  Pomerania            1,783  ^  iftn=?  'joj. -il  '      ta';  nnn 

2  Hither  Pomerania             7,907  5  ^^°^'  ^^"^'"^^         ^^^'°°^ 

9,690 
4,  March  of  Bhadsnburg. 

1  Middlemark  with  Bees-  ?  ^  , ,  „  ,  ,  ^^,"1 
1               1  c.     1                     ?•  5,512  5   4.927 

ko^y  and  Storkow            3    '  ^     .     <   !   .^^rf 

2  Pregnitz                                 1,321  82,540  ^^^3 

3  Uckermark                          1,255  88,160j 

1  Kurmark                               8,083  685,627                        686,000 

2  Newmark                              4,159  284,310(1803)          285,000 

3  East  Magdeburg                 1,079  ''            58,000 

13,316  1,029,000 


Totalj     62,612  5,030,000 

Religion.^  The  religir.n  of  Prussia  is  the  protestant,  under  its 
two  chief  divisions  of  Lutheran  and  Calvinistic.  The  universal 
toleration  wisely  embraced  by  the  Prussian  monarchs,  has  had  its 
usual  effect  of  abating  theological  enmity,  and  the  different  sects 
seem  to  live  in  perfect  concord. 

Government,  <jfc.  Prussia  is  an  absolute  government ;  but  the 
spirit  and  good  sense  of  the  nation  unite  with  the  wisdom  and  mild- 
ness of  successive  monarchs,  ("who  have  uniformly  wished  to  in- 
cite foreign  settlers  by  vicAvs  of  ease  and  freedom,  instead  of  es- 
55 


434'  PRUSSIA; 

pellinjj  their  own  people  by  rigor,)  to  render  the  sovereignty  a^- 
conciliatory,  and  perhaps  more  beneficent,  than   if  joined  with  a 
venal  senate.     The  late  great  monarch  reformed  many  abuses  in 
the  laws  ;  but  it  cannot  be  disguised  that  the  tenor  of  his  govern- 
ment was  too  military,  a  fault  inherent  in  the  Prussian  system. 

Army.  The  army  of  Prussia,  in  1806,  amounted  to  239,667 
men. 

The  unfortunate  monarch  m  1 808  had  only  from  60,000  to 
80,000  men,  and  of  these  only  20,000  were  equipped  and  ready  for 
service. 

Eevenues.  In  1808,  the  revenues  amounted  to  25,300,000 
guilders,  or  about  13,150,000  dollars.  Before  the  peace  of  Tilsit 
the  revenue  was  annually  from  56  to  58,000,000  guilders.  The 
debt  of  Prussia  is  stated  by  Hassel  at  50,000,000  guilders. 

Po/iulation.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  Prussia,in  1808  after 
the  peace  of  Tilsit,  was,  according  to  Hassel's  tables,  5,030,000. 
The  number  of  houses  was  516,600;  of  cities  451;  of  market 
towns  81  ;   of  villages  20,687. 

Prussia  lost  to  the  kingdom  of  Westphalia  602,1 19  inhabitants  j 
to  the  grand  dutchy  cf  Berg  266,436;  to  Bavaria  316,141  ;  to 
France  about  478,000  ;  to  the  New  Hanse  Towns  about  84,000; 
to  the  kingdom  of  Saxony  about  2,777,000  ;  and  to  Russia  about 
183,300.  Sotzman,  a  German  v/riter,  estimates  the  total  loss  at 
4,805,000,  which  differs  but  little  from  the  preceding  statemenu 
and  estimates  of  Massel. 

Manner.^  and  Customs.  Travellers  have  remarked  that  in  com- 
parison with  the  Saxons,  who  are  a  lively  and  contented  people, 
the  Prussians  appear  dull  and  gloomy  ;  a  character  which  they 
impute  partly  to  the  military  government,  and  partly  to  the  gener- 
al anxiety  which  must  have  been  excited  by  the  repeated  dangers 
to  which  their  country  was  exposed,  v/hcn  contending  with  the 
powers  of  Russia  and  Austria. 

JLangudge.-    The  ruling  language  of  Prussia  is  the  German. 

Literature.  The  literature  of  Prussia  is  of  recent  origin.  Dant= 
zic  was  the  native  country  of  Cluverius,  an  eminent  geographer  ; 
and  Copernicus,  a  great  name  in  astronomy,  was  born  at  Thorn. 
Frederic  tlie  G "cat  v/roie  in  French,  and  is  classed  among  the 
most  distinguished  authors  of  his  kingdom,  as  is  coimt  Heitsberg, 
his  minister.  Among  the  other  names,  either  natives  or  who  flour- 
ished in  Prussia,  may  be  mentioned  Ramler  the  poet,  Nicolai  an 
original  writer  of  romances,  &c.  Busching  tiie  geographer,  Spald- 
ing, and  Mendelsoim. 

Education.  Education  in  this  country  is  much  neglected.  The 
immbcr  of  recruits  wanted  for  the  army,,  and  the  consequent  un- 
ceitainty  of  destination  for  life,  greatly  impede  the  national  in- 
struction. 

Univer.iitifs.  There  are  two  universities,  that  of  Frankfort  on 
the  Oder,  and  that  of  Konigsberg,  founded  in  1544. 

Ciiiea  and  Towns.  Berlin,  the  largest  of  all  tiie  Prussian  cities, 
and  the  second  in  Germany,  is  built  on  the  banks  of  the  vSpree,  in 
lat.  52«  3l'44"N.  and  Ion.  13°  2S' E.     It  is  chiefly  built  on  a 


m 


PRUSSIA.  425 

I  barren  sandy  plain,  niiich  exposed  to  dust.  A  part  ol'  it  however 
•stands  upon  two  islands  in  the  river.  It  is  4^  miles  long  and  J 
'  br-oad,  containing,  in  1804,  156,664  inhabitants,  and  7241  houses. 
The  houses  are  uncommonly  beautil'ul  from  without,  but  the  fin- 
:ishing  %vithin  does  not  correspond  vith  the  elegance  of  the  exte- 
rior. The  streets  are  rcgvilar  and  of  convenient  breadth.  There 
are  14  Lutheran  churches,  10  Calvinistic,  and  1  Catholic,  all 
strangely  decorated  ivith  Mercuries,  Apollos,  Minervas,  and  Cu- 
pids. The  town  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  palisadocs.  The 
average  of  temperature  for  13  years,  from  1769  to  1782,  was  49 
degrees.  There  is  a  free  communication  by  canals,  with  the  Oder 
and  the  Elbe. 

Konigsberg  is  well  fortified.     It  stands  on  the  Pregel  near  its 
^  entrance  into  the  Frisch-Haff,  and  maintains  a  considerable  com- 
merce with  the  Baltic.     It  contained   4508   houses  in    1802,  and 
56,410  inhabitants.     It  is  the  capital  of  Prussia  Proper. 

Ereslau,  the  capital  of  Silesia,  has  long  been  celebrated,  as  one 
•of  the  most  beautiful  cities  of  Germany.  It  stands  upon  the  S. 
bank  of  the  Oder,  in  lat.  51  3  N.  Ion.  17  8  45  E.  and  contained  in 
1805,  62,923  inhabitants  and  3338  houses.  The  town  is  not  less 
than  8  miles  in  length.  There  are  9  Lutheran  churches,  1  Cal- 
vinistic, 1  Greek,  several  Catholic,  and  2  Jewish  synagogues. 

Elbing  is  in  West  Prussia,  on  an  arm  of  the  Vistula,  called  the 
river  Elbing,  a  short  distance  from  the  Frisch-Haff,  in  lat.  54  7  54 
N.  Ion.  10  27  27  E.  Rouses  in  1802,2159.  population  19,274. 
Its  comraeree  has  always  been  considerable.  In  1803,  it  owned 
7110  tons  of  shipping,  besides  50  coasters  and  25  lighters,  em- 
ployed to  take  cargoes  to  the  large  ships  at  Pillau.  Vessels  of 
100  tons'  come  up  to  the  town. 

Stettin  stands  upon  the  Oder,  in  lat.  53  25  36  N.  The  river 
here  divides  into  4  branches.  The  town  carries  on  an  extensive 
commerce,  and  contained  in  1802,  1594  houses,  and  18,463  inhab- 
itants. 

Potsdain.  a  recent  city,  is  built  on  an  island  in  the' Havel,  in  lat. 
52  24  43  N.  and  Ion.  13  10  31  E.  No  expense  has  been  spared 
in  its  decorations.  The  inhabitants,' in  1802,  amounte^^o  17,982  ; 
the  houses  to  1959.  It  was  till  lately  the  favorite  residence  of  the 
Prussian  monarchs.   . 

Bradenburg  is  alto  on  the  Havel,  31  miles  from  Berlin.  Inhab- 
itants in  1802,  10,329.     Houses  1485. 

Frankfort  on  the  Oder,  is  in  Middlemark,  48  miles  E.  of  Berlin. 
-It  contained  in  1802,  1314  houses,  and  10,291  irihabitants. 

3Ianufacture(i  and  Commerce.  If  we  except  the  linens  of  Si- 
lesia, the  manufactures  of  the  Prussian  doininions  are  of  small 
importance.  Yet  they  afford  for  home  consumption,  glass,  iron, 
brass,  paper,  and  woollen  cloth  ;  and  silk.  Even  the  exports  of 
Dantzic  consist  almost  entirely  of  timber,  corn,  tallow,  and  similar 
articles. 

If  we  except  the  ancient  staple  of  grain,  so  abundant  in  the  level 
plains  of  Poland,  the  commerce  of  Prussia  is  comparatively  oi  but 
.little  consequence.     Amber  is  by  nature  constituted  a  monopoly 


43^6  PRUSSIA. 

snf  the  country,  but  fashion  has  rendered  this  branch  of  commerce 
insignificant.  Yet  among  the  considerable  exports  may  be  named 
excellent  timber  of  all  kinds,  skins,  leather,  flax,  and  hemp,  mad- 
der, linseed,  pearlash,  and  every  species  of  grain ;  nor  must  the 
linens  of  Silesia  be  passed  in  silence,  many  of  which  are  sent  into 
Holland,  and  sold  under  the  name  of  Dutch  manufacture.  In  re- 
turn Prussia  receives  wine,  and  other  products  of  more  southern 
and  lavored  countries. 

Climuts  unci  Seasovs.  The  climate  of  the  Prussian  dominions 
is,  upon  the  ■whole,  cold  and  moist.  Prussia  proper  has  about  8 
months  of  winter,  the  autximns  being  often  deluged  v.  ith  rain.  The 
lower  parts  of  Silesia  are  regarded  as  the  most  healthy  and  fertile 
provinces  of  the  monarchy  ;  but  the  southern  and  western  parts  of 
that  dutchy,  bordering  on  elevated  mountains,  long  covered  with 
snow,  are  exposed  even  in  summer  to  severe  freezing  gales. 

J'^ace  of  the  Country.  Prussia  proper  displays  superior  fertility, 
a  character  which  may  also  be  exteiidcd  to  Prussian  Poland,  an 
immense  plain.  Silesia  displays  a  pleasing  diversity,  being  level 
and  open  towards  Poland,  but  separated  from  Hungary  on  the  S. 
by  the  Carpathian  mountains,  a  branch  of  which  proceeding  N.  W. 
divides  this  country  from  Moravia  and  Bohemia.  It  is  every 
•where  watered  by  the  Oder  and  its  tributary  streams  :  nor  is  there 
any  deficiency  of  rivers  in  the  other  pans  of  the  Prussian  sov-. 
ereignty. 

Sijil  and  Agricnli~dTe.  Agricultural  improvements  are  little 
known.  Brandenburg  produces  buck  wheat  and  turnips,  with 
scanty  crops  of  rye.  Prussia  proper,  and  the  Polish  provinces  dis- 
play every  kind  of  grain,  and  esculent  plant,  that  can  flourish 
under  such  a  latitude  ;  and  among  the  productions  of  Silesia 
must  be  classed  maize,  and  even  vines,  but  the  wine  is  of  inferior 
quality. 

JRvvers.  Among  the  chief  rivers  of  the  Prussian  dominions  may 
be  first  mentioned  the  Elbe,  which  rises  in  the  south  of  Bohemia^ 
and  pervades  the  dutchy  of  Magdeburg.  The  Spree,  which  passes 
by  Berlin,  fajls  into  the  Havel,  a  tributary  of  the  Elbe.  The  Oder 
may  be  regarded  as  a  liver  entirely  Prussian  ;  it  rises  in  the  moun- 
tains of  Moravia,  and,  after  watering  Silesia,  Brandenburg,  and  Pon. 
merania,  joins  the  Baltic,  afttr  a  course  of  about  350  miles.  Next 
appears  another  noble  stream,  the  Vistula,  which,  rising  in  the 
Carpathian  mountains,  passes  Warsav.-f  and  joins  the  sta  near 
Dantzic,  after  a  circuit  of  about  450  miles.  The  Pregel,  passing 
by  Konigsberg,  springs  from  some  lakes  and  marshes  in  Prussian 
Poland  ;  and  the  Mcmel,  a  superior  river,  now  form.s  in  part  the 
Prussian  boundary  on  the  east. 

Lckcfs.  The  lakes  in  the  Prussian  dominions  are  numerous^ 
especially  in  the  eastern  part,  where  among  others  may  be  men° 
lioned  the  Spelding  See,  which,  with  its  creeks,  extends  more 
ihan  twenty  miles  in  every  direction. 

Mountains.  The  only  mountams  in  the  Pru.^sian  dominions  are 
those  of  Silesia.     The  mountains  in  jthe  S.  and  W.  of  this  provincs 


HOLLAND.  437 

may  be  regarded  as  a  northern  branch  of  the  Carpathian  chain, 
•which  itself  forms  the  most  southern  boundary. 

Mmcralogy.  The  most  distinguished  and  peculiar  mineral  pro- 
duction of  Prussia  is  amber,  which  is  chiefly  found  on  the  Sam- 
land  shore  of  the  Baltic,  near  Pilau,  on  a  neck  of  land  formed  by 
the  Frisch-Haff",  which  seems  to  have  been  the  chief  seat  of  this 
mineral  from  the  earliest  ages.  It  is  found  at  the  depth  of  100 
feet,  reposing  on  wood  coal,  in  lumps  ot"  various  sizes,  some  five 
pounds  in  weight,  and  is  often  washed  on  shore  by  tempests.  It 
adds  j^5000  yearly  to  the  royal  revenue. 


LOW  COUNTRIES. 

THE  Low  Countries  include  the  seven  United  Provinces,  or 
Holland,  and  the  Austrian  and  French  Netherlands.  Though 
they  are  now  (Nov.  1815)  an  integral  part  of  the  French  empire, 
we  give  them  a  separate  description,  in  hope  that  the  great 
changes,  now  in  operation  in  Europe,  will  release  them  from  ilieir 
present  thraldom  ;  and  soon  give  them  a  rank  among  independent 
jiations. 


HOLLAND, 

Extent.  THE  length  of  Holland  is  about  150  miles  ;  the 
breadth  100.     The  square  miles,  according  to  Hassel,  12,662. 

Divisions.  There  were  originally  seven  provinces  in  Holland. 
In  1805  they  were  erected  into  a  kingdom.  The  following  is  Hasn 
sel's  table  of  the  departments,  with  their  extent  and  population  in 
1809.  * 

1.  Amstelland,  960  458,000 

2.  Maasland,  1296  34 1,9 7 8 

3.  Utrecht,  51. 3  108,820 

4.  Zealand,  414  74,050 

5.  Brabant,  1689  207,708 

6.  Guelders,  2091  323,282 

7.  Overyssel,  1337  135,060 

8.  Drente,  815  39,672 

9.  Friesland,  1192  96,846 

10.  Groningen,  1107  103,000 

11.  E.  Friesland,  1247  133,000 


12,662  2,001,416 

Coloines.  The  foreign  possessions  of  Holland  were  extensive 
^nd  valuable  before  the  commencement  of  the  Frerich  Revolu- 
tion. Since  that  event  they  have  all  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the. 
English. 


438  HOLLAND, 

Historical  Efiochs.  Among  the  historical  epochs  may  be  mxtctr 
-tiered, 

1.  Holland  and  some  inferior  provinces  revolt  from  the  tyranny 
of  Philip  IL  in  1556;  and  in  1579  formed  the  famous  union  of 
Utrecht. 

2.  By  the  end  of  that  century  the  Dutch  had  established  colo- 
nies at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  in  the  East  Indies  ;  and  settle- 
ments v/ere  afterwards  gained  in  South  America.  During  the 
17th  century  they  rivalled  the  English  in  the  empire  of  the  sea  ; 
and  greatly  exceeded  them  in  commercial  advantages.  Their 
power  began  somewhat  to  decline  after  the  obstinate  naval  con- 
flicts in  the  time  of  Charles  l\.  In  1672  Louis  XIV.  invades  Hol- 
land ;  and  Amsterdam  is  only  saved  by  opening  the  sluices. 

3.  The  stadtholderate  declared  hereditary,  1747.  The  war  ia 
1756  opening  great  connexions  between   Holland  and  France,  a 

J'rench  party  began  to  form  in  the  country,  which  opposed  the 
stadtholder,  who  was  supported  by  the  English.  In  1780  a  war 
arose  between  Great  Britain  and  Holland,  which  closed  in  1784, 
after  exposing  to  Europe  the  decline  and  weakness  of  the  United 
Provinces,  still  farther  displayed  by  the  entrance  of  the  duke  of 
Biunswic  in  1788,  who  may  be  said  to  have  subdued  them  with- 
out a  blow. 

4.  The  Dutch  having  joined  the  coalition  against  the  French, 
4heir  country  fell  a  prey  to  the  invaders,  during  the  hard  frost  of 
the  winter  1794-5  ;  and  the  stadtholder  took  refuge  in  England  in 
1795. 

5.  Holland  was  created  into  a  kingdom  and  given  to  Louis  Bon- 
aparte in  1 809. 

6.  The  king  was  deprived  of  his  crown  on  account  of  his  clem- 
ency, and  Holland  was  annexed  to  the  French  empire  in  1810. 

JReligion.  Calvinism  was  the  established  religion  of  Holland. 
The  states  in  1583  proposed  that  no  other  form  should  be  tolerat- 
ed ;  but  this  was  wisel^  rejected.  None  but  Calvinists  however 
could  hold  any  employment  of  trust  or  profit. 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  state  of  the  established  church 
;"n  1759,  1797  and  1803. 


Classes. 

Ministers. 

A  .. 

f      ~ 

1 

1759. 

1797. 

1803. 

i. 

Guelderland 

9 

284 

283 

285 

2. 

South  Holland 

11 

331 

332 

331 

3. 

North  Holland 

6 

222 

218 

220 

4. 

Zealand 

4 

173 

159 

163 

5. 

Utrecht 

3 

81 

82 

79 

6. 

Friesland 

6 

208 

209 

207 

7. 

Overyssel 

4 

84 

84 

84 

8. 

Drente 

3 

40 

42 

40 

o. 

Groningen 

7 

161 

161 

161 

1584  1570  1570 


HOLLAND.  435^ 

Besides  these  there  were,  in  1797,  2  nunisters  in  the  island  oF 
Ameland,  and  52  in  the  colonies  ;  viz.  9  in  the  W.  Indies  and  43 
at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  in  the  East  Indies. 

The  Walloon  Calvinist  churches  are  50  in  number,  and  are  su- 
perintended by  a  general  synod,  which  is  the  oldest  body  of  the 
i-eformed  church  in  the  Low  Countries.  There  were,  in  1803,7 
English  presbyterian  congregations,  I  Scotch,  and  2  English  Epis- 
copalian. 

The  number  of  catholic  churches  then  in  the  seven  provinces 
was  350,  of  priests  400.  Of  these  5  1  churches  and  74  priests  were 
of  the  Jansenist  party.  The  rest  were  Jesuits.  Tiiere  were  of 
the  Lutherans  41  congregations,  and  70  ministers  ;  of  tiie  Remon- 
strants 34  congregations,  and  43  ministers  ;  of  the  Anabap- 
tists, in  1791,  159  congregations,  and  251  ministers;  and  of  the 
Rhinsburgers  20  congregations.  There  are  also  a  very  few 
Quakers,  one  congregation  of  Arminians,  and  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  Jews  in  the  large  cities. 

Government.  Each  of  the  seven  provinces  was  a  republic  re- 
taining its  own  states,  which  consisted  of  nobles  and  burgesses  j,^ 
governed  by  its  own  laws  ;  and  exercising  most  of  the  rights  of  a 
sovereign  state.  The  general  legislature  was  called  the  States 
General.)  composed  of  deputies  from  each  province  as  many  as  it 
pleased. 

Pofiulation.     See  table. 

Army.  The  army  in  1801  amounted  to  22,384  men.  No\7* 
the  young  men  are  drafted  for  the  French  conscription. 

A''avy.  The  navy  in  1806  consisted  of  16  ships  of  the  line,  10 
frigates  and  21  smaller  vessels,  manned  by  6000  seamen. 

Revenue.  The  revenue  in  1808  amounted  to  50,000,000  Dutch 
guilders.  The  expenditure  was  74,1 19,354  ;  and  the  debt  in  1807, 
1,172,327,252  guilders. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  towns,  villages,  and  hous&s  of  the 
Dutch  are  distinguished  for  their  neatness  and  cleanliness. 
The  villas  of  the  opulent  are  thickly  planted  among  the  numer- 
ous canals.  Their  dress  is  plain  and  wisely  accommodated  to  th® 
cold  damp  nature  of  tl)eir  climate.  Their  chief  food  is  herrings, 
in  the  curing  of  which  they  are  unrivalled.  Their  butter  and 
cheese  also  are  excellent.  The  Dutch  have  always  been  noted  fof 
their  cool  phlegmatic  temperament.  Their  coui'age  is  obstinacy  ; 
their  industry  heavy  perseverance.  All  classes  are  distinguished 
for  their  frugality. 

Universities.  The  universites  are  five  ;  Leyden,  Utrecht,  Har-- 
derwyck,  Franecker,  and  Groningen  ;  with  two  inferior  colleges 
at  Amsterdam  and  Deventer.  The  Dissenters  in  England  were 
accustomed  to  send  their  children  to  these  tmiversities  for  educa- 
tion.    There  is  an  academy  of  sciences  at  liaerlem. 

Cities  and  Towns.  Amsterdam:,  in  North  Holland,  the  capital' 
of  the  United  Provinces,  is  situated  on  the  river  Amstel  and  an 
arm  of  the  Zuyder  Sea  called  the  Ye  or  Wye,  about  2  leap-ues 
from  the  mouth  of  the  latter.  It  is  situated  on  a  low  marshy  "soil, 
and  built  on  piles  of  wood.     The  haven  is  a  mile  and  a  half  in 


440  HOLLAND. 

length  and  about  1000  paces  in  breadth.  It  is  not  distinguished 
by  natural  advantages  ;  but  has  been  improved  and  secured  by- 
art.  In  1796  the  number  of  houses  was  27,351,  and  of  inhabitants 
217,024.  The  houses  are  of  brick  or  stone,  and  are  universally- 
neat  and  cleanly.  The  streets  are  generally  narrow,  but  well 
paved.  There  are  14  Calvinislic  churches,  3  English,  1  or  more 
Lutheran,  Arminian  and  Anabaptist,  several  Catholic  chapels,  and 
2  synagogues  ;  one  the  largest  in  Europe.  Amsterdam  before 
the  late  troubles  was  surpassed  in  its  commerce  by  no  city  in  Eu- 
rope, but  London. 

The  Hague,  about  half  a  league  from  the  German  sea,  was  the 
seat  of  the  general  government  as  well  as  that  of  the  province  of 
Holland.  The  number  of  houses,  in  1796,  was  6164  ;  and  of  in- 
habitants 33,433  The  houses  are  uncommonly  good  ;  the  streets 
long,  broad  and  cleanly  ;  many  of  them  being  adorned  with  rows 
of  trees. 

Rotterdam,  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rotter^  with  the  Meuse. 
The  haven  is  deep,  easily  accessible  to  the  largest  ships,  and  free 
from  ice  in  the  spring  much  sooner  than  the  Texel.  The  city,  in 
1796,  contained  6621  houses  and  33,800  inhabitants.  In  the  mar- 
ket place  stands  the  statue  of  Erasmus. 

Utrecht  stands  on  a  northern  branch  of  the  Rhine,  which,  be- 
fore the  great  change  in  the  bed  of  that  river  was  a  principal  chan- 
nel. The  houses  are  brick,  many  of  them  stately.  It  contained 
in  1796,  32,294  inhabitants. 

Leyden  is  situated  on  the  old  northern  branch  of  the  Rhine,  a 
few  miles  above  the  spot  where  it  loses  itself  in  the  sands.  The 
river  divides  the  city  into  about  fifty  islands,  communicating  with 
each  other  by  145  brids^es,  upwards  of  100  of  which  are  ot  free- 
stone. The  university  has  been  celebrated  for  many  years,  but  is 
now  on  the  decline.  Leyden  contained  in  1796,  3017  houses,  and 
30,955  inhabitaiits. 

Groningen,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  is 
in  the  northern  part  of  Holland,  about  10  miles  from  the  sea.  It 
contained  in  1T96,  23,770  inhabitants. 

Haerlem  lies  on  the  Sparen,  about  3  miles  from  the  sea  or 
lake  of  Haerlem.  It  contains  4  Dutch  Calvinist  churches,  1 
French  Calvinist,  1  Lutheran,  I  Arminian,  4  Anabaptists,  and 
several  private  Catholic  chapels.  Here  are  extensive  manufac- 
to!  ics  of  linen,  ribbands  and  tape.  The  number  of  houses  in  1 796, 
was  7,963,  and  of  inhabitants  21,360. 

Dort  lies  on  a  small  island  in  the  Meuse.  Its  harbor  is  very 
"commodious  for  trade.  It  contained  in  1796  about  4000  houses 
and  18,014  inhabitants. 

MiDntEBTciRG,  the  chief  tov/n  in  Zealand  and  the  capital  of  the 
island  of  Walcheren,  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  in  1132.  The 
town  house  is  a  large  magnificent  building.  The  fortifications 
are  strong  and  regular.  The  situation  is  very  unhealthy.  In 
1796  it  contained  17,687  inhabitants.  In  1809  the  town  and  the 
island  wei*e  taken  by  the  British,  but  were  soon  after  abandoned. 

Inland  JSfavigaihn.    The  canals  of  Holland  are  very  numerous 


UOLLANb.  m 

and  serve  the  purpose  of  public  roads.  By  tliose  of  Holland  and 
the  Netherlands  a  prodigious  inland  trade  is  carried  on  between 
those  countries  and  France  and  Germany.  When  frozen,  the  in- 
habitants travel  on  them  with  skaits  ;  while  heavy  burdens  are 
conveyed  in  sleighs.  The  profits  which  have  accrued  from  them 
have  been  incalculable.  They  are  generally  60  feet  wide  and  6 
deep,  and  are  kept  well  cleansed  ;  the  mud  being  very  valuable 
as  manure.     They  are  generally  level  and  need  no  locks. 

Manufactn,res  and  Commerce.  The  chief  manufactures  of  Hol- 
land are  linens,  pottery,  and  painted  tiles,  especially  at  Delft  ; 
leather,  wax,  snuflT,  sugar,  starch,  paper,  besides,  some  of  woo!len> 
cotton,  and  silk.*  But  tlie  most  piecious  branch  of  commerce 
consisted  in  spices  and  drugs,  brought  from  the  settlements  in  the 
East  Indies  ;  and  the  Dutch  East  India  company  was,  for  a  con- 
siderable time,  the  greatest  mercantile  firm  in  Europe.  The 
fishery  in  the  northern  seas,  and  even  on  their  own  and  the  En- 
glish coasts,  was  also  an  object  of  great  commercial  importance. 
Latterly  perhaps  the  chief  advantage  was  derived  from  Holland 
being  the  grand  deposite  of  commerce  between  Great  Britain  and 
the  continent,  particularly  Germany  and  France.  Tlie  inland 
trade  with  Germany,  by  the  canals  and  the  Rhine,  is  almost  the  on- 
ly branch  which  has  escaped  the  ravages  of  war.  Of  this  the 
most  remarkable  feature  consists  in  the  vast  floats  of  timber,  which 
arrive  at  Dort  from  Andernach,  and  other  places  on  the  RliinCj 
whose  copious  stream  received  the  trees  of  the  German  forests. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  The  air  of  Holland  is  always  moist  and 
cold.  Strangers  complain  of  it  as  unhealthy  ;  but  the  natives  en- 
joy more  than  commonly  firm  and  vigorous  constitutions.  The 
phlegm  of  the  Dutch  character  is  thought  to  be  in  a  great  measure 
attributable  to  their  climate. 

Face  qf  the  Country.  The  coast  is  every  where  flat  and  sandy  ; 
and  so  low,  that  the  inhabitants  have  been  obliged  to  build  dykes. 
or  mounds  along  a  great  part  of  it  to  prevent  inundations  from 
the  ocean.  They  are  usually  25  feet  in  height  and  25  ells  in  thick- 
ness. The  coast  of  the  small  province  of  Zealand  alone,  is  dyked 
to  the  extent  of  40  miles,  at  an  original  expense  of  y^340,000  ster- 
ling. Holland,  Friesiand,  Groningen,  and  East  Fricslaiid  are 
similarly  defended.  The  general  face  of  the  interior  is  that  of  a 
large  marsh  that  has  been  drained.  Much  of  the  surface  is  below 
the  level  of  the  sea. 

Soil  and  Jgricultiire.  The  agriculture  of  such  provinces  can- 
not be  expected  to  be  consideral)le,  tiie  land  being  mostly  under 
pasturage,  except  a  few  crops  of  madder,  and  tobacco,  which  are 
cultivated  with  great  predilection.!  The  pasturat;es  in  the  north 
of  Holland,  especially  those  of  Bernster,  and  in  Friesiand,  supply- 
such  quantities  of  excellent  buaer,  as  to  become  a  staple  article 
of  commerce. 

Bays.  The  Zuyder  Zee  is  a  great  bay  of  the  German  ocean 
setting  up  from  the  N.  into  the  United  Provinces.     It  is  of  a  wind- 

•*  Marshall.vol.i.  225— 255.  t  Marshall,  i.  264, 

55 


442  NETHERLANDS. 

ing  irregular  figure,  and  has  a  circuitous  length  of  about  1213  miliea?' 
It  abounds  in  shoals  and  flats.  The  northern  branch  of  the  Rhine; 
called  the  Issel,  falls  into  the  S.  E.  part  of  this  sea,  near  Campen. 

The  convmon  estuary  of  the  Scheldt,  the  Meuse,  and  the  two 
southern  branches  of  the  Rhine,  is  a  broad  bay,  setting  up  from  the 
W-  between  Holland  and  Dutch  Flanders. 

Rivers.  The  Rhine  borders  Switzerland  for  the  space  of  250 
miles.  From  Basil  it  runs  N.  E.  to  Spire,  and  thence  N.  W.  to 
the  ocean.  From  its  northern  bend  to  its  entrance  into  Holland 
it  is  the  present  boundary  between  Germany  and  France.  Its 
principal  tributaries  are  the  Aar  from  Switzerland,  the  Neckar, 
the  Mayn,  the  Lahn,  and  the  Lippe  from  Germany,  and  the  Moselle- 
from  France.  As  it  enters  Holland  it  divides  at  Schenkan  Schans. 
The  southern  branch,  the  Wahal,  pursues  a  southwesterly  course, 
mingles  with  the  Meuse  at  the  small  island  of  Voorn,  separates 
from  it,  and  joins  it  again  at  Warcum.  The  united  stream  flows 
into  the  ocean,  after  passing  the  islands  of  Holland  and  Zealand^ 
The  northern  branch,  retaining  the  name  of  the  Rhine,  runs  N. 
about  10  miles,  and  again  divides  near  Arnheim.  The  right 
branch,  called  the  Issel,  flows  N.  and  falls  into  the  Zuyder  Zee 
at  Campen.  The  left  branch,  still  called  the  Rhine,  runs  west- 
ward to  Wyck,  where  it  divides  a  third  time.  The  larger  branch, 
called  the  Lech,  runs  S.  of  W.  and  joins  the  Wahal  and  Meuse  at 
Crimpe.  The  other  called  the  Old  Rhine,  and  anciently  the  chief 
arm  of  the  river,  runs  N.  W.  by  Utrecht,  Woerden  and  Leyden, 
and  loses  itself  in  the  sand  a  few  miles  from  this  latter  city,  and  at 
a  small  distance  from  the  German  ocean.  The  whole  length  of 
the  Rhine  is  about  800  miles. 

The  Meuse  rises  in  France  near  the  sources  of  the  Seine,  the. 
Saone,  and  the  Moselle.  Its  course  is  principally  northerly,  in- ' 
France  and  the  Netherlands  ;   and  W.  in  Holland. 

The  mouths  of  the  Scheldt  are  in  Holla';d. 

The  Ems  also  is  now  in  part  a  Dutch  river. 


NETHERLANDS. 

Extent.  THE  length  of  the  Netherlands,  from  Dunkirk  to  the' 
frontiers  of  Treves,  is  about  200  miles,  and  the  breadth  about  120o 
They  contain  17,500  square  miles. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  Holland  ;  E.  by  Germany  ;  S.  and 
S.  W.  by  France  ;  W-  by  the  German  ocean. 

Divisions.  This  territory,  before  the  French  revolution,  com- 
prised 10  provinces  ;  and  belonged  to  Austria,  the  French,  and 
the  Dutch. 

The  Netherlands  now  constitute  numerous  departments  of  the 
French  empire. 

Religion.     The  established  religion  was  the  Catholic,  but  Prc-^ 
testants  were  unmolested.     There  was  one  archbishopric  at  Ma- 
lines,  and  9  or  10  bishoprics. 


NETHERLANDS.  U3 

■Fofiulation.     According  to  the  Imperial  Almanac  of  1  SOS,  the 
■-ijopulaiion  of  the  Netherlands  amounts  to  4,140,235. 

Muiiners  and  Customs.  The  Flenungs  on  the  frontiers  of 
Holland  dress  like  the  Dutch  boors,  and  are  scarcely  distinguish- 
able from  them  in  character  or  appearance.  The  inhabitants  of 
French  Flanders  on  the  contrary,  have  much  of  the  French  vivac- 
ity, and  dress  like  thtii-  southern  neiglibors. 

U7iivcrsities.  Thcbc  were  at  Louvani,  Tournay,  Douay,  and 
St.  Omer. 

yJrts.  The  Flemish  painters  and  sculptors  have  great  merit, 
and  form  a  school  by  themselves.  The  works  of  Rubens  and 
Vandyke  will  not  be  iorgotten.  The  Flemings  formerly  engross- 
ed tapestry  weaving  tu  themselves.  They  liave  invented  various 
valu.iblc  iiianufactures. 

Citits  and  Towns.  Brussels,  in  Austrian  Brabant,  stands  partly 
on  a  lull,  and  partly  in  a  valley,  on  the  banks  of  tl>e  Senne,  a  branch 
©t  the  Scheldt,  ano  is  said  to  be  seven  nules  in  circumterence.  Its 
camlet  and  tapestry  were  formerly  in  high  estimation,  and  its  lace 
and  its  carpets  are  known  all  over  the  world.  It  contained,  in 
1802,  66,2y7  hiliabitants.  Before  the  revolution,.  Brussels  was  the 
capital  ot  the  Austrian  Netlieriands. 

Aiiiwerp  is  built  m  a  large  plain,  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Scheldt,  lis  population,  in  18u3,  was  56,318  souls.  About  two 
centuries  and  a  half  ago  Antwerp  was  the  most  commercial  city 
in  the  world.  In  1543,  it  contamed  accordhig  to  Guicciardini, 
100,000  inhabitants.  When  the  Dutch  revolted  from  Spain,  they 
destroyed  the  commerce  of  this  city,  by  sinking  obstructions  in 
the  channel  of  the  river. 

Ghent,  in  Austrian  Flanders,  is  built  at  the  conflux  of  the  Scheldt, 
the  Lys,  and  the  Lieve  ;  and  was  in  the  time  of  Charles  V.  a  large, 
strong,  and  splendid  city.  It  has  cloth,  linen,  and  silk  manufac- 
tures, and  its  trade  is  greatly  facilitated  by  several  excellent  ca- 
nals.    It  contained,  in  1802,  55,161  inhabitants. 

Lisle,  m  French  Flanders,  stands  in  a  rich  marshy  plain  on 
the  Dtule,  and  was  fortified  by  Vauban.  Its  citadel  is  thought 
the  strongest  in  Europe,  except  that  of  Turin.  The  inhabitants 
carry  on  a  variety  of  manufactures,  and  in  1802,  amounted  to 
54,756. 

Bruges,  in  Austrian  Flanders,  is  built  at  a  small  distance  from 
the  German  ocean.     In  1808,  it  contained  33,632  inhabitants. 

Tournay,  in  Austrian  Flanders,  the  most  ancient  town  of  the 
Netherlands,  said  to  have  been  built  600  years  betore  our  Saviour, 
stands  upon  tbe  Scheldt,  neur  the  frontier  of  these  provinces. 
It  contauied,in  1802,  3800  houses,  and  21,349  inhabitants. 

Dunkirk,  in  French  Flanders,  er  the  church  on  the  donvns,  is  a 
large  maritime  tov-n  with  one  of  the  best  harbors  on  the  coast. 
The  strength  of  its  fortifications,  and  the  fact  that  it  is  the  key  of 
the  Netherlands,  have  rendered  it  the  object  of  perpetual  conten- 
tion among  the  varioijs  powers  of  Europe.  Few  towns  have  had 
so  many  masters,  or  suffered  so  often  or  so  much  from  sieges  and 


444  NETHERLANDS. 

bombardnieuts.  It  contained,  in  1802,  1800  houses,  and  21,158 
inhabitants. 

Manufactures  and  Commerce.  The  manufactures  and  com- 
merce ot"  the  Netherlands,  for  a  long  period  superior  to  any  in  the 
west  of  Europe,  have  suffered  a  radical  and  total  decline.  Yet  of 
the  manufactures  a  few  fragments  remain  :  Cambray,  is  still  re- 
nowned for  the  cambrics  which  thence  derived  their  name.  But 
the  chief  manufactures  are  of  fine  linen,  and  laces,  at  Mechlin,  Brus- 
sels, Ghent,  Antwerp,  and  Louvain,  which  still  enrich  the  cou\ury 
around,  and  induce  the  farmers  to  cultivate  flax,  even  on  the  poor- 
(fst  soils.* 

Climate.  The  climate  is  equally  moist,  but  less  cold  than  that 
of  Holland.  It  considerably  resembles  that  of  the  south  of  Eng- 
land, though  the  seasons  are  more  regular.  The  vine  is  cultivat- 
ed with  success  at  Luxemburg. 

Face  of  the  Country.  Flanders  is  one  uniform  level,  in  which 
the  rivers  and  the  canals  are  scarcely  distinguishable.  Farther 
cast  the  country  is  pleasantly  diversified  with  hills  and  valleys, 
2jieadows,  fields,  and  forests^ 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  is  in  general  a  rich  sandy  loam, 
sometimes  interspersed  with  fields  of  clay,  but  oftcner  with  large 
tracts  of  sand.  The  agriculture  of  the  Netherlands  lias  been  cel- 
ebrated for  600  years,  ever  since  their  commerce  and  ^nanuhic- 
lures  were  extensive.  They  were  long  considered  the  g;jiden  of 
Europe  ;  a  praise  which  they  still  share  with  England  and  Loni- 
bardy.  Flax  is  a  great  source  of  riches  to  the  country.  The  but"- 
ter  and  cheese  equal  those  of  Holland. 

R'mers.  The  Scheldt  rises  in  France,  and  runs  N  E.  to  Ant- 
werp, and  thence,  N.  W.  to  the  German  ocean.  About  15  naJes 
below  Antwerp,  it  divides  into  numerous  branches,  which  tnconi- 
pass  tte  islands  of  Zealand.  The  length  of  this  river  is  about  150. 
miles. 

The  Lys  rises  in  France,  near  Lysburg,  and  runs  N.  E,  to  the 
Scheldt,  which  it  joins  at  Ghent. 

The  Dender  falls  into  the  same  river  at  Dendermonde. 

The  Dyle  unites  with  the  Scheldt  at  Niel,  after  receiving  the 
Derme,  the  Senne,  and  the  Nette. 

The  Meuse  has  been  described. 

The  Sambre  runs  N.  E.  to  Namur,  where  it  falls  into  the 
Meuse. 

The  Moselle  runs  through  Luxemburg,  into  the  Rhine  at  Cob*. 
lentz. 

♦  Marshall,  ii.  ^% 


FRANCE.  Ui 


FRENCH  EMPIRE. 

THIS  newly  acquired,  powerful,  and,  as  is  now  believed,  short- 
livco  empire,  is  at  present  divided  as  follows  : 

Square  Miles.  Populatiou. 

1.  North  East  France                  70,790  13,910,727 

2.  North  West  France                  73,740  9,833,090 

3.  South  Wesi  France                 61,135  7,279,891 

4.  South  East  France                  38,705  5,327,279 


244,270  36,550,987 

The  kingdom  of  Holland  1 2,662  2,00 1 ,4 1 6 


256,932  38,352,403 

The  particulars  under  these  grand  divisions,  may  be  seen  ir.  the 
American  Universal  Geography,  vol.  ii.  p.  249.  edit.  1812. 


FRANCE. 

Boundaries.  WHAT  was  France  before  the  revolution  was 
bounded  W.  by  the  bay  of  Biscay;  N- W.  by  the  Enj^iish  chan- 
nel ;  N.  E.  by  the  Netherlands  ;  E.  by  Germany,  Switzerland  and 
Italy  ;  S.  E.  by  the  Mediterranean  ;  and  S.  W.  by  Spain.  The 
subsequent  annexation  of  Holland  and  the  Netherlands  makes  the 
bay  of  Biscay,  the  English  channel,  and  the  German  ocean,  the 
western  boundary  ;  and  the  German  ocean  the  northern.  The  ad- 
ditions in  the  S.  E.  have  still  left  Italy  a  part  of  the  tabiern 
boundary. 

Exteiit.  The  length  of  France,  in  1790,  from  Calais  to  the 
Pyrenees,  was  620  miles ;  and  its  greatest  breadth  from  Cape  St 
]VIahe  to  the  Rhine,  560.  It  extended  from  42  10  to  51  N;  and 
from  4  40  W.  to  7  30  E.  Its  contents  were,  according  to  Hassel, 
exclusive  of  the  islands  Corsica  and  Elba,  187,385  square  miles,  or- 
119,926,400  acres;  while  Neckar  made  them  205,816  square 
miles,  or  131,722,295  acres.  The  extent  of  France  in  1809,  when 
the  Netherlands,  all  of  Germany  west  of  the  Rhine,  the  little  terrif 
tory  of  Geneva,  and  the  western  part  of  Italy  had  been  added,  is 
stated  at  244,270  square  miles.  If  to  this  sum  we  add  the  square 
miles  in  Holland,  we  shall  have  a  grand  total  of  256,932.  The 
present  length  of  France,  from  the  Pyrenees  to  the  north  coast  of 
Holland,  is  796  miles. 

Historical  EfiQchs.  1.  The  possession  of  the  country  by  the 
Celtae,  the  Belgae,  and  the  Aquitani. 

2.  The  conquest  by  CJassar,  in  the  year  54  B.  C.  and  the  subse- 
quent dopijnion  of  the  Romans. 


>446  FRANCE. 

S.  The  establishment  of  the  Merovingian  line  of  kings  in  4:4&v 
and  the  complete  ovti  throw  of  the  Roman  power  by  Clovis,  grand- 
son of  Mcrovaeus,  m  487.  Nine  years  afterwards  the  Francs,  with 
Clovis,  were  converted  to  Christianity. 

4.  The  elevation  of  Pepin,  the  head  of  the  Carlovingian  race,  in 
75  i  ;  followed  20  years  afterwards,  by  the  celebrated  reign  of 
Charicmai^ne  ;  who  subdued  that  part  of  Spain  which  lies  north  of 
the  Ebro,  Italy  north  of  Calabria,  the  whole  of  Germany,  and  a 
part  of  Hungary.  He  was  the  founder  of  the  German  empire,  and 
was  crowned  in  the  year  £00. 

5.  The  accession  of  the  house  of  Capet,  in  987,  which,  till  then, 
had  born  the  title  of  Counts  of  Paris. 

6.  The  Crusades,  in  which  the  French  acted  a  conspicuous  part, 
in  the  iSth  century. 

7.  The  wars  of  the  English  in  France,  and  the  temporary  con- 
quest of  the  country  by  Henry  V.  in  1421.  These  wars  continued 
from  1357  to  1450. 

8.  The  accession  of  the  house  of  Valois,  a  collateral  branch  of 
the  house  of  Capet,  in  1328. 

9.  The  reign  of  Louis  XI.  beginning  1461.  He  rendered  the 
monarchy  absolute. 

10.  The  civil  wars  with  the  protestants,  and  the  massacre  of  St» 
Barthelemy,  in  1571. 

1 1.  The  accession  of  the  house  of  Bourbon,  a  second  collateral 
branch  of  the  liouse  of  Capet,  in  the  person  of  Henry  IV.  justly 
styled  the  Great,  in  1588. 

12.  The  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  often  styled  the  Augustan  age  of 
France. 

13.  The  French  revolution,  which  ccmmenced  1789. 

14.  The  erection  of  France  into  an  empire,  and  the  accession  of 
the  family  of  Bonaparte,  Dec.  2d,  1804. 

Reiigton.  In  1800,  during  the  consulate  of  Bonaparte,  the  cath- 
olic religion  was  reestablished  ;  but  the  various  sects  of  protest- 
ants were  tolerated.  France  M'as  divided  into  10  archbishoprics  ; 
that  of  Paris,  containing  8  bishoprics  ;  that  of  Malines,  containing 
7  ;  Eesanron,  5  ;  Lyons,  4  ;  Aix,  4  ;  Toulouse,  5  ;  Bordeaux,  3  ; 
Bourp-es,  3  ;  Tours,  7  ;  and  Rouen,  4.  The  church  was  rendered 
entirely  independent  of  the  pope.  The  salary  for  the  archbishops 
■was  fixed  at  15,000  livres  ;  that  of  the  bishops  at  10,000  ;  both  are 
appointed  by  the  government.  The  bishops  aj^point  the  Cures. 
The  Calvinistic  churches,  at  the  same  time,  were  placed  unde."  the 
direction  of  consistories  and  synods.  A  consistory  was  established 
for  every  6000  souls  of  this  denomination,  and  5  consistories  form- 
ed the  district  of  a  synod.  There  is  a  seminary  at  Geneva  for  the 
education  of  the  Calvinistic  clergy.  The  Lutheran  churches  were 
committed  to  local  consistories,  having  a  jurisdiction  equally  ex- 
tensive with  those  of  the  Calvinistic  churches ;  inspections,  hav- 
ing jurisdiction  over  5  consistories  ;  and  3  general  consistories  : 
one  at  Strasburg,  for  Augsburg  and  the  departments  of  Upper  and 
I^ower  Rhine  ;  a  second  at  Mentz,  for  those  of  Sarre  and  Mont 
TTonucrc  ;  a  third  at  Cologne,  for  those  of  the  Rhine;  Moselle,  and 


FRANCE.  ,  44/ 

jSbar.  A  seminary  is  established  in  the  east  of  France  for  tlie  ed- 
ucation of  the  Lutheran  clergy.  These  various  bodies  can  assem- 
ble only  with  permission  of  the  government. 

As  to  the  present  state  of  the  Catholic  cinirch,  few  of  the  cures 
are  supplied  ;  and,  where  cures  arc  found,  tiiey  are,  in  most  in- 
stances, ignorant  and  profligate.  The  existing  public  sciioots  fur- 
nish so  few  of  the  means  of  education  for  the  priesthood,  the  an- 
nual stipend  of  the  inferior  clergy  is  so  little,  and  so  much  of  liiat 
little  is  withheld,  and  the  morals  of  the  French  community  are 
so  generally  corrupt,  that  few  can  be  found  with  the  disposition, 
the  courage,  or  the  capacity,  to  discharge  the  clerical  office. 

Government.  From  the  time  of  I.ouis  XI.  to  the  death  of' 
Louis  XVL  the  French  government  had  been  an  absolute  mon- 
archy, administered  sometimes  with  mildness,  often  with  cruelty. 
During  the  14  years  of  the  revolution,  the  government  passed 
through  almost  every  conceivable  form,  and  at  lengt'.i  settled  into 
an  iron  despotism,  under  Napoleon  Bonaparte.  This  despotism  is 
military  in  its  character,  and  while  it  lasts,  must  depend  on  the 
army  for  its  support.  The  imperial  dignity  is  hereditary,  in  the 
order  of  primogeniture,  to  the  exclusion  of  females  and  t'leir  de- 
scent.    The  members  of  the  emperor's  family  are  princes. 

France  is  now  subdivided  irito  1 10  departments,  in  each  of  which 
is  a  prefect,  and  several  sub-prefects.  Their  business  is  mechan- 
ically to  execute  the  various  orders  of  the  government,  particular- 
ly with  regard  to  taxes  and  the  conscription  ;  and  to  act  as  spies- 
upon  the  inhabitants.  The  departments  are  divided  into  com- 
munes. The  influence  of  the  emperor  is  absolute  aiid  pervades 
and  controls  his  whole  empire. 

The  greiit  means  adopted  by  the  government,  to  perpetuate  this, 
system,  has  been  to  corrupt,  hopelessly,  the  morals  of  all  the  ofli- 
cers,  civil  and  military  ;  and  then  to  appeal  forcibly  to  their  ava- 
rice and  tlieir  love  of  power. 

Population.  The  Imperial  Almanac  of  1808  states  the  popu- 
lation of  the  whole  empire,  according  to  the  census  of  IS07,  at 
36,350,987.  Of  these,  26,775,397  belong  to  old  France  ;  and  of 
the  remaining  9,575,600,  4,J40,255  belong  to  the  Net!ierlands  ; 
5,291,291  to  Italy,  including  that  of  Geneva;  and  2,144,054  to 
Ciermany.  If  to  these  be  added  the  population  of  IIoll;u:d,  that  ot 
the  whole  F'rcnch  empire,  as  it  was  in  1811,  Mill  amount  to 
38,  352,403. 

Cy  the  official  returns  of  the  population  of  the  French  empire  in 
]S12,  it  appears  that  there  were  in  the  ancient  provinces  of  France, 
28,785,91 1  souls  ;  in  and  the  countries  annexed  to  France  since  the 
revolution,  13,951,465,  making  a  total  of  42,738,377.  In  old 
France  the  number  to  a  square  mile  is  194-5,  and  in  the  united- 
countries  228-5.  Old  France  contains  147,973  square  miles,  and- 
the  new  departments  61,050.* 

Colonics.  At  the  commencement  of  the  revolution  France  haci) 
^eiy  Talua1)le  colonies  in  the  West  Indies,  in  South  America,  ini 

•Edlaburgli  Christian  Instructer, 


448  FRAKCE. 

Africa,  and  in  Asia.     At  present,  all,  except  St.  Domingo,  are 

in  the  hands  of  the  English.     That  island  forms  an  independent 

kingdom. 

Army.     The  following  is   an  abstract  of  the   account  of  the 

French  army,  at  the  close  of  the  year  1807,  as  given  in  the  Impe- 

al  Almanac  of  1 808. 

Officer^  Privates.  Total. 

General  Staff  2,049  2,049 

Imperial  Guards  847  14,498  15,345 

Imperial  Gens  d'armes      693  16,752  17,445 

Infantry  11,439  380,290  391,729 

Cavalry  5,234  69,086  72,320 

Artillery  2,357  49,937  52,304 

Engineers  602  4,186  4,788 

Veterans  770  13,180  13,950 


Total  22,001  547,929  569,930* 

The  officers  of  the  first  column  are  all  commissioned.  The 
second  column  includes  both  non-commissioned  officers  and  pri- 
vates. 

The  army,  since  1798,  has  been  raised  by  what  is  called  the 
ConHcrijition.  This  takes  effect  every  year.,  and  includes  all  the 
male  population  from  the  age  of  20  to  25.  All  of  this  description 
are  liable  to  be  called  into  service  whenever  the  goverament  di- 
rects. Those  of  20  are  drawn  out  first.  The  others  remain  lia- 
ble, till  the  end  of  the  25th  year,  whenever  the  quota  required  is 
deficient.  If  these  are  found  insufficient,  the  conscription  age  is 
changed,  and  youths  from  16  to  20,  and  men  of  any  age,  over  25, 
are  demanded. 

JVavy.  Hassel  states  it,  in  1809,  at  40  ships  of  the  line,  and  30 
frigates.  It  has  since  been  increased.  By  the  annexation  of  Hol- 
land CO  France  she  gained  13  ships  of  the  line,  and  10,000  seamen. 

Revenue.     Hassel  slates  the  revenue  of  four  years  as  follows. 
Francs.  Francs. 

1803  664,500,000        1805    710,000,000 

1804  ,  700,000,000        1807    720,000,0001 

To  the  present  revenue  should  now  be  added  that  of  Holland, 
amounting  to  ;C4, 375,000  sterling. 

The  expenditure  of  tliat  year,  as  estimated  by  the  same  authcis 
equalled  the  revenue,  viz. 

Interest  of  national  debt  75,159,000 

Civil  list  28,000,000 

Service  of  the  state  616,841,000 


720,000,000 


*  According^  to  Herbin,  the  army  of  1802  contained  600,949  men  ;  the  Po- 
litical Miscellany  states  that  of  1805  at  414,125  ;  and  Borch  says,  that  that  of 
1805  amounted  to  (510,975  effective  men.  In  June,  1811,  France  had  800,000 
«ien  under  arms— [£.r/>oi£  ofths  Minister  of  the  Interien 

f  30,900,000/,  sterling.- 


FRANCE.  4m 

The  cun-ent  money  of  France  used  to  be  computed  at 
^^90,000,000  sterling,  when  that  of  Great  Britaui  was  estimated  at 
;C40,000,000. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  French  are  distinguished  for  taste 
and  elegance  in  their  houses,  furniture,  equipage,  and  dress ;  for 
ease  and  graccfuhiess  of  manners  ;  for  quickness  of  apprehension  ; 
for  vivacity  and  gaiety  of  temper  ;  and  for  a  perpetual  fondness 
for  amusement  and  pleasure.  This  is  tlie  bright  side  of  the  medalo 
The  reverse,  painful  and  distressing  before  the  revolution,  is  now 
loathsome  and  awful.  During  the  revolutionary  period  of  anarchy, 
the  morals  of  the  nation,  distmguished  for  tlieir  corruption  before, 
were  rendered  immensely  more  corrupt  by  profligate  rulers  and 
profligate  literati.  The  French,  as  a  nation,  are  at  present,  by  the 
confession  even  of  sober  and  discreet  Frenchmen,  false  and  faith- 
less ;  revengeful  and  sanguinar)-.  The  law  of  divorces  has  reu'^ 
dered  marriage  the  mere  cover  for  prostitution  ;  and  France  pre- 
sents at  this  moment  the  picture  cf  one  great  common  brothel,  in 
which  every  variety  of  lewdness  is  indulged  without  shame  and 
without  restraint.  The  only  liberal  education  is  tiiat  for  the  army  ; 
and  the  young  men  of  promise  and  of  rank  have  only  this  advantage 
over  their  inferiors,  that  they  are  earlier  fitted  for  scenes  of  bar- 
barity and  bloodshed.  This  sanguinary  education  explams  the 
havoc  and  the  ruin,  which  every  where  mark  the  progress  of 
French  arms  ;  and  which  have  rendered  Frenchmen  the  objects  of 
terror  and  abhorrence  wherever  they  are  known. 

Language,  The  French  is  a  corruption  of  the  Latin,  with  many 
Gothic  and  some  Celtic  v/ords  intermixed.  It  was  always  a  com- 
manding object  with  the  government  to  extend  tiie  French  lan- 
guage and  French  fashions  ;  and  at  this  time  the  language  is  moro 
universally  diffused  than  any  other  in  Europe.  Its  purity  has, 
however,  been  very  much  corrupted  by  the  introduction  of  new 
and  barbarous  words  and  phrases  suice  the  revolution. 

Literature.  The  French  were  long  distinguislicd  for  their  at* 
fenlion  to  elegant  literature  :  and  their  researches  in  mathematical 
and  physical  science  have  been  highly  respectable.  At  the  pres- 
ent time  science  is  encouraged,  only  as  it  has  a  tendency  tf»  pro- 
mote the  views  of  the  government.  The  attention  of  the  F^  ench 
savans,  therefore  is  chiefly  directed  to  the  mathematics  and  the  va- 
rious branches  of  natural  history.  Hardly  a  man  of  learning,  in 
the  appropriate  sense  of  the  word,  is  to  be  found  in  the  nation. 
The  study  of  the  Greek  and  the  oriental  languages  has  been  ban- 
ished from  the  public  schools,  and  the  writers  of  antiquity  are  seen 
only  in  a  French  costume. 

Education.  By  the  imperial  decree  of  April,  1808,  tlie  various 
schools,  academies,  and  cf)lleges  of  France  are  connected  together, 
and  form  the  Imficrial  University.  This  is  composed  of  as  many 
Provincial  Academies.,  as  there  are  courts  of  appeal  u»  the  empire. 
The  schools  belonging  to  each  academy  are  arranged  in  the  follow- 
ing order.  I.  The  Faculties.,  for  the  more  profound  sciences,  and 
for  the  conferring  of  degrees.  2.  Tlie  Lyceums.,  or  Lycess,  for 
the  classics,  hisioiy,  logic,  mathematics,  and  physics.  ."  Th« 
57 


450  '.  FRANCE".-  .        .      f 

Colleges,  for  the  elements  of  the  classics,  of  history,  and  oF  the  ■ 
sciences.  4.  Schools  kefit  by  private  7nasters,  in  which  the  in- 
struction approaches  that  of  the  colleges.  5.  Boarding  schools^ 
where  it  is  less  severe.  6.  Primary  schools,  where  reading,  writ- 
ing, and  arithmetic  are  taught.  The  members  of  the  faculties  are 
men  of  mere  science,  and  those  who  are  soon  to  be  the  professors 
of  the  inferior  institutions.  Of  the  Lyceums  there  are  45  in  the 
empire.  Each  has  a  board  of  8  professors,  and  a  library  of  1500 
volumes,  both  selected  by  the  government.  No  books  can  be  in- 
troduced without  the  permission  of  the  minister  of  the  interior. 
Beside  the  professors,  there  is  an  officer,  entitled  Z' O^cier  zw- 
structeur,  who  is  charged  with  the  military  instruction  of  the  pu- 
pils. They  are  divided  into  companies  of  25  with  each  a  sm'geant 
major,  a  sergeant,  and  4  corporals.  They  assemble  at  given 
hours  of  the  day,  and  go  through  with  all  the  military  evolutions. 
The  students  are  composed  of  tl^e  children  of  the  wealthy  families 
of  France,  and  of  those  who  are  educated  at  the  public  expense. 
The  students  educated  at  the  public  expense,  are  said  to  exceed 
in  number  those  educated  by  tlieir  parents  at  the  Lyceums.  The 
professors  are  generally  persons  of  slender  abilities,  and  are  very 
miserably  supported  by  their  salaries.  The  buildings  appropri- 
ated to  these  institutions  are  in  a  neglected  and  mouldering  state. 

The  military  academies  contain  about  1  500  young  men,  all  sup- 
ported by  the  state.  They  are  selected  from  the  alumni  of  the 
Lyceums.  The  term  of  instruction  is  two  years.  They  are  sup- 
plied with  the  ablest  professors,  and  are  in  every  respect  admira- 
bly organized.  They  send  forth  annually  a  host  of  accomplished 
officers,  engineers  and  mechanicians. 

Citir:s  and  Towns.     The   number   of  large  and  populous  towns- 
in  France  is  so  great,  that  only  a  small  part  of  them   can   be  par- 
ticularly described.     Exclusive  of  those  in  Holland  and  the  Neth- 
erlands, there  are  considerably  more  than  100  towns  iti  the  empire 
■whose  population  exceeds  10,000. 

Paris,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom,  is  built  en  an  extensive  plain 
on  hoth  sides  of  liie  Seine,  and  on  three  islands  in  that  I'iver,  in  a 
healthy  and  pleasant  situation,  with  delightful  environs ;  and  is 
said  to  be  1 1  miles  in  circumference.  It  covers  a  very  large  free= 
stone  quarry,  which  has  furnished  materials  for  most  of  the  houses, 
and  has  been  so  extensively  excavated,  that  an  earthquake  migh« 
easily  bury  the  ciiv.  The  number  of  houses  is  32,000,  from  four* 
to  seven  stories  high,  generally  iiandsome,  and  with  uniform  fronts. 
The  population  in  1807,  was  547,75  6.  There  are  12  bridges  over 
the  Seine,  and  26  fine  quays  along  its  banks.  There  were,  before, 
the  revoluiion,  88  churches,  40  chapels,  10  abbeys,  28  priories, 
and  103  convents,  besides  numerous  hospitals  and  seminaries. 

Marseilles  is  sealed  at  the  foot  of  a  rocky  mountain  near  the 
sea,  and  is  divided  into  the  old  and  new  town.  The  liarbor,  a  par- 
alielof^iam,  with  buildings  on  both  sides  and  one  "of  the  ends,  is 
well  defended,  capacious,  and  one  of  the  best  in  the  Mediterrane- 
an ;  but  the  entrance  has  not  depth  of  water  enough  for  men  of: 
■war.  Here  is  a  large  arsenal,  and  one  of  the  finest  armories  in- 
the  kingdom.     The  population,  in  1807,  was  96,413. 


FRANCE.  451 

'  Bordeaux  is  built  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Garonne,  about  40  miles 
•  From  its  mouth.  The  tide  flows  quite  up  to  the  city  ;  its  port  is 
ample,  commodious,  and  strongly  fortified  ;  and  ships  of  consider- 
able burden  may  unload  at  the  quays,  which  are  giand  and  exten- 
sive. It  is  the  first  commercial  town  in-  France,  and  formerly  it 
v/as  not  unusual  to  see  400  or  500  vessels  in  the  harbor  at  once. 
The  chief  exports  were  brandy  and  claret.  The  population,  in 
1808,  was  90,992. 

Lyons,  at  the  confiux  of  the  Rhone  and  the  Saone,  was  the 
second  city  in  France  before  the  revolution,  and  is  said  to  have 
contained  150,000  souls.  It  was  the  centre  of  the  inland  com- 
merce in  this  part  of  the  kingdom,  and  the  scat  of  t!ie  most  ex- 
tensive manufactures.  Irreparable  injury  was  done  to  the  city 
by  the  jacobin  party,  in  consequence  of  the  fidelity  of  the  inhab- 
'  itants  to  the  king.  In  1802  it  had  11,000  houses,  and  88,919  in- 
habitants. 

Rouen,  on  the  Seine,  is  a  large  commercial  andmanufaciuiing 
town.     In  1802  it  had  84,222  inhabitants. 

Nantes,  en  the  Loire,  is  one  of  the  largest  trading  cities  in 
France.     It  had;  in  1807,  77,162  inhabitants. 

Toulouse,  on  the  Garonne.     It  had  50,171  inhabitants  in  1S02. 
Strasburg  is  the  thorou^^hfare  between  France   and   Germany, 
situated  at  the  conflux  of  the   lie  and   the   Ri  usch,  about  a  mile 
from  their  entrance  into  the  Rhine.     Inhabitants,  in  J 802,  49,056. 
Cologne,  built  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  on  t!ie  Rhine,  is  fortifi- 
ed in  the  ancient  manner.     Inhabitants,  in  1807,  42,706. 

Orleans,  on  the  Loire,  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  cities  in 
France.     Inhabitants  in  1802,41,937. 

Montpellier  stands  upon  a  rising  ground  fronting  the  Mediter- 
ranean, which  is  about  nine  miles  to  the  south.  Inhabitants,  in 
1807,  32,723. 

Metz  stands  at  the  conflux  of  the  Seille  and'  Moselle.  In  1 807 
it  had  32,099  inhabitants. 

Rheims  is  situated  on  the  Vesle.  Formerly  the  archbisliop  of 
Rheims  was  the  first  peer  of  France,  and  always  crowned  the  king. 
In  18U2,  it  had  30,225  inhabitants. 

Toulon,  on  the  Mediterranean,  a  little  east  of  Marseilles,  has  an 
outer  harbor,  which  is  large,  circular,  and  surrounded  by  hilis. 
The  entrance  on  both  sides  is  defended  by  a  fort  with  strong  bat- 
teries. Toulon  is  the  only  harbor  for  the  navy  on  the  southern 
coast.     Inhabitants,  29,780. 

Brest  is  the  chief  resort  of  the  navy  on  the  western  coast.  It 
has  two  parish  churches,  a  marine  seminary,  a  court  of  admiralty, 
and  25,865  inhabitants.  The  harbor,  if  we  except  Toulon,  is  the 
largest  and  safest  in  the  kingdom,  and  capable  of  containing  500 
ships  of  war,  in  8,  10,  and  15  fathoms  at  lov/  water. 

Boulogne  lies  on  the  English  channel,  on  the  declivity,  and  at 
the  foot  of  the  chalk  mountain.  It  has  10,685  inhabitants.  The 
harbor,  formed  by  the  river  Liane,  is  defended  at  the  nxouth  by  a 
small  fort.  The  entrance  is  diflicult.  Hei'e  lay  the  flotilla,  in  1804 
and  1805,  prepared  for  the  invasion  of  Great  Britain. 


452  FRANCE. 

Bayonne,  st  the  corner  of  the  bay  of  Biscay,  is  a  leag-we  froiru 
the  sea,  on  the  Nive,  which  forms  a  good  harbor,  with  a  narrovr 
and  dangerous  entrance.  The  commerce  with  Spain  is  valuable. 
Inhabitants,  13,190. 

Havre,  or  Havre  de  Grace,  lies  a  little  north  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Seine.  The  harbor  has  depth  for  large  vessels,  and  the  water 
does  not  ebb,  till  three  hours  after  full  tide,  being  as  it  were  dam-= 
sued  up  by  the  current  of  the  Seine,  which  crosses  its  nttouth.  It 
has  20,620  inhabitants. 

Inland  M:viga(ion,  The  chief  worl:,  noticeable  under  this  head^ 
is  the  celebrated  canal  of  Languedoc,  commenced  and  completed 
m  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.  by  Ri([uet,  the  engineer,  under  the 
Siuspices  of  that  able  minister  Colbert.  Fifteen  years  of  labor 
were  employed,  from  1666  to  1681.  This  noble  canal  begins  in 
the  bay  of  Languedoc  ;  and  at  St.  Perriol  is  a  reservoir  of  595  a- 
cres  of  water  :  it  enters  the  Garonne  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  be- 
low the  city  of  Toulouse.  The  breadth,  including  the  towing  paths^ 
is  !44  feet  ;  the  depth  6  feet ;  the  length  about  180  inilcs.  The 
expense  was  more  than  half  a  million  sterling. 

Manufactures.  For  a  century  extending  frora  1650  to  1750,1 
Mr.*  Young  supposes  France  to  have  possessed  the  most  flourish- 
ing manufactures  in  Europe  ;  and  French  writers  affect  to  speak 
of  the  English  manufactures  as  being  of  recent  fame.  Not  to  men- 
tion many  others,  the  silk  manufactures  of  Lynns  were  estimated 
^o  employ  60,000  people,  the  looms  being  computed  at  12,000. 

€o7nmerce.  By  the  account  for  17*4,  which  did  not  include  the 
provinces  of  Lorrain  a.nd  Alsace,  nor  the  West-Indiaa  trade,  the 
statement  was 

Total  exports,         307,151,700  livres. 
— —imports,  271,565,000 


Balance,  35,786,700  or  ;Cl»565,668  sterling. 
At  present  France  has  no  commerce  on  the  ocean. 
Climate  and  Seasons,  Mr.  Young  divides  the  country  Uito  four 
climates.  A  line  passing  from  Heibignac,  a  town  a  little  north  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Loire,  nearly  straight  through  Beaujnorit,  Cler- 
mont, and  Couci,  to  the  Rhine,  will  leave  a  tract  to  the  N.  W.  caiJ- 
ed  the  northern  climate,  in  which  tlie  vine  v^i'll  not  grow.  It  is, 
considerably  warmer  than  England,  but  equally  moist ;  and  pro- 
duces a  great  variety  of  fine  fruits.  The  itine  climate  is  a  sj)ace  in- 
cluded between  this  and  a  line  passing  nearly  parallel  with  the  oth- 
er, from  the  mouth  of  the  Garonne,  through  Ruffec  and  Luneviile. 
This  is  the  pleasantest.  The  air  is  light,  pure,  and  elastic  ;  and 
ihe  sky  is  generally  clear.  The  summers  are  not  fervid,  and  the 
winters  are  mild.  The  raaize  climate  is  broader.  Its  southern, 
boundary  is  a  line  passing  Irom  the  Pyrenees  through  Carcassonne 
and  Grenoble  to  the  Alps.  The  vine  also  grows  here  luxuriantly. 
The  tract  S.  E.  of  this  line  is  called  the  oiive  climate.  It  is  much 
^h©  sjnaUest,  and  in  the  summer  season  is  crowded  with  myriads  of 

*  Young's  Francci  i,  SS,&. 


ERANCE^.  453 

flies.  Both  vines  and  maize  grow  here  abundantly.  This  division 
of  France,  which,  with  here  aiKl  there  a  set-off,  is  strictly  accurate, 
points  out  the  eastern  side  of  the  kint^dom,  as  2^  degrees  ot  lati- 
tude hotter  than  the  western,  or  at  least  more  favorable  to  vcgetitv 
lion. 

Face  of  the  Countrij.  France,  north  of  the  mountains  of  h\\-^ 
vergne,  and  west  of  the  range  of  the  Vosges,  may  be  called  au 
uneven  country  ;  but  is  no  Avhere  mountainous.  The  surface  is 
every  where  sufficiently  varied  to  render  the  prospects  interesting. 
Between  the  Pyrenees  and  the  mountains  of  Auvergne,  lies  aii  ex-? 
tensive  tract  of  the  same  description,  reaching  from  llie  ocean  tq 
the  Rhone.  Limosin  surpasses  every  province  of  France  in  beauty. 
Hill,  dale,  wood,  inclosure,  streams,  lakes,  and  scattered  farms  are 
minglfd  into  a  thousand  delightful  landscapes.  The  bankb  of  the 
Seine  for  200  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  of  the  Loire  as  high  as 
Angers,  are  also  eminently  beautiful.  The  course  of  the  Soane  is 
marked  by  a  noble  tract  of  meadows.  The  country  east  of  the 
Rhone  presents  many  pleasing  scenes,  and  the  course  of  the  Lere 
is  a  scene  of  perpetual  beauty.  The  Pyrenees  are  the  most  strik- 
ing of  the  mountains,  and  their  verdui-e,  their  woods,  their  rocks, 
and  their  torrents  have  all  the  characters  of  the  sublime  and  beau- 
tiful. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  north  part  of  France  is  a  rich  calca- 
reous plain,  having  a  loam  of  considerable  depth,  and  of  an  ad- 
mirable texture.  Farther  W.  the  land  is  pour  and  stony.  The 
S.  W.  part  of  the  kingdom  from  Auch  to  Bayonne  is  indifferent  ; 
but  the  plain  of  the  Garonne  and  its  branches  has  a  dee]),  mellow, 
friable,  sandy  loam,  with  sufficient  moisture  for  any  culture  :  much 
of  it  is  calcareous.  The  east  provinces  are  calcareous,  but  less 
uniformly  rich  than  the  northern.  Lower  Poitou  ai  d  Alsace  are 
eminently  fertile.  The  tract  between  the  Mediterranean  and  the 
Cayennes  mountains  is  of  the  same  description. 

The  agriculture  of  France  is  greatly  behind  that  of  England, 
About  one  third  of  the  country  is  divided  into  little  farms,  too  small 
to  support  their  proprietors. 

Ri-vers.  The  Rhine,  till  J.ately  a  boundary  of  France,  but  since 
the  annexation  of  Holland,  running  for  a  considerable  extent 
through  it,  has  already  been  described.  Of  the  otiier  rivers  there 
are  four  of  considerable  size  ;  the  Seine,  the  Loire,  the  GaroniiC 
and  the  Rhone. 

The  Loire  passes  Orleam;,  and  thence  S.  of  W.  to  the  ocean. 
Its  whole  length  is  upwards  of  500  miles. 

The  Rhone,  a  noble  and  rapid  stream,  rises  in  Mount  Furca^ 
about  5400  feet  above  the  sea.  It  winds  about  90  miles  westward, 
through  the  vale,  called  the  Vallais,  and  enters  the  Geneva  lake 
near  its  eastern  extremity.  From  the  western  end  its  course  is  S. 
W.  to  Lyons,  Its  direction  is  S.  from  Lyons  to  the  gulf  of  Lyon.s, 
■which  it  enters  by  several  mouths.     Its  length  exceeds  400  miles.. 

The  Garonne  rises  in  the  Pyrenees,  and  runs  N.  W.  to  the  bay 
of  Biscay.  About  12  miles  below  Eourdeaux  it  is  joined  by  the 
l^ordogne,  from  the  N.  E.  and  for  the  remainder  of  its  course. 


N.,M.  FRANCE. 

vibout  28  miles,  it  is  called  the  Gironde.     Its  length  is  30O  miles. 
The  canal  of  Langiiedoc  connects  it  with  the  Aude. 

The  Seine  is  of  about  equal  leng;th  with  the  Garonne.  Rising 
near  Saint  Seine,  it  runs  in  a  N.  W.  direction  to  the  English  chan- 
nel, and  is  the  most  beautiful  stream  in  France. 

The  Somme  runs  by  Amiens  and  Abbeville  to  the  English  chan- 
nel. Tiie  Adour  empties  below  Bayonne.  The  Var  falls  into  the 
Mediterranean  about  4  miles  west  of  Nice. 

Mountains.  Mont  Jura,  a  vanguard  of  the  Alps,  forms  a  boun- 
dary between  France  and  Swisserland. 

Ihe  grand  chain  of  the  Cevennes  run  from  N.  to  S.  and  sends  out 
branches  towards  the  E.  and  W.  The  MontsD'Or  form  the  cen- 
tre, and  are  the  highest  mountains  in  France.  The  chief  elevation 
is  that  of  the  Puy  de  Sansi,  which  rises  about  6300  feet  above  the 
jevel  of  the  sea. 

The  Pyrenees  remain  t»D  be  described.  Mont  Perdu  is  consid- 
ered as  the  highest  elevation  of  the  Pyrenees,  ascending  above  the 
sea  about  1 1,000  feet.  Other  noted  heights  are  Marbore,  the  Pic 
de  Midi,  the  Niege  Veiile,  See.  The  Pyrenean  chain  appears  at  a 
-distance  like  a  shaggy  ridge,  presenting  the  segment  of  a  circle 
fronting  France,  and  descending  at  each  extremity  till  it  disappear 
in  the  ocean  and  Mediterranean. 

Mineralos^ij.  There  are  silver  mines  in  Alsace,  and  in  the  de- 
partment of  the  Upper  Rhine.  The  same  district  and  others  also 
contain  mines  of  copper.  The  dutchy  of  Deux  Fonts,  on  the  west 
<of  the  Rhine,  is  celebrated  for  mines  of  quicksilver.  The  annual 
product  of  these  and  the  neighboring  mines  may  be  estimated  at 
67,200  pounds  of  mercury.*  Two  thirds  of  the  lead  of  France  are 
from  Bretagne.  Antimony,  mines  of  calamine,  manganese,  cobalt, 
and  mercury  are  found  in  different  parts  of  France. 

Iron  is  found  in  abundance,  particularly  in  some  of  the  northern 
departments.  In  1798,  it  was  computed  that  there  v/ere  2000  fur- 
naces, forges,  &c.  for  the  working  of  iron  and  steel. f  The  coal 
mines  of  France  were  at  the  same  time  estimated  at  400,  constantly 
-wrought ;  and  200  more  capable  of  being  wrought. 

Besides  excellent  freestone  the  environs  of  Paris  contain  abun- 
dance of  gypsum.  Alum  is  found  in  considerable  quantities  at 
.:\veyron.     The  Pyrenees  in  particular  supply  beautiful  marbles. 

FRENCH  ISLANDS. 

Corsica  is  1 10  miles  from  the  coast  of  Genoa,  and  1 1  from  that 
of  Sardinia.  It  lies  between  41  11  and  42  54  N  ;  and  between  8 
and  10  E;  having  the  gulf  of  Genoa  N  ;  the  Tuscan  sea  E  ;  the 
straits  of  Bonifacio  S  ;  and  the  Mediterranean  W.  Its  length  is 
106  miles  ;  its  breadth  from  50  to  40  ;  and  it  contains,  according 
to  Hassel,  3977  square  miles.  The  English  conquered  the  island 
in  1795  ;  but,  in  a  few  years,  the  inhabitants  returned  to  their  alle- 
giance to  France.     The  religion  is  the  catholic.     The  island  now 

*  Jeurn.  dc»  Mines,  xi.  43.  t  Ibid.  Aim.  vii.  p.  171. 


FRANXE.  /55:. 

ct)t)?titutes  two  departments  of  France.  The  northern  Golo,  the 
southern  Liamone^  which  includes  also  the  island  of  Elba.  Tota! 
population,  185,695.  The  language  is  the  Italian.  The  Genoese 
purposely  kept  the  inhabitants  in  ignorance.  There  was  a  univer- 
sity of  some  reputation  at  Cortc,  in  the  centre  of  the  island.  Bas- 
tia  on  the  N.  E.  side,  the  largest  town  in  the  island,  had  in  1807, 
1 1,366  inhabitants.  It  has  a  small  good  harbor  for  merchant  ships„ 
A  mountain  in  the  neighborhood  commands  the  town.  Ajaccio  ou 
the  S.  E.  coast,  the  birth-place  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte,  contains 
6576  inhabitants.  Bonifacio,  in  the  S.  has  3187.  Coral,  which  is 
found  abundantly  on  the  coast,  is  the  chief  article  exported.  The 
commerce  might  be  extensive.  The  coast  every  where  offers 
good  anchorage,  and  there  are  numerous  and  excellent  harbors  on 
every  side  of  the  island.  Porto  Vccchio,  in  the  S.  E.  is  5  miles- 
long,  li  broad,  with  a  great  depth  of  water,  and  a  good  bottom.  It 
is  one  of  the  best  in  Europe.  The  climate  is  mild  ;  and  the  air, 
except  in  the  neighborhood  of  marshes,  is  healthy.  Many  of  these 
have  been  drained.  The  interior  of  tiie  land  is  mountainous,  and  a 
chain  of  mountains  commences  near  the  coast,  about  20  miies  W.  ■ 
of  Porto  Vecchio,  and  runs  N.  N.  E.  across  the  island,  leaving 
about  Y  of  the  island  to  the  E.  Gradaccio,  the  higliest  elevation, 
is  near  the  centre.  The  whole  island,  together  with  the  coasts  of 
France  and  Italy,  are  visible  from  its  tops.  There  are  large  tracts 
of  woodland.  Tlie  inhabitants  live  chiefly  in  little  villages;  rnanv 
of  which  are  built  on  the  summits  of  the  mountains  at  such  a  heig!»c 
that  they  are  visible  only  in  the  night,  when  the  shepherds  kindk; 
their  fires.  The  soil  is  fertile  even  on  the  mountains.  It  pro- 
duces flax,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  ar.d  millet.  Excellent  wines  are 
made  in  several  of  the  cantons  ;  and  the  vine  and  the  olive  find 
here  a  kinder  cliniate  than  in  France.  The  lemon,  orange,  pome- 
granate, almond,  and  mulberry  are  thrifty.  Chesnut  trees  are  won- 
derfully numerous.  The  oak,  the  fir,  the  cedar,  and  the  pine  grow- 
to  a  great  height.  The  island  swarms  with  bees :  the  l^oney  is 
rather  sharp,  bu-t  the  wax  is  excellent.  The  horses  arc  of  the  Sar- 
dinian breed  ;  small,  but  strong  and  active.  The  cattle  are  large  ;, 
but  inferior.  Oil  supplies  the  place  of  butter.  Sheep  are  numer- 
ous ;  their  wool  is  coarse,  but  their  mutton  excellent.  The  inhab- 
itants arc  thin  and  swarthy.  They  are  described  as  generally  in- 
dolent, ignorant,  and  superstitious.  They  are  not  distinguished  for 
their  probity,  and  are  said  never  to  forgive  an  injury,  or  an  affront. 
At  the  same  time  they  are  intrepid,  active,  sagacious,  and  hospita- 
ble. 

Elba,  with  the  little  surrounding  isles,  was  added  to  the  French 
territory  in  1 802^  It  is  1 2  miles  fiom  Etruria,  and  30  from  Corsica, 
It  is  chiefly  mountainous.  The  air  is  delightful.  The  soil  pro- 
duces the  fine  fruits  of  tropical  riimatcs.  Wood  ajid  pastures  arc 
scarce.  It  is  wonderfully  rich  in  mineralogy.  Here  are  mines  of. 
gold,  silver,  copper,  iron,  magnet,  lead,  sulphur,  and  vitriol  ;  and: 
quarries  of  marble,  granite,  and  slate.  The  iron  mine  of  Riu  for- 
ntierly  yielded  a  clear  annual  profit  of  50,000  crowns.  The  mines- 
arc  now  farmed  for  500,000  livres.     The  isbnd  contains  158  square-. 


456  GERMANY. 

miles,  and  had,  in  1807,  13,750  inhabitants.  Porto  Ferrajo  has 
3000  inhtibitrints,  and  Marciana  9.500.  The  islands  called  llyeres 
near  Toulon  have  a  barren  and  naked  appearance,  and  only  pre- 
sent a  few  stinted  and  scattered  pines. 

On  the  western  coast  are  the  isle   of  Oleron,  and  the  isle  of 
Ushunt,  or  Oucssant. 


GERMANY. 

THE  geo;^raphy  of  Gerniany  has  always  been  the  inost  difficult 
of  any  cuunirv  in  Europe.  It  is  subdivided  into  so  many  states, 
and  these  again  into  so  many  petty  districts,  each  an  independent 
principality,  governed  by  its  own  laws,  and  regulating  its  own  po- 
lice, that  the  geographer  has  found  it  impossible  to  be  concise,  with- 
out being  defective ;  minute,  without  being  tedious  ;  or  either, 
v.'ithout  being  obscure.  The  late  changes  have  not  relieved  him 
from  these  difficulties. 

Extent.  Germany  anciently  reached  from  the  Rhine  to  beyond 
tlie  Vistula,  and  from  the  Baltic  to  the  Danube.  Its  modern 
breadth,  from  the  Rhine  to  the  eastern  confines  of  Silesia,  is  500 
miles  ;  and  its  length,  from  the  isle  of  Rugen  to  the  southern  lim- 
its of  Austria,  is  600. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  are  Denmark  and  the  Baltic  ;  on  the  E. 
Prussia,  Poland,  Hungary,  Sclavonia,  and  Croatia;  on  the  S.  Italy 
and  Switzerland  ;  and  on  the  W.  France,  the  Netherlands,  Hol- 
land, and  the  German  ocean. 

Historicai  Efiochs.  1.  The  state  of  savage  independence,  be- 
fore Germany  was  known  to  the  Romans.  2.  The  subjugation  by 
the  Roman  arras,  under  Gcrmanicus,  A.  D.  17.  3.  The  success- 
ful revolt  from  the  Roman  dominion  in  the  reign  of  Domitian.  4. 
The  conquest  of  Rome  by  the  Heruli,  who  made  Odoacer,  their 
srcneral,  king  of  Italy.  5.  The  establishment  of  the  empire,  by 
Charlemagne,  king  of  France.  He  conquered  both  Italy  and  Ger- 
many and  was  crowned  emperor  of  the  west,  A.  D.  800.  6.  The 
rejection  of  the  Carlovinian  line  in  880,  since  which  time  Germany 
has  been  considered  as  an  elective  empire.  After  much  conten- 
tion, Henry  duke  of  Saxony  was  chosen  in  918  ;  and  this  line  fall- 
ing in  lf.24,  was  followed  by  that  of  Franconia.  To  this  succeed- 
ed the  line  of  Swabia.  7.  The  interregnum  after  the  death  of 
Frederic  II.  which  lasted  23  years.  No  less  than  six  candidates 
claimed  the  cmijire,  all  of  whom  A\ere  destroyed.  8.  The  perma- 
nent annexation  of  the  imperial  dignity  to  the  family  of  Austria  in 
1440.  9.  The  reigii  of  Charles  V.  which  was  the  period  of  the 
Reformation.  10.  The  dissolution  of  the  Germanic  body  in  1809. 
Suice  that  time  the  western  and  middle  parts  of  Germany  have 
been  divided  into  many  large  and  small  kingdoms  and  principali- 
ties, nominally  ir,dependent,and  really  so  of  each  other,  but  actually 
Wider  coiTipleie  subjection  to  France.  Tiiese  now  constitute  what 
is  called  the  Confedeeatios  of  the  Rkinb. 


GERMANY.  4-57 

Religion.  The  religion  of  the  greater  p.irt  of  Germany  is  the 
Keformed,  first  introduced  into  Saxony  by  Lulher,  but  variously 
jnodified.  The  south,  hov^fever,  continue*  Firmly  attached  to  the 
Roman  Catholic  faith,  now  chiefly  supported  by  tlie  house  of  Aus- 
tria. 

JLiterature  and  Universities.  The  Germans  can  boast  of  a  great° 
er  number  of  useful  discoveries  and  inventions  in  arts  and  sciences, 
than  any  other  European  nation.  They  have  the  honor  of  discov- 
ering the  Art  of  Printing  ahoul;  tlie  year  1450.  It  would  be  easy 
to  enumerate  nearly  one  hundred  of  their  inventions,  without  fill- 
ing up  the  list  with  mere  improvements  in  machines  and  mechan- 
ical arts.  Literature  and  the  sciences  are  arrived  in  Germany  at 
a  very  high  de?-rce  of  eminence,  both  with  respect  to  universality 
and  solidity.  Within  these  fifiy  years  their  improvements  have 
been  rapid  and  astonisliing.  Universal  geography,  chronology, 
antiquities,  and  heraldry  owe  their  perfection  to  the  Germ.ans,  and 
the  science  of  Statistica  its  origin. 

The  number  of  readers  in  the  German  empire,  and  in  the  neigh" 
boring  countries,  especially  in  the  north  of  Europe,  where  the 
German  language  has  an  extensive  circulation,  is  large  enough  to 
encourage  the  publication  cf  no  less  than  5()0(j*  annual  liicrary 
productions,  of  which  two  thirds  are  original  pertbrmajicfs,  and 
«ne  third  translations  from  other  languages.  The  I)ook  trade  isnd 
where  equally  important;  at  the  Leipsic  fair,  books  are  sold  and 
exchanged  to  the  value  of  several  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

There  are  38  universities  in  Germany,  of  which  19  belong  to  the 
Protestants,  and  17  to  the  Roman  Catholics. 

GovernmenC.  The  government  was  that  of  an  aristocracy, 
which  elected  a  monarch,  v/ho  may  be  of  any  family.  Catholic, 
Lutheran,  or  Calvinist.  To  consider  the  constitution  at  length, 
■which  has  been  called  by  aGerman  writer  "  a  confuoion  supported 
by  Providence,"  would  be  foreign  to  the  nature  of  tliis  vvoik.— 
There  is  now  no  empire  of  Germany,  nor  are  the  states  connected 
by  any  common  bond. 

Po/iulation,  The  states  composing  the  confederation  of  the 
Rhine  have,  according  to  Ilassel,  a  population  of  16,927,600;  of 
whom  2,277,000  are  in  the  dutchy  of  Warsaw  ;  and  84,000  in  the 
district  of  Dantzic.  The  remainder  14,566,600  are  in  Germany, 
Of  the  pressnt  Prussian  population  3, 584, 000  are  Germans;  and 
of  that  of  Austria  8,660,000  ;  to  which,  ifthatof  ihe  dutchy  of  Hoi- 
stein  be  added,  the  v/hole  amount  of  the  population  of  Germany 
will  be,  according  to  Hassel,  27,140,600, 

Army.  The  whole  military  force  of  the  states,  composing  the 
confederation  of  the  Rhine,  is  stated,  by  Hassel,  at  205,700  men>^ 
of  whom  they  are  obliged  to  furnish  1 16,750  men  as  a  contingent 
to  the  French  emperor,  the  head  of  the  confederacy,  whenever  its 
principles  are  infringed  upon  by  oti.er  nations.     W^hat  proportion 

*  In  the  year  1792,  "  at  the  Easter  fair,  (there  is  another  not  so  productive  at 
Michaelmas)  weie  published  2227  new  books,  inclusive  of  468  continuations, 
194  new  editions,  and  154  translations,  most  of  them  in  the  Belle  Lettres,  Geog- 
raphy, History,  and  Physic."  Trofetsir  EMirg's  letter  to  the  auth»r. 
58 


458^  GERMANY. 

of  the  Austrian,  Prussian,  and  Danish  troops  is  derived  from  Ger- 
many, we  are  unable  to  state. 

Revenues.  The  whole  Kcvenue  of  the  confederation  of  the 
Hhine  is  stated  by  Hassel,  at  94,193,000  guilders.  The  Austrian 
revenues  derived  from  Germany  are  not  less  than  50,000,000  ;  the 
Prussian  20,500,000,  and  those  of  Holstein  about  1,300,000;  mak- 
ing a  total  of  165,793,000  guilders  annually  yielded  by  Germany. 

Face  of  the  Country.  To  the  N.  of  the  Mayn,  Germany  chiefly 
presents  wide  sandy  plains,  which  seem  as  if  they  had  been,  in  the 
first  ages  of  the  world,  overwhelmed  by  the  sea.  A  few  hills  be- 
gin to  appear  in  the  neighborhood  of  Minden  ;  and  in  the  south  of 
the  Hanoverian  dominions  arise  the  most  northern  mountains  of 
Germany,  those  of  Blocksberg,  and  others  in  the  Hartz.  To  the 
S.  W.  are  the  mountains  of  Hessia,  and  others,  extending  towards 
the  Rhine  :  while  on  the  east  the  rich  and  variegated  country  of 
Saxony,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  fertile  in  the  empii-e,  extends 
to  the  southern  limits  of  the  mountains  of  Erzgeberg,  abundant  in 
mines  and  singular  fossils. 

The  regions  to  the  south  of  the  Mayn  may  be  regarded  as  rath- 
er mountainous. 

Rivers.  Both  portions  are  v/atercd  by  numerous  and  important 
rivers.  In  the  north  the  Elbe  is  the  most  distinguished  stream, 
rising  in  the  Sudetic  mountains  of  Silesia;  and,  after  running  S. 
for  about  50  miles,  it  suddenly  assumes  its  destination  of  N.  W. 
receives  the  Bohemian  Muldo  and  Eger,  the  Mulda  and  Sala  of 
Saxony,  and  the  large  river  Havel  from  the  east,  and  enters  the 
sea  near  Cuxhaven,  after  a  comparative  course  of  more  than  500 
miles.  The  chief  citit s  on  the  banks  of  the  Elbe  are  Dresden, 
Meissen,  Wittenberg,  Magdeburg,  from  which  it  runs  almost  a 
solitary  stream  to  Hamburg.  The  tide  is  perceived  to  the  height 
of  22  miles  ;  and,  when  raised  by  the  north  wind,  middle  sized 
vessels  may  arrive  at  Hamburg,  but  they  are  in  general  obliged  to 
anchor  a  mile  below  the  city.* 

Not  far  to  the  W.  is  the  mouth  of  the  Weser,  which  first  re- 
ceives that  name  when  its  two  sources,  the  Werra  and  the  Fulda, 
join  near  Munden  in  the  principality  of  Calenburg,  about  16  miles 
S.  W.  of  Gotthigen.  The  principal  towns  on  this  river  are  Be- 
vern,  Minden,  and  Bremen.  The  inundations  of  the  Weser  are 
terrible,  the  adjacent  towns  and  villages  seeming  to  form  islands  in 
the  sea :  hence  the  shores  are  esteemed  unhealthy. 

The  Danube  has  already  been  described. 

The  Necker  is  a  tributary  stream  of  the  Rhine,  rising  in  the 
Black  Forest,  not  far  from,  the  Danube,  and  running  a  picturesque- 
course  of  about  150  miles  through  a  country  variegated  with  vine- 
yards. 

Lakes.     In  the  dutchyof  Mecklenburg,  the  lake  of  Plau  extends 
under  various  names  about  25  miles  in  length,  by   6  in  breadth. 
The  lake  of  Constance  is  the  most  distinguished  expanse  of  water, 
described  under   Svvisserland.     Next  is  the   sea  of  Bavaria,    14^ 
miles  by  5  in  size. 

*  Buschbg  vi.  16. 


GERMAN  STATES.  45^ 

Mountains.  The  most  northern  mountains  in  Germany  are 
those  of  the  Hartz.  These  rise  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre, 
the  highest  being  what  is  called  the  great  Biocksberg. 

But  the  most  celebrated  mountains,  in  that  part  of  Germany 
which  lies  to  the  N.  of  the  Mayn,  are  the  Erzgeberg,  or  Metallic 
mountains,  running  between  Bohemia  and  Saxony,  but  supplying 
both  countries  with  silver,  tin,  and  other  metals. 

Among  the  German  mountains  to  the  S.  of  the  Mayn,  may  be 
named  the  Bergstrass,  passing  from  near  Manheim  to  the  vicinity 
of  Frankfort,  the  mountains  of  Wurtemburg,  and  those  of  the  Black 
Forest,  whence  the  source  of  the  Danube. 

The  southeast  of  this  portion  of  Germany  is  bounded  by  the  high 
mountains  of  Bavaria  and  Salzia  or  Salzburg  ;  being  branches  of 
the  Swiss  Alps. 

-GERMANIC  STATES. 

THE  constitution  of  the  Germanic  body,  the  only  semblance  of 
union  between  its  various  sovereignties,  has  lately  been  dissolved ; 
but  its  numei'ous  divisions  still  remain  ;  and  the  same  disunion 
will  probably  prevail,  until  its  various  states  are  imited  under  a 
common  government.  Of  these  Austria  and  Prussia  claim  sepa- 
rate heads.  The  others  will  be  described  under  the  two  following 
divisions. 


•GERMAN  STATES  NORTH  OF  THE  MAYN. 


1.  THE  kingdom  of  Saxony  is  the  most  powerful  state  in  this 
ilivision  of  Germany.  It  is  one  of  the  modern  kingdoms,  having 
been  merely  an  electorate,  till  the  peace  of  Tilsit,  when  it  received 
a  large  addition  from  Prussian  Poland,  called  the  dutchy  of  War- 
saw. It  now  comprises  56,970  square  miles,  with  a  population  of 
4,363,000. 

Saxony  Proper,  lies  N.  W.  and  N.  of  Bohemia  and  reaches  from 
the  head  of  the  Weser,  to  that  of  the  Oder.  It  is  about  220  milcK 
from  E.  to  W.  and  130  from  N.  to  S.  The  kint^dom  comprises 
the  following  territories. 

1.  Old  Saxony,  containing  11,485  square  miles,  and  1,612,000 
inhabitants,  and  divided  into  1 1  counties. 

2:  Margrave  of  I.ausitz,  or  Lusatia,  containing  4915  square 
miles,  and  474,000  inhabitants  ;  and  divided  into  Upper  Lusatia, 
and  Lower  Lusatia,  with  Korbus. 

3.  Dutchy  of  Wai'saw,  containing  40,570  square  miles,  2,277,000 
inhabitants  ;  and  divided  into  6  departments. 

Posen  Warsaw  Kalwary 

New  Silesia  Plock  Bromburg 

This  dutchy  is  in  the  western  part  of  Poland,  and  constitutes  the 
great  part  of  the  acquisitions  of  Prussia,  in  the  division  of  that 
kingdom.    The  possessions  of  Prussia  entirely  separate  this  dutchw 


4m  GEPvMAN  STATES, 

from  Lusatia.  The  distance  across,  however,  in  the  narrpnvest 
place,  is  not  more  tl.an  40  miles.  And  in  the  treaty  of  Tilsit,  a 
comniunicaiion  was  stipulated  for  by  means  of  a  militaiy  road. 

The  religion  of  the  electorate  is  the  protestant,  which  was  here 
introduced  by  Luther  ;  and  there  are  two  bishoprics,  Merseberg 
and  Naumburg.  That  of  the  dulchy  is  the  catholic.  The  govern- 
ment is  nearly  absolute,  but  conducted  with  moderation  through 
different  councils.  The  army  is  65,000,  of  whom  30,000  are  rais- 
ed in  the  the  dutchy  of  Warsaw.  The  contingent  of  Saxony,  as 
a  member  of  the  confederation  of  the  Rhine,  is  20,000  men.  The 
revenue  is  stated  by  Hassel  at  17,500,000  guilders,  the  expenditure 
at  16,750,000,  and  the  debt  at  35,000,000.  The  credit  of  Saxony 
lias  always  been  high. 

The  language  and  literature  of  Saxony  are  the  most  distin- 
guished in  all  Germany,  most  of  the  writers  who  have  refined  the 
language  having  been  born,  or  having  resided  in  this  country. 
Leipsig  is  a  celebrated  mart  of  German  literature.  There  are  many- 
schools,  colleges,  and  academies  ;  among  the  latter,  the  mhier- 
alogic  academy  of  Freyberg,  instituted  in  1765,  is  esteemed  the 
leading  school  of  that  science.  Dresden,  the  capital,  is  built  on 
the  Elbe  where  the  Weissesitz  falls  into  it.  It  is  one  of  the  hand- 
somest towns  in  Europe.  It  contains  61  streets,  40  public  ochoolsj 
and  18  churches.  In  1S03  the  population  amounted  to  49,094i> 
and  the  dwelling-houses  to  2644. 

Warsaw,  the  former  capital  of  Poland,  is  built  upon  the  Vistula^ 
partly  on  a  plain  and  partly  on  a  gentle  ascent  rising  from  the 
river.  The  town  is  very  extensive,  and  wears  a  melancholy  ap- 
pearance. The  palaces  are  numerous  and  splendid,  but  the  great 
body  of  the  houses  are  mean  wooden  hovels.  Population  in  1803^ 
64,421  ;   lat.  52  14  2,3  N. 

Leipsig  stands  on  the  Plisse,  in  a  pleasant  fertile  plain.  Its 
university,  founded  in  1409,  has  been  one  ot  the  most  celebrated  in 
Europe.  There  are  8  Lutheran  churches,  I  Calvinistic,  and  I 
Catholic.  Three  annual  fairs  are  held  here,  and  the  commerce  is 
very  extensive.     Inhabitants,  in  1801,30,796;  lat.  5  1  20  15  N. 

II.  The  next  kingdom  in  size  is  that  of  Westphalia.  It  con- 
tains 15,120  square  miles.  Its  situation  is  nearly  central  in  this 
part  of  Germany.  The  Saale,  and  the  Elbe,  on  the  E-  separate  it 
from  Saxony  and  Prussia.  On  the  West  it  reaches  to  the  Ems. 
It  is  formed  out  of  the  southern  part  of  the  circle  of  Lower  Sax- 
ony, and  the  eastern  part  of  the  circle  of  Westphalia.  It  is  di? 
vided  into  8  departments,  which  are  subdivided  into  27  districts, 
I.      Elb«,  !II.  Harze, 

1.  Magdeburg  Heiligcnstadt 

2.  Newhalden  Drudcnstadt 

3.  Stendal  Nordhauseii 

4.  Salzwedel  Osterode 
II.      Fulda,                             IV.  Leine, 

■    1.  Cassel  Gottingen 

2.  Hoxter  Einbeck 

Paderbon^ 


GERMAN  STATES.  46V 

V.   Oker,  VII.  Werra, 

Brunswick  Marburg 

Helmstadt  Hersfield 

Hiidcsheim  Eschwegc 

Goslar  VIII.  Wescr, 

VI    Saaic,  Osnaburg 

Halberstadt  Minden 

Blankenburg  Bieicficld 

Hable  Bint,cln 

The  dcpartmcnis  are  named  from  the  rivers  on  which  they  lie. 
The  kinguoni:  in  18ur,  contained  1,941,561  inhabitants,  202  cities,, 
81  market  towns,  426  i  villages  and  hamlets,  and  322,000  houses. 
The  revenue  is  14,430,502  guilders  ;  the  expenditure  the  same  ; 
and  the  debt  40,000,000  guilders.  The  army  consists  of  55,000 
men.     Its  contingent  is  25,000  men. 

Westpiialia  was  formed  into  a  kingdom  immediately  after  the 
Treaty  of  Tilsit,  in  1807.  All  the  territories  of  Piussia,  weht  of 
the  Elbe,  were  allotted  to  it,  together  with  various  small  princi- 
palities. Jerome  Bonaparte  was  made  king  ;  but  for  reasons  of 
state,  resigned  his  kingdom  in  181 1. 

Magdeburg,  the  capital  lies  on  the  Elbe  ;  and  is  a  large,  beau- 
tiful, wealthy  and  strongly  fortified  city.  Its  trade  is  extensive,  and 
its  manufactures  numerous,  particularly  of  woollens,  silks,  cottons, 
linen,  stockings,  hats,  gloves,  tobacco  and  snuff.  In  1802  it  con- 
tained 32,013  inhabitants. 

Cassel,  in  51  19  20  N.  is  equally  divided  by  the  Fulda,  It  was 
the  capital  of  the  Landgrave  ofHesse-Cassel  before  he  w^as  driven 
from  his  dominions.     In  1800  it  contained  18,450  inhabitants. 

Brunswick,  on  the  Ocker,  contained  in  1804,  31,714  inhabitants. 
It  Avas  one  of  the  Hanse  Towns. 

Hildesheim,  also  one  of  the  Hanse  Towns,  contained  in  1802, 
11,108  inhabitants. 

Gottingen  is  in  a  spacious,  fertile  valley,  on  a  branch  of  the 
Leine,  and  its  university  has  been  much  celebrated,  and  was  found- 
ed by  George  II.  in  1734.     It  had,  in  1807,  8914  inhabitants. 

III.  The  Hanoverian  States  bound  the  kingdom  of  Westphalia, 
on  the  N.  W.  Since  their  subjugation  by  France,  they  have  not 
been  formed  into  a  distinct  government,  but  are  merely  colonics 
©f  that  country.     They  consist  of  the  following  territories. 

1.  Principality  of  Calenburg         5.  Dutchy  of  Bremen 

2.  Principality  of  Luenburg  6.  Principality  of  Verden 

3.  Principality  of  Lauenburg       7.  County  of  Hoya 

4.  District  of  Hadeln  8.  County  of  Diepholz. 
They  extend  in  length  from  E.  to  W.  about  180  miles,  and  from 

N.  to  S.  100.     Their  whole  contents  is  10,132  square  miles,  and 
their  population  629,000. 

The  religion  is  the  Lutheran.  The  goverament  was  conducted 
by  a  council  of  regency.  The  revenue  is  now  3,600,000  guilders, 
which  is  paid  into  the  treasury  of  France.  The  literature  of  this 
country  has  deserved  considerable  applause,  since  the  institution 
©f  the  university  of  Gottingen  by  George  II.    It  is  now  in  the  king- 


4.6^  GERMAN  STATES. 

dom  of  Westphalia.  The  chief  city  is  Hanover,  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  principality  of  Calcnburg,  situated  on  the  river  Leine, 
•amidst  numerous  gardens  and  villas.  Tliis  city  is  slightly  fortifi- 
ed, containing  21,360  inhabitants. 

IV.  The  House  Mecklenburg.  The  territories  of  this  fam- 
ily lie  between  Hanover  on  the  S.  W.  and  Swedish  Pomerania  on 
ihe  N.  E.  The  kingdonr*  of  Westphaiia  borders  on  the  S.  The 
country  is  divided  in  two  dutchies,  that  of  Meckleuburg-Schwerin, 
and  that  of  Mecklenburg-Strclitz.  The  former  contains  7000 
square  miles,  290,000  inhabitants,  furnishes  a  revenue  of  l,'800jOOO 
guilders,  and  an  army  of  1800  men  ;  the  latter  contains  800  square 
miles,  66,000  inhabitants,  and  yields  a  revenue  of  525,000  guilders. 
The  contingent  furnished  by  both  is  1900  men.  The  whole  coun- 
try is  full  of  lakes,  heaths,  and  marshes,  and  the  soil  being  sandy, 
produces  little,  except  rye  and  oats.  The  states,  consisting  of 
nobility  and  burgesses,  are  assembled  yearly  to  regulate  the  taxa- 
tion. The  religion  is  the  Lutheran,  with  six  superintendents,  and 
an  university  at  Rostock.  Rostock,  the  chief  town,  is  built  on  a 
harbor  formed  by  the  mouth  of  the  Warne.  The  town  contained 
in  1803,  13,736  inhabitants.  Its  commerce  is  valuable.  Schweria 
is  built  on  a  beautiful  lake,  called  Schwerin-Sea,  through  which 
runs  the  Eklc.  Inhabitants  9801.  Wis  mar,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Elde,  is  well  fortified  ;  contains  6  churches,  and  6254  inhabitants. 

V.  The  grand  dutchy  of  Berg  reaches  from  the  Lahn  to  Hol- 
land, and  from  the  Rhine  to  the  kingdom  of  Westphalia.  It  is 
composed  of 

1.  The  dutchy  of  Ecrg  5.  The  county  of  Lingen 

2.  The  dutchy  of  Clcves  6.  The  county  of  Tecklenburg 

3.  The  dutchy  of  Munster        7.  The  county  of  Dortmund, 

4.  The  county  of  Mark  beside  several  lordships. 
It  contains  6900  square   miles,  and  922,649  inhabitants,   with  a 

revenue  of  3,994,000  guilders,  an  army  of  8000,  and  a  contingent 
of  5000. 

VI.  The  grand  dutchy  of  Hesse  consists  of  1,  The  principality 
of  Starkenburg,  which  lies  S.  of  the  Mayn  on  the  Rhine.  2,  The 
principality  of  Upper  Hesse,  and  3,  The  dutchy  of  Westphalia. 
It  has  the  grand  dutcliy  of  Wirzburg  on  the  S.  that  of  Berg  on  the 
W.  the  kingdom  of  Westphalia  on  the  N.  and  that  of  Saxony  on 
the  E.  It  covers  an  extent  of  4380  square  miles,  has  a  popula- 
tion of  539,000,  a  revenue  of  3,500,000  guilders,  an  army  of  8000, 
and  a  contingent  of  5000.  The  country  is  generally  mountainous  ; 
but  there  are  many  pleasant  vales,  fertile  in  corn  and  pasturage. 
The  religion  is  the  Lutheran.  Darmstadt,  in  Starkenburg,  is  the 
capita!,  and  contained,  in  1805,  1 1,350  inhabitants.  The  Hessians 
have  been  much  employed  as  mercenary  soldiers,  and  were  hired 
by  the  British  in  the  American  War. 

Vn.  The  house  of  Saxe.  The  territories  of  this  family  com- 
pose five  dutchies  : 

Saxe-Weimar  Saxe-Hildburghausen 

Saxe-Gotha  Saxe-Coburg. 

Saxe-iVIeinungen 


GERMAN  STATES.  46S 

'^hey  lie  between  the  grand  dutchy  of  Wurtzburg,  on  the  S.  and 
the  house  of  Schwarzburg,  on  the  N.  and  cover  an  extent  of  3045 
square  miles.  The  population  is  438,000  ;  revenues  3,226,000 
guilders  ;  army  3400  ;  contingent  2800  men.  Gotha,  the  chief 
town,  contained,  in  1805,  12,400  inhabitants;  Altcnburg,  9484  in- 
habitants ;  Weimar,  in  1808,  8500  inhabitants  ;  and  Coburg  7096 
inhabitants. 

VIII.  The  dutchy  of  Oldenburg  is  divided  into  the  districts  of 
Oldenburg  Wuhrden  Vechta 
Delmenhorst         Warcl                   Kloppenbuvg 

and  Wildcshausen, 
and  contains  2165   square  miles,  and    140,000  inhabitants.     It  lies 
W.  of  the  Weser.     The  soil  is  fertile  in  pasturage.     The  revenue 
is  720,000  guilders,  and  the  army  1000  men.     Oldenburg,  the  cap- 
ital, contained,  in  1800,  4500  inhabitants. 

IX.  The  house  of  Nassau  comprises  the  dutchy  of  Usingen  and 
the  principality  of  Weilburg,  beside  several  petty  lordships.  It 
is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  Mayn,  and  contains  2270  square 
miles,  and  272,000  inhabitants.  The  revenue  is  1,757,000  guild- 
ers ;  the  army  3000  n^en,  and  the  contingent  1680.  The  country 
is  mountainous,  yet  not  without  fine  arable  and  meadov/  lands. 
Wisbader  contains  only  3500  inhabitants. 

X.  House  of  Anhalt.  The  territories  of  this  family,  one  of  the 
most  illustrious  in  Germany,  are  the  dutchies  of  Dessau,  Bemburg, 
and  Cothen,  containing  1052  square  miles,  and  124,000  inhab- 
itants. The  revenue  is  1,190,000  gailders,  and  the  contingent 
800  men.  The  religion  is  Calvinism.  The  soil  is  good  and  fer- 
tile in  grain.  Dessau,  on  the  Muklau,  near  its  ijiouth,  contained 
in  1802,  9220  inhabitants.     Lat.  51  49. 

XI.  The  dutchy  of  Aremberg  lies  round  the  lower  part  of  the 
river  Ems,  comprising  the  counties  of  Recklinghausen  and  Mep- 
pen,  and  the  lordship  of  Dulmen.  It  contains  1 107  square  miles, 
and  59,000  inhabitants  ;  and  yields  a  revenue  of  300,000  guilders, 
and  a  contingent  of  379  men^  The  town  of  Meppen,  on  the  Ems, 
contains  3000  inhabitants. 

XII.  The  territories  of  the  house  of  Schwarzburg  are  the 
principalities  of  Sondershausen,  and  Rudolstadt.  The  extent  is 
986  square  miles ;  the  population  1 14,000  ;  the  revenue  450,000  - 
the  contingent  650  men  ;  Sondershausen  on  the  Unstrutt,  contains 
4000  inhabitants. 

XIII.  The  territories  of  the  house  of  Lippe  lie  N.  of  Paderborn» 
amd  S.  of  the  Weser,  composing  the  principality  of  Detmold,  and 
the  county  of  Schauenburg,  and  containing  942  square  miles,  and 
95,000  inhabitants.  The  revenue  is  35,000  guilders  ;  the  contin- 
gent 650  men. 

XIV.  The  New  Hanseatic  League. 

1    Hamburp;     J  ^32  square  miles  ;    119,000   inhabitants;  reve-- 
^     ^  nue  1,500,000  guilders  ;  contingent    1800  men. 
3    Lubec  I  197  square  miles;  45,000  inhabitants  3  revenue 

1  400,000  guilders. 


4iS4  GERMAN  STATES. 

„    -p  5  ^8  square  miles  ;   50,000  inhabitants  ;  revehii^ 

-Dremen        j  400,000  guilders  ;  contingent  500  men. 

Dantzic  in         C  *^^  square  miles  ;  84,000  inhabitants  ;  revenue 

Poland  ^  700,000  guilders. 

These  territories  were  called  by  the  French  government,  the 
New  Hanseatic  League,  for  want  of  a  better  name.  Each  district 
includes  the  city,  and  a  part  of  the  adjoining  country. 

Hamburg  is  the  third  city  in  Germany,  and  contained,  in  1807, 
102,000  inhabitants.  It  was  fortified  by  Charlemagne  A.  D.  808. 
The  Elbe  is  here  including  the  islands,  near  a  mile  broad.  It  lies 
in  53  34  32  N.  lat, 

Lubec  stands  on  the  Trave.     It  contains  32,000  inhabitants. 

Bremen,  on  ihe  Wcser,  contains  42,000  inhabitants. 

Dantzic,  on  the  Vistula,  4  miles  from  the  Bailie,  in  1804  contain- 
ed 42,273  inhabitants. 

XV.  The  house  of  Salm,  north  of  the  Lippe,  on  the  frontiers  of 
Holland.  Extent  680  square  miles  ;  population  56,000  ;  revenue 
230,000  guilders  ;  contingent  323  men. 

XVI.  The  territories  of  the  house  of  keussen  in  the  southern 
part  of  Upper  Saxony.  Extent  560  square  miles  ;  inhabitants 
82,000  ;  revenue  4SiO,000  guilders  ;  contingent  450  men.  Graitz 
on  the  Elsler,  with  4500  inhabitants,  is  the  capital. 

XVII.  The  principality  of  Waldec,  west  of  Hesse,  containing 
475  square  miles,  and  48,000  inhabitants.  Its  revenue  is  375,000 
guilders,  and  its  contingent  400  men. 

XVIII.  The  principality  of  Isenberg  N.  E.  of  Frankfort  on  the 
^layn,  containing  251  square  miles  and  43,000  inhabitants.  Reve-^ 
nues  260,000  guilders  ;  contingent  291  men. 

Beside  Hanover,  already  described,  there  are  five  other  district* 
north  of  the  Mayn,  which  are  provinces  of  France.  1.  Swedish 
Pomerania,  including  the  island  of  Rugen,  with  Mecklenburg  on 
the  S.  W.  and  Saxony  on  the  S.  It  contains  1446  square  miles, 
and  116,000  inhabitants.  The  contribution  is  400,000  guilders. 
2.  The  principality  of  Fulda,  N.  of  Wurzburg,  712  square  miles  ; 
91,000  inhabitants;  revenue,  600,000  guilders.  3.  County  of 
Hanau,  E.  of  Frankfort  on  the  Mayn,  482  square  miles  ;  66,000 
inhabitants  ;  revenue  820,000  guilders.  4.  Principality  of  Erfurt 
■vvith  Blackenheyn,  in  Thuringia  ;  square  miles  350  ;  population 
51,000  ;  revenue  300,000  guilders.  5.  County  of  Catzenelnebogen 
on  the  Rhine  and  the  Mayn;  square  miles  137;  inhabitants 
13,000  ;  revenue  80,000  guilders. 

GERMANY  SOUTH  OF  THE  MAYN. 

THERE  are  two  kingdoms  also  in  this  part  of  Germany,  both 
of  recent  origin  ;  but  the  smaller  states  are  much  less  numerous 
than  in  the  other. 

I.  The  kingdom  of  Bavaria  includes,  the  old  electorate  of  Bava- 
ria, the  principp.1  part  of  Franconia,  one  third  of  Swabia,  and  the 
whole  of  the  Tyrol.  Its  length,  is  300  miles.  It  is  bounded  E. 
bv  Bohemia  and  A\istria  :    S.  by  Venice  ;    W.  by  Swisserland, 


GERMAN  STATES.  465 

^r.den,  and  Wurtcmburg  ;  N.  by  the  Mayn,  and  Bayreuth.  It 
contains  35,370  square  miles,  and  is  divided  into  15  circles,  which 
arc  named  from  the  rivers  on  which  they  lie. 

The  population  of  Bavaria,  in  1807,  was  3,231,570  ;  and  the  rev- 
enue 17,373,080  i^uilders.  Tlie  debt,  in  1808,  was  80,000,000  guild- 
ers. The  army  35,8  J4.  The  contint^ent  3o,000  men.  Relii^ion,  the 
Roman  catholic,  with  some  Lutherans.  The  eastern  part  of  Bavaria 
is  plain  and  fertile;  the  western  mountainous  and  forested,  and  inter- 
spersed with  large  and  small  lakes.  The  Tyrol  is  ahnost  made 
up  of  ranges  of  mountains,  called  the  Tyrolese  Alps.  Their 
direction  is  N  E.  and  S.  W.  The  chief  rivers  of  this  kingdom 
are  the  Danube,  the  Inn,  tlie  Iser,  the  Lech,  the  fsab,  and,  in  the 
Tyrol,  the  Adige.  The  lake  of  Constance  forms  part  of  the  west- 
ern boundary. 

Munich,  the  capital,  stands  upon  the  Iser,  in  lat.  48  8  20  N".  It 
is  one  of  the  handsomest  cities  ia  Germany,  and  lately  contained 
48,740  inhabitants. 

Nurcmburg  contains  30,000  inhabitants.  It  stands  on  the  Peg- 
nitz,  and  is  environed  witli  double  walls. 

Augsburg,  between  the  Lech,  and  the  Wertach,  in  lat.  43  21  41 
N.  is  in  a  fertile  and  deligntful  country,  and  is  surrounded  with 
ramparts,  walls,  and  ditches.  It  contained,  in  1807,  28,534  in- 
babitants. 

II.  The  kingdom  of  Wurtemburg,  in  the  central  part  of  Swa- 
bia,  reaches  from  the  Taxt,  a  branch  of  the  Neckar,  to  within  20 
miles  of  the  lake  of  Constance,  about  120  miles  in  length,  and 
contains  7220  square  miles.  Bavaria  lies  on  the  E.  ;  the  same 
and  Baden  lies  on  the  S.  and  W.  ;  and  the  Taxt  and  the  Neckar 
on  the  N.  The  population  of  the  kingdom,  in  1807,  was  1,181,372  ; 
the  revenue  8,000,000  guilders,  and  the  debt  25,000,000.  The 
army  was  20,000  men,  and  the  contingent  12,000.  The  soil  is  very 
fertile.  The  religion  is  the  Lutheran,  with  some  Calvinists,  and 
some  colonies  of  the  Vaudois.  The  church  is  ruled  by  four  ab- 
bots and  38  deans.  Education  and  ecclesiastical  studies  are  favor- 
ed by  laudable  inslituiioiis,  particularly  the  seminaries  of  Tubin- 
gen and  Stutgard.  This  last  is  the  chief  town,  and  contained,  in 
1808,  22,680  inhabuants. 

III.  The  grand  dutchy  of  Baden,  has  the  kingdoms  of  Wurtem- 
berg  and  Bavaria  on  the  E.  ;  the  lake  of  Constance  and  the  Rliine, 
•which  divide  it  from  Swisserland,  on  the  S.  the  Rhine  on  the  W, 
and  on  the  N.  by  Hesse,  and  the  Mayn.  The  number  of  square 
miles  is  6030.  The  relit'ion  is  the  Lucheran.  The  population  in 
1807  was  922,649.  In  1808,  the  revenue  was  2,953,936  guilders, 
the  expenditure  3,472,765  ;  and  the  debt  18,000,000.  The  army 
contains  12,000  troops,  and  the  contingent  8000.  Manheim,  the 
chief  town,  in  1800  had  18.818  inhabitants.  It  is  on  the  Neckar 
near  its  mouth,  and  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Elector  Pala. 
tine.     It  is  strongly  fortified. 

Friburg  contains  7916  inhabitants  and  is  the  scat  of  a  university. 

IV.  The  grand  dutchy  of  Wurtzlmrg   lies  on  both  sides  of  the 
Mayn,  contains  2126  square  miles,  and  SlljQOO  inhabitants.     The 

59 


466-  AUSTRIA. 

revenue,  is/2,800,000  guilders.  The  debt,  in  1802,  was  3,954,750: 
The  armi/  is  2500  men,  and  the  contingent  2000.  Wurtzburg, 
the  capi/al,  is  on  the  Mayn,  well  fortified,  containing  21,380  in- 
habitants. 

V.  The  United  Principalities  coimpose  a  state  similar  to  the 
New  Hanse-Towns,  and  consist  of  the  Principalities  of  Ratisbon, 
on  the  Danube,  in  the  heart  of  Bavaria,  containing-  90  square  miles, 
52,200  inliabitants,  and  Aschaffenburg  on  the  Mayn,  containing 
460  square  miles,  and  in  1802,  67,?  1 1  inhabitants  ;  of  the  county 
of  Wezlar  on  the  Lahn,  containing  1 1  square  miles,  and  4988  in- 
habitants ;  and  of  the  district  of  Frankfot  l  on  the  Mayn,  contain- 
ing 88  square  miles,  and  52,000  inhabitants  :  besides  three  hered- 
itary lordships  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Mayn,  contahiing  203 
square  miles,  and  18,137  inhabitants.  The  whole  revenue  is 
1,800,000  gniiders  ;  the  army  1500  men. 

The  city  of  Ratisbon,  on  the  Danube,  an  ancient  commercial 
town,  was  till  lately  the  seat  of  the  diet  cf  the  empire.  It  contains 
22,000  inhabitants. 

Frankfort-on-thc-Mayn,  so  called  to  distinguish  it  from  Frank- 
fort-on-the-Odcr,  is  strongly  foriined,  contains  37,000  inhabitants. 
Two  fairs  are  held  here  annually,  and  the  trade  is  considerable. 

VI.  The  little  principalities  of  Lcyen  and  Liechtenstein,  on 
the  Rhine,  contain,  together,  108  square  miles,  and  9600  inhab- 
itants. 

Here  ought  also  to  be  mentioned  the  principality  of  Bayreuth, 
north  of  Bavaria,  between  Wurtzburg  and  Bohemia,  containing 
1225  square  miles,  and  223,000  inhabitants  ;'  and  yielding  a  tribute 
of  900,000  guilders.  Btiyreuth,  the  capital,  contains  10,000  in- 
habitants. 


AUSTRIA. 

TKE  head  of  the  house,  of  Austria,  was  styled,  till  1809,  em- 
pei'or  of  Germany,  and  king  of  Bohemia  and  Hungary.  After 
the  termination  of  the  unfortunate  campaign  of  that  year,  the  con- 
stitution of  the  Germanic  body  was  dissolved,  and  Francis  II.  not- 
only  lost  a  part  of  his  own  'acrtdiiary  dominions  ;  but  also  resign- 
ed the  iTuperial  crown  of  Germany.  His  remaining  territories, 
however,  were  at  that  time  furmed  into  an  empire,  called  the  Em- 
PIRF.  OF  AvsTuiA  ;  and,  as  its  h;;rcditary  sovereign,  he  still  pos- 
sesses sufficient  power  to  claim  the  third  place  among  the  sove- 
reigns of  tlic  conlineni. 

Exte?u.  The  iengtl«  of  Austria,  from  the  eastern  limits  of 
Transylvania,  to  the  western  of  Carinthia,  is  620  miles  ;  the 
breadth,  from  the  Bug,  which  separates  Gallicla  from  the  grand 
dutchy  of  Warsaw,  to  the  Save,  the  frontier  of  Turkey,  is  520. 
The  area  is  given  in  the  table. 

Boundaries.     Bounded  W.  by  Bavaria  and  Saxony  ;  N.  by  Prus 
sla  jvnd  Saxony  ;  E.  by  Russia ;  S.  by  Turkey,  the  Adriatic,  Istj'ic 


AUSTRIA.  4&r 

«nd  Bavaria.  Austria  touches  on  the  Adriatic  in  two  places.  The 
^territory  of  Trieste  has  a  little  line  of  seacoast ;  and  Carniola,  east 
of  Istcra,  has  a  greater  extent.  _   . 

Divisions.     Thepiincipai  divisions  of  the  Austrian  dominions 
arc. 


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46S  AUSTRIA. 

Aus'aia  also  possessed,  before  the  campaign  of  1805, 

Square  Miles.         Population 

1.  The  Tyrol,  lu,l54  620,8^4 

2.  Part  of  Bavaria  >  t7o-7i 

E.  of  the  Inn,    5  ^^'^^^ 

3.  Part  of  Svvabia,  2^)3,433 

4.  Dalmatia,  7,230              296,415 

5.  Venetian  territories,  9,349           1,630,179 

The  three  first  are  now  litlaehed  to  Bavaria.  Dalmatia  and  th:, 
territories  of  Venice,  under  the  name  of  East  Lombardy,  form  t\i  c 
great  divisions  of  the  kingdom  of  Italy.  At  the  commencement  oC 
the  French  revolution  Austria  also  possessed  Lombardy,  or  the 
dutchies  of  Milan  and  Mantua;  and  the  Austiian  Netherlands, 
These  last  are  now  an  integral  part  of  France.  Milan  and  Man- 
tua belong  to  the  itingdom  of  Italy. 

Historical  Epochs.  1.  By  the  death  of  the  emperor  Charles  VL 
on  the  20th  October,  1740,  without  male  i^sue,  the  house  of  Aus-. 
tria  became  extinct.  The  elector  of  Bavaria  seized  the  kingdom 
of  Bohemia,  and  was  elected  emperor  in  1742,  but  died  in  1745. 

2.  Francis  of  Lorrain,  son  of  Leopold  duke  oi  Lorrain,  having 
married  Maria  Theresa,  daughter  of  the  emperor  Charles  VI. 
succeeded  to  the  Austrian  dominions,  which  continue  to  be  held 
by  his  descendants.  In  1745  he  was  elected  emptror,  and  his  suc- 
<;essors  have  enjoyed  the  imperial  crown,  as  if  hereditary. 

3.  The  reign   of  the   emperor   Joseph   II.  a  beneficent  but  im- 
petuous prince,  whose   grand  designs  of  reformation   were  frus-  " 
trated  by  his  ignorance  of  the  inveteracy  of  habits  and  prejudices, 
■which  must  ever  be  considered  in  a  due  estimate  of  hurnan  af- 
fairs. 

4.  The  formation  of  the  Austrian  States  into  an  empire  on  the 
dissolution  of  the  Germanic  body  in  1809. 

Religion.  The  established  religion  of  the  monarchy  is  the  Ro- 
man Catholic.  Formerly  no  others  were  tolerated.  The  later 
emperors  have  wisely  encouraged  the  settlement  ot  Protestants. 
Various  sects  are  extensively  spread  over  Bohemia  and  Moravia  ;^ 
and  Lutherans  are  found  even  in  Vienna.  In  Hungary  the  Pro- 
testants and  Greeks  are  thought  to  constitute  a  majority  of  the  in- 
habitants ;  though  the  Catholic  religion  is  also  there  establishedo 
In  Transylvania  Catholics,  Lutherans,  Calvinists,  Socinians,  Ari- 
ans,  Greeks,  Mahometans,  enjoy  their  several  religions  The 
Mahometans  are  principally  in  the  eastern  parts.  The  Slavoni- 
ans are  zealous  Catholics,  though  Greeks  and  Jews  are  tolerated. 
This  is  equally  true  of  the  Croatiaris. 

Government.  In  1  S09  Austria  was  formed  into  an  hereditary 
empire,  with  a  power  nearly  absolute,  vested  in  the  sovereign.  It 
is  divided  into  12  circles,  in  each  of  which  are  tv.o  head  men,  ap- 
pointed annUially  for  the  administration  of  government. 

Bohemia  and  Hungary  are  hereditary  kingdoms.  Transylvania 
lias  its  states.  Croatia  and  Slavonia  constitute  a  viceroyalty-  The 
Transylvanians,  Slavonians,  and  Croats,  have  alv/ays  been  charac- 
terized by  a  love  of  freedom,  and  an  impatience  of  control  j    and, 


AUSTRIA.  469 

The  emperor  luis  found  his  interest  in  letting-  them  live  in  their  own 
manner. 

Pufiulation.  Hassel  estinaates  the  population  of  the  Austrian 
dominions  in  1809  at  23,570,000. 

Jrmy.  The  Austrian  army  in  1809,  is  stated  by  Hassel  at 
345,79  I  men. 

This  ctiny  was  under  the  command  of  9  field  marshals,  21  mas- 
ters of  ordnance,  11  gent-ials  of  cavalry,  \-2b  field  marshal  lieu- 
tenaiiis,  and  :^72  major  generals. 

JVuvy.  Austria  lias  a  few  armed  vessels  in  the  harbor  of 
Trieste,  and  a  fleet  of  flat  bottomed  vessels  on  the  Danube. 

Jicvfuuc^^  ExJtendHure,  and  jYatiortal  Debt.  The  amount  of  the 
ordhia-y  revenue,  in  1809,  was  104,000,000  guilckts  ;  of  wliich 
19,000,bci0  were  raised  fi'om  the  royal  donjuins,  48,Oi0,(J00  from 
the  impost,  and  o7.0(jO,000  fiom  the  land,  poll,  and  circulation 
taxes.  The  royai  domains,  in  1803,  were  estimated  at  35';,000,000  j, 
and  the  ecclesiasiical  domains  at  80,000,000. 

This  revenue,  exclusive  of  that  iroiu  the  royal  domains,  was 
proportioned  nearly  as  ioiiows  ;  from  the 

Hereditary  Slates  43,000,000 

Gallicia  18,000,000 

Hungarian  States  24,000,000 

85,000,000 

The  extraordinary  revenue  is  from  1 2  to  i  6,000,000. 

The  expenditure  is  from  105  to  I  10,000,000. 

The  national  debt  is  estimated  at  from  1,200  to  1,600,000,000,  in- 
cluding from  800  to  1,000,000,000  guilders  hi  paper  nioney,  capa- 
ble of  being  redeemed  at  half  its  nominal  value.  The  circuialing 
specie  amounts  to  from  100  to  12  .1,000,000  guilders. 

Manners  and  Cusfo?ns.  The  Austrian  manneis  are  cold,  but 
civil  ;  the  women  elegant,  but  devoid  of  mental  accomplibhnients. 
The  youth  of  rank  are  commonly  ignorant,  and  of  couise  haughty, 
being  entire  strangers  to  the  cultivation  of  mind,  and  condescen- 
sion of  manners,  to  be  found  among  the  superior  ranks  of  some 
other  countries.  An  Austrian  nobleman  or  gentlemen  is  rarely 
seen  to  read,  and  hence  polite  literature  is  almost  unknown  and 
uncultivated.  The  lower  orders  arc  little  addicted  lo  crimes  or 
vices,  and  punishments  are  rare  :  robberies  are  seldom  couitniued, 
and  murder  little  known. 

The  Hungarians  remain  a  spirited  people,  and  affect  to  despise 
their  masters.  Tlieir  dress  consists  of  a  tight  vest,  mamle,  and 
furred  cap,  and  is  graceful  ;  and  the  whiskers  add  a  military 
ferocity  to  their  appearance.  'I'he  Transylvanians  are  a  medley  (;f 
several  different  nations,  and  characterized  by  nothing  but  their 
savage  manners,  and  their  impatience  of  restraint.  The  Slavon- 
ians and  Croatians  are  equally  lawless. 

Langauge.  The  languages  spoken  in  these  aggregated  domin- 
ions are  numerous  and  discrepant.  Among  people  of  rank  at 
Vienna,  the  French  is  prevalent. 

Literature.     The  causes  which  have  retarded  the  progress  of 


.,70  AUSTRIA. 

letters  and  philosophy  in  the  Austrian  dominions  are  the  coarsenesc 
of  the  German  dialect,  and  the  absence  of  the  Slavonic  and  Hun- 
garian from  tlie  learned  languages  of  Europe  ;  the  military  edu- 
ciuioii  of  the  nobility,  and  that  metaphysical  bigotry,  which  per- 
verts tlicir  rational  powers,  and  blights  every  bud  of  genius  and 
•solid  knowledge. 

Education.  The  empress  Theresa  instituted  schools  for  th» 
education  of  children,  but  none  for  the  education  of  teachers. 
Hence  the  children  are  taught  metaphysics  before  they  know 
Latin  ;  and  a  blind  veneration  for  the  monks  forms  one  of  the  first 
exertions  of  the  yoxmg  mind. 

Universities.  The.  universities,  like  those  in  other  catholic 
countiies,  little  promote  the  progress  of  solid  knowledge.  The 
sciences  taught  with  the  greatest  care  are  those  which  are  of  the 
smallest  utility.  The  university  of  Vienna  has,  since  the  ytar 
1752,  been  somewhat  improved.  It  was  founded  in  1237,  and  that 
of  Prague  in  1347;  that  of  Inspruck  only  dates  from  1677,  and 
Gratz  from  1585.  Hungary  chiclly  boasts  of  Buda.  A  late  trav- 
eller informs  us  that  its  laiiversiiy  possesses  an  income  of  about, 
twenty  thousand  pounds  sterling,  only  four  thousand  of  which  are 
applied  to  pay  the  salaries  of  the  profc-ssors. 

Cities  and  Totvns.  Vienna,  the  chief  city  of  the  Austrian  domin- 
ions, lies  on  the  S.  or  rather  W.  side  of  the  Danube,  in  a  fertile 
plain,  wate)  tc!  by  a  branch  of  that  river,  (beyond  which  stands  the 
suburb  of  Leopoldstadt,)  and  by  the  little  river  Wien.  The  Danube 
is  here  very  wide,  and  contains  several  woody  isles  :  the  country 
towards  the  N.  and  E.  is  level,  but  on  tlie  S.  and  ^V.  hilly,  and  va- 
riegated with  trees.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  1801  was 
232,049,  and  of  houses,  6649.  The  suburbs  are  far  iBore  exten- 
sive than  the  city,  standing  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the 
walls.  The  houses  are  generally  of  brick,  covered  with  durable 
stucco. 

Prague  is  the  second  city  in  the  Austrian  dominions,  its  popula- 
tion being  80,317.  This  metropolis  of  Bohemia  stands  on  both 
bides  of  the  river  Mulda,  over  which  is  a  noble  bridge  of  stone. 
This  city  has  had  the  fataiuy  of  being  exposed  to  frequent  sieges, 
commonly  fortunate  to  the  aggressors.  About  a  sixth  part  of  the 
popiilation  consists  of  Jews. 

The  third  city  is  Lcmberg,  or  Leopold,  in  Gallicia,  on  the  banks 
of  tht  Pelicw,  just  above  its  entrance  into  the  Bug,  being  surround- 
ed with  hills  and  mountains,  which  command  the  town.  The  in- 
habitants in  1808,50,000. 

Next  is  Gratz,  the  capital  of  Stiria,  containing  40,000  souls,  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Muehr. 

PrcsLurg,  the  capital  of  Hungary,  containing  32,600  inhabi- 
tants, is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Danube,  towards  the  western 
fxircmily  of  Hungary,  35  miles  east  of  Vienna.  Tne  Danube  is 
here  very  rapid,  and  about  250  yards  in  breadth.  Jews  also 
aboi'.nd  in  this  city. 

Buria,  by  the  Germans  called  OiTcn,  the  ancient  metropolis  of 
Hungary,  contained,  in  1787,  24jS72  inhabitants.     In  1784.  the  seat 


AUSTRIA.  4-2 

of  the  provincial  government  was  transferred  from  ?resburg  to 
this  place. 

Brunn,  the  capital  of  Moravia,  is  at  the  conflux  of  the  Schwar- 
saw  and  the  Surtawa,  tributaries  of  the  Danube. 

Trieste  lies  on  the  N.  E.  part  of  the  Adriatic,  called  the  gulf  of 
Trieste.  The  harbor  is  well  fortified,  and  the  trade  considerable. 
It  contained,  in  1801,  23,633  inhabitants. 

Schemnitz,  the  lar{j;cst  of  the  mine-towns  in  Hungary,   lies  be- 
tween hills,  in  a  long  valley.    The  inhabitants  are  22,24 1  in  number. 
I\fa?iufac lures  and   Commerce.     Vienna,    perhaps,    e(]iials   any 
other  of  the  cities  in  manufactures,  which  are  chiefly  of  silk,  gold 
and  silver  lace,  cloths,  stuffs,  stockings,  linen,  mirrors,  porcelain  ; 
with  silver  plate,  and  several  articles  in  brass.*     Eolicmia  is  cele- 
brated for  beautiful  glass  and  paper.     The   linen  manufactures  of 
Bohemia  amount,  annually,   according  to  Hoeck,  to   16,000,000 
florins,  beside  some  in  wool  and  in  cotton.     The  woollen  manu- 
facture at  Lintz  employs  30,000  persons  ;  and  in  the   whole  arch- 
dutchy  there  are  7  great  manufactures  of  cotton  cloth,  which  em- 
ploy 140,000  persons.     But  the  commerce  of  the  Austrian  domin- 
ions chiefly  depends  upon  their  native  opulence  ;  Austria  proper 
and  the   southern    provinces   producing   abundance  of  horses  and 
cattle,  corn^,  flax,  saffron,  and  various  wines,  with  several  metals, 
particularly   quicksilver  from  the    mines  of  Idria.     Bohemia  and 
Moravia  are  also  rich  in  oxen  and  sheep,  corn,  flax,  and  hemp  ;  irs 
■which  they  are  rivalled  by  the  dismembered  provinces  of  Poland. 
The  wide  and  marshy  plains  of  Hungary   often  present  excellent 
pasturage  for  numerous  herds  of  cattle  ;  and   the   more   favored 
parts  of  that  country  produce  corn,  rice,  the  rich  wines  of  'I'okay, 
and  tobacco  of  an  exquisite  flavor,  with  great  and  celebrated  mines 
of  various  metals  and  minerals.     The  Austrian  territories  in  gen- 
eral are  so  abundant  in  the  various  necessaries  and  luxuries  of  life, 
to  be  found  either  in  the  north  or  south   of  Europe,  that  the  im- 
ports seem  to  be  few  and  inconsiderable.     The   chief  exports  are 
from  the  port  of  Trieste,  consisting  of  quicksilver  and  other  met- 
als, with  v/ines  and  various  native  products.     Dr.  Townson  gives  a 
table  of  the  exports  of  Hungary  for  one  year,  from    which  it  ap- 
pears that  they  consisted  chiefly  of  cattle,  bogs,  sheep,  fluur,  wheat, 
rye,  wool,  and  v/ine,  curried  to  other  Austrian  provinces  ;  and  only 
about  one  seventh  part  sent  to  foreign  countries. 

Climaie  and  Scaso7is.  The  climate  of  Austria  proper  is  com- 
monly mild  and  salubrious,  thoi2gli  sometimes  exposed  to  violent 
■winds,  and  the  southern  provinces  in  general  enjoy  delightful  tem- 
perature, if  the  mountainous  parts  be  excepted, 

jF'ace  of  the  Country.  The  appearance  of  the  various  regions 
tsubject  to  Austria  is  rather  mountainous  than  level,  presenting  s. 
striking  contrast  in  this  respect  to  those  of  Russia  and  Prussia. 
The  general  face  of  the  Austrian  dominions  may  be  pronounced  to 
be  highly  variegated  and  interesting ;  and  the  vegetable  products, 
of  both  the  north  and  south  of  Europe  unite  to  please  the  eye  of  th^ 
traveller. 

•  Buschino:,  V!.  543.     See  Hoeck* 


472  AUSTRIA. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  is  upon  the  whole  fertile  and 
productive,  in  spitt;  of  the  neglect  of  industry,  which  has  permitted 
many  parts  of  Hungary,  and  of  the  Polish  provinces,  to  pass  into 
wide  forests  and  marshes.  The  latter  country,  particular-iy  iu  ma- 
ny places,  exhibits  few  symptoms  of  an  inhabited  and  stih  less  of  a 
civilized  region.  Were  skill  and  labor  to  assume  the  axe  and 
spade,  those  very  pans  might  display  the  greatest  exuberance  of 
fertility.  The  state  of  agriculture  in  Moravia  is  superior  to  the 
rest,  being  improved  by  Flemish  farmers. 

Rivers.  After  the  Danube,  which  has  already  been  described, 
the  river  next  in  cot)sequence  is  tlie  Teis,  which  falls  into  the 
Danube  W.  of  Belgrade,  after  a  course  of  about  420  miles.  At 
Belgrade  the  Danube  receives  the  Save,  which  forms  a  boundary 
between  Austria  and  Turkey.  That  of  the  Drave  joins  the  Danube 
below  Esseg.  The  Inn  joins  the  Danube  at  Passau  with  a  weight 
of  water  nearly  equal  to  that  stream,  after  a  course  of  about  250 
miles.  It  is  v\o\v  only  a  frontier  of  Austria,  and  that  but  for  a  small 
distance. 

The  Mulda  joins  the  Elbe  near  Melnick,  after  passing  through 
Pragp.e.  The  Morau,  passing  by  Olmutz,  joins  the  Danube  W.  of 
Presburg. 

Lake.i.  The  lakes  in  the  Austrian  dominions  ai"e  numerous,  and 
some  of  them  of  considerable  size. 

Mountains.  The  provinces  of  Carinthia,  Carniola  and  Upper 
Austria  present  many  considerable  chains  of  mountains. 

The  Caipathian  mountains,  that  grand  and  extensive  chain, 
•which  bounds  Hungary  on  the  N.  and  E.  have  been  celebrated 
from  all  antiquity.  This  enormous  ridge  extends  in  its  whole  cir- 
cuit about  500  miles.  The  highest  summits  of  these  mountains, 
according  to  Dr.  Townson,  do  not  exceed  8  or  9000  feet,  and  they 
are  for  the  most  part  composed  of  granite  and  primitive  limestone. 

Mineralogy.  There  is  scarcely  a  province  of  this  extensive  ter- 
ritory, from  the  frontiers  of  Bavaria  to  those  of  Turkey,  which  can- 
not boast  of  advantages  in  the  mineral  kingdom  ;  and  as  it  were 
by  a  destiny  attached  to  the  house  of  Austria,  even  the  acquisitions 
in  Poland  contain  one  of  the  most  remarkable  mines  in  Europe,  the 
saline  excavations  of  Wielilska.  The  mines  of  Bohemia  have  been 
celebrated  from  ancient  times.*  Silver,  copper,  iron,  quicksilver, 
lead,  and  garnets  are  found  in  different  parts  of  the  Austrian  do- 
minions. 

But  the  principal  mines  in  the  Austrian  dominions  are  situated 
in  the  eastern  provinces  of  Hungary  and  Transylvania.  About  40 
miles  to  the  S.  of  the  Carpathian  hills  are  the  gold  mines  of  Crem- 
nitz  ;  and  20  English  miles  further  to  the  S.  the  silver  mines  of 
Shemnitz  :  cities  which  have  arisen  solely  from  these  labors,  and 
thence  called  mining  towns.  Shemnitz  is  esteemed  the  principal. 
The  academy  here  instituted  for  the  study  of  m.ineralogy*is  highly 
respectable,  and  only  rivalled  by  that  of  Freyberg  in  Saxony.  Hun- 
gary  contains  mines  of  copper  at  Schmelnitz  and  Herrengrund,  of 

•  Buscbing,  vol.  vl.  126.     French  edit.  8vo, 


SWIxiEllLANB.  4fi 

very  J-ich  antimony  at  Rosenau  ;  and  in  diffcreh't  parts,  of  coal,  salt, 
and  alum.  Saltpetre  is  also  produced  in  considtrable  quantities: 
and  natron  or  soda  is  fouiul  iir  a  lake  near  Kistnarja,  towards  the 
frontier  of  Transylvaiuu.*  But  a  mineral  pcouiiar  to  Hungary, 
and  as  yet  discovered  in  no  other  region  of  the  i^iobe,  is  tne  opal, 
a  f;em  prei'erred  to  all  others  by  the  ori^.-ntal  nations.  The  opal 
mines  are  situated  at  Czcrweniza.  The  hiii,  in  which  they  are 
found,  consists  of  decomposed  porphyry  ;  and  they  only  occur  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  fathonis  Iioin  the  surface,  of  various  qualities} 
from  the  opake  while,  or  semi-opal,  which  is  also  discovered  in 
Cornwall,  to  that  utmost  eft'uigence  of  iridescent  colors  whicji  dis= 
tinguishes  tliis  noble  gem. 

The  mines  of  Transylvania  and  the  Bannal  are  also  numerous 
and  valuable. 

The  salt  mines  acquired  from  Poland  alone  remain  to  be  de- 
scribed. They  are  situated,  as  already  mentioned,  at  Wielitska,  B 
miles  to  the  S.  of  Cracow,  being  excavated  at  the  norihern  extrem- 
ity of  a  branch  of  the  Carpathian  mountains.  The  descent  is  by 
pits  of  great  depths  ;  and  the  galleries  and  chambers  are  of  im- 
mense size,  commonly  supported  by  timber,  or  by  vast  pillars  of 
salt,  out  of  which  material  even  subterraneous  chapt;ls  are  formed  ; 
but  travellers  have  idly  exaggerated  the  splendor  and  extent  of  the 
saline  apartments. t  Tiie  salt  is  of  an  iron  grey  color,  sometimes 
intermingled  with  white  cubes  ;  and  sometimes  large  blocks  of 
salt  appear  imbedded  in  marii  Tiie  purest  sort  is  found  at  the 
bottom  of  the  mine,  and  is  sparry.  The  length  of  tlie  mine  is  6697 
feet,  the  breadth  1115,  and  tiie  depth  7'43.  It  has  been  worked 
above  600  years,  and  is  apparently  inexhaustible.  Before  the  par- 
tition it  yielded  annually  ;^J7,222  sterling.  But  it  has  beon  less 
productive  since. 


SWITZERLAND. 

ExtenL  THE  length  of  Svvilzcndand  from  E.  to  W.  is  about  200 
miles;  its  breadth  from  N.  to  S.  ai)out  13U.  The  cuiitents,  hi 
square  miles,  arc,  according  to  Hassel,  15,755. 

Boundaricn.  Bounded  N.  W.  !^  France  ;  N.  by  the  Riiine  and 
the  lake  of  Couslai\ce,  which  sep^-ate  it  IVoui  t!ie  grand  mitchy  of 
Cleves,  and  the  khigdom  of  Bavaria,  botli  in  Gjrnia.iy  ;  E  by  the 
Tyrol,  which  is  a  purt  of  Bayaria,  by  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  and  by 
Piedmont ;  S.  VV.  by  Savoy. 

Divmons.  Switzerland  formerly  consisted  of  1 3  cantons,  with 
their  allies  and  subjects.  Several  of  the  allied  and  subjected  slates 
have  been  annexed  to  France  and  Italy.  Tiie  remainder  have 
been  formed  imo  new  cantons.  The  old  13  cantons  retain  their 
former  names  and  extent,  and  arc  the  first  in  the  foliowint^  table, 
taken  from  Hassel,  and  exhibiting  the  state  of  the  country,  in  1809. 

*  Journ.des  Min.  No.  2.  f  Coxe's  Pol.  i.  200.  |  Towas»n,  388. 

60 


m 


aWITZERLANiy. 


rgau" 


The  population  is 
mate. 

Cantons. 

1.  5  Bern 

2.  7  Aarg 

3.  Basil 

4.  Schaffhausen 

5.  Zurich 

6.  Appenzel 
7..  Glurus 

8.  Friburg 

9.  Lucern 
10.  Soleure 


partly  from  a  census,  and  partly  from  his  cs6* 


Inhabitants. 

Cantons.                    Inhabitants. 

232,508 

11. 

Zug 

14735 

134,444 

12. 

Switz 

31,400 

42,193 

13. 

Uri 

17,500 

27,590 

14. 

Underwald 

2  1 ,200 

182,123 

15. 

Orison's  Country 

74,000 

55,000 

16. 

St.  Gall 

1  62  000 

19,280 

17. 

Tcbsinof 

161,000 

89,610 

18. 

Thui'gaul 

74,000 

110,000 

19. 

Pays  de  Vaud^ 

145,215. 

43,610 

The  following  countries  lately  l>elonged,  or  were  allied,  to  Swit- 
zerland ;  Geneva,  now  a  part  of  Fiance  ;  Neulchatel,  taken  from 
Prussia  by  the  French,  now  a  dependency  ot  Fiance;  the  Valte- 
line,  annexed  to  the  kingdom  of  Italy  ;  and  liie  Valais,  top" ranee. 

The  situation  of  these  various  districts  can  best  be  learned  from 

the  map- 

Historical  Efiochs.  The  chief  historical  epochs  may  be  ar- 
ranged in  the  following  order  : 

1.  The  wars  with  the  Romans  ;  the  subjugation  of  the  Helvetii 
and  Rhaeti,  and  the  subsequent  events  till  the  decline  of  the  Romaic 
empire  in  the  west. 

2.  The  conversion  of  the  country  to  Christianity  by  the  Irish, 
monks,  Columbanus,  Galius,  and  others,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
7th  century. 

3.  The  commencement  of  the  Swiss  emancipation,  A.  D.  1307  ;_ 
and  the  subsequent  struggles  with  the  house  of  Austria. 

4.  The  history  of  the  reformation  in  Switzerland. 

5.  The  insurrection  of  the  peasants  of  Bern,  in  the  middle  of  the 
17th  century. 

6.  The  dissolution  of  the  confederacy  by  the  French  invasion, 
A.  D.  1798. 

Religion.  The  inhabitants  compose  but  two  sects,  Calvinists 
and  Catholics.  The  former  are  the  most  numerous.  The  pro- 
portion is  more  than  9  to  7.  The  Calvinistic  clergy  were  all  on  a 
level.  The  Catholics  were  subjected  to  one  archbishop,  and  six 
bishops. 

Government.  A  new  constitution  was  established  for  them  by 
the  First  Consul,  in  1802.  The  government  consists  of  two  land- 
ammans,  a  senate,  and  a  diet.  The  diet,  composed  of  representa- 
tives from  the  cantons,  meets  annually  ;  and,  at  the  proposition  of 
the  senate,  declares  war  and  makes  peace,  ratifies  treaties,  and 
adopts,  or  rejects  such  laws,  as  less  than  two  thirds  of  the  cantons 
have  approved.  The  senate  consists  of  2  landammans,  2  stad= 
tholders,  and  26. councillors.      It  names  all  public  functionaries. 

*  Aargau  is  a  part  of  the  old  canton  of  Berne, 
f  Te.ssino,  formerly  the  Italian  Bailliages. 
\  Thurgau  or  Turgoria. 
•5  Pays  de  Vaud,  or  Waadt. 


SWITZERLAND.  475 

-1^  deputation  of  the  senate  administers  the  government  during  a 
'  recesb  of  that  body. 

This  government  was  forced  upon  the  inhabitants  at  the  pointof 
the  bayonet. 

Fofiulation.     Ilassel's  general  estimate  is  1 ,638,000. 

Arr.iy.  The  military  force,  in  1809,  was  15,023  men.  There 
■were  then  from  20  to  30,000  Swiss  soldiers  in  foreign  countries. 
France  alone  had  15,000  ;  the  rest  were  in  England,  Spain,  and 
Holland. 

Revenue.  The  revenue,  in  1809,  was  stated  by  Hassel  at 
1,000,000  German  guiidevs,  or  555, 5(;0  dollars.  Formerly  it  was 
computed  at  more  than  a  million  sterling.  Bern  is  still  the  richest 
of  the  cantons,  and  is  said  to  have  large  sums  in  foreign  funds. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  houses  of  the  Swiss  are  of  wood, 
constructed  in  the  most  simple  form,  with  staircases  on  the  out- 
side. The  dross  of  the  inhabitants,  inmost  of  the  cantons,  'was 
regulated  by  sumptuary  laws.  In  the  rest,  the  changes  of  fashions 
were  little  regarded.  The  cleanliness  of  the  houses,  and  of  the 
■people,  was  striking.  Even  the  cottages  conveyed  a  lively  idea  of 
neatness  and  simplicity,  and  impressed  a  pleasing  conviction  of  the 
peasant's  happiness.  Each  had  its  little  territory  distributed  into 
a  garden,  a  field,  a  meadow,  and  a  pasture,  frequently  skirted  with 
trees,  and  well  supplied  with  water.  The  diversions  of  the  inhab- 
itants were  chiefly  of  the  active  and  warlike  kind,  such  as  running, 
wrestling,  and  shooting  with  the  bow  and  musquet.  The  magis- 
trates were  exemplary  in  the  punishment  and  prevention  of  petty 
offences,  than  which  no  surer  method  can  be  taken  to  preserve  the 
morals  of  the  community.  The  Swiss  were  intensely  attached  to 
their  native  country.  The  slightest  circumstances  reminded  the 
absent  soldier  of  the  scenes  of  his  infancy,  and  drew  him  back  by 
•  an  irresistible  attraction  to  the  streams  and  the  val'ej's,  the  moun- 
tains and  the  forests,  among  which  he  had  passed  the  happiest  sea- 
ison  of  life.  Such  were  the  happy  Swiss,  before  the  i'rench  subju- 
gated their  country.  What  changes  this  sad  event  has  produced 
are  unknown  to  tiie  writer. 

Language.  The  French  is  spoken  in  the  Pays  de  Vaud.  The 
■language  called  the  Vaudois  eppears  to  have  been  confined  to  the 
valleys  of  Piedmont. 

Literature.  Switzerland  boasts  of  many  eminent  names,  as  the 
reformer  Ulric  Zvvingli,  or  Zuinglius  ;  Conrad  Gesner,  born  at 
Zurich  in  1516,  who  published  an  universal  library.  Among  the 
wi'iters  of  the  last  century  may  be  named  Bernoulli,  the  rnathema- 
tician,  a  native  of  Basil ;  Scheuchzer,  the  natural  historian  ;  Hal- 
ier  ;  John  Gesner,  the  natural  philosopher ;  Solomon  Gesner,  the 
poet ;  Bonnet,  Hirzel,  and  Zimmerman,  physicians  ;  Rousseau,  and 
Necker,  natives  of  Geneva  ;  Lavater,  the  physiognomist ;  Euler, 
the  mathematician  ;  and  many  others. 

Education.     Switzerland  resembled  Connecticut  in  the  general 

diffusion  of  knowledge.     The  education  of  the  common  school  was 

>ianiversally  shared  by  the  inhabitants.      Religious  instruction  was 

•45ammunicated  successfully  every  sabbath,  and  the  inhabitants  gen- 


476-  SWITZERLANEK 

erally  had  an  important  acquaintance  with  the  doctrines  and  ihs 
duties  of  Chrisiiaiiiiy.  There  was  an  university  of  soidc  reputa- 
tion at  Basil,  loundcd  in  1469,  and  colleges  at  Berne,  Zuriecb,  and 
Lucerne. 

Ciiies  and  Towns.  Basil,  or  Basle,  is  oa  both  sides  cf  the 
Rhine.  A  biidi;;e  connects  the  two  parts.  Its  extent  is  capable 
of  containing  100,000  inhabitants,  and  it  is  said  to  have  220  streets 
and  6  market  places.  The  environs  consist  oi  fine  level  fields  and 
sneadows.  Here  were  extensive  manufectures  of  ribbands  and. 
cottons,  and  the  trade  of  the  place  was  considerable.  The  number 
of  inhabitants  is  1 3,060. 

Berne  stands  on  a  peninsula  formed  by  the  Aar,  the  neck  of 
which  is  fortified.  The  streets  are  wide,  and  the  houses  mostly  o£ 
stone.  The  great  church  is  a  most  beautiful  piece  of  architecture. 
The  city  is  of  singular  neatness,  and  beauty,  and  the  environs  are 
rich  and  fertile,  presentins^  a  prospect  'if  hills,  lawns,  wood,  and 
■water,  bounded  at  a  distance  by  the  long  chain  of  the  superior  Alps, 
Inhabitants  )  3,339. 

Zurich,  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lake  of  Zurich,  where  its  waters, 
are  discharged  northwards,  through  the  Lammat  towards  the 
Khine.     Inhabitants,  in  1807,  10,353. 

Climate.  Many  of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  perennial 
snows,  and  the  frosts  of  winter  are  often  very  severe.  But  the 
summer  has  sufficient  heat  to  mature  the  grape,  though  the  vine 
harvest  is  rendered  precarious  by  the  occasional  cold  winds  from 
the  Alps.  Even  the  corn  harvest  is  so  often  injured  by  rains  and 
tempests,  that  public  granaries  have  been  el-ected  to  supply  the 
failure  of  crops.  The  vaiieys  are  generally  warm,  and  such  is  the 
diversity  of  seasons  in  diffeient  parts,  that  the  inhabitants  are  often 
reaping  on  one  side  of  the  mountains,  when  they  are  sowing  on  the 
other. 

Face  cf  the  Country.  Switzerland  is  generally  mountainouSy, 
but  less  so  in  tlie  north,  than  in  the  south. 

Soil  and  Ag7-lcullure,.  The  valleys  and  plains,  though  generally 
Stony,  are  ferule.  The  sides  of  tlie  hills,  also,  with  a  vigorous  cul= 
tivation,  repay  the  labor  of  the  husbandman,  and  perhaps  in  no 
country,  except  Holland,  does  the  eye  meet  with  more  numerous 
proofs  of  persevering  industry.  Sufficient  grain  is  commonly  rais- 
ed for  home  consumption.  Barley  is  cultivated  on  the  mountain, 
tops  ;  oats,  rye,  and  spelt,  require  successively  a  warmer  situation. 
Flax  and  hemp  are  cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent ;  and  tobac- 
co lias  lately  been  introduced.  Tlic  vine  is  cultivated  with  most 
success  in  Btrne,  Schaff'hauscn,  and  the  Pays  de  Vaud.  The  at- 
tention of  the  Swiss  farmer  is,  however,  chiefly  devoted  to  liis  cat- 
tle, and  most  of  the  fertile  land  is  used  for  meadow  and  pasture. 
Apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  and  nuts,  are  found  every  where  in 
abund&iice  ;  and,  in  the  warmer  districts,  peaches,  almonds,  figs, 
and  pomegranates. 

Rivtrs.  Ti)e  Rlsine  and  the  Rhone,  already  described,  pass 
through  Swhzerland. 

The  Aar  pursues  a  winding  course  towards  the  N.  W-  througlv 


SWITZERLAND.  4^ 

the  lake  of  Tlnin,  to  Aaiburg  ;  then  turninr^  lo  the  N.  E.  and  re- 
ceiving the  waters  of  tiie  lake  of  Nciifchaiel,  and  bcii).<<  joint  rl  by 
the  Reuss  and  theLimmat,  falls  into  the  Rhine,  opposite  Waldshut, 
after  a  course  of  150  miles.  Ihc  Rcuss  issues  from  Mount  St, 
Gothard,  and  passing  through  the  lake  of  Lucern,  runs  N.  to  ihc 
Aar,  a  course  of  80  miles.  The  Limmat,  running  20  miles,  enters 
the  Icike  of  Zurich  ;  from  which  it  runs  about  the  same  distance, 
and  joins  the  Aar,  a  little  below  tiie  Reuss. 

Tiie  Thur  runs  westward,  and  joins  the  Rhine  below  SchaffV 
hausen.     The  Tessino  falls  into  t!ie  lake  of  Maggiorc. 

JL,akes.  The  lakes  of  Switzerland  are  numerous  and  interest- 
ing. The  most  considerable  are  those  of  Constance  on  liic  N.  E. 
and  Geneva  on  the  S.  W.  The  former  is  about  45  miles  in 
length,  and  in  some  places  15  in  breadth.  It  is  a  beautiful  ex- 
panse of  water. 

The  lake  of  Geneva  extends  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  about  40 
miles  in  length,  and  9  at  its  greatest  breadth.  The  beauties  of 
this  lake  have  been  celebrated  by  Rousseau  ;  but  would  be  con- 
siilerably  increased  if  it  were  sprinkled  witii  islands. 

Mountains.  The  Alps,  the  most  celebrated  of  the  mountains  of 
antiquity,  pass  between  Piedmont,  on  the  E.  and  France  and  Sa- 
voy on  the  W.  through  Switzerland,  and  between  Italy  on  the 
S.  W.  and  Germany  on  the  N.  E.  till  they  terminate  at  the  gulf  of 
Carnero,  on  the  E.  of  Istria.  Tlie  whole  length  of  the  cliain  is 
about  550  miles.  Different  parts  of  it  have  received  dift'crent 
names,  but  the  common  name  of  Alps  has  been  extended  to  the 
•whole.  The  highest  eminence  of  this  chain  13  Mont  Blanc,  separ-f 
ating  the  N.  W.  corner  of  Piedmont  from  Savcy.  Its  summit  and 
sides,  to  the  depth  of  4000  fett  perpendicular,  are  covered  with 
perpetual  ice  and  snow.  The  first,  who  explored  its  summit,  was 
Mr.  De  Saussure,  of  Geneva,  in  1787.  Sh'  George  Shuckburgh 
measured  its  height  with  great  accuracy,  and  found  it  to  be  15,662 
feet  above  the  ocean,  a  greater  elevation  than  that  of  any  measur- 
ed mountain  in  the  old  world. 

The  Helvetic  Alps  are  a  ridge  north  of  the  R'lone,  and  running 
nearly  parallel  with  the  principal  cl.ain.  The  chief  eminences  be- 
tvi'een  the  Rhone  and  Mount  St.  Gothard,  are  Gernmi,  Jungfrau, 
Sehreckhorn,  and  Fhisteraar,  13,218  feet  high. 

Mineralogy.  The  mountains  contain  iron,  sulphurj  and  crys- 
tal. The  last  is  found  in  pieces  weif^hing  from  7  to  800  weight. 
Rock  salt  is  found  in  the  canton  of  Berne.  Granite,  porphyiy,  as- 
bestos, jaspers,  and  agates  are  abundant  in  tlie  Alps.  Tremoiite 
has  its  name  from  mount  Tremola,  mar  St.  Gothard. 

GENEVA. 

GENEVA  is  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  lakQ  of  - 
this  name,  where,  contracting,  it  forms  the  Rhone.  The  inhabitant? 
became  christians  in  the  3d  century.  In  1533,  t!ie  doctrines  of 
the  reformation  were  established,  and  the  celebrated  Calvin  here 
found  a  safe  retreat  from  the  persecution  of  the  Catliolics.  'ihe 
territory  belonging  lo  the  republic  coniprised  about  00  sqtiare 


478  SPAIN. 

miles  ;  and  the  population  was  30,000.  The  city  of  Geneva  itseli> 
contained,  in  1802,  23,309  inhabitants.  The  Rhone  divides  it  into 
two  unequal  parts.  The  town  and  territory  are  now  an  integral 
part  of  France, 


SPANISH  EMPIRE. 

THE  Spanish,  like  the  British  Empire,  embraces  portions  ^ 
territory  in  all  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe. 

1.  In  Europe. 
Spain. 

Majorca,! 

Minorca,  V  Islands  in  the  Mediterranean. 

Ivica,       J 

2.  In  Africa. 

African  Presidencies,  Ceuta,  Melilla,  and  a  few  other  cities. 

Canary  Islands,  '^ 

Isle  of  Fernando  Po,   !    •    ,i,     a  ..i     *- 

Prince's  Island,  >>  m  the  AtlanUc. 

Annabon  Island,         J 

S.  In  Asia. 
Philippine  Islands. 
Calamianes. 

X,adrones,  or  Marian  Islands. 
Oarolinas. 

Part  of  Magindanao. 
Sashee  Islands  (south  of  Formosa.) 

4.  In  America. 
3?'loridas. 
Mexico. 
Cuba,  I. 
Porto  Rico,  I. 

New  Grenada,  or  Western  Terra  Firma- 
Venezuela,  or  Eastern  Terra  Firma. 
Peru. 
Chili. 

Buenos  Ayres,  or  Paraguay. 
Falkland  Islands. 


SPAIN. 

Extent.  SPAIN  lies  between  Ion.  9  17  30  W.  and  3  45  E.  and 
iietwecn  lat.  36  6  30,  and  43  46  30  N.  Its  greatest  length,  is  620 
miles ;  and  its  greatest  breadth  530.  The  number  of  square  miles, 
.according  to  Hassel,  is  195,510. 


SPAIN. 


4r.8e> 


boundaries.  Spain  is  bounded  N.  by  the  bay  of  Biscay  and: 
France  ;  E.  by  the  Mediterranean  ;  S.  by  the  same  and  the  Atlan- 
tic ;  W.  by  Portugal  and  the  Atlantic. 

Divisions.  The  following  we  believe  to  be  an  accurate  account 
of  the  divisions  and  subdivisions  of  Spain,  with  the  extent  and  the 
population  of  each  in  1787;  together  with  the  number  of  cities, 
boroughs,  villages,  and  parishes. 


Kingdoms. 

Provinces. 

Extent. 

Population. 

CIt. 

Bor. 

Villa. 

Par. 

Gallicia, 

14,030 

1,343,803 

I 

120 

187 

306 

Asturia, 

<  Oviedo,        ) 
1  Santillana,  5 

5260 

347,776 

3 

290 

4757 

1284 

["Biscay, 

1430 

116,092 

124 

Biscay, 

Alava, 

1100 

71,349 

432. 

[Oiiipuscoa, 

800 

120,716 

76 

Navarre, 

3950 

227,382 

Arragon, 

15,550 

623,308 

11 

Catalonia, 

12,710 

814,412 

Valencia, 

"Mallorca,     "1 

10,740 

932,150 

Mallorca,         -< 
1 

Minorca,       v 
_Ivica,           J 

1890 

179,066 

Murcia, 

5480 

337,686 

7 

230 

1 33 

365  = 

Granada, 

\  Granada,     > 
•  Antequera,  3 

12,710 

661,661 

19,638 

7 

81 

3203 

3658" 

6r 

'Seville, 

9250 

754,293 

1 

59 

185 

249-' 

Andalusia, 

Cordova, 

6490 

236,016 

2 

134 

502 

765 

_  Jaen, 

5260 

177,136 

2 

179 

554 

499 

Estremadura, 

14,950 

416,922 

1 

83 

229 

329 

'Leon, 

250,134 

15 

160 

26 

219 

Palencia, 

112,514 

4 

55 

63^. 

Leon,              < 

Toro,            . 
Zamora,        f* 
Salamanca,  ( 

17,640 

92,404 

74,669 

210,389 

5 

17 
1 

58 
182 

11 

172 

74 

397' 

^Valladolid,  J 

196,839 

5 

6(' 

1 

10&^ 

'Burgos,       ^ 

465;410 

6 

588 

1191 

1828 

OldCastille,    < 

Segovia,       f 
Soria,            ^ 

16,220 

174,289 

1 

100 

3(12 

410 

170,565 

4 

132 

482 

639^ 

^Avila, 

115,172 

1 

9( 

207 

286 

' 

^ladrid,         ~] 
Toledo,           1 

216,226 

7:; 

17 

92 

337,078 

2 

22' 

100 

327 

New-Castille,<^ 

Guadalaxara  J>37,94(  | 

114,37i.' 

2 

187 

110 

319 

Cuenza, 

266,!  8^i 

2 

23; 

186 

431 

Mancha, 

214,078 

2 

9o 

93 

114 

Historical  Efiochs.     The  following  are  the  chief  epochs  in  Span- 
ish history. 

1.  The  original  settlement  by  the  Celts,  and  then  by  the  Mauri. 

2.  The  Carthagenian  conquest  of  Spain  about  the  lime  of  the 
first  Punic  War. 

3.  The  Roman  dominion,  which  lasted  from  B.  C.  195  to  A.  Di 
411.  '  -  ' 


465  SPAIN. 

4.  The  domination  of  the  northern  barbarians. 

5.  The  (lominaiion  oftlie  Saracens. 

6.  The  union  ot  the  crowns  of  Castille  and  Arragon  by  the  may" 
t'iage  of  Isiiijella  and  Ferdinand,  in  1474. 

7.  The  reig;n  of  the  emperor  Charles  V.  which  besjan  in  1517. 
Tlie  power  ot  Spain  was  now  at  its  zenith. 

8.  I'he  conquest  of  Portugal  by  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  and  I.  of 
Portuj^al,  in  1580,  soon  afttr  the  defeat  of  ihe  Portuguese,  in  Afri- 
ca, by  Mulcy  Moloch,  'i'bc  Spaniards  found  their  conquest  an 
unquiet  possessiun  during  the  60  years  of  its  subjugation.  In 
1640,  John,  duke  of  Bia;j:aiiza,  put  liimsclf  at  the  head  of  the  Por- 
ui^uejc,  who  unanimously  shook  off  the  Spanish  yoke,  and  brave- 
ly uciueved  their  independence. 

9.  The  termination  of  the  Austrian  dynasty  by  the  death  of 
Charles  II.  Novem!)er  1,  1700  :  and  the  accession  of  the  house  of 
Bourbon,  in  the  person  of  Philip,  grandson  of  Louis  XiV". 

10.  The  kidnapping  of  the  Spanish  royal  family  at  Bayonne, 
in  the  spring  of  1808,  by  the  French  emperor,  and  the  subsequent 
attempt  to  impose  his  brother  Joseph  on  the  Spaniards,  in  the  room 
of  Ferdinand  VII.  the  lawful  monarch. 

11.  The  liberation  of  Spain  from  the  usurped  dominion  of 
France,  1813. 

Bciig-io?i.  The  Catholic  is  almost  the  only  religion  known  or 
tolerated  in  Spain,  and  is  here  exercised  in  all  its  ceremonial  or- 
thodoxy. The  court  of  inquisition,  instituted  in  1478,  by  Ferdi- 
nand the  catholic,  was  long  invested  with  exorbitant  power,  a  pow- 
er exercised  with  a  degree  of  intolerance  and  cruelty  known  in  no 
other  country  but  Portugal.  The  high  court  was  at  Madrid,  and 
8  subordinate  courts  were  scattered  over  the  kingdom.  This  bale- 
ful and  detestable  court  was  abolished  by  the  government  in  1813. 
There  arc  in  Spain  8  archbishoprics,  48  bishoprics,  1 17  cathedrals, 
18,537  parishes,  2146  monasteries,  and  1023  nunneries.  The 
revenues  of  the  archbishoprics  are  very  great.  That  of  Toledo 
is  about  £90,000  sterling.  The  whole  number  of  clergy,  in  1787, 
was  188,625,  of  whom  22,460  were  parish  priests,  and  their  assist- 
ants ;   69,617  monks  ;  32,500  nuns  ;  and  2,705  inquisitors. 

Government.  The  government  was  a  despotic  monarchy,  bal- 
anced however  by  the  power  of  the  church,  and  tempered  by  many 
councils,  who  were  responsible  for  the  success  of  their  own 
measures. 

Population.  The  cepsus  of  1787  gave  a  population  of  10,268,150. 
Hassel  estimated  it  in  1809,  at  10,396,000.  Since  tliat  time  it 
must  have  been  seriously  diminished  by  the  indiscriminate  carnage 
occasioned  by  the  armies  of  France. 

The  government  of  Spain,  during  her  struggle  for  independence, 
has  undergone  several  changes,  and  is  still  in  a  revolutionary  and 
unsettled  state. 

The  census  of  1787  exceeded  that  of  1768-9,  by  960,346  souls. 

Army.  In  1806,  the  army  amounted  to  153,810  men,  under  the 
command  of  a  generalissimo,  5  captain-generals,  92  lieutenant- 
generals,  136  major-generals,  and  225  brigadiers.     Since  the  rev- 


telation  almost  every  man  has  become  a  soldier,  and  the  Spanish 
recruits  have  m  many  instances  exhibited  the  valor  and  intrepidity 
«f  veteran  troops. 

Mivij.  In  1 808,  the  navy  amounted  to  2 1 8  sail ;  whereof  42 
Tyere  of  the  lino,  30  frigates,  20  corvettes,  4  zebecs,  40  brit^an- 
tines,  15  bonib-vessels,  and  67  smaller  vessels.  Tiisse  were  man- 
ned by  2379  marines,  3320  artillery,  and  36,000  sailors. 

Revetiue.  Llerena  states  tlie  Spanish  revenue  at  616,295,675 
rials  de  vellon,  or  about  32,575,000  dollars.  Otlicvs  state  it  at  40 
millions  of  dollars.  The  first  nearly  agrees  with  tiie  estimate  of 
Kassel,  and  is  probably  correct.  Of  this  revenue  America  fur- 
nishes about  2,100,000  dollars.  The  expenditure  usually  some- 
what exceeded  the  revenue.  The  national  debt,  in  1809,  was  es- 
timated by  Kassel  at  about  3  1 1,000,000  dollars.  About  40,000,000 
dollars  are  annually  brout;;ht  hither,  of  which  about  32,000,000 
come  from  America.  The  whole  amount  imported  in  the  register- 
ed ships  alone,  from  the  discovery  of  the  mines  to  t!io  year  1725, 
was  5  !85  millions  in  gold  and  silver.  But  it  merely  passes  through 
Spain,  to  the  residences  of  industry  and  enierprize. 

Manners  and  Custor.-.s.  The  Spaniards  are  generally  shortj 
thin,  and  well  proportioned.  Their  complexion  is  olive.  Their 
manners  are  grave  and  slow,  but  grac«;ful.  They  are  distinguish- 
ed for  their  national  and  personal  pride.  These  prevent  tliem 
from  stooping  to  the  more  grovelling  vices.  They  are  credulous, 
superstitious,  and  bigoted  ;  but  at  present  not  intolerant.  Thej'^ 
are  revengeful ;  but  assiisslnations  arc  less  frequent  than  formerly, 
and  are  not  common  except  in  And:ilusia  and  Granada.  Juaiousy 
was  formerly  a  common  characteristic  of  the  nation,  but  it  has  been 
succeeded  by  a  more  criminal  indiff'.;rence.  One  of  the  most 
striking  of  the  present  national  muuncrs  and  customs,  is  the  com- 
mon practice  of  adultery,  under  tiie  mask  of  religion.  The  cicif<bei 
first  appeared  as  a  distinct  class  uf  men  in  Italy  several  centuries 
since,  and  were  soon  f.)und  in  Ausfrii>,  Spain,  and  Portugal.  In 
France  they  were  uyineca^fiary.  \\\  iialy  they  are  usually  gentle- 
men. In  Spain  ihey  are  often  monks  and  ecclesiastics.  They  are 
called  cortrjos,  and  often  discover  a  singular  degree  of  fideiiiy  and 
constancy  in  their  criminal  attachment. 

In  general  the  Spaniards  are  patient,  cautious,  distinguished  for 
their  sobriety  and  temperance,  charitable,  friendly,  faithful,  and 
strictly  honest  in  their  deafmgs.  They  are  obedient  to  the  lawsj 
and  willing  to  undergo  any  sacrifice  for  the  honor  of  their  country. 
Language.  The  Spanish  is  chitlly  derived  from  the  Latin, 
and  resembles  it  more  than  the  French  or  Italian.  Many  of  the 
words  are  of  Arabic  and  some  of  Gothic  origin.  The  dialect  of 
Castile  is  by  far  the  purest.  The  Biscayans  speak  an  entirely  dif- 
ferent language  from  the  Castiiian.  It  is  of  Gothic  derivation. 
The  Asturian  dialect  is  said  to  resemble  it,  and,  in  a  Siiiaiiei-  de- 
gree, the  Gallician.  There  are  serious  varieties  in  those  of  the 
other  provinces. 

Literature.      During   the    long    Ruman    domination    Spain   re- 
ceived so  many  colonists  from   Italy,  that  she  became   at  lengfh 
61 


48.2  SPAIN'. 

scarcely  inferior  to  it  in  civilization  and  learning.     Some  of  the-" j 
best  Latin  writers  were  natives  of  Spain.     Under  the  caliphs  o^i 
Cordova   flourished   many    celebrated   writers.      The    Spaniards*- 
have  been  distinguished  for  their  success  in  compositions  of  gal- 
lantry, in   fables,  and  ingenious  fictions.     For  narrative  invention 
they  are  not  rivalled  by  any  European  nation.     The  plots  of  their 
fables,  their  comedies,  farces,  novels,  and  romances,  are  original  ;- 
and  have  been  borrowed  by   the  Italians,  French,   English,  and 
Germans.     Cervantes  will  always  be  the   first  model  of  satirical 
and  humorous  narrative. 

The  best   English   and  French  v/orks  on  morality,  history,  and 
philosophy  are  translated  into  Spanish.     In  philosophy  the  native 
authors  have  not  excelled.     For  some  time  past  the  nation  has  not' 
been  distinguished  by  its  progress  in  learning  or  science. 

Universities.     The  Spanish  universities  are  22  in  number.     Six 
of  these  were  devoted  to  the  education  of  young  men   of  family. 
The  university  of  Salamanca  has  a  library  of  more  than  20,000 
volumes,  and  in    1785   contained   1909   students.      The   logic  of'^ 
Aristotle,  and  the   theolop:y  of  Thomas   Aquinas  are  still  taughf 
in  all   the   universities.     There   are    academies  for  the   laws   of 
Spain,  for  the  canon   law,  and  for  medicine   at  Madrid;    for  the" 
belles  lettres  and  for  medicine  at  Seville  ;   an  academy  of  the  arts 
at  Valencia  and  Saragossa  ;  one  of  geography  at  Valladolid  ;  one  ' 
of  mathematics  and  drawing  at  Granada  ;  and  one  of  belles  lettres  ' 
at  Barcelona. 

Cities.     According  to  Hassel  there  are  in  Spain  145  cities,  4364"* 
bbrough  towns,  and  9293  villages. 

Madrid,  the  capital  of  Spain,  is  built  on   a  small  stream,  which 
empties  into  the  Xarama,  a  tributary  of  the  Tagus,  in  lat.  40  25  N. 
and  Ion.  3  12  W.  It  continued  an  obscure  town  in  Castile,  till  Charles 
V.  made  it  the  royal  residence      It  has  no  fortifications  nor  ditches^' 
being  only  surrounded  by  a  bad  wall  with   15  gales.     The   streets' 
are  not  at  right  angles  but  they  are  almost  all  straight,  wide,  clean,, 
and   well  paved.     Madrid   contains    18  parishes,   35    convents  of* 
monks,   31  of  nuns,  39  colleges  and  hospitals,   14,100  houses,  and 
156,672  inhabitants.     The  houses  are  chiefly  of  brick,  and  several' 
are  large  and  handsome.     The  r>Ianzanares,  which  runs  W.  of  the 
town,  a  small  distance  from  its  walls,  in  winter  is  a  torrent,  but 
dry  in  summer. 

Barcelona^  a  sea-port  of  Catalonia,  stands  on  a  plain  open  to 
the  S.  E.  but  protected  by  hills  on  the  N.  and  W.  It  is  surround- 
ed bv  a  double  brick  wall  with  14  bastions,  hornworks,  ramparts- 
and  ditches.  The  tov/n  contains  8  parishes,  111,410  inhabitants. 
The  inhalntants  are  industrious  and  hospitable.  The  women  are 
are  distinguished  for  their  beauty,  their  vivacity,  and  their  free- 
dom from  restraint.     The  harbor  is  spacious,  deep  and  secure. 

Valencia  stands  on  the  Guadalaviar,  about  half  a  league  from  itt, 
mouth.     The   streets  are  narrow  but  every  where  clean,  and  the 
appearance  of  the  town  is  pleasing.     Here  are   a  military   school,- 
a  public  library,  and  45   convents.     The  environs  of  the  city  are 
every  where  crowded  with  villages  and  orchards  in  the  midst  oP-' 


a'fertile  and  beautiful  country,  and  the  top  of  a  very  lofty  towep. 
^  in  the  city  gives  one  of  the  most  beautiful  prospects  in  Europe. 
Population,  105,000. 

Seville  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  large  circular  plain  on  the  south 
side  of  a  Guadalquiver,  54  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  surround- 
ed with  walls,  flanked  with  towers.  It  is  the  most  extensive  city  ia 
Spain,  and  contains  30  churches,  90  convents,  a  univcrsiij/,  several 
hospitals,  and  free  schools,  an  exchange,  and  a  mint,  and  80,568  in- 
habitants. When  Ferdinand  look  Seville  from  the  Moors,  it  is  said 
to  have  liad  a  population  of  400,000  souls.  Ferdinand  IV.  in  1757) 
established  in  this  town  a  royal  tobacco  manufactory,  at  an  ex- 
pense of- 3  0,000,000  rials.  The  chief  building  is  a  square  of  750 
feet,  two  stories  high,  constructed  of  a  white  stone.  From  i5u0  to 
2000  persons  are  here  daily  employed,  and  80  mills  are  worked  by 
100  horses  or  mules.  All  the  tobacco  of  Spain  is  prepared  here. 
The  Guadalquiver  is  navigable  by  ships  of  burthen  to  this  place  ; 
but  thence  to  Cordova  only  by  small  craft.  It  was  the  scat  of  the 
American  commerce,  till  1717,  when  it  passed  to  Cadiz. 

Cadiz  is  built  on  the  N.  W.  extremity  of  a  long  sandy  peninsula, 
which  is  connected  by  a  very  narrow  isthmus  with  the  isle  of  Leon. 
This  island  is  10  miles  in  length,  and  is  separated  from  the  con- 
tinent by  a  winding,  narrow  strait,  whiclv  at  its  N.  E.  end  opens  in- 
to the  harbor  of  Cadiz.  The  harbor  stretches  from  E.  to  W.  and 
opens  northwards  between  Forts  Matagordo  and  Lorenzo,  or  the 
Funialcs^'imo  the  bay  of  Cadiz,  EoUi  the  bay  und  harbor  are 
secure  and  spacious.  The  population  in  1802  v/as  only  57,S87. 
Thirty  years  before,  it  was  estimated  at  80,000,  and  in  1787  it  was 
67,987.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  foreigners.  Its  commerce 
employs  about  1000  vessels,  of  which  nearly  one  tenth  are  Spanish. 
The  exports  to  America,  in  1784,  amounted  to  £3,621,443  ster- 
ling; the  imports  in  money  and.  jewels,  to  ;C8j2y7,l 64  ;  and  in 
merchandize,  to  £2,990,757. 

G re ?2 a r/cr  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  snov/ -topped  Sierra  Nevada. 
The  streets  are  narrovr,  irregular,  and  badly  paved.  Few  of  the 
houses  are  splendid.  They  are  about  12,000  in  number,  and  the 
population  in  1787,  was  523845.  There  are  here  24  churches,  4 
-convents,  13  hospitals,  and  a  university.  Among  .V.l  their  losses  in 
Spain  the  Moors  are  said  to  lament  nothing  but  Granada,  and  in 
their  evening  prayers  they  supplicate  Heaven  to  restore  it  to  thcii- 
possession. 

Miircia  stands  on  the  N.  side  of  the  riverSegura,  about  20  miles 
from  the  Mediterranean,  in  a  delightful  valley,  25  leagues  long 
from  E  to  W.  and  a  league  and  a  half  broad.  The  town  contains 
6  parish  churches,  a  cathedral,  t&  convents,  and  a  large  library, 
but  not  a  single  inn.  The  population  is  44,000.  The  river  is 
decorated  with  a  fine  stone  bridge,  and  a  magnificent  quay. 

Sai-agossa  stands  in  a  fertile  plain,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the 
EbVo,  which  by  its  windings  renders  the  neighborhood  extremely 
rich  and  delightful.  The  streets  are  long  and  broad,  but  dirty  and 
•?il-paved.     Here  are  two  cathedrals,  15  parish  churches  and  10 


4t4  SPAIN. 

conA'ents  ;    also  some  distilleries,  and  tnanufactones  of  silks,  coj-^ 
tons,  and  hats.     Population  42,000. 

Malaga,  m  the  W.  part  of  Granada,  has  a  safe  and  cominodious: 
harbor,  protected  by  an  expensive  mound  running  1200  feet  into 
the  sea.  The  to\vn  stands  at  the  foot  of  a  high  mountain,  and  is 
small,  but  handsome.     It  contained  in  1808,  41,932  iiihabitants.* 

Fermi  is  a  strong  fortress,  and  seaport  on  the  bay  of  Corunna, 
•with  one  of  the  best  and  safest  harbors  in  Europe,  it  is  one  of  the 
stations  of  the  navy,  has  a  large  sea-arsenal,  the  most  important 
dockyards  and  sail-cloth  manufactories  in  the  kingdom,  and  a  large 
marine  hospital,  capable  of  receiving  5000  patients.  It  had  in 
J 793,  30,000  inhabitants,  and  a',  late  as  1752,  was  merely  a  collec- 
tion of  fishermen's  huts. 

Carthagena  is  in  Murcia.  The  environs  for  some  distance  are 
crowded  with  villages,  farms,  and  country  seats.  High  mountains 
and  barren  rocks  protect  the  town  on  the  S.  and  W.  On  the  No 
and  E.  it  is  open.  The  harbor  is  among  the  best  in  Spain,  deep, 
well  sheltered  and  well  defended  ;  and  affords  a  fine  fishery.  The 
streets  are  wide  and  the  houses  commodious.  They  have  flat 
roofs,  affording  an  agreeable  retreat  after  sunset.  In  the  naddle 
of  the  city  is  a  high  hill,  with  a  fort.  The  trade  is  in  silks  and 
barilla.  Esparto  ropes  and  cables  are  manufactured  here.  Pop= 
ulation  29,000.     This  is  a  station  of  the  royal  navy. 

Toledo,  in  New  Castile,  42  miles  from  Madrid,  is  built  on  a  rock 
of  granite  that  is  almost  surrounded  by  the  Tagus.  The  lOM^n  is 
large,  and  was  formerly  the  capital,  and  contained  200,000  inhab- 
itants. It  has  now  but  25,000.  The  Toledo  rapiers  were  once 
celebrated  for  their  temper,  and  the  secret  of  hardening  them  is 
said  to  have  been  lately  recovered. 

Valladolid,  in  Leon,  is  an  ancient  handsome  town  on  the  Pisu- 
crga,  containing  15  cliurches,  16  convents,  and  24,000  inhabitants. 
An  annual  fair  is  held  here,  and  the  streets  are  lively  and  full  of 
business. 

^licant,  in  Valencia,  is  built  between  a  mountain  and  the  sea 
and  is  well  defended  by  strong  bastions  ;  it  has  a  good  harbor,  and 
an  extensive  commerce.  Population  17,435.  Eiche,  a  few  miles 
southj  contains  17,403  inhabitants. 

Of  the  most  noted  smaller  towns  Bilboa  has  13,000,  Burgos 
10,000,  Badajos  10,000,  Lerida  1  6,818,  Pampcluna  14,054,  Sala- 
manca 15,000,  and  St.  Sebastian  12.000. 

Manvfactiirea  and  Commerce.  There  are  respectable  woollen 
manufactures  at  Segovia,  Seville,  Guadalaxai  a,  arid  several  other 
places.  Cotton  manufactures  arc  also  fc  und,  especially  in  Cata- 
lonia. The  silk  manufactures  are  the  most  importJr.t  and  flourish 
most  in  Catalonia  and  Valencia.  At  Carthagena,  Fenol,  and  oth- 
er places  are  considerable  linen  and  sail  cloth  manufactories  ;  but 
the  greater  part  of  these  articles  is  supplied  fiom  abroad.  Manu- 
factures of  kaiiicr  are  found  in  evciy  considerable  town,  and  most 
of  the  small  ones.     There  are  about  200  paper  mills  in  Spainj 

•  Hassel, 


/ 


SPAIN.  485 

the  most  and  best  in  Valencia  ;  where  china  is  also  manufactured, 
which  rivals  tiiat  of  Saxony.  The  salt-petre  works,  powder-nulls, 
and  tar  ovens,  yield  nearly  a  sufficient  supply.  Soi'.p  manufacto- 
ries are  found  every  where.  The  tobacco  manufactory  of  Seviilo 
is  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  best  dockyards  are  at  Seville, 
Malaga,  Alicant,  Barcelot>a,  and  St.  Sebastian  ;  and  siiip-building 
is  reviving  Salt  is  made  in  immense  (luanliiies  in  Valencia,  ancl 
Andalusia.  Manufactures  in  metals  are  almost  wholly  neglected. 
All  sorts  of  hardware,  and  most  of  the  furniture  and  tools  iliat  arc 
used,  are  imported  from  France  and  England. 

The  foreign  trade  is  mostly  carried  on  by  other  nations.  Spanish 
ships  sail  to  the  ports  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  to  ttie  colonies  of 
Spain.  The  chief  imports  are  hardware,  corn,  butter,  cheese,  fish, 
(upwards  of  ^C ' i000,o0O  sterling  annually.)  fiu'niture,  quicksilver, 
guns  and  other  arms,  tmiber,  linen,  sail-cloih,  cordage,  ilax,  liemp, 
wax,  paper,  millinery,  sugar,  and  spices.  The  chief  exports  are 
wool,  (nearly  £!,00(),00{)  sterling  annually,)  raw  and  manufactured 
silks,  wine,  raisms,  brandy,  figs,  lemons,  salt,  iron,  saffVon.  horses, 
tobacco,  cork,  soda,  barilla,  (i  50,000  quintals,)  rice,  (;^25O,00O 
sterling,)  saltpetre,  and  various  American  goods.  The  balance  of 
trade  is  greatly  in  favor  of  Spain.  In  1784  the  imports  from  A- 
merica  amounted,  in  money  and  jewels,  to  ;/^9, 29  1,237,  in  mer- 
chandize, to  ,^3, :H3,936,  the  exports  to  ^^4,348,078.  In  1796  the 
exports  to  Great  Britain,  were  ;^809,88l  ;  the  imports  4^546,(26. 

Climate.  Many  of  the  highest  mountains  are  covered  with  pe- 
rennial snow.  The  winter  is  very  mild  in  the  low  and  southern 
districts,  where  it  seldom  freezes  ;  but  in  the  higher  tracts,  the 
winter  is  often  as  severe  as  in  England  or  Germany.  Oii  the  Mcdf 
iterranean  the  sea-breeze  blows  every  day  Irom  9  till  5  o'clock ; 
and  pleasantly  tempers  tl^e  warmth  of  summer.  The  south  wind 
from  Africa  is  oppressive  and  unwholesome  ;  but  the  JN".  W.  wind 
from  the  mountains  of  Gallicia  is  cool  and  refreshing.  In  many 
parts  the  trees  rctean  their  verdure  all  the  year,  and  where  the  Ic?af 
falls  it  buds  again  in  January. 

Face  of  the  Counlrxj.  Spain,  next  to  Norway,  is  probably  tl>e 
most  mountainous  country  in  Europe.  The  western  part  of  Nevv- 
Castile  is  open  and  plain.  The  centre  of  Arragon  is  level  and 
sandy.  Valencia  and  the  northern  half  of  Murcia  consist  chiefly 
of  extensive  plains  and  valleys,  every  where  fertile  and  well  culti- 
vated. The  rest  of  the  country  is  rough  and  broken.  The  high- 
est mountains  are  chiefly  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  their  tops  are 
?ilways  while  with  snow.  The  lower  eminences  are,  still,  almost 
universally  forested,  and  in  this  respect  reseinble  the  mountains  of 
New-England.  The  rivers  and  streams  are  i^umerous,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  New-Castile,  the  country  is  well  watered. 

Hoil  and  Jlgriculture.  Tlie  soil  is  generally  light  and  rests  on 
beds  of  plaster  of  Paris,  which  is  itself  an  exeellent  manure.  Near 
the  shore,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  it  is  generally  more 
fertile  than  in  the  central  districts.  The  two  Castiles,  Biscay,  Na-r 
varre,  Arragon,  and  especially  Gallicia  and  Leon,  have  an  indif- 
ferent soil ;  yet  susceptible  of  high  fertility  under  skilful  and  yig- 


.^6  SPAIN. 

orous  husbandry.  Asturia,  Esiremadura,  and  the  Mediterranean 
■provinces,  especially  Andalusia  and  Valencia,  have  natively  an  ex- 
uberant feriility,  and,  with  moderate  cultivation,  yield  many  of  the 
luxuries  of  life.  In  the  vale  of  Valencia  wheat  yields  from  20  to 
40  for  one  ;  barley  from  18  to  24  ;  oats  from  20  to  20  ;  maize  100  ; 
And  rice  40.  The  provinces  on  the  Mediterranean,  exctpt  Anda- 
lusia, especially  Valencia  and  Granada,  are  under  high  cultivation, 
as  are  also  Gallicia,  Asturia,  Biscay,  and  Navarre.  The  agricul- 
ture of  the  other  provinces  is  much  neglected.  Leon  is  merely  a 
sheep-pasture.  Large  uncultivated  tracts  are  spread  over  New- 
Castile,  and  the  other  provinces.  The  vine,  the  olive,  maize, 
wheat,  rye,  barley,  hemp,  flax,  and  saflVon,  are  cultivated  in  every 
province.  The  best  wine  districts  are  New  Castile,  La  Mancha, 
in  particular  ;  Malaga,  Seville,  Cadiz,  Valencia,.  Arragon,  and 
Navarre.  Of  the  three  sorts  of  Malaga  wine,  Malaga,  Mountain., 
and  Teni,  about  30,000  ankers  are  yearly  exported;  and  of  the 
Xercs  or  S.hemj  wine,  about  20,0t'0  pipes.  This  is  made  at  Xeres 
de  la  Frontera,  10  miles  N.  E.  of  Cadiz.  A  great  part  of  the  wine 
made  in  Spain  is  distilled  into  brandy  ;  of  a  quality,  however,  much 
inferior  to  the  French.  The  best  raisins  are  made  of  the  grapes  of 
Malaga,  Alicant,  Valencia,  and  Granada.  Biscay  and  Asturia  a- 
bound  in  orchards,  and  make  the  best  of  cyder  in  great  quantities. 
The  northern  provinces  raise  great  quantities  of  cattle.  The  sheep 
are  of  two  kinds,  the  tra-uelling  or  Merinos,  estimated  at  5,000,000 
in  number,  and  the  stationary  at  8,000,000. 

Rivers.  The  only  large  river  that  falls  into  the  Mediterranean 
in  Spain,  is  the  Ebro,  the  ancient  Iberus.  Its  length  is  about  440 
miles.  It  begins  to  be  navigable  at  Tudela  ;  and  its  water  is  re- 
markable for  its  salubrity. 

The  Guadalquivir  runs  S.  W.  through  Granada  and  Andalusia, 
to  the  Atlantic,  about  20  miles  N.  W.  of  Cadiz.  Its  length  is  about 
340  miles. 

The  Gaudiana  runs  S.  W.  through  New-Castile  and  Estrema- 
dura,  to  Badajos,  where  it  enters  the  province  of  Alentejo  in  Por- 
tugal. Thence  its  course  is  S.  W-  and  then  S.  E.  till  at  length  it 
becomes  a  boundary  of  the  two  kingdoms,  separating  Algarve  from 
Andalusia,  and  falling  into  the  Atlantic,  after  a  course  nearly  equal 
to  that  of  the  Ebro      It  is  navigable  to  Mertola,  about  45  miles. 

The  Tagus  runs  W.  S.  W.  through  New-Castile  and  Estrema- 
dura,  to  Alcantara,  and  entering,  flows  through  Estremadura  to  the 
Atlantic  by  a  mouth  4  n\iles  broad,  forming  the  harbor  of  Lisbon. 
Its  course  is  rapid  and  the  upper  part  impeded  by  cataracts.  Its 
length  is  about  520  iniles,  and  it  is  much  the  largest  river  of  Spain. 
The  tide  flows  up  to  Santarem,  and  the  river  is  navigable  for  :flat 
vessels  about  120  miles. 

Tlic  Douro  runs  westward  through  Old  Castile  and  Leon,  to 
Miranda.  Thence  S.  W.  between  the  two  kingdoms,  about  &0 
miles,  separating  Leon  from  Tras-os-Montes.  Here  it  enters  Por- 
tugal, and  runs  westward  to  the  Atlantic,  into  which  it  falls,  a  little 
'♦.'^elow  Oporto.     Its  whole  course  is  about  400  miles. 


SPAII'T.  4«r 

The  Minbo  runs  S.  W.  180  miles  to  the  Atlantic,  into  which  it 
falls  15  miles  below  Tuy.  For  about  40  miles  it  constitutes  the 
northern  boundary  of  Portugal.  Its  waters  abound  with  excellent; 
salmon  and  sturgeon.  Its  current  is  gentle,  and  it  is  navigable  a- 
bout  25  miles.  A  bar  at  the  mouth  prevents  the  entrance  of  large 
vessels. 

The  Tinto  is  a  little  river  falling  into  the  Atlantic  about  25  miles 
N.  W.  of  the  Guadalquivir.  Its  water  is  said  to  be  of  a  deep  yel. 
low  color,  and  to  have  very  singular  petrifying  powers.  It  withers 
all  verdure  on  its  banks,  and  no  kind  of  fish  live  in  its  stream. 

Mountains.  The  Pyrenees  are  between  Trance  and  Spain  and 
have  already  been  described. 

The  Cantabtian  chain  is  but  a  continuation  of  the  Pyrcnean  chain. 
The  *Sierra  de  Molina  is  a  range  brasiching  from  the  Cantabrian 
in  Old  Castile,  and  running  J^.  E.  through  that  province,  and  be» 
tween  New  Castile  and  Arragon,  and  advances  towards  the  Medi- 
terranean in  the  N.  of  Valencia. 

The  mountains  of  Guadarama  break  from  the  last  mentioned 
chain  in  a  W-  S.  W.  direction,  separate  the  two  Casliles,  and 
crossing  the  northern  part  of  Estremadura,  enter  Portugal,  across 
which  they  run  in  a  S.  W.  direction  nearly  to  cape  Roca.  In  Por- 
tugal the  chain  is  called  *Serra  d'  Estrella. 

The  mountains  of  Toledo,  farther  south,  run  nearly  parallel  with 
these  betvveen  the  Tagus  and  Guadiana,  across  Estremadura  atid 
New  Castile,  and  unite  also  with  the  range  of  Molina. 

The  Sierra  Morena,  a  third  parallel  range  between  the  waters  o? 
the  Guadiana  and  the  Guadalquivir,  separates  New  Castile  and 
Estremadura  from  Andalusia,  and,  after  being  pierced  by  the  Gua» 
diana,  enters  Portugal,  and  serves  as  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
province  of  Algarve.  The  chain  in  Portugal  runs  from  E.  to  \V.  the- 
whole  width  of  the  kingdom,  and  is  called  Serra  de  Monchique. 

The  Sierra  Nivada,  or  Snowy  Mountains,  run  between  the  Gua- 
dalquivir and  the  Mediterranean,  nearly  parallel  with  the  laiterj- 
through  Andalusia  and  Granada  ;  and,  at  length  turn  north ward,i 
bounding  Murcia  on  the  W. 

Montscrrat,  or  the  Sawed  Mountain,  so  called  on  account  of  its 
jagged  pyramidal  summits,  lies  about  50  miles  N.  W.  of  Barcelona. 
It  is  a  detached  solilai-y  ruck  more  than  1 1,000  feet  high,  and  about 
lOl  miles  in  circumference,  from  the  top  of  which  INIajorca  and 
Minorca  are  distinctly  visible,  at  the  distance  of  50  leagues.  It  is- 
composed  of  limestone  and  grave!  united  by  a  calcareous  cement^^ 
A  large  convent  of  Benedictines  has  been  built  upon  it,  to  which  a 
miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  discovered  by  some  shep=- 
herds  in  380,  attracts  an  immense  number  of  pilgrims. 

Minerals.  Spain  was  anciently  celebrated  for  its  mines  of  gold 
and  silver,  which  were  long  wrought  by  the  Cartliaginians,  and 
proved  the  sinews  of  their  wars.  But  since  the  discovery  of  simi- 
lar mines  in  America,  those  of  Spain  have  not  been  worth  working;,. 

*  Sierra  in  Spanish,  and  Serra  in  Portuguese,  are  general  denominations  of 
chains  of  mountains,  the  successive  peaks  of  which  present  the  resemblance  cf. 
stsaw. 


488  SPAIN. 

and  now  lie  neglected.  The  iron,  copper,  tin,  lead,  and  quicksilver 
mines,  on  the  contrary,  are  worked  with  great  advantage,  though 
mostly  by  English,  French,  and  German  miners. 

SPANISH  ISLES. 

MA.TORCA,  Minorca,  and  Ivica,  the  ancient  Baleares,  are  the 
chief  Spunibh  isles  in  Europe. 

IMajorca,  the  iaryjesi,  lies  'octween  the  other  two,  23  miles  S.  W. 
of  Minorca,  46  N.  E.  of  Ivica,  92  from  Barcelona,  and  120  from 
Valencia.  It  is  35  miles  long,  and  46  broad,  containing  about 
1200  square  miles,  with  a  population  of  135,900.  TheN.W. 
part  is  hiily,  but  has  many  rich  and  fertile  tracts.  The  S  and 
E.  parts  are  laid  out  in  arable  lands,  pastures,  vineyards,  and 
orchards.  The  chief  productions  are  corn,  wine,  oil,  honey,  fruits, 
capers,  almonds,  figs,  saffron,  fish,  and  game.  The  capital,  Ma- 
jorca, not  long  since  called  Palma,  is  a  large  and  elegant  town,  on 
a  handsome  bav,  on  the  S.  W  coast.  It  has  a  good  harbor,  defend- 
ed by  three  citadels.  The  streets  are  broad,  and  the  squares 
spacious,  and  the  houses  are  well  built  of  stone.  It  contains  a  uni- 
versity, a  magnificent  cathedral,  and  22  other  churches,  6  hospit- 
als, an  exchange,  a  palace,  several  silk  and  woollen  manufactories, 
and  29,259  inhabitants.  The  governor,  the  audience,  and  the 
bisiujp  of  the  province  reside  here.  The  other  towns  are  Alcudia, 
32  miles  N.  W.  of  Palma,  with  7000  inhabitants,  and  Porto  Pedro 
on  the  S.  E  naving  a  safe  and  spacious  harbor,  defended  by  a  fort. 
The  climate  ot  the  island  is  warm,  but  healthy.  There  are  no 
rivers,  !)ut  excellent  and  numerous  wells  and  springs. 

Minorca  is  37  miles  by  14,  and  has  about  30,000  inhabitants. 
The  south  shore  is  smooth,  the  north  is  rugged,  with  deep  and 
swampy  vales,  and  many  creeks  and  inlets.  Mount  Toro,  in  the 
centre,  can  be  seen  18  miles  out  at  sea.  The  inhabitants  depend 
on  tlieir  cisterns  for  their  fresh  water.  The  soil  is  moderately 
fertile.  Tiie  annual  value  of  the  growth  of  the  vine  is  estimated 
at  30,000/.  sterling.  The  fishery  on  the  coasts  is  valuable,  and 
the  oysters  are  delicious.  T!ie  minerals  are  iron,  copper,  lead, 
and  marble,  and  great  quantities  of  salt  collected  in  the  cavities. 
Tlie  exports  are  wine,  oil,  wood,  salt,  and  cheese,  and  are  nearly 
balanced  by  the  imports.  The  inhabitants  live  mostly  on  vegeta- 
bles, have  a  turn  for  poetry,  and  are  still  celebrated  as  slingers. 
Port-Malion,  tlie  capital,  stands  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  on  an  ex- 
cellent harbor  on  the  S.  E.  side.  Civitadella  on  the  N.  W.  was 
formerly  the  capital.  Tlie  English  owned  Minorca  with  one  short 
iriterruption  from  1708  to  1781,  since  Spain  has  possessed  it. 

Ivica  is  15  miles  long  ajid  12  wide.  The  soil  is  fertile  and  pro- 
duces corn,  grapes,  figs,  and  other  fruits,  the  wild  olive  and  the 
pine.  The  inhabhanls  are  occupied  in  making  salt,  highly  es- 
teemed for  its  whiteness,  of  which  great  quantities  are  exported. 
Ivica,  the  capital,  is  on  the  S.  E.  side.  It  is  little  more  than  a 
garrison. 


PORTUGUESE  EMPIRE.  4«9 

THE  FORTRESS  OF  GIBRALTER. 

This  fortress,  thou t;h  a  part  of  Spain,  has  so  long  been  in  pos- 
session of  England,  that  a  separate  account  of  it  seems  to  be  prop- 
er. It  lies  at  the  southern  extremity  of  Spain  in  lat.  35  6  30  N. 
It  is  an  immense  rock,  rising  perpendicularly  about  440  yards, 
jTieasurinu;  2  miles  from  N.  to  S.  and  1  from  E.  to  W.  On  the  E. 
oi  the  rock  is  the  Mediterranean  ;  on  the  W.  Gibralter  bay,  a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water,  9  miles  lont^  and  5  broad,  receiving  several 
small  rivers,  more  than  100  fathoms  deep  in  the  middle,  and  well 
defended  av^ainst  every  wind.  This  'oay  makes  a  small  harbor  on 
the  N.  W  side  of  the  rock,  commodious  for  small  vessels.  The 
southern  extremity  of  the  rock  is  called  Europa  point.  The  town 
lies  along  the  bay  on  a  declivity  of  the  rock,  and  contains  about  500 
houses,  chiefly  of  stone  and  brick,  and  in  1806,  8500  inhabitants. 
They  are  supplied  with  fruits,  vegetables,  and  fresh  provisions 
from  the  coast  of  Barbary.  At  the  extremity  of  a  rock,  wliich  ad- 
vances into  the  sea,  is  a  large  fort  covering  a  mole,  made  to  facili- 
tate the  anchoring  of  vessels.  The  garrison  consists  of  about  5000 
men,  with  upwards  of  300  pieces  of  cannon. 

This  important  fortress  first  attracted  attention  as  a  place  of 
consequence,  in  712,  when  it  was  taken  possession  of  by  the  Moors-, 
v/ho  kept  it  till  1462.  In  July,  ir04,  the  English  under  Sir  George 
Rooke  took  it  from  the  Spaniards,  and  have  retained  it  ever  since. 
In  July,  1779,  commenced  the  celebrated  siege  by  the  combined 
forces  of  Spain  and  France.  The  reduction  of  the  fortress  was  a 
darling  object  with  the  former  power,  and  every  scheme  which  in- 
genuity could  devise,  which  rashness  could  hazard,  or  force  exe- 
cute, was  tried  by  the  besiegers  to  no  purpose.  The  siege  lasted 
till  February,  1783,  and  general  Elliot  and  his  brave  companions 
received  the  applauses  of  Europe* 


PORTUGUESE  EMPIRE. 

I.    In  Eur.ope. 
Portugal. 

2.     In   Asia. 
Goa  and  some  other  settlements  in  Western  Hindostan, 
Timor  Island. 
Macao  Island. 

3.     In  Africa. 
The  Madeiras. 
The  Azores. 
The  Cape  Verd  Islands. 
Territories  in  Congo. 
Territories  on  the  S.  E.  coast. 

4.     In  America. 
Brazil,  now  become  the  seat  of  the  empire. 

•  For  a  more  full   account  of  this  celebrated  fortress,   see  ih-  GaziHeer  ofth 
Eastern  Continent,  article  Gibralter. 
6^ 


490  PORTUGAL. 


PORTUGAL. 

Extent.  PORTUGAL  lies  between  lat.  36  56  34  and  42  7  S& 
N.  and  between  Ion.  9  35  30  and  6  W.  Its  length  from  N.  to  Si 
is  360  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth  in  the  N.  is  150  miles  ;  its  least,- 
in  Algarve,  90.  Tiie  area,  according  to  Ebeling,  is  35,998  square 
miles. 

Boundaries.  Gallicia  and  a  part  ox'"  Leon  in  Spain  lie  on  the  N. 
Leon  and  Estreinadura  in  the  same  kingdom  on  the  E,  the  gulf  of 
Cadiz  on  the  S.  and  the  Atlantic  on  the  \Y. 

Historical  E/iochs.  Portugal  was  a  part  of  Spain,  and  shared 
the  same  fate  under  the  Carthaginians,  the  Romans,  the  Vandalsj- 
the  Visigoths,  and  the  Moors.  lu  the  1 1th  century  it  began  to  be 
a  separate  state.  Since  that  period  its  chief  historical  epochs  are 
the  following  : 

1.  The  grant  of  Portugal  to  Henry,  a  grandson  of  Robert  I.  duke, 
of  Burgundy,  by  Alphonso  VL  of  Castile,  near  the  close  of  the 
1 1th  century. 

2.  The  erection  of  the  country  into  a  kingdom  by  Alphonso  I; 
son  of  Henry,  after  the  battle  of  Ourique,  in  1 139. 

3.  The  conquest  of  Algarve,  and  the  final  expulsion  of  the 
Moors  by  Alphonso  III.  in  1254. 

4.  The  discovery  of  the  passage  to  the  East-Indies  by  Vasco  de 
Gama,  in  1498,  in  the  reign  of  Emmanuel.  This  at  once  diverted 
the  trade  of  Asia  from  its  old  channel  across  the  isthmus  of  Suez, 
and  down  the  Red  Sea,  and,  at  a  stroke,  destroyed  the  commercial 
preeminence  of  Venice,  By  the  M'ise  and  resolute  measures  of 
their  magnanimous  sovereign,  the  Portuguese  in  24- years  erected 
a  commercial  empire  in  the  east,  which,  for  its  extent,  its  opulence, - 
and  its  splendor,  had  had  no  rival  in  the  history  of  nations.  In  the 
same  reign  Brazil  was  discovered,  and  taken  possession  of  by  the- 
Portuguese. 

5.  The  introduction  of  the  inquisition  into  the  kingdom  with  the 
consent  of  Johri  III.-  A.  D.  1526  ;  after  which  event  the  monarchy 
rapidly  declined  in  wealth,  in  power,  and  commercial  enlerprize. 

6.  The  idle  expedition  of  Sebastian,  tlie  son  of '  John  III.  into 
Africa,  in  1577,  where  he  and  his  army  v/ere  destroyed  by  Muley 
Moloch,  emperor  of  Morocco.  This  event  so  weakened  the  king- 
dom, that,  two  years  after,  Philip  11.  of  Spain  found  little  difficulty 
in  maintaining  !iis  right  to  the  throne,  and  thusthe  country,  in  I58O5 
again  became  a  part  of  Spain. 

7.  The  revolution  of  1640,  in  which  John,  duke  of  Braganza, 
•was  declared  king  by  the  title  of  John  IV. 

8.  The  invasion  of  the  country  by  the  French,  in  November, 
1807,  and  the  consequent  removal  of  the  Portuguese  government, 
and  a  great  multitude  of  the  nationvto  Brazil,  on  the  20th  of  that 
month.  Since  tliat  event,  the  English,  who,  from  the  marriage  of 
Charles  II.  with  the  princess  Catherine,  had  been  the  steady  allies 
of  Portugal,  have  driven  the  invaders  out  of  the  kingdom  ;  and  the^ 
Portuguese,  under  the  auspices  of  Wellington,  have  recovered  the 


PORTUGAL. 


491 


bravery  and  the  skill,  with  which  their  fathers  fought  against  the 
Spaniards  and  the  Moors. 

Divisions.  Portugal  is  divided  into  the  six  following  provinces, 
.which  are  geogrriphically  arranged  from  N.  to  S.  with  the  extent 
and  population  of  each,  as  given  by  Ebeling,  in  his  geography  of 
Portugal. 


Extent.     Population. 

I   1780 
2,389   817,167 

3,002;  308,984 
10,082' 1,1  23,245 

7,803  876,289 
10,520   339,555 

2,192        93,47--. 


Jurisd.         Cit.      Bor. 


isi,59r. 

>7 

3 

77,054 

224,649 

175,337 

76,246 

25,523 

4 

11 

11 

8 

3 

2 
7 
2 

4 
4 

760,40: 

44 

22 

24 

1,327 

59 

711 

230 

1,292 

115 

492 

105 

369 

114 

71 

647 

4,262 

Names. 

Entre  Doucro    ^ 
e  Minho,         5 
Tras-os-Montes, 
Beira, 

Estremadura, 
Alentejo, 
Algarve, 

Total 


Religion.  The  national  religion  is  the  Catholic,  and  the  Portu- 
.guese  have  been  characterized  for  ihtir  suict  observance  of  its 
ceremonial  duties. 

Government.  By  the  fundamental  laws  of  llie  kingdom  the  mon- 
archy is  hereditary,  and  in  case  of  tlie  king's  demise  wilhout  male 
issue,  his  next  brother  succeeds ;  but  his  sons  have  no  rigb.t  to  the 
throne  till  confirmed  by  the  states.  By  these  statutes  llie  mon- 
archy is  not  arbitrary,  for  the  consent  of  the  states  is  necessary  to 
the  imposition  of  new  taxes,  to  the  settlement  of  the  succession, 
and  other  important  concerns.  Since  the  removal  of  the  roy^l  fam- 
ily, the  government  has  been  administered  by  a  regency. 

Pofiulation.  The  population  has  been  stated  in  the  table  at 
3,558,712.  It  must  now  be  considerably  diminished  by  the  late 
removal  of  great  numbers  to  Brazil,  and  by  the  battles  and  massa- 
cres of  the  French  armies. 

Army.     In  1803,  the  army  amounted  to  86,027. 

A  much  larger  army, has  been  assembled  and  organized  since 
the  late  invasion,  and  the  troops  have  evinced  the  most  generous 
valor,  and  the  most  ardent  love  of  country. 

Navy.  The  ships  of  war  consisted,  in  1804,  of  13  ships  of  the 
-line,  of  from  60  to  80  guns,  15  frigates  of  from  24  to  48  guns,  and 
about  30  smaller  vessels,  of  various  sizes,  manned  by  12,000  ma- 
rines. The  greater  part  of  these  vessels  are  now  in  Brazil,  and  a 
part  are  still  in  Portugal. 

Revenue.  The  income  of  the  state  from  Portugal  and  the  colo- 
nies is  estimated  at  16,000,000  dollars,  and  the  debt  is  stated  to  be 
20,000,000. 

Jllminers  and  Cust07ns.  The  national  character  of  the  Portu- 
guese nearly  resembles  that  of  the  Spaniarils.  In  stature  the  Por- 
tuguese are  inferior  to  the  Spaniards.  Their  complexion  is  swarthy^ 
approaching  to  an  olive.  They  have  generally  graceful  forms^ 
regular  features,  and  dark,  brilliant,  expressive  eyes.  The  ladies 
are  very  beautiful  when  young.     They  still  imitate  the  industry  of 


492  ,  PORTLGx\L. 

their  ancestors  in  spinning  flax  from  the  distaff.  The  inhabiianta 
of  the  nonhevn  provinces  are  more  industrious,  intelligent,  sincere,^ 
and  hospitable  ;  those  of  the  southern  more  polished,  shrewd,  and 
indolent. 

Langauge.  The  Portuguese  language  strongly  resembles  the 
Spanish  ;  both  are  derived  chiefly  from  the  Latin  ;  but  the  lattei" 
is  more  remote  from  it  and  harsher  to  the  ear  tiian  the  former. 

Literature.  The  earliest  fashion  of  the  Spanish  poetry  was  de- 
rived from  Gallicia  and  Portugal.  The  present  fashion  of  both 
countries  is  of  Italian  origin.  Boscan  effected  the  change  in  Spainjw 
and  Sa  de  Miranda  in  Portugal,  both  early  in  the  16th  century. 
The  Lusiad  of  Camoens  settled  the  language  of  Portugal.  He  is 
their  first  poet,  and  though  miserably  poor  vy^hile  living,  he  is  now 
felt  by  the  nation  to  be  its  boast  and  its  pride.  The  translation  by 
Mickle  surpasses  the  original  in  richness  of  description,  but  not  in 
vigor. 

Amadis  de  Gaul  is  without  a  rival  among  prose  romances.  The 
Palmerin  of  Francisco  de  Moraes  is  a  sinular  work  of  great  merit.. 
In  the  Portuguese  sermons,  the  finest  oratory  is  spoiled  by  the 
most  fantastic  conceits.  The  lives  of  t!ie  saints  are  mere  romances. 
There  are  no  modern  travels  in  the  language.  Their  old  litera- 
ture is  rich  in  this  branch  of  knowledge.  Fernam  Lopez  is  the 
best  chronicler  of  any  age  or  nation.  Gomes  de  Azurcra  is  sur- 
passed only  by  Lopez.  These  have  been  icUowed  by  a  regular 
succession  of  historians  of  great  meiit.  The  Decadas  de  Asia  by 
Joam  de  Barros,  for  a  history,  display  an  uncoiumon  extent  of 
learning.  In  mathematics  Pedro  Nunnez  distinguished  liimself  at 
the  beginning  of  the  16th  century.  Of  late  years  natural  history 
begins  to  be  a  little  studied  ;  but  books  of  devotion  and  petty  poems 
constitute  the  bulk  of  the  yearly  productions  of  the  Portuguese 
press. 

Universities.  The  university  of  Goimbra  is  the  most, ancient. 
It  lately  contained  800  students,  and  had  a  good  observatory,  a  fine 
botanical  garden,  a  chemical  laboratory,  anatomical  theatre,  and  a, 
cabinet  of  natural  curiosities.  The  university  of  Evora  was  found- 
ed in  1553,  and  the  college  of  Mafra,  in  1772.  Tliis  last  hasa  phi- 
losophical apparatus,  and  a  library  of  40,000  volumes.  Education, 
Iiowever,  is  generally  neglected,  and  no  provision  is  made  for  the 
instruction  of  the  common  people. 

Cities.  LISEo^',  the  capital,  was  lately  the  second  city  of  Eu- 
rope in  commercial  importance.  It  st;inds  on  seven  hills,  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  Tagus,  not  far  from  its  entrance  into  the  sea, 
and  is  sheltered  on  the  N.  W.  by  a  ridge  of  hills.  The  harbor  isi 
one  of  the  best  in  the  world,  uniting  in  a  very  unusual  degree,  the 
four  qualities  of  size,  depth,  security,  and  convenience.  The  Ta-, 
gus  is  here  about  four  miles  broad,  and  has  two  outlets  separated 
by  a  sandbank,  and  the  rock  of  Cachopos,  and  defended  by  forts. 
Fort  St.  Julian,  1  I  miles  from  Lisbon  on  a  rock  in  the  sea,  detcnds, 
the  northern.  Opposite  to  it  is  the -Cz^^'/o,  which  is  built  on  piles 
on  a  sandbank.  The  fort  of  Belem  is  4  miles  from.  Lisbon  on  the 
Qorth  side,  and  entirely  commands  the  entrance  to  the  city.     Og. 


PORTUGAL.  49S 

ilie  south,  directly  opposite,  is  Foit  Sebastian  on  the  angle  of  a 
mountain,  all  along  which  the  passage  is  cktended  by  a  chain  of  12 
forts.  An  old  Moorish  wall,  with  77  towers  and  35  gates,  incloses 
the  eastern  part  of  the  city.  The  western  has  been  built  since. 
The  breadth  of  the  town  is  inconsiderable  ;  but  it  is  very  long  from. 
E.  to  W.  The  valleys  of  the  hills  form  streets  of  above  5  miles  in 
length,  most  of  them  narrow,  ill-paved,  and  diriy,  and  many  of  thcni 
steep  and  troublesome.  The  number  of  houses  is  44,037,  and  the 
number  of  inhabitants,  according  to  Ruders,  350,000.  The  com- 
merce of  the  city  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  foreigners. 

The  chief  exports  are  corks,  drugs,  dying  stuffs,  fruit,  oil,  pot- 
ash, law-silk,  brandy,  vinegar,  he.  Manufactured  goods  and  all 
sorts  of  provisions  are  imported. 

Opoh  ro,  the  capital  of  Entre  Minho  e  Douere,  and  the  second 
city  in  the  kingdom,  is  built  on  the  north  side  of  the  Douro,  about 
5  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  harbor,  formed  by  the  river,  is  diffi- 
cult to  enter,  but  spacious  and  secure.  A  single  castle  is  a  suffic- 
ient defence.  The  town  plot  is  uneven,  but  the  streets  arc  well 
paved,  neat,  and  handsome.  The  number  ol  inliabitants  70,505.  It 
contains  10  churches,  12  convents,  and  9  hospitals.  Here  are  con's- 
siderable  manufiictures  of  silks,  hais,  pottery,  and  several  rope- 
walks,  ai:d  dockyards  The  trade  of  the  city  is  extensive.  Morp 
than  500  ships  annually  enter.  The  imports,  in  \  790,  amounted  to 
^600,000  sterling,  and  the  exports  to  £800,000,  of  which  about 
80,000  pipes  of  wine  constituted  the  chiei  article. 

Elvas,  the  capital  of  Alentejo,  is  a  fortified  city,  14  miles  W.  by 
N.of  J3adujos.  It  has  a  castle  on  an  eminence,  and  is  commanded  by 
Fort  La  Lippe.  The  city  coiitains  12,500  inhabitants.  The  streets 
are  narrow  and  dirty,  and  the  houses  badly  built.  Here  is  a  re- 
markable aqueduct,  supported  by  3  arches,  one  over  the  other,  4 
miles  in  length,  which  conducts  the  water  into  a  very  large  reser- 
voir. At  some  distance  from  the  town  the  country  is  bleak  and 
barren. 

Braga,  in  Entre  Minho  e  Douero,  is  seated  in  a  pleasant  plain, 
cultivated  and  shaded  by  trees,  near  tlie  Cavado.  Several  of  the 
streets  are  wide  and  open,  but  the  houses  are  generally  small.  It 
contains  12,362  inhabitants.  Here  is  an  extensive  hat  manufacto^ 
ry,  which  supplies  the  greater  part  of  the  kingdom  ;  also  manu- 
factories of  linen  and  knives. 

St.  Ubes  is  situated  on  a  fine  bay,  into  which  the  river  Sadaom 
discharges  itself.  It  contains  12,000  jnhabitants.  About  500  sea 
vessels,  and  as  many  coasters,  enter  here  annually. 

Evora,  in  Alentejo,  stands  in  a  large  plain  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  mountains.     It  contains  14,200  inhabitants. 

Coimbra,  in  Beira,  contains  11,871  inhabitants.  A  strong  stone 
bridge   over  the   Mondego,  connects  the  two  parts  of  the   town. 

Manufactures.  The  hat  manufactory  at  Braga  is  the  most  im- 
portant establishment  in  Portugal.  The  same  aiticle  is  manufac- 
tured at  Oporto  and  Lisbon.  Silk  is  extensively  fabricated  at 
Oporto,  and  200  looms  arc  employed  in  weaving  the  velvets  of 
Praganza.     Woollens  are  made  at  Elvas,  and  hi  great  quantities 


49*  PORTUGAL. 

at  Covilhao,  for  the  army  and  the  court.  At  Azeitao  is  a  large 
establishment  for  fine  cottons.  At  Coimbra  and  Estremos,  earth- 
en ware  is  extensively  manufactured,  and  less  so  at  Oporto.  Linen 
also  is  made  at  Braga,  and  Coimbra,  thread  at  Braganza,  glass  of 
an  excellent  quality  at  Marinha,  salt  in  abundance  at  St.  Ubes,  and 
great  quantities  of  a  peculiarly  white  salt  at  Alcazar-do-Sol.  At 
Braga  there  is  also  a  manufactory  of  knives. 

Commerce.  The  trade  of  Portugal  is  principally  carried  on 
with  England  and  Brazil.  The  exports  to  England,  in  1799,  were 
i;  1,047,054  sterling  ;  the  imports  ^1,073  411.  In  1806,  468  ves- 
sels cleared  out  for  England,  and  332  entered  from  that  country. 
England  transmits  woollens,  hardwares,  cottons,  fine  linens,  salted 
fish,  to  the  amount  of  ^200,000  sterling  ;  and  receives  in  return, 
bullion,  coin,  precious  stones,  wines,  brandy,  and  fruits.  Portugal 
sends  to  Brazil  woollens,  linens,  stuffs,  gold  and  silver  lace,  glass, 
ilried  fish,  hams  and  sausages.  The  goods  returned,  are  gold, 
silver,  pearls,  precious  stones,  cotton,  dies,  indigo,  rice,  coffee, 
maize,  wheat,  ginger,  sugar,  molasses,  ornamental  wood,  and 
drugs.  The  other  exports  from  Portugal,  are  salt,  cork,  sumach, 
sugar,  oil  and  vinegar,  and  the  various  articles  rectived  from  Bra- 
zil. The  imports  from  the  United  States,  in  1806,  amounted  to 
about  1,925,000  dollars.  The  exports  to  France,  in  1801,  were 
about  1,937,000  dollars  ;  the  imports  about  734,000. 

Of  port  wine  about  48,000  pipes  are  annually  exported,  valued  at 
g4,20O,000  ;  of  Lisbon  10,000  pipes,  valued  at  500,000  ;  of  wool 
1,000,000  pounds  ;  of  oil  1200  pipes  ;  of  salt  2,400,000  bushels  : 
and  of  fruits  95  cargoes. 

Climate.  The  breezes  from  the  ocean  temper  the  cold  of  win- 
ter and  the  heat  of  summer  so  nnueh  as  to  render  those  seasons 
far  more  similar  here,  than  in  the  other  countries  of  Europe.  The 
climate  of  the  whole  country  is  unusually  salubrious.  The  num- 
ber of  clear  days  annually  in  Lisbon,  is  about  200,  and  of  settled 
rain  about  80.     The  medial  heat  is  about  60  of  Fahrenheit. 

Face  of  the  Coimtrij.  Portugal  is  a  far  more  level  country  than 
Spain.  None  of  the  provinces,  except  Tras-os-Montes,  can  pro- 
perly be  called  mountainous,  Alentejo  is  generally  level.  The 
Cithers  are  generally  diversified  by  hill  and  dale. 

Soil  and  .,4griculture.  The  soil,  like  that  of  Spain,  is  generally 
Jiglu  and  shallow,  but  capable  of  producing  abundantly  every  thing 
requisite  for  the  sustenance  and  comioit  of  man.  The  agriculture 
•of  Poi'tngal,  generally  is  much  neglected.  The  northwestern 
province,  however,  is  in  a  high  slate  of  cultivation,  as  are  the  val- 
leys of  the  northeastern.  The  chief  productions  are  corn,  maize, 
wine,  oil,  honey,  flax,  wool,  silk,  and  fruits. 

Jiiver^,  The  Minho,  the  Douro,  the  Tagus,  and  the  Guadia- 
na,  already  described,  are  the  principal  rivers  of  Portugal. 

Mountains.  The  Serra  Monchique,  the  northern  boundary  of 
Algurve,  is  separated  by  the  Guadiana  from  the  Sierra  Moxxna. 
it  is  merely  a  continuation  of  the  mountains  of  Toledo. 

The  Serra  d'Estrella  is  the  longest  chain  in   Portugal.    It  may 


ITALY. 


49» 


he  considered  as  commencing  at  the  Rock  of  Lisbon,  and   runs> 
N.  E.  through  Estremadura  and  Beira. 

Mineralogij.  The  mineralogy  of  Portugal  has  been  much  neg- 
lected. Gold,  in  small  quantities,  silver,  lead,  copper,  iron,  coal, 
emery,  fullers  earth,  antimony,  manganese,  bismuth,  arsenic,  and 
several  kinds  of  precious  stones  have  been  found  in  different  parts 
©f  Portugal. 

ITALY,  IN  GENERAL. 


Bou7idaries.  THE  Alps  divide  Italy  from  France,  Switzer- 
land, and  Germany  on  the  North  ;  the  Adriaiic  sea  bounds  it  on 
the  Northeast ;  on  the  South  and  West  it  is  washed  by  the  Medi- 
terranean. 

Extent.  Italy  lies  between  37  and  46  30,  N,  lat.  and  6  10  and 
18  35,  E.  Ion.  Its  greatest  length  is  740  miles,  and  its  greatest 
breadth  is  400.  The  contents  in  squai'e  miles,  exclusive  of  the 
islands,  is  95,585. 

Divisions.  The  whole  of  the  Italian  dominions,  comprehending 
Corsica,  Sardinia,  the  Venetian  and  other  islands,  before  the  late 
revolutions,  were  divided  in  the  manner  exhibited  in  the  following, 
TABLE. 

Countries  Names.  Chief  Cities. 

fPiccimont  Turin 

(  Savoy  Chambery 

To  the  king  J  Monserrat  Cassel 

of  Sardinia,  j  Aiessandrine  Alexandria 

I  Oneglia  Oneglia 

(^Sardinia  Island  Cagliari 

To  the  king  ^  Naples  Naples 

of  Naples.   ^  Sicily  Island  Palermo 

T.    ,,     -P       f  Milan  Milan 

fo  the  Em-  J  ,,  tvt     . 

J  ^^"'^"^  Mantua 

1         ■       I  MJi-anHoio  Mirandola 


[^  Mirandola 
Pope's  dominions 


Rome 


^  N.  lat. 
\  E. Ion. 


41  54 
12  45' 


To  their  re- 


f  Tuscany 
Massa 


spective 
princes. 


< 


Parma 


Modena 

Piombino 

[_Monaco 

r  Lucca 

Republics.  X  St.  Marino 

(_  Genoa 

To  England     Corsica  Island 

rr     ,,  fVenice 

To  the  re-     j^^^j^ 

VenicV    '^^'"'^"^P- 

i_Isles  of  Dahnatia 


Florence 

Massa 

Parma 

Modena 

Piombino 

INIonaco 

Lucca 

St.  Marino 

Genoa 

Bastia 

Venice 

Capo  d'lstri* 

Zara 


l" 


496  ITALt. 

Countries  Names.  Chief  Citle*,  ' 

fCtpliaionia  Cepl.alonisi 

Islands   in     j  Coifu,  or  Covcyria        Corfu 
the  Vene- J  Zant,  or  Zacynthus       Zant 
lian   do-     )  -St.  Maura  St.  Maura 

Little  Cephalonia, 
Itliacaolim 
The  present  divisions  of  Italy  will  be  seen  in  the  sequel. 
Hiatorical  Epochs.     1.  The  settlement  of  the  Etruscans,  a  colony" 
from  Lydia,  in  the  middle  of  Italy,  probably  before  the  Trojan  war. 

2.  The  building  of  Rome  by  Romulus,  about  750  years  before 
Ciirist,  and  the  establishment  of  the  monarchy,  which  lasted  243 
years. 

3.  The  burning  of  the  city  by  the  Gauls,  B.  C.  384. 

4.  The  commencement  of  the  first  Punic  war,  in  the  year  B. 
C.  263,  which  lasted  24  years,  and  was  the  first  which  the  Romans 
ever  waged  out  of  Italy. 

5.  The  second  Punic  war,  begun  in  2!8  B.C.  during  which 
Hannibal  inarched  into  Italy  over  the  Alps,  subdued  every  thing 
except  the  city  ;  but  was  at  length  defeated,  and  obliged  to  leave 
Italy  in  order  to  defend  Carthage.  There  he  was  vanquished,  and 
Carthage  reduced. 

6.  The  termination  of  the  republic,  and  the  assumption  of  the 
imperial  dignity  by  Julius  Caesar,  in  the  year  44  B.  C. 

7.  The  various  invasions  of  Italy  by  the  Goths,  in  the  beginning 
of  the  5lh  century  ;  of  the  Hunns  under  Attila  in  452,  and  that  of 
the  African  Vandals  Under  Genseric,  in  455. 

8.  Pepin,  king  of  France,  A.  D.  756,  invested  the  Pope  with  the 
exarchate  of  Ravenna,  and  various  other  territories,  which  had 
been  seized  by  the  king  of  the  Lombards,  and  thus  rendered  him 
a  temporal  prince^  who  governed  the  exarchate  by  an  archbishop. 

9.  Charlemagne,  in  770,  reduced  the  kingdom  of  the  Lom- 
bards. 

10.  The  distracted  state  of  Italy,  after  the  termination  of  the 
Carlovingian  dynasty.  The  country  became  the  scene  of  number- 
less civil  wars,  was  repeatedly  and  terribly  invaded  by  the  Hun- 
garians and  Saracens,  and  at  length,  in  961  fell  to  the  possession 
ofOtho  I.  emperor  of  Germany.  The  imperial  government  con- 
tinued Aviih  various  oppositions  and  interruptions,  but  on  the  whole 
unshaken,  till  the  time  of  Frederic  II.  who  died  in  1250. 

11.  Alter  the  loss  of  Italy  to  Germany,  various  unsuccessful 
attempts  were  made  by  the  emperor,  and  the  kings  of  France  and 
Spain  to  reduce  it  under  their  dominion.  For  more  than  two  cen- 
turies also  it  continued  the  scene  of  numberless  and  obstinate  wars 
between  the  various  petty  states.  At  length,  in  1809,  the  French 
came  into  possession  of  the  whole  country.  All  the  petty  states 
are  now  abolished.  One  third  of  the  country  is  annexed  to  France, 
and  the  northeast  formed  into  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  of  wiiich  the 
French  emperor  is  sovereign. 

Religion.  In  all  parts  of  Italy  the  Roman  Catholic  religion  is 
established,  and  in  many  parts  no  other  is  permitted. 


ITALY.  4^r 

Governine?its.  Before  the  late  changes  in  Europe,  Italy  con- 
tained almost  every  sptxies  of  government.  Its  present  govern- 
inents  are  not  easily  described. 

Language.  The  Italian  is  spoken  tluoughout  t!ie  whole  of 
Italy. 

Pofiulation.  The  whole  population  of  Italy,  coraprishig  all  the 
territories  described  undei- this  head,  according- to  Ilassel's  eati" 
mate,  whicii  is  deemed  the  most  correct,  is  16,i  17,000, 

Climate.  The  climate  of  the  north  of  Iialy  is  temperate  and 
healthy  ;  and  near  the  foot  of  the  Alps  the  v/inters  are  oticn  se- 
verely coid.  That  of  the  peninsula  is  very  warm.  The  central 
parts,  are  rendered  very  mdieaithy  by  tiie  nunjber  of  stagnant 
marshes.  The  heat  of  Naples  would  often  be  intolerable,  if  it 
were  not  for  the  regular  recurrence  of  sca-breez  s. 

Face  of  the  Country.  Italy  presents  every  variety  of  surface. 
In  the  peninsula,  on  both  sides  of  the  mauntains,  the  country  is 
sometimes  a  succession  of  iiiils  and  dales,  and  at  others  tlie  valleys 
widen  into  plains  of  singular  richness  and  beauty.  The  warmth 
of  the  climate,  the  richness  of  the  soil,  the  frequency  of  the  rains, 
and  the  number  of  brooks  and  rivers,  give  a  beauty  to  the  Italian 
landscape,  which  is  not  known  in  the  rest  of  Europe. 

Soil  aT.d  Agriadture.  Every  pait  of  this  country  possesses  a 
fertile  soil,  capable,  with  moderate  cultivation,  of  bearing  in  abun- 
dance all  kinds  of  grain,  vegetables,  and  fruits.  Lombardy  has 
been  styled  for  many  centuries  the  gardim  qf  Euro  fie. 

Rivers.  The  Po  is  the  largest  river  of  Italy.  Its  whole  length 
is  about  350  miles,  Notwiilistanding  the  Po  flows  chi(  fly  through 
plains,  yet  its  course  is  generally  rapid,  and,  wlien  swelled  by  the 
mountain  snows,  it  beconies  a  torrent,  inundating  the  neigliboiing^ 
country. 

The  Tiber  falls  into  that  part  of  the  Mediterranean,  which  is  call- 
ed the  Tuscan  sea,  below  Osiia.     Its  length  is  about  180  miles. 

The  Adige  fails  into  the  Adriatic,  about  12  miles  N.  of  tlie  Po, 
and  9-4:  S.  of  Venice,  after  a  course  of  210  miles. 

The  Arno  falls  into  the  sea  I  2  miles  N.  of  Lfghorn,  and  belowr 
Pisa,  to  which  it  is  navigable  in  small  vessels,  lis  length  is  about 
100  miles.  The  famous  Rubicon,  is  a  small  stream,  wiucli  forms 
the  southern  boundary  between  Italy  and  the  ancient  Cisalpme  Gaul. 

Lakes.  IMaggiore  is  about  27  miles  in  lengtb,  Ijy  3  in  l>readth. 
This  lake  contains  the  Boromean  isles,  celol -riled  by  msnv  travel- 
lers. Como  is  about  32  miles  in  length,  Gaida,  is  an  expanse  of 
about  30  miles  in  length  by  8  in  breaiith. 

Mountains.     The  Alps  liave  already  been  described. 

The  Appennines  branch  from  the  Maritime  Alps  near  Ormea.and 
run  N.  E.  at  no  great  distance  from  the  coast,  and  para  del  with  it, 
to  the  meridian  of  Gi.n'^a.  Thence  tlieir  course  is  E.  for  about  50 
miles,  and  thence  S.  E.  through  the  whole  peninsula.  These  moun- 
tains are  every  where  covereii  with  wood.  They  do  not  torm  one 
uninterrupted  level,  but  consist  of  distinct  hills,  the  micidie  regions 
of  which  meet  each  other,  while  you  have  an  open  prospect  of  the 
horizon  between  their  summits. 
63 


49^8C-  ITALY. 

Mount  Vesuvius,  a  solitary,  mountain  6  miles  E.  from  Napksi 
has  2  peaks.  The  north  peak  resembles  an  inverted  cone,  striking, 
the  eye  with  the  view  of  an  accumulated  mass  of  stones,  sand,  and 
cinders,  and  is  propei-ly  the  volcano.  It  is  3600  feet  above  ihe 
sea.  The  south  peak,  called  the  Somma,  does  n',t  exceed  3300.. 
The  circumference  of  Vesuvius  is  SO  miles.  The  circumference 
of  the  crater  is  half  a  mile. 

Arrangement.  We  propose  to  consider  Italy  accordini^  to  its- 
present  divisions.  The  western  part,  which  is  annexed  to  France, 
claims  our  first  attention  ;  then  the  kingdom  of  Italy,  in  the  east, . 
then  that  of  Naples,  in  the  south,  with  dependant  islands,  and  last- 
ly the  surrounding  islands  of  Sicily,  Sardinia,  Malta,  and  the 
Ionian  Republic. 

TERRITORY  OF  FRANCE  IN  ITALY. 

Situation.  THE  possessions  of  France  in  Italy  have  the  Alps 
on  the  west.  North  of  the  Po  they  reach  to  the  former  east  fron- 
tier of  Piedmont,  and  south  of  that  river  to  the  east  frontier  ot 
Parma.  The  line  runs  thence  nearly  south  to  the  territory  of 
Massa,  and  thence  nearly  E.  to  the  Adriatic,  passing  a  little  south 
of  St.  Marino.'  Their  southern  boundary  is  the  kingdom  of  Na- 
ples, which  has  the  same  limits  as  before  the  French  revolution. 

Extents  The  length  of  this-  territory,  is  400  miles.  The 
breadth  is  170. 

Pofiulation.     In  the  departments  made  out  of  Savoy  and  Pied- 
mont,  in  1808  the  population  was  2,857,916  ;    in  the  dutchies   of - 
Parma  aid  Piacenza,  about  240,000  ;    in  Lucca  and  Piombino, 
172,000;    in  the  kingdom  of  Etruria,    1,100,000;     Ecclesiastical 
State,  668,000,  or  about  5,040,000  in  the  whole. 

Cities.  Rome,  once  the  m-istress  of  the  world,  and  the  mother 
of  so  many  kings  and  heroes,  is  now  the  chief  town  of  a  French 
department.  It  stands  on  a  bend  of  the  Tiber,  15  miles  from  its 
mouth.  Over  the  river  are  6  bridges.  Almost  the  whole  of  the. 
city  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  ;  a  single  ward  is  on  the  other 
side.  The  city  is  1  3  miles  in  circumference,  surrounded  by  a  wall. 
The  walls  have  20  gates.  The  number  of  parishes  is  96,  of 
churches  300,  of  towers  as  many,  of  palaces  2200,  of  monasteries 
64,  of  nunneries  40,  and  of  hospitals  30.  By  a  census  taken  in 
1709,  the  population  was  138,568.  By  that  of  1797,  the  number- 
of  houses  was  35,900,  and  of  inhabitants  163,034. 

Genoa  stands  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  Genoa,  and  is  about  10 
miles  in  circuit.  A  double  wall  defends  it  on  the  land  side,  and 
several  bastions  are  erected  along  the  i>hore,  on  rocks,  which  rise 
above  the  water.  About  500  cannon  are  mounted  on  all  the  works. 
The  number  of  inhabitants  in  1789,  was  80,156.  The  harbor  is 
large,  but  not  safe.  The  light-house  is  on  a  high  rock,  at  the  west 
side,  and  is  one  of  the  loftiest  known. 

Florence,  in  Tuscany,  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  Appenines, 
on  both  sides  ofthe  Arno.  Four  stone  bridges  connect  the  two 
jjarls  of  the  city.     The  walls  are  6  miles  in  circuit.     This  city  is 


ITALY.  -^499 

decorated  with  150  churches,  89  convents,  18  halls  for  merth\nts, 
'72  courts  of  justice,  22  hospitals,  6  obelisks,  2  pyramids,  7  luuu- 
-  Jains,  17  squares  160  public  statues,  and  80,000  inhabitants. 

Turin,  in  Piedmont,  stands  on  a  plain  at  the  confluence  of  the 
.  Po  and  the  Doria.  The  houses  are  handsome,  and  are  cnicfly  of 
brick,  stuccoed.  There  are  130  churches  and  chapels  in  the  town, 
and  17  in  the  suburbs.     The  population  in  18^)2  was  73,716. 

Leghorn,  in  Tuscany,  comparatively  a  mouciu  city,  stands  on 
the  Tuscan  sea,  12  miles  S.  of  the  Arno.  The  number  ot  inhabit- 
ants is  58,000.  The  trade  consists  in  silks,  coffee,  cotton,  aniseed, 
alum,  essences,  wine,  oil,  fiue  wax,  and  straw  hats.  The  coffee- 
houses are  the  finest  in  Europe. 

Parma  is  unequally  divided  by  the  river  Parma,  which  falls  into 
the  Po,  !  2  miles  below  the  city.  It  is  4  miles  in  circuit,  and  de- 
fended by  a  citadel  and  regular  fortifications.  The  streets  are 
broad  and  straight,  the  houses  are  well  built  and  regular.  Here 
are  35  churches.     Inhabitants  35,000. 

Alessandria  is  on  tlie  Tenaro.     Inhabitants,  52,225. 

Lucca  is  delightfully  situated  in  a  beautiful  plain,  adorned  with 
villas,  villages,  and  vineyards.  It  is  regularly  fortified,  is  3  miles 
in  circuit.     The  houses  are  handsome.     Inhabitants  22,000. 

Pisa,  in  Tuscany,  stands  on  both  sides  of  the  Arno,  4  miles  from 
its  mouth.     Inhabitants  22,000. 


KINGDOM  OT  ITALY. 

Situation.  IT  has  the  Alps  W. ;  Naples  S.  ;  N.  it  has  Bavaria  ; 
:  E.  the  lUyrian  Provinces,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Isonzo 
river,  from  its  mouth  to  its  source. 

Comfionent  Parts.  This  kingdom  is  composed  of  the  dutchies  of 
Milan,  Mantua,  Mirandola,  and  Modena,  the  possessions  of  Venice, 
the  republic  of  St.  Marino,  the  Ferrarcse,  Eolognese,  and  Romag- 
na,  lately  a  part  of  the  ecclesiastical  state,  .ind  the  peiiinsula  of 
Istria,  and  territory  of  Dalmatia,  as  far  south  as  lat.  42,  on  the 
coast  of  Turkey. 

Dix'isioiis.  I.  West  Lombardy,  10,275  square  miles,  2,519,194 
inhabitants,  9  departments. 

IL  South  Lombardy,  11,485  square  miles,  1,922,554  inhabitants, 
2  departments. 

IlL  East  Lombardy,  9,350  square  miles,  1,630,179  inhabitants, 
7  departments. 

IV.  Dalmatia,  7,228  square  miles,  296,415  inhabitants,  5  dis- 
tricts. 

V.  Territory  of  St.  Marino,  30  square  miles,  and  7000  inhabit- 
ants, 

Govermne72t.  The  French  emperor  has  been  king  of  this  mon- 
archy, since  its  formation  hi  1805. 

Population.  The  population  of  Lombardy  contained  in  the  ta- 
ble is  the  result  of  the  census  in  ISoS  ;  that  of  D.i!inatia,  of  an 
enumeration  in    1804.      That  of  St.  Marino  is  merely  calculated. 


500,  ^.        ITALY, 

The  amount  of  the  respective  numbers  is  6,375,342.     Hassel  esti- 
mated the  population,  in  1809,  to  be  6,389,000. 

Army  and  JVavy.  The  army  consists  of  8  regiments  of  infantry, 
10  of  cavalry,  3  of  artillery,  1  of  invalids,  and  4 battalions  of  jjuardsj 
amounting  to  40,000  men.  The  navy  consists  of  3  ships  of  the  line, 
S  frigates,  aiid  16  smaller  vessels. 

lievenuex  The  revenue  of  1807  amounted  to  1 19,000,000  livres, 
or  14,690,000  dollars.  The  debt,  in  1809,  exceeded  20,000,000. 
dollars. 

Cities.  Venice  is  built  on  a  multitude  of  islands,  in  a  marshy 
bay  of  the  Adriatic.  The  town  stancis  5  miles  from  the  continent. 
The  buy  is  too  siiallow  for  large  vcsstis  to  pass  between.  This 
marsh  is  srparaied  from  the  Adi  iatic  by  some  islands,  a  few  miles 
from  the  tovvrj,  winch  break  the  force  of  the  high  winds,  and  ren- 
der the  bay  safe  and  quiet.  The  town  is  6  miles  in  circuit.  The 
streets  are  narrow,  and  the  freestone  pavements  ate  slippery  in  wet 
weather.  It  contains  70  parish  churches,  40  cl.apels.  1 8  oratories, 
54  monasteries,  26  convents,  17  hospitals,  53  squares,  188  public 
statues,  and  150  palaces.  The  houses,  15,000  in  number,  are  built 
with  littk-  taste,  and  generally  make  a  mean  appearance.  The 
population  is  137,240.  Numerous  natural  and  artihcial  canals  in- 
tersect the  city.  Over  these  there  are  about  500  bridges,  the 
largest  of  which  is  the  Rialio,  over  the  middle  of  the  great  canaL 
Scarlet  cloths,  silks,  looking-glasses,  and  gold  and  silver  stuffs  arc 
extensively  manufactured. 

Milan  stands  in  a  fruitful  and  pleasant  plain,  near  the  Adda.  It 
is  ten  tniles  in  circumference.  There  are  here  230  churches,  40, 
monasteries,  50  nunneries,  numerous  hospitals  and  religicus  iraler- 
nities,  and,  in  1805,  128,862  inhabitants. 

Bologna  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  plain,  at  the  foot  of  the  Appen- 
nines.  The  population  in  1805,  was  65,420.  The  Bologna  hams, 
sausages,  and  dried  tongues,  are  celebrated.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  agreeable  cities  in  Italy. 

Verona  lies  in.  a  plain  on  both  sides  of  the  Adige,  over  which 
there  are  4  stone  bridges.     The  population,   in  1806,   was  55,887. 

Padua  is  on  a  tributary  of  the  Brenia.     Population  34,000. 

Brescia  stands  on  a  beautiful  plain,  on  the  Garza.  The  nunibci" 
of  inhabitants,  in  1805,  was  41,972. 

Modenu  is  built  betw^een  the  Secchio  and  Panaro,  and  surround- 
ed by  fortifications,  in  1805,  the  population  was  26,884.  Tasso 
and  Corregio  were  born  at  Modena.    / 

Ferrara  stands  on  a  branch  of  the  Po,  and  is  4  miles  in  circum- 
ference. Ti,e  number  of  churciies  is  100,  and  of  convents  38. 
In  1805,  the  population  v.'as  24,444.  Ariosto  lies  buried  here,  and 
Tasso  here  wrote  his  '>■  JerusaU  m  Delivered." 

Pavia  stands  in  a  beauiitul  plain,  on  the  Tesino.  It  contains 
23,2:7  inhabitants,  19  churches,  and  38  convents. 

Mantua,  the  birth-place  of  Virgil,  stands  on  a  lake,  formed  by 
the  Mincio,  which  is  10  miles  long  and  2  broad.  There  are  39 
churches,  1 1  oratories,  and  40  conveJits,  witiin  the  walls;  arid  5 
churches  and  7  convents  in  the  suburbs.   The  population  is  30,243. 


ITALY.  5Qi 


KINGDOM  OF  NAPLES. 

Extent.  THIS  kin^^dom  lies  in  the  soiilhern  extremity  of  Ita- 
ly. On  the  Adriatic  it  reaches  to  lat.  42  50  N.  on  ihe  Mcditena- 
iiean,  to4l  15.  The  greatest  lens^th  is  about  320  miles;  the 
breadth  varies  from  100  to  50.  The  number  of  square  miles  is 
31,505. 

Di-oidon.^.  Naples  is  divided  into  12  provinces,  Avhich,  with 
their  population  in  1789,  as  given  by  Gaianli,  are  as  follows  : 

Adriatic  Provinces.  Mediterraneaa  Provinces. 

Farther  Abruzzo  2.>8,000  Furi;:c  r  CaiuDiia  408,000 

Hither  Abruzzo  227,000  Hither  Calabria  345,000 

Moiise  159,000  Basilicata  477,0(jO 

Capitanata  364,000  Terra  di  Salerno  481,000 

Terra  di  Bari  289,000  Terra  di  Lavora         1,245,000 

Terra  d'OtrantO  293,000  Central  Province. 

Piincipatu  Ultra  335,000 

History.  In  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century,  king  Frederic 
resigned  this  kingdom  to  Louis  XII.  on  being  created  count  of 
Anjou  ;  but  the  French,  in  1  504,  were  compelled  by  ihe  Spaniards 
to  evacuate  the  country.  From  that  time  till  1707,  tliey  retained 
it,  when  the  emperor  took  it,  and  kept  it  till  1734.  Then  the 
Spaniards  recovered  it,  and  kept  it  till  the  year  18()6,  when  the 
king  withdrew  to  Sicily,  which  he  still  retains,  an<i  Joseph  Bona- 
parte took  possession  of  Naples,  who  resigned  it  for  tlie  kingdom 
pf  Spain,  and  was  succeeded  by  Murat. 

Religion  The  inquisition  v/as  never  established  at  NLif)les. 
The  catholic  religion  was  esiablislied ;  but  protefrtants  had  consid- 
erable privi'^ges.  Before  the  late  revolution,  one  third  of  thq 
"whole  property  of  the  kingdom  was  estimated  to  belong  to  tiic  ec- 
clesiastics. Naples  then  had  21  archbishops,  and  110  bishops. 
The  whole  Humber  of  the  clergy,  in  iSOo,  Mas  72,000. 

Govermncnt.  The  former  kings  were  ifearly  despotic,  as  are 
their  successors. 

Po/iulation.  The  royal  calendar  for  1803  gives  the  population 
of  Naples  at  4,963,502. 

.^rmy  and  A'avy.  In  1 809,  the  number  of  troops  was  2  1 ,600  na- 
tional troops,  and  30,000  French  auxiliaries.  At  that  time  only  3 
frigates,  and  a  few  galleys  and  gun-boats,  amounting  in  all  to  8  sail, 
remained  of  a  navy,  which,  in  1790,  had  4  sail  of  tlie  line,  8  fri£»-- 
ates,  and  27  smaller  vessels,  and  Avas  manned  by  2874  marines. 

jRevemie.  The  revenue,  in  1808,  aniounted  to  about  9,880,000 
dollars  ;  the  expenditure  nearly  equalled  it ;  and  the  debt  amount- 
ed to  about  26,000,000  dollars. 

Cities.  Naples,  the  sepulciire  of  Virgil,  stands  at  tiie  head  of  a 
large  harl-or  of  the  Tuscan  sea,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the 
world,  of  a  nearly  circular  shape,  and  12  miles  in  diameter.  The 
walls  are  only  9  miles  in  circuit,  but  the  circumference  of  the 
whole  town  is  18.     The  streets  are  generally  broad  and  well  paved, 


-502  ITALY. 

Few  towns  are  better  built  than  Naples.  Most  of  the  houses  are 
5  and  6  stories  high,  with  flat  roofs,  on  which  are  placed  numbers 
of  flower  vases,  or  fruit  trees,  in  boxes  of  earth.  The  town  contains 
149  convents,  45  hospitals,  106  churches,  130  oratories,  and  5  sem- 
inaries for  ecclesiastics  ;  and  in  1789,  412,489  inhabitants. 

Taranlo  is  built  on  a  small  peninsula,  at  the  head  of  the  gulf 
of  Taranto.  The  harbor  was  once  excellent ;  it  is  now  too  shallow 
■  to  admit  any  thing  but  fishing  boats.     Poptdation,  in  1789,   18,457. 

Reggio  is  in  farther  Calabria,  nearly  opposite  Messina.  Popu- 
lation 16,439. 


KINGDOM  OF  SICILY. 

Siti;atio?7.  SICILY  is  an  island  in  the  Mediterranean,  separated 
.from  Naples  by  the  straits  of  Messina,  which,  in  the  narrowest  part, 
are  only  3  miles  across. 

Exttnt.  The  length  of  the  island  is  170  miles.  Its  breadth 
varies  from  120  to  50,  and  will  average  about  80.  The  number  of 
square  miles  is  12,880, 

Divisions.  The  following  are  the  Sicilian  territories,  with  their 
population,  as  given  in  the  royal  calendar  of  1803. 

Val  di  Mazzara  643,000 

Val  di  Demona  521,000 

Val  di  Noto  459,000 

Lipari  Islands  1 8,000 

^egaiian  Islands  12,000 

..Pantallarea  I.  ^            3,000 


1,656,000 


'Religion.  yThe  Roman  Catholic  is  established,  but  Jews  are 
tolerated.  There  are  2  archbishoprics  and  7  bishoprics.  A  sove- 
reign ecclesiastical  tribunal  judges  of  all  matters  and  disputes  in 
which  the  clergy  are  concerned.  The  number  of  churches,  con- 
vents, and  religious  foundations,  is  considerable  ;  the  buildings  of 
which  are  handsome,  and  the  revenues  great. 

Government.  The  monarchy  is  hereditary,  but  not  absolute. 
The  parliament  consists  of  clergy,  nobles,  and  deputies  from  some 
of  the  towns.  The  archbishops,  bishops,  abbots,  and  priors,  to  the 
number  of  66,  constitute  the  spiritual  arm,  229  nobles,  the  military 
arm,  and  43  representatives  of  free  towns,  the  demaniale  arm. 
Out  of  each  arm  four  deputies  are  chosen  to  transact  business.  No 
tax  can  be  imposed  without  the  consent  of  the. parliament. 

Population.     See  table  of  divisions. 

.Arjny  and  JVavy.  In  1809,  the  number  of  regular  troops  was 
>  0,000  men,  country  militia  8000,  and  a  body  of  British  auxilia- 
ries. The  navy  at  that  time  consisted  of  1  ship  of  the  line,  2  frig- 
.ates,  and  5  Smaller  vessels. 

.Revenue.    The  revenue  amounts  to  about  2,670;000  dollars,  of 


ITALY.  5f5B! 

Wiiich  about  1,080,000  arise  from  the  royal  domains,  and  the  land- 
tax.  Hassel  also  gives  an  estimate  of  the  whole  value  of  moveable 
and  immoveable  property  in  the  island,  amounting  to  1 1 1,612,400 
dollars. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  Sicilians  arc  described  as  bigoted 
Catholics.  They  have  always  discovered  an  ardent  love  of  liberty. 
They  are  animated  in  conversation,  and  in  the  art  of  gesticulation 
excel  even  the  French.  Their  women  have  remarkably  beautiful 
hair,  they  marry  very  young,  and  early  lose  their  beauty.  Both 
sexes  have  very  dark  complexions.  Both  sexes  are  amorous,  and 
there  is  perhaps  less  chastity  here  than  in  Italy. 

iJttrattire.     There  is  a  university  at  Catania,  the   only  one   in 
the  island.     It  has  professors  of  languages,  mathematics,  philoso- 
phy, law,  physic,  natural  history,  botany,  horsemanship,  fencings, 
and  dancing.     There  is  also  a  college  in  the  same  town  for  the  ed- 
ucation of  nobles. 

Cities.  Palermo,  in  the  Val  di  Mazzara,  is  the  capital  of  the 
island,  and  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  the  gulf  of  Palermo,  on  the 
north  coast.  The  harbor  is  large,  and  dangerously  open  to  the 
swell  of  the  sea,  and  its  entrance  is  defended  by  two  strong  cita- 
dels. The  population,  in  1792,  was  120,000.  Its  commerce  is 
extensive,  and  it  has  important  manufactures  of  silk  and  woollen. 

Messina  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  a  little  south  of  the 
straits,  and  6  miles  from  the  opposite  coast.  It  has  a  spacious 
harbor,  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  esteemed  one  of  the  best  in  the 
Mediterranean,  being  5  miles  in  circumference,  and  very  deep,  and 
the  quay  belonging  to  it  extends  a  mile  in  length.  The  popula- 
tion, according  to  Siolberg,  is  36,000.  Provisions  are  very  pientv.,  ■ 
and  I'ents  are  almost  gratuitous.  The  chief  manufacture  is  that  of 
silks.     The  commerce  is  extensive. 

Catania  is  50  miles  S.  of  Messina,  near  Mount  Etna.  It  is  built, 
walled,  and  paved  with  lava,  by  which  tlie  city  has  been  repeatedly 
overwhelmed.  The  principal  streets  are  long,  broad,  and  straight. 
It  contains  about  40,000  inhabitants. 

Modica,  near  the  S.  E.  cape,  contains  23,500  inhabitants. 

Syracuse  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  about  35  miles  S.  S.  E* 
of  Catania.     It  has  a  noble  harbor,  which  is  strongly  fonifted.   The 
number  of  inhabitants  is  17,044.     The  cathcchal  is  an  ancient  tem- 
ple of  Minerva.     Syracuse  was  the  scene  of  the  exertions  of  Ar- 
chimedes. 

Manufactures  and  Cominerce.  Silk  is  the  most  iraportan'„ 
manufacture.  Palermo  employs  900  looms,  Messina  1200,  and. 
Catania  still  more.  Vvmes  are  made  in  every  part  of  the  country. 
The  salt-pans  of  Trapani  are  the  most  productive.  Corn  is  the 
staple  of  the  island,  and  immense  quantities  are  exported.  Silk  is 
the  second  source  of  riches.  The  annual  value  sevit  out  of  the  isl- 
and is  about  ;^200,000  sterling.  Girgenti  exports  the  most  al- 
monds. Two  thousand  chests  of  oranges  are  annually  sent  from 
Messina,  and  8,000  of  pickled  lemons,  and  as  naany  more  from  the 
rest  of  the  island.  Two  hundred  and  eighty  barrels  of  lemon 
juice,  and  27  cwt.  of  bergamot  juice,  are  exported.     Pistachio 


\0i  ITALY 

nuts  and  carob  beans  are  also  an  article  of  trade.  The  ^iciliah 
Commerce  has  always  been  shackled  by  a  ciuiy  on  exports. 

Cirmate.  The  weather  is  bO  warm,  even  in  January,  that  the 
shade  is  lound  refreshing.  No  chilling  v/inds  are  felt,  except  a 
few  days  in  March.  The  summit  of  jEtna  presents  the  only  ap- 
pearance of  winter.  The  air  however  is  wholesome,  and  the  sea 
breezes  of  summer  are  highly  refreshing.  The  Sirocco  or  warm 
wind  from  Africa,  is  very  contmon  in  tlie  early  part  of  the  day. 
Though  attended  with  a  slight  current  of  air,  yet,  when  it  pre- 
vails, the  Avaves  of  the  sea  f(;am  and  roar  unceasingly.  It  brings 
humidity  :  the  clothes  adhere  to  the  body,  the  limbs  lose  their 
strength,  and  the  mind  its  energy. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  In  fertility  of  soil  probably  Sicily  is  not 
surpassed  by  any  country  on  the  globe.  It  produces  wheat  and 
other  grain  spontaneously.  Its  plains,  at  present,  without  inclo- 
sures,  without  manure,  and  almost  without  culture,  rival  in  their 
fertility  the  rich  fields  of  the  Netherlands  and  of  Lombardy. 

Rivers.  These  must  of  course  be  small,  and  are  few  in  num- 
ber. The  Salso,  in  tiie  north  part  of  the  island,  flows  S.  about  70 
miles  to  the  African  sea,  as  it  is  called,  near  Alicata.  Its  waters 
are  rendered  salt  by  the  salt  springs  of  Castro  Giovanni.  The 
Giarcita  rises  on  the  N.  side  of  ^tna,  and  passing  the  west  skirts 
of  the  mountain,  fails  into  the  sea,  S.  of  Catania. 

Mountains.  A  series  of  elevated  land,  passes  from  the  west- 
ern extremity  of  the  island  to  the  promontory  of  Peiorus,  called 
the  Felortin  chain. 

Mount  ^tna  is  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  island,  called  Vai  di 
Demone,  from  a  notion  that  the  numerous  caverns  of  ^tna  are 
inhabited  by  demons,  and  other  wicked  and  miserable  beings. 
The  figure  of  the  mountain  is  that  of  an  obtuse  truncated  cone, 
extended  at  the  basCj  and  terminating  in  two  eminences,  at  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  each  other.  The  circumference  of  the 
mountain  is  180  miles;  its  height,  according  to  Sir  George 
Shuckburgh,  10,954  feet,  and  the  circumference  of  the  visible 
hoi'izon  on  tiie  top  of  ^Elna,  1093  miles.  Over  its  sides  are  scat- 
tered 77  cities,  towns,  and  villages.  From  Catania,  which  stands 
at  the  foot,  to  the  summit,  is  ZO  miles,  and  the  traveller  passes 
through  three  distinct  climates,  or  zones,  tlie  cultivated.,  the  vjuodij, 
and  the  desert.  The  lowest  or  cultivated  zone,  extends  through 
an  interval  nf  ascent  of  16  miles.  Its  cii-cumference  is  estimated 
at  180  miles,  and  its  area  at  220  square  leagues.  The  feitility  of 
this  region  is  wonderful,  and  its  fruits  are  the  finest  in  the  island. 
Its  lava  flows  from  numerous  small  mountains,  dispersed  over  the 
immense  declivity  of  iElna,  of  a  conical  form,  about  2  or  3  miles 
in  circuit,  and  300  or  400  feet  higli.  The  woody  region  forms  a 
zone  of  the  brighest  green  all  round  the  mountain.  It  reaches 
about  8  miles  up  the  mountain,  is  80  in  circumference,  and  com- 
prehends a  surface  of  45  square  leagues.  The  trees  are  unusu- 
ally verdant  and  stately,  and  consist  of  various  fruit  trees,  the 
haw^th.orn,  chesnut,  oak,  beech,  and  pine.  The  desert  region  is 
marked  by  a  circle  of  snovir  and  ice,  and  extends  6  miles  from  its 


ITALY,  S5* 

border  to  the  summit.  It  is  generally  flat  and  even.  The  sum- 
mit itself  is  a  plain  covered  with  scorise  ashes  and  sand,  and 
■with  snow  and  ice.  The  cold  here  is  benumbing,  and  the  wind 
often  tempestuous.  The  upper  edges  of  the  crater  of  the  south- 
ern summit,  when  vi&iied  by  Spallanzani,  were  broken  and  in- 
dented, and  formed  an  oval  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circuit,  the  longest 
diameter  of  which  was  from  E  to  W.  Its  internal  sides  formed 
an  irregular  funnel,  and  abounded  with  concretions  of  muriate  of 
ammonia  The  bottom  of  the  crater  was  nearly  an  horizontal 
plain,  about  two  thirds  of  a  mile  in  circuit,  in  which  there  was  an 
aperture  about  5  rods  in  diameter.  Within  this  was  a  liquid  ig- 
nited matter  undulating  and  boilii^g,  and  through  it  a  column  of 
dense  white  smoke  ascended  perpendicularly  about  20  feet  in  di- 
ameter. The  northern  eminence  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  higher, 
and  has  a  crater  about  half  as  large  as  the  other. 


SICILIAN  ISLES. 

Lifiari  Islands.  THESE  islands  produce  alum,  sulphur,  cinna- 
bar, and  nitre,  corn,  almonds,  currants,  figs,  and  raisins,  wines,  and 
contain  13,000  inhabitants.  Lipari,  the  largest,  is  uf  an  irregular 
shape,  about  18  miles  in  circumference.  It  is  healthy  and  fertile, 
and  exports  corn,  wine,  almonds,  figs,  raisins,  sulphur,  alum,  and 
bitumen.  Here  are  some  noted  hot-springs.  Lipari,  the  capital, 
is  a  bishop's  see,  and  strongly  fortified  by  nature  and  art. 

■  Mgatian  Islands,  These  lie  at  the  western  end  of  Sicily,  near 
Trapani.  They  are  three  in  number,  Lavenzo,  Maretavno,  and 
Favignana.  They  are  all  lofty.  They  produce  corn,  cheese,  good 
wine,  and  figs,  and  pomegranates,  and  breed  rabbits  and  th© 
chamois.     Population  12,000. 

Fantalaria,  is  half  way  between  Sicily  and  Cape  Bon,  and  about 
60  miles  from  each.  It  is  25  miles  in  circuit,  abounds  in  hills, 
woods,  corn  fields,  wines,  oil,  fruits,  vegetables,  and  particularly 
in  cotton.  The  inhabitants,  3000  in  number,  breed  m.iny  cattle 
and  goats.     They  are  industrious,  and  are  excellent  seamen. 


KINGDOM  OF  SARDLMIA. 

This  island  is  1 60  miles  long,  and  70  broad,  and  contains  9420 
square  miles. 

It  is  divided  into  four  provinces,  which  with  their  population 
in  1780,  follow. 


Names. 

Situation. 

Population. 

Towns. 

Cagliari 

S.  E. 

115,541 

Cagliari 

Arborea 

S.  W. 

130,974 

Oristano 

Gallura 

N.  E. 

71,428 

Terra  Nuova 

Logodori 

N.  W. 

133,544 

Bassars. 

64 

30®  ■  ITALY: 

The  king,  in  1792,  lost  his  continental  dominions,  and  removed-- 
to  Sardinia.     The  nearness  of  Corsica  renders  him  little  more  than 
a  tributary  of  France. 

The  religion  is  the  Roman  Catholic.     There  are  3  archbishop-  • 
rics  and  4  bishoprics,  and  the  clergy  enjoy  great  immunities  and 
emoluments. 

The  i^overnment  is  an  absolute  monarchy.  The  number  of  in- 
habitants in  1788,  was  456,990.  Many  of  the  nobiiity  and  others 
removed  with  the  government  from  the  continent  ;  and  Hassel 
estimates  the  population  in  1809  at  520,000.  The  number  of  reg- 
ular troops  was  then  4000,  besides  a  considerable  number  of  coun- 
try militia.  The  revenue  also  was  then  644,750  dollars.  The 
Sardinians  are  represented  as  proud,  ignorant,  and  indolent.  The 
nobility  are  exempt  from  taxes,  and  for  all  offences,  except  trea- 
son, are  tried  by  seven  of  their  peers.  While  they  riot  in  wealth 
and  luxury,  the  lower  classes  are  plunged  in  indigence  and  slave- 
ly.     The  language  is  the  Spanish. 

Cagliari  is  the  capital.  It  stands  in  the  S.  at  the  head  of  the  hay 
of  Cagliari.  The  population  is  about  50,000,  and  the  commerce 
is  considerable.  The  harbor  is  large,  deep,  and  safe  sheltered  by 
an  island,  and  defended  by  a  castle  and  battery. 

Sassari  is  in  the  N.  W.  oti  the  river  Tarres,  7  miles  from  the 
sea.  It  contains  several  churches,  16  convents,  and  30,000  inhab- 
itants.    In  the  neighborhood  are  mines  of  gold  and  silver. 


MALTA. 

Malta,  is  an  island  in  the  Mediterranean,  30  miles  S.  -from  the 
coast  of  Sicily.  The  island  is  a  rock  of  fine  free  stone,  of  an  ova! 
figure,  20  miles  by  12,  and  60  in  compass,  and  contains  134  square 
miles. 

'    The  religion  is  the  Catholic.     The  island  is  now  a  colony  o£^ 
England.     The  population,  as  given  by  Hassel,  is  74,705  ;  of  Goz- 
so,  a  neighboring  island,    12.464;    and   of  Comino,  603.     Total 
87,772.     The  three  islands  contain  8  cities,  6  towns,  33  villages,  . 
and  10,966  houses.     There  are  on  these  islands  numerous  coun- 
try seats. 

Valette,  the  capitxil,  is  surrounded  with  a  strong  wall.  It  stands 
upon  a  very  large,  safe,  and  commodious  harbor,  having  several 
bays,  and  defended  by  Fort  Ricasoli,  and  the  celebrated  castle  ot 
St.  E'mo.  This  last  stands  ou  ilie  point  of  a  peninsula,  separating 
the  harbor  of  Valette  from  another  on  the  right,  and  commands 
them  both.  It  contains  several  churches  and  convents,  a  large 
hospital,  and,  in  1798,  23,680  inhabitants.  The  palace  and  St. 
John's  church  would  ornament  any  city  in  Europe. 

Civita  Vecchia,  the  only  other  town  of  any  size,  stands  on  a  hill 
in  the  middle  of  the  island,  and  is  strongly  fortified.  It  is  a  bish- 
op's see,  contains  several  churches  and  convents,  and  5000  in- 
habitants.    Every  village  has  an  elegant  church,  adorned  with  > 


ITALY. 


■507 


-statues,  tapestry,  and  plate.     The  soil  is  only  about  8  or  10  inQhes 
deep,  and  lies  on  the  rock. 

One  side  of  the  island  is  of  a  great  height,  and  perpendicular. 
The  fortifications  of  the  other  sides  are  a  most  stupendous  work. 
The  ditches,  of  a  vast  size,  are  all  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and 
extend  many  miles  in  length. 

Gozza  lies  to  the  N.  W.  of  Malta,  contains  40  square  miles, 
several  good  harbors,  and  strong  forts,  and  is  fiHiitful.     Comingo 
,  lies  between  them,  has  a  fort,  and  covers  3  square  miles. 


IONIAN  REPUBLIC. 


THIS  cluster  of  islands  received  this  name  from  the  French 
.  government,  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Refiublic  of  the  Seven 
Islands,  and  sometimes  the  Ionian  Islands.  They  were  captured 
dn  1811,  by  the  British,  having  till  then  enjoyed  a  nominal  inde- 
pendence, under  the  protection  of  France^  to  wluch  they  were  ceded 
by  Russia  in  1807.  Russia  took  them  from  France  in  1799,  and 
France  from  Venice  in  1 797.  Venice  had  then  had  possession  of  them 
from  the  year  1224,  except  that  the  Turks  took  them  in  1479, 
and  kept  them  20  years.  These  islands  lie  in  the  Ionian  sea,  S.  E. 
of  the  straits  of  Otranto,  and  near  the  coast  of  Turkey.  Their 
number  is  very  great,  but  seven  more  particularly  deserve  our  no- 
tice. Tiicse  are  arranged  in  the  tollowing  table,  geographically, 
beginning  with  that  farthest  north. 


Names.         Ancient  Names.    Sq.  Miles.       Population. 


Corfu 
Paxo 

Sta.  Maura 

Cephalonia 

Theaki 

Zante 

Cerigo* 


Corcyra 
Paxos 
Leucadia 
Cephalonia 
Ithaca 
•  Zacynthus 
Cythera 


219 
34 
110 
350 
66 
88 
98 


65,000 
6,000 

16,000 

55,000 
7,000 

30,000 
8,000 


Towns. 
Corfu 

Amaxichi 

Argostoli 

Theaki 

Zante 

Cerigo. 


965 


187,000 


The  climate  is  warm,  but  healthy ;  the  land  generally  fertile  and 
;  productive. 

•  Corfu,  the  largest  town  in  these  islands,  is  fortified  and  defended 
-by  two  forts,  contains  12,000  inhabitants,  has  a  good  harbor,  and 
■  carries  on  a  considerable  trade.  Zante  on  the  east  coast  of  the 
►  island  contains  12,000  inhabitants. 


Cerigo  lies  directly  S,  of  the  Morea,  at  a  small  distance  from  its  coast. 


TURKISH  EMPIRE. 


TURKISH  EMPIRE. 


THE  Turkish  Empire  is  ceniial  to  the  Eastern  Continent,* 
embracing  a  portion  of  Europe  and  Asia  ;*  and  having  been  the 
acene  of  most  of  the  transactions  recorded  in  the  Bible,  is  doubt- 
less the  most  interesting  portion  of  the  world.  Its  divisions,  ac^ 
cording  to  Hassel,  follow. 


Square  Miles. 

Inhabitants. 

I.  ly  Europe, 

217,758 

9j882,VJ00 

I,  Moldavia 

19,178 

420,500 

2,  Bessarabis,  or  Bud-    "> 
ziac  Tartary            y 

8,92a 

200,000 

■    3,  Wallachia 

24,658 

950,000 

4,  Servia 

20,165 

960,(/0a 

5,  Bosnia 

1 6,000 

850,00» 

1,  Bosnia  Proper 

9,863 

3,  Herzegovina,  or  > 
Dalmatia          y 

4,383 

3,  Bielogrod 

1,751 

($,  Bulgaria 

38,23r 

1,800,000 

7,  Rumelia,  or  Romania 

53,990 

2,200,000 

8,  Albania 

48,526 

1,920,000 

1,  Macedonia 

15,780 

700,000 

2,  Albania  Proper 

15,210 

207,000 

3,  Janna,  or  Thcssaly 

3,618 

300,000 

4,  Livadia 

6,('28 

249,000 

5,  Morea 

7,890 

464,000 

%  Province  of  the  Cap-> 
tain  Pacha                3 

1,863 

240,000 

1,  Province  of  Gailipoli 

833 

100,000 

3,  Negropont 

482 

40,000 

3,  Tino 

66 

24  8nO 

|40,000  to  45,000.  Langden. 

4,  Santorina 

I2,"0() 
[30,000.  Langdon.. 

5,  Andros 

12,1)00 

6,  Naxia 

8,000 

7,  Lemnos 

8,000 

8,  Thermia 

6,000 
{3000.  Langdqn, 

9,  Siphnos 

5,000 

10,  Nio,  or  Dios 

3,700 

10,  Candia,  or  Crete 

4,318 

281.000 

H.  In  Asia, 

53l,775t 

11,090,000 

I,  Anatolia,  or  Asia  Minor 

279,213 

6,000,000 

2,  Scham,  or  Syria 

50,105 

1,500,000 

•  According  to  Hassel,  Egypt  in  Africa,  is  included  in  the  Turkish    Empire. 
"J-  The  correctness  of  the  number  of  square  miles  ia  the  Turkish  Dominioni 
£a  A»i»  ^ad  Africa  is  doabtedi 


TURKEY  IN  EUROPE.  50» 


Squai-e  Miles. 

Inhabitants. 

3) 

Algeziia,  or  the  upper  ? 
part  ot"  Mesopoiuinia  ^ 

37,808 

800,000 

*, 

Saiabago,  or  Caucasus 

28,100 

300,000 

5, 

Irak  Arabi,  or  the" 
lower  part  of  Mes- 

opotamia, aiicl   the  )> 

69,040 

1,040,000 

country  around  the 

Persian  Gulf 

6, 

Curclistan 

32,572 

500,000 

r, 

Armenia 

54,937 

950,000 

TURKEY  IN  EUROPE. 

Extent.  THE  length  of  Turkey,  from  Cape  Matapan  to  the 
northern  limit  of  Moldavia,  is  about  870  miles.  Tho  greatest 
breadth,  from  the  western  boundary  of  Bosnia,  to  the  Black  sea, 
is  about  600.  The  exitnt  of  coniinentai  Tuikey  is  stated  by  Han- 
sel, at  212,410  square  miles;  while  the  European  Turkisii  islands 
are  estimated  at  5348. 

Boundaries.  Bounded  N.  by  Austria  and  iiussia;  E.  by  Rus- 
sia, the  Black  sea,  the  straits  of  Constantinople,  the  sea  ot  Mar- 
mora, the  Dardanelles,  and  the  Archipelago;  S.  by  the  Mediie- 
ranean  ;  W.  by  tne  same,  the  Adriatic,  Venetian  Dahnatia,  and  a 
part  of  Austrian  Croatia. 

Religion,  The  Mahometan  is  the  established  religion  of  Tur- 
key ;  but  at  least  two  thirds  of  the  inhabitants  are  Greek  Christians. 

The  Mufti  ov  S/ieik-Islam,  is  the  head  of  the  Mahometan  rclig» 
ion.  He  is  appointed  and  may  be  deposed  by  the  Sultan,  and  is  the 
second  subject  in  the  empire.  He  resides  at  Constantinople,  and 
is  the  head  of  the  Ulemoy  a  body  highly  respected  and  powerful, 
the  guardians  of  the  religion  and  interpreters  of  the  laws.  These 
possess  the  most  lucrative  employments,  are  secure  from  the  ex- 
tortions of  office,  and  cannot  be  put  to  death  witiiout  the  consent  oi 
the  Mufti ;  while  tlunr  property,  at  their  decease,  passes  as  a  right 
to  their  heirs.  In  the  larger  mosques  there  are  preachers  ;  rea- 
ders, who  recite  the  prayers  ;  persons  who  summtm  the  people 
together,  and  sextons.  In  small  parishes,  the  imam  performs  all 
these  dudes,  and  is  sometimes  the  village  schoolmaster. 

The  dervises  are  an  entirely  distinct  order  from  tlie  imams,  or 
priests.     There  are  two  classes  of  them. 

The  patriarch  of  Constantinople  is  the  head  of  the  Greek  church, 
enjoys  an  ample  revenue,  and  claims  precedency  of  the  patriarchs 
of  Antioch,  Jerusalem,  and  Alexandria.  He  is  chosen  by  the  arcii- 
bishops.  The  oflice  is  uniformly  set  to  sale,  and  bestowed  on  the 
highest  bidder.  The  inferior  clergy  are  bishops,  archimandrites, 
abbots,  arch-priests,  priests,  and  deacons.  The  Greeks  have  few 
BVJnneries,  but  numerous  convents. 

Qovernmcnt,    Mahomet  himself,  like  Moses  and  Joshua,  sus« 


StO  TURKEY  IN  EUROPE. 

tained  the  double  character  of  a  military  chief  and  an  inspired  le- 
gislator.  His  orders  and  regulations  were  professedly  the  dictates 
of  inspiration.  His  successors,  the  Saracen  califs,  claimed  a  high 
sanctity  of  character,  as  descendants  of  the  Pi  ophet,  and  as  guar- 
dians and  expositors  of  the  law.  The  Ottoman  emperors,  at  the 
suppression  of  the  talifat,  separated  the  temporal  and  spiritual  au- 
thorities. 

The  empire  is  governed  by  a  code  of  laws,  called  multekuy  found- 
ed on  the  precepts  of  the  Koran,  the  oral  law,  usages  and  ©pinions 
<of  tlie  Prophet,  and  the  sentences  and  decisions  of  the  early  califs 
anddoctois.  This  code  regulates  alike  religious,  civil,  criminal, 
political,  and  militaiy  affairs.  On  matters  unprovided  for,  the  sul- 
tan pronounces  as  the  good  of  the  state  demands.  The  sultan  is 
the  sole  fountain  of  honour  and  of  office,  and  claims  to  be  the  pro- 
prietoi  of  all  the  immoveable  v/ealth  of  the  empire.  He  has  the  ab- 
solute power  of  lift  and  death,  and  exercises  it  over  his  ministers 
and  governors,  with  military  severity  and  promptitude. 

The  sultan  usually  has  little  to  do  with  the  administration  of  the 
governments.  His  substitute,  the  grand  vizir,  has,  under  the 
grand  scignor,  absolute  authority.  He  is  president  of  the  divan, 
or  supreme  council. 

Pojiulation.  Pinkefton  calculates  the  population  of  Turkey  in 
Europe,  at  8,000,000  ;  while  Hassel's  estimate  is  9,822,000. 

Arivy.     The  Political  Journal  for  1804,  c^uoted  by  Hassel,  gives 
the  following  estimate  of  the  Turkish  forces. 
I.   Infantry. 


Janizaries 

40,000 

Artillery 

20,000 

Provincial  do. 

80,000 

Frontier  troops 

50,000 — 190,000 

Cavalry. 

Spahis 

20,000 

Provincial  cavalry 

75,000 

Prontier  do. 

12,000 — ior,ooo 

Total,        297,000 

JYavy.  The  navy,  in  1806,  comprised  20  ships  of  the  line,  15  frig- 
ates, and  32  smaller  vessels,  carrying  2156  guns,  and  4000  marines. 

Eevenue.  Hassel  estimates  the  public  revenue  at  30,000,000 
guilders,or  15,555,000  dollars.  The  revenue  of  the  sultan,  arising 
from  tiie  royal  domains,  escheats,  presents,  and  extortions  from  the 
rich  christians,  and  from  public  officers,  cannot  be  exactly  ascer- 
tained, but  far  exceeds  the  above  amount. 

The  national  debt,  in  1803,  is  stated  at  106,700,000  guilders,  and 
the  debts  then  due  the  government,  at  17,066,480  piastres,  or  about 
15,300,000  dollars. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  morals  of  the  Turks  are  loose  in 
the  extreme,  and  lewdness,  in  its  worst  forms,  is  common  through- 
out Turkey.  Both  sexes  are  distinguished  for  cleanliness,  and 
bathing  is  one  of  their  stated  amusements.  The  public  baths  are 
elegant  and  noble.     The  Turks  are  fond  of  conversation,  story- 


TURKEY  IN  EUROPE.  S^FfS 

Idling,  dramatic  exhibitions,  dancing  and  gladiatorial  shows.  Most: 
of  their  time,  however,  is  spent  in  smoking;  and  chewing  opium, 
and  in  the  indulgence  of  the  reverie  which  they  occasion.  The 
miserable  tenants  of  the  haram  resort  also  to  these,  as  amusements, 
when  tired  of  their  embroidery,  their  singing,  dancing,  and  music. 
Games  of  chance  are  forbidden  by  the  Koran,  but  chess  and  draughts 
are  universally  played.  The  period  of  mourning  is  very  short,  and 
the  corpse  is  buried  on  the  day  of  decease. 

The  Greeks  are  gay,  witty,  and  cunning.  Those  on  the  coast 
carry  on  almost  all  the  navigation  of  the  emph-e.  Those  in  tlie. 
interior  pursue  agriculture  witli  a  degree  of  spirit  and  inteiligence. 
The  rich  are  well  informed,  supple  and  intriguuig.  They  arc 
generally  superstitious,  timid,  and  exact  observers  of  holidays. 
Their  priests  are  numerous.  The  superior  clergy  are  well  edu- 
cated and  rich  ;  the  inferior  are  poor  and  ignorant. 

The  Armenians-  are  all  tradesmen,  and  are  the  most  intelligent 
of  the  professsion  in  Turkey.  They  travel  into  the  interior  of  Asia 
and  India,  and  are  patient,  economical,  and  indefatigable.  They 
are  at  the  same  time  ignorant  and  superstitious. 

Language.  The  Turkish  language  originally  was  far  front 
being  copious,  and  a  great  proportion  of  its  words  is  derived  from 
other  oriental  dialects.  The  arrangement  of  the  words  is  remarka- 
bly inverted.  A  distinguished  critic,  comparing  the  three  western 
languages  of  Asia,  speaks  of  the  Persian  as  excelling  in  sweetness 
and  melody  ;  the  Arabic  in  copiousness  and  strength,  and  the  Turk- 
ish in  gravity  and  dignity.  The  first  is  the  language  of  love,  the 
second  of  eloquence  and  heroism,  the  last  of  narration  and  in- 
struction. 

Literature.     The  Turkish  poetry  is  entirely  oriental  in  its  char- 
acter.    The   Turks  have  many  historians,  but  the  ignorance  they 
discover  of  geography  and  chronology,  renders  their  works  of  lit- 
tle value.     Astrology  is  still  cultivated  with  the  utmost  assiduity. 

The  mode  of  education  among  the  Turks  is  completely  in  the 
ancient  style.  They  study  the  logic,  philosophy,  and  metaphysics 
of  the  dark  ages.  They  are  ignorant  of  the  modern  improvements 
in  chemistry,  agriculture,  and  natural  philosopiiy.  In  astronomy, 
they  barely  know  how  to  calculate  eclipses,  with  a  moderate  degree 
of  accuracy.  Medicine  is  still  considered  as  a  species  of  sorcery. 
Their  surgery  is  rude  from  want  of  science,  of  skill,  and  of  instru-"- 
ments. 

Cities  and  Towns.  Constanlinojile  v/as  built  on  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  Byzantium,  by  Constariiine  the  Great.  It  stands  at  the 
piouth  of  the  Thracian  Bospliorus.  The  houses  rise  gradually 
from  the  shore,  like  the  seats  of  an  amphitheatre.  Most  of  tiiem 
are  meanly  built  of  earth  and  wood,  and  none  exceed  two  stories  in 
height.  The  streets  are  long,  narrow,  dirty,  and  badly  paved.  The 
seraglio  occupies  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  city,  and  is  supposed  to  cover 
the  whole  of  the  site  of  the  ancient  Byzantium,  and  to  contain 
10,000  iuhabitants.  A  wall  36  feet  high,  separates  it  from  the  rest 
of  the  city,  with  which  it  has  communication  l)y  9  gates.  It  is^ 
above  6  miles  in  circumference,  including  the  gardens,  and  is. an? 


5X2  TURKEY  IN  EUROPE. 

assemblai^e  of  palaces  and  apartments,  placed  by  the  side  of  eack 
olber,  without  synnntiry  or  order.  The  Harem  is  that  part  of  the 
seraij^iio  appropriated  to  the  females  of  the  imperial  family.  The 
Greeks  have  22  churches,  besides  the  patriarchal  church  ;  the 
Armenians  have  an  archbishop  and  3  cliurches ;  the  Roman  Cath- • 
oiics  have  6  convents,  and  the  Jews  several  synagogues.  There 
is  also  a  Sv^cdish  Lutheran  church.  There  are  in  Constantinople 
518  seminaries  of  learning,  1250  schools,  and  35  public  libraries, 
some  of  whicii  contain  15.000  volumes.  Hassel  states  the  number 
of  houses  to  l)e  88,185  ;  and,  following  Eaton,  estimates  the  num- 
ber of  inhabitants  at  300,000.  Olivier  says  the  population  exceeds 
500,000.  Probably  the  calculation  of  Dailoway  is  more  correct 
than  these.  Fie  says  that  there  are  2( '0,000  Turks,  100,000  Greeks, 
and  100,000  Jews,  Armenians,  and  Europeans.  The  city  has  suf- 
fered often  and  severely  by  the  plague  and  by  fires.  The  trade  of 
the  city  is  chic  fly  in  the  hands  of  the  Jews,  Armenians,  and  Greeks  ; 
and  the  navigation  is  carried  on  by  Europeans,  who  are  all  con- 
founded under  the  general  name  of  Franks. 

J^ /ill i/ifiU  on  the  river  Maritz,  was  founded  by  Philip  of  Macedon. 
The  number  of  inhabitants  in  1790    was    120,000.     I.at.  42  22  N. 

yJdriano/iie,  stands  also  on  the  Maritz,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Tunsa  and  the  Harda.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  about 
100,000,  and  the  commerce  is  very  extensive.  It  is  the  see  of  the 
Greek  archbishop,  and  often  the  residence  of  the  grand  signior 
during  the  plague.     N.  lat.  41  41,  E.  Ion.  26  27. 

SalojiikU  called  T/iessalovica,  stands  at  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of 
Salonica,  in  Macedonia,  in  the  N.  W.  corner  of  the  Archipelago. 
The  number  of  inhabitants  is  62,000.  This  town  has  always  beea 
distinguished  for  its  commerce. 

Byicharest^i  the  capital  of  Wallachia,  stands  upon  the  Dembro- 
vitz,  a  tributary  of  the  Danube.  The  streets  are  paved  transverse- 
ly, with  planks  of  wood,  badiy  fastened,  and  much  decayed.  Here 
is  a  singular  number  of  churches  and  convents.     Population, 42,000. 

Belgrade^  ti>e  capital  of  Servia,  stands  on  a  side  hill,  at  the  con- 
flux of  the  Save  with  the  Danube.  Population,  30,000.  The  for- 
tifications of  Belgrade  formerly  very  strong,  were  demolished  in 
1739. 

Athens.^  or  Athinia,  or  Setines,  is  the  see  of  a  Greek  archbishop, 
with  a  revenue  of  £i000,  sterling,  and  is  inhabited  almost  exclu- 
sively by  Greeks.  It  stands  on  the  N.  E.  coast  of  the  gulf  of  En- 
gia,  with  a  safe  and  large  harbor,  narrow  at  the  entrance,  and  com- 
manded by  the  citadel.  Silk,  wax,  wool,  and  oil,  are  the  chief  ex- 
ports. The  Athenians  are  still  distinguished  by  the  subtlety  and 
acuteness  of  their  understandings,  and  are  more  polished  in  their 
manners  and  conversation  than  their  neighbors.  The  population 
is  12,000  souls.  The  monuments  of  ancient  art  remaining  in  this 
city,  are  probably  unrivalled  in  their  magnificence. 

AFanufactiire.s  and  Commerce.  The  Turkey  carpets  have  long 
been  distinguished  for  their  beauty  ;  as  have  the  printed  muslins 
of  Constantinople,  and  the  crapes  and  gauzes  of  Salonica.  The 
brass  cannon  of  the  Turks  are  admired,  and  their  musket  and  pig- 


tURKEY  IN  EtJROPE.  5l$ 

tol  barrels,  and  sworcl-blades,  are  held  in  great  estimation  by  for- 
eigners. Morocco  leather  is  manufactured  in  large  quantitie«, 
and  of  the  best  quality,  in  Gallipoli  and  the  Dardanelles.  The 
■commerce  of  Turkey  is  very  far  from  being  in  a  flourishing  state. 
The  oppression  of  public  officers,  the  venality  of  tribunals,  and  the 
general  want  of  common  honesty,  inspire  an  universal  distrust,  and 
render  commercial  risks  extremely  precarious.  The  effect  of 
this  state  of  taints  is  to  raise  the  interest  of  money,  and  the  price 
of '^oods,  to  an  exorbitant  hcit^ht.  Commonly  money  cannot  be 
borrowed,  nor  goods  pvirchased  on  credit,  without  a  pledge  above 
their  value.  The  interest  of  money  lent  to  Europeans  is  from  8 
to  10  per  cent.  ;  to  Jews,  Armenians,  and  Greeks,  from  15  to  20  ; 
to  private  Turks,  from  25  to  30  ;  and  to  Turks  who  belong  to  the 
government,  from  40  to  50. 

Climate^  Face  of  Che  Coiintri/,  and  Soil.  The  climate  of  Turkey 
is  generally  mild,  the  air  pure,  and  the  seasons  regular.  Indian 
corn  and  the  vine  flourish  even  in  Moldavia  and  VVallachia  ;  and 
rice  and  the  olive  together  with  these,  in  the  more  southern  re- 
gions. The  country  is  rather  mountainous.  Rumelia,  however, 
is  chiefly  a  plain  country,  and  many  plains  and  vail 'ys  are  found  in 
the  other  provinces.  The  soil  is  almost  universaily  f*  rtile,  yield- 
ing vast  quantities  of  excellent  grain,  particularly  wheat,  barley, 
Indian  corn,  and  rice.  The  characteristical  indolence  of  the  Turks 
suffers  extensive  tracts  of  fine  land  to  lie  in  an  uncultivated  state. 

Rivers.  The  Danube,  already  mentioned,  is  in  part  a  Turkish 
stream.  The  Save  separates  Slavonia  from  Bosnia.  The  most 
considerable  tributary  of  the  Danube  from  Turkey  is  the  Morava^ 
\vhich  falls  into  it  a  little  below  Semendria,  after  a  course  of  200 
miles.  The  Esker  runs  120  miles,  and  falls  into  it  above  Nicopoli. 
The  Alaritz,  running  S.  E.  and  afterwards  S.  W.  falls  into  the 
Archipelago,  after  a  course  of  about  300  miles. 

The  Vardari  pursues  a  southeasterly  course  of  more  than  200 
miles,  to  the  gulf  of  Salonica. 

The  Drill  pursues  a  winding  course  of  about  120  miles,  and 
empties  into  tiie  gulf  of  Drin,  in  the  Adriatic. 

Gulfs.  The  gulf  of  Lepanto  sets  up  eastward,  about  120  miles 
from  the  Ionian  sea,  separating  the  Morea  from  Livadia. 

The  gulf  of  Engia,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  isthmus  of  Cor- 
inth, extends  from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.  about  20  miles,  and  is  25  miles 
wide  at  the  mouth. 

The  gulf  of  Salonica  is  the  N.  W.  lerinination  of  the  Archipela- 
go.    It  is  about  120  miles  long  and  30  wide. 

Isthmus.  The  isthmus  of  Corinth  separates  the  gulfs  of  Le- 
panto and  Engia,  and  connects  the  Morea  with  Livadia.  Tiiis 
was  the  scene  of  the  celebrated  Isthmian  games,  which  began  B. 
C.  1326. 

Mountai7is.     The   chains  of  moiuUains  are  numerous   and  ex- 
tensive.    A  southern  branch  of  a  grand  ciiain,  tending  S.   W.  for 
more  than  2oo  miles,  forms  the  N.  and  VV.  boundary  of  VVallacliia, 
On  the  S.  of  tlie  Danube  appears  tlie  grand  ra,nge  of  the  Ha*- 
65 


514  TURKEY  IN  EUROPE. 

mus.    This  mountainous  tract  extends  more  than  400  miles,  an# 
is  now  known  under  various  names. 


TURKISH  ISLANDS. 

Candia,  anciently  Crete,  lies  at  the  bottom  of  the  ArchipelagOj- 
and  is  one  of  the  laigest  islands  in  the  Mediterranean.  It  extends 
from  E.  to  W.  about  180  miles  in  length,  between  Ion.  23  30  and 
26  30  E.  and  about  40  from  N.  to  S.  containing,  according  to 
Hassel,  4318  square  miles.  Candia  is  divided  into  3  pachalics  that 
of  Retimo,  in  the  west,  Canea,  in  the  middle  and  Candia,  in 
the  cast.  The  population  of  the  island  is  estimated  by  Olivier,  at 
240,000.  One  half  of  these  are  Greeks.  The  mountains  are  in^ 
hubiied  by  the  Sfiachiots^  distinguished  from  the  other  Greeks 
b^  their  tall  stature,  their  courage,  and  their  love  of  liberty. 

The  exports  are  horses,  oil,  soap,  was,  honey,  cheese,  raisins, 
almonds,  walnuts,  chesnuts,  linseed,  and  liquorice  root.  There 
is  scarcely  a  safe  anchorage  on  the  southern  coast,  but  many  fine 
harbors  and  roadsteads  on  the  northern. 

The  climate  has  from  remote  antiquity  been  celebrated  for  its 
salubrity.  Winter  is  merely  a  rainy  season  on  the  plains,  though 
the  high  mountains  are  covered  with  snow.  The  refreshing  sea- 
breeze  constantlytempers  the  heat  of  summer.  The  rivers  are 
little  more  than  torrents,  swelled  by  the  rains  of  winter. 

The  town  of  Candia  is  the  capital  of  the  island.  It  is  a  sea-port 
on  the  northern  shoj-e,  about  the  middle  of  the  island.  The  har- 
bor is  small,  but  well  fortified.  The  streets  are  straight,  and  at 
right  angles.  The  town  contains  from  10  to  12,000  Turks,  frona 
2  to  3000  Greeks,  and  about  60  Jews.  Here  are  23  soap  houses. 
The  environs  present  a  few  fertile  plains  and  rising  grounds 

Canea^  near  the  western  extremity,  is  surrounded  by  a  strong 
wall  and  deep  ditch.     Here  are  20  soap  houses.    The  town  is  es- 
timated to  contain  4000  Turks,  2  or  3000  Greeks,   150  Jews,  4 
French  and  some  Italian  houses.     Canea  is  the  most  commercial 
town  in  the  island. 

Retirno,  about  half  way  between  Candia  and  Canea,  is  also  a  sea-- 
poil,  on  the  northern  shore.  Its  harbor  is  small  and  shallow.  The 
environs  are  delicj,htful.  It  contains  about  6000  inhabitants  ;  half 
Greeks  and  half  Turks. 

JSTegrojiont  stretches  from  S.  E.  tO  N.  W.  along  the  coast  of 
Grcscia  Projirm,  and  is  96  miles  long,  and  from  8  to  16  broad; 
containing,  according  to  Hassel,  482  square  miles.  The  whole 
number  of  inhabitants  is  stated  in  the  table  at  40,000,  which  is  far 
less  than  the  ancient  population.  Ncgropont,  the  capital,  stands  on 
the  western  side  of  tl^e  island.  The  harbor  is  large  and  deep,  and 
seldom  without  a  fleet  of  galleys.  The  town  is  the  residence  of  the 
admiral  of  Turkey,  who  is  the  governor  of  Euboea,  the  smaller 
islands,  and  of  the  district  of  Gallipcli.     Population  16,000. 

Lcinnos,  in  the  northern  part  of  tlie  Archipelago,  is  15  miles 
long  and  1 1  broad.     The  eastern  part  of  the  island  is  dry  and  bar- 


TURKEY  IN  EUROPE.  515 

^ren  ;  the  western  is  fertile  and  abounding  in  springs,  Stalimcne, 
as  the  see  of  a  Greek  bishop.  The  other  town  is  Cochino.  The 
whole  population  is  8000,  others  say  10,000. 

Andros,  a  small  distance  S.  E.  from  Negropont,  is  90  miles  in 
circumference.  It  is  generally  hi'jli  and  mountainous.  The  popu= 
lation  is  15,000  souls,  disuibuted  into  12  villages. 

Tino,  one  mile  S.  E.  of  Andros,  is  60  miles  in  circumference, 
contains  about  70  square  miles,  and  is  almost  every  where  moun- 
rtainous.  The  inhabitants  are  the  bravest  in  the  Archipelago,  and 
though  often  attacked,  did  not  submit  to  the  I'urks,  till  17  11,  when  ' 
they  were  probably  betrayed  by  the  governor.  Here  are  reckoned 
■60  towns  or  villages,  inhabited  by  40,000  to  45,000  souls.* 

Myco?ii^  12  miles  S.  E.  of  Tino,  is  far  from  fertile,  and  almost 
all  mountainous.  The  inhabitants,  6000  in  number,  all  reside  in 
one  town  on  the  coast.  They  are  all  farmers  or  mariners.  A 
little  barley  and  wine  are  annually  exported. 

J\''axiai  is  chiefly  covered  with  high  mountains,  the   highest  of 

which,  called  Jupiter,  affords  an  extensive  prospect  of  the  Archipe- 

4ago.     The  town  Naxos,  containing  2000  souls,  is  on  the  western 

-side.  The  other  inhabitants,  exceeding  SOOO,  are  scattered  through 

.41  villages. 

Paros,  6  miles  west  of  Naxia,  contains  6000  inhabitants.  It  has 
4  excellent  harbors.  The  celebrated  Parian  marble  is  obtained 
■  from  this  island. 

Anti/iaroa^  7  miles  S.  W.  and  16  in  cirGumference?  is  chiefly 
celebrated  for  its  grotto. 

AOo,  anciently  los^  40  miles  in  circuit,  is  lofty  and  mountainousj 
and  far  from  !)cing  fertile.  It  contains  3700  inhabitants,  all  Greeks. 
Homer  is  said  to  have  been  buried  here. 

jV/jYo,  formerly  Melon,  the  southwesternmost  of  the  Cyclades,  is 
^0  miles  in  circumference,  and  has  a  very  large  harbor,  one  of  the 
vfinest  in  these  seas.     The  population  does  not  exceed  1500. 

Sansorini,  is  40  miles  in  circumference,  and  in  shape  like  a  horse- 
shoe. The  coast  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea,  often  to  the  height 
of  600  feet.  The  road  is  7  miles  long,  and  6  deep.  The  water 
in  it  has  a  deptli  of  from  250  to  300  fathoms,  so  that  ships  can  find 
no  anchoring  ground.  The  population  exceeds  12,000  ;  about 
one  sixth  of  which  are  Roman  Catholics.  Here  are  two  bishops, 
one  Latin,  the  other  Greek,  and  two  nunneries.  The  inhabitants 
are  distinguished  for  industry,  temperance,  probity,  and  good 
morals. 

The  other  considerable  islands  will  more  properly  fall  under  the 
ftlescription  of  Turkey  in  Asia. 

*  According  to  Ha»sel,  24,800, 


&\6.  ASIA.. 


ASIA. 


AS  Asia  exceeds  Europe  and  Africa  in  the  extent  of  its  territ&=i 
ries,  it  is  also  superior  to  them  in  the  serenity  of  its  air,  the  fertili- 
ty of  its  soil,  the  deliciousness  of  its  fruits,  the  fragrance  and  bal- 
samic qualities  of  its  plants,  spices,  and  gums  ;  the  salubrity  of  its 
drugs;  the  quantity,  variety,  beauty,  and  value  of  its  gems;  the 
richness  of  its  metals,  and  the  fineness  of  its  silks  and  cottons.  It 
was  in.  Asia,  according  to  the  sacred  records,  that  the  all-wise  Crea- 
tor planted  the  garden  oi  Eden,  in  which  he  formed  the  first  man 
and  first  woman,  from  whom  the  race  of  mankind  has  descended. 
Asia  became  again  the  pursery  of  the  world  after  the  deluge, 
■whence  the  descendants  of  Noah  dispersed  their  various  colonies 
into  all  the  other  parts  of  the  globe.  It  was  in  Asia  that  God 
placed  his  chosen  people,  the  Hebrews,  to  whom,  by  the  prophets,, 
and  other  holy  men,  he  gave  the  Oracles  of  Truth.  It  was  here 
that  the  great  and  merciful  work  of  our  redemption  was  accora" 
plished  by  the  Son  of  God  ;  and  it  was  from  hence  that  the  light  oi 
his  glorious  gospel  was  carried  with  amazing  rapidity  into  all  the 
linown  nations,  by  his  disciples  and  followers.  Here  the  first 
Christian  churches  were  founded,  and  the  Christian  faith  miracu- 
lously propagated,  and  cherished,  by  the  preaching  of  the  gospel; 
and  the  blood  ot  innumerable  martyrs.  It  was  in  Asia  that  the 
iirst  edifices  were  reared,  and  the  first  empires  founded,  while  the 
other  parts  of  the  globe  were  inhabited  only  by  wild  animals.  On 
these  accounts,  this  quarter  claims  a  superiority  over  the  lest :  but 
a  great  change  has  happened,  especially  in  that  part  of  it  called 
Turkey,  which  has  lost  its  ancient  splendor,  and  from  the  most 
populous  and  best  cultivated  spot  in  Asia,  is  become  almost  a  wild 
and  uncultivated  desert. 

Extent,  This  division  of  the  earth  extends  from  the  Helles- 
pont, the  most  westeily  point,  Ion.  26  E.  to  East  Cape,  in  about  190 
degrees  E.  Ion.  from  London,  being  738.>  miles  in  length.  In 
breadth  it  is  5250  miles. 

Asia  is  limited,  on  the  east,  by  a  strait  which  divides  it  from  A- 
merica,  and  which,  in  honor  of  the  discoverer,  is  called  Behring's 
strait.  The  northern  and  soulhern  boundaries  are  the  Arctic  and. 
Indian  oceans,  in  which  last,  many  large  islands,  particularly  that 
of  New-H<jlland,  now  more  classically  and  properly  styled  Aus- 
tralasia^ affords  a  vast  additional  extent  to  this  quarter  of  the  globe 
The  western  limits  of  Asia  have  already  been  defined. 

Divisions.  Thousih  Pinkerton's  arrangement  will  be  followed 
in  the  description  of  the  difi'crent  parts  of  Asia,  it  will  be  useful 
liere  to  insert  Hasscl's  table  of  divisions,  though  implicit  confidenqc 
.is  not  to  be  placed  in  their  correctness. 


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*  This  is  the  German  name,  which  vre  carnot  translate, 
f  Fahri,  14,020,000;  Templeman,  14,050,000 ;  Montelle,  17,490,000. 
j  Volney,  240,000,000  ;  Busching,  300,000,000 ;  Gatterez,  500,000,000 ;  Si 
jnilch,  (-50,000,000. 


TURKEY  IN  ASIA.  51» 

Govevmnents.  The  Asiatic  governments  are  almost  universally 
despoti'C,  and  the  very  idea  of  a  commonwealth  seems  to  be  un- 
known.    The  mildest  systems  are  perhaps  those  found  in  Arabia. 

Arrangement.  The  Turkish  empire  in  Asia  constitutes  a  nat- 
ural an<3  easy  transition  from  the  description  of  Europe ;  and  the 
Russian  empire,  though  in  population  far  inferior,  yet  in  military 
and  political  force  transcends  that  of  China. 

From  the  Russian  empire  in  Asia  the  transition  is  easy  to  that  of 
China,  a  bordering  state  :  after  which  shall  be  described  Japan, 
and  a  niew  great  power^  the  Birman  empire.  Hir.dostan  and  Per- 
sia beijig  how  divided  into  several  distinct  sovereignties,  and  Ara- 
bia  c  r.itaiuing  many  independent  slates,  the  scale  of  political  im- 
porta.ncc  becomes  transitive  and  indistinct,  and  may  justly  yioid  in 
such,  cases  to  mere  geographical  arrangement.  Hence  the  small- 
er sj^ates  of  India  beyond  the  Gauges,  or  between  Hiiidostan  and 
Chijna,  will  follow  the  Birman  empire,  to  which,  or  to  China,  they 
may  perhaps  soon  be  subjected.  A  western  progress  leads  to  Hin- 
dosta.n,  Persia,  and  Arabia  :  and  a  short  account  of  tiie  various  in- 
teresting and  important  islands  in  the  Indian  and  ia  the  Pacific  o- 
eeans,  \n\\  close  this  department  of  the  work. 


TURKEY  IN  ASIA. 

Exten.t.  THIS  region  extends  from  the  shores  of  the  Arclup-- 
elago,  to  the  confines  of  Persia  ;  a  space  of  about  1050  miles. 
The  boundaries  towards  Persia  are  rather  ideal  than  natural,  though 
somewhat  marked  by  the  mountains  of  Ararat  and  Elwend.  In 
the  north,  the  Turkish  territories  are  now  divided  from  the  Rus- 
siaiTi  by  the  river  Cuban,  and  tlie  chain  of  Caucasus  ;  in  tl^.e  south 
the  J  extend  to  the  junction  of  the  Tigris  and  the  Euphrates,  which 
last  river,  for  a  considerable  space,  divides  the  Turkish  posses- 
sions from  those  of  the  Arabs.  From  the  river  Cuban  to  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Tigris  and  Euphrates,  is  about  1 100  miles. 

Divisions.  This  extensive  territory,  which  in  itself  would  con- 
stituf.e  an  empire,  could  it  resume  its  former  population^  is  divided 
into  irane  or  ten  provinces.  jYatolia,  the  most  westerly,  is  followed 
by  Ka.raman  in  the  south,  and  Koum  in  the  northeast.  To  the  N. 
of  An  nenia  are  Guria^  or  Guriel,  Mingrelia^  and  \.\\q  Ahkhas  of 
Cauca  .sus,  the  ancient  Circassians.  Armenia  is  also  styled  Tur- 
coman ia  ;  to  the  south  ai  \wh\c\\  va-e  Kurdistan^  and  Ira':  ylrahi,  \i 
part  t  >f  ancient  Persia,  around  the  celebrat;;d  capital,  B.Tgdad. 
The  ;  mcient  Mesopotamia,  between  the  Tigris  ind  the  Euphra- 
tes, nc  >w  partly  corresponds  with  the  province  oi  yligezira  ;  and  the 
classic  -.a!  name  of  Syria,  or  Sori?.,  is  suil  allotted  to  the  celebrated 
countries  along  the  eastern  extremities  of  the  Mc  Hicrranean. 
Some  of  these  provinces  arc  of  comparatively  recent  acquisition  ; 
Bagda  .d  having  belonged  to  Persia  till  1638  ;  while  on  the  contra- 
ry. El  ivan,  reconquered  by  the  Persians,  in  163.=;^  has  reruaiucdfreft 
from    tJie  Turkish  domination. 


S,2&  TURKEY  IN  ASIA. 

These  provinces  are  subdivided  into  governments,  arbitrarily' 
administered  by  pachas. 

Hist'jry.  Ti.e  present  limits  of  Turkey  were  fixed  by  the  treaty 
betwccii  the  Porte  and  Persia,  1736,  since  which  period  the  Turks 
have  been  chiefly  occupied  in  their  own  defence  against  the  Rus- 
sius. 

Population.  The  Turkish  empire  in  Asia  is  estimated  by  Pin- 
kertoii  al  470,400  square  miles  ;  and  the  population  at  ten  mill- 
ions ;  which,  allowing  eight  for  the  European  part,  will  render 
the  total  18,000,000.* 

In  the  Caucasian  mountain,  not  far  from  the  Black  Sea,  is  a  peo- 
ple called  Sonnas,  from  their  country  of  this  name,  amounting  to 
about  200,000  souls,  inhabiting  60  villages,  some  of  which  are 
towns  of  900  houses.  These  people  acknowledge  Jesus  Christ  to' 
be  their  only  King  and  Saviour.  They  pray  that  God  would  bless 
them  for  Christ's  sake,  observe  the  sabbath,  have  priests  who  bap- 
tize their  children,  and  administer  the  sacrament  of  the  supper. 
They  have  many  church  books,  but  know  not  the  meaning  of  tiiem. 
They  believe  in  a  future  judgeinent.  They  are  said,  some  of  them, 
to  labor  under  deep  convictions  of  sin,  and  to  pray  night  and  day. 
They  consider  their  preservation  and  the  preservation  of  Christian- 
ity among  tiiem  as  a  miracle.  They  inoculate  their  children  for 
the  small  pox  ;  have  gardens  enclosed  with  stone  walls,  and  abun- 
dance of  fruit,  and  live  in  harmony  and  comfort. f 

Cities  avd  Towns.  Aleppo,  on  the  Mediterranean,  the  capital  of 
Syria,  is  supposed  to  contain  about  250.000  inhabitants.  The  build- 
ings and  population  seem  to  have  been  on  the  increase,  but  the  ad- 
jacent villa,«;es  are  deserted.  The  chief  languages  are  the  Turkish 
and  Arabic.  The  manufactures  of  silk  and  cotton  are  in  a  flourish- 
ing condition,  and  large  caravans  frequently  arrive  from  Bagdad 
and  Bassura,  charged  with  the  products  of  Persia  and  India  ;  con- 
suls from  various  European  powers  reside  here,  to  attend  the  inter^ 
csts  of  the  respective  nations. 

Damascus  is  supposed  to  contain  about  180,000  souls.  It  was 
formerly  celebrated  for  the  manufacture  of  sabres.  The  manufac- 
tures now  consist  of  silk  and  cotton,  and  excellent  soap.  From  the 
Mediterranean  are  imported  metals  and  broadcloths  :  and  the  cara- 
vans of  Bagdad  bring  Persian  and  Indian  articles. 

Smyrna  may  be  regarded  as  the  third  city  in  Asiatic  Turkey, 
containing  about  140,009  souls.  This  flourishing  seat  of  European 
commerce,  and  cliief  mart  of  the  Levant  trade,  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  by  Alexander  the  Great,  eminently  distinguished  from  all 
other  conquerors  by  the  foundation,  and  not  the  destruction  of 
cities.  The  excellence  of  the  haven  renders  Smyrna  the  centre  of 
all  the  traffic  of  Asia  Minor;  but  the  frequent  visits  of  the  pesti- 
lence trreatly  impede  its  prosperity.^  It  has  been  observed  that 
the  sands  in  the  bay  of  Smyrna  gradually  increase,  and  may  probably 

•  Hassel  estimates  the  square  miles  at  533,000,  and  the  population  alt 
11,090,000,  and  Montelle  and  Make,  at  13,600,000.  But  both  these  geogra- 
phers inclode  Egypt  in  tlieir  calculations,  which  accounts  for  the  differeoce,- 

t  Brunton's  Letter,  Feb.  1806.  \  Chandler,  65. 


TURKEY  IN  ASIA.  521 

ih  time  impede  the  commerce.  Earthquakes  are  here  terriblco 
The  city  of  Smyrna  is  poorly  built.  Tiic  houses  in  general  arc 
snere  mud  huts,  and  the  streets  loathsome  and  filthy  in  the  extreme. 
The  street  of  the  Franks  is  the  prhicipal  commercial  street.  It 
contains  many  well  built  houses.  The  warehouses  are  all  fire- 
proof.* 

Prusa  is  a  beautiful  city,  in  a  romantic  situation,  at  the  northern 
bottom  of  mount  Olympus.  By  Tourncfort's  computation  of  fami- 
lies the  inhabitants  may  be  about  60,000.  It  was  formerly  the 
chosen  residence  of  the  sultans,  and  contains  many  of  their  tombs. 

Angora  contains  about  80,000  inhabitants.  The  trade  is  chiefly 
in  yarn,  of  which  the  English  shalloons  are  made  ;  and  in  their  own 
manufacture  of  Angora  stuffs,  made  chiefly  of  the  fine  hair  of  a  par- 
ticular breed  of  goats,  which,  like  that  of  the  cats,  occurs  in  no 
other  country. 

Tokat  is  also  a  flourishing  place.  The  inhabitants  are  computed 
at  60,000.  Silk  and  leather  are  manufactures  of  Tokat  ;  but  the 
chief  is  that  of  copper  utensils,  which  are  sent  to  Constantinopla, 
and  even  to  Egypt. 

Basra  or  Bassora,  on  the  estuary  of  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris,  is 
a  city  of  50,000  inhabitants,  and  great  commercial  consequence,  be- 
ing frequented  by  numerous  vessels  from  Europe  and  Asia,  and 
?he  seat  of  an  English  consul. 

The  great  and  I'omantic  Bagdad,  the  seat  of  the  califs,  and  the 
scene  of  many  eastern  fictions,  has  now  dwindled  into  a  town  of 
about  20,000  inhabitants.  Near  this  city  was  ancient  Babylon,  whose 
present  state  furnishes  conclusive  evidence  of  the  fulfilment  of 
prophecy. 

The  ancient  and  celebrated  city  of  Jerusalem  is  reduced  to  a 
mean  town,  chiefly  existing  by  the  piety  of  pilgrims.  This  city  will 
ever  be  interesting  to  the  heart  of  sensibility.  Christ  declared  that 
the  place  "  should  be  trodden  down  of  the  Gentiles."  To  this  day 
Gentiles  possess  the  city.  It  is  inhabited  by  Turks,  Arabs,  and  a 
few  Christians.  The  Jews  do  not  choose  to  dwell  here  ;  they  say 
it  must  undergo  a  conflagration  and  inundation,  when  the  Messiah 
comes  to  purity  it  from  the  defilements  of  Christians  and  Mahome-^ 
tans. 

Erzeron,  the  capital  of  Armenia,  contains  about  25,000  inhabit? 
M-sis. 

Tyre  was  once  a  famous  city  of  Phenicia,  and  anciently  a  place  of 
more  extensive  commerce  thaii  any  spot  in  the  world.  In  the  time 
of  the  prophet  Isaiah,  "  Her  merchants  were  princes."  In  the  time 
of  Alexander,  it  was  encircled  by  a  wall  150  feet  high.  This  city 
arrested  the  progress  of  his  conquering  army  for  seven  months. 
But  for  their  wickedness  God  threatened  by  the  voice  of  prophecy, 
that  this  mart  of  nations  should  ijecome  desolate.  "  I  will  cause 
the  noise  of  thy  songs  to  cease  ;  I  will  make  thee  like  the  top  of  a 
3'ock.  Thou  shalt  be  a  place  to  fs/iread  7iets  ujion.  Thou  slialt  be 
built  no  more."     This  prophecy  has  been   literally  fulfilled.     Th'^ 

•  Lartgdon's  MSi 

66 


522^  TURKEY  INT  ASIA. 

place  is  now  buried  in  its  own  ruins.  There  is  nothing  here  nm^ 
to  give  the  least  idea  of  its  former  glory  and  magnificence.  There- 
is,  indeed,  on  the  N.  side,  one  old  Turkish  castle,  beside  which, 
nothing  is  to  be  seen,  but  fallen,  broken  pillars.  Not  a  single  habi° 
tation  for  human  beings  is  there  on  this  once  celebrated  spot.  It  is 
totally  abandoned,  excepting  by  a  few  fishermen,  who  sometimes-^ 
visit  it  to  fish  in  the  surrounding  waters,  and  on  its  rocks  dry  their 
7iets,  sheltering  themselves  under  the  ruins  of  its  ancient  grandeur. 
Lon.  35  48  E.  lat.  33   23  N. 

Climaie  and  Seasono:  Asia  Minor  has  a  fine  climate.  There  is 
a  peculiar  softness  and  serenity  in  the  air,  not  perceivable  on  the 
European  side  of  the  Archipelago.  The  heat  of  the  summer  is  con- 
siderably tempered  by  the  numerous  chains  of  high  mountains, 
some  of  which  are  said  to  be  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  general  appearance  of  Asiatic  Tur- 
key is  mountainous  ;  but  intermingled  with  large  and  beautiful 
plains,  which,  instead  of  being  covered  with  rich  crops  of  grain,  are 
pastured  by  the  nimierous  flocks  and  herds  of  the  Turcomans. 
The  soil  of  Asia  Minor  is  chiefly  a  deep  clay  ;  and  wheat,  barleyjr 
and  durra,  form  the  chief  products  of  agriculture.*  Excellent 
grapes  and  olives  abound  ;  and  the  southern  provinces  are  fertile 
in  dates.  In  Syria  the  agriculture  is  in  the  most  deplorable  condi- 
tion. The  peasants  though  not  sold  with  the  soil,  like  those  of  Po- 
land, are,  if  possible,  yet  more  oppressed  ;  barley  bread,  onions,  and 
water,  form  their  constant  fare.f 

Rivers.  The  principal  river  of  Asiatic  Turkey  is  the  Euphrates, 
which  rises  from  the  mountains  of  Armenia,  a  few  miles  to  the  No 
E.  of  Erzeron  ;|  and  chiefly  pursues  a  S.  W.  direction  to  Semisat, 
where  it  would  fall  into  the  Mediterranean,  if  not  prevented  by  a 
high  ridge  of  mountains.  In  this  part  of  its  course  the  Euphrates 
is  joined  by  the  Morad  from  the  east,  a  stream  almost  double  in 
length  to  that  of  Euphrates.  At  Semisat,  the  ancient  Samosata,  this 
noble  river  assumes  a  southerly  direction  ;  then  runs  an  extensive 
course  to  the  S.  E.  and  after  receiving  the  Tigris,  falls  by  two  or 
three  mouths  into  the  gulf  of  Persia,  50  miles  S.  E.  of  Bassora* 
The  length  of  the  Euphrates  is  about  1400  miles.  Its  water  is  re- 
markably pleasant.  It  is  muddy  when  first  taken  up,  but  soon  be- 
comes clear  ;  and  i«  by  same  preferred  to  wine  or  spirits.  The 
tide  raises  its  water  more  than  30  leagues  above  its  mouth,  Ion. 
()&  55  E,  lat.  29   50  N. 

Next  in  importance  is  the  Tigris,  which  rises  about  150  miles 
south  from  the  sources  of  the  Euphrates,  and  pursues  nearly  a  reg- 
ular direction  S.  E.  till  it  joins  the  Euplirates,  below  Korua,  about 
60  miles  north  of  Bassura  ;  after  a  course  of  about  800  miles.  The 
Euphrates  and  the  Tigris  are  both  navigable  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  sea. 

The  third  river  in  Asiatic  Turkey  is  Kizil  Irmak,  the  celebrated 
Halys  of  antiquity,  which  rising  in  mount  Taurus,  crosses  nearly  the- 
whole  of  Asia  Minor,  and  joins  the  Euxine  sea,  on  the  west  of  the 
.gulf  of  Sansoun. 

»  Browne,4l8*  f  Volney,  ii.  413,  |  Tournefort,  ii.  198. 


TURKEY  IN  ASIA.  523 

Jordan  is  a  river  of  Palestine,  rising  from  lake  Phiala,  in  Anii- 
•iibanus.  It  runs  under  ground  15  miles,  then  bieaks  out  at  Pe- 
neum  ;  passes  through  Samachomite  lake,  anciently  called  Meron, 
6  miles  long,  4  broad.  Two  miles  after  its  leaving  the  lake,  is  a 
stone  bridge,  of  3  arches,  called  "  Jacob's  Bridge,"  supposed  to 
have  been  built  before  the  days  of  Jacob.  After  separating  Galilee 
from  Tracontis,  it  passes  through  the  lake  Tiberias  ;  thence,  after 
a  course  of  65  miles,  part  of  the  way  through  a  vast  and  most  hor- 
rid desert,  receiving  the  Carith,  (on  the  bank  ol  which  Elijah  was 
fed  by  ravens)  and  many  other  tributary  streams,  it  empties  into  the 
Dead  Sea.  It  is  a  very  rapid  river,  generally  about  4  or  5  rods 
■wide,  and  9  feet  deep,  and,  except  in  freshets,  runs  2  yards  below 
the  brink  of  its  channel.  The  waters  are  turbid,  but  very  whole- 
some. 

Lakes.  Asiatic  Turkey  contains  numerous  lakes.  TliatofVan, 
in  the  north  of  Kurdistan,  is  the  most  remarkable,  being  about  80 
miles  in  length,  and  about  40  in  breadth. 

in  Syria  is  Asfihalritcs  lake.,  known  also  by  the  names  of  the  Salt 

.Sea,  Dead  Sea,  and  Sea  of  Sodom^  S.  of  Jordan,   and  on  the  S.  E. 

border  of  the  ancient  Canaan.  According  to  Joscphus,  it  is  72  miles 

long,   and  about  19  broad.     Modern  travellers,   liowevcr,  make  it 

•  only  24  miles  long,  and  6  or  7  broad.  The  rivers  Jordan,  Arnon, 
Kidron,  and  otiier  streams,  empty  into  tlvis  lake.  It  has  no  visible 
communication  with  the   sea.      The  great  quantities  of  bitumen, 

.slime  or  mineral  pitch,  in  this  lake,  render  its  waters  unfit  to  drink. 
No  fish  can  live  in  it.  The  sulphurous  stream  affects  even  the 
fruit  on  the  shore  in  some  parts.  This  lake  is  supposed  to  occupy 
the  ancient  site  of  Sodom,  Gomorrah,  Admah,  and  Zeboim,  and  the 

•  valley  of  Siddim. 

The  lake  of  Rackama,  to  the  south  of  Hilla,  and  the  ancient 
Babylon,  is  about  30  miles  in  length,  and  flows  into  the  Euphrates. 

Towards  the  centre  of  Asia  iMinor,  there  is  a  remarkable  saline 
lake,  about  70  miles  in  length,  and  a  mile  or  two  in  breadth,  being 
the  Tatta,  or  Palus  Salsa  of  D'Anvillc's  ancient  geography. 

Mountains.  The  first  rank  is  due  to  the  Taurian  chain  of  anti- 
quiiv,  which  was  considered  as  extending  from  tiie  neighborjiood 
of  toe  Archipelago  to  the  sources  of  the  Ganges.  The  Caucasian 
mountains  form  a  range  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Cuban,  in  t!ie 
N.  W.  to  where  the  river  Ker  enters  the  Caspian,  in  the  S.  E.  A 
chaiii  extt  ndb  from  Caucasus  S.  W.  to  near  tlie  bay  of  Scanderoon. 

Towards  the  east  of  Armenia,  is  Ararat,  a  detached  mountain, 
with  two  summits  ;  the  highest  being  covered  with  eternal  snov/. 
In  one  of  the  flanks  is  an  abyss,  or  precipice,  of  prodigious  depth, 
the  sides  being  perpendicular,  and  of  a  rough  black  appearance,  as 
if  tinged  with  smoke.  This  mountain  belongs  to  Persia,  but  is  here 
mentioned  on  account  of  connexion. 

In  Syria  the  most  celebrated  mountain  is  that  of  Lebanon,  or  Li- 
banus,  running  in  the  southerly  and  northerly  direction  of  the  Med- 
iterranean shore,  and  generally  at  the  distance  of  about  30  or  49 
miles.  It  is  about  100  leagues  in  circumference.  Its  cedars  have 
-beti;  remarkable  from  the  days  of  Solomon.     But  16  a^cd  ones  re- 


5i'«  RUSSIAN  EIVIPIRL  IN  ASIA. 

main.     One  of  them  is  36  feet  6  inches  in  circumference,  and  the-, 
spread  of  its  branches  proportionably  extensive. 

The  eastern  side  of  the  Archipelago  presents  many  mountains  oE 
great  height  and  classical  fame,  chiefly  in  ranges  extending  frona 
N.  to  S.  Of  these  Olympus  is  one  oi  the  most  celebrated,  a  vast 
range  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  About  140  miles  W.  of  Olym- 
pus rises  mount  Ida,  of  great  though  not  equal  height. 

ISLANDS  BELONGING  TO  ASIATIC  TURKEY. 

The  chief  islands  in  the  Archipelago,  considered  as  belonging  to 
Asia,  are  Mytilene,  Scio,  Samos,  Cos,  and  Rhodes. 

Mytilene,  the  ancient  Lesbos,  is  the  most  northerly  and  largest  of 
these  isles,  being  about  40  miles  in  length,  by  24  at  its  greatest 
breadth.  Its  population  is  upwards  of  100,000.  The  climate  is  ex- 
quisite ;  and  it  was  anciently  noted  for  wines,  and  the  beauty  of  thd 
women. 

Scio,  the  ancient  Chios,  is  about  56  miles  in  length,  by  about  13 
in  medial  breadth.  The  Chian  wine  is  celebrated  by  Horace,  and 
retains  its  ancient  fame.  The  inhabitants  are  supposed  to  be  about 
60,000. 

Samos  is  about  30  miles  in  length,  and  10  in  breadth.  This  isle 
is  also  crossed  by  a  chain  of  hills,  and  the  most  agreeable  part  is 
the  plain  of  Cora.     Tourncfort  computes  the  inhabitants  at  1 2,000» 

Cos,  or  Coos,  is  about  24  miles  in  length,  by  3  or  4  in  breadth ;, 
but  has  been  little  visited  by  modern  travellers. 

Rhodes  is  about  36  miles  in  length,  by  15  in  breadth,  an  island 
celebrated  in  ancient  and  modern  times.  It  is  fertile  in  wheat.^ 
though  the  soil  be  of  a  sandy  nature.  The  population  is  computed 
at  about  40,000.  The  city  of  the  samje  name,  in  which  no  Christian 
is  now  permitted  to  dwell,  stands  in  the  noith  end  of  the  isle  ;  and, 
was  anciently  noted  for  a  colossus  in  bronze,  about  130  feet  high. 
This  isle  was  for  two  centuries  possessed  by  the  knights  of  St  John, 
of  Jerusalem,  thence  styled  of  Rhodes,  till  1 323,  when  it  was  takea, 
by  the  Turks  ;  and  the  emperor  Charles  V.  assigned  to  the  knights 
the  island  of  Malta. 

Cijtnus  is  about  160  miles  in  length,  and  about  70  at  its  greatest^ 
breadth.  The  soil  is  fertile,  yet  agriculture  is  in  a  neglected  state. 
The  chief  products  are  silk,  cotton,  wines,  turpentine,  and  timber. 
The  Cypriots  are  a  tall  and  elegant  race  ;  but  the  chief  beauty  of^ 
the  women  consists  in  tlieir  sparkling  eyes.  To  the  disgrace  of 
the  Turkish  government,  the  population  of  this  extensive  island  ia 
computed  at  50,000  souls  ! 


RUSSIAN   EMPIRE  IN  ASIA. 

Extent.  ASIATIC  RUSSIA  extends  between  the  57th  and  the 
}'90th  degrees  of  east  longitude  from  London,  computed  at  4570 
miles  in  iength.      Its  greatest  breadth,  from  the  Altaian  chain  of 


RUSSIAN  EMPIRE  IN  ASIA.  52s 

.mountains,  on  the  south,  to  the  cape  of  Faimura  on  the  noMh,  26 
degrees  of  latitude,  is  1960  miles. 

Boundaries.  East  by  a  part  of  Asia,  and  the  seas  of  Kamchatka 
and  Ochotsk  ;  north  by  the  Arctic  ocean  ;  west  the  frontiers  cor- 
respond with  those  between  Asia  and  Europe.  The  southern  limit.s 
require  more  explanation.  The  river  Cuban,  part  of  the  Caucasian 
chain,  and  an  ideal  line,  divide  the  Russian  territory  from  Turkey 
.and  Persia.  The  boundary  then  ascends  along  the  nortii  of  the  Cas- 
pian, through  the  stefi/i',  or  desert  of  Issim,  and  the  eastern  sliore 
of  the  river  Ob,  to  where  it  issues  from  the  Altaian  mountains,  when 
it  meets  the  vast  empire  of  China  ;  and  proceeds  along  tliat  chain 
to  the  sources  of  the  Onon,  where  it  includes  a  considerable  region, 
called  Daouria,  extending  about  200  miles  in  breadth,  to  the  south 
of  the  mountains  called  Yablonny  ;  the  limit  between  Russia  and 
.Chinese  Tartary  being  partly  an  ideal  line  ;  and  partly  the  river 
Argoon,  which  joined  with  the  Onon,  constitutes  the  great  river 
Amur.  Thence  the  boundary  returns  to  the  mountainous  chain, 
and  follows  a  branch  of  it  to  a  promontory  on  the  north  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Amur,  or  Amoor. 

Divisions.     See  Russian  Empire  in  Europe. 

Religion.  The  Grecian  system  of  the  christian  faith,  which 
is  embraced  by  the  Russians,  has  made  inconsiderable  progress 
in  their  Asiatic  possessions.  Many  of  the  Tartar  tribes  in  the  S. 
W.  are  Mahometans  ;  and  others  follow  the  superstition  of  Dalai 
Lama,  of  which  an  account  will  be  given  in  ihe  description  of 
,the  Chinese  empire.  But  the  more  eastern  Tartars  are  generally 
of  the  Shaman  religion,  a  system  chiefly  founded  on  the  self-exist- 
ence of  matter,  a  spiritual  world,  and  the  general  restitution  of  all 
things.* 

The  archiepiscopal  see  of  Tobolsk  is  the  metropolitan  of  Rus- 
sian Asia  in  the  north,  and  that  of  Astrachan  in  the  south.  There 
is  also  the  see  of  Irkutsk  and  Nershinsk,  and  perhaps  a  few  others 
of  recent  foundation 

At  Karras,  530  miles  S  W.  of  Astrachan,  and  260  N.  of  Trifflis, 
is  a  missionary  station,  supported  by  a  missionary  society  at  Ed- 
inburgh. The  Mahommedan  religion  prevails  in  this  region,  to 
a  great  extent.  The  missionaries  have  been  patronized  by  the 
Russian  government,  and  their  labors  have  been  successful.  Mr. 
^runton,  one  of  the  missionaries  on  this  station,  lately  deceased, 
has  translated  the  Scriptures  into  the  Turkish  language,  which  is 
understood  by  all  the  Partars,  who  can  read,  from  the  banks  of 
the  Wolga,  to  shores  of  the  Euxine,  and  is  also  spoken  over 
many  extensive  and  populous  regions  in  the  east.  Types  and  pa- 
per have  been  sent  to  the  amount  of  £600  sterling  to  this  station, 
by  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society,  in  aid  of  the  benevolent 
object,  and  the  New  Testament  has  been  already  published,  and 
js  read  with  interest  by  some  of  the  most  learned  Mahommedans. 
This  station  is  not  far  distant  from  the  Sonnasy  in  the  Caucasian 
jpptintains,  already  noticed,  and  who  in  connection  with  this  mis- 

•  Tooke's  Russia,  1783,  iv.  42. 


526  RUSSIAN  EMPIRE  IN  ASIA. 

slon,  may  be  cf  essential  service  in  spreading  the  knowledge  of 
the  Gospel  through  the  neighboring  countries. 

Goiiei-nment.  Siberia  is  divided  into  two  great  governments, 
that  of  Tobolsk  in  the  west,  and  Irkutsk  in  the  east.  The  smaller 
provinces  are  Kolivan,  Nershinsk,  Yakutsk,  and  Ochotsk.  In  the 
8.  W.  is  the  government  of  Caucasus,  with  one  or  two  other  di- 
visions, intermingling  Europe  and  Asia.  At  a  distance  from  the 
capital  the  government  becomes  proportionably  lax,  and  tribute 
is  the  chief  mark  of  subjecticJn. 

Population.  See  Table.  The  population  of  Siberia,  according 
to  Tooke,  cannot  be  computed  at  above  three  millions  and  a  half. 
Small  Russian  colonics  have  been  established  in  several  of  the 
distant  provinces  and  isles. 

Mannera  and  Custovis.  The  manners  and  customs  of  Asiatic 
Russia  vary  with  the  tribes  by  whom  that  extensive  region  is 
peopled.  The  Tartars,  properly  so  called,  are  the  most  numerous, 
not  only  remaining  in  their  ancient  kingdom  of  Siberia,  but  con- 
stituting many  other  tribes  in  the  west.  Next  in  importance  are 
the  Monguls,  of  whom  one  tribe,  the  Kalmuks,  are  found  to  the 
west  of  the  Caspian  ;  while  the  others,  called  Burats,  Tonguts, 
-&C.  are  chiefly  around  the  sea  of  Baikal.  Yet  farther  to  the  ea^t 
arc  the  Mandshurs,  or  Funguses.  The  manners  of  the  Tartars, 
who  are  the  same  people  with  the  Huns  of  antiquity,  are  minutely- 
described  by  those  authors  who  have  delineated  the  fall  of  the 
•Roman  empire. 

The  Monguls  are  rather  short  in  stature,  with  a  flat  visage, 
small  oblique  eyes,  thick  lips,  and  a  short  chin,  with  a  scanty 
beard  ;  the  hair  black,  and  the  complexion  of  a  reddish  or  yellow- 
ish brown  ;  but  that  of  the  women  is  clear,  and  of  a  healthy  white 
and  red.  They  have  surprising  quickness  of  sight  and  appre- 
hension, and  arc  docile,  hospitable,  beneficent,  active,  and  volup. 
tuous.  Such,  with  some  slight  shades  of  difference,  are  also  the 
manners  of  the  Tartars  and  Mandshurs. 

The  three  distinct  barbaric  nations  of  Tartars,  Monguls,  and 
Tunguses,  or  Mandshurs,  are  by  far  the  most  interesting  in  these 
middle  regions  of  Asia,  as  their  ancestors  have  overturned  the 
greatest  empires,  and  repeatedly  influenced  the  destiny  of  half 
the  globe.  Of  these  the  Monguls  are  the  chief  people,  and  the  ac- 
count already  given  of  tlieir  manners  will  suffice  to  impart  an  idea 
•of  the  ethical  condition  of  Asiatic  JRussia. 

Language.  The  languages  of  all  these  original  nations  are 
radically  different ;  and  among  the  Tunguses,  Monguls,  and  Tar- 
tars, there  are  some  slight  traces  of  literature  ;  and  not  a  few 
manuscripts  in  their  several  languages.  The  history  of  the  Tar- 
tars, by  Abulgasi,  is  a  favorable  specimen  of  Tartaric  composi- 
tion. Tlie  late  emperor  of  China  ordered  many  of  the  best  Chi- 
nese v/oiks  to  oe  translated  into  the  Mandshur  language,  which, 
having  an  alphabet,  may  be  more  easily  acquired  than  the  origi- 
nal. h\  the  Morigul  language  there  are  also  many  books,  written 
in  the  various  countries  to  which  their  wide  conquests  extended. 
Superior,  even  amid  their  barbarism,  to  the  chief  original  nations 


RUSSIAN  EMPIRE  IN  ASIA.  s2t 

of  Africa  and  America,  the  central  races  of  Asia  deserve   an  at- 
tention, which  has  been  lavished  upon  inferior  oljjects. 

Cities  and  Tonvns.  In  Asiatic  Russia,  the  principal  city  is  As- 
trachan,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Volga,  which  is  supposed  to  contain 
70,000  inhabitants.  This  city  was  founded  by  the  Mona;uls  of 
Kipschak.  In  1554  the  Monguls  were  expelled,  Astrachan  is 
built  on  several  small  hills,  that  rise  amid  the  meadows  of  the 
Volga.  There  are  25  Russian  churches,  and  2  convents.  The 
Armenians,  Lutherans,  and  Papists,  have  also  their  jjlaces  of  wor- 
ship ;  and  even  the  Hindoos  have  beep  permitted  to  erect  a. 
temple. 

Azof,  on  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Don,  is  of  small  importance,  ex- 
cept as  a  fortified  post. 

On  passing  the  Uralian  chain,  fa-st  occurs  the  city  of  Tobolsk^ 
which  contains  only  about  15,000  souls  ;  but  is  esteemed  the  cap- 
ital  of  Siberia.  Tobolsk  is  more  distinguished  as  the  residence 
of  the  governor  and  archbishop,  than  for  the  importance  of  its 
commerce.  The  upper  town  stands  on  a  hill,  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Irtish,  and  contains  a  stone  fortress  of  some  strength.  Intlian 
goods  are  brought  here  by  Kalmuck  and  Bucharian  merchants, 
and  provisions  are  cheap  and  plentiful. 

Kolyvan  is  a  town  of  some  consequence,  on  the  river  Ob.  In 
the  neighborhood  there  are  silver  mines  of  considerable  produce. 
To  the  north  of  Kolyvan  is  Tomsk,  said  to  contain  about  8000 
souls. 

On  the  river  Angara,  which  issues  from  the  sea  of  Baikal,  stands 
Irkutsk,  supposed  to  contain  12,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  chief 
mart  of  the  commerce  between  Russia  and  China,  the  see  of  an 
archbishop,  and  the  seat  of  supreme  jurisdiction  over  eastern  Si- 
beria.* The  numerous  officers  and  magistrates  have  introduced 
the  custonas  and  fashions  of  Petersburg,  and  European  equipages 
are  not  uncommon  in  this  distant  region. 

On  the  wide  and  frozen  Leaia,  stands  Yakutsk,  with  some  stone 
churches  ;  but  the  houses  are  mostly  of  wood,  and  inhabited  chief-' 
ly  by  Russians.  The  Lena  is  here  about  two  leagues  in  width,- 
(though  about  700  miles  from  its  mouth)  but  is  greaily  impeded 
■with  ice  ;  and  there  are  only  a  few  small  barks,  chicfiy  employed 
in  supplying  the  town  with  provisions.  Ochoisk,  on  the  sea  of  the 
same  name,  may  be  rather  regarded  as  a  station  than  a  town. 

Manufactures!.  There  are  some  manuf.ictures,  particularly  ia 
leather,  at  Astrachan  ;  and  salt  is  prepared  there,  and  in  several 
other  places  in  Asiatic  Russia.  Isinglass  is  ciiiefly  manufactured 
on  the  shores  of  the  Caspian,  from  the  sounds  or  air  bladder  of  the 
sturgeon,  and  the  beluga.  Kuviar  is  the  salted  roe  of  large  fish. 
There  is  a  considerable  manufacture  of  nitre,  about  40  miles  north 
of  Astrachan.  The  Tartars  and  Bashkirs  make  felts  of  a  large 
size,  some  ot  which  are  exported.  The  Russian  leatiier  is  chiefly 
fabricated  in  the  European  provinces,  being  tanned  with  willow- 
bark,  and  afterwards  stained.     Shagreen  is   prepared   from  the 

*  Lcsscps,  ii.  344, 


ii^s  RUSSIAN  EMPIRE  IN  ASIA. 

Jiides  of  horses  or  asses,  but  only  a  particular  part  of  the  back  is' 
fit  for  this  purpose  ;  and  the  grain  is  given  with  the  hard  seeds  of 
the  greater  orach,  pressed  into  the  leather  while  moist.*  Pitch  is 
made  by  the  boors  from  the  pines  of  Siberia.  Near  the  Uralian 
mountains  are  several  manufactures  in  iron  and  copper. 

Co?nmerce.  The  chief  commerce  of  this  part  of  the  Russian 
empire  consists  in  sables,  and  other  valuable  furs,  which  are  ea- 
gerly bou.^^ht  by  the  Chinese,  who  return  tea,  silk,  and  porcelain  ; 
that  with  the  Kirguses  is  carri-ed  on  by  exchanging  Russian  wool- 
len cloths,  iron,  and  household  articles,  for  horses,  cattle,  sheep, 
and  beautiful  sheep-skins.  On  the  Black  sea  there  is  some  com- 
merce with  Turkey,  the  exports  being  furs,  kaviar,  iron,  linen, 
&c.  and  the  imports  wine,  fruit,  coffee,  silks,  rice.  In  the  trade 
on  tiie  Caspian,  the  exports  are  the  same,  but  the  return  chiefly 
silk.  The  principal  Russian  harbors  are  Astrachan,  Gurief,  and 
Kisliur,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Terek,  but  the  best  Ivaven  is  Baku, 
belonging  to  the  Persians.  The  Tartars,  on  the  east  of  the  Caspi- 
an, bring  the  products  of  then*  country,  and  of  Bucharia,  as  cotton 
yarn,  furs,  stuff's,  hides,  rhubarb  ;  but  the  chief  article  is  raw  silk 
from  Shirvan  and  Ghilan)  on  the  west  of  the  Caspian. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  In  Asiatic  Russia  the  climate  extends 
from  the  vine  at  the  bottom  of  Caucasus,  to  the  solitary  lichen,  on 
the  rocks  of  the  Arctic  ocean.  Through  the  greater  part  of  Sibe- 
ria, the  most  southern  frontier  being  about  50°,  while  the  northern 
ascends  to  78°  ;  the  general  climate  may  more  justly  be  regarded 
as  frigid  than  temperate  ;  being,  in  three  quarters  of  the  country, 
on  a  level  with  that  of  Norway  and  Lapland,  unsoftened  by  the 
gales  of  the  Atlantic.  To  the  south  of  the  sea  of  Baikal,  the  cli- 
itiate  parallels  that  of  Berlin  and  the  north  of  Germany,  so  that  the 
fiiiest  and  most  fertile  regions  in  middle  Asia  belong  to  the  Chinese. 

Face  of  the  Country.  In  a  general  view  of  Asiatic  Russia,  the 
northern  and  eastern  parts  present  vast  marshy  plains,  covered  with 
almost  perpetual  snow,  and  pervaded  by  enormous  rivers,  which, 
under  masses  of  ice,  pursue  their  dreary  way  to  the  Arctic  ocean. 
Even  the  central  parts  of  Siberia  seem  destitute  of  trees,  vegetation 
being  checked  by  the  severe  cold  of  so  wide  a  continent.  Towards 
the  soirth  there  are  vast  forests.  The  sublime  scenes  around  the 
sea  of  Baikal  are  agreeably  contrasted  with  the  marks  of  human  in- 
dustry, the  cultivated  field  and  the  garden. f 

Soil  and  .Agriculture.  Many  parts  of  Siberia  are  totally  incapa- 
ble of  agriculture  ;  but  ii»  the  southern  and  western  districts  the 
soil  is  of  remarkable  fertility-  Toward  the  north  of  Koly  van  barley 
generally  yields  more  than  twelve  fold,  and  oats  commonly  twenty 
told.  Exclusive  of  winter  wheat,  most  of  the  usual  European 
grains  prosper  in  southern  Siberia.  The  best  rhubarb  abounds  on 
the  banks  of  the  Ural,  or  Jaik,  in  the  southern  districts  watered  by 
the  Yencsei,  and  in  the  mountains  of  Daouria. 

But  in  no  part  of  the  Russian  empire  has  agriculture  made  much 
progress,  nor  indeed  is  it  possible,  while  the  peasantry  are  slaves, 
and  sold  with  the  soil. 

*  Tooke's  View,  iii,  531.        f  See  Bell's  animated  description  of  this  regton; 


CHINESE  EMPmE.  52% 

Rivers.  Some  of  the  largest  rivers  of  Asia  belong  to  the  Rus- 
sian empire,  nearly  equalling  in  the  lengtl\  of  their  course  any  oth- 
■crs  on  the  globe.  Of  these  the  principal  are  the  Oby,  the  Yenesei, 
jhe  Lena,  the  Amur,  and  the  Wolga,  which  have  been  already  de- 
scribed. 

Mountain.^.  The  Uralian  and  Altaian  mountains  pass  through 
this  region,  and  have  been  already  described. 

Ste/i/is.  On  the  eastern  side  of  the  \,Volga  begins  an  extensive; 
litepp,  formerly  called  that  of  the  Kalmulcs,  from  tribes  who  used 
to  roam  there,  till  they  withdrew  from  the  Russian  dominions  in 
lt7\.  To  the  S.  it  is  bounded  by  the  Caspian  Sea,  and  the  lake 
Aral  ;  while  to  the  N.  it  may  be  regarded  as  connected  with  the 
stepp  of  Issim  ;  and  on  the  E.  may  be  considered  as  extending  to 
the  river  Sarusa  ;  the  greater  part  not  belonging  to  the  Russiaii 
dominions,  but  being  abandoned  to  the  wandering  Kirguses.  This 
vast  desert  extends  about  700  miles  from  E.  to  W.  and  including 
Issim,  nearly  as  far  from  N-  to  S.  but  on  the  N.  of  the  Caspian  the 
breadth  does  not  exceed  220.  A  ridge  of  satidy  hills  stretches 
from  near  the  termination  of  the  Uralian  chain  towards  the  Cas- 
jpian  ;  the  rest  is  a  prodigious  sandy  level,  with  sea  shells,  and  salt 
pools. 

The  stepp  of  Barabin,  N.  W.  of  Omsk,  is  about  400  miles  in 
length,  and  300  in  breadth,  containing  a  few  salt  lakes,  but  in  gen- 
eral of  a  good  black  soil,  interspersed  with  forests  of  birch.  That 
of  Issim  aspires  but  rarely  to  the  same  quality  :  and  in  both  are 
found  many  tombs,  inclosing  the  remains  of  pastoral  chiefs,  Tartar 
or  Mongul. 

ISLANDS  BELONGING  TO  ASIATIC  RUSSIA. 

The  Kurilian  isles  extend  from  the  southern  promontory  of 
■Kamchatka  towards  the  land  of  Jesso  and  Japan,  being  supposed 
to  be  about  20  in  number,  of  which  the  largest  are  Poro  Muschir, 
and  Mokanturu.  Several  of  these  islands  arc  volcanic  ;  and  some 
contain  forests  of  birch,  alder,  and  pine.  Most  of  them  swarm, 
ivith  foxes  of  various  colors.  Even  after  the  discoveries  of  La  Pe- 
rouse,  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  what  pariicvslar  isles  in  the  south 
of  this  chain  are  implied  by  the  Russian  apjjellations,  and  it  would 
even  appear  that  the  Russian  navigators  had,  with  their  usual  con- 
fusion, described  the  same  islands  under  difTtrent  names.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  Kurilian  isles  seem  to  be  of  similar  origin  with 
the  Kamchadals  ;  and  in  the  interior  of  some  is  a  people  called 
haii-y  Kurilians,  from  what  circumstance  is  not  explained. 


THE  CHINESE  EMPIRE. 

THE  Chinese  empire,  embracing  the  extensive  conquests  of  the 
western  countries,   made  the  last  century,  may  now  be  considered 
■as  extending  from  those  parts  of  the  Pacifir,  ocean  railed  the  Ghi- 
P7 


530. 


CHINESE  EMPIRE. 


nese  and  Japanese  seas,  to  the  rivers  Sarasou  and  Sihon  in  the  W. 
a  space  of  8 1°,  which,  takintjj  the  medial  latitude  of  30°,  will  amount 
to  nearly  4900  miles.  Frotn  N.  to  S.  this  vast  empire  may  be 
computed  from  the  Uraliun  mountains,  lat.  50°,  to  the  southern  part 
of  Cliina,  about  lat.  21°,  being  20°  of  latitude,  nearly  2030  miles. 

This  empire,  therefore,  consists  of  three  principal  divisions  ;, 
that  of  China  Proper;  Chinese  Tartary,  or  the  territory  of  the 
Mandshurs,  Monguls,  and  Cashj^ar,  on  the  N.and  W. ;  and  lastly, 
Tributary  Dominions,  embracing,  among;  other  countries,  tlie  sin- 
gular and  interesting^  region  of  Pibet.  These  countries,  which  are 
arranged  in  the  following  table,  from  Hassel,  are  not  only  so  wide 
and  important,  but  are  so  radically  diffuient  in  the  form  of  govern- 
ment, in  the  manners,  and  other  circumstances,  that  it  will  be  prop- 
er to  describe  each  apart. 


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53®  CHINA  PROPER. 

jfjRST  nirisiojv. 
CHINA  PROPER. 

Extent  and  Boundaries.  CHINA  PROPER  extends  from  th* 
great  wall  in  the  north,  to  the  Chinese  sea  in  the  south,  about  1320^ 
Hiiles.  The  breadth  from  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  to  the  frontiers 
of  Tibet,  may  be  computed  at  1030  miles.  In  square  miles  the 
contents  have  been  estimated  at  1,297,999.*  On  the  east  aad  southj^ 
the  boundaries  are  maritime,  and  lo  the  north  they  are  marked  by 
the  great  wall,  and  the  desert  of  Shamo ;  by  Tibet  on  the  west. 

Antiquities.  The  chief  remain  of  ancient  art  m  China  is  that 
stupendous  wall,  extending  across  the  northern  boundary .t  This 
■work,  which  is  deservedly  esteemed  amonj^  the  E;randest  labors  of 
?irt,  is  conducted  over  the  summits  of  high  mountains,  some  of 
■which  rise  to  the  height  of  5225  feet,  across  the  deepest  vales,  over 
■wide  rivers,  by  means  of  arches ;  and  in  many  parts  is  doubled  or 
trebled  to  command  important  passes,  and  at  the  distance  of  almost 
every  hundred  yards  is  a  lower,  or  massy  bastion.  The  extent  is 
computed  at  1 5Q0  miles  ;  but  in  some  parts  of  smaller  danger,  it  is 
not  equally  strong  nor  complete,  and  towards  the  N  W.  is  only  a 
rampart  of  earth,  l^or  the  precise  height  and  dimensions  of  this 
amazing  fortiii cation,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  work  already 
quoted,  whence  it  appears,  that  near  Koopeko  the  wall  is  25  teet 
in  height,  and  at  the  top  about  15  feet  thick  :  some  of  the  towersj 
■which  are  square,  are  48  feet  high,  and  about  50  feet  wide.  The 
stone  employed  in  the  foundations,  angles,  &c.  is  a  strong,  grey 
granite ;  but  the  greatest  part  consists  of  bluish  bricks,  and  the 
jnortar  is  rcmarkabiy  pure  aad  white. 

Religion.  According  to  Du  Halde,  the  ancient  Chinese  wor- 
shipped a  supreme  being,  whom  they  styled  Chang  Ti,  or  Tien,, 
■which  is  said  to  imply  the  spirit,  which  presides  over  the  heavens  j 
but  in  the  opinion  of  others,  is  only  the  visible  firmament.  They 
also  worshipped  subaltern  spirits,  who  presided  over  kingdoms, 
provinces,  cities,  rivers,  and  mountains.  Under  this  system, 
■which  corresponds  with  what  is  called  Shamanism,  sacrifices  were 
offered  on  the  summits  of  hills. 

About  A.  D.  65,  tlie  sect  of  Fo  was  introduced  into  China  from 
Hindostan.  The  name  was  derived  from  the  idol  Fo,  (supposed 
to  be  the  Boodh  of  Hindostan,)  and  the  chief  tenets  are  those  of 
the  Hindoos,  among  which  is  the  metempsycosis,  or  transmigra- 
tion of  souls  from  one  animal  to  another.  The  priests  are  denom- 
inated Bonzes,  and  Fo  is  suppos.ed  to  be  gratified  by  the  favor 
shewn  to  his  servants.  Many  subordinate  idols  are  admitted  ;  but 
as  the  Jesuits  found  the  followers  of  Fo  the  most  adverse  to  Chris- 
tianity, they  have  without  foundation  called  tliem  Atheists. 

A  Jewish  colony  appeared  in  China,  under  the  dynasty  oi  HaTi^ 
%vho  began  to  ri-ign  in  the  206lh   year  before  Christ.     It  was  re- 

*  Macartney's  Emb.  iii.  Appen.  f  Sir  G,  Staunton,  ii.  360,  Svo. 


CHINA  PROPEK.  oT2 

duced  to  seven  families,  when  F.  Gcizani,  a  Jesuit  missionary,  vis- 
ited it ;  which  families  were  established  at  Cai-IouK,  the  capital  of 
the  pioviPiCe  of  Honan.  They  had  a  synagogue,  in  which  were 
thirteen  tabtrnucles,  placed  upon  tal)les,  each  surrounded  by  t>maU 
cuiiaiijs.  I  he  sacred  K-m  of  Moses  (the  Pentateuch")  was  shut 
up  in  .ach  of  these  tabernacles,  twelve  of  which  represented  the 
twelve  tribeb  of  Israel;  tiie  thiru.enth,  Moses.  I'lje  lK)oks  were 
•written  in  a  neat,  distinct  hand,  on  lun.^  pieces  of  paicho.^.nt,  aiid 
folded  on  rollers.  In  the  middle  of  the  synaj^ogue  stands  tlie  chair 
of  Mosi  s,  in  which  every  Saturuay,  and  on  days  of  great  solemnity, 
they  piiv-;e  ilie  Pentateuch,  and  read  some  portions  of  it.* 

The  Iloly  Scriptures  are  now  in  a  course  of  translation,  by  sev- 
eral hands,  into  the  Chinese  language.  Christian  missionaries  arc 
sent  to  sonic  parts  of  these  vast  and  populous  dominions,  and  hope 
is  entertained  that  these  people,  who  have  so  Ion?  sal  in  daikness, 
•will  receive  and  enjoy  the  light  and  blessings  of  the  Gospel.  An 
edict  was  issued  in  1812,  by  the  emperor  of  China,  against  Chris- 
tianity, making  it  death  tor  any  person  to  embrace  or  propagate  it. 

Governmenc.  The  government  of  China  is  well  known  to  bo 
patriarchal.  The  emperor  is  indeed  absolute  ;  but  the  examples 
ot  tyranny  are  rare,  as  he  is  taught  to  legard  his  people  as  his 
cl.ildren,  and  not  as  his  slaves.  All  tlie  officers  of  government 
pass  ihrougn  a  regular  education,  and  a  progress  of  raisk,  which 
are  held  iijdispensablc.  Gf  these  officers  who  have  been  called 
mandarins,  or  commanders,  by  the  Portuguese,  tliere  are  nine 
classes,  from  the  judge  of  the  village  to  the  prime  minister. 

The  governors  of  the  provinces  have  great  and  absoiuic  power, 
yet  rebellions  are  not  unfrequent.  Bribery  is  also  an  universal 
vice  ;  and  the  Chinese  government,  like  most  others,  is  more  cor- 
rect in  the  theory,  than  in  practice, 

Poftulation.     See  table. 

As  the  Chinese  laws  permit  no  native  to  leave  his  country,  there 
can  be  no  colonies  properly  so  called. f 

Army.  The  army  has  been  computed  by  Barrow,  at  l,000,00f) 
infantry,  and  800,000  cavalry.  Hasscl,  however,  from  Desgiiigncs, 
estimates  them  only  at  600,000  infantry,  and  210,000  cavalry. 

Bevetme.  SirGeorge  Staunton  estimates  the  revenue>C6o,000,000 
sterling.  This  is  also  the  estimate  of  Barrow  ;  who  adds,  ti.at 
when  the  expenses  are  deducted,  only  12,000,000  slerlinjr  are  Icli 
for  the  treasury  of  the  empire,  out  of  which  the  expenses  of  the  em- 
pire being  paid,  the  surplus  goes  into  the  crown  treasury.  Des- 
guignes  fixes  the  highest  amount  of  the  revenue,  at  more  than  a 
third  less  than  the  estimates  of  Staunton  and  Barrow. 

Manners  and  Customs,  The  Chinese,  in  their  persons  are  mid- 
dle sized,  their  faces  broad,  their  eyes  black  and  small,  their  noses 
rather  short.     The  Chmese  have  particular  ideas  of  beauty.     Tlicy 

•  Abbe  Grosier,  vol.  ii.  chap.  7,  p.  259. 

f  Yet  the  number  of  Chinese  at  Batavia,  and  other  situations  ia  the  Orienta. 
Archipelago,  many  of  whom  pass  as  traders  to  and  from  their  country,  sheiv^ 
«feat  these  laws  are  little  regarded. 


'534  CHINA  PROPER. 

pluck  up  the  hairs  of  the  lower  part  of  their  fa^s  by  the  roots  with 
tweezers,  leaving  a  few  straggling  ones  by  way  of  beard.  Their 
Tartar  princes  compel  them  to  cut  off"  the  hair  of  their  heads,  and 
like  Mahometans,  to  wear  only  a  lock  on  the  crown.  Their  com- 
plexion towards  the  north  is  fair,  towards  tlie  south,  swarthy,  and 
the  fatter  a  man  is,  they  think  him  tl^e  handsomer.  Men  of  qual- 
ity and  learning,  who  are  not  much  exposed  to  the  sun  have  deli- 
cate complexions,  and  they  who  are  bred  to  letters  let  the  nails  of 
their  fingers  grow  to  an  enormous  length,  to  shew  that  they  are 
BOt  employed  in  manual  labor. 

The  women  have  little  eyes,  plump  rosy  lips,  black  hair,  regu- 
lar features,  and  a  delicate  though  florid  complexion.  The  small- 
ness  of  their  feet  is  reckoned  a  principal  part  of  their  beauty,  and 
no  swatliing  is  omitted,  when  they  are  young,  to  give  them  that 
accomplishment,  so  that  when  they  grow  up,  they  may  be  said  to 
totter  rather  than  to  walk. 

LaJiguage.  The  language  of  the  Chinese  is  of  a  regular  and  sys- 
tematic formation.  Their  alphabet  is  composed  of  214  elementary 
characters,  or /cr/^r^.  By  the  various  combinations  of  these  ele- 
ments, all  the  other  characters  or  tvords  in  the  language  are  formed. 

All  the  v.'ords  of  the  Chinese  language  are  monosyllables.  They 
have  selected  36  characters  for  initial,  and  14  for  final  sounds. 
The  initial  sounds  are  all  consonants,  the  final  all  vowels,  liquids  or 
nasals.  Ly  coudiining  these  are  formed  432  monosyllables,  and 
by  variously  niodifying  the  sounds  of  the  finals,  together  with  the 
application  of  accent  and  quantity,  the  whole  nuniber  of  monosylla- 
bles has  been  extended  to  2178.  The  whole  number  of  characters 
or  words  in  the  language  is  35,000.  Dividing  this  by  2178,  the 
number  of  monosyllables,  it  will  be  readily  seen,  that  the  same 
pronunciation  is  used  for  sixteen  different  words.  This  is  an  in- 
convenience peculiar  to  the  Chinese  language,  and  in  colloquial 
eliscourse  must  sonietimes  prove  a  serious  embarrassment, 

Educaiion.  The  schools  of  education  are  numerous,  but  the 
.•children  of  the  poor  are  chiefly  taught  to  follow  the  business  of 
^heir  fathers. 

Cities  and  Tcwuf:.  The  chief  cities  of  China  are  Pekin  and 
Nankin,  or  the  northern  and  southern  courts.  Pekin  occupies  a 
large  space  of  ground  ;  but  the  streets  are  wide,  and  the  houses 
seldom  exceed  one  story.  The  length  of  what  is  called  the  Tar- 
tar city  according  to  Staunton,  is  about  four  miles,  and  the  suburbs 
•aie  considerable.  The  population  was  computed  at  3,000,000. 
The  houses  indeed  are  neither  large  nor  numerous  ;  but  it  is  com- 
nrinn  to  find  three  generations  with  all  the  wives  and  children  un- 
der one  roof,  as  they  eat  in  common,  and  one  room  contains  many 
beds.  The  neatness  of  the  houses  and  various  furniture  and  goods 
of  the  shops  delight  the  eye  of  the  visitor. 

Nankin,  which  was  the  residence  of  the  court  till  the  fifteenth 
century,  is  a  yet  more  extensive  city  than  Pekin,  and  is  reputed 
the  largest  in  the  empire.  The  walls  are  said  to  be  about  17  miles 
in  circumference.  The  chief  edifices  arc  the  gates  with  a  few 
temples  ;  and  a  celebrated  tower  covered  with  porcelain,  about  200 


CHINA  PROPEI^.  555 

£eet  in  height.  Such  towers  were  styled  pagodas  by  the  Portu- 
guese,  who  supposed  them  to  be  temples  ;  but  they  seem  to  have 
been  chiefly  erected  as  memorials,  or  as  ornaments,  like  the  Gre- 
cian and  Roman  columns. 

To  the  European  reader  one  of  the  most  interesting  cliies  is 
Canton,  which  is  said  lo  contain  a  million  and  a  half  of  inhabitants, 
numerous  families  residing  in  barks  on  the  river.  The  European 
factories,  with  their  national  flags,  are  no  small  oruameuls  to  this 
city.  The  chief  export  is  that  of  tea,  of  which  it  is  said  that  about 
13,000,000  of  pounds  are  consumed  by  Great  Bi-ituin  and  her  de- 
pendencies, and  about  5,000,000  by  the  rest  of  Europe,  beside  the 
immense  quantily  biought  to  America.  The  imports  from  Eng- 
land, chiefly  woollens,  with  lead,  tin,  furs,  and  other  articles,  are 
supposed  to  exceed  a  million  ;  and  the  exports  a  million  and  a 
half,  besides  the  trade  between  China  and  the  English  possessions 
in  Hindostan.  Other  nations  carry  to  Canton  the  value  of  about 
200,0001.  and  re»jrn  with  articles  to  the  value  of  about  600,000!. 
So  that  the  balance  in  favor  of  China  may  bo  computed  at  a  million 
sterling. 

The  other  large  cities  of  China  are  almost  innumerable  ;  and 
many  of  the  villages  are  of  a  surprising  size.  Of  the  cities,  Sln- 
gan  IS  by  some  esteemed  equal  to  Pckin.  In  general  the  plan  and 
fortifications  are  similar  ;  and  a  Mandshur  garrison  is  carefully 
maintained. 

Inland  jVaxiigafiov..  The  canals  of  China  have  long  excited 
the  wonder  of  other  nations.  As  the  two  grand  rivers  Hoanho 
and  Kianku  bend  their  course  from  west  to  cast,  the  chief  object 
was  to  intersect  the  empire  from  north  to  south  ;  which  was  in  a 
great  measure  accomplished  by  the  imperial  canal.  This  wonder- 
ful work,  which  in  utility  and  labor  exceeds  the  enormous  wall, 
is  said  to  have  been  begun  in  the  tenth  century  of  the  Christian 
era,  30,000  men  having  been  employed  for  43  years  in  its  comple- 
tion. 

This  great  work  differs  much  from  the  canals  of  Europe, 
which  are  generally  protracted  in  straight  lines,  vvithi:^  narrow 
bounds,  and  v.nthout  a  current,  whereas  th.at  of  China  is  wiiidinr^ 
otten  m  its  course,  of  unequal  and  sometimes  consi.lci-abic  width, 
and  its  waters  are  seldom  stagnant. 

It  begins  at  Lin-sin-choo,  where  it  joins  the  river  Eu-ho,  and  ex- 
tends to  Han-choo-foo,  in  an  irregular  line  of  about  500  miles, 
where  it  joins  the  Hoan-ho,  or  Yellow  river,  and  is  al)out  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  I'he  cominodiousncss  and  length  of 
the  Chinese  canals  are  incredible.  The  chief  of  them  are  lined 
with  hewn-stone  on  t!ie  si<ies,  and  they  are  so  deep  that  tliey  carry 
large  vessels,  and  sometimes  they  extend  a!)ove  1000  miles  in 
length.  The  royal  canal  from  Canton  to  Pekin  is  82j  miles  lon.g, 
50  tcet  wide,  and  9  feet  deep.  The  vessels  are  fitted  up  for  all  the 
conveniences  of  life;  and  it  has  l)een  thouglu  by  some,  tliat  in  Ciii-' 
na  the  water  contains  as  many  iiihubitants  as  the  land.  Tin  y  arc 
furnished  witli  stone  quays,  and  sometimes  with  bridges  of  an  nmaz-- 
ing  construction.     The  navigation  is  slow,  and  tiic  vessels  sonic- 


536  CHINA  PROPER. 

times  drawn  'oy  men.  About  10,000  boats  from  200  tons  and  undey* 
are  kept  at- the  public  expense.  No  precautions  are  wantin'^;:;  that 
Could  be  forntied  by  art  or  perseverance,  for  the  safety  of  the  pas- 
sengers, in  case  a  canal  is  crossed  by  a  rapid  river,  or  exposed  tof 
torrents  from  the  mountains.  These  canals,  and  the  variety  that  is 
seen  upon  the  borders,  render  China  the  most  delightful  to  the  eye 
of  any  country  in  the  world,  as  well  as  fertile,  in^  places  that  are  not 
so  by  nature. 

Maiutfactzcres  and  Coinmerce.  The  manufactures  of  China  are 
so  mdlifirious  as  to  embrace  almost  every  article  of  industry.  The 
most,  noted  manufacture  is  tiiai  of  porcelain,  and  is  followed  in  trade 
by  tiiose  of  silk,  cotton.  Sec.  They  make  paper  of  the  bark  of  bam-* 
boo,  and  other  trees,  as  well  as  of  cotton,  but  not  comparable  for 
records,  or  printing,  to  the  European.  I'heir  ink,  for  the  use  of 
drawing,  is  well  known  in  England,  and  is  said  to  be  made  of  oil 
and  Ianii>!)lack.  Their  printuig  is  done  by  cutting  their  characters 
on  blocks  of  wood.  The  porcelain  of  China  has  been  celebrated 
from  remote  ages,  and  is  chiefly  prepared  from  a  pure  white  clay. 

The  internal  commerce  of  China  is  immense,  but  the  external 
trade  is  comparatively  small,  considering  the  vastness  of  the  em- 
pire ;  a  scanty  intercourse  exists  with  Russia  and  Japan  :  but  the 
chief  export  is  that  of  tea,  which  is  sent  to  England  and  America, 
between  one  and  two  millions  yearly.  The  principal  port  for  for- 
eign trade  is  Canton. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  The  European  and  American  intercourse 
with  China  being  chiefly  confined  to  the  southern  part  of  the  em- 
pire, the  climate  is  generally  considered  as  hot,  whereas  the  north- 
ern part  of  this  extensive  country  is  liable  to  all  the  rigors  of  the 
European  or  North  American  winter.* 

J^'acc  of  the  Country.  The  face  of  the  country  is  greatly  diver- 
sified ;  and  though  in  a  general  view  it  be  flat  and  fertile,  and  in- 
tersected with  numerous  large  rivers  and  canals,  yet  there  are 
chains  of  granitic  mountains  and  other  districts  of  a  wild  and  sav- 
age nature.  Cultivation  has  however  considerably  reduced  the 
number  and  extent  of  such  features.  In  general  the  appearance  of 
tlic  country  is  rendered  singularly  picturesque  by  the  peculiar  style 
of  the  buildings,  and  uncommon  form  of  the  trees  and  plants. 

The  soil  is  various,  and  agriculture  by  the  account  of  all  travel- 
lers is  can  ied  to  tlie  utmost  degree  of  perfection.  The  emperor 
himself  sets  an  annual  example  of  the  veneration  due  to  agricul- 
ture, the  first  and  most  important  province  of  human  industry. 

The  great  object  of  Chinese  agriculture,  the  production  of  grain, 
is  generally  obtained  with  little  manure,  and  without  letting  the 
land  lie  fallow.  Irrigation  is  practised  to  a  very  great  extent.  The 
husbandry  is  singularly  neat,  and  not  a  weed  is  to  be  seen. 

Fivers.  In  describing  the  rivers  of  this  great  empire  two  are 
^vel!  known  to  deserve  particular  attention,  namely,  the  Hoan-ho 
and  t!ie  Kian-ku.  These  have  been  described.  At  about  ?0  miles 
Viom  tlie  sea,  where  the  former  is  crossed  by  the  imperial  canal^ 

*  Sir  G.  Staunton, 


CHINESE  TARTARY.  Sl^ 

the  breadth  is  little  more  than  a  mile,  and  the  depth  only  about  nine 
or  ten  feet ;  but  the  velocity  equals  seven  or  eight  miles  in  the 
hour.* 

To  these  grand  rivers  many  important  streams  are  tributary. 
The  Amour  and  Argun  form  the  boundary  between  Russian  and 
Chinese  Tartary.  The  Kiam  and  the  Tay  arc  also  considerable 
yivers. 

Common  water  in  China  is  very  indifFerent,  and  is  in  some  places 
boiled  to  make  it  fit  for  use. 

Lakes.  Chhia  is  not  destitute  of  noble  and  extensive  hikes. 
One  more  than  SO  leagues  in  citcumferencc,  auotner  about  30 

Mountains.  Two  grand  rani^es,  running  E  and  W.  iniersect  the 
centre  of  the  empire,  seemingly  coniinualions  of  the  enormous 
chains  of  Tibet.  In  the  southern  part  of  China  the  principal  ridges 
appear  to  run  from  N.  to  S. 

Mineralogy.  A.mong  the  metals  lead  and  tin  seem  to  he  the 
rarest.  China  possesses  mines  of  gold,  silver,  iron,  white  copper, 
common  copper,  and  mercury,  togetrier  with  lapis  lazuii,  jasper, 
rock  crystal,  load  stone,  granhs,  porpdyry,  and  various  marbles.  In 
snany  of  the  northern  provinces  coal  is  found  in  abundance. 

CHINESE  ISLANDS. 

Numerous  isles  are  scattered  along  the  southeni  and  eastern 
coast  of  China,  the  largest  being  those  of  Foi  mosa  and  Hainan. 
Formosa  is  a  recent  acquisition  of  the  Chinese  in  the  latter  end  of 
the  seventeenth  century  ;  the  natives  being  by  the  Chinese  accounts 
little  better  than  Savages.  It  is  divided  from  north  to  south  by 
mountains,  and  the  chief  Chinese  possessions  are  in  the  western 
part.  It  is  attached  to  the  province  of  Fokien,  in  the  vicinity  of 
which  it  lies,  E.  of  Canton.  It  contains,  according  to  Hassel,  about 
22,000  square  miles.  Its  length  is  from  N.  to  S.  between  lat.  22° 
and  25°  N. 

The  southern  part  of  Hainan  is  mountainous,  but  the  northern 
more  level  and  productive  of  rice.  In  the  centre  there  are  mines 
of  gold  ;  and  on  the  shores  are  found  small  blue  fishes,  which  the 
Chinese  esteem  more  than  those,  which  we  call  gold  and  silver 
fish  ;  but  they  only  survive  for  a  few  days,  when  confined  to  a 
small  quantity  of  water.  This  island  is  attached  to  the  piovince 
of  Quangtong,  and  lies  S.  VV.  of  Canton,  between  lat.  lii°  and 
^0°  N. 


SECOJVD  DIVISIOjY. 

CHINESE  TARTARY. 

UNDER  this  division  of  the  Chinese  Empire,  Hassel  include?; 
tt;e  country  of  the  Mandshurs,  Montchoos,  or  Ttmguses,  and  iJhe 

*  Stauntoo, 


538^  CHINESE  TARTARY. 

provin'te  of  Leatong^,  which  lie  N.  of  China  Proper,  bordering  or* 
the  Great  Wall ;  the  country  of  the  Monguls  on  the  N.  W.  tlie 
province  of  Sifan  on  the  W.  between  China  P!(;per  and  Tibet,  and 
Cashgar,  or  Little  Bucharia,  N  W.  of  Tibet ;  covering,  together,- 
2,190,000  square  miles,  and  peopled  by  3,000.000  of  souls.  The 
inhabitants  of  each  of  these  divisions,  according  to  Hasscl,  have 
their  own  hereditary  princ;  i,  who  are  subject  to  the  emperor  of 
China.  Except  the  Maliomctan  Buchires,  these  people  are  chief- 
ly the  followers  of  the  Lama.  Tiiey  contribute  to  the  strength  of 
the  empire  nothing  ^but  troops,  who  themselves  must  be  kept  in 
subjection  by  a  military  force. 

In  tSie  tun  her  description  of  this  division  of  the  Chinese  Empire 
',vc  shall  ftiiiow  Pinkcrion,  whose  account  of  it,  though  imperfects  ~ 
and  somewhat  pt;rpiexed,  is  pi  obably  the  bett  that  can  be  obtained 
of  this  unexplored  and  obscure  region. 

Extent.  This  wide  an«^  interesting  portion  of  Asia,  which  has 
repeatedly  sent  forth  its  swarms  to  deluge  the  arts  and  civilization 
of  Europe,  extends  frcn.  ion.  72°  E-  from  Greenwich,  to  145°  a 
space  of  not  less  than  75°  of  longitude,  which  at  the  medial  latitude 
of  4*;°,  will  yield  aboin.  3  100  miles.  The  breadth  from  the  northern 
frontier  of  Tibet,  to  the  Russian  confiries,  is  about  18  degrees,  or 
1080  miles.  The  northern  boundary  .is  R«ssia.  The  eastern 
boundary  is  the  sea  ;  while  the  southern  extends  along  the  great 
Chinese  wall,  and  the  nortliern  limits  of  Tibet.  The  western  boun-- 
dary  is  the  celebrated  mountains  of  Belur  Tag,  or  the  Cloudy 
Mountains,  which  divide  the  Chinese  empire  from  Balk,  and  the 
Greater  Bucharia  ;  while  the  range  on  the  west  of  the  lake  Palka- 
ti  s.eparates  the  Kalmucs,  subject  to  China,  from  the  Kirguses-ef ' 
Independent  Tartary. 

Original  Pojiulation.  Part  of  the  west  of  this  country  was  held 
by  the  Scythae  of  antiquity,  a  Gothic  race,  who  were  subdued  or 
expelled  by  the  Tartars,  or  Huns,  from  the  east,  pressed  on  the 
other  side  by  the  Monguls.  Beyond  the  latter  were  the  Mand-- 
shurs,  v.ho,  though  inferior  to  the  Monguls  in  power,  yet  retained 
their  ancient  possessions,  and  in  the  17ih  century  conquered  China. 
At  present  the  chief  inhabitants  are  the  Mandshurs  of  the  eastern 
provinces ;  with  the  tribes  denominated  Kalkas,  Eluts,  and  Kal- 
mucs,  who  are  Monguls.  The  information  concerning  central  Asia 
is  indeed  very  lame  and  defective  ;  and  though  the  late  Russian 
travellers  afford  a  few  hints,  yet  the  jealousy  of  the  Chinese,  and 
other  causes,  have  contributed  to  prolong  our  ignorance  concerning-^ 
this  interesting  region. 

Jieligion.  The  religion  most  universally  diffused  in  this  part  of 
Asia,  is  what  has  been  called'  Shamanism,  or  the  belief  in  a  su- 
preme author  of  nature,  who  governs  the  universe  by  the  agency 
of  numerous  inferior  spirits  of  great  power.  The  Kalkas  were  ac- 
customed to  acknowledge  a  living  Lama,  or  great  spirit  embodied  ; 
a  form  of  superstition  which  will  be  better  illustrated  in  the  account 
of  Tibet. 

Government.  The  govemment  was  formerly  monarchical,  with- 
a  strong  mixture  of  aristocracy ,"and  even  of  democracy.    At  pre- 


CHINESE  TART ARY.  52^ 

•"Sent  it  is  conducted  by  princes,  who  pay  homage  to  the  emperor  of 
-.  China,  and  receive  Clvinesc  titles  of  honor ;   but  many  of  the  an- 
-  cient  forms  are  retained.    Though  writing  be  not  unknown  among 
the  Mon^^uls,  yet  the  laws  appear  to  be  chitifly  traditional. 

Pofiulation.     Hassti  estimates  it  at  3,000,uUO. 

JMuinions.  The  country  of  the  MaudsLurs  is  by  the  Chinese 
-divided  into  three  great  governments.  I.  That  of  Chinyaiig,  com- 
•prising  Leaodouij,  surrounded  in  part  by  a  sciong  barrier  of  wood. 
The  ciiiiif  town  is  Chinyang,  also  called  Mugucn,  by  the  Mand- 
'slmrs,  still  a  considerable  place,  with  a  niausokum  of  Knnchi,  re- 
garued  as  the  conqueror  of  China,  and  the  fourider  of  the  reigning 
family.*'  2.  The  ii;overnment  Kircn-Oula,  v»hich  extends  far  to  the 
'N.  E.  where  there  are  many  forests  and  deserts  on  both  sides  of 
the  great  river  Sagalien.  Kiitm,  the  capital,  stands  on  the  river 
Songari,  which  falls  into  the  Sagalien,  or  Amoor,  aiid  was  the  resi- 
dence of  t'^e  Mandshur  general,  who  acted  as  viceroy-t  3.  The 
gov<  rnment  ol  Tsitchicar,  so  called,  fi*om  a  town  recently  founded 
Oil  the  Nonni  Ouia,  where  a  Chuiese  garrison  is  stationed.  The 
Riisbians  call  this  province  Daouria,  from  the  tribe  Tagouri,  who 
poasess  a  great  part  of  this  territory.  The  western  boundary  is 
the  river  Argooii,  the  frontier  between  Russia  and  China.  These 
provinces  having  been  the  seat  of  the  Mandshur  monarchy  before 
tJic  conquest  of  China,  have  since  that,  event  remained  subject  to 
.  their  ancient  sovereigns. 

To  the  west  are  various  iribesof  Monguls,  as  the  Kalkas,  Eluts, 
-<8>  Kdlniucb.  The  Eiuts  have  been  greatly  reduced  by  two  de- 
structive M'ars  agai^.st  the  Chinese,  in  i72o  and  1757;  and  the 
-^reat  chan  has  disappeared.  Their  country  may  be  considered 
Tunder  three  divisions.  1.  That  part  called  Gete,  towards  the  lakes 
cf  Palkati  and  Zaizan.  2.  Little  Bucharia,  the  people  of  which 
are  an  industrious  race  of  a  -distinct  origin.  3.  The  countries  of 
Turfan,  north  of  lake  Lok  Nor.  The  Mandshurs  are  the  most 
populous  race  ;  tlie  Monguls  can  hardly  boast  the  name  of  a  na- 
tion. The  Kirguses,  or  Tartars  proper  01  the  west,  are  confined 
to  a  .small  and  uncertain  district ;  and  may  more  properly  be  con- 
sidered as  belonging  to  Independent  'i'ariary.  To  these  Hassel 
adds  the  Cashgars,  whose  number  he  estimates  at  200,000,  spread- 
ing over  a  territory  of  loO,000  square  miles. 

Manners  and  Customs.     See  Asiatic  Russia. 

The  Mandshurs,  who  here  deserve  particular  notice,  are  little 
distinguishable  in  their  manners  from  the  iN'ionguls.  By  the  ac- 
count of  the  Jesuits,  they  have  no  temples,  nor  idols,  but  worship  a 
supreme  being,  whom  thay  style  emperor  of  heaven.  But  proba- 
bly their  real  creed  is  Shamanism,  or  a  kind  of  rational  polytheism. 

Lant^uage.  The  tluee  languages  of  the  Mandshurs,  Monguls, 
and  Tartars,  radically  differ  from  each  other  ;  the  former  of  which 
appears  to  be  the  most  learned  and  perfect  of  the  Tartaric  idioms. 

Cities  and  Towns.  In  Little  Bucharia  appear  the  cities  of  Cash- 
gar,  Yarkvind,  Kotun,  and  Karia. 

*La  Croix  ii.  221,  f  Du  Halde  iv.  7. 


5#  CHINESE  TARTABY. 

The  country  of  the  Mandshurs  contains  many  villages  and  cittesp. 
as  Hotun  Sagalian  Oula,  so  called  from  its  position  on  that  river,  iUi 
the  country  of  the  Tahouria,  modernized  Daouria  ;  likewise  TsiV 
chikar,  v\ith  Mert;uen,  Petcuua,  Kirin  Oiiia,  and  Ningouta. 

2'rade.    The  principal  trade  of  the  INIamishur  country  consists  m- 
^instnt?,  and  pearib,  found  in   many  rivers,  which  fall  into  the 
Amoor.    Excellent  horses  may  also  be  classed  arccng  the  exports. 
Cashgar  was  formerly  celebrated  for  i\)Usk  and  gold.    Their  towns 
are  rather  stations  for  merchants  tiian  seats  of  commerce. 

Climate.  Though  the  parallel  of  central  AAa  coimv  spend  with 
that  of  France,  and  part  of  Spain,  yet  the  height  and  snows  of  the 
mountainous  ridges  occasion  a  degree  and  continiiance  of  cold  little 
to  be  expected  from  othrr  circumstances.  In  climate  and  p>odac=. 
tions  it  is,  however,  far  superior  to  Siberia. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  appearance  of  this  extensive  regiout 
is  diversified  with  all  the  grand  features  of  nature,  extensive  chains 
of  mountains,  large  rivers,  and  lakes. 

Agriculture.  Among  the  southern  Mandshurs,  and  the  people 
of  Little  Bucharia,  agriculture  is  not  wholly  neglected,  nor  is  wheat 
an  unknown  harvest. 

Rivers,  The  most  important  river  is  that  called  by  the  Rus" 
sians  the  Amur,  or  Amoor,  by  the  Mandshurs,  Sagalian  Oula. 
This  river  has  already  been  described.  The  Russian  waters  of 
Selinga  and  Irtish  pervade  a  part  of  central  Asia.  The  river  of 
Yarkand  has  a  considerable  course  before  it  enters  the  lake  of  Lop, 
The  Hi,  which  falls  into  the  lake  of  Balkash,  is  noted  in  Tartaric 
history. 

Lakes.  Some  of  the  lakes  are  of  great  extent,  as  those  of  Bal- 
kash or  Tengis,  and  Zaizan,  each  about  150  miles  in  length. 

Mountains.  The  vast  ranges  of  mountains  which  intersect  cen» 
tral  Asia  have  already  been  described. 


ISLAND  OF  SAGALIAN,  OR  TCHORA. 

Till  this  large  island  was  explored  by  the  unfortunate  navigator- 
La  Pcrouse,  it  was  supposed  to  be  only  a  small  isle  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Amoor,  the  southern  extremity  being  placed  by  D'Anville 
about  4°,  or  240  geographical  miles,  north  of  Jessn.  By  the  ac= 
count  and  maps  of  La  Perouse  it  is  only  divided  from  Jesso  by  a 
narrow  strait  of  about  20  miles  in  breadth,  since  called  the  strait  o£ 
Perouse.  The  discovery  and  account  of  this  large  island,  which 
extends  from  the  46th°  of  latitude  to  the  54lh°,  or  not  less  than  480. 
geographical  miles  in  length,  by  about  80  of  medial  breadth,  is  the 
most  important  portion  of  that  navigator's  voyage.  The  nativea 
seem  to  approach  to  the  Tartaric  form  ;  and  the  upper  lip  is  coni° 
monly  tatoocd  blue.  The  dress  is  a  loose  robe  of  skins,  or  quilted 
Jiankecn,  with  a  girdle.  Their  huts,  or  cabins,  are  of  timber, 
thatched  with  grass,  with  a  fireplace  in  the  centre.  In  the  south 
are  found  Japanese  articles.  A  little  trade  seems  also  known  with 
Jlhe  Mandshurs  and  the  Russians.    The  centre  is  mountainous,  and 


TRIBUTARY  DOMINIONS  OF  CHINA.  54i 

,well  wooded  with  pine,  willow,  oak,  and  birch  ;  but  the  shores  are 
Jevel,  and  singularly  adapted  to  a^iiculturc.  The  people  are  high- 
ly praised  by  La  Perouse,  as  a  mild  and  intelligent  race  ;  quite  un? 
JiKe  tlie  Mandshurs  or  Chinese. 


THIRD  niVISJGM 

TRIBUTARY  DOMINIONS. 

THIS  division  of  the  Chinese  Empire,  according  to  Hassel,  covr 
ers  776,000  square  miles,  and  has  31,500,000  inhabitants.  It  em- 
braces  the  following  kingdoms  : 

Kingdoms.  Square  miles.  Population. 

Corea  88,000  1,500,000 

Tibet  or  Tangut  370,000  12,000,000 

Annan  165,000  10,000,000 

Tunquin  154,000  8,000,000 

J^eoo  Keoo  Isle? 


1.  K^INGDOM  OF  COREA. 

This  kingdom  is  on  a  large  peninsula,  N.  E.  of  China,  from 
?irhich  it  is  separated  on  the  S.  W.  by  the  Yellow  sea. 

Corea  has  for  many  centuries  been  tributary  to  China.  It  has 
its  own  king  ;  its  chief  city  is  Kinkatao,  of  which  we  know  only  the 
name.  Its  productions  are,  gold,  silver,  iron,  beauiiful  yellow  var- 
nish, white  paper,  ginseng,  with  small  horses  about  S  feet  high, 
furs,  and  lossil  salt.  This  country  boasts  a  population  according  to 
Hassel  of  1,500,000.  All  commerce  with  this  little  kingciom  i^ 
prohibited,  of  course  little  is  known  of  its  former  or  present  state. 


2.  TIBET,  OR  TANGUT. 

This  extensive  kingdom  lies  W.  of  China,  and  N.  of  Hindos- 
tan,  and  borders  on  both.  It  covers,  according  to  Hassel,  370,000 
square  miles,  and  has  a  population  of  12,000,000.  It  embraces  the 
empire  of  the  Dela  Lama,  the  empire  of  the  Teshoo  Lama,  the 
rajahship  of  Bootan,  the  rajahship  of  Nepaul,  or  Nipal,  and  the 
kingdom  of  Setchuen.  Such  are  Hassel's  divisions  ;  who  obscrvesj 
that  the  principal  parts  of  Tibet  are  governed  by  priests  of  the 
Budhistic  order  ;  Dalai  Lama  governs  at  Lassa  ;  Teshoo  Lama,  at 
Tishulamba  ;  Rajah  Daeb,  who  is  a  Lama,  at  Bootan.  Since  the 
grear  1792,  Nepaul  and  Segwin  have  been  under  the  protection  of 
China. 

Extent.  According  to  the  most  recent  maps,  Tibet  extends 
0om  about  the  75th  to  the  10 1st  degree  of  longitude,  which  in  the 


542  TRIBUTARY  DOMINIONS  OF  CHINA." 

■latitude  of  30°  may  be  about  1350  geographical  miles.  The  breadtfcj 
extending  from  the  27th  to  the  35th  degree  of  latitude,  is  about  480 
geographical  miles. 

Fro-vinces.  Tibet  is  divided  into  three  parts,  Upper,  Middle, 
and  Lower.  Upper  Tibet  chiefly  comprises  the  province  of  Na- 
gari,  full  of  horrible  rocks,  and  mountains  covered  with  perpetual 
-anow.  Middle  Tibet  contains  the  provinces  of  Shang,  Ou,  and 
Iviang:  while  the  provinces  of  Lower  Tibet  arc  Takbo,  Congbo, 
and  Kahang. 

Our  Bootan  is  by  the  natives  styled  Decpo,  or  Takbo  :  all  the 
countries  to  the  west  of  which,  as  Moringa,  or  Morung,  Mocam- 
•;pour,  Nepaul,  Gorca,  and  Ktmaoon,  are  not  considered  as  parts  of 
Tibet. 

History.  The  Lan»a  of  Tibet  was  probably  the  Prester  John 
of  the  middle  ages  ;  and  this  strange  appellation  was  as  strangely- 
transferred  by  Portuguese  ignorance,  to  the  emperor  of  Abyssin- 
ia. Polo  intbrmsus  that  Tibet  had  been  ravaged  by  the  MongtilS) 
so  that  in  his  time  it  was  almost  desolate.  The  quiet  succession 
of  the  lamas  afford  few  materials  for  history. 

Religion.  The  religion  of  Tibet  seems  to  be  the  schismatical 
offspring  of  that  of  the  Hindoos.*  It  bears  a  very  close  affinity 
with  the  religion  of  Brahma  in  many  important  particulars,  but 
differs  materialiy  in  its  ritual,  or  ceremonial  worship.  Tibetians 
assemble  in  chapels,  and  unite  together  in  prodigious  numbers  to 
perform  their  religious  service,  which  they  chant  in  alternate  re^ 
citative  and  chorus,  accompanied  by  an  extensive  band  of  loud  and 
powerful  instruments  ;  so  that  these  congregations  forcibly  recal 
to  the  recollection  both  the  solemnity  and  sound  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  mass. 

There  are  also  numerous  monasteries,  containing  crowds  of 
.monks,  with  a  few  nuns. 

Government.  The  ruling  government  is  the  spiritual,  though 
the  lama  was  accustomed  to  appoint  a  secular  regent,  a  right 
•which  has  probably  passed  to  the  Chinese  emperor.  The  laws, 
like  the  religion,  bear  some  affinity  to  that  of  tlie  Hindoos. 

PQp.ulatio7i.     See  Table. 

Revenues.  The  revenues  of  the  lama,  and  of  the  secular  prin= 
.  ces,  are  trifling  ;  nor  can  Tibet  ever  aspire  to  any  political  im- 
portance. 

Character,  'd'c.  Mr.  Turner  represents  the  character  of  the 
Tibetians  as  gentle  and  amiable.  The  men  are  generally  stout, 
with  something  of  the  Tartaric  features,  and  the  women  of  a  rud- 
dy brown  complexion,  heightened,  like  the.  fruits,  by  the  proximity 
of  the  sun,  while  tnc  mountain  breezes  bestow  health  and  vigor. 

The  Tibeiians  appear  to  have  made  a  considerable  progress  in 
civilization  ;  but  the  sciences  continue  in  a  state  of  imperfection, 
the  year  for  instance  being  lunar,  and  the  month  consisting  of  29 
Allays. 

JMeratiire.     The  literature  is  chiefly  of  the  religious  kind,  the 

*  Turner^  p.  306. 


TRIBUTARY  DOMINIONS  OF  CHINA,  54S'^ 

books  being  sometimes  printed  with  blocks  of  wood,  on  narrov/ 
slips  ot  thin  paper,  fabricated  from  the  fibrous  root  of  a  smal! 
shrub.  In  this  practice  they  resemble  the  Chinese  ;  while  the 
Hindoos  engrave  their  works  with  a  steel  stylus  upon  the  recent 
leaves  of  the  palmyra  tree,  affording  a  fibrous  substance,  which 
seems  indestructii^le  by  vermin.*  The  writing  runs  from  the  left 
to  the  right,  as  in  the  Janguages  of  Europe.  The  monks,  pass 
through'  a  regular  education. 

Citie,-)  and  Towns.  Lassa,  the  capital  of  Tibet,  is  situated  in  s. 
spacious  plain,  being  a  small  city,  the  houses  are  of  stone,  and  are 
spacious  and  lofty. t  The  noted  mountain  of  Putala,  on  which 
stands  the  palace  of  the  Lama,  is  about  seven  miles  to  the  east  of 
the  city.  As  La  means  a  hill  in  the  native  tongue,  this  name  may 
imply  the  hill  of  Pouia  or  Boodh.  To  the  north  of  Lassa  appt  ars 
another  vast  range  of  mountains,  covered  with  snow.  Lassa  is  in 
the  province  of  Ou,  and  almost  the  centre  of  Tibet. |: 

Manufactures.  The  chief  manufactures  of  Tibet  are  shawls,, 
and  some  woollen  cloths  ;  but  there  is  a  general  want  of  industry  -^ 
and  the  fine  undermost  hair  of  the  goats,  from  which  shawls  are 
.■manufactured,  is  chiefly  sent  to  Cashmir.  The  principal  exports. 
are  to  China,  consisting  of  gold  dust,  diamonds,  p'-arls,  lamb  skins» 
some  musk,  and  woollen  cloths.  Many  of  the  Chinese  imports 
are  manufactured  articles.  To  Nepaul,  Tibet  sends  rock  salt,  tin- 
ea), or  crude  borax,  and  gold  dust  ;  receiving  in  return  base  sil- 
ver coin,  copper,  rice,  and  coarse  cotton  cloths.  Through  Nepaul 
is  also  carried  on  the  chief  trade  witli  BtMigai,  in  gold  oust,  lineal, 
and  musk.  The  returns  are  broadcloths,  spices,  tiinkets,  emeralds, 
•sapphires,  lazulitc,  jet,  amber.  Sec. 

Tirade.  The  trade  with  China,  which  is  the  principal,  is  chief- 
ly conducted  at  the  garrison  town  of  Sining,  in  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  province  of  Shensi,  where  tea  is  eagerly  bought  by 
the  Tibetians.  There  is  no  mint  in  Tibet,  as  such  an  instiuuion 
is  prevented  by  religious  prejudices  ;  but  the  base  silver  of  Ne- 
paul is  current  throughout  the  country. 

Cihnate.  The  spring  is  marked,  from  March  to  May,  by  a/ 
variable  atmosphere  ;  heat,  thunder  storms,  and  occasionally  with 
refreshing  showers.  From  June  to  September  is  the  season  of 
humidity,  when  heavy  and  continued  rains  fill  the  livers  to  their 
brim,  which  run  off  from  hence  with  rapidity,  to  assist  in  inundat- 
ing Bengal.  From  October  to  March,  a  clear  and  uniform  sky 
succeeds,  seldom  obscured  either  by  fogs  or  clouds.  For  three 
months  of  this  season  a  degree  of  cold  is  felt,  far  greater  than  is 
known  to  prevail  in  Europe.  Its  extreme  severity  is  more  partic- 
ularly confined  to  the  southern  boundary  of  Tibet,  near  that  eleva- 
ted range  of  mountain,s,  which  divides  it  from  Asam,  Bootan,  and 
Nepaul.§ 

Thus  the  distinguishing  characteristic  of  the  climate  is  that 
extreme  dry  and  parching  cold,  which,  under  the  latitude  of  26,- 
"near  the  torrid  zone,  rivals  that  of  the  Alps,  in  latitude  46. 

f  Tal-nef,  323;     f  Rennell,  306.     \  Bernoulli,  iii.  227.      §  Turner, soa- 


544  TRIBUTARY  DOMINIONS  OF  CHINA. 

Face  of  the  Country.  Tibet  proper  exhibits  only  low  rock/ 
nills,  without  any  visible  vegetation,  or  extensive  arid  plains  of  ari 
aspect  equally  stern  ;  while  the  bleak  and  cold  climate  constrains 
the  ioliabitants  to  seek  refuse  in  sheltered  vales  and  hollows,  or 
amidst  i!ie  warmest  aspects  of  the  rocks 

Soil.  The  nature  of  the  soil  here  prohibits  the  progress  of  ag- 
ricuhure.  The  vales  are  comnionly  laid  under  water  on  the  ap- 
proach of  winter  ;  in  the  spring  they  are  plowed  and  sown,  while 
Ircquent  showers,  and  a  powerful  sun,  contribute  speedily  to  ma- 
ture tlie  crops.*  The  autumn  being  clear  and  tranquil,  the  har- 
vest is  long  left  to  dry  on  the  ground,  and  when  sufficiently  hard- 
ened, is  trod  out  by  cattle.  Wheat,  peas,  and  barley  are  the  prin- 
cipal productions. 

Rivers.  The  chief  river  of  Tibet  is  Berhampooter,  which  rising- 
in  the  mountains  tliat  give  source  to  the  Ganges,  proceeds  in  an 
E.  and  S.  E.  direction  for  about  1000  miles,  to  the  confines  of 
Tibet  and  Asam,  where  it  bends  S.  W.  and  flows  into  the  estuary 
of  t!ie  Ganges,  after  a  farther  course  of  about  400  miles. 

The  Hoan  Ho,  a.-ul  Kian  Ku  of  the  Chinese,  also  rise  in  the  east- 
ern boundaries  of  i'ibet. 

Lakes.  The  lake  Trrkiri  is  about  80  miles  in  length,  and  25 
broad.  A  lake  S.  ol  Lassa,  which  our  maps  call  Jamdro  or  Palte, 
is  represented  as  a  wide  trench,  of  about  two  leagues  broad,  sur- 
rounding an  island  of  about  twelve  leagues  in  diameter;  if  true  it 
is  a  singular  feature  of  nature. 

Mineralogy.  1  ibet  proper  abounds  with  rich  minerals.  Gold 
is  found  in  great  quantities,  sometimes  in  the  form  of  dust,  in  the 
beds  of  rivers,  sometimes  in  large  masses,  and  irregular  veins. 
There  is^  a  lead  mine,  two  days  journey  from  Teshoo  Lumboo. 
Cinnabar,  rich  in  quicksilver,  is  also  found.  Rock  salt  is  another 
product  of  Tibet.  But  in  general  the  metals  cannot  be  worked, 
as  there  is  a  complete  deficiency  of  fuel  ;  and  coal  would  be  far 
more  precious  than  gold. 

The  most  peculiar  pro<;luct  of  Tibet  is  tincal,  or  crude  borax. 
The  lake,  from  wlience  it  is  collected,  is  about  fifteen  days  journey 
from  Teshoo  Lumboo,  and  on  the  northward  of  it.  The  lineal 
is  deposited  or  formed  in  the  bed  of  the  lake  ;  and  those  who  go" 
to  collect  it  dig  it  up  in  large  masses,  which  they  afterwards  break 
into  small  pieces  for  the  convenience  of  carriage,  exposing  it  to 
the  air  to  dry.  Although  tincal  has  been  collected  from  this  lake 
for  a  great  length  of  time,  the  quantity  is  not  perceptibly  diminish- 
ed. The  lake  is  at  least  20  miles  in  circumference  ;  and,  stand- 
ing in  a  very  bleak  situation,  is  frozen  for  a  gi'eat  part  of  the  year.t 


3.  BOOT  AN. 

This  country  may  be  regarded  as  a  southern  proviuce  of  Tibet, 
and  occupies,  according  to  Mr.  Rennell,  at  least  a  degree  of  lati- 

•  Turner,  354.  f  Turner,  406. 


TRIBUTARY  DOMINTONS  OF  CHINA.  545 

luds  betweea  B  ;n:^il  aal  Tibet.  lis  c.ipitul,  Tassaseudon,  is  m 
N.  lat.  27  43.  Tiiis  province  is  bouacled  E.  by  Asam  ;  S.  by 
Bon/ai  ;  W.  hy  Nt;piul.  It  is  a  mountainous  country.  The 
southernmost  rid^^e  of  lis  mou.itains  riies  n^di-  I J  mile  perpendic- 
ular above  tiie  plains  of  li.'Uijxi,  in  a  horizontal  distance  of  15 
niiios  ;  and  from  the  3um;nii,  lUo  plains  below  appear  like  a  vast 
ocean,  to  the  eye  of  the  benokler.  T  iroUj^h  this  ridjje,  there  aro 
but  few  passes,  and  all  foriifi  ;d.  Between  Tasbascudon  and  Pa- 
ridroni^,  in  lat.  23'  is  a  chain  of  still  his/her  mountains,  visible  from 
the  plains  of  Bengal,  at  the  distance  of  150  miles,  covered  with 
snow.  These  are  ilie  Himalaleh  mountains,  which  lie  N.  of  Ne- 
paul,  and  M.  Rennell  supposes  them  to  be,  in  point  of  elevation,  e- 
qual  to  any  mountains  of  the  old  hemisphere.  With  all  its  moun- 
tains, however,  Boocan  is  covered  with  constant  verdure,  and  a= 
bounds  ill  forests  of  lofty  trees.  The  oak  of  Europe  is  wanting. 
The  sides  of  the  mountains  are  cultivated  by  the  hand  of  industry, 
and  crowned  with  orchards,  Helds,  and  villages.  Among  its  few 
wild  animals,  are  monkeys  and  pheasants.  Mr.  Turner  visited 
this  country  in  1783,  and  says  it  contains  no  metal,  except  iron  and 
copper.  Com.pared  with  Tibet  Proper,  its  climate  is  mild,  though 
its  winters  are  severe.  Tiie  inhabitants  resemble  the  ChinesCj 
and  are  a  species  of  the  Tartaric  race. 

The  government  of  Bootan  is  vested   in   a  prince  called   Daeb. 
whose  autiiority  is  neither  stable  nor  extensive. 


4.    THE  RAJAHSHIP  OF  NEPAUL,  OR  NIPAL. 

Boundaries.  NEPAUL  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Himma- 
leh  mountains,  which  separate  it  from  Tibet,  E  by  the  province  of 
Bootan,  S.  by  the  provinces  of  Bahar  and  Oude  in  Hindoostan,  and 
W.  by  Kemaoon. 

Extent.  The  valley  of  Nepaul  is  a  plain  of  an  oval  figure, 
about  200  miles  in  circuit,  lying  between  lat  27°  and  28   6  N. 

Pofiulation.  There  are  several  populous  cities  within  the  valleys 
and  a  great  number  of  villages.  The  whole  population  is  stated) 
vaguely,  at  half  a  million. 

Character.  Two  distinct  races  of  men  with  different  langiiages 
and  religion  inhabit  Nepaul.  The  first  and  most  numerous  race 
consists  chiefly  of  the  two  superior  classes  of  Hindoos,  the  Brah- 
mins and  the  Cshatriyas  ;  the  other  is  distinguished  by  the  name  of 
Newars.  The  former  compose  the  army  and  engross  all  places  of 
power  and  trust.  In  their  character  they  do  not  differ  materially 
from  their  brethren  in  Hindoostan.  The  Newars  are  represented 
as  robust  and  healthy,  though  in  some  of  the  valleys  they  are  sub- 
ject to  swellings  in  the  throat,  similar  to  those  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Switzerland.  Their  character  bears  so  striking  a  resemblance  to 
that  of  the  Chinese,  as  to  leave  little  doubt  of  their  origin. 

Religion.     The  popular  religion  of  Nepaul  does  not  differ  mate- 
rially from  the  Hindooism  established  in  Bengal.     It  prohibits  the 
use  of  all  animal  food,  except  that  of  the  buffalo,  on  which  they 
69 


545  TillBUtARY  DOMINIONS  OF  CHINA. 

are  allowed  to  feed  by  special  indulgence,     Nepaul  abounds  ia'^ 
temples  and  idols.     There  are  almost  as  many  temples  as  houses,  • 
and  as  many  idols  as  inhabitants.     Sixteen  remarkable  festivals  are 
annually  celebrated,  some  of  which  occupy  so  much  time,  that  ■ 
scarce  a  day  passes  without  the  public  performance  of  a  religious^ 
ceremony.     They  have  besides  a  grand  occasional  festival,  which 
lasts  4  months.     It  consists  in  visiting  the  shrines  of  all  the  gods  in 
Nepaul,  which  are  said  to  be  2738, 

History.  In  1792,  the  Rajah  of  Nepaul  acknowledged  himself 
a  tributary  to  the  emperor  of  China,  reserving  to  himself,  however, 
the  right  to  exercise  sovereign  power  within  his  own  dominions. 

Government.  The  government  of  this  province  is  vested  in  a 
Rajah,  or  sovereign,  and  a  body  of  chieftains,  known  by  the  name 
of  Thurgurs.  The  sovereign  is  deemed  to  be  originally  the  abso- 
lute proprietor  of  all  lands  ;  and  in  him,  and  a  council  composed  " 
of  the  principal  ministers  of  government,  is  vested  not  only  the 
power  of  disposing  of  these  lands  at  pleasure,  but  of  punishing  and 
rewarding  public  officers  according  to  their  merits,  and  of  bestow- 
ing government  and  military  commands.  This  council  meet  annu- 
ally, and  exercise  the  despotic  power  "wilh  which  they  are  entrust- 
ed, in  the  most  arbitrary  manner. 

Ancient  Literature.  There  is  probably  no  place  in  India  where- 
a  search  after  ancient  and  valuable  manuscripts  would  be  more 
successful  than  in  Nepaul,  In  this  secluded  valley  the  revolutions' 
and  contentions,  which  have  affected  the  other  parts  of  India,  have 
had  no  influence. 

Cities.  The  three  principal  cities  are  Catmandu,  Lelit  PSttan. 
and  Bhat?:ung.  The  first  containing  180,000,  the  second  240,000, 
and  the  third  r20,000  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  generally  built 
of  brick,  and  3  or  4  stories  high.  The  streets  ai'e  paved  with  brick 
or  stone.  At  Catmandu,  the  residence  of  the  rajah  and  the  courts 
is  the  royal  palace.  The  temples  are  said  to  vie  in  splendor  with 
those  of  the  most  populous  and  flourishing  cities  in  Christendomo 

Climate.  The  climate  may  be  compared  with  that  of  the  soutl* 
of  Europe  ;  sometimes  a:  sprinkling  of  snow,  and  now  and  then  a 
hoar  frost  covets  the  ground.  The  rains  set  in  about  the  middle  of 
April,  and  break  up  in  October,  during  which  time  the  valley  is 
occasionally  inundated. 

Productions.  The  peach,  the  raspberry,  the  walnut,  and  mul» 
berry,  grow  spontaneously.  Their  oranges  are  superior  to  those 
of  Silket,  and  are  probably  not  surpassed  by  any  in  the  world- 
Their  pine  apples  are  excellent.  Rice  is  much  cultivated.  They 
have  turnips,  cabbages,  and  peas,  but  all  of  them  indifferent ;  oth- 
er vegetables  good. 

Rivers.  Several  tributary  branches  of  the  Ganges  take  their 
rise  here,  all  of  which  unite  at  the  S,  E.  part  of  the  valley,  and 
rush  through  a  breach  in  the  mountains  upon  the  plains  of  Hin- 
doos';":!. The  Hindoo  records  represent  the  valley  of  Nepaul  as 
having  been  originally  a  great  lake.  This  account  is  rendered 
highly  probable  by  the  fact,  that  Nepaul  is  every  where  surround- 
ed by  mountains)  excepting  a  narrow  spot  at  the  S.  E.  corner.    I§ 


TRIBUTARY  DOMINIONS  OF  CHINA.  547 

*tiiis  were  once  stopped,  we  can  easily  conceive  that  the  valley  must 
speedily  assume  the  appearance  of  a  magnificent  lake. 

Mountains.  The  valley  of  Nepaul  is  surrounded  by  mountains, 
whose  common  height  is  8000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  On 
the  N.  are  the  mountains  of  Himmaleh,  supposed  to  equal  in  height 
any  of  the  old  hemisphere.  Their  snowy  tops  are  visible  from  the 
plains  of  Bengal,  at  the  distance  of  150  miles.  An  inferior  range 
forms  the  southern  boundary.  In  this  there  are  few  remarkable 
eminences. 

Mineralogy.  Nepaul  was  once  supposed  to  abound  in  rich  gold 
mines.  This,  however,  is  not  the  case.  They  have  mines  of  cop- 
per, from  which  India  was  once  supplied.  Their  iron  is  not  sur- 
passed in  goodness.  They  have  plenty  of  marble,  and  other  stone 
for  building,  also  good  limestone  und  slate. 


5.    KINGDOM  OF  ANNAN. 

THIS  kingdom  lies  between  the  gulfs  of  Siam  and  Tunquin,  on 
the  S.  W.  and  N.  E.  ;  on  the  S.  E.  is  the  China  sea ;  on  the  N.  W. 
and  N.  are  Siam  and  Laos.  According  to  Hassel,  this  kingdom 
covers  165,000  square  miles,  and  has  10,000,000  inhabitants.  It 
includes  the  countries  of  Cambodia,  Ciampa,  and  Cochin  China. 

Though  the  king  of  this  country  is  a  vassal  of  the  Chinese  em- 
peror, he  is  nearly  independent.  Modern  accounts  say,  that  Ton- 
quin  has  become  subject  to  the  king  of  Annan.  His  finances  are 
very  considerable.  He  maintains  1 13,000  land  troops,  30,000  of 
whom  are  disciplined  according  to  European  tactics  ;  and  26,800 
seamen.* 

CAMBODIA 

.  Is  the  northern  province  in  this  kingdom,  and  is  about  400  rfiiles 
long  by  150  broad.  Parts  of  it  border  on  the  gulf  of  Siam  and  the 
Indian  ocean.  Like  Siam  it  is  enclosed  by  mountains  on  the  E. 
and  W.  and  is  fertilized  by  a  large  river,  variously  called  May- 
kaung,  Caniboge,  and  Japanese,  which  begins  to  inundate  the 
country  in  June.  The  air  is  so  hot,  that  the  inhabitants  are  obliged 
to  reside  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  lakes,  where  they  are  tor- 
mented by  musquctoes. 

The  country,  though  fertile,  is  very  thinly  peopled  ;  the  khig  is 
hardly  alile  to  assemble  30,000  men  :  and  its  trade  is  inconsidera- 
ble. The  inhabitants  are  Japanese,  Chinese,  and  Malays,  together 
wi;h  some  Portuguese,  who  live  without  priests,  and  have  inter- 
married with  tlie  natives.  The  men  are  generally  well  made,  of  a 
dark  yellow  complexion,  with  long  black  hair  ;  their  dress  is  a  long 
loose  robe,  the  dress  of  the  women  is  shorter  and  closer.  They 
manufacture  very  fine  cloth,  and  the  needle  work  of  tlic  females  is 
.much  admired.     Their  religion  is  idolatry. 

*  Hassel. 


^^I  TRIBUTARY  DOMINIONS  OF  CHINA. 

CIAMPA.* 

Ciampa,  another  province  of  this  kingdom,  lies  south  of  the  de- 
sert of  Cochin  China,  apd  east  of  CanibocUa,  bordering  south  on 
the  China  or  Indian  sea.  The  inhabitants  are  said  to  be  large, 
muscular,  and  well  made,  have  reddish  complexions,  flat  noses, 
and  black  hair,  their  dress  very  slight.  Feneri  is  their  capital, 
where  their  chief  resides,  who  is  tributary  to  Cochin  China.  The 
country  produces  cotton,  indijjo,  and  silk.  Their  junks,  or  boatSj 
are  well  built,  and  employed  in  fishing. 

SOCKIN    CHINA. 

This  is  the  largest  and  most  important  division  of  the  kingdom 
of  Annan.  It  is  long  avid  narrow,  extending  from  lot.  8  40,  to 
about  20  N.  and  Irom  20  to  60  niihs  broad.  On  the  N  it  is  sepa- 
rated from  Tunquin  by  the  river  Siii.gt  r  ;  on  the  \V.  a  range  of 
snountains  sepaiaies  it  from  the  kin;^dom  of  Laos  and  Cambodia. 
On  the  E.  and  S.  it  borders  on  tbc  China  sea.  It  is  divided  into  12 
provinces,  wluch  succeed  each  other  ftom  N.  to  S.  all  bordering  E. 
on  the  Cl>iria  sea.  The  whole  country  is  intersected  by  rivers, 
■which  facilitate-  inlanci  commerce. 

The  climate  is  heaiti  y,  its  heat  being  tempered  by  sea  breezes. 
The  rainy  seasons  are  S(  pumber,  Oriobec,  and  November,  when 
the  low  co\mtry  is  oveiflowed  by  toi rents  from  the  mountains,  fer- 
tilizing the  soil,  which  yields  three  cr<  ps  of  grain  in  tiie  year.  All 
the  fruits  of  India  are  found  here  in  the  greatest  perfection,  with 
many  of  those  of  China  f 

This  courvtry  has  been  torn  for  years  past  by  divisions.  From 
the  year  1790  to  1800.|  its  rightful  sovereign,  Caun-nhutig.  en- 
joyed only  two  years  peace.  These,  however,  were  tniployed,  un- 
der the  auspices  of  the  excellent  bishop  Adran,  in  making  im- 
provements in  liis  country.  He  established  manufactories  of  salt- 
petre, pitch,  tar,  resin,  and  fire  arms  ;  opened  roads  of  communica- 
tion between  principal  towns,  and  lined  the  roads  with  trees,  for 
shade  and  ornament.  He  encouraged  the  culture  of  the  areca 
nut,  betel  pepper,  silk,  and  sugar  cane;  opesjed  a  mine  of  iron 
ore,  and  erected  iron  works ;  organized  his  military  forces,  and 
established  military  schools  on  the  European  plan  ;  constructed 
300  large  gun-boats,  5  luggers,  and  a  frigate,  on  the  French  plan, 
and  taught  his  naval  officers  the  use  of  signals.  In  1800,  an  En- 
glish geniltman  saw  a  fleet  of  1200  sail,  under  the  comiJiand  of  the 
prince  of  this  country,  in  fine  order,  and  under  excellent  discipline. 

In  shoit,  this  excellent  piiiice,  by  his  own  indefatigable  applica- 
tion to  the  arts  and  manufactures,  roused,  by  his  example,  the 
cnergi<s  of  his  people,  and  has  efi'ected  an  almost  unexampled 
veformation  in  liis  country.     In  ten  years,  from  a  single  vessel,  h? 

*  Ciampa,  Siampa,  or  Tsiampa,  as  it  is  variously  called. 
\  Asiatic  Register,  iii.  84. 
i  Barrow. 


TRIBUTARY  DOMINIONS  OF  CHINA.  54^ 

giccumulated  a  fleet  of  12<JV  ships,  3  of  which  were  on  European 
consiructioi).  Tnib  prince  piolessit  s  a  veneration  for  UiC  doctrines 
of  Christianity,  and  loieraicb  all  rt  ligions  in  l:is  doininions. 

The  militaty  strenglh  oi  this  exen;ph\iy,  intelligciit,  and  enter- 
prising piince,  in  1  St'O,  according  to  Bauow.  consisttd  of  1  13,000 
land  foicts,  and  26  80O  ma.incrs  ;  in  tne  whole  139,800  men,  who 
aie  active,  vi;;-i)i<.vi».,  and  well  di*ciplined. 

The  inhaluiants  ol  this  couniry  excfl  iu  naval  arcln'ecture,  and 
have  abundance  of  the  best  ship  tinihc'r.  Their  country  is  well 
situated  for  commerce.  The  best  harbor  is  that  of  Turon,  which 
affords  a  s:iie  retreat  for  ^.iups  ot  iu  y  burden.  The  principal  ex- 
ports from  this  coui.'iy  are  siiks,  sugar  of  the  best  kind,  ebony, 
Calaniboe  wood,  edibic  l.iid's  nests,  which  are  lound  in  plenty  on 
the  islands  on  this  coast,  gold  in  dust,  or  bars,  copper,  and  porce- 
lain, which  is  brought  iv.nn  Ciiina  and  Japan,  li^.e  articles  re- 
ceived in  return,  are  saltpetre,  sulphur,  lead,  fine  cloths,  and 
chintzes.  Pearls,  amber,  and  cotal,  were  formerly  in  demand. 
The  traders  of  Cochin  China  value  themselves  on  being  able  to 
cheat  an  European. 

The  written  language  of  Cochin  China  is  correctly  that  of  Chi- 
na ;  but  the  language  spoken  is  a  corruption  of  the  Chinese. 

Their  religion  is  a  modihcation  of  the  doctrine  of  Budha,  but 
more  simple,  and  less  involved  in  mystery. 

The  Paracles  form  a  long  chain  of  small  islands  with  rocks  and 
shoals,  parallel  to  the  coast  of  Cochin  China. 

6.  KINGDOM  OF  TUNQUIN. 

THIS  country  is  divided  from  the  former  by  a  small  river,  and 
may  at  present  be  considered  as  incorporated  with  it  by  conqucfit. 
It  contains  154,000  square  miles,  and  8.000,000  inhabitants.*  Tlie 
inhabitants  resemble  their  neighbors,  the  Chinese,  but  their  man- 
ners are  not  so  civilized.  The  products  are  numerous,  and  seem 
to  blend  those  of  China  with  those  of  Hindoostan.  Wiiile  the  rivt 
crs  in  Cochin  China  are  of  a  short  course,  those  of  Tunquin  spring 
from  the  mountains  of  Yunnan  ;  and  in  the  1  ainy  season,  from  May 
to  September,  inundate  the  adjacent  country.  The  chief  is  the 
Holi  Kian,  which,  after  receiving  the  Lisicn,  passes  by  Kesho,  the 
capital.  This  city  is  described  by  Dampier,  as  approaching  the 
Chinese  form,  with  a  considerable  population.  There  is  no  recent 
description  of  this  country. 

7.  THE  LEOO  KEOO  ISLES, 
BETWEEN   Formosa  and  Japan,   constitute   u  little  civilized 

kingdom,  governed  by  an  hereditary  king,  tributary  to  China. 
These  isles  are  said  to  be  36  in  number,  but  very  inconsidoablcj 
exceptthe chief,  which  is  properly  and  peculiarly  called  Leoo-kcoo  ; 
by  the  Chinese  accounts  tlie  length  of  it  is  about  125  miles.  The 
people  are  mild,  affable,  gay,  and  temperate  ;  and  the  chief  pro- 
ducts are  sulphur,  copper,  tin,  with  shells,  and  mother  of  pearl. 

•  Ha!se!. 


5S«     ~  JAPAN. 

JAPAN.  ■  **•  ■ 

THIS  empire  extends  from  the  30th  to  the  41st  degree  of  '■N. 
Ititiiude  ;  and  from  the  131st  to  the  142ri  degree  of  E.  longitude 
from  Greenwich.  Besides  many,  smaller  isles,  it  presents  two 
considerable  ones  in  the  S.  W. ;  that  of  Kiufiu  (also  termed  Sai- 
liokf,  or  the  western  country,)  and  that  of  Sikokf.  But  by  far  the 
most  important  island  is  that  of  Nipon,  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  two  for- 
mer. The  grand  isle  of  Nipon  is  in  length  from  S.  to  N.  E.  not 
Hess  than  750  miles  ;  the  medial  breadth  is  about  80,  The  Japan- 
ese empire,  according  to  Hassel,  contains  189,000  square  miles. 
These  islands  are  divided  into  provinces  and  districts,  as  usual  in 
the  most  civilized  countries. 

Jesso  island,  or  Chica,  having  received  some  Japanese  coloniesj 
is  generally  regarded  as  subject  to  Japan  ;  but  being  inhabited  by 
a  savage- people,  is  rather  considered  as  a  foreign  conquest,  than  as 
a  part  of  tliis  civilized  empire. 

The  Japanese  seem  to  be  a  kindred  race  with  the  Chinese, 
though,  according  toKeempfer,  the  languages  be  radically  distinct. 

Before  the  account  published  by  Ksempfer,  Japan  had  been  im- 
perfectly  explored  by  the  Portuguese  ;  and  since  1730,  the  date  of 
Ksempfer's  publication,  many  important  improvements  have  been 
made. 

The  history  of  their  own  country  is  universally  studied  by  the 
Japanese  ;  and  Ksempfer  has  produced  an  elaborate  abstract,  di- 
vided into  the  three  epochs,  the  fabulous,  the  doubtful,  and  the 
.  certain. 

The  first  is  wholly  fictitious.  The  second,  or  uncertain  epoch? 
is  by  Ksempfer  interwoven  with  the  Chinese  history. 

The  third,  or  certain  period,  begins  with  the  hereditary  succes- 
sion of  the  ecclesiastical  emperors,  from  the  year  660  before  the 
•Christian  era,  to  the  year  of  Christ  1585,  during  which  107  princes 
of  the  same  lineage,  called  Dairis,  or  spiritual  emperors,  governed 
Japan.  In  1585,  the  generals  of  the  crown,  or  secular  emperors, 
".vho  were  also  hereditary,  assumed  the  supreme  power  ;  the  Dairis 
being  afterwards  confined,  and  strictly  guarded,  that  they  might 
not  rcassurne  their  ancient  authority. 

Religion.  The  established  religion  of  Japan  is  a  polytheism, 
joined  with  the  acknowledgment  of  a  Supreme  Creator.  There 
are  two  principal  sects,  that  of  Sinlo  and  that  of  Budsdo.  The  first 
acknowledge  a  supreme  being,  far  mperior  to  the  little  claims  and 
worship  of  men,  whence  they  adore  the  inferior  deities  as  media- 
tors, the  idea  of  a  mediator  being  indispensible  in  almost  every 
form  of  religion.  They  abstain  from  animal  food,  detest  blood- 
shed, ar;d  will  not  touch  any  dead  body.* 

.."J'he  ^ect  ol  Ludsdo  was  imported  from  Hindostan,  being  the 
same  with  that  of  Budha,  or  Boodh,  reported  to  have  been  in  Cey- 
Icn  about  1000  yeais  before  the  birth  of  Christ.     Passing  through 

*  Thunbergi  iv.  1  P. 


JAPAN.  3SV 

China  and  Corea  it  has  been  mingled  with  foreign  maxims,  but 
the  tenet  of  the  metempsychosis  remains  :  wicked  souls  being  sup- 
posed to  migrate  into  the  bodies  of  animals,  till  they  have  under- 
gone a  due  purgation. 

Soon  after  the  discovery  of  this  country  by  the  Portuguese,  nnis- 
sionaries  of  the  Jesuits  arrived,  in  1549  ;  and  their  successors  con- 
tinued to  diffuse  their  doctrine  till  1638,  when  37,009  Christians 
were  massacred.  Several  persecutions  had  formerly  taken  place, 
and,  in  1690,*  upwards  of  20,000  are  said  to  have  perished. 

Government.  The  Kubo,  or  secular  emperor,  is  now  sole  mon- 
arch of  the  country  ;  but  till  near  the  end  of  the  17th  centuiy,  the 
Dairis,  pontiffs,  or  spiritual  monarchs,  held  the  supreme  authority, 
being  appointed  by  the  high  ecclesiastical  court,  according  to 
their  laws  of  succession.  Yet  occasionally  the  appolnimcnt  has 
been  controverted  ;  and  Japan  has  been  ravaged  by  many  civil 
wars. 

The  government  of  each  province  is  entrusted  to  a  resident 
prince,  who  is  strictly  responsible  for  his  administration,  his  family 
remaining  at  the  emperor's  court,  as  hostages.  The  princes  of 
the  first  dignity  are  styled  Daimio,  those  of  inferior  rank  Siomio. 
They  are  generally  hereditary,  but  the  Siomios  are  not  only  obliged 
to  leave  their  families  at  Jedo,  the  capital,  but  to  reside  there  them- 
selves-for  six  months  in  the  year.  The  singular  constitution  of 
Japan,  therefore,  consists  of  an  absolute  hereditary  monarchy,  sup- 
ported by  a  number  of  absolute  hereditary  princes;  whose  jeal- 
ousy of  each  other's  power  conspires,  wkh  domestic  pledges,  to 
render  them  subservient  to  one  supreme. 

Pofiuladon.  The  population  of  the  Japanese  empire,  like  that 
of  other  Asiatic  states,  cannot  be  treated  with  much  precision, 
Hassel  estimates  the  number  of  inhabitants  at  15,000,000  ;  and  its 
army  at  100,000.  Many  of  the  villages  are  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
in  length  :'  and  some  so  long  that  it  requires  several  hours  to  wallc 
through  them  :  and  tliese  large  villages  frequently  occur  at  very 
short  distances.  Kaempfer  says  that  the  number  of  people  daily 
travelling  on  the  highways  is  inconceivable,  and  the  tokaido,  the 
chief  of  the  seven  great  roads,  is  sometimes  more  crowded  than 
the  most  frequented  streets  of  European  capitals. f  Varenius,  the 
geographer,  who  justly  esteemed  this  country  so  interesting  as  to 
deserve  a  particular  description,  has,  from  the  best  autliorities, 
estimated  the  standing  army  maintained  by  the  princes  and  gov- 
ernors, at  368,000  infantry,  and  38,000  cavalry  :  while  the  Kubo 
emperor,  maintains  100,000  foot,  and  20,000  horse  :  thus  constitut- 
ing in  all  a  regular  force  of-468,000  infantry,  and  58,000  cavalry  4 
It  is  probable  that  this  army  does  not  bear  a  greater  proportion  to 
the  population,  than  that  of  an  European  state  in  time  of  peace  ; 
and  as  the  army  doubles  that  of  France  under  the  monarchy,  so 
the  population  may  also  be  double.     Perhaps  a  more  safe  estimate' 

•  Pinkertoa  says  1590,  which  is  probably  a  ir.Utake, 
f  Thunberg,  ii.  345,  and  iii.  318. 
I  Deser.  Jap,  cap.  ir. 


?.52  JAJ'AN. 

may  be  fofmed  by  supposing  tlie  population  of  JapSn  to  equal  tliat" 
of  China;  and  the  former  country  being  about  one  tenth  part  the 
size  uf  the  latter,  the  population  will  be  about  30,000,000. 

Revenues.  The  revenues  of  this  empire  are  minutely  Stated 
by  Varenius,  according  to  princes  and  provinces,  the  sum  total 
being  2834  tons  of  gold,  on  the  Flemish  mode  of  computation  ; 
and  taking  the  ton  at  oiily  10,0001.  sterling,  the  amount  would  bo 
28,540,0001.  sterling  besides  the  provinces  and  cities  which  are 
immediately  subject  to  the  emperor.* 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  people  of  this  nation  are  well 
made,  active,  free  and  easy  in  their  motions,  with  stout  limbs,  al- 
though their  strength  is  not  to  be  compi\rcd  to  that  of  the  northern 
iniiabitants  of  Europe.  They  are  of  a  yellowish  color  all  over, 
sometimes  bordering  on  brown,  and  sometimes  on  white. f 

This  highly  civilized  people  must  of  course  display  great  di- 
versity of  character,  but  the  virtues  far  preponderate  over  the 
vices  ;  and  even  their  pride  is  useful,  as  it  prevents  them  from 
stooping  to  the  mean  tricks  of  the  maritime  Chinese.^ 

The  Japanese  festivals,  the  games  and  theatrical  amusements, 
equal  those  of  most  civilized  nations. 

Language.  Thunberg  has  published  a  curious  vocabulary  of 
the  Japanese  language,  which  seems  indeed  to  have  little  connec- 
tion with  the  monosyllabic  speech  of  the  Chinese.  There  are 
also  dictionaries  drawn  up  by  the  Jesuits. 

Literature.  In  the  sciences  and  literature  the  Japanese  yield 
to  few  of  the  oriental  nations.  This  sensible  people  study  house 
keeping,  or  domestic  economy,  as  an  indispensible  science  ;  and 
next  to  this  every  Japanese  is  versed  in  the  history  of  his  country.§ 
Astronomy  is  cultivated,  but  has  not  arrived  at  much  perfection. 
They  survey  with  tolerable  accuracy  ;  and  their  maps  are  as  exact 
as  their  imperfect  instruments  will  permit.  The  art  of  printing 
is  ancient,  but  they  use  blocks,  not  moveable  types,  and  only  im- 
press one  side  of  the  paper.  Some  of  their  arts  and  manufactures 
even  surpass  those  of  Europe.  There  ai'e  excellent  workmen  in 
iron  and  copper  ;  and  to  no  eastern  country  do  they  yield  in  manu- 
factures of  silk  and  cotton  ;  while  in  varnishing  wood  they  are 
well  known  to  have  no  equals.  Glass  is  also  common  ;  .  and  they 
even  form  telescopes.  'I'he  porcelain  is  deemed  superior  to  that 
of  China.  Their  swords  display  incomparable  skill  ;  and  many 
varieties  of  paper  are  prepared  from  the  bark  of  a  species  of  mul- 
berry tree. 

Rducation.  There  are  many  schools  in  which  the  children 
are  taught  to  read  and  write  ;  their  education  being  accomplished 
without  the  degradation  of  personal  chastisement,  while  courage  is 
Instilled  by  the  repetition  of  songs  in  prais'e  of  deceased  heroes. 

Cities  and  Towns.  The  capital  city  of  the  Japanese  empire  is 
Jedo,  centrically  situated  on  a  bay  in  the  S.  E.  side  of  the  chief 
island  Nipon.     The  houses  never  exceed  two  stories,  with  numer- 

*  Hassel  states  the  revenue  at  424,500,000  guilders.        f  Thunberg,  iii.  112« 
I  Thunberg.  §  Thunberg,  iv.  54. 


JAPAN.  sip 

<Aus  shops  towards  the  streets.  The  harbor  is  so  shallow  that  an 
European  ship  would  be  oblii^ed  to  anchor  at  the  distance  of  five 
leagues.  The  Japanese  affirm  that  Jcdo  would  occupy  a  person 
twenty-one  hours  to  walk  round  its  circumference,  which  might 
thus  amount  to  about  twenty-one  lea<^ues  t  and  that  it  is  seven 
leagues  in  len:rth  by  five  in  brcadtli.  A  large  river  passes  through 
the  capital,  and  besides  the  wida  ditches  of  the  palace,  supplies 
several  canals.  There  are  no  wails  nor  fortifications,  which  are 
unknown  in  Japanese  ciiies:  but  there  are  many  splendid  houses 
of  the  numerous  princes. 

Miaco,  the  spii-iiual  capital,  and  second  city  of  the  empire,  is 
placed  in  an  inland  situation  about  160  miles  S.  W.  from  Jedo,  on 
a  plain.  Kcempfcr  informs  us  that  upon  an  enumeration  taken  in 
1674,  the  iniiabitants  werj  found  to  amount  to  4u5,643,  of  whom 
were  males  182,070  ;  and  223,572  females,  without  including  the 
numerous  attendants  of  the  Dairi. 

Nagasaki,  being  the  nearest  city  to  the  Dutch  factory  in  the 
isle  of  Dezima,  has  of  course  attracted  the  particular  attention  of 
travellers.  The  harbor  is  tlie  only  one  in  whicb  foreign  ships  are 
permitted  to  anchor,  a  privilege  now  enjoyed  only  by  the  Dutch 
and  Chinese.  The  Portuguese  trade  raised  this  place  from  a 
mere  village,  to  its  present  size  and  consequence. 

The  other  cities  in  the  Japanese  empire  amount  to  about  thirty 
or  forty ;  but,  except  those  on  the  rout  from  Nagasaki  to  the 
capital  few  have  been  explored  by  European  travellers.  Osaccaj 
and  Sakai,  boast  the  name  of  imperial  cities. 

Manufactures  and  Commerce.  The  chief  manufactures  of 
Japan  have  been  already  mentioned  in  the  account  of  arts  and 
sciences.  The  inland  commerce  is  very  considerable,  being  free 
r.nd  exempted  from  impost*  The  harbors  ai'e  crowded  with 
large  and  small  vessels  ;  the  high  roads  with  various  goods  ;  and 
the  shops  well  replenished.  Large  fairs  are  also  held  in  diftorent 
places,  to  which  there  is  a  great  concourse  of  people.  The  trade 
with  China  is  the  most  important,  consisting  of  raw  silks,  sugar, 
turpentine,  drugs,  £cc.  while  the  exports  are  copper  in  bars,  lack- 
ered ware,  &c. 

Climate  and  Season-^.  The  heat  of  summer  in  Japan  is  ex- 
treme, and  would  be  insupportable,  were  it  not  for  the  sea  breezes. 
Equally  severe  is  the  cold  in  winter,  when  the  wind  blows  from  the 
north,  or  north-east. 

Thunder  is  not  unfrequent ;  and  tempests,  hurricanes,  and  earth- 
quakes  are  very  common. 

i-ace  of  the  Country.  Though  there  be  plains  of  considerable 
extent,  as  appears  from  the  description  of  Miaco,  yet  Thunberg  as- 
sures us  that  the  whole  country  consists  of  mountains,  hills,  and 
valleys,  the  coast  being  mostly  rocky  and  precipitous,  and  invested 
with  a  turbulent  sea. 

Rice  is  the  chief  grain  ;  buck  wheat,  rye,  barley,  and  wheat,  be- 
ing little  used.   The  sweet  pot  itoe  is  abundant ;  with  several  sort* 

•  Thanberg,  iv,  105. 
70 


554  JSIRMAN  EMPIRE. 

of  beans  and  pease,  turnips,  cabbage,  Sec.     The  rice  is  sown  !» 
April,  and  gathered  in  November  :  in  which  last  month  thu  wheat 
is  sown,  and  reaped  in  June.     The  barley  also  stands  the  whiter. 
From  the  seed  of  a  kind  of  cabbage,  lamp  oil  is  expressed,  and  sev-- 
eral  plants  are  cultivated  for  dying  ;   there  are  also  cotton  shrubsj  ■ 
and  mulberry   trees,  which   last  feed  abundance  of  silk  worms. 
The  varnish  and  camphor  trees,  the  vine,  the  cedar,  the  tea  tree, 
and  the  bamboo  reed,  not  only  grov/  wild,  but  are  planted  for  nu- 
merous uses. 

Rivers.     The  rivers  of  Nipon  have  not  been  delineated  with 
much  care.  Among  the  few  named  are  the  Mogasa,  the  Jedogawa, 
•which  passes  by  Osaka,  the  Qjmgawa,  the  Fusigawa,  and  the  Sak°- 
gawa.     The  largest  river  seems  to  be  the  Jodo,  or  Yodo,  which 
Sows  S.  W.  from  the  central  Idke  of  Oitz. 

Mountaina.     The  principal  Japanese  rnountain  is  that  of  Fusi^- 
covered  with  snow  almost  throughout  the  year.      The  Faconie 
mountains  are  in  the  same  quacter,  surrounding  a  small  lake  of  the 
same  naip.e.'* 

Mineralogy.  The  finest  gold,  together  with  the  richest  gold' 
mines,  are  found  on  the  largest  of  the  Nipon  islands  near  Sado.  It' 
is  used  for  the  mint,  gilding,  and  embroidery  ;  but  is  not  carried 
out  of  the  country. 

Silver  is'said  to  be  found  in  the  province  of  Bingo  ;  and  in  the 
more  northerly  parts  towards  Kattami,  very  rich  silver  mines  are 
to  be  met  with.  Independently  of  these  places,  the  two  islands,^ 
■which  are  called  the  gold  and  silver  isles,  (Ginsima,  Kinsima,)  arc- 
said  to  contain  a  great  quantity  of  both  of  these  precious  metals. 
Silver  is  used  for  coining  and  for  plating. 

Copper  is  quite  common  in  every  part  of  the  empire,  and  is  rich- 
ly impregnated  with  gold,  constituting  the  main  source  of  the 
wealth  of  many  provinces. 

Iron  seems  to  be  scarcer  than  any  other  metal  in  this  country.- 
This  they  are  r-ekher  fond  of  importing,  nor  yet  of  exporting  it  for 
sale.  Gf  it  they  maivutacture  scymitars,  arms,  scissars,  knives,  and^ 
various  other  implementB,  of  which  they  stand  in  need. 

Brimstone  is  found  in  great  abundance  in  Japan*^  Pit  coal  is. 
likewise  to  be  met  with  in  the  northern  provinces.f 


THE  BIRMAN  EMPIRE,! 

COMPRISING  THE  KINGDOMS  OF  AVA,  PEGU,  AND 
ARRACAN. 

JVame.  THE  Birman  empire  derives  its  name  from  the  Bir- 
mans,  who  1-^  vc  been  long  known  as  a  warlike  nation  in  the  region 
formerly  styleu  India  beyond  the  Ganges  j  the  capital  city  of  theij" 

*  Thunberg,  iii.  164.  t  Thunberg,  iv.  102. 

I  The  account  of  this  empire,  with  few  additions,  is  from  Pinkertoa. 


BIRMAN  EMPIRE.  S5£ 

'kingdom  being  Ava,  or  Awa.  Pegu  is  by  the  natives  styled  Ba^ 
goo  ;*  being  the  country  situated  to  the  south  of  the  former,  and 
justly  inferred  to  have  been  the  Golden  Chersonese  of  the  ancients. 

Exttnt  and  Boundaries.  It  is  diflficult  to  ascertain  with  precis- 
ion tlie  boundaries  of  the  Birman  empire.  Mr.  Symes  informs  us 
that  "  it  appears  to  include  the  space  between  the  9lh  and  26th  de- 
grees of  north  latitude,  and  between  the  92d  and  107th  degrees  oi 
longitude  east  of  Gieenwich;  about  1050  geographical  miles  in 
length  and  60(;  in  breadth  :  these  are  ;he  ascertainable  limits,  tak- 
en trom  the  Birman  accounts.  It  should  however  be  remarked 
that  the  breadth  often  varies,  and  is  in  many  places  very  inconsid- 
erable on  what  is  called  the  Eastern  Peninsula."  According  to 
Hassel,  this  en)pire,  embracing  Ava,  Pegu,  and  Arracan,  contains 
223,750  square  miles. 

To  the  north  the  Eirman  empire  is  divided  by  mountains  from 
Asam,  a  country  little  visited  or  known  ;  and  farther  to  the  east  it 
borders  on  Tibet  and  China.  On  the  west  a  range  of  mountains 
and  the  little  river  Naaf  divide  the  Bitman  possessions  from  the 
British  dominions  in  Bengal ;  and  the  limit  is  continued  by  the  sea. 
But  the  southern  and  eastern  boundaries  still  remain  obscure. 

History.  From  the  Portuguese  accounts  it  appears  that  the 
Birmans,  a  brave  and  warlike  race,  formerly  subject  to  the  king  of 
Pegu,  became  afterwards  masters  of  Ava,  and  caused  a  revolution 
in  the  former  country  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
when  they  took  Martaban.  The  Portuguese  continued  to  influence 
these  countries,  till  they  were  expelled  by  the  Dutch,  who  obtain- 
ed settlements  in  various  parts  of  the  Birman  territory  ;  while  the 
English  had  factories  at  Sirian,  and  ex^en  at  Ava. 

The  Birmans  continued  to  exercise  their  supremacy  over  Pegu 
till  about  the  year  1740,  when  a  civil  war  arose,  during  which  the 
British  factory  at  Sirian  was  destroyed  in  1744.  By  some  European 
aids  tl>e  Peguese,  in  1750  and  1751,  gained  several  victories  over 
the  Birmans  ;  and  in  1752  Ava  was  besieged  and  taken  ;  the  last 
of  a  long  line  of  Birman  kings  being  rediiced  to  captivity  ;  but  two 
of  his  sons  escaped  to  Siam. 

When  Binga  Delia,  king  of  Pegu,  had  completed  the  conquest 
ofAva,  he  returned  to  his  own  country,  leaving  hio  brother  Appo- 
raza  to  govern  the  late  capital  of  the  Birman  king.  All  wore  the 
aspect  of  tranquil  submission,  when  there  suddenly  arose  one  of 
those  men,  who  are  destined,  by  means  almost  invisible,  to  break 
the  strongest  rod  of  power,  and  to  change  the  fate  of  empires. 
Alompra,  a  Birman  of  lov/  extraction,  was  the  chief  of  a  small  vil- 
lage, and  was  continued  in  this  petty  office  by  the  victors.  With 
one  hundred  devoted  followers  he  attacked  a  band  of  fifty  Peguese, 
whom  he  put  to  the  sword  ;  and  afterwards  defeated  a  small  force 
sent  against  him  ;  and  about  the  autumn  of  1753,  took  possession 
of  Ava,  wliile  the  Peguese  government  seems  to  have  been  lost  by 
mere  infatuation.  After  repeated  defeats  Binga  Delia  himself  ad- 
vanced against  Alompra,  and  the  war  was  conducted  by  fleets  on 

'  •Symes's  account  of  the  embassy  to  Ava,  i.  6, 8vo.  edit. 


4S«  BIRMAH  EMPIRE. 

the  great  river  In-awady,  as  well  as  by  land,  that  of  the  Pegucii* 
being  utterly  defeated  in  close  combat  by  that  of  the  "Birman». 
Alompra  proceeding  in  his  conquests  founded  the  town  now  well 
known  by  the  name  of  Rangoon,  wliich  sigr.ifies  "victory  achiev- 
ed ;"  and  soon  after  chastised  tlie  people  of  Cassay,  who  had  re» 
volted  from  the  Birman  authority.  In  1756  he  blockaded  Sirian, 
which  yielded  to  his  aims  ;  and  after  having  deprived  tiie  capital 
of  any  foreign  aid  by  water,  he  advanced  agair:st  the  city  of  Pegu, 
situated  on  an  extensive  plain,  and  tiien  surrounded  with  no  mean 
fortifications,  while  tlie  stupendous  pagoda  of  Shoniadoo  served  as 
a  citadel.  This  capital  was  invested  in  January,  1757,  and  in  about 
3  months  became  a  prey  to  the  Birnians.  Aiompra  then  proceeded 
to  subdue  the  countiies  to  the  eastward,  as  far  as  the  three  pago- 
das, the  ancient  boundary  betwem  Pegu  and  Siam.  Tavoy  has 
been  since  added  to  the  Birman  possessions  in  this  quarter. 

Aloropra  next  determined  to  ch.astise  the  Siamese,  for  the  cti- 
CQuragemcnt  they  had  given  to  his  rebellious  subjects,  and  ordered 
a  fleet  to  sail  to  Merghi,  a  sea-port  belonging  to  the  Siamese, 
which  was  easily  taken,  and  was  followed  by  the  conquest  of  Tan- 
aserim,  a  largfi  and  populous  city 

The  victor  next  advanced  against  the, capital  of  Siam  ;  but  two 
days  after  the  siege  had  commenced,  Aiompra  was  seized  with  a 
deadly  disease,  which  saved  the  Siamese  from  destruction.  He 
died  within  two  days  march  of  Martaban,  about  the  15th  of  May, 
1760,  regretted  by  his  people,  who  at  once  venerated  him  as  their 
deliverer,  and  as  a  great  and  victorious  monarch.  This  founder  of 
the  Birman  empire  had  not  completed  his  fiftieth  year  ;  his  person 
strong  and  well  proportioned,  exceeded  the  middle  size  ;  and 
though  his  features  were  coarse,  his  complexion  dark,  and  his 
countenance  saturnine,  there  was  a  dignity  in  his  deportment  that 
became  his  high  station. 

He  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Namdogee,  who  suppressed  sev- 
eral insurrections,  and  died  in  1764.  Shembuan,  second  .son  of  the 
great  Aiompra,  tlien  assumed  the  regency  and  afterwards  the  dia- 
dem. 

The  Chinese,  apprehensive  of  the  progress  of  these  conquests, 
advanced  an  army  from  the  pi  ovir.ce  ot.  Yunan,  but  were  com.plete- 
ly  defeated  by  the  Bivmans.  Poliey  spaied  the  captives,  who  were 
invited  to  many  Birman  wives,  the  Hindoo  prejudices  being  here 
unknown.  Sliembuan  rebuilt  Ava  Haung,  or  anci(  nt  Ava,  the  me- 
tropolis cf  tiie  empire,  which  had  fallen  to  ruin  during  the  late 
commotioiiS.  The  Siamese,  though  vanquished,  reniained  unsub- 
dued ;  and  there  is  an  inveterate  enmity  betwixt  the  nations,  which 
Xj'iW  prevent  either  servitude  or  alliance.*  A  Siamese  prince  as- 
suineti  the  monarchy,  and,  in  177!,  defeated  the  Biniiaiis.  Shem- 
buan afieiwards  turned  his  arms  to  the  west,  and  iorced  the  raja  of 
Cachar  to  pay  hcrnage  to  his  power.  He  died  at  Ava,  in  1776,  and 
was  succeeded  by  his  son  Chenguza,  whose  tyrannical  conduct  oc- 
rasioncd  a  conspiracy,  at  the  head  of  which  was  Shembuan  Miiide- 


BIRMAN  EMPIRE.  55^ 

ragce,  the  present  mona^n-h,  younger  brother  of  the  deceased 
Shembuan.     Chent^iiza  was  slain  in    1782. 

The  southern  coiiqutsls  of  the  Birmans  had  ah'eady  extended  as 
far  as  Merghi,  and  the  northern  piovhiees  formerly  bi  lunging  to 
Siam,  had  been  reduced  to  subjection  and  tiibuie.  Mindcrai^ee 
determined  to  pass  the  mountains  of  Anoupec,  and  suodue  Arra- 
can,  the  raja  or  prince  bcini^  ot  a  supine  character,  and  his  sub- 
jects unvvarlike,  ihoujjh  ihcy  had  ncvtr  been  reciuced  to  pay  hom- 
age to  any  foreign  power.  This  conquest  was  commenced  in  1783, 
and  was  speedily  effected. 

After  tliis  conquest  the  Birman  arms  were  again  turned  against 
Siam,  and  in  1785  a  Iket  was  sent  to  subdue  the  ihic  of  Junkseylon, 
■which  carries  on  a  consideralije  trade  in  ivory  and  tin,  and  is  ihe 
only  remaining  mart  of  Siamese  trade  on  this  coast.  Meeting  with 
a  repulse,  the  Birman  monarch  left  his  ciipital  at  the  head  ot  30,000 
men,  with  a  train  of  2o  field  pieces  ;  but  was  defeated  by  the  king 
of  Siam,  who  in  his  turn  failed  in  an  invasion  of  the  viceroyalty  of 
Maitaban,  which  comjirehcnds  Tavoy,  Merghi,  and  ail  the  Birman 
possessions  to  the  south.  In  1793  a  treaty  was  ratified  between 
the  Birmans  and  Siamese,  by  which  the  latier  ceiled  the  western 
mariume  towns  as  fdr  S.  as  Merghi  inclusive.  But  with  this  ex- 
ception, and  that  of  some  northern  provinces,  the  Siamese  monar- 
chy retains  a  considerable  portion  of  its  ancient  fame.  Hence  it 
appears  that  the  Birman  empire  can  scarcely  be  computed  to  ex- 
tend beyond  the  I02d  degree  of  longitude,  and  that  only  in  the  part 
to  the  north  of  Siam. 

Religion.  The  Birmans  follow  the  worship  of  Hindostan,  not  as 
votaries  ol'  Brahma,  but  as  disciples  of  Buodh,  which  latter  is  ad- 
mitted by  HindoiiS  of  all  descriptions  to  be  the  ninth  Avater,  or 
descent  of  the  deity  in  his  capacity  of  preserver.*  The  Birman.s 
believe  in  the  transmigration  of  souls  ;  after  which  the  radically 
bad  will  be  condemned  to  lasting  punishment,  while  the  good  shall 
enjoy  eternal  happiness  in  llie  mmint  Meru.  They  esteem  mtrcy 
to  be  the  chief  aitiibute  of  the  divinity.  Of  the  religious  buildings 
appropriated  to  the  Birman  worship,  are  temples  near  Rangoon,  at 
Pegu,  and  Syriam. 

Government.  Though  the  form  of  government  be  despotic,  yet 
the  king  consults  a  council  of  ancient  nobles.  There  are  no  he- 
reditary digintics  nor  employments  ;  but  all  honors  and  offices,  on 
the  demise  of  the  possessor,  revert  to  the  crown. 

Pofnilaiion.  The  nuuiber  of  cities,  towns,  and  villages  in  th.is 
empire,'  according  to  Col.  Symes,  is  8000.  He  states  its  popula- 
tion at  17,000,000,  confessedly,  however,  the  result  of  a  very  vague 
estimate.  Of  these  14,000,000  arc  in  Ava  and  Pegu,  and  3,000,000 
in  Arracan.f 

Army  and  Navy.  Every  snan  in  the  empire  is  liable  to  military 
service,  but  the  regular  army  is  very  inconsiderable.  Durino-  war 
the  viceroys  raise  one  recruit  irom  every  two,  three,  or  four  hous- 
es, whicli  otherwise  pay  a  fine  of  about  jC40f  sterling.     The  in- 

*  Syme*,  ii.  SIS,  f  Hassel  \  Symes,  it.  352, 


55S  BIRMAN  EMPIRE. 

fantry  are  not  regularly  clothed,  but  are  armed  with  muskets  aifd 
sabres  ;  while  the  cavalry  carry  spears,  about  seven  or  eight  feet 
in  length.  The  royal  magazines  ai'e  said  to  contain  about  20,000 
indifferent  firelocks.  But  the  war  boats  form  the  chief  military  es- 
tablishment, consisting  of  about  500,  formed  out  of  the  solid  trunk 
of  the  teak  tree,  the  length  being  from  80  to  100  feet,  but  the 
breadth  seldom  exceeding  eight.  They  carry  from  50  to  60  row- 
ers, the  prow  being  solid,  with  a  flat  surface,  on  which  a  piece  of 
ordnance  is  mounted.  Each  rower  is  provided  with  a  sword  and 
lai'.ce,  and  there  are  30  soldiers  armed  with  muskets.  The  attack 
is  impetuous,  and  chiefly  conducted  by  grappling. 

Re-uenues.  The  revenue  arises  from  one  tenth  of  all  produce, 
and  of  foreign  goods  imported  ;  but  the  amount  is  uncertain.  Yet 
as  grants  are  commonly  made  in  land  or  offices,  and  no  money 
leaves  the  royal  treasury  except  in  cases  of  great  emergency,  it  is 
supposed  that  tl  e  monarch  possesses  immense  treasures. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  -Birmans  are  a  lively,  inquisitive 
race,  active,  irascible,  and  impatient  ;  the  unworthy  passion  of 
jealousy,  which  prompts  most  nations  of  the  east  to  immure  their 
•women  vithin  the  walls  of  an  haram,  and  surround  them  with 
guards,  seems  scarcely  to  have  any  influence  over  the  minds  of 
this  extraordinary  and  more  liberal  people.  Birman  wives  and 
daughters  are  not  concealed  from  the  sight  of  men,  and  are  suf- 
fered to  have  as  free  intercourse  with  each  other,  as  the  rules  of 
European  society  advnit ;  but  in  other  respects  women  have  just 
reason  to  complain  of  their  treatment.  They  are  considered  as 
not  belonging  to  the  same  scale  of  the  nation  as  men,  and  even  the 
law  stamps  a  degrading  distinction  between  the  sexes  ;  the  evi- 
dence of  a  woman  being  not  received  as  of  equal  weight  with  that 
of  a  man. 

Language  and  Literature.  The  alphabet  represents  S5  ^mple 
sounds,  and  is  written  from  left  to  right  like  the  European.  The 
Birman  books  are  more  neatly  executed  than  those  of  the  Hindoosy 
and  in  every  kiouL  or  monastery,  there  is  a  library  or  repository  of 
books.  Colonel  Symes  was  surprised  at  the  number  contained  in 
the  royal  library,  in  which  the  large  chests  amounted  to  about  100.* 
The  books  were  regularly  classed,  and  the  contents  of  each  chest 
were  written  in  gold  letters  on  the  lid. 

The  study  of  the  laws  and  national  religion  must  of  course  con- 
stitute a  considerable  branch  of  education  among  the  great  ;  that 
of  the  poor  seems  to  be  utterly  neglected. 

Cities.  Ava,  the  ancient  capital,  has  been  permitted  to  sink 
into  ruin  since  the  recent  foundation  of  Ummei'apoora,  on  the 
eastern  side  of  a  great  river  which  flows  into  the  Irrawady.  The 
extent  and  population  of  this  city  have  not  been  accurately  statedy 
but  are  probably  inconsiderable, 

Pegu,  formerly  the  capital  of  a  kingdom,  is  also  in  ruins,  having 
been  razed  by  Alompra,  in  1757,  the  temples  being  spared;  and 
,of  these  the  vast  pyramid  of  Shomadoo  has  alone  been  reverenced^ 

«  Symes,  iii.  Pr?. 


BIRMAN  EMPIRE.  559 

and  kept  in  repair.  It  is  seated  on  a  double  terrace,  one  side  of 
the  lower  being  1391  feet,  of  the  upper  684.  The  building  is. 
composed  of  brick  and  morlar,  octagonal  at  the  base,  and  spiral 
at  the  top,  without  any  cavity  or  aperture.  At  the  summit  is  a 
Tee,  or  sacred  umbrella,  of  open  iron  work,  gilt,  56  feet  in  circum-" 
ference  ;  the  height  of  the  whole  being  351  feet,  and  above  th-^ 
inner  terrace,  331  feet.  Tradition  bears  that  it  was  founded 
about  500  years  before  Christ. 

One  of  the  chief  ports  of  the  Birman  empire  is  Rangoon,  which, 
tliough  like  the  capital,  of  recent  foundation,  is  supposed  to  con- 
tain 30,000  souls.  Tovyards  the  mouth  of  the  river  Pegu,  stands- 
Si-rian,  formerly  one  of  the  chief  ports  of  that  kingdom,  and  of 
considerable  commerce,  when  in  possession  of  the  Portuguese. 

Martaban  was  another  sea  port  of  considerable  eminence^  till  tho 
harbor  was  impeded  by  order  of  the  Birman  emperor. 

Manufactures.  The  Birmans  excel  in  gilding,  and  several 
other  ornamental  manufactures.  The  edifices  and  barges  are 
constructed  with  singular  oriental  taste  and  elegance  ;  and  at 
Chagain  is  a  manufacture  of  marble  divinities,  the  material  being 
remarkably  fine  and  almost  transparent. 

Commerce.  A  considerable  trade  i&  cai'ried  on  between  the- 
capital  and  Ynnan,  the  nearest  province  of  China,  consisting  chief- 
ly in  cotton,  with  amber,  iv&ry,  precious  stones,  and  betel  nut  i 
the  returns  being  rav;^  and  wrought  silks,  velvets,  gold  leaf,  pre- 
serves, paper,  and  some  utensils  of  hard  ware.  Several  thousand 
boats  are  annually  employed  in  transporting  rice  from  the  lower 
provinces^  to  supply  Ummerapoora,  and  the  northern  districts. 
Salt  and  gnapee,  a  kind  of  fish  sauce,  used  with  rice,  are  also  ar- 
ticles of  internal  commerce.  European  broad  cloth  and  hard 
ward,  coarse  Bengal  muslins,  China  ware,  and  glass,  are  imported - 
by  foreigners.  The  Birmans,  like  the  Chinese,  have  no  coin  ; 
but  silver  in  bullion, and  lead,  are  cunent. 

Cianate  and  Seasons.  The  vigorous  health  of  the  natives  attests 
the  salubrity  of  the  climate,  the  seasons  being  regular,  and  the 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold  little  known. 

i'cce  o/"  the  Country,  Soil,  kifc.  The  face  of  the  country  afford;; 
almost  every  variety,  from  the  swampy  delta  of  the  Irrawady  to 
pleasant  hills  and  dales,  and  considerable  ranges  of  mountains. 
The  soil  of  the  southern  provinces  of  the  Birman  empire  is  re- 
markably fertile,  and  produces  as  luxuriant  crops  of  rice  as  are  to- 
be  found  in  the  finest  parts  of  Bengal.  Farther  northward  the 
country  becomes  irregular  and  mountainous  ;  but  the  plains  and 
valleys,  particularly  near  the  river,  arc  exceedingly  fruitful;  they 
yield  good  wheat,  and  the  various  kinds  of  small  grain,  which 
grow  in  Hindostan  ;  as  likewise  legumes,  and  most  of  the  esculent 
vegetables  of  India.  Sugar  canes,  tobacco  of  a  superior  quality, 
indigo,  cotton,  and  the  different  tropical  fruits  in  perfection,  are  all 
indigenous  products  of  this  favorite  land.*  Agriculture  seems 
to  be  pursued  with  considerable  avidity,  but  the  mode  has  not  been 
particularly  illustrated. 

•  Symes,  ii.  372, 


55©  MALAYA,  OR  MALACCA. 

Rivers.  The  chief  river  of  t!ie  Birman  empire  is  the  Irrawa- 
dy,  which,  probably  passes  by  iMoi^uaug  to  Bamoo,  and  thence  by 
Uinmerapoora,  and  Prome,  towards  the  sea,  which  it  joins  by  ma- 
ny mouths  aiter  a  course  of  near  1200  miles. 

Sitang  is  t!ic  next  on  tiie  east,  after  passing  the  small  river  of 
Pegu,  a  branch  of  the  Inawady. 

Tiie  Thaluan  enters  the  sea  near  Martaban  ;  the  lenj^th  of  its 
course  exceeds  that  of  the  Irvawady,  though  not  equal  in  size. 
The  Siam  or  Mays^ue,  also  pervades  a  part  of  the  Birman  territory. 

MountaviH.  The  highest  rauj^e  of  mountains  is  on  the  frontiers 
of  Tibet.  The  other  ranges  are  delineated  as  passing  N.  and  S. 
A  small  range  running  E.  and  W.  supplies  the  sources  of  the 
I'egu. 

Mineralof^y.  The  mineralogy  of  this  region,  the  golden  Cher- 
sonese of  tlie  ancients,  is  rich,  and  some  products  rather  singular. 
In  many  regions  gold  is  found  iiucrmingled  with  silver  :  and  six 
days  journey  from  Bamoo  (prol^ably  towards  the  north)  there  are 
mines  of  gold  and  silver  at  Badonem,  near  tl.e  frontiers  of  China. 
By  a  singular  conjunction,  there  are  mines  of  gold,  silver,  rubies, 
and  sapphires,  at  present  open  on  a  mountain  called  Wooboloo- 
taun,  near  the  river  Keen  Duem. 

There  is  also  abundance  of  inferior  minerals,  as  tin,  iron,  lead, 
antimony,  arsenic,  and  sulphur  ;  and  amber,  a  rare  and  singular 
production,  is  not  only  dug  up  in  large  quantities  near  the  river  Ir- 
rawady,  but  is  uncommonly  pure  and  pellucid. 

The  most  singular  product  of  Pegu  is  the  ruby,  a  stone  next  to 
the  diamond  in  value,  and  which  is  found  in  a  mountain  between 
Sirian  and  Pegu,  this  substance  being  almost  as  peculiar  as  the;' 
diamond  is  to  Hmdostan-  Rubies  and  sapphires  are  also  found  in 
the  northwestern  part  of  the  empire  ;  but  the  most  valuable  mines 
are  about  50  miles  north  of  the  capital. 


MALAYA,  OR  MALACCA. 

THE  peninsula  appended  to  the  Birman  territories  on  the  south 
is  styled  Maiaya  or  IMahrcca. 

Extent.  l"he  nortlicrn  limits  are  not  strictly  defined  ;  but  Ma- 
lacca is  about  8°^,  or  near  560  miles  in  length,  by  about  150  miles 
of  medial  breadth,  a  territory  sufliciently  ample  for  a  powerful  mon- 
archy, had  its  native  productions  corresjjonded  with  its  extent. 

Language.  The  Malayan  language  has  been  called  the  Italian 
of  the  east,  from  the  melody  of  frequent  vowels  and  liquids. 

The  Arabic  character  is  made  use  of;  and  aV)  influx  of  words  of 
that  language  has  followed  the  adoption  of  the  Mahometan  relig- 
ion. 

Divmona.  Malacca  is  represented  as  divided  into  the  kingdom 
of  Patani  in  the  north,  and  that  of  Yohor  or  Jor  occupying  the 
southern  extremity  of  tiie  peninsula,  the  chief  towns  being  Batusa= 
Ver  the  capital,  Linga,  Bintarn,  and  Carimon. 


Malaya,  or  Malacca.  shi 

tlity.  The  city  of  Malacca  in  the  last  century  was  supposed  to 
•contain  12,000  inhabitants,  of  which  however  only  3000  dwelt  with* 
in  the  walls.  Not  above  300  were  native  Portuguese,  the  others 
beinij  a  mixed  race  of  Mahometan  Malays,  accotuued  among  the 
chief  merchants  ot  the  east.  The  Portuguese  settlement  did  not 
extend  above  5  leagues  around  ;  yet  became  higidy  important 
from  its  advantageous  position  for  Indian  and  Chinese  commerce.* 
In  general  the  Malays  aie  a  wi  11  jnade  peopje,  though  rather 
hclow  the  middle  stature.  Their  complexiqn  is  tawney,  and  their 
hair  is  very  long,  black,  and  shining. 

They  are  restless,  fond  of  navigation,  war,  plunder,  emigrations, 
colonies,  di'sperate  eiitcrpiizcs,  adventines,  aiid  gallantry.  They 
are  universally  considered  by  those  with  whom  they  have  inter- 
course, as  the  most  treacl.erous,  ferocious  people  on  the  globe. 

It  is  nothing  uncommon  for  a  handful  of  these  savages  suddenly 
to  embark,  attack  a  vesaei  by  surprize,  poinard  in  hand,  massacre 
the  people,  and  make  themselves  masters  of  her.  Malay  barksj 
with  25  or  30  men,  have  been  known  to  board  European  ships 
of  30  or  40  guns,  in  order  to  take  possession  of  them,  and  murder 
with  their  poinards  a  great  part  of  the  crew.  The  Malay  history  is 
full  of  such  enterprizts,  which  mark  the  desperate  ferocity  of  tiiese 
barbarians. 

Opposite  to  the  coast  of  Malacca,  tliou^'a  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, are  the  islands  of  Andaman  and  of  Nicobar.  The  great  An= 
daman  is  about  l4o  miles  in  length,  and  20  in  the  greatest  breadth, 
indented  by  tleep  bays,  affording  excclienl  harbors,  and  intersected 
by  vast  iidets  and  creeks,  one  of  wliich,  navigable  for  small  vessels, 
passes  quite  through  tlie  islc.f  The  soil  is  chiefly  black  niouldj 
the  cliffs  of  a  white  arenaceous  stone.  The  extensive  forests  af- 
ford some  precious  trees,  as  ei)ony,  and  the  Nicobar  bread  fruit. 
The  only  quadrupeds  seem  to  be  wild  hogs,  monkeys,  and  rats. 
The  sea  supplies  iiumerous  fish,  and  excellent  oysters.  The  peo- 
ple of  the  Andamans  are  as  little  civiiiz'.c!  as  any  in  tlie  world,  and 
are  probably  cannibals.  They  have  woolly  heads,  and  perfectly  re- 
semble negroes.  Their  character  is  tiuly  brutal,  insiclious,  and  fe- 
rocious, and  their  canoes  of  the  rudest  kind.  On  Barren  isle ,  about 
15  leagues  east  of  the  Andamans,  is  a  violent  volcano,  which  emits 
showers  of  red  hot  stones  ;  and  the  uhole  island  has  a  singular  and 
volcanic  appearance.  A  British  settlement  has  been  recently  form- 
•cd  on  the  Greater  Andaman,  and  some  convicts  sent  thither  from 
Bengal.  The  natives,  about  20('0,  have  already  profited  by  the  ex- 
ample of  English  industry. 

The  Nirobars  are  three  ;  the  largest  being  about  five  leagues  in 
'ircumfcrence^  Tliey  pioduce  cocoa  and  areca  tries,  with  yams 
and  sweet  potatoes  ;  and  the  eatai)le  birci's  nesis,  so  highly  esteem- 
ed in  China,  abound  here  as  well  as  in  tiie  Andanians.  The  people 
are  of  a  copper  color,  with  small  oblique  eyes  and  other  Tartar  fea- 
tures. In  their  dress  a  small  stripe  of  cloth  hangs  down  behind  f, 
and  hence  the  ignorant  tales  of  seamen,  which  led  even  Linnseus  tc^ 

'  Mandelslo,  i.  Col,  337-  f  As.  Res.  'w.  fJ85.  f  A$.  Res,  iii.  14^. 


553  SI  AM. 

infer,  that  some  kind  of  men  had  tails.  The  only  quadrupeds  arc 
swine  and  dogs.  The  traffic  is  in  cocoa  nuts,  of  which  one  hun- 
dred are  triven  for  a  vard  of  blue  cloth. 


SIAMo 

TILL  the  recent  CKtension  of  the  Birman  empire,  the  rich  anri 
ilouiishing  monarchy  of  Siam  was  to  be  regarded  as  the  chief  state 
of  exterior  India,  This  kingdom,  wiili  Malacca,  contains,  accord- 
ing to  Hassel,  about  143,000  square  miles. 

Extent  and  Boundaries.  Tiic  extent  of  the  Siamese  dominions 
has  been  recently  restricted  by  the  encroachments  of  the  Birmans, 
nor  can  some  of  the  limits  he  accurately  defined.  On  the  west,  a 
chain  of  mounta.ins  divides  Siam  from  Pegu.  To  the  south  and  east 
the  ocean,  and  a  chain  of  mcnntains,  divide  Siam  from  Laos  and 
Cambodia.  Thus  the  anc;cnt  idea  may  !>e  retained,  that  this  king- 
dom is  a  large  vale  between  two  ridg'^s  of  mountains. 

The  lengtli  of  the  kingdom  is  near  700  miles  :  but  of  this  about 
one  half  is  not  above  70  miles  in  medial  breadth. 

Historical  Efiochs.  By  Loubere's  account  their  first  king  began 
to  reign  about  75 G  years  after  the  Christian  era.  In  1680,  Phalcon, 
a  Grf'ek  adventurer,  being  highly  favored  by  the  king  of  Siam, 
opened  an  intercourse  with  France,  in  the  view  of  supporting  his 
ambitious  designs;  but  they  were  punished  by  his  decapitation,  in 
1689,  and  the  French  connexion  ceased  in  consequence.  The  lat- 
ter events  of  Siamese  history  may  partly  be  traced  in  that  of  the 
Birman  empire.  In  1775,  Siam  regained  its  freedom,  having  lost: 
much  of  its  former  grandeur.* 

Religion.   The  religion  of  the  Siamese,  like  that  of  the  Eirmans., - 
resembles  that  of  the  Hindoos ;    and   the  transmigration  of  so-uls 
forms  an  essentia!  part  of  ihcir  doctrine  ;  but  they  imitate  the  Chi- 
nesp  in  their  festival  of  the  dead,  and  in  some  other  rites  of  thatsin- 
gvdar  nation. 

Govermncnt.  The  government  of  Siam  is  despotic ;  and  tlic 
sovereien,  as  among  the  Birmans,  revered  with  honors  almost  di- 
vine.    The  succession  to  the  crown  is  hereditary  in  the  male  line. 

Laws.     'I'he  laws  are  represented  by  all  writers  on  this  countr}'' 

as  extremely  severe,  death  or  mutilation  being  punishments  even 
of  iinimportnnt  offences. 

Pojuilctiirya.  Concerning  the  population  of  Siam  there  are  no- 
accurai.e- documents.  The  Siamese  dominions  are  thought  by  some 
to  be  peopled  by  about  8,000,000.  Yet  Loubere  assures  us,  that 
from  actual  enumeration,  there  were  only  found  of  men,  women, 
and  childicn,  1,900)000. f  This  last  estimate  corresponds  with  that 
of  Bruns. 

Arvnj.  Loubere  says  that,  in  his  time,  there  was  no  army  ex- 
cept a  few  royal  guards ;  but  Mandclslo  estimated  the  army,  which 

*  Kas?eL  f  Mandelslo,  t.  30. 


3IAM.  o6o 

may  be  occasionally  raised,  at  60,000,  with  not  less  than  3000  or 
4000  elephants. 

jVavi/.  The  navy  is  composed  of  a  number  of  vessels  of  various 
iizes,  some  of  which  arc  richly  decorated.  PIcncc,  as  in  the  Bir- 
iKian  history,  naval  engagements  are  not  uncommon  ;  and  the  large 
rivers  of  exterior  India  arc  often  reddened  wiili  human  gore.  Both 
the  Birnian  and  Siamese  vesiicls  frequently  ditiplay  a  singular,  fan- 
tastic elegance. 

Revenues.  There  is  a  royal  treasury,  as  in  most  other  eastern 
states,  but  voyagers  have  not  attempted  to  define  its  probable 
amount. 

Alamiers  and  Customs.  There  is  a  considerable  similitude  in  tiic 
manners  and  cuitoms  of  all  the  sutes  between  the  vast  countries 
of  China  and  Hindostan  ;  with  shades  of  difference,  as  they  ap- 
proximate to  either  of  these /ori  of  civilization.  Siam,  though  cen- 
trical, has  embraced  a  branch  of  Hindoo  faith,  and  the  manners  arc 
rather  Hindostanic  than  Chinese. 

The  v/omen  are  under  few  restraints,  and  are  married  at  an  ear- 
ly age. 

The  Siamese  funerals  resemble  those  of  the  Chinese  * 

The  common  nourishment  of  the  Siamese  consists  in  rice  and 
nsh,  both  which  t.riicles  are  abundant.  They  also  eat  lizards,  rats, 
and  several  kinds  of  insecfj. 

The  houses  are  small,  and  constructed  of  bamboos,  upon  pillars, 
to  guard  against  inundations. 

In  person  the  Siamese  are  rather  small,  but  well  madcf  "  The 
figure  of  the  countenance,  both  of  men  and  women,  has  less  of  the 
oval  than  of  the  lozenge  form,  being  broad,  and  raised  at  the  top  of 
the  cheeks  :  and  the  forehead  suddenly  contracts,  and  is  almost  as 
pointed  as  the  chin.  Besides,  their  eyes  rising  somewhat  towards 
the  temples,  are  small,  and  dull  :  and  the  ivhUe  is  commonly  com- 
pletely yellow.  Their  cheeks  are  hollow,  because  the  upper  part 
is  too  high;  the  mouth  is  very  large,  with  thick  pale  lips,  and 
teeth  blackened  by  art.  The  complexion  is  coarse,  being  brown, 
mixed  with  red,  to  which  the  climate  greatly  coniribules.":}: 

Hence  it  would  appear  that  the  Siamese  are  much  inferior  iu 
personal  appearance  to  the  Birmans  ;  and  rather  approach  to  ttie 
Tartaric  or  Chinese  features. 

The  dress  is  very  slight,  the  warmtii  of  the  climate  rendering 
clothes  almost  unnecessary. 

L,u)!ifuaife.  There  are  37  letters,  all  consonants  ;  the  vowels 
and  diphtliongs  constituting  a  distinct  alphabet.  Tisc  R  appears, 
which  is  not  known  to  the  Chinese,  and  the  V/.  There  is  a  consid- 
erable chant  in  the  enunciation,  as  in  other  ancient  languages. 
There  are  no  infiexions  of  verbs  or  nouns  ;  and  tiic  idiomii  being 
very  remote  from  those  of  Europe,  any  translation  becomes  very 
difficult.     The  v/oids  seem  mostly  monosyllabic,  like  the  Chinese. 

*  Loubere,  i.  371.  f  Loub.  i.  81. 

t  Ksempfer,  i.  29,  calls  tliem  negroes,  so  dark  did  their  complexion  appear  t'j 
,.lum  ;  and  he  compares  their  persons  to  aT)€s. 


$«?4  SIAM. 

The  Bali  of  the  Siamese  resembles  that  of  the  Birmans,  an«3  ha,? 
33  letters. 

Littratiire.  In  literature  the  Sianiese  are  far  from  being  defi- 
cient, anci  Lovibere  lias  \vv\\  explained  their  niodes  of  education.* 
At  the  age  of  7  or  8  years  the  ciiiiihtn  are  oficn  placed  in  the  con- 
vents of  the  TalapoJns,  where  ihty  are  msuucted  in  reading,  writ- 
ing, and  accompts  ;  for  the  mercantile  proiession  is  very  geneiaL 
They  are  also  taught  precejits  of  morality  :  liiit  it  is  to  be  regretted 
that  B(}odh  is  nut  only  the  god  of  wisdom,  lait  of  cvuiijing,  whicli  is 
esteemed,  if  not  a  pobiiive  viiiue,  yet  a  proof  of  supeiior  abilities. 
Books  of  hisiory  are  not  ilviknoAvn,  and  there  is  an  excellent  code 
of  laws.  Poetry,  tales,  and  mytbologit  fables,  seem  to  constitute 
the  other  departments  of  Siamese  liteiatnre. 

Cities  and  Towns.  The  capital  city  of  tlie  kingdom  has  been 
called  Siam,  by  the  vague  ignorance  of  the  Portuguese  navigators. 
In  the  native  language,  the  name  approaches  to  the  European  enun- 
ciation of  Yuthia.  Ii  is  situated  in  an  isle  formed  by  the  river  Mei- 
nam.  The  walls,  in  Loubere*s  time,  were  CMtensive;  but  not  above 
a  sixth  part  was  inhabited.  Its  condition,  since  it  an  as  delivered 
from  the  Birman  conquest,  in  1766,  has  not  been  described. 

The  other  chief  towns  in  the  Siamese  dominions,  are  Bankok,  a£ 
the  mouth  of  the  Mcinam  ;  with  Ogmo  and  others  on  tiie  eastern 
eoast  of  the  gulf  of  Siam.  In  general  these  towns  were  only  col- 
lections of  hovels,  sometimes  surrounded  with  a  wooden  stocKade, 
and  rarely  with  a  brick  wall. 

Manufactures.  Though  the  Siamese  are  an  indolent,  yet  they 
are  an  ingenious  people,  and  some  of  their  manufactures  deserve 
praise.  They  ate  little  skilled  in  the  fabrication  of  iron  or  steel; 
but  excel  in  that  of  gold,  and  in  n'iniature  painting.  The  common 
people  are  mostly  occupied  in  procuiing  fish  for  their  daily  food, 
■while  the  superior  classes  are  engaged  in  a  trifling  traffic. 

Commerce.  The  conimercial  relations, are  chiefly  with  Hindos- 
tan,  China,  Japan,  and  the  Dutch. 

The  productions  of  the  country  are  grain  in  great  quantities* 
cotton,  btnj.imin  ;  sandal,  agualio,  and  sapan  woods  ;  ar.tin)ony, 
tin,  lead,  ison,  load-stone,  gold,  and  silver  j  sapphires,  emeralds, 
agates,  crystal,  marble,  and  tombac.f 

Cli7nate  and  Seasons  The  tVvO  first  months  of  the  Siamese 
year,  which  correspond  with  our  December  and  Januaiy,  foim 
the  wh.ole  winter  of  th.is  country  :  the  thiid,  fourth,  and  fifth,  be- 
long to  what  is  called  their  little  summer  ;  the  seven  others  to 
their  great  summer 4  Being  on  the  north  ot  the  line,  their  win- 
ter of  course  corresponds  with  ours  ;  but  is  almost  as  warm  as  a 
French  summer.  The  little  sumn.er  is  their  sjning  ;  but  autumn 
is  absolutely  unknown  in  their  calendar.  The  winter  is  dry  ;  the 
summer  moist  ;  the  former  is  distirguished  by  the  course  of  the 
■wind,  wlich  blows  almost  constantly  fi<  m  the  north,  refreshed 
with  cold  Irom  the  snowy  nioi^niains  of  Tibet,  and  the  bleak  wastes 
of  Mongolia. 

*  i,  ISO.  fDalrymple'e  Oriental  Repertory,  p.  IIS.  fLoulere,  i.  f^ 


SIAM.  5'0 

Face  of  {he  Country.  This  country,  as  already  mentioned,  is 
a  wide  vale  between  two  high  ridges  of  mountains,  thus  somewhat 
resemblini^  Eirypt,  on  a  wider  scale.  Compared  with  the  Birman 
empire,  the  cukivated  level  is  not  above  half  the  extent  either  in 
breadth  or  length. 

iioil.  Tlie  soil  towards  the  mountains  is  parched  and  barren, 
but  ihe  shores  of  the  river  consist,  like  that  of  Egypt,  of  a  very 
rich  and  pure  mould,  in  wliich  it  is  even  difficult  to  find  a  pebble. 
It  is  in  fact  a  muddy  deposite,  accumulating  from  early  ages,  and 
manured,  as  it  were,  by  regular  inundations,  so  as  to  produce 
abundance  of  rice. 

Agriculture.  The  chief  product  is  rice  of  excellent  quality  ;  but 
wheat  is  not  unknown,  in  lands  at  a  distance  from  the  inundations. 
Peas,  and  other  vegetables,  also  abound.  Maize  is  confined  to 
their  gardens. 

Rivers.  The  grand  river  Meinam,  a  name  which  signifies  the 
mother  of  water.,  is  the  largest  among  the  Siamese  streams.  It  is 
very  detp  and  rapid,  always  full,  and,  according  to  Kaenipfer,  larg- 
er than  the  Elbe.*  The  inundations  are  in  September,  after  the 
snows  have  melted  in  the  northern  mountains,  and  the  rainy  season 
lias  commenced.  In  December  the  waters  decline,  and  sink  by 
degrees  tn  their  former  level.  The  water  though  muddy,  is  (lleas- 
ant  and  salutary. 

The  banks  ot  the  Meinam  are  generally  low  and  marshy,  but 
thickly  peopled  from  Yuthia  to  Bankok,  below  which  are  wild  des- 
erts. Monkeys,  fire-flies,  and  musketoes,  swarm  on  the  fertile 
shores. 

Mountains.  Extensive  ranges  of  mountains,  enclose  this  king- 
dom on  the  east  and  west.  In  the  north  Siam  terminates  in  plains  j 
nor  docs  it,  even  by  conquest  seem  ever  to  have  reached  the 
mountains  on  the  Chinese  frontier. 

Mineralogy.  There  are  some  mines  of  gold,  and  others  of 
copper,  mixed  with  a  variable  proportion  of  gold  ;  but  the  mines 
chiefly  wrought  by  the  Siamese  arc  of  tin  and  lead.  The  tin, 
called  calim,  by  the  Portugese,  was  sold  throughout  the  Indies 
but  was  soft  and  ill  refined;  all  of  it,  except  that  of  Junkseylon, 
was  a  royal  tJerquisite.f 

Near  Louvo  was  a  mountain  of  load-stone  :  fine  agates  abounded 
in  the  mountains,  nor  were  sapphires  unknown. 

Iblcs.  Among  the  numerous  and  minute  isles,  which  owe  a 
doubtful  subjection  to  Siam,  Junkseylon  alorie  deserves  mention. 
By  Captain  Forrest's  account  who  visited  this  isle  in  1784,  it  annu- 
ally exports  about  500  tons  of  tin,  and  contains  12,000  inhabitants. 

*  Loubere,  i,  67,  Fr.  edit.  ^  Loubere,  i.  287. 


HINHOSTAX. 


LAOS. 

LAOS,  a  country  of  Asia,  bounded  N.  by  the  Chinese  prov- 
ince of  Yun-r.an,  E.  by  Tunquin,  S.  by  Canibodia,  W.  by  Siam  and 
Ava.  It  is  a  flat  country,  surrounded  by  mountains,  covered  with 
forests,  which  serve  as  barriers  against  the  potent  kingdoms  in  its 
Bcigl.borhood,  and  difficult  of  access  by  water.  From  these  moun- 
tains  descend  many  streams,  which  form  the  large  river  Maykaung. 

The  climate  is  temperate  and  healthful ;  the  soil  generally  very 
■v;ood,  rendered  fruitful  by  a  number  of  canals  cm  from  the  great 
viver  Maykaung.  The  principal  drugs  are  benjamin  and  lac.  The 
soil  is  fertile  in  rice.  It  furnishes  Cambodia  with  the  best  ben- 
zoin and  lacca  ;  also  with  musk.  The  forests  are  of  great  extent  j 
on  the  plains  are  many  flowers,  which  yield  abundance  of  honey 
and  wax.  Kere  are  mines  of  iron,  lead,  tin,  gold,  silver,  rubies, 
and  the  fresh  water  mya,  which  yields  pearls.  The  inhabitants 
arc  well-shaped  and  robust  and  of  an  olive  color.  They  are  good. 
:iatured,  affable,  courteous,  upright,  faithful  and  obliging.  When 
Lhcy  see  what  pleases  their  fancy,  they  seldom  cease  importuning 
the  owner  till  they  obtain  it.  In  case  of  a  refusal,  they  never  use 
iorce.  The  country  is  very  populous,  containing  3,000,000,*  and 
che  inhabitants  live  to  a  great  age.  The  Laos  are  not  of  a  warlike 
disposition,  nor  expert  in  the  use  of  fire-arms.  If  enemies  make 
an  inroad  uj)on  them,  they  poison  their  rivers.  It  was  thus  that 
the  king  of  Tunquin  Avas  obliged  to  retreat,  after  having  lost  a 
great  part  of  his  army,  with  which  about  the  year  1650,  he  pro- 
posed to  annex  this  monarchy  to  his  own. 

The  language  of  the  Laos  is  like  that  of  the  Siamese  ;  who, 
they  say,  have  had  the  art  of  writing,  and  their  sacred  language, 
from  them  :  but  they  cannot  pronounce  the  letters  L  and  R.  They 
write  on  the  leaves  of  treps,  like  the  Peguese  and  Malabars  ;  but 
matters  relating  to  civil  affairs,  are  inscribed  on  a  sort  of  coarse 
paper,  with  earthcrn  pins. 

The  religion  of  the  Laos,  resembles  that  which  prevails  in  all 
'.he  countries  comprised  in  the  farther  peninsula  of  the  Indies. 
The  king  of  Laos  is  an  absolute  independent  prince,  and  acknowl- 
edges no  sv.pcrior,  either  in  temporal  or  spiritual  affairs.  The 
properly  cf  lands  lies  wholly  in  him,  who  disposes,  at  pleasure,  of 
the  ciTects  belonging  to  his  subjecty  ;  nor  can  any  family  in  the 
kingdom  ir.herit  or  possess  any  thing  left  them  by  willf 


HINDOSTAN. 

THE  description  of  this  interesting  portion  of  Asia  is  not  a  Hi:- 
lie  diflicuU,  from  its  vast  and  irregular  extent,  from  the  want  of 
[^-i.-and  subdivisions,  from  the  diversity  of  nations  and  powers,  frc- 

*  Kassel.  f  Gaz.  ®f  Eastern  Continect. 


HINDOSTAN.  55/ 

ytient  chanp;cs,  large  foreign  settlements,  and  other  causes.  Majoi? 
RenneH,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  an  excellent  map  and  memoir^ 
Avhich  have  thrown  great  light  on  Indian  geography,  first  considers 
the  sea  coast  and  islands  ;  as,  in  the  construction  of  a  map,  the 
outline  of  the  coast  is  the  earliest  object.  lie  then  describes  Hin- 
dostan  in  four  other  sections  :  1.  That  part  occupied  by  the  Ganges 
njid  its  p'-ii)cipal  branches :  2.  T!iat  occupied  by  the  course  of  the 
Sindc,  Sind-ih,  or  river  Indus  :  3.  The  tract  situated  between  the 
river  Kistna  and  the  two  foriner  divisions  :  4.  The  countries  to 
the  Pouth  of  the  Kistna,  or  what  is  perhaps  improperly  called  the 
southern  pciiiiisuia,  as  no  part  of  Hindnstan  can  be  styled  a  penin- 
sula, in  the  modern  acceptation  of  being  nearly  surrounded  Uy  th'i 
sea. 

1.  The  Gangetic  part  of  Hindostan,  includes  the  space  from  th^ 
confines  of  Tibet  to  the  sources  of  the  Chumbul  and  Sippra,  and 
from  the  mountains  near  Agimere  and  Abugur  hills,  to  tnc  most 
eastern  boundary  of  Hindostan. 

2.  That  portion  watered  by  the  Sinde  or  Indus,  and  its  subsi- 
diary streams,  may  in  like  manner  be  termed  Sindetic  Hindostan  ;. 
and  as  a  supplement  to  this  division  may  be  considered  the  country 
of  Sirhind,  and  other  tracts  to  the  west  of  Gangetic  Hindostan.       x 

3.  The  southern  part  is  encompassed  by  the  sea,  except  on  the 
north,  where  the  river  Kistna  and  its  subsidiary  streams  form  the 
boundary.  In  ancient  times  this  portion  was  styled  Deccan,  a  na- 
tive term  implying  the  south. 

4-.  That  portion  on  the  south  of  the  Kistna,  reaching  to  Gangetic 
Hindostan  on  the  north  and  east,  and  the  Sindetic  with  its  supple- 
mentary provinces  on  the  north  and  west,  may  be  styled  interior  ov 
central  Hindostan. 

In  this  arrangement  the  Gangetic  part  will  include  Bengal, 
Bahar,  Allahabad,  Oude,  Ayra,  and  a  part  of  Delhi  and  Agimere. 
The  Sindetic  contains  Kuttore,  Cashmir,  Cabul,  Candahar,  Lahore^ 
Moultan,  and  Sinde. 

The  central  division  represents  Guzerat  in  the  west,  with  Can- 
deish,  Derar,  Orissa,  the  Sircars,  the  chief  part  of  Golconda,  Vi- 
siapour,  Dowlatabad,  and  Concan. 

The  southern  division  includes  a  small  portion  of  Golconda, 
Mysore,  the  extensive  region  called  in  modern  times  the  Carnatic, 
Avith  Madura,  and  other  smaller  districts,  the  western  coast  being 
called  that  of  Malabar,  and  t!ie  eastern  that  of  Coromandel.  In 
this  part  is  naturally  included  the  island  of  Ceylon. 

Political  Divi.vons.  Hindostan,  is  divided  among  various  pow- 
ers. Of  these  the  English  is  at  present  preponderant,  not  only  froni 
European  tactics,  but  from  an  actual  extent  of  territory  super- 
ior to  that  of  any  native  power.  ^  We  do  not  possess  such  informa- 
tion of  the  late  changes  which  liave  happened  in  this  vast  and  pop- 
ulous country,  as  to  state  with  precision  the  portions  which  belong; 
to  the  respective  powers. 

The  British  possessions  prior  to  the  fall  of  Tippoo,  1799,  were 
supposed  to  contain  197,495  square  British  miles,  being  about 
50,000  morethan  are  comprised  in  the  united  kingdoms  of  Grea: 


€^  HINDOSTAN. 

Britain  and  Ireland  :  the  number  of  inhabitants  was  computed  ate 
ten  millions.  The  acquisition  in  1799  probably  added  15,000 
square  miles,  and  the  population  subject  to  Great  Britain  was  then 
supposed  be  i2  or  14,000,000.  The  net  revenue  exceeded  three 
jTiiliions  before  the  cessions  of  Tippoo  in  1792,  computed  at 
400,0001.  ;  while  those  in  1799  do  not  appear  much  to  exceed  half 
that  sum.  This  j^reat  power  and  revenue  of  so  distant  a  country, 
maintained  in  the  midst  of  a  highly  civiliz;  d  foreign  nation,  is  per- 
haps unexampled  in  ancient  or  modern  times.  Since  this  period 
large  additions  have  been  made  to  the  British  dominions. 

JSfames.  The  ori\;inal  name  of  this  celebrated  cour.try  is  said 
to  be  in  the  ancient  Sanscrit  language  Bharata.*  That  ot  Hindos" 
tan  seems  to  have  been  imposed  by  the  Persians.  It  was  long 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Einfiire  of  the  Great  MonguU  because  it 
was  then  subject  to  Mongul  emperors,  successors  ot"  Timur. 

Extent.  This  portion  of  A^ia  extends  from  cape  Comorin,  in 
the  south,  to  the  mou\uains  which  form  the  northern  boundary  of 
Cashuiir;  that  is,  according  to  the  most  recent  maps,  from  about 
the  8th  to  about  the  33th  degree  of  northern  latitude,  being  27  de- 
grees, or  1620  geographical  miles,  equal  to  1868  British.  The 
northern  boundary  may  be  yet  farther  extended  to  the  Hindoo  Koh, 
and  mountains  running  E.  and  W.  on  the  north  of  the  province  of 
Kuttore. 

From  the  river  Araba,  on  the  west  of  the  province  of  Sinde,  to 
the  mountains  which  divide  Bengal  from  Cassay  and  the  Birman 
dominions,  that  is  from  about  the  66th  to  the  92d  degree  of  east 
longitude  from  Greenwich,  there  are  25°,  which,  in  the  latitude  of 
25°,  constitute  a  breadth  of  1630  miles. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  the  mountains  of  Hindoo  Koh  separate 
it  from  Independent  Tartary,  and  the  Thibetian  Alps  from  Nepaul 
and  Bootan,  tributaries  of  Thibet :  on  the  E.  and  S.  E.  are  the  Bir- 
man empire,  and  the  bay  of  Bengal  :  on  the  S.  W.  the  Arabian 
sea  :  and  on  the  W.  the  river  Araba,  and  farther  N.  an  extensive 
desert,  divide  it  from  Persia. 

Historical  Epochs.  I.  The  invasion  by  Alexander  the  Greats 
who  found  western  India  divided  among  numerous  potentates, 
though  he  advanced  little  farther  than  Lahore.  If  even  the  north- 
ern half  of  Hindostan  had  been  subject  to  one  sovereign,  as  fabled 
in  the  native  tales,  the  circumstance  would  have  been  clear  and 
apparent. 

2.  At  a  long  interval  appears  the  conquest  of  the  north-westeru 
part  by  Mahmoud  of  Ghizni,  A.  D.  1000. 

3.  The  dynasty  ot  the  Putan,  or  Afghan  emperors  begins  with 
Cuttub,  A.  D.  1205,  and  ends  with  Mahmoud  111.  1395.  ^ 

4.  The  great  Moguls  or  Mongul  emperors  begin  with  Babar, 
1525;  and  continued,  with  a  short  hiterruption,  by  the  Patans  to 
Shah  Aulum,  to  1760. 

The  invasion  by  Timur,  and,  at  a  distant  interval,  that  by  Nadir, 
also  form  remarkable  epochs  in  the  history  of  this  passive  country, 

•  Rennell,  xx.  from  Wilkins  :  but  the  proper  native  terra  seems  to  be  Msdhv- 
ama,  and  Bhacat  was  the  first  king.    As.  Res.  k  41&. 


H>ND6STAN.  c6^ 

i'he  latter  may  be  said  to  have  virtually  dissolved  tlie  Mogul  em= 
pire. 

The  Poftuguese  settlements  were  followed  by  those  of  the 
Dutch.  The  French  power  began  to  predoniinaie  in  1749,  but 
speedily  closed  in  1761,  with  the  loss  of  ihcir  piiiicipal  settlement^ 
Pondicherry.  As  inercliants  the  English  had  long  held  small  set- 
tlements in  Hindostan  ;  bul  ihe  expedition  into  Tanjore,  1749,  was 
the  first  enterprise  against  a  native  prince.  Other  contests  follow- 
ed concerning  Arcot,  in  tlie  kingdoni  of  Carnada,  or  what  we  call 
the  Cai'natic.  In  1756,  t!ie  fort  of  Calcutta,  the  chief  seilkment  of 
the  English  in  Bengal,  was  taken  by  the  nabob,  and  many  of  their 
brave  countrymen  perished  in  a  shocking  manner,  from  being  con- 
fined in  a  small  chamber.  Tiie  battle  of  Plassey,  fought  in  June, 
1  757,  laid  the  foundation  of  the  subsequent  power  of  Britain.  Lord 
Clive,  governor  of  Bengal,  1765,  obtained  a  grant  from  the  nominal 
Mogul,  of  Bengal,  Bahar,  and  part  ol  Orissa,  on  condition  of  an  an- 
nual tribute.  Soon  after  the  English  were  engaged  in  a  contest 
with  Ilyder  Alii,  a  soldier  of  fortune,  who  had  dethroned  the  lineal 
sovereign  of  Mysore,  and  extended  his  conquests  to  the  adjacent 
territories.  Some  conflicts  followed  on  the  confines  of  Carnada  and 
Mysore  ;  but  the  event  was  little  advantageous  to  cither  party. 
Hydei',  dying  in  1783,  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Tippoo,  who 
seems  to  have  been  a  prince  of  inferior  abilities,  and  expiated  his 
ill  arranged  plans  by  his  death,  and  the  partition  of  his  territories, 
in  1799.' 

The  Bengal  provinces  have  been  in  possession  of  the  British 
since  1765  ;  and  Benares  was  added  in  1775.  This  portion  might 
constitute  a  considerable  kingdom,  and  is  siifficiently  compact  and 
secure  !)y  natural  advantages,  independontiy  of  a  formidable  force. 
The  sircars,  or  detached  provinces,  partly  belong  to  Golconda,  and 
partly  to  Orissa,  forming  a  long  narrow  slip  of  country  from  20  to 
75  miles  wide,  but  about  350  in  length.  The  word  sircar  is  almost 
synonymous  with  an  English  county,  implying  a  division  of  a  sou- 
faa,  or  great  province  ;  and  these  detached  sircars,  or  counties,  hie- 
ing to  the  north  of  Madras,  on  Avhich  they  are  t!ep«;ndent,  are  com- 
monly styled  liie  northern  sircars.*  la  1754,  they  were  acquired 
by  the  French  ;  and  conquered  by  the  English,  under  Col.  ClivCj 
in  1759. 

The  English  settled  at  Madras  about  tlie  year  1640  ;  and  their 
territory  here  extends  about  108  miles  along  the  shore,  and  47  in 
breadth,  in  the  centre  of  the  ancient  kiagdom  of  Carnada.  The 
recent  and  extensive  acquisitions  in  the  south  have  been  already 
mentioned . 

Nor  among  the  modern  historical  epochs  of  Hindostan  must  the 
celebrated  battle  of  Panniput,  not  far  to  the  N.  W.  of  Delhi,  be 
omitted,  w'nich  was  fought  in  17G1,  between  the  Mahometans,  un^ 
der  Abdalha,  king  of  Candahar,  and  the  Marattas,  in  which  the  lat- 
ter were  defeated:  the  Mahometans  were  computed  at  i50,0CQ- 
and  the  Marattas  at  200,000. 

*  Rennellj  cxtxW. 


-.70  HINDOSTAM; 

Religion.     The  religion  of  the  Hindoos  is  artfully  interw&'v'fiii:* 
•with  the  common  offices  of  life  ;    and  the  different  casts  arc  sup- 
posed to  originate  from  Brahma,  the  immediate  agent  of  creation, 
under  the  supreme  power,  in  the  following  manner  : 

The  Brahmin  from  the  mouth  (wisdom)  :  To  pray,  to  read,  to 
instruct. 

The  Chchieree,  from  the  arms  (strength)  :  To  dra\7  the  bow,  to 
light,  to  govern. 

The  Brice,  from  the  belly  or  thiglis  (nourishment)  :  To  provide 
the  necessaries  of  life  by  agricuhute  and  traffic. 

The  Sooder,  from  the  feet  (subjection)  :  To  labour,  to  serve.* 

Government.  Hindostan  is  now  divided  into  many  governments, 
the  form  of  which  must  be  considered  in  describing  the  several 
states. 

PopMlation.  The  population  of  this  extensive  part  of  Asia,  is- 
supposed  to  amount  to  60,000,000,  of  which  the  Biitish  possessions 
may  now  perhaps  contain  a  quarter,  especially  as  frequent  recent 
conflicts  have  tliinned  the  pypuiaiion  in  many  other  parts  of  Hin- 
dostan. 

Gerieral  Revenues.  The  general  revenues  of  Kindostan  were 
computed  in  the  time  of  Aurunzcb,  by  a  precise  calculation  of  those 
of  the  several  provinces,  at  32,000,000  sterling  ;  equal,  perhaps, 
considering  the  comparative  price  of  products,  to  160,000,000  ster- 
ling in  modern  England.  ■ 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  manners  and  customs  of  the  Hin-- 
doos  are  intimately  blended  with  their  rclicrion,  and  are  universally 
similar,  with  a  few  exceptions  in  mountamous  and  other  peculiar 
districts.  One  of  the  most  singular  is,  that  of  giving  the  living 
widov/  to  the  same  flames  with  her  husband's  corpse.  The  ancients 
represent  the  Bramins  as  accustomed  to  terminate  their  own  lives 
on  funeral  piles  lighted  by  themselves. 

Polygamy  is  practised,  butone  wife  is  acknowledged  as  su- 
preme. It  is  well  known  that  the  Hindoos  are  extremely  abste- 
tnious,  and  wholly  abstain  from  animal  food  and  intoxicating  li- 
quors;  yet  if  we  judge  from  the  fanatic  penances,  suicides,  and 
other  superstitious  frenzies,  no  where  on  earth  is  the  mind  so  much 
disordered.  The  houses  are  built  of  earth  or  bricks,  covered  with 
mortar,  and  sorneiimes  with  excellent  cement,  with  no  windows,  or 
only  small  apertures.  Tivere  is  generally  cnlj"  a  ground  floor,  in- 
closing a  court,  with  a  small  gallery,  supported  by  slight  wooden 
pillars.  The  amusements  consist  of  religious  processions  ;  bu! 
though  dancing  girls  abound,  yet  theatrical  exhibitions  do  not  seem 
so  common,  as  in  the  countries  farther  to  tliC  east. 

Languages.     The  general  ancient  language  of  Hindostan  is  be- 
lieved to  have  been  the  Sanscrit,  an   original   and  refined  speech, - 
compared  by  Sir  William  Jones  with  the   Greek  and  Latin.     The 
more  common  dialects  are  chiefly  the  following. 

1.  That  of  Kandi,  in  the  interior  of  Ceylon,  which  is  said  nearlp 
to  resemble  the  Sanscrit. 

♦  Robertson's  Disquisition,  p.  338; 


IIINDOSTAN.  Bfl 

2.  The  Tamul,  used  in  the  Deccan,  or  southern  part,  in  Ma'- 
i^dura,  Mysore,  and  some  parts  of  the  Malabar  coast. 

S.  The  Malabar  language,  extending  frun)  cape  Comorin  to  the 
'mountain  llli,  which  divides  Malabar  from  Canara. 

4.  That  of  Canara,  whicli  extends  as  far  as  Goa. 

5.  The  Marashda  language.  It  is  prevalent  throughout  the 
•whole  country  of  the  Manas/tdi,  who  are  very  impropely  called 
'Alaratfas, 

6.  The  Talinga,  an  harmonious,  nervous,  masculine,  copious, 
and   learned   language,    whicli,   like   the    Sanscrit,   has   fit'ty-two 

-characters;  and  these  are  sufficient  to  write  the  latter.  It  is 
spoken  on  the  coast  of  Orixa,  in  Golconda,  on  the  river  Kishna, 
and  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  Balangat.  All  these  languages 
have  their  own  alphabets  :  so  that  in  every  province  you  must 
•make  yourself  acquainted  with  a  distinct  kind  of  characters,  if 
you  wish  to  express  your  thoughts  in  the  dialect  common  in  each. 

7.  Tne  common  Bengal  language  :  a  wrc;tched  dialect,  cor- 
Tupied  in  the  utmost  degree.  It  is  spoken  at  Calcutta,  and  in  Ben- 
gal, on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges. 

8.  The  Devangaric,  or  Hindostan  language,  called  by  some 
Nagru,  Nagari,  and  also  Devanagari.  It  is  spoken  at  Benares,  or 
Verrarcs,  and  consists  of  fifiy-tv/o  characters,  with  which  the  Sans- 
crit may  be  written. 

9.  The  Guzaratic,  v/hich  has  been  introduced  not  only  into 
the  kingdom  of  Guzarat,  but  also  at  Barsche,  Surat,  Tatta,  and 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Balangat  mountains.  Its  characters  are 
little  different  from  those  of  the  Devanagaric. 

10.  The  Nepallic,  which  is  spoken  in  the  kingdom  of  Nepaul, 
and  has  a  great  similarity  to  the  DevuJiagark. 

Literature.  The  literature  of  Hindostan  contains  several  valu- 
able and  curious  monuments  ;  but  their  epochs  are  extremely 
uncertain.  The  most  important  books  are  the  Vedas  ;  there  are 
also  some  epic  poems,  which  pretend  to  coiitain  fragments  of  gen- 
uine history.  The  most  ancientv  called  Ramayna,*  was  written  by 
Valmeeki,  and  next  in  celebrity,  is  the  Mahabarat  of  Vyasa,  who 
is  said  to  have  been  tlie  author  of  some  Puranas,  and  of  course 
could  not  have  flourished  above  seven  hundred  years  ago  ;  and  it 
is  probable  that  the  more  ancient  poem  cannot  aspire  to  a  much 
higher  date.  Though  some  translations  of  their  best  works  have 
already  appeared,  they  have  not  acquired  the  smallest  degree  of 
Europt^an  n-putaiion  ;  and  have  very  iittic  interested  a  few  curious 
inquirers  though  eager  to  be  pleased. 

The  Hindoos  are  ignorant  of  the  Chinese  art  of  printing,  nor 
have  we  any  rules  for  determining  the  antiquity  of  their  manu- 
scripts. To  an  exact  inquirer  this  would  have  been  the  first  topic 
of  investigation  :  but  It  has,  on  the  contrary,  been  completely  neg" 
lecied.     We  have  merely  the  bold  assertions  of  Bramins,  eagerly 

*  This  work  has  been  translated  by  Rev.  Drs.  Carey,  and  Marsliman,  and 
.printed  at  Serampore,  in  1806.  A  copy  of  this  translation  is  in  the  Theologica: 
iilLibrary  iu  Andover,  Mass. 


0^  HINDOSTAN^: 

imbibed  !  y  European  credulity,  instead  of  successive  argurneais 
and  proofs. 

Universities.  The  chief  university  in  the  north,  is  that  of  Be- 
nares, a  celebrated  ancient  school,  now  included  in  the  English 
possessions.  In  the  Deccan,  the  academy  of  Triciur,  on  the  Mal- 
abar coast,  is  also  in  great  repute.  At  Ccmgiduram,  in  Carnate^ 
there  is  still  a  celebrated  Brahman  school,  which,  according  to 
the  testimony  of  Ptolemy,  existed  in  the  first  century  of  the  Chris- 
ian  era  ;  and  its  members  are  certainly  equal  in  celebrity  to  the 
Brahmans  of  Fenares^  or  Benares.*  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  tl^e  re- 
cent acquisition  in  the  south  will  lead  to  the  discovery  of  new  litera- 
ry treasures  in  that  quarter,  where  it  is  to  be  expected  that  native 
knowledge  is  more  perfect,  than  in  the  north,  where  it  was  so  long 
trampled  under  foot  by  the  Mahometan  conquerors. 
,  Manufactures.  The  manufactures  of  Hindostan  have  been 
celebrated  from  early  antiquity,  particularly  the  muslins  and  other 
fabrics  from  cotton.  Piece  goods  are  mentioned  by  ancient 
writers,  who  praise  the  manufacture  and  its  beautiful  colors.  The 
Hindoos,  in  the  time  of  Strabo,  were  also  noted  for  eLee  ant  works 
in  metals  and  ivory.  Nor  is  Hindostan  celebrated  at  this  day  for 
any  manufacture,  except  those  of  muslins  and  calicoes,  the  other 
exports  consisting  of  diamonds,  raw  silks,  with  a  few  wrought  siiksj 
spices,  drugs,  &c.  The  shawls  of  Cashmir  are  also  deservedly 
esteemed  ;  being  there  woven  from  a  material  chiefly  supplied 
from  Tibet. 

Mative  Products.  It  is  the  abundance  of  native  procTucts,  which 
has  in  all  ages  rendered  Hindostan  the  centre  of  a  great  trade. 
Diamonds,  and  some  other  precious  stones,  are  products  alniosj; 
peculiar  ;  as  well  as  many  spices,  aromatics,  and  drugs. 

Climate  ajid  Seasons.  The  climate  and  seasons  are  diversified 
by  difference  of  latitude,  and  local  situation.  Yet  in  general;, 
though  the  northern  Alps  of  Tibet  are  covered  with  perpetual 
snow,  there  is  some  similarity  of  climate  ihrough  the  wide  regions 
of  Hindostan.  \\\  Bengal  tlie  h.ot  or  dry  season  begins  with  Marclij 
and  continues  to  the  end  of  May,  the  thermometer  sometimes 
rising  to  110^;  this  intense  heat  is  occasionally  interrupted  by 
violent  thunder  storms  from  the  northwest.  The  rainy  season  con- 
tinues from  June  to  September  :  the  three  last  months  of  the  year 
are  generally  pleasant ;  but  excessivx^  fogs  often  prevail  in  January 
and  February.  The  periodical  rains  are  also  felt  in  Sindetic  Hin- 
dostan, except  in  Cashmir,  where  they  seem  to  be  excluded  by 
the  surrounding  mountains.  In  the  rest  of  Hindostan  they  al- 
rnost  deluge  the  country,  descending  like  cataracts  from  the  clouds, 
and  the  Ganges  and  other  rivers  spread  to  a  wide  extent,,  the  in- 
undation ceasing  in  September.  By  the  latter  end  of  June  the 
Ganges  has  ristn  fifteen  feet  and  a  half,  out  of  thirty-two,  which 
is  the  total  of  its  overflow.!  In  the  mountairts  the  rainy  season 
bep-ins  early  in  April  ;  but  rarely  in  the  plains  till  the  latter  end 
f.C  June.     By  the  latter  end  of  July  all  the  lower  parts  of  Bengal, 

*  Wesdin,  OS."..  -J-  Reanell,24?. 


HINDOSTAN.  573 

contiguous  to  the  Ganges  and  Burampooter,  are  overflowed,  and 
form  an  inundation  of  more  than  a  hundred  miles  in  width  ;  noth- 
ing appearing  but  villages  and  trees,  excepting  very  rarely  the 
lop  of  an  elevated  spot  (the  artificial  mound  of  some  deaeried  vil- 
lage) appearing  like  an  island. 

In  the  southern  division  the  chains  of  the  Gauts,  or  mountains 
of  Malabar  and  Coromandel,  supporting  the  high  tabic  land  in  the 
centre,  intercept  the  great  mass  of  clouds  ;  and  the  alternate  S. 
W.  and  N.  E.  winds,  called  the  Monsoons,  occasion  a  rainy  seasor^ 
on  one  side  of  the  mountains  only,  that  is,  on  the  windward  side. 
Yet  it  appears  that  during  the  first  part  of  the  rainy  monsoon,  in 
May  and  June,  on  the  coast  of  Malabar,  a  considerable  quantity  of 
rain  falls  in  the  upper  region,  or  table  land,  of  Mysore.  Tiie  mon- 
soon is  from  the  N.  E.  from  October  to  April  ;  and  from  May  to 
September  in  the  opposite  direction.  The  rainy  season  on  the 
coast  of  Coromandel  is  with  the  N.  E.  monsoon  ;  and  on  that  of 
Malabar  with  the  S.  W. :  in  general,  March,  April,  May,  and  June, 
are  the  dry  months. 

Hence,  while  in  Tibet  the  winter  nearly  corresponds  with  thai 
of  Switzerland  and  the  rest  of  Europe,  in  the  whole  extent  of  llin- 
dostan,  except  in  Cashmir,  there  can  liardly  be  said  to  be  a  vest- 
ige of  winter,  except  the  thick  fogs  of  an  English  November  :  and 
excessive  rains,  or  excessive  heats,  form  the  chief  varieties  of  the 
year. 

General  Face  of  the  Country.  The  aspect  of  this  wide  coun- 
try is  greatly  diversified  ;  but  in  general  there  are  no  mountains 
pf  any  considerable  height,  the  highest  Gauts  in  the  south  not  be- 
ing estimated  at  above  three  thousand  feet.  The  frontier  moun- 
tains of  Tibet  are  of  small  elevation,  compared  with  those  of  the 
interior  of  that  country  ;  and  the  wonderful  extent  of  Hindostat> 
consists  chiefly  of  extensive  plains,  fertilized  by  numerous  river."? 
and  streams,  and  interspersed  with  a  few  ranges  of  hills.  The 
periodical  rains  and  intense  heals  produce  luxuriance  of  vegeta- 
tion, almost  unknown  to  any  other  country  on  the  globe  ;  and  the 
variety  and  richness  of  the  vegetable  creation  delight  the  eye  of 
every  spectator.  « 

Soil  and  Productions.  The  soil  in  some  places  consists  of  black 
vegetable  mould,  to  the  depth  of  six  feet.  Rice  is  the  chief  grain  ; 
and  on  the  dry  sandy  lands  of  the  coast  of  Coromandel,  great  in- 
dustry is  displayed  in  watering  it.* 

Maize  and  the  sugar-cane  are  also  favorite  products.  Great 
attention  to  manure  seems  far  from  being  so  general  as  in  China, 
or  Japan  ;  nor  perhaps  is  it  necessary.  The  cultivation  of  cotton 
is  also  widely  diffused  ;  and  this  plant  particularly  thrives  on  the 
dry  coast  of  Coromandel. 

Rivers.  The  Ganges  and  Burramnooter  have  already  been  de- 
scribed. 

The  most  important  tributary  streams  which  swell  the  Gan^-cs, 
are  the  Gagra,  the  Jumna,  or  Yumena,  and  the  Soan. 

*  Sonnerat,  i.  106. 


:^-^  HINDOSTAN. 

The  Indus,  and  its  confluent  streams,  form  the  next  object. 
This  celebrated  river  is  by  the  natives  called  Seude,  or  Sindeh  ; 
it  has  a  course  of  about  1000  miU  s,  when  it  forms  a  delta  in  the 
provuice  of  Sinde,  entering   by  many   mouths  into  the  Indian  sea. 

The  tributary  rivers  of  the  Sinde  chiefly  join  it  in  the  northern 
4ialf  of  its  cotirse,  where  they  form  the  Panjab,  or  country  of  five 
rivers.  From  the  west  run  into  the  Indus  the  Kameh,  and  the 
Comul  ;  from  the  east  the  Behut,  the  Chunab,  the  Rauvee,  and  the 
6etlcge.  The  Punjab  country  is  on  the  east  of  the  Sinde.  The 
whole  of  this  part  of  Hindostan  is  little  known  to  the  moderns. 

'i  he  Subanreeka,  or  Subunrcka,  joins  the  sea  about  thirty  miles 
to  the  west  of  that  mouth  of  the  Ganges  called  the  Hoogley. 

The  Godaveri  rises  from  several  sources,  about  70  miles  N.  E. 
of  Bombay.*  About  90  miles  from  its  egress  into  the  sea,  the 
■Godaveri  receives  a  large  river,  the  Bain  Gonga,  which  pervades 
immense  teak  forests  in  a  singular  wild  country,  inhabited  by- 
savages,  in  the  centre  of  Hindostan,  and  as  yet  little  known  or  ex- 
plored. The  Bain  Gonga  was  first  discovered  to  Europeans  by 
the  late  Colonel  Camac,  its  course  being  about  400  miles,  while 
that  of  the  Godaveri  may  be  700.  It  also  receives  the  Burda  from 
the  north  ;,  and  from  the  south  a  circuitous  large  riverjthe  Mun- 
Eora,  which  passes  by  Beder. 

The  next  in  consequence,  in  the  central  division  oF  Hindostan,  is 
the  Nerbudda,  which  may  be  called  a  solitary  stream,  as  it  receives 
few  contributions.  Its  course  is  almost  due  west,  and  about  equal 
to  that  of  the  Godaveri.  The  Taptee,  which  passes  by  Surat,  is 
also  a  considerable  river  about  400  miles  in  length.  To  the  south 
of  this  river  the  superior  elevation  of  the  Sukhiem  mountains,  or 
western  Gauts,  diffuses  all  the  rivers  towads  the  east. 

The  Kistna,  a  sacied  river,  rises  not  far  to  the  south  of  Prona, 
and  forms  a  delta  near  Masuiipatam,  after  a  comparative  course  of 
about  500  miles.  This  river  rivals  any  Indian  stream  in  the  fertili- 
ty diffused  by  its  inundations  ;  and  the  riciiest  diamond  mines  in 
the  world  are  in  the  neighboring  hills  to  the  north.  The  chief 
tributary  streams  in  tiiat  quarter  are  the  Beema  ;  passing  near  the 
diamond  mines  of  Visiapour,  and  the  Musi,  or  Moussi,  by  those  of 
•Goiconda.  But  the  most  considerable  river  joins  the  Kistna  from 
vthe  south,  being  the  Toombuddra  of  Rennell's  last  map,  the  Tunge- 
■^adra  of  D'Anville  ;  on  the  banks  of  which  have  been  recently  dis- 
covcred  ma!  y  populous  provinces  and  flourishing  towns. 

To  the  south  of  the  Kistna  appear  the  Pennar,  the  Paliar,  and 
above  all  the  Caveri,  another  large  and  sacred  stream,  which  pass- 
es by  Seringapaiam,  the  capital  of  Mysore,  and  forms  a  wider  delta 
•tlia))  any  other  southern  river,  wiien  it  enters  the  sea  after  a  course 
of  about  3C0  miles. 

Lakct.  Rcnnell  mentions  that  of  Colair  lake,  during  the  inunda- 
tions 40  or  50  miles  in  extent,  and  a  considerable  piece  of  water  in 
:sil  seasons,  lying  about  midway  between  the  Godaveri  and  Kistna 

*  As.  Res.  V.  1.  ^. 


HINDOSTAN.  575 

A*  considerable  expanse  of  water  in  the  northern  part  oi'  Cashmii-  is- 
called  the  lake  of  Ouller  or  Tal,  being;  about  53  miles  in  circuit. 

Mountains.  The  mountains  chiefly  celebrated  l)y  the  Hindoos 
may  be  said  to  be  only  visible  from  their  country,  being  the  north- 
ern chain  of  the  Tibetian  Alps,  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 
Hence  they  arc  called  Himmala,  from  a  word  denoting  snow. 

The  ridge  of  Kuttore  is  properly  on  the  north  of  Cashmir,  run- 
ning east  and  Avest :  and  is  followed  by  tlie  Hindoo  Kch  of  oriental 
geographers. 

The  Gouts  are  ranges,  which  run  along  the  western  and  eastern 
coasts  of  the  Deccan.  The  former  is  by  the  natives  called  the 
mountains  of  Sukkien.* 

The  chains  of  mountains  rise  abruptly  on  each  '3ide,  but  particu- 
larly the  west,  forming  as  it  were  enormous  walls,  supporting  a 
high  terrace  or  table  land  in  the  middle.  This  elevated  tract,  pass- 
ing through  a  great  part  of  the  Maratta  territories  to  the  north  of 
Mysore,  is  termed  in  general  the  Balla  Gaut,  through  its  whole  ex- 
tent, while  low  passes  are  called  Paycn  Gaut.f  Opposite  to  Pania- 
ny,  on  the  western  coast,  there  is  a  break  of  the  mountains,  about 
16  miles  in  breadth,  chiefly  occupied  by  a  forest ;  exclusive  of  this 
gap  the  mountains  of  Sukkien  extend  from  cape  Comorin  to  Sural, 
at  the  distance  of  from  40  to  70  miles  from  the  shore. 

The  sandy  desert  (jn  the  east  of  the  Indus  must  not  be  orriitted, 
extending  in  length  between  400  ar»d  500  miles,  and  in  breadth 
from  60  to  1.50.  Of  this  great  desert  the  accounts  are  imporfect; 
but  it  is  styled  that  of  Agimerc,  and  seems  to  have  been  known  to 
Herodotus.  Such  wide  expanses  of  barren  sand  form  features  pe- 
culiar to  Asia  and  Africa. 

Mineralogy.  Hindostan  has  been  celebrated  in  all  ages  of  the 
world  for  its  diamonds. 

The  most  celebrated  diamond  mines  are  those  near  Visiapour 
and  Golconda,  both  near  streams  that  flow  into  the  Kistna  in  the 
southern  division  of  Hindostan,  Golconda  being  in  the  territory  of 
the  Nizam,  while  Visiapour  belongs  to  the  Marattas.:j: 

^aolconda^  a  famous  diamond  mine  in  the  territory  of  Visiapour, 
40  miles  N.  \V.  from  the  junction  of  the  Beema  and  Kistna,  seems 
to  be  the  most  noted  of  those  in  that  quaner.§  A  district  on  the 
river  Mahanada,  S.  of  Sumboulpour,  is  also  celebrnted  for  this  rich 
product;  as  is  Gandicotta,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  Per- 
nar.|| 

Next  in  value  to  the  diamond  arc  the  sapphire  and  the  ruby, 
■\vhich  are  chiefly  found  in  the  Birman  territories;  but  the  ruby  is 
found  also  in  Ceylon,  which  likewise  produces  an  inferior  kind  o*: 
sapphire,  the  topaz,  and  other  precious  stones. 

Among  the  metals  gold  is  found  in  the  rivers,  which  flow  from 
Tibet  into  the  Ganges  and  Indus  ;  but  no  gold  mines  have  been 
known  in  Hindostan.     Tibet,  a  mountainous  country,  abounds  ii* 

*  As.  Res.  vol.  i.  5.  f  Rennell,  cxxvii. 

\  Colore,  another  diamond  mine,  is  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Kistna,  noi 
far  from  Condavir.     Rennell,  290. 

§  Renndl,  -25^.  j|  Rennell,  -240, 


576  GANGETIC  HINDOSTAN. 

tl.is  precious  metal.  Silver  is  rare  throughout  the  oriental  regions- 
and  there  is  no  indication  of  this  mineral  throughout  ail  India. 
Thimberg  mentions  iron  ore  and  plumbago  among  the  minerals  of 
Ceylon  ;   but  says  nothhig  of  copper. 

GANGETIC  HINDOSTAN,   OR   THE    COUNTRIES  ON 
THE  GANGES. 

Kxte7it  and  Divisions.  This  grand  division  of  Hindostan,  before 
the  late  changes,  extended  from  the  eastern  boundaries  of  Bengal, 
lo  the  country  of  Sirhind,  a  length  of  about  1000  miles.  The 
greatest  breadth,  from  the  sources  of  the  Chumbul  to  the  moun- 
tains of  Sewalik,  is  about  450;  and  the  least,  on  the  west  of  the 
province  of  Bengal,  about  230  miles.  It  comprised  the  provinces 
of  Bengal,  Bahar,  Allahabad,  Oudc,  Agra,  with  part  of  Delhi  and 
Aginiere,  and  of  Mahva  in  the  south  ;  most  of  them  equal  in  celeb- 
rity to  any  in  Hindostan,  and  the  chosen  seats  of  the  power  of  the 
Monguls,  as  well  as  of  mighty  kingdoms,  even  in  classical  times. 

Bi-uish  Possessions.  Bengal,  Bahar,  with  Benares,  and  some 
other  districts  lo  the  west,  formed,  ten  years  since,  the  chief  basis 
and  centre  of  English  power  in  this  country.  The  British  settle- 
ments at  this  period  extended  about  550  miles  in  length,  by  300  in 
breadth,  in  themselves  a  powerful  kingdom.  The  native  popula- 
tion was  computed  at  10,000,000  or  11,000,000  of  black  subjects^ 
exclusive  of  the  English,  whose  number  was  not  ascertained. 

Revenue.  The  revenue,  oi  these  British  provinces  was  comput- 
ed at  4,210,000/.  sterling  ;  the  expense  of  collection,  military  and 
fivil  charges,  he.  2,540,000/.  ;  so  that  the  clear  revenue  is 
1,670,000/.'* 

Government.  The  government  of  Bengal  and  its  wide  depen- 
dencies, was  first  vested  in  a  governor  general  and  a  supreme 
council,  consisting  of  a  pret-ident  and  11  counsellors:  but  in  1773 
these  were  restricted  to  4,  with  Warren  Hastings  the  governor 
general,  who  were  to  direct  all  affairs,  civil  and  military,  in  the 
kingdoms  of  Bengal,  Bahar,  and  Orissa ;  and  lo  control  the  inferior 
governments  of  Madras  on  the  E.  and  Bombay  on  the  \Y.  with 
Bencoolen  in  the  island  of  Sumatra.! 

C(jli^ffe.  The  college  of  Fort  William,  at  Calcutta,  in  Bengal, 
was  founded,  May,  1800.  During  the  7  first  years  of  its  establish- 
ment it  produced  nearly  100  volumes  in  oriental  literature.  This 
college,  after  encountering  several  difficulties,  is  now  in  afiourish- 
ing  condiuon,  and  has  received  the  sanction  and  patronage  of  the 
East-India  Company.  The  benefit  of  this  institution  consists  prin- 
cipally in  diffusing  a  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures  over  the  East. 
Tlicre  is  a  department  for  the  translation  of  the  Bible  into  the  ori- 
ental languages,  and  a  commencement  had  been  made,  in  1805,  in 
5  languages! 

Army.  IMie  military  establishment  in  Bengal  is  always  respec- 
table, but  varies  according  to  the  situation  of  affairs.     A  force  of 

*  Pennant,  ii.  327.  f  Rennell,  cxiv.  \  Buchannan'*  Researchea. 


GANGETIC  HINDOSTAN.  srt 

'20,000  British  soldiers  might  probably  encounter  and  vanquish 
500,000  blacks  or  Hindoos. 

Cities  and  Towns.  The  cliief  city  of  Bengal,  and  of  all  the  Brit- 
ish possessions  in  Hindostan,  is  Calcutta.  Lat.  22  33  N.  Ion.  88 
28  E.  from  Greenwich. 

"  Generally  speakin;^,  the  description  of  one  Indian  city  is  a  de- 
scription of  ail ;  they  being  all  built  on  one  plan,  with  very  narrowj, 
confined,  and  crooked  streets  ;  an  incredible  number  of  reservoirs 
and  ponds,  and  a  great  many  gardens,  interspersed.  A  fcv/  oFthe 
streets  are  paved  with  brick.  The  houses  arc  variously  buiit,  some 
of  brick,  others  with  mud,  and  a  still  greater  proportion  with  bam- 
boos and  mats  :  and  these  different  kinds  of  fabrics,  standing  inter- 
mixed with  each  other,  form  a  motley  appearance  :  tl;oseofthe 
latter  kind  are  invariably  of  one  story,  and  covered  with  thatch. 
Those  of  brick  seldom  exceed  tv/o  floors,  and  have  flat  terraced 
roofs. 

"  Calcutta  is,  in  part,  an  exception  to  this  rule  of  building  ;  for 
there  the  quarter  inliabited  by  the  English  is  composed  entirely  of 
brick  buildings,  many  of  which  have  more  the  appearance  of  pala- 
ces, than  of  private  houses  ;  but  the  remainder  oi  tlie  city,  and  by 
much  the  greatest  part,  is  built  as  above  described.  Calcutta  is 
the  emporium  of  Bengal,  and  the  seat  of  the  governor  general  of 
India.  It  is  a  very  extensive  and  populous  ciiy,  suppo.->ed  to  con- 
lain  at  least  500,000  inhabitants.  Calcutta  is  situated  on  the  west- 
ern arm  of  the  Ganges,  about  100  miles  from  the  sea  ;  and  the  riv- 
er is  navigable  up  to  the  town  for  the  largest  ships  that  visit  India. 
It  is  a  modern  city,  liaving  risen  on  the  site  of  the  village  of  Go- 
vindpour,  about  100  years  ago.  The  citadel  is  superior  in  every 
point,  as  to  strength  and  correctness  of  design,  to  any  fortress  in  In- 
dia ;  but  on  too  extensive  a  scale  to  answer  the  useful  purpose  in- 
tended, that  of  holding  a  post  in  case  of  extremity."* 

In  this  grand  capital  of  British  Asia,  the  mixture  of  people  and 
manners  presents  a  picturcsfpie  and  interesting  scene. 

Tlie  commerce  of  Calcutta  is  veiy  great  in  suit,  sugar,  opiumj 
silks,  and  muslins,  Sec. 

Dacca,  beyond  the  principal  stream  of  the  Ganges,  defended  on 
the  east  by  the  Burrampoot,  is  celebrated  for  manufactures  of  the 
most  delicate  muslins,  made  from  the  cotton  of  the  district.  It 
was  once  the  capital  of  Bengal,  and  was  succeeded  by  Moorshed» 
abad,  a  modern  city.  Hoogley,  or  Ugli,  is  a  small  but  ancient  city, 
26  miles  above  Calcutta,  on  the  grand  western  btanch  of  the  Gan- 
ges, which  thence  receives  its  name. 

Patna  is  tlie  capital  of  the  province  of  Bahar,  400  miles  N.  W. 
from  Calcutta,  being  tolerably  fortified,  and  a  place  of  considerable 
trade,  particularly  in  saltpetre. 

Benares,  near  the  western  frontier  of  the  British  possessions,  is  a 
rich,  populous,  and  compact  city,  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Gan- 
ges, about  460  miles  from  Calcutta.  Benares,  anciently  called  Ka- 
si,  was  the  liiost  early  seat  of  Braminical  knowledge  in  the  north. 

*  Renneli,  5S,  59. 
73 


SU  SINDETIC  HINDOSrAN. 

On  leaving  the  British  possessions,  and  proceeding  towards  the: 
west,  we  come  first  to  Allahabad,  in  t  e  province  so  called,  at  the^ 
confluence  of  the  Jumna  and  the  Ganges,  a  city  belonging  to  the 
■nabob  of  Oude,  but  of  little  consequence.  Not  far  to  the  S.  VV.  of* 
Allahabad,  are  the  diamond  mines  of  Penna,  in  the  s.Tiall  detached^ 
province  of  Butidelcund.  Lucknovv  is  the  present  capital  of  Oude. 
At  a  considerable  distance  to  the  N;  W.  is  Borilli,  a  small,  but 
noted  town,  near  the  northern  frontier. 

Agra  was  the  capita]  of  the  Mogul  empire,  about  A.  D.  1566  It 
was  then  a  small  foitified  town,  it  suddenjy  became  an  extensive 
and  magnificent  city,  but  has  as  vapidly  declined. 

To  the  N.  W'.  of  Agra,  near  the  confines  of  Sindetic  Hindostany 
stands  the  celebrated  city  of  Delhi,  the  Mahometan  capital  of  In- 
dia. Bcrnier  computed  the  extent  of  Delhi,  in  1663,  at  3  leagues, 
exclusive  of  the  fortifications  ;  and  represents  Agra  as  of  wider 
circuit.  This  city  is  now  in  ruins,  exhibiting  many  noble  and 
splendid  remahis  of  palaces,  with  baths  of  marble.*  Nadir  Shah  is 
said  to  have  massacred  100,000  people  in  this  city. 

Oujein,  the  farthest  city  in  the  south  of  Gangetic  Hindostan,  is 
about  6  miles  in  circumference,  surrounded  by  a  strong  wall,  with 
round  rowers.  The  houocs,  partly  brick,  partly  wood,  covered 
with  lime,  tarass,  or  tiles  :  the  baaar,  or  market,  is  spacious,  and 
pavefi  with  stone  :  there  are  4  mosques,  and  several  Hindoo  tem- 
ples, with  a  new  palace  built  by  Sindia.  On  the  south  runs  the  riv- 
er Sippara. 

The  noted  fort  of  Gwalior  must  not  be  omitted,  being  a  striking 
object  in  Hindoo  topography.  The  insulated  rock  on  which  i: 
stands,  is  about  4  miles  in  length,  but  narrow  :  the  sides  are  almost 
perpendicular,  from  200  to  300  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain. t^ 
On  the  top  there  is  a  town,  with  wells  and  reservoii'S,  and  some 
cultivated  land.  This  celebrated  fortress,  which  is  about  HO  mile^' 
to  the  south  of  Agra,  was  taken  bj^-surpiise  bj?- a  few  English,  un- 
der Major  Popham,  in  1779. 

SINDETIC    HINDOSTAN,    OR   THE    COUNTRIES    ON 
THE  RIVER  SINDEH,  OR  INDUS. 

Extent,  This  part  extends  frOm  tlie  northern  mountains  of 
Cashmir,  and  the  Hindoo  Koh,  in  the  north  of  Cabul,  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Indus,  a  length  of  about  900  miles,  and  about  350  in  medial 
breadth.  Besides  part  of  the  provinces  of  Delhi  and  Agimer,  it' 
contains  the  extensive  province  of  Moultan,  with  Lahore,  Caslimir, 
Cabul,  the  frontier  region  of  Candahar,  and  that  of  Sindi,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Indus.  These  provinces  are  the  most  rtmote  from 
the  seatof  Britisli  power,  and,  the  greater  part  of  modern  travellers 
having  visited  Hindostan  by  sea,  they  are  less  accurately  known 
than  any  other  quaiter. 

Chief  Cities  and  Towns.  Lahore,  now  the  capital  of  the  Seiks, 
was  the  residence  of  the  first  Mahometan  conquerors  before  they' 

•  As.  Res.  iv.  417.  ■}•  Hodges,  139. 


SINDETIC  HINDOSTAN.  579 

advanced  to  the  more  central  parts  ;  and,  including  the  suburbs, 
irras  supposed  to  be  3  leagues  in  length.  From  Lahore  lo  Agra, 
near  500  English  miles,  there  was  an  avenue  ol  shady  trees  * 

Nearly  north  from  Lahore,  at  the  supposed  distance  ot  about  200 
•miles,  stands  Cashmir,  the  capital  of  the  delightful  province,  so 
called.  It  extends  about  3  miles  on  each  side  ot  the  river  Jalum, 
over  which  are  4  or  5  wooden  bridges,  and  occupies  in  some  part 
of  its  breadth,  which  is  irregular,  about  2  miles.  '1  he  houbts,  many 
of  them  2  and  3  stories,  arc  slightly  built  of  brick  and  moriar,  with 
a  large  intermixture  (yf  timber.  On  a  standing  roof  of  wood  is  laid 
a  covering  of  fine  earth,  which  shelters  the  building  from  the  great 
quantity  of  snow  that  falls  in  the  winter  season.  This  fence  com- 
municatco  an  equal  warmth  in  winter  as  a  refreshing  coolness  in 
the  summer  season,  when  the  tops  of  the  houses^  which  are  plant- 
ed with  a  variety  of  flowers,  exhibit  at  a  distance  the  spacious  viev/ 
of  a  beautifully  checkered  parterre.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and 
choaked  with  t!ie  fiith  o!  the  inhabitants,  who  are  proverbially  un- 
clean. No  buildings  are  seen  in  this  city  v/orthy  of  remark.  The 
country  of  Cashmir  is  a  delicioufs  vale,  extending  in  an  oval  form, 
about  90  miles  from  S  E.  to  N.  W.  The  celebrated  shawls  arc 
only  manufattuitd  here  ;  the  material  being  from  Tibet,  especial- 
ly those  districts  which  lie  at  a  month's  journey  to  the  north-east. 

The  city  of  Cahul  is  ihe  capital  of  tlie  dominions  of  the  Persiau 
Shah,  usually  styled,  king  of  Candahar,  whose  dominions  ezztend 
■westward'  beyond  the  sea  of  Durrah,  including  a  great  part  of  Co- 
rasan,  v/ith  the  large  Persian  province  of  Segistan,  being  about  800 
miles  in  length  by  about  hulf  that  bread tli.  Cabul  is  a  considerable 
city,  in  a  romantic  and  healthy  situation. 

Ghizni,  or  Gasna,  is  remarkable  as  the  scat  of  the  first  Mahom- 
etan conquerors  of  Hindostan,  whose  empire  almost  corresponds 
•with  the  modern  kingdom  of  CandJihar,  wliose  capital  of  the  same 
name  is  a  noted  pass  from  Persia  into  Hindostan. 

Moultan,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  this  name  is  on  the  large 
river  Chunab,  not  far  from  its  junction  v/ith  the  Indus,  along  which 
there  is  an  uninterrupted  navigation  for  vessels  of  200  tons,  not  on- 
ly to  this  city,  but  as  far  as  l.,ahore.t  Moultan  is  a  small  city,  and 
ef  little  consequence,  except  for  its  antiquity  and  cotton  manufac- 
ture. 

The  last  remarkable  city  on  the  Indus  is  Tatta,  the  capital  of 
the  province  of  Sindi,  and  situated  within  the  Delta.  The  heals 
are  so  violent,  and  the  winds  from  the  sandy  deserts  on  the  E.  and 
N.  W.  so  pernicious,  that  many  precautions  are  used.  The  man- 
ufactures of  this  city  in  silk,  wool  from  Kerman,  and  cotton,  have 
greatly  declined. 


*  Rennel),  82. 

fRennell,   178;    yet,  page  9?,  he  mentions  the  river  Oi  Moultan  as  beJnj 
:hcaked  up  about  1665. 


§$0  CENTRAL  HINDOSTANo 


CENTRAL  HINDOSTAN,OR  THE  MIDDLE  PROVINCES. 

Boundaries.  This  division  is  chiefly  boumled  by  Gangetic  Hin- 
doslan  on  the  north,  and  ox\  the  west  by  the  sandy  desert  and  the 
ocean.  The  southern  limit  is  the  river  Kistiia,  with  its  tributary 
stream  the  Beema,  while  the  E.  is  washed  by  the  bay  of  Bengal. 
The  length  from  E.  to  W.  is  about  1200  miles  ;  the  medial  breadth 
about  400.  In  it  are  comprehended  the  province  of  Orissa,  with 
part  of  Golccnda,  Berar,  Dov/latabad,  Candcish,  and  Guzerat,  and 
other  districts  of  inferior  name  ;  and  on  the  eastern  shore  are  the 
"British  provinces  of  the  sircars. 

Chief  Cilies-  The  city  of  Amedabad,  capital  of  the  province 
of  Guzaret,  is  considerable,  and  welUurtified,  taken  by  the  English 
under  general  Goddard  in  17C0,  restored  to  the  Marattas  in  1783, 
Cambay,  al  the  distance  of  more  than  50  miles,  may  be  called  the 
sea  port  of  this  capital  ;  itself  a  handsome  city,  formerly  of  great 
trade  in  spice,  ivory,  silk,  and  cotton  cloths  ;  but  the  harbor  was. 
impeded  with  sand  and  mud,  and  is  now  little  frequented,  the  trade 
being  chiefly  transferred  to  Surat. 

Surat  was  formerly  more  celebrated  as  the  port  whence  the  Ma- 
>iometans  of  India  embarked  on  their  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  than 
for  any  other  circumstance,  though  reported  to  have  been  an  im- 
portant city  in  ancient  times.  It  was  among  the  first  places  in  this 
country  frequented  by  the  English.  The  inliabitants  are  said  to  be 
500,000,  a  considerable  part  of  whom  are  Moors^  that  is,  Arabs, 
Persians.  Monguls,  Turks,  professing  Mahometanism,  but  retain- 
ing some  Pagan  rites. 

Bombay,  a  considerable  distance  south,  is  a  well  known  English 
settlement,  on  a  small  island  about  seven  miles  in  leagth,  contain=' 
ing  a  very  strong,  capacious  fortress,  a  large  city,  a  dock  yard, 
and  a  marine  arsenal.*  It  was  ceded  to  the  English  in  1662  by 
the  Portuguese,  as  part  of  the  dower  of  the  queen  of  Charles  II. 

Juggernaut,  in  the  province  of  Orissa,  is  noted  for  being  the 
seat  of  a  famous  idol  of  the  Hindoos.  Al  the  celebration  of  the 
annual  festival  the  multitude  collected  at  this  spot  is  immense. 
The  natives  when  speaking  of  the  number  say,  that  100,000 
would  not  be  missed.  Tlie  pilgrims  are  from  all  parts  of  India, 
of  all  characters  and  all  ages.  Multitudes  perish  on  their  jour- 
ney, and  for  tiie  distance  of  50  miles  from  Juggernaut  the  ground 
is  strewed  vvith  human  bones  and  skulls.  The  fatigue  of  long 
journies  in  the  hottest  season  of  the  year,  together  with  extreme 
ta.iiine,  but  above  all  the  immense  number  of  voluntary  human 
sacrifices,  has  occasioned  so  large  a  collection  of  dead  bodies^ 
tlr>t  the  vultures,  dogs  and  jackalls,  seem  to  live  on  human  prey. 
The  vicinity  of  Juggernaut  to  the  sea  probably  prevents  the  con- 
tagion, which  otherwise  would  be  produced  by  the  putrefaction*; 
of  the  place. t 

*  Rennel,  31.  ;  the  name  in  Portuguese,  Bucn  lahiy.  a  good  bay, 
•|-  Eueh^nnan. 


DECCAN,  OR  SOUTHERN  HINDOSTAN.        581 

On  leaving  the  shore  and  proceeding  towards  the  east  of  central 
Hindostan,  first  is  the  city  of  Burhampour,  of  small  note.  Ellich- 
pour  is  of  considerable  importance,  being  the  chief  city  of  Berar. 
Nagpour  is  the  capital  of  the  eastern  division  of  the  Maratta  em- 
pire, as  Poona  is  of  the  western,  being  a  modern  city  of  small  size. 
Nagpour  may  be  called  the  central  city  of  Hindostan. 

Not  far  to  the  east  of  this  city  begins  that  extensive  and  unex- 
plored wilderness,  which  is  pervaded  by  the  great  river  Bain  or 
Baun  Gonga,  and  terminates  in  the  mountains  bounding  the  En- 
glish sircars.* 

Aurungabad,  is  a  modern  city,  deriving  its  name  from  Anrung- 
zeb,  in  whose  time  it  was  the  capital  of  the  Deccan,  or  parts  lo  the 
S.  of  Hindostan  proper.  It  was  afterwards  the  metropolis  of  the 
Nizam's  territory,  till  the  preference  was  given  to  Hydiabad. 
Near  this  city  is  Dowlatabad,  which  gives  name  to  the  province, 
with  a  singular  fortress  on  a  peaked  rock.f 

This  country  formerly  was  the  seat  of  great  power,  and  an  ex- 
tensive commerce  which  has  declined,  being  now  chiefly  trans- 
ferred to  the  Ganges.  The  Roman  and  Arabian  fame  of  the  west- 
ern shores  has  vanished  ;  and  silence  prevails  in  the  streets  of 
Barygaza  or  Baroach,  the  port  of  the  great  inland  city  Tagara, 
•whence  the  products  of  India,  gems,  ivory,  myrrh,  pepper,  ginger, 
and  cotton  cloths,  plain  or  ornamented  with  flowers,  were,  in  the 
time  of  Arrain,  exported  to  the  western  world. 

In  later  times  the  southern  part  of  this  coast  was  remarkable 
as  the  chosen  residence  of  daring  pirates.  They  resembled  on  a 
small  scale  t'le  piratical  slates  of  Barbary,  till  1756,  wben  the  En-? 
glish  seized  Gheriah,  the  principal  fortress. 


DECCAN,  OR  SOUTHERN  HINDOSTAN. 

Boundaries.  This  pari,  which  may  also  be  called  the  Deccan  or 
South, in  the  most  proper  acceptation  of  the  term,  is  bounded,  by  the 
river  Kisna,  and  its  most  northern  subsidiary  streams  flowing  into 
the  Beema.  Hence  it  Avill  extend  from  the  latitude  of  Bombay,  to 
the  southern  point  of  Cape  Comorin,  about  830  miles  in  length,  and 
about  350  of  medial  breadth.  It  contains  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
province  of  Visiapour,  and  the  most  important  part  of  that  of  Gol- 
conda,  with  the  central  kingdom  of  Mysore,  the  long  eastern  pro- 
vince of  Carnada,  or  the  Carnatic,  the  principalities  of  Tanjorr, 
Travancore,  and  the  Samorins  of  Calicut,  the  pepper  coast  cl' 
Canaia,  and  other  districts.  In  this  division  of  Hindostan  may  also 
be  included  the  island  of  ^jCeylon,  the  coasts  of  which  are  now  pos- 

•  See  Mr.  Blum's  journey,  for  minute  details  concerning  this  formerly  ob- 
scure region.  Asiat.  Reg.  ii.  128 — 200.  This  important  journey  appears  to 
have  been  undertaken  solely  with  geographical  views  ;  and  it  is  said  that  the  East 
India  Company  entertain  the  highly  laudable  intention  of  publishing  an  entire- 
ly new  map  of  Hindostan. 

f  See  the  prints  Bernoulli,  i.  4S0, 


S82        DECCAN,  OR  SOUTHERN  HINDOSTAN. 

sessed  by  the  English,  who  have  supplanted  the  Dutch  ;    while 
the  native  princes  retain  the  extensive  inland  parts. 

■British  Possessions.  In  addition  to  the  district  around  Mad- 
r4\s,  the  British  power  was,  in  1792  and  1799,  extended  over  wide 
provinces  in  the  south  and  west  of  Mysore  ;  and  Seringapatam, 
the  capital,  is  also  in  their  possession,  so  that  their  territories  in 
this  portion  of  Hindostan  only  yield  in  extent  and  consequence  to 
those  on  the  Ganges. 

Chief  Cities.  Seringapatam  may  be  regarded  as  the  inost  im- 
portant city  in  this  portion  of  Hindostan.  It  is  situated  in  an  isle, 
surrounded  by  the  river  Caveri,  which  is  even  here  about  five 
feet  deep  and  runs  over  a  rocky  cliannel.  The  length  of  this  isle 
is  about  four  miles,  and  the  breadth  about  a  mile  and  a  half;  the 
■western  side  being  allotted  to  the  fortress,  distinguished  by  regu- 
lar out-".vorks,  magnificent  palaces,  and  lofty  mosques  ;  for  Tip- 
poo  and  liis  father  were  Mahometans.  The  environs  were  dec- 
orated with  noble  gardens  ;  and  among  the  means  of  defence  was 
what  is  called  the  bound  hedge.,  consisting  of  every  thorny  tree  or 
caustic  plant  of  the  climate,  planted  to  the  breadth  of  from  thirty 
to  fifty  feet. 

In  this  central  territory  the  British  also  possess  several  consider- 
able towns,  Salem  and  Attore  in  the  E.  ;  Dindigul,  Coimbetore, 
Palicaud,  on  the  south  ;  and  on  the  western  coast,  Paniany,  Fero- 
kabad,  Calicut,  now  nearly  deserted,  Tellicherri,  Mangalore,  and 
the  northern  British  possession  of  Carwar  is  within  forty  miles  of 
the  Portuguese  settlement  of  Goa  ;  while  on  the  S.  they  approach 
within  a  like  distance  of  Cochin.  Of  these  places,  Calicut  is  me- 
morable as  the  first  Indian  port  visited  by  the  Portuguese  under 
Vasco  de  Gama,  and  as  the  seat  of  the  Zamorins,  who  at  that  pe- 
riod appear  to  have  possessed  the  whole  Malabar  coast  from  Goa 
to  Cochin. 

Not  far  from  the  western  frontier  of  the  British  settlement  at 
Madras  stands  Arcot,  ,the  capital  of  the  Carnatic.  The  Nabob* 
often  resides  at  Madras.  In  his  dominions  there  are  several 
celebrated  temples,  visited  by  numerous  pilgrims  ;  and  in  general 
the  southern  parts  of  Hindostan  display  more  numerous  edifices, 
and  other  marks  of  civilization,  than  the  northern. 

Tranquebar  is  a  noted  Danish  settlement  in  the  kingdom  of 
Tanjore,  which  embraces  the  wide  Delta  of  the  Caveri.  This 
settlement  was  formed  about  1617,  and  has  been  chiefly  remarka- 
ble on  account  of  the  Lutheran  missionaries,  who  resorted  hither 
to  convert  the  Hindoos,  and  have  sometimes  contributed  to  illus- 
trate natural  history.  Pondicherri  was  the  principal  settlement  of 
the  French,  founded  in  1674,  and  before  the  war  of  1756,  was  a 
large  and  beauuful  city. 

On  the  coast,  of  Malabar,  stands  Cochin,  on  the  northern  point 
of  a  long  tract  of  land,  forming  a  kind  of  island,  surrounded  on  the 
eaht  by  a  creek  of  the  sea,  which  receives  several  streams.  But 
ihe  harbo!'  is  obstructed  by  a  dangerous  bar. 

*  This  word,  also  written  Navah^  implies  lieutenant-^ovfirnor,  or  viceroy; 

but  the  ritli;  bpcame  hereditary. 


DECCAN,  Oft  SOUTHERN  HINDOSTAN'.         a^s^ 

About  a  mile  from  the  city  of  Cochin,  is  a  town  called  Jcws'- 
Town.  It  is  almost  wholly  inhabited  by  Jews,  who  have  two  re- 
spectable syna!ro;^ues.  There  are  Jewb  here  from  remote  parts  of 
Asia,  so  that  this  is  the  fountain  of  intelligence  concerning;  ihac 
people  in  the  East.  The  resident  Jews  are  divided  into  two  class- 
es, called  the  Jerusalem,  or  white  Jews,  and  the  ancient  or  blach 
Jews.  The  white  Jev/s  reside  at  Jews'-Town.  The  black  Jews 
have  a  synagogue  there,  but  the  great  l)ody  of  that  tribe  inhabit 
towns  u\  the  interior  of  the  province.  Tlio  black  Jews  have  been 
settled  here  n\ucli  the  longest.* 

To  the  north  of  the  British  territories  first  occurs  Goa,  for- 
merly a  capital  settlement  of  the  Portuguese.  This  city,  once 
magnificent,  stands  on  a  small  isle  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  bay, 
which  receives  a  rivulet  called  the  Gonga,  and  two  or  three  others 
from  the  Bulagauts,  or  highest  mountains  of  Suckhien,  which  form 
a  grand  distant  prospect,  while  the  intervening  scene  is  variegated 
with  hills  woods,  convents,  and  villas.  The  harbor  is  ranked  a- 
mong  the  first  in  India. 

There  is  an  Old  and  New  Goa  on  the  W.  coast  of  Ilindostaiir. 
Tiie  old  city  is  about  8  miles  up  the  river  Mandova.  The  viceroy 
and  chief  Portuguese  inhabitants  reside  at  New  Goa,  which  is  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  witliin  the  forts  of  the  harbor.  The  old 
city  is  now  almost  entirely  deserted  by  the  secular  Portuguese, 
and  is  inhabited  by  the  priests  alone.  The  unhealthiness  of  the 
of  the  place,  and  the  ascendency  of  the  priests,  are  the  causes  as- 
signed for  abandoning  the  ancient  city.  The  churches  of  Old 
Goa,  are  remarked  for  their  magnificence.  Old  Goa  is  properly 
a  city  of  churches  ;  and  tbe  wealth  of  provinces  appear  to  have- 
been  expended  in  their  execution.  The  chapel  of  the  palace  Is 
built  after  the  plan  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  The  cathedral  of  Goa 
is  worthy  of  one  of  the  principal  cities  of  Europe.  In  this  place  was 
the  noted  inquisition  so  remarkable  for  its  secret  and  excessive- 
cruelty  towards  the  enemies  of  the  Romish  church.  Tiiis  inquisi- 
tion was  suppressed  by  royal  edict  in  the  year  1775,  established 
again  in  1779,  and  again  suj)pressed  in  1812.  There  are  upwards 
of  three  thousand  priests  belonging  to  Goa,  who  are  resident  at  the 
place,  or  reside  with  their  cures  cit  a  distance. f 

Porna  is  the  capital  of  the  western  empire  of  the  Marattas,  and 
a  mean,  defenceless  city  ;  the  archives  of  the  government,  and  in 
all  appearance  the  chief  seat  of  poorer,  is  at  Poorunder,  a  fortress 
about  18  miles  to  the  south-east. 

Visiapour,  in  the  Maratta  territory,  also  called  IJojapour,  is  a 
considerable  city,  and  was  once  the  capital  of  a  large  kingdom  oi" 
the  same  name.     In  the  vicinity  are  celebrated  diamond  mines. 

Hydrabad  is  the  metropolis  of  the  Nizam's  territory,  and  partic- 
ularly of  the  celebrated  kingdom  or  province  of  Golconda,  but 
seems  otherwise  little  remarkable.  Betwixt  these  two  last-namtcl 
cities  stands  Calberga,  formerly  t!io'  cypital  of  a  powerful  kingdom^ 
that  of  the  Deccan. 

*  Buchftncaa.  f  Dr.  SuchanoAti. 


3b  4  CEYLON, 

In  the  interior  of  Travancore  and  Malabar,  on  the  S.  point  of 
Hindostan,  near  Ceylon,  are  the  Syrian  Christians  ;  a  people  who 
Lave  been  settled  here,  though  long  unknown  to  Europeans,  froni 
the  first  ages  of  Christianity.  The  Portuguese,  in  their  discove- 
ries of  the  sixteenth  century,  make  the  first  mention  of  them. 
Since  that  time  little  notice  has  been  taken  of  their  accounts,  and 
in  modern  times  their  existence  began  to  be  questioned.  Dr.  Bu- 
channan,  however,  in  the  year  1806,  travelled  into  their  couniry, 
and  confirms  the  Portuguese  accounts.  He  says,  that  their  church- 
es bear  some  resemblance  to  the  old  parish  churches  in  England. 
In  the  articles  of  their  faith,  and  in  their  church  government,  they 
agree  in  every  material  point  with  the  church  of  England.  Their 
archbishops,  bishops,  deacons,  and  other  inferior  officers,  are  the 
same.  They  have  a  Liturgy,  from  which  they  read  prayers  in  pub- 
lic :  and  their  manner  of  performing  divine  service  agrees  with 
that  of  the  Episcopal  church.  Their  churches  are  55  in  number. 
Among  these  Christians  have  been  pieserved  in  manuscript  the 
ancient  copies  of  the  Bible,  which  will  probably  be  of  essential  ser- 
vice in  throwing  light  upon  many  disputed  passages. 


ISLAND  OF  CEYLON. 

Extent.  THOUGH  this  island  be  not  above  a  fifth  part  of  the 
size  ascribed  to  it  by  the  strange  exaggeration  of  the  ancients,  it 
still  approaches  to  that  of  Iri-land,  being  generally  supposed  to  be 
about  260  miles  in  length  by  about  150  in  breadth. 

This  island  is  only  important  in  a  commercial  view,  from  its  cel- 
ebrated products  of  cinnamon  and  gems.  The  harbor  of  Trinco- 
niali  on  the  E.  is  to  the  British  of  great  consequence,  because  there 
is  none  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Hindostan. 

Religion.  The  religion  of  Ceylon  is  the  ancient  worship  of  Boodhj 
•and  it  is  supposed  to  have  originated  in  Ceylon  ;  and  thence  to 
have  spreatl  to  ancient  Hindostan,  to  exterior  India,  Tibet,  and 
even  to  China  and  Japan. 

The  population  of  this  island  which  is  subject  to  the  British  gov- 
ernment amounts,  according  to  the  best  authorities,  to  upwards  of 
a  million  and  a  half,  aiid  one  third  is  supposed  to  profess  Christian- 
ity. This  population  was  divided  by  the  Dutch,  while  they  possess- 
ed the  island,  into  240  churckships,  and  three  native  schoolmasters 
were  appointed  to  each  churchship.  The  Dutch  appointed  none 
10  oftice  but  Christians.*  These  Christians  are  in  great  want  of 
the  Scriptures  in  their  own  language,  and  of  religious  teachers. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  natives  of  Ceylon,  called  Cinga- 
lese and  Ceylonesc,  are  not  so  black  as  those  of  Malabar,  and  have 
manners  and  customs  somewhat  distinct  from  other  Hindoos.  It 
is  said  that  several  brothers  may  have  one  wife  in  common,  as  in 
Tibet,  but  the  polygamy  of  males  is  also  allowed.f     In  general^ 

*  Buchanuan's  Researches.  fWesdin,  435. 


CEYLON.  m' 

thastity  is  little  esteemed  in  the  oriental  countries  ;  and  the  moral- 
ity of  many  nations  is  so  lax  in  this  respect,  tiiat  the  intercourse  of 
the  sexes  is  considered  as  far  more  indifferent  than  the  use  of  cer- 
tain foods.  They  speak  the  Tamul  and  Ccyloncse  languages,  into 
the  former  of  Aviiich  the  Scriptures  have  been  translated. 

Towns.  The  native  town  Kandi,  in  the  centre  of  the  isle,  is  of 
small  size  and  consequence,  and  probably  only  distinguished  by  a 
palisade  and  a  few  temples.  It  was  taken  by  the  Portuguese  ia 
1590  ;  but  no  recetit  traveller  appears  to  have  visited  it. 

The  chief  town  of  the  English  possessions  is  Colombo,  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  island,  a  handsome  place,  and  well  fortified  ;  the 
residence  of  the  governor  is  elegant,  consisting  ol  one  floor,  with  a 
balcony  to  receive  the  cool  air.* 

The  northern  parts  of  Ceylon  are  chiefly  left  to  the  natives.  The 
town  of  Jafnapatam,  or  Jafna,  was  a  Dutch  settlement  in  a  detach- 
ed  isle. 

The  harbor  of  Trincomali  opens  at  the  mouth  ofJtheMowil 
Ganga. 

Matura  v/as  a  Dutch  factory  near  the  most  southern  promontory 
called  Dondra,  where  excellent  kinds  of  cinnamon  were  collected^ 
and  varieties  of  precious  stones  abound  in  the  vicinity,!  Not  far 
to  the  W.  of  Matura  is  Gale,  or  Galle,  near  a  point  so  called,  a 
handsome  town,  strongly  fortified,  on  the  projecting  angle  of  a 
rock4 

Manufactures.  There  is  little  mention  of  any  manufactures  con- 
ducted in  this  island  ;  but  the  natives  are  not  unskilled  in  the  com* 
mon  works  in  gold  and  iron. 

Climate.  The  climate  and  seasons  correspond  in  some  degree 
with  the  adjacent  continent;  yet  the  exposure  on  all  sides  to  the 
sea  renders  the  air  more  cool  and  salubrious.  The  general  aspect 
of  the  country  somewhat  resembles  that  of  soutiiern  Hindostan  ;  a 
high  table  land,  in  the  centre,  being  surrounded  with  low  shores^ 
about  6  or  8  leagues  in  breadth.  High  mountains,  prodigious  for- 
ests, full  of  aromatic  trees  and  plants,  and  many  pleasant  rivers  and 
streams  diversify  this  country,  which  by  the  Hindoos  is  esteemed 
a  seco'.id  paradise.  The  vales  are  of  a  rich  fat  soil ;  and,  when 
cleared,  amazingly  fertile  in  rice,  and  other  useful  vegetables. 

Proaiictionii.  Ceylon  is  chicfiy  distinguished  for  its  spices.  The 
groves  of  cinnamon  are  sometimes  a  mile  in  length.  The  soil  is 
very  sandy,  and  in  this  respect  favorable  to  the  growth  of  the  cin- 
namon trees. 

Rivcm.  There  are  5  considerable  rivers  described  by  Ptolemy  ; 
of  which  the  chief  is  the  Morvil  Ganga,  on  which  stood  Maagra- 
mvim,  the  capital  in  his  time,  and  modern  KanJi  stands  on  the  same 
stream,  one  of  the  royal  palaces  being  on  an  isle  in  that  river,  where 
the  monarch  keeps  a  treasure  of  i>ems  ;  and  his  officers,  like  those 
of  exterior  India,  are  decorated  with  slight  chains  of  gold. 

Mounrains.     The  chain  or  chains   of  mountains  run  N.  and  $. 
What  the  Mahometans  have  termed  Jdaui's  Peak  is  esteemed  the 
highest  ;  Boodh  is  fabled  to  have  ascended  from  it  to  heaven. 
•  Thunberg,  iv.  175.  f  Thunbsrg,  ir.  1 95,  23 1 .         ^Tlmaberg',  i?.  194. 

74 


585-  PERSIA: 

Mineralogy.  Ceylon,  rich  in  every  department  of  natural  histo-- 
ry,  presents  many  minerals  of  uncommon  beauty.  Not  to  mention 
iron,  i^oid,  plumbago,  8iC.  Thunberg  iias  given  a  list  of  the  pi  ecious 
stones,  among  which  are  the  genuine  ruby,  sapphire,  and  top^z. 
The  finest  rock  crystals,  both  the  colorless,  and  those  of  a  violet 
color,  calkd  amethysts,  are  found  here  in  abundance,  and  are  gen- 
eially  dark  brown  or  yellowish  ;  vf bile  those  of  other  colors  come 
from  Brazil  and  Tyrol.  It  is  also  asserted  that  this  island  produces 
the  genuine  emerald.  The  cat's  eye  seems  the  charatterisuc  min- 
eral of  Ceylon,  as  the  noble  or  genuine  opal  is  of  Huiigary. 

Pearls.  The  pearl  fisliery  commonly  begins  on  the  N-  W  shore 
about  the  middle  of  February,  and  continues  till  about  the  middle 
of  April,  when  the  S.  W.  monsoon  commenc  s.* 

Othtr  Isles.  The  INIaldives  form  an  oblong  inclosure  of  small 
low  regular  isles,  around  a  clear  space  of  sea  with  very  shallovr 
water  between  each.  They  are  governed  by  a  chief  called  ^toll, 
and  the  trade  is  in  cowrie  shells,  with  cocoa  nuts  and  fish.  .The 
Lucadive  islands  form  a  more  extended  group,  though  only  30  in- 
number.  They  also  trade  in  cocoa  nuts  and  fish  ;  and  ambergris 
is  often  found  floating  in  the  vicinity. 

Goa  is  a  small  fertile  island,  8  leatjucs  in  circumference,  N.  of  the 
Lacadlvfcs,  on  the  W.  coast  of  Hindostan,  lat.  15  30  N. 


PERSIA.t 

Divisions.  THIS  empire  seems  to  have  settled  into  2  division^*-- 
the  eastern  and  the  western  ;  while  the  provinces  near  the  Caspian^ 
secured  by  mountains  and  fastnesses,  have  asserted  a  kind  of  inde- 
pendence. 

Extent.  Persia^  lies  between  25"  and  44°  N.  lat.  and  between 
44°  and  ro"*  E.  Ion.  Its  length  from  E.  to  W.  is  1350  miles.  Its 
con.mon  breadth  from  N.  to  S.  about  900. 

Bcundaries.     On  the  N.  W.  by  Russian  Asia  and  the  Caspian  : 
on  the  iN.  E.  by  Independent  Tartary  :    on  the  E.  b;^  Hindostan  : 
on  the  S.  by  the  Arabian  sea:    on  the  S.  W.  by  the   Persian  gulf,^ 
fjid  for  a  small  e;:tent  by  Arabia ;    and  on  the  V/.  by  Turkey  in 
Asia. 

Persia  has,  on  almost  every  side  of  it,  a  space  of  3  or  4  days' 
journey  uninhabited,  though  the  soil  be,  in  many  places,  the  best 
in  the  world,  particularly  on  the  sides  of  the  east  and  the  west.^ 

Provinces.  1.  Georgia,  or  more  properly  Guigustan,  in  which 
may  be  included  Daghistan  and  Shirvan.  2.  Erivan,  a  large  por- 
tion of  ancient  Armenia.  3.  Aderbijan.  4.  Ghilan,  on  the  Cas- 
pian sea.  5.  Ivlazendran,  encircled  on  the  south  by  a  lofty  branch 
of  the  Caucasian  chain.  6.  Irac  Ajcmi,  chiefly  corresponding  with 
the  ancient  Ecbatana.     In  the  south  of  this  province  is  Ispahan,  the 

♦  As.  Res.  V.  394.        f  From  Pinkerton's  Abridgement,  with  improvements.-^ 
^  HarcserV  Observ.  vcsl.iv.  p.  276. 


PERSIA.  58r 

ETYodem  capital  of'Persia.  7.  Chosistan,  extending  to  the  river  Ti- 
gris ;  the  capital.  Bussora,  or  Basea,  subject  to  tiie  Turks.  Tt.is 
piovince  corresponds  with  the  ancient  Susiana.  8  Persis,  or  Pt.r- 
isia  proper,  surrounded  with  mouniains  on  the  N.  the  W.  ihe  S. 
and  i>ii  the  E.  separated  by  a  desert  from  Kerman.  Pars  contains 
the  beuutilui  city  of  Shiiaz,  and  the  ruins  of  Persepolis.  9.  Ker- 
ynun.  10.  Laristan,  a  small  province  on  tliC  Persian  f;ulf, 
11.  Mekran,  extending  to  the  Indian  deserts.  12.  Segistan, 
another  wid&  frontier  province  towardsTndia.  13.  The  grand  and 
tcrniinating  division  of  modem  Persia  in  the  N.  E.  is  Corasan, 
boiHided  by  the  Gihon,  or  Oxns,  on  the  N.  E. 

Besides  these  provinces,  and  exclusive  of  Asiatic  Turkey  on  t!ie 
'W.  the  ancient  Persian  empire  comprised  Bactriana  or  Balk  ;  and 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Oxus,  Sot;diana,  or  the  country  on  liie  riv- 
er Sogod,  vk'hich  passes  by  moderi.  Samarcand. 

Historical  Efiochs.  1.  The  venerable  historical  records  contain- 
ed in  the  scriptui'es  attest  the  eaily  civilization  and  ancient  polity 
of  the  Egyptians.  The  first  seal  of  the  Persian  monarci  y  was 
probably  in  the  N.  E.  on  the  river  O.xus;  while  the  Assyrians  pos- 
sessed the  Euphrates  and  tlie  Tigris,  and  the  S.  W.  of  Persia. 

The  history  of  the  Assyrian  empire  begins  with  Ninus,  about 
2160  years  before  Christ,  who  is  said  to  have  formed  an  alliance 
with  the  king  of  Arabia,  and,  in  conjunction  with  him,  to  have  sub- 
dued all  Asia,  except  India  and  Bactriana  ;  that  is,  accoiding  to 
the  ancient  knov/ledge,  he  subdued  Asia  Minor  and  tlie  west  of 
Persia. 

2.  Zoroaster,  king  of  Bactriana,  is  said  to  have  been  contempo- 
rary with  Ninus,  and  to  have  hiventid  magic  ;  that  is,  he  was  a 
■wise  man,  who  could  produce  uncommon  effects  by  common 
causes.  But  the  history  of  thisP'erjiian  lavi/ giver  is  lost  in  remote 
antiquity. 

3.  Cyrus  founds  what  is  called  the  Persian  empire,  557  years 
before  the  Christian  era,  and  soon  after  takes  Babylon.  This  great 
event  may  be  said  only  to  have  disclosed  the  Persians  to  the  civil- 
ized nations  of  the  westvfor  the  native  Persian  histories  ascend  to 
Kayumarras,  great  grandson  of  Noah. 

4.  The  overthrow  of  the  fiist  Persian  empire  by  Alexander,  B. 
C.  328,  followed  by  the  Greek  monarchs  of  Syria,  and  the  Grecian 
kingdom  of  Bactriana,  of  whlcii  last  an  interesiing  history  has  been 
compiled  by  the  learned  Bayer.  It  commenced  about  248  years 
iaefore  Christ,  and  contained  several  satrapies,  among  v/hich  was 
Sogdiana. 

5.  The  Parthian  empire,  which  likewise  began  about  248  yeavs 
B.  C.  This  was  a  mere  revival  of  tne  Ptisian  empire,  under  anew 
name. 

6.  The  conquest  of  Persia,  by  the  Mahometans,  A.  D.  &ifi  The 
native  kingdom  was  revived  in  Corasan,  A.  D.  820  ;  and  after  sev» 
eral  revolutions  resumed  its  former  situation. 

7.  The  brief  conquest  by  the  Afgans,  1722  ;  and  consequent  ex- 
;tinction  of  the  house  of  Scti,  and  elevation  o:  Nadir,  surna-ned 
.Thamas  KouU  Khan,  A.  D.  1736.    This  ferocious  chief  was  bom 


58S  PERSIA. 

an  Corasan ;  and  after  a  reign  of  1 1  years  was  slain,  20th  June, 
1747,  near  the  city  of  Mt;3liid,  in  the  same  country. 

Nadir  Sliah  was  succeeded  by  his  nephew,  Adil,  who,  after  a 
transitory  reign,  was  followed  by  his  brother  Ibrahim.  Mean  while 
Timur  Shah  reip,ned  in  Cabul,  Candahar,  aud  the  Persian  provinces 
adjacent  to  Hindostan ;  and  availing  himseli'  of  the  confusion  in 
Persia,  he  besieged  Meschid,  which  he  took  after  a  blockade  of  S 
months. 

The  farthest  extent  of  this  monarchy  on  the  east  comprizes 
Cashmir,  which  was  probably  subdued  about  175-1.*  in  the  west, 
according  to  the  opinion  of  Rennell,t  it  CMtends  to  the  vicinity  of 
the  city  of  Tershiz,  or  Turshiz,  in  longitude  57'  E.  a  length  of 
about  900  miles.  The  province  of  Sindi,  at  the  mouth  of  the  In- 
dus, is  also  subject  to  Zemaun,  \mh  the  western  part  of  Moultan  ; 
but  the  remainder  on  the  east  bank  of  that  river,  and  the  wide  and 
fertile  province  of  Lahore,  are  possessed  by  the  Seiks,  a  warlike 
nation.  The  other  provinces  are  Kuttore,  Cabul,  Candahar,  and 
within  the  Persian  boundary  Segistan,  and  probably  Mckran,  with 
the  eastern  part  of  Corasan,  and  the  province  ot  Gaur,  the  media! 
breadth  being  probably  about  500  miles.  The  remainder  of  BaiH 
and  Great  Bucharia  belong  to  Independent  Tartary,  The  chief 
subjects  of  Zemaun  are  the  Afgans,  or  people  of  the  mountains 
between  Persia  and  Hindostan,  who  may  be  considered  as  the 
founders  of  the  eiTipire  ;  the  others  are  Hindoos,  Persians,  and  ^ 
few  Tartars. 

Heligion.  The  Persians  arc  Mahometans  of  the  sect  of  All  ; 
for  which  reason  the  Turks  who  follow  the  succession  of  Omar 
and  Abu  Bekr,  call  them  heretics.  Their  religion  is,  if  possible, 
in  some  things  iTiore  fantastical  and  sensual  than  that  of  the 
Turks  ;  but  in  many  points  it  is  mingled  with  some  Bramin  su- 
perstitions. 

The  Persian  guedres,  or  gaurs  pretend  to  be  the  disciples  and 
successors  of  the  ancient  magi,  the  followers  of  Zoroaster.  A  com- 
bustible ground,  about  10  miles  distant  from  Baku,  a  city  in  the 
north  of  Persia,  is  the  scene  of  the  guebres  devotion.  It  must  be 
admitted,  that  this  ground  is  impregnated  with  very  surprisiuf.;-  in- 
flammatory qualities,  and  contains  several  old  little  temples  ;  ix\ 
one  of  which  the  giiebres  pretend  to  preserve  the  sacred  Game  of 
the  universal  fiie  which  rises  from  the  end,  and  a  large  hollow  cane 
stuck  imtlie  ground,  resenjbling  a  lamp,  burning  with  very  pure 
spirits.  If  any  tube  be  inserted  in  the  ground,  and  the  top  ot  the 
ground  touched  with  a  coal,  a  flame  bursts  forth.  They  have  no. 
floors  ;  this  is  the  mode  of  their  iighling  their  rooms,  of  cooking 
their  victuals,  and  by  these  tubes,  piling  the  stones  over  them, 
they  burn  their  linne.  Their  springs,  pa;  tlculariy  on  the  isle  of 
Wetoy,  furnish  a  black  naphtha  in  great  quantities.  When  scat- 
tered on  the  sea  it  burns  ;  the  Hame  is  often  wafted  to  a  great  dis- 
tance. 

The  lyiahometans  are  the  declared  enemies  of  the  i'-awr^,  wha 

*  Forster,  ii.  14.  f  Page  152. 


PERSIA.  589 

were  banished  out  of  Persia  by  Shah  Abbas.     Their  sect  is  said 
to  be  numerous,  though  tolerated  in  very  few  places. 

The  long  wars  between  the  Persians  and  the  Romans,  seem 
early  to  have  driven  the  ancient  christians  into  Pc;rsia  and  the 
neighboring  countries.  Even  to  this  day,  many  sects  are  found 
that  evidently  have  Christianity  for  the  ground- work  of  their  re- 
ligion. Some  of  them,  called  souifecs,  who  are  a  kind  of  quict- 
ists,  sacrifice  their  passions  to  God,  and  profess  the  moral  duties. 
The  Sabean  christians  have,  in  their  religion,  a  mixture  of  Juda- 
ism and  Mahometanism  ;  and  are  numerous  towards  the  Persian 
gulf.  We  have  already  mentioned  the  Armenian  and  Georgian 
christians,  who  are  very  numerous  in  Persia.  The  present  race 
of  Persians  are  said  to  be  very  cool  in  the  doctrines  of  Mahomet, 
©wing  chiefly  to  their  late  wars  with  the  Turks. 

Government-  The  government  of  Persia,  is  despotic  ;  but  its 
administration  in  Eastern  Persia,  or  the  kingdom  of  Candahar,  is 
represented  as  mild. 

Population.  The  present  state  of  the  population  of  Persia  is 
reckoned  by  Hassel  at  22,000,000,  of  which  3,000,000  are  in  W. 
Persia,  and  19,000,000*  in  E.  Persia.  Pinkcrton  strangely  re- 
duces the  number  in  both  to  only  10,000,000. 

Pallas  states  that  Aga  Mamct  raised  an  army  in  W.  Persia  of 
70,000  men.  The  Afgans  who  are  a  brave  people,  arc  supposed 
by  Hassel,  able  to  raise  an  army  of  300,000  men  ;  and  Westeru 
Persia,  in  the  opinion  of  the  same  author,  can  raise  100,000  men. 

Revenues.  The  actual  revenues  of  Persia  it  is  impossible  to 
estimate.  The  monarch  of  Candahar  may  draw  from  his  various 
and  extensive  provinces  about  three  millions  sterling  ;  wliile  west- 
ern Persia  scarcely  supplies  two  millions. 

Manners  arid  Customs.  The  Persians  are  polite  and  hospitable  ; 
not  however  without  the  expectation  of  presents  in  return.  They 
seem  to  consider  themselves  as  more  wise  and  sagacious  than 
other  nations,  and  the  recent  commotions  have  imparted  a  taint  of 
cruelty  to  the  national  character. f  Of  a  sanguine  temperament, 
both  rich  and  poor  are  generally  gay  ;  and  immoderate  mirth  will 
succeed  the  most  violent  quarrels.  They  are  extremely  attached 
to  the  fair  sex,  and  to  wine.  The  general  complexion  is  fair, 
somewhat  tinged  with  olive  ;  but  those  in  the  south  about  Shiraz, 
of  Candahar,  and  the  provinces  towards  India,  arc  of  a  dark  brown. 
They  are  commonly  fat,  with  black  hair,  high  forehead,  aquiline 
nose,  full  cheeks,  and  a  large  chin,  the  form  of  the  countenance 
being  frequently  ov^l.  The  men  are  generally  strong  and  robust, 
and  inclined  to  martial  exercises,  but  they  are  particularly  subject 
to  disorders  of  the  eyes. 

Language.  The  language  of  Persia  is  perhaps  the  niost  cele- 
brated of  all  the  oriental  tongues,  for  strength,  beauty,  and  melo- 
dy. In  general,  tne  Persian  literature  approaches  nearer  to  the 
European,  in  solid  good  sense,  and  clearness  of  thought  and  cx- 
|5ression,  than  that  of  any  other  Asiatic  nation ;  as  tbe  language  ii= 

»  Olivier.  f  Decouv.  Russ.  ii,  276. 


6&0  PERSIA. 

self  has  been  long;  known  to  bear  a  strong  affinity  to  the  German, 
though  softened  by  the  long  usag^e  of  a  polished  people.  One  of 
"nhe  oldest  remains  of  Persian  literature  is  the  famous  Sha  Nama, 
or  history  of  kings,  a  long  heroic  poem  of  Ferdusi.  Sadi,  an  ex- 
cellent and  entertaining  moralist,  writes  in  prose,  mingled  with 
^erse,  like  several  of  the  Icelandic  Sagas. 

Hafiz  is  the  Anacreon  of  the  east,  and  his  tomb  is  venerated  in 
the  vicinity  of  Shiraz.  The  sciences  in  general  are  little  cultivat- 
ed by  the  Persians. 

The  Persian  language  is  spoken  at  all  the  Mussulman  courts  in 
India,  and  is  the  usual  language  of  judicial  proceedings  under  the 
British  govennnent  in  Hindostan.  It  is  next  in  importance  to  the 
Arabic  and  Chinese,  in  regard  to  the  extent  of  territory  through 
■which  it  is  spoken,  being  generally  understood  from  Calcutta  to 
■Damascus.* 

•Mducation.  The  education  of  the  modem  Persians  is  chiefly 
jmilitary. 

Cities.  The  capital  city  of  modern  Persia  is  Ispahan.  In- 
cluding the  suburbs,  its  circuit  is  computed  by  Chardinf  at  about 
124  miles,  and  the  inhabitants  at  600,000.  It  stands  on  the  small 
river  Zenderud,  M'hich  rises  in  the  mountains,  of  Yaibat,  three  days 
journey  towards  the  north  ;  but  Abas  the  great,  at  a  prodigious 
expense,  pierced  some  mountains,  about  30  leagues,  from  Ispahan, 
and  introtluced  another  stream,  so  that  the  Zenderud  was  as  large 
during  the  spring,  as  the  Seine  at  Paris  in  the  winter  ;  for  in  that 
season  the  melting  of  the  snows,  in  the  high  range  of  mountains, 
greatly  swelled  the  river.  The  walls  are  of  earth,  and  ill  repair- 
ed, with  eight  gates,  and  the  streets  narrow,  devious,  and  badly 
paved.  But  the  royal  square,  and  its  grand  market,  the  palace  of 
theSefi,and  thoseof  the  grandees,  the  mosques,  the  public  baths,  and 
other  edifices,  are  for  the  most  part  splendid.  The  suburb  of  lul- 
fa,  or  Yulfa,  is  very  large,  and  possessed  by  the  Armenians.  The 
environs  of  Ispahan  are  pleasant,  and,  like  most  other  Persian  towns 
j;nd  cities,  diversified  by  the  neighborhood  of  mountains.  This 
capital,  aftev  the  visit  of  Chardin,  was  greatly  reduced,  so  that  ai 
Persian  merchant  asserted  to  Mr.  Hanway,  that  not  above  5000 
houses  were  inhabited,  having  been  taken  and  plundered  by  the 
Afgans,  in  1722. 

The  second  city,  at  least  in  fame,  is  Shiraz,  which  has  been  re- 
cently visited  and  described.  This  capital  of  Farsistan,  or  Persia, 
is  situated  in  a  fertile  valley,  about  26  miles  in  length,  and  12  in 
breadth,  bounded  on  all  sides  by  lofty  mountainsf;^  the  circuit  of  the 
city  is  about  4  miles,  surrounded  with  a  wall  2'ii'  feet  high,  and  10 
thick,  with  round  towers  at  the  distance  of  80  paces.  The  citadel 
is  built  of  brick ;  and  before  it  is  a  great  square,  with  a  park  of 
miserable  artillery.  The  mosque  of  the  late  Kerim  is  splendid  but 
unfinislied.  The  tomb  of  Hafiz  is  on  the  N.  E.  side,  about  2  miles 
distant  from  the  v/alls,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  in  the  same 
direction,  is  the  tomb  of  Sadi,  with  a  remarkable  channel  for  water 
..followed  in  the  rock. 

*  Buchantian's  Researches.  |  Chardin,  torn.  iiJ. 


PETISIA.  39t 

TefiTiz,  the  capital  of  Georgia,  is  a  large  and  populous  town,  bet 
meanly  built,  rising  from  the  river  Kur  along  the  side  of  a  hill.* 
There  are  fine  springs  of  hot  water,  a  favorite  resort  of  the  inhab- 
itants. The  chief  trade  is  in  furs,  sent  to  Turkey  and  the  souib  of 
Persia.  The  present  circuit  is  about  2  miles,  and  it  is  supposed  to 
contain  20,000  inhabitants,  more  than  half  being  Armenians-t  Dur- 
ing the  late  confusion  in  Persia,  Grorgia  has  eflfccted  at  least  a 
temporary  independence,  supported  by  Russia. 

Derbent  was  formerly  a  place  of  noted  strength  on  the  Caspian 
sea,  but  was  taken  by  Peter  the  Great  of  Russia,  and  afterwaixis 
by  Catharine  II.  in  1780.  Ginelin  visited  this  ciiy  a  few  years  be- 
fore, and  describes  it  as  situated  on  the  side  of  a  mountain,  extend- 
ing almost  to  the  sea. 

Westward  on  the  Turkish  frontier,  stands  the  city  of  Erivan,of 
considerable  extent,  and  the  capital  of  Persian  Armenia,  but  the 
houses  are  meanly  built,  like  most  of  tiiose  in  Persia,!  Provision* 
are  plentiful,  and  good  wine  is  produced  in  the  neiglil^orhood.  Af- 
ter repeated  contests  with  the  Turks,  the  Persians  have  remained 
masters  of  Erivan  since  1635.  Not  far  to  the  S.  W.  is  the  celebrat- 
ed Armenian  monastery  of  the  3  churches  :  and  the  noted  inount 
Ararat,  on  which  Noak's  ark  rested,  which  may  be  regarded  as  a 
kind  of  frontier  between  the  Turkish  and  Persian  dominions,  rises 
about  30  miles  to  the  south  of  Erivan.  The  summit  is  inaccessilbleo 

The  province  of  Aderbijan  contains  few  places  of  note,  except 
Tebriz,  or  Tauriz,  a  considerable  city,  which  was  however  greaiij 
injured  by  an  earthquake  the  beginning  of  the  last  century. 

The  Caspian  provinces  of  Ghilan  and  Mazendran  present  ttlieir 
capitals,  Rnsht  and  Sari.  The  former,  though  the  residence  of  aa 
independent  Khan,  has  neither  walls  nor  gates,  but  is  tlae  &eat  of 
considerable  commerce,  and  the  number  of  houses  may  amount  Jo 
2000.  Sari,  the  residence  of  the  Khans  of  Mazendran,  is  of  saaail 
account,  when  compared  with  Aschi^aff,  a  favorite  residence  of  Alsas 
the  Great ;  its  splendid  palaces  and  gardens  have  become  destsiate 
since  the  commotions  that  follov/ed  the  death  of  Nadir. 

On  returning  towards  the  S.  W.  appears  Bistan,  a  small  city  ©a 
the  north  of  the  great  salt  desert,  rarely  visited  by  travellers;  and 
W.  Chover  or  Khaver,  with  a  pass  of  the  same  name,  through  a 
branch  of  the  Caucasian  mountains  of  Mazendran,  which  is  prefer- 
red to  the  passage  through  the  desert.  Kom,  or  Khums,  v/as  visit- 
ed by  Chardin,  who  in  travelling  from  Sava  p-assed  a  wide  plaiuj 
with  a  hill  in  the  nnddle,  called  the  mountain  of  the  Talifman.  lie 
represents  Kom  as  a  considerable  city,  at  the  foot  of  high  moun- 
tains, and  near  a  river,  which  is  lost  in  the  great  salt  desert.  The 
houses  were  computed  at  1 5,000  ;  and  the  chief  manufactures  wtj-e 
white  earthen  ware,  soap,  and  sword  blades.  Here  are  the  supi;'!^ 
tombs  of  Sefi  I.  and  Abas  II. 

On  the  coast  between  Ormus  and  Kishmish,  or  Kishma,  isGoru- 
broon.  The  trade,  once  considerable,  is  now  greatly  declined  i 
and  even  the  Dutch  left  it,  and  settled  in  the  isle  of  Karek  or  G..- 

•  Tournefort,  ii.  ^S5:        f  Ellis,  Memoir,  )p.  49.  i  Tourncf»rt,  ii.  2J.". 


592  PERSIA. 

rak.     The  French  Indian  commerce  has  failed  ;  and  the  English 

staple  is  Biissora. 

In  passing  to  the  eastern  division,  or  kingdom  of  Candahar,  Ca- 
bul,  the  metropolis,  is  situated  within  the  limits  of  Hindostan  ;  but 
Candahar  is  by  D'Anville  and  others  ascribed  to  Persia,  being  how- 
ever a  city  of  small  size,  and  chiefly  memorable  as  the  grand  pas- 
sag'j  between  these  extensive  empires. 

The  dominion  of  Zeinaun  SImh  comprises  a  considerable  portion 
of  Corasan.  The  city  of  Herat  stands  on  a  spacious  plain,  uiter- 
secied  with  many  rivulets,  which,  with  the  bridges,  villages,  and 
plantations,  delight  the  traveller,  fatigued  in  passing  the  eastern 
deserts  of  Afganistan,  or  the  country  of  the  Afgans. 

Maiivfaclures  a>Td  Commerce.  The  manufactures  and  commerce 
of  this  great  country  may  be  said  to  be  annihilated,  though  a  few 
carpets  still  reach  Europe  at  extravagant  prices.  Even  the  trade 
•with  the  Russians  on  the  Caspian  is  of  small  account,  consisting  of 
salt  and  naphtha  from  Baku,  and  some  silk  from  Shirvan,  called  by 
the  Russians  Sliainakia,  but  chiefly  from  Ghilan,  where  there  is  a 
Russian  consul  at  Enseli  or  Sinsili.  The  Persian  merchants  also 
bring  goods  to  Balfrush,  the  largest  town  in  Mazendran,  where 
they  trade  with  those  of  Russia. 

Climate.  The  northern  provinces  on  the  Caspian,  are  compara- 
tively cold  and  moist  ;  the  exhalations  from  that  sea  being  arrest- 
ed bv  the  mountains  to  the  south  of  Mazendran.  In  the  centre  of 
the  kingdom  Chardin  observes  that  the  winter  begins  in  Novem- 
ber, and  continues  till  March,  commonly  severe,  with  ice  and  snow. 
From  March  to  May  high  winds  are  frequent ;  but  thence  to  Sep- 
tember the  air  is  serene,  refreshed  by  breezes  in  the  night.  From 
September  to  November  the  winds  again  prevail.  In  the  centre 
and  south  the  air  is  generally  dry,  thunder  or  lightning  are  uncom- 
mon, but  hail  is  often  destructive  in  the  spring.  Near  the  Persian 
gulf  the  hot  wind  called  Samiel  sometimes  suffocates  the  unwary 
traveller. 

Face  of  the  Country.  Persia  may  be  called  a  country  of  moun- 
tains ;  and  wliere  great  plauis  occur  they  are  generally  desert. 
The  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  country  is  the  want  of  rivers  ; 
in  which  respect  it  yields  to  all  the  Asiatic  regions,  save  Arabia. 

Soil  and  yJg-riculture.  The  soil  is  not  fertile,  and  even  the  valleys 
are  sometimes  sandy  and  stony,  or  of  a  hard  dry  clay  ;  both  unpro- 
ductive, if  not  well  watered.  Hence  the  chief  industry  of  the  Per- 
sian farmer  is  employed  in  watering  his  lands.  These  remarks 
however  must  be  restricted  to  the  central  and  southern  provinces  ; 
for  those  in  the  north  are  sufficiently  rich  and  fertile. 

The  most  common  grain  of  Persia  is  wheat,  which  is  excellent ; 
but  rice  is  a  more  universal  aliment,  and  regarded  by  the  Persians 
as  the  most  delicious  of  food*  It  is  generally  produced  in  the 
northern  or  best  watered  provinces.  Barley  and  millet  are  also 
sown.  The  plough  is  small,  and  the  ground  merely  scratched. 
After  which  the  spade  is  also  used,  to  form  the  ground  into  squares, 

*  Chardin,  iv.  222. 


PERSIA.  5.9J 

Ajolth  ledges  or  little  banks  to  retain  the  water.  The  clung  is  chiefly 
Juiman  and  that  of  pigeons  mingled  with  earth,  and  preserved  for  2 
years  to  abate  its  heat. 

Rivers.  The  noble  streams  of  the  Euphrates  and  the  Tigris  caa 
scarcely  at  any  period  be  considered  as  stricily  Persian,  though 
Ctesiplion,  the  capital  of  the  Parthian  monarchy,  and  Seleucia, 
stood  on  the  latter  river.  The  river  of  Ahwaz  rises  in  the  moun- 
tains of  Elvvend,  and  pursues  a  southern  course  till  one  branch  en- 
ters the  Tigris  above  its  junction  with  the  Euphrates,  while  the 
main  stream  flows  into  the  estuary  of  these  conjunct  rivers.  The 
course  of  this  stream,  one  of  the  most  considerable  in  Persia,  little 
exceeds  400  miles. 

In  the  N.  E.  is  the  large  river  of  Gihon,  better  styled  Amu.  To 
the  W.  the  river  of  Tedjcn  or  Tedyen,  the  ancient  Ochus,  flows 
into  the  Caspian. 

Farther  to  the  N.  the  large  river  Aras,  the  ancient  Araxes,  fall* 
into  the  Kur  or  Cyrus,  both  rising  in  the  Caucasian  mountains,  and 
pursuing  a  very  rapid  course,  Tne  Kur  abounds  with  sturgeon 
and  other  large  fish. 

The  central  rivers  of  Persia,  most  of  which  are  soon  lost  in  sandy 
deserts,  are  the  Zenderud,  which  passes  by  Ispahan,  beyond  which 
capital  its  course  is  soun  lost  in  the  sand.  But  the  most  important 
river  in  this  qu.irter  is  that  which  passes  betvveen  Shiraz  and  Ista- 
kar,  or  the  celebrated  ruins  of  Pcrsepolis,  called  the  Bundamir, 
and  supposed  to  be  an  ancient  Araxes.  This  celebrated  river  flows 
into  a  salt  lake  called  Baktegan.  The  largest  and  most  remarkable 
inland  river  is  the  Hinmend,  of  the  province  of  Segistan,  which 
pursues  a  westerly  course,  and,  according  to  the  account  of  Otter,* 
divides  into  many  branches,  which  are  lost  in  the  central  deserts  of 
Persia.  Our  geographers,  on  the  contrary,  suppose  that  the  Hin- 
mend passes  by  Zarang  into  the  sea  of  Zereh. 

Lakes.  Among  the  lakes  of  Persia,  the  most  considerable  be- 
yond all  comparison  is  the  Aria  Palus  of  antiquity,  in  the  western 
part  of  the  province  of  Segistan,  called  in  the  French  maps  the 
lake  of  Zere,  in  the  English,  the- sea  of  Durra  ;  the  length  is  thirty 
leagues  by  a  day's  journey  in  breadth  ;  and  the  water  is  fresh  and 
full  of  fish. 

The  salt  lake  of  Baktegan,  about  50  miles  east  of  Shiraz,  receives 
the  rivers  of  Kuren  and  Bundamir.  It  is  represented  in  the  maps 
as  about  40  miles  in  length,  and  the  breadth  about  10. 

Far  to  the  N.  Vv'.  appears  the  large  lake  of  Urmia,  so  called 
from  a  town  near  its  southern  extremity.  This  lake  is  represented 
as  about  .50  miles  in  length,  by  about  half  the  breadth,  and  is  said 
to  be  considerably  impregnated  with  salt,  and  the  neighboring 
mountains  were  remarkable  as  the  seats  of  the  assassins.  Tiie 
lake  of  Erivan,  about  120  miles  to  the  N.  is  about  25  leagues  iu 
circumference,  with  a  small  isle  in  the  middle  :  it  abounds  in  carp 
and  trout ;  and  is  the  Lychniles  of  Ptolemy  f 

*  Voyage  en  Turkic  et  en  Perse.    Paris,  1748,  2  Tols.  12wio.  tome  i,  217. 
^Chardin.ii.  222.     Tournef.  a.  256. 
75 


594  PERSIA. 

Mountains.  The  Caucasian  ridsje  extends  to  the  west  of  Ghi- 
lan  and  south  of  Muzendran,  till  it  expires  in  Corasan,  on  the  S.  E. 
of  the  Caspian  sea. 

The  southernmost  chain  of  great  height  is  described  by  Mr, 
Franklin  as  running  parallel  with  the  Persian  gulph  N.  W.  and  S* 
E.  at  about  the  distance  of  50  miles. 

A  third  range  of  mountains,  of  very  great  height,  seems  to  con-  ' 
lihue  in  the  same  directioii  with  tnis  last,  to  the  S.  of  the  lake  of 
Urmia,  where  it  is  connected  with  the  Caucasian  vidge.     This  is 
the  grandest  range  of  mouniains  in  Persia. 

Mount  Ararat  is  rt  presented  as  standing  solitary  in  the  midst  of 
a  wide  plain,  and  from  pn^ximiiy  may  be  classed  witli  the  range  ot" 
Caucasus. 

Deserts.  On  the  east  of  Tii!;ris,  lat.  53°,  a  considerable  desert 
commences,  whicii  is  pervadtd  t>y  the  river  ot  Ashwaz,  and  ex- 
tends to  the  N.  of  Skuster.  Ttus  ot  sert  may  be  about  140  miles  in 
length,  from  E.  to  W.  and  the  breadth  about  80.  It  is  now  chiefly 
possessed  by  the  wandering'  tribe  of  Ai'abs,  called  Beni  Kiab,  a 
people,  who,  like  the  desert,  are  not  a  little  obscm-e.* 

The  Great  Saline  Desert  extends  from  the  neighborhood  of 
Kom,  to  that  of  the  sea  of  Zurra,  in  a  line  from  E.  to  W.  of  about 
400  miles  :  the  breadth  from  N.  to  S.  may  be  250;  but  in  the  lat- 
ter quarter  it  may  be  said  to  join  with  the  great  desert  of  Kerman, 
by  the  Is'auben  Dejian,  which  extends  about  350  miles.  These 
two  exten&ive  deseris  may  thus  be  considered  as  stretching  N.  W- 
and  S.  E.  for  a  space  of  about  700  miles,  by  a  medial  breadth  of 
about  200  (even  not  including  in  the  length  other  200  miles  of  the 
desert  of  Mekran)  ;  thus  intersecting  this  wide  empu-e  into  two 
nearly  equal  portions,  as  before  explained  This  vast  extent  is  im-' 
pregnated  with  nitre  and  other  salts,  which  taint  the  neighboring 
lakes  and  rivers  ;  but  its  natural  history  has  not  been  investigated 
with  the  precision  of  modern  knowledge.  In  the  S.  of  Mekran,  and 
towards  the  Indus,  are  other  deserts  of  great  extent. 

A  third  great  desert,  that  of  Kai  akum,  or  the  Black  Sand,  form&" 
the  northern  boundary  of  Corasan  and  modern  Persia ;  but  the  de- 
sciiption  more  properly  belongs  to  Tartary. 

Minei'alogy.  Persia  produces  lead,  iion,  which  is  harsh  and- 
brittle,  copper,  of  an  inferior  kind,  and  turkoise,  a  precious  stone 
Pearls  abound  in  the  Persian  gulf,  especially  near  tlie  isles  of  Bali- 
rin  on  the  Arabian  side.  Some  will  weigh  50  grains  ;  but  those 
are  esteemed  large,  which  weigh  fiom  10  to  12  grains. 

Chardhi  adds  that  sulphur  and  nitie  are  found  in  the  mountain  of 
Demavend.  Sometimes  whole  deserts  are  covered  with  sulphur, 
and  others  with  salt,  which  near  Cashan  is  remarkably  pure.  Kock- 
salt  is  found  n  ar  Ispahan  ;  and  in  the  dry  tlimaie  oi  Kerraan  it  i& 
even  employed  in  building. 

J\''atural  Curiosities.  Among  the  chief  natural  curiosities  must 
be  named  the  fountains  of  naphtha,  or  pure  rock  oil,  m  the  neigh- 


•  See  Nicbuhr ;  but  this  tribe  seems  rather  to  the  S,  of  the  desert. 


INDEPENDENT  TARTARY.  S95 

feorhood  of  Baku,  on  the  western  coast  of  the  Caspian,  particularly 
in  the  acjjoiuiiijj  prornoiiluiy  of  Aslibtion.  (See  article  Religiun.^ 
Isles.  1  tic  ttw  Persian  ibics  in  the  southern  gulf,  among  which 
the  most  reniui'liabie  are  Orniuz,  once  famous,  now  abandoned  ; 
Kishma  ;  and,  towards  the  otncr  extremity,  Karck.  from  which  the 
Dutch  w>.:re  expelled  in  1766,  do  not  m*.  rit  a  particulai  description 
in  a  work  ol  tnis  nature  ;  and  far  less  ino&e  in  the  Caspian  S9a,  thes 
ciiief  ot  which  are  on  the  coast  of  the  Uzbeks. 


INDEPENDENT  TARTARY. 

THE  descriptions  already  given  in  this  volume  of  Asiatic  Russia 

•and   the  Chinese  empire,  comprise  the  far  greater   part  of  what 

gto^raphers  denomnrated  Tarlary,  by  a  vague  term  applied  to  a 

country  excetdiiig  all  Europe  in  extent,  and  possessed  by  various 

and  dibiiuct  nations  and  races  of  men. 

By  rt.ptatcd  victories  over  the  Eluts  and  Kalmuks  of  Mongolia, 
the  Cliiuese  dominion  has  been  extended  to  the  mountains  of  Be- 
lur,  thus  inciuuint»  Little  Bucharia  ;  while  in  the  E.  Mandshnria 
remained  suDJect  to  its  sovereigns,  who  had  become  emperors  of 
China. 

hxtent.  The  extent  of  territory  possessed  by  these  tribes  may 
be  measured  from  the  Caspian  sea  to  the  mountains  of  Belur,  a 
space  ol  not  less  than  870  miles.  From  the  mountains  of  Gaur,  in 
the  south,  to  the  Russian  boundaries,  on  the  north  of  the  desert  of 
Issim,  may  be  near  1 500  miles  ;  but  of  this  length  a  great  part  is 
desert. 

Divisions.  The  chief  divisions  are  the  wide  stepps  or  barren 
plains  in  the  N.  held  by  3  hordes  of  Kirguses,  the  Great,  Middle, 
and  Lesser  ;  with  some  small  Partanc  tribes  near  the  sea  of  Aral. 

Toiarm.  The  chief  towns  are  Cashgar  and  Yarcand,  followed 
■towards  the  N;  E.  by  Axu  or  Aksu  ;.  Chialish,  also  called  Yulduz, 
and  by  tlie  Turks  Karashar  or  the  black  city  ;  and  Turfan.  Hami 
«r  Camil,  with  its  surrounding  villages,  i^  rather  considered  as  a 
detached  province,  for  some  ages  under  the  protection  of  China. 

Religion.     The  prevailing  religion  is  the  Mahometan. 

Pofiulaiion,  isfc.  The  population  is  not  known,  but  cannot  be 
-extensive,  and  is  supposed  chiefly  to  consist  of  original  Bucharians, 
■who  are  described  as  of  a  swarthy  conaplexion,  though  some  be 
■very  fair,  and  of  elegant  forms.  They  are  said  to  be  polite  and 
benevolent,  and  their  language  is  the  Turkish,  that  having  sup- 
planted their  native  tongue.  The  houses  are  generally  of  stone, 
<dccorated  with  some  Chinese  articles.  They  are  cleanly  in  their 
food. 

Kirguses.  About  one  half  of  Independent  Tartary  is  occupied 
by  the  Kirguses  in  the  north,  a  people  of  undoubted  Tartaric  ori- 
gin, and  the  Uzbeks  in  the  south. 

The  Kirguses  have  from  time  immemorial  been  here  classed 
;  under  3  divisions  of  Great,  Middle,  and  Lesser.     They  are  consid- 


35fi  INDEPENDENT  TARTARY. 

(pred  as  faithless,  pusillanimous, yet  restless  j  but  the  Great  Hord^st 
defended  by  mountains  on  the  S.  and  E.  asserted  their  indepen^ 
dence  in  repeated  contests  with  the  Kalmuks  of  Soongaria.  The 
Middle  and  Little  Hordes  have  acknowledged  the  Russian  sovereign- 
ty since  1731  ;  but  this  subjection  is  merely  nominal,  for  the  Rus- 
sians are  obliged  to  fortify  themselves  against  ihese  allies.  These 
two  hordes  are  each  estimated  at  50,000  families  ;  and  supposing 
the  Great  Horde  to  contain  60,000,  and  each  family  6  persons,  the 
population  of  this  wide  region  would  amount  to  720,000  ;  but  it 
probably  does  not  exceed  half  a  million. 

They  have  horses,  camels,  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats.  It  was  as- 
serted that  some  individuals  in  the  Middle  horde  had  1 0,000 horses> 
300  camels,  3.  or  4000  cattle,  20,000  sheep,  and  more  than  2000 
goats  :  while  in  the  Lesser  horde,  were  proprietors  of  5000  horses, 
and  a  proportional  number  of  the  other  animials.  Their  dromeda- 
ries furnished  a  considerable  quantity  of  woolly  hair,  which  was 
sold  to  the  Russians  and  Bucharian,s,  being  annually  clipped  like 
that  of  sheep.  Their  chief  food  is  mutton,  of  the  large  tailed  sort ; 
and  so  exquisite  is  the  lamb,  that  it  is  sent  from  Orenburg  to  Pe= 
tersburg,  for  the  tables  of  the  palace.  The  lamb  skins  are  the  most 
celebrated  after  those  of  Bucharia,  being  damasked,  as  it  were  by 
clothing  the  little  animal  in  coarse  linen.  But  the  wool  of  the  sheep 
Is  coarse,  and  only  used  in  domestic  consumption  for  felts  and 
thick  cloths.  The  stepps  supply  them  with  objects  of  the  chace, 
wolves,  foxes,,  badgers,  antelopes,  ermines,  weasels,  marmots,  &c» 
In  the  southern  and  eastern  mountains  are  found  wild  sheep,  the 
ox  of  Tibet,  which  seems  to  delight  in  snowy  alps  ;  with  chamoisy 
chacals,  tigers,  and  wild  asses.* 

Trade.  The  Xirgusians  carry  on  some  trade  with  Russia.  The 
chief  traffic,  which  is  wholly  by  exchange,  is  at  Orenburg,  but  the 
iVIiddle  horde  proceed  to  Omsk.  Sheep,  to  the  amount  of  150,000, 
are  annually  brought  to  Orenburg  ;  with  horses,  cattle,  lamb  skinsj 
camel's  wool,  and  camlets  ;  sometimes  they  offer  slaves,  PersianSj, 
or  Turcomans.  In  return  they  take  manufactured  articles,  chiefly 
clothes  and  furniture. 

Kharism.  The  country  of  this  name  extends  from  the  Gihon,  or 
Amu.  to  the  Caspian  sea,  bounded  on  th-e  N.  and  S.  by  wide  de- 
serts, the  chitf  town  being  now  Khiva,  but  anciently  Urghenz. 
This  country  is  about  350  miles  in  length  and  breadth. 

Tlic  khan  is  absQiiiie,  and  entirely  independent  of  any  other 
power,  except  the  MuUa  Bashi,  or  high  priest,  by  whom  he  is  con- 
trolled. The  mhabilaiits  differ  very  little  from  the  Kirguscs  ;  but 
surpass  them  in  cunnuig  and  treachery.  Hanway  informs  us  that 
the  town  of  Khiva  stands  on  a  rising  ground,  wilh  3  gates  and  a 
strong  wall  of  earth,  very  thick,  and  much  higher  than  the  houses  ; 
there  are  turrets  at  small  distances,  and  a  broad  deep  ditch,  full  of 
■water.  It  occupies  a  considerable  space,  and  commands  a  pleasant 
prospprt  of  the  adjacent  plains,  which  the  industry  of  the  inhabit- 
ants has  rendered  very  fertile ;  but  the  houses  are  low,  most); 
built  With  mud,  the  roofs  flat,  and  covered  with  earth, 

*  Dec,  Rass.  Mi.  396 


INDEPENDENT  TARTARY.  s9f 

Khiva  is  said  to  stand  at  the  distance  of  460  miles. from  the  Cas- 
pian sea,  and  from  Orenburij  nearly  twice  that  distance.  In  1739 
the  khan  of  Khiva  assembled  an  army  of  20,000,  to  oppose  Nadir  ; 
but  the  city  surrendered  at  discretion. 

Great  Bucharia.  By  far  the  most  important  part  of  Independent 
Tartary  is  comprised  under  the  name  ot  Great  Bucharia. 

Extent  and  Boundaries.  Great  Bucharia  extends  more  than  700 
miles  in  length,  from  N.  to  S.  by  a  medial  breadth  of  about  350, 
much  iiiferior  to  the  country  caiicd  Little  Buciiaria.  The  northern 
boundary  appears  to  be  the  niou.itains  of  Argun.  On  the  western 
side  a  desert,  the  river  Amu,  and  other  deserts,  divide  Bucharia 
from  Kluu'ism,  and  Corasan  :  while  on  the  S.  and  E.  the  mountains 
of  Gaur,  the  Hindoo  Koh,  and  the  chain  of  Bclur,  are  perpetual 
barriers. 

Religion,  Pofiulaliun,  isfc.  The  religion  of  the  Uzbeks  and  Bu- 
chariaiib  is  tht  Maiiomctan,  of  the  Sunni  sect,  and  the  government 
(of  the  khans  is  despotic.  There  is  no  precise  evidence  of  the  slate 
pf  the  population,  which  consists  of  the  Tartars  and  of  the  Bucha- 
nans. It  is  probable,  that  upon  an  emergency,  an  army  might  be 
mustered  of  1 00,000. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  manners  and  customs  of  the  Uz- 
beks are  similar  to  those  of  the  other  Tartars  :  but  they  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  most  spirited  and  industrious  of  these  barbarians. 
The  language  of  the  Bucharians  has  never  been  investigated, 
though  it  be  probably  Persian,  like  their  physiognomy,  but  inter- 
mingled with  Turkish,  Mongolian,  and  even  Hindoo  terms.  The 
literature  of  Great  Bucharia  would  furnish  an  ample  theme,  Sa- 
marcand  having  been  a  celebrated  school  of  oriental  science,  culti- 
vated even  by  monarchs,  as  Uiug  Beg,  and  others  :  it  was  still,  in 
the  beginning  of  last  century,  the  most  celebrated  of  Mahometan 
universities.* 

Cities.  The  chief  cily  of  Great  Bucharia  is  Samarcand,  on  the 
southern  bank  of  the  river  Sogd.  Of  this  celebrated  capital  there 
is  no  recent  account,  but  it  seems  greatly  to  have  declined  since  the 
lime  of  Timur.  About  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  Bentink 
says  that  Samarcand  was  fortified  with  ramparts  of  turf,  tlie  househ 
being  mostly  of  hardened  clay,  though  some  were  of  stone,  from 
quarries  in  the  neighborhood.  The  rich  vale  of  Sogd  produced 
such  abundance  of  exquisite  grapes,  melons,  pears,  and  apples, 
that  they  were  sent  to  Persia,  and  even  to  Pliridosian. 

Bokhara,  on  the  same  river,  has  repeatedly  contested  the  metro- 
politan dignity  with  Samarcand.  When  visited  by  the  Eni^iish 
agents,  in  1741,itv/asa  large  and  populous  city,  bui)ject  to  its 
khan  ;  standing  on  a  rising  ground,  with  a  slender  wall  ol  earth  ; 
the  houses  of  clay,  but  the  numerous  mosques  of  brick.f  The  ( iii- 
zens  manufactured  soap  and  calico ;  and  the  chief  products  wtrc 
cotton,  rice,  and  cattle.  From  the  Kalmuks  they  received  rhubarb 
and  musk  ;  and  from  Badakshan,  the  capital  of  a  country  so  called, 
ihey  used  to  receive  lapis  lazuli,  and  other  precious  stones  j    that 

*  Bentink  on  Abulgazi,  p.  279.  f  Haaway,  i.  242. 


5^8  INDEPENDENT  TARTARY. 

f  iiy  beinc;  computed  at  16  days' journey  from  Bokbara.  There 
was  goiJ  and  cupper  coin  :  and  alter  Nadir  took  this  city,  the  Per- 
sian and  Indian  silver  became  common.  In  the  tenth  century  it 
was  dislins::;uis!icd  by  the  manufacture  of  fine  linen. 

Balk  is  a  distinguished  city  on  the  river  Dehash,  which  flows  in- 
to the  Amu. 

Climute.  The  climate  in  general  appears  to  be  excellent,  the 
heat  even  of  the  southern  provinces  being  tempered  by  the  high 
mountains  capped  with  perpetual  snow  ;  and  though  situated  in  the 
p'Arailel  of  Spam,  Greece,  and  Asiatic  Turkey,  the  proximity  of  the 
Sibf  rian  dcst  rts,  atid  the  lofty  Alps,  render  the  summer  more  tem- 
perate. Near  the  rivers  the  soil  is  very  productive,  so  that  the 
grsss  sometimes  exceeds  the  height  of  a  man  ;  and  in  some  parts 
considerable  industry  is  shewn  in  the  cultivation  of  rice  and  other 
grain.  In  any  other  hands  but  those  of  the 'Tartars,  this  country 
might  rival  any  European  region. 

Rivers.  Tlie  chief  rivers  of  Independent  Tartaiy  are  the  Amu 
and  the  Sirr,  or  Shash. 

Lakes.  The  most  considerable  is  what  is  called  the  sea  of  Aral, 
.  or  of  eagles,  already  mentioned  in  the  general  view  of  Asia. 

Mou7itains.  The  principal  range  of  mountains  is  that  of  Belur, 
which,  according  to  ail  accounts,  is  a  great  alpine  chain,  covered 
with  perpetual  snow. 

3fineralogy.  The  alpine  heights  in  the  S.  E.  contain  gold,  sil- 
ver, and  a  peculiar  production,  the  balay,  or  pale  rose-colored  ru- 
Isy,  lapis  lazuli,  sal  ammoniac,  vitriol,  iit<n,  copper,*  turkoises,  and 
-quicksilver.  In  the  mountain  of  Zarka  there  were  springs  of  naph- 
tha and  bitumen.  The  venerable  father  of  Arabian  geography, 
Ebn  Haukal,  has  given  an  animated  character  of  this  country  and 
its  people,  whicli  we  here  introduce. 

"  Such  are  the  generosity  and  liberality  of  the  inhabitants,  that 
no  one  turns  aside  from  the  rights  of  hospitality  ;  so  that  a  person 
contemplating  them  in  this  light,  would  imagine  that  all  the  /ami" 
lies  of  the  land  were  but  one  house.  When  a  traveller  arrives  there 
every  person  endeavoi  s  to  attract  him  to  himself,  that  he  may  have 
ypportunilics  ot  pciforming  kind  offices  for  the  stranger  :  and  the 
best  proof  of  their  hospitable  and  generous  disposition  is,  that  every 
peasai.t,  though  possessing  but  a  bare  sufficiency,  allots  a  portion 
<9f  his.  cottage  for  the  reception  of  a  guest.  On  the  arrival  ot  a 
stranger  tliey  contend  one  with  another  for  the  pleasure  of  taking 
him  to  their  home,  and  entertaining  him.  Thus,  in  acts  of  hospi- 
tality, they  expend  their  incomes.  I  happened  once  to  be  in  Sogd, 
.'Uid  there  I  saw  a  certain  palace,  or  great  building,  the  doors  of 
which  were  fastened  back  with  nails  against  the  walls.  I  asked  the 
reason  of  this,  and  they  informed  me  that  it  was  an  hundred  years 
and  more  since  those  doors  had  been  shut,  all  that  time  they  had 
continued  open  day  and  night,  strangers  might  arrive  there  at  the 
most  unseasonable  hours,  or  in  any  numbers,  for  the  master  of  the 
iiQUse  had  provided  every  thing  necessary  both  for  the  men  and  fcu' 

•EhnHaukJl 


ARABIA.  5^' 

their  beasts  ;  and  he  appeared  with  a  delighted  and  joyful  ccunte» 
nance  when  the  guests  tarried  awhile. 

"  In  all  the  regions  of  the  earth  ti.ere  is  not  a  morf  flourislun;^ 
or  a  more  delightful  country  than  this,  espi^cially  the  district  of 
Bokhara.  If  a  person  stand  on  the  Kohcndiz  (ur  ancient  castle) 
of  Bokhara,  and  cast  his  eyes  around,  he  siiali  not  see  any  ihiug 
but  beautiful  and  luxuriant  verdure  on  every  side  of  the  country  ; 
so  that  he  would  imagine  the  green  of  the  earth  and  the  azure  of 
the  heavens  were  united :  and  as  there  are  green  fields  in  evcrv 
quarter,  so  there  are  villas  interspersed  among  the  green  fields. 

"  The  walls  and  buildings,  and  cultivated  plains  ot  Bokiiara,  ex- 
tend above  13  larsang,  by  I2farsang;  and  the  Sogd,  for  8  day^i 
journey,  is  all  delightful  country,  affording  fine  prospects,  and  full 
of  gardens,  and  orchards,  and  villages,  corn  fields,  and  villas,  and 
running  streams,  reservoirs,  and  fountains,  both  on  the  right  hand 
and  on  the  left.  You  pass  from  coin  fields  into  rich  meadows  an<i 
pasture  lands  ;  and  the  fruits  of  Sogd  are  the  finest  in  the  world."* 


ARABIA, 

Extent.  ARABL\,  taken  in  its  former  extent,  lies  between  lr.t-; 
12  30  and  31  30  N  Ion.  34  14  and  59  14  E.  and  forms  one  of  tiic 
largest  peninsulas  in  the  world. 

Boundaries  It  is  bounded  E.  by  the  Euphrates,  the  Persian 
gulf,  and  the  bay  of  Ormus  ;  W.  by  Palestine,  part  of  Syria,  the 
isthmus  of  Suez,  and  llit  Red  Sra  ;  S.  by  the  straits  of  Babelman- 
del,  and  the  Indian  ocean  ;  N.  by  part  of  Syria,  Diarbekir,  Irak, 
and  Khuzcstan. 

The  Icngtii  is  not  less  than  1800  miles  ;  while  the  medial  breadth 
is  about  8aO  ;  containing  about  1,440,000  square  miles 

Divisions.  The  best  eastern  writers  have  divided  this  peninsula 
in'o  5  provinces  or  kingdoms,  viz.  Yarnan,  Hejah,  Tchema,  Naid, 
and  Yamana.  It  was  divided  by  Ptolemy  into  Arabia  Pctrea,  Ara- 
bia Dcserta,  and  Arabia  Felix  ;  and  since  his  time  this  ilivision  has 
generally  prevailed  :  Arabia  is  divided  by  the  ir.habiiants  tliem- 
selves  into  8  provinces,  entirely  indepcncient  on  one  another,  viz, 
Yemen,  on  the  S.  towards  the  straits  of  Bai)elmaiidel,  Kadramant, 
on  the  siiores  of  the  Indian  ocean,  Omam,  on  the  S.  of  the  entrance 
of  the  Persian  gulf,  Hadsjar  or  Hajar,  Nedsied  or  Negcd,and  Htd- 
jas  or  Heji.z.  The  territory  of  the  Beduins,  or  of  the  Arabs  in  the 
desert  of  Syria,  may  be  reckoned  a  seventh  province,  and  to  this- 
again  may  be  added  tho  Arabian  establishments  on  the  ^outherit 
coast  of  Persia  t 

Historical  £/ioch.  From  the  flight  of  Mahomet,  which  happen- 
ed in  the  622d  year  of  Christ,  the  54th  year  of  his  age,  and  the  lOih 
of  his  ministry,  his  followers,  the  Mahometans,  compute  their  time, 
and  the  era  is  called  in  Arabic,  Hegira,  '*  the  Fiight." 

•  Ebn  Haukal,  by  Sir  Win.  Ousely, p.  2!^4;     f  Re«'  Cyclopedia,  article  Arab'* 


600  ARABIA. 

Mahomet,  by  the  assistance  of  the  inhabitants  of  Medina,  and  of 
others  whom  his  insinuation  and  address  daily  attached  to  himj 
brought  over  all  his  countrymen  to  a  belief,  or  at  least  to  an  ac- 
quiescence in  his  doctrines.  The  speedy  propagation  of  his  sys- 
tem amoni^  the  Arabians,  was  a  new  argument  in  its  behalf  amos^ 
the  inhabitants  of  Egypt  and  the  East,  who  were;  previousfy  dis- 
posed to  it.  Avians,  Jews,  and  Gentiles,  all  forsook  their  ancient 
faith,  and  became  Mahometans.  In  a  word,  the  contagion  spread 
over  Arabia,  Syria,  Egypt,  and 'Persia  ;  and  Mahoruet,  from  a  de- 
ceitful hypocrite  became  the  most  powerful  uionarch  in  iiis  time. 
He  was  prochumed  king  at  Medina,  in  the  year  62'  ;  and  after 
subciuing  part  of  Araliia  and  Syria,  he  died  in  632,  leaving  fvo 
branches  of  his  I'ace,  both  esteemed  divine  among  their  subjects. 
These  were  the  caiiphs  of  Persia  and  of  Egypt,  under  the  last  of 
M'hich  Arabia  was  included.  The  former  of  these  turned  their 
arms  to  the  East,  and  made  conquest  of  many  countii'  s. 

The  caliphs  of  Egypt  and  Arabia  directed  their  ravages  to- 
wards Europe,  and  under  the  name  of  Saracens,  or  Moors  (which 
they  obtained,  because  they  entered  Europe  from  Mauritania,  in 
Africa,  the  country  of  the  Moors)  reduced  most  of  Spain,  P'ranccj 
Italy,  and  the  islands  in  the  Mediterranean. 

In  this  manner  did  the  successors  of  that  impostor  spread  their 
religion  and  conquests  over  the  greatest  part  of  Asia,  Africa,  and 
Europe  ;  and  they  btill  give  law  to  a  very  considerable  part  of 
mankind. 

ReligiQ7i.  The  Arabian  religion  was,  befcre  Mahomet,  the 
Sabian  ;  but  the  Sabian  faith  is  not  clearly  and  satisfactorily  ascer- 
tained. It  is  generally  allowed  that  they  admitted  the  existences 
of  one  supreme  God,  the  Creator  and  Lord  of  the  universe,  whom 
they  denominated  "  Allah  Taala,"  the  most  high  God  :  and  the  re- 
ligion of  the  noble  and  learned  Arabs,  as  well  as  of  the  poets,  was 
pure  theism. 

The  Magian  religion  was  introduced  among  some  tribes  of 
Arabia,  a  long  time  before  Mahomet,  in  consequence  of  the  vi- 
cinity of  ll^e  Persians,  and  their  intercourse  with  the  Arabians. 
Judaism  also  is  said  to  have  been  introduced  among  the  idolatrous 
Hamyarites,  by  Abu  Cavb  Asad,  about  700  years  bi'fore  Mahomet, 
and  the  Jc.vs,  who  fi-d  into  Arabia,  in  great  numbers,  after  the 
destruction  of  their  country  by  the  Romans,  made  proselytes  of 
several  tiibes,  and  in  time  became  very  powerful,  and  obtained 
possession  of  several  towns  and  fortresses. 

Christianity  had  likewise  inade  great  progress  in  Arabia,  be- 
fore the  time  of  .Mahomet.  The  principal  tribes  that  embraced 
Christianity  were  Hamyar,  Ghassan,  Rabia,  Taghlah,  Bahra,  To- 
muh,  part  of  those  of  Tay,  and  Kodaa,  the  inhabhants  of  Najran, 
and  the  Arabs  of  liira.  Such  were  the  principal  religions  which 
obtained  among  the  ancient  Arc\bs. 

Govenimeni.  The  primitive  form  of  government,  among  the 
Arabs,  was  of  the  patriarchal  kind  ;  and  the  same  form,  according 
to  Niebuhr,  has  ever  subsisted  without  alteration  ;  a  circumstance 
which  proves  the  antiquitv  of  this  people.     Among  the  Beduins 


ARABIA.  601 

cv  pastoral  Arabs,  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  Scenltes,  or 
Sunnites,  it  is  preserved  in  all  its  purity.  Of  these,  such  as  live 
in  tents  have  many  sheiks,  each  of  whom  governs  his  own  family 
with  a  power  almost  absolute. 

Manners  and  Customs.  In  politeness  the  Arabs  vie  with  the 
Persians,  and  there  are  still  remains  of  their  ancient  hospitality. 
The  houses,  though  of  stone,  arc  meanly  constructed  ;  the  apart- 
ments of  the  men  being-  in  fi'ont,  tiiose  of  the  women  behind.  Of 
a  middle  stature,  thin,  and  dried  as  it  were  by  the  sun,  the  Arab  is 
moderate  in  his  food,  the  common  people  seldom  exceedinij  a  re- 
past of  bad  bread  made  from  durra,  a  kind  of  millet,  mixed  with 
camel's  milk,  oil,  butter,  or  grease  ;  the  only  drink  beinij  water. 
This  bread  of  durra,  custom  has  taught  them  to  preter  to  that  of 
barley,  which,  though  pleasant,  they  tiiink  unsubsiaiitial.  Meat  is 
little  used,  even  by  the  rich,  who  deem  it  unhealthy  in  a  hoc  cli- 
mate. The  most  noted  driidi  is  coffee,  which  they  prepare  like 
the  Turks,  by  burning  it  in  an  open  pan,  and  then  bruising  in  a 
stone  or  wooden  mortar. 

Language.  The  language  of  the  Arabs  was,  even  in  ancient 
times  divided  into  several  dialects,  as  may  be  suspected  from  its 
wide  diflfusion.*  Even  in  Yemen  there  are  subdivisions  ;  and  po- 
lite people  use  a  different  enunciation  from  the  vulgar.  Tlie  lan- 
guage of  the  Koran  is  so  different  from  the  modern  speech  of 
Mecca,  that  it  is  taught  in  the  colleges  there,  as  the  Latin  is  at 
Rome.  The  chief  poets  are  now  found  among  the  wandering 
Arabs  in  the  country  of  Jof,  or  Mareb,  adjoining  to  Yemen  on  the 
E.f  Some  also  appear  in  the  towns,  where  they  amuse  the  com- 
pany in  coffee-houses  ;  in  this,  as  in  other  respects,  resembling 
the  Turkish.  The  ancient  treasures  of  Arabian  literature  are 
well  known  to  the  learned  world  ;  but  few  of  these  noble  monu- 
ments were  composed  in  Ai-abia,  being  mostly  produced  in  the 
conquered  countries  from  Samarcand  to  Cordova. 

LiteTuiure.  The  mode  of  education  among  the  Arabs  is  very 
different  from  that  of  the  Europeans.  The  former  strive  to  hasten 
the  age  of  maturity,  as  much  as  the  latter  endeavor  to  retard  it. 
In  the  cities  many  of  the  lowest  rank  are  taught  both  to  read  and 
write.  Persons  of  distinction  retain  preceptors  in  their  families  to 
instruct  their  children  and  young  slaves.  In  almost  every  mosque 
is  a  school,  having  a  foundation  for  the  support  of  teachers, 
and  the  maintenance  and  instruction  of  poor  scholars.  In  great 
towns,  there  are  likewise  other  schools,  to  which  people  of  middle 
rank  send  their  children  to  receive  religious  instruction,  and  to 
learn  reading,  Avriting,  and  arithmetic. 

There  arc  colleges,  in  which  tlic  sciences  of  astronomy,  astrolo- 

*  In  regard  to  the  extent  of  Gountry  through  which  the  Arabic  is  spoken, 
Mr.  Martyn  observes,  that  the  Arabic  translation  is  of  more  importance  than 
one  fourth  of  all  the  translations  now  in  hand.  "  We  will  begin,"  says  he, 
"  to  preach  to  Arabia,  Syria,  Persia,  Tartary,  part  of  India,  and  of  China,  half 
of  Africa,  all  the  sea-coast  of  tlie  Kfediterranean,  and  Turkey  ;  and  one  tongue 
<ha!l  suffice  for  them  a!!."  Suchinnsrzs  R^yarcl>es. 

+  Niebuhr,93. 
76 


6C2  ARABIA. 

gy,  phxloscphy,  and  medicine  are  taught  :  but  the  Arabians,  for 
the  want  ol"  books  and  good  masters,  make  little  progress  :  and 
their  attainments  arc  very  partial  and  imperfect.  In  the  domin- 
ions of  Imam,  there  have  been  for  a  long  time  two  famous  acade- 
mies ;  one  at  Zcbid,  the  other  at  Damar.  The  chief  employment 
of  men  of  letters  among  the  Arabians,  are  the  interpretation  of 
the  Koran,  and  the  study  of  the  ancient  history  of  the  Mahometans. 

Some  seeds  of  the  sciences  seem  to  have  sprung  up  in  Arabia, 
before  they  were  known  to  other  nations.  They  were  the  first 
who  studied  the  laws  of  the  heavenly  bodies.  Their  knowledge 
of  astronomy,  however,  was  neither  very  accurate  nor  very  exten- 
sive. In  Arabia  we  lind  the  cradle  of  poetry  and  eloquence,  which 
had.  scarcely  appeared  before  they  arrived  at  sudden  maturity. 
Among  the  ancient  Arabs,  eloquence  was  in  high  repute. 

Cities  and  Tovjns.  Mecca  was  known  to  the  Greeks  under 
the  name  of  Macoraba,  and  has  not,  in  the  most  flourishing  period, 
exceeded  the  size  and  populousness  of  Marseilles.  The  founders 
erected  their  habitations  of  mud  or  stone,  in  a  plain  about  2  miles 
long  and  1  broad,  at  the  foot  of  three  barren  mountains  :  the  soil 
is  a  rock  ;  the  water  even  of  the  holy  well  of  Zemzem  is  bitter  or 
brackisii.  By  the  sea-port  of  oTedda,  at  the  distance  only  of  forty- 
miles,  they  maintained  an  eai^y  correspondence  with  Abyssinia. 
Mecca  is  placed  almost  at  an  equal  distance,  a  month's  journej^, 
between  Yemen  on  the  right  and  Syria  on  the  left  hand.  The 
former  was  the  winter,  the  latter  the  summer  staLix)n  of  her  cara™ 
vans. 

Medina  stands  about  200  miks  N.  of  Mecca,  being,  as  well  as 
the  latter,  about  a  days  journey  from  the  shores  of  the  Red  Sea. 
It  is,  according  to  Niebuhr,  a  small  town,  surrounded  with  a 
paltry  wall,  little    remarkable  except  for  the  tomb  of  Mahomet. 

Sana,  or  Saana,  in  Yemen,  is  reputed  at  present  the  chief  city 
of  Arabia.  It  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  mountain  called  Nik- 
kum,  near  v/hith  is  a  spacious  garden.  The  city  is  not  very  ex- 
tensive, as  one  may  walk  round  it  in  the  space  of  an  hour,  so  that, 
the  circuit  cannot  exceed  four  miles  ;  and  even  of  this  small  space 
a  part  is  occupied  by  gardens.*  The  walls  are  of  brick,  v/ith 
seven  gates. 

Mocha  is  well  built,  the  houses  very  lofty,  and  are  with  the  walls 
and  forts  covered  with  a  chinam  or  stucco,  that  gives  a  dazzling 
•whiteness  to  them.  The  harbor  is  semicircular,  the  circuit  of  the 
•wall  is  two  miles,  and  there  are  several  handsome  if.osqucs  in  the 
city. 

Suez,  the  Arsinoe  of  the  ancients,  is  surrounded  by  the  desert, 
and  but  a  desolate  place.  It  stands  at  the  extremity  of  the  Red 
Sea,  having  the  sea  to  the  E.  the  harbor  to  the  S.  which  is  formed 
by  an  island  'E. 

Jedda  is  the  place  of  the  greatest  trade  in  the  Red  Sea,  and  ia 
the  sea  port  of  Arabia,  for  there  the  commerce  between  Arabia 
and  Europe  meets  and  is  interchanged,  the  former  sending  her 

*  Nieb.Desc.  201. 


ARABIA.  603 

gums,  drugs,  coffee,  Sec.  and  from  Europe  come  cloths,  iron,  furs, 
and  other  articles  by  the  way  of  Cairo. 

Kesem  or  Keschin  belongs  to  the  country  called  Mahrah  :  to 
the  sheik  of  this  town  the  noted  isle  of  Socotra  belongs,  which  is 
celebrated  for  aloes.*  The  province  of  Omon  is  divided  aniong^ 
jnany  sheiks,  but  Rostak  is  estetmed  the  capital.  Maskai  is 
however  the  most  considerable  town,  and  tl)c  best  known  to  Eu- 
ropeans, having  an  excellent  harbor,  and  being  from  early  times  a 
staple  of  trade  between  Arabia,  Persia,  and  ti>e  Indies. 

Lahsa,  the  capital  of  the  province  so  called,  is  a  large  and  well 
built  lov/n,  standing  on  a  torrent  which  falls  into  a  considerable 
bay  opposite  to  the  isle  of  Bahrin,  celebrated  for  the  pearl 
fishery. t 

Cojivncrce.  The  commerce  of  Arabia,  since  the  Portuguese 
opened  a  passage  to  India  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  has  very- 
much  declined.  Niebuhr  regards  aloes  and  frankincense,  (the 
latter  chiefly  from  Hadramaut,)  as  the  only  native  articles  of  com- 
merce, before  coffee  came  into  use.|  The  principal  trading 
ports  are  Jedda,  Loheia,  and  Beit  el  Fakih,  carrying  on  a  consider- 
able trade  in  coffee  ;  Hodcida,  Mocha,  Aden,  Mascat,  Sur  or 
Seger,  Faitach,  and  Dafar,  on  the  Arabian  ocean  ;  Bahrin  and 
El  Katif  in  the  gulf  of  Bassora. 

Besides  the  maritime  commerce,  a  considerable  traffic  is  car- 
ried on  by  land  by  means  of  the  caravans  of  Aleppo  and  Suez, 
which  bring  hither  velvets,  sattins,  armoisins,  and  all  sorts  of  rich 
stuff's  ;  saff"ron,  mercury,  vermilion.  Sec.  and  take  in  return  partly 
the  natural  products  of  the  country,  partly  manufactures,  and 
partly  foreign  merchandiEC  brought  from  the  Indies,  from  Aleppo, 
and  from  Europe. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  In  the  mountains  of  Yemen  there  is  a 
regular  rainy  season,  from  the  middle  of  June  to  the  end  of  Sep- 
tember ;  but  even  then  the  sky  is  rarely  covered  with  clouds  for 
twenty-four  hours  at  a  time  ;  and  during  the.  remainder  of  the 
year  a  cloud  is  scarcely  to  be  seen.  At  Maskat,  and  in  the  east- 
ern mountains,  the  rahiy  season  extends  from  the  middle  of  No- 
vember to  the  middle  of  February  ;  and  in  Omon  there  is  rain 
from  the  middle  of  February  to  the  middle  of  April.  In  the  ])lains 
ot  Yemen  rain  is  sometimes  unknown  for  a  whole  year  :  and  in 
July  and  August  the  thermometer  will  be  98°,  while  at  Sana  in  the 
mountains  it  is  85°.  In  general  the  wind  fiom  the  sea  is  moist, 
and  lliat  from  the  interior  deserts  is  dry,  in  the  northern  parts  of 
which  are  chiefly  perceived  the  disastrous  efi'ects  of  the  burning 
wind  called  Samiei. 

Face  of  the  Country.  The  general  aspect  of  Arabia  presents 
a  central  desert  of  great  extent,  with  a  few  fertile  oases  or  isles,  as 
in  Africa  ;  while  the  flourishing  provinces  are  those  situated  on 
the  shores  of  the  sea,  which  supplies  rain  sufficient  to  maintain  ike 
vegetation.  In  Yemen  there  are  mountains  of  considerable  heie-hr, 
but  chiefly  barren  and  unAVOoded. 

»  Niebuhr,  24S.  f  Jb,  29-1,  •  p.  245, 


6Q4  ARABIA. 

Soil  and  Jgrkulturc.  The  nature  oi'  ihe  soil  has  not  been  in' 
dicated.  The  grain  in  general  yields  little  more  than  ten  for  one, 
but  the  durra  soinelimes  greatly  exceeds  this  ratio,  yielding  in  the 
high  lands  140,  and  in  the  Tehama,  or  plain,  from  200  to  400,  By 
Iheir  mode  of  sowing  and  watering  this  grain  the  inhabitants  of 
Tehama  reap  three  successive  crops  from  the  same  field  in  the 
same  year.  The  plough  is  simple  :  and  the  pick  is  used  instead  of 
the  spade.  The  chief  exertion  of  agricultural  industry  is  to  water 
the  lands  from  the  rivulets  and  wells,  or  by  conducting  the  rains. 

Among  the  chief  vegetable  products  of  Arabia,  Isiebuhr  reck- 
ons aloes,  myrrh,  frankincense  of  an  inferior  kind,  and  coffee  \ 
and  also  cocoa  trees,  pomegranates,  dales,  apricots,  peaches,  al- 
monds, filberts,  pears,  figs,  and  tamarinds.  But  the  best  frankin- 
cense, with  spikenards,  cinnanion,  cussia,  cardamums,  and  pep-, 
per,  are  imported  from  llindostan.  The  orange  trees  are  brought 
from  Portugal,  and  the  lemon  from  Italy  ;  the  mangosteen  and 
cocoa,  with  several  others,  are  imported  from  Hindostan. 

Motaitains  and  Deserts.  The  chief  range  of  mountains  pro- 
ceeds in  the  direction  of  the  Red  Sea  ;  towards  the  N.  not  more 
than  30  miles  distant,  but  sometimes  in  the  S.  about  150,  a  cir- 
cumstance which  imparts  extent  and  fertility  to  Yemen. 

What  is  called  the  Desert  of  Sinai,  is  a  beautiful  plain  nearly 
nine  miles  long,  and  above  three  in  breadth,  open  to  the  north-east, 
but  to  the  southward  closed  by  some  of  the  lower  eminences  oi 
Mount  Sinai. 

Sinai  is  a  lofty,  steep  mountain,  ascended  by  14,000  stone  steps. 
On  the  summit  is  a  Christian  churchy  and  a  Turkish  mosque.  In 
a  vale  not  far  remote  stands  the  solitary  rock,  now  called  by  the 
Arabs,  the  stone  of  Moses  ;  by  the  Greeks,  the  stone  of  the  foun- 
tains, which  Moses  struck  and  the  water  flowed.  It  is  12  feet  high,, 
S  or  10  broad.  It  is  a  granite  marble,  of  brick  color.  There  re- 
main on  it  to  this  day,  the  lively  impressions  of  the  miracle.  Still 
we  see  the  place  whence  the  water  gushed.  Twelve  different 
openings,  as  so  many  mouths,  proclaim  the  genuineness  of  scrip- 
ture history.     Exod.  xvii.  1. 

In  the  wilderness  of  Paran  is  also  the  rock  mentioned,  Xumb.  xx. 
2,  which  Moses  struck  twice,  before  the  water  flowed,  38  years  dis- 
tant from  the  other  transaction.  This  is  a  large  rock,  and  like  the 
other  shows  various  openings  from  top  to  bottom,  whence  the  water 
burst  when  smitten  by  the  rod  of  Moses.* 

The  sandy  deserts  of  Arabia  arc  more  striking  objects  than  the 
mountains.  From  Omon  to  Mecca  the  greater  part  of  Ncged  is 
one  prodigious  desert,  interrupted  by  some  fertile  spots  and  towns, 
indicated  by  Niebuhr.  The  N.  W.  part  of  Neged  presents  almost 
a  continued  desert,  a  prolongation  of  the  other. 

Isles.  Besides  several  isles  of  little  consequence  in  the  Arabian 
gulf,  there  are  two  islands  which  deserve  particular  notice,  Soco- 
tra,  about  240  miles  from  the  soutliei-n  coast  of  Arabia,  appears  in 
all  ages  to  have  belonged  to  that  country,  and  to  have  been  celc-. 

*  w^ournal  to  Sina'. 


ASIATIC  ISLANDS.  60S 

brated  for  the  production  of  aloes,  still  esteemed  superior  to  any 
other.  The  inhabitants  are  clearly  of  Arabian  extract.  There  are 
two  bays,  uiid  some  secure  harbors  ;  and  the  isle  is  also  said  to 
piociucc  frankincense,  while  aniljerg-ris  and  coral  are  found  in  the 
jicit<aboiinia;  sf^as.  The  isle  of  Balirin  is  in  the  Persian  gulf,  near 
the  Arabian  coast,  and  remarkable  for  the  great  pearl  fishery  in  its 
nc'i>i!i!)oiliooa.  There  is  in  it  a  fortified  town  ;  and  in  the  whole 
group  of  these  isles,  there  may  be  40  or  50  mean  villages. 


ASIATIC  ISLANDS. 

PRESIDENT  Des  Brosses,  nearly  half  a  century  ago,  proposed 
4hat  the  cuuniries  to  the  ^iouth  of  Asia,  namely  New-IIolland,  New- 
Guinea,  and  New-Zealand,  &cc.  should  be  slylcd  Australasia,  and 
the  numerous  isles  in  the  Pacific,  Folynenia,  from  a  Gieek  term 
implyini;  many  islands  *  A  description  of  the  large  island,  or 
rather  continent  of  New-Holiand,  with  its  appendages,  naturally 
follows  that  of  Asia,  and  the  Asiatic  islands  in  the  Indian  ocean  ; 
and  will  be  properly  succeeded  by  that  of  Polynesia,  or  the  islands 
in  the  Pacific. 

New-Holland  may  be  considered  as  the  fixed  division  between 
the  Indian  and  Pacific,  thus  claiming  with  justice  the  authority  of 
a  continent,  washed  by  the  Indian  ocean  on  the  west,  and  the  Pacific 
on  the  east ;  while  a  line  drawn  from  the  most  prominent  central 
capes,  in  the  north  and  south,  may  be  regarded  as  a  boundary  of 
these  two  oceans.  The  southern  extension  of  this  imaginary  line 
is  of  little  moment ;  but  jn  the  north  it  must  be  considered  as  a  di- 
vision of  great  importance  to  precise  discussion,  as  the  isles  on  the 
west  must  be  considered  as  strictly  Asiatic,  and  intimately  con- 
nected with  the  description  of  Asia ;  while  those  on  the  right  be- 
long to  Australasia  and  Polynesia. 

Polynesia  extends  from  50°  S.  lat.  to  about  35°  N.  lat.  that  is  S5-, 
or  5100  geographical  miles  :  while  the  breadth  taken  from  Ion. 
170°  E.  from  Greenwich,  to  130°  \V.  upon  the  equator  itself,  yields 
60  degrees,  or  3600  geographical  miles. 

The  length  of  Australasia  may  be  computed  from  95  of  the  same 
longitude  to  185°,  that  is  40°  in  lat.  30°,  or  nearly  5000  geographi- 
cal miles  ;  while  the  breadth,  lat.  3°  N.  to  lat  50°  S.  will  be  3180 
geographical  miles. 

The  smallest  division,  that  of  the  Asiatic  isles,  called  also  the 
Oriental  Archipelago,  extends  from  13°  S.  latitude,  to  22°  N.  lar 
that  is  35°,  or  2100  geographical  miles  ;  while  the  length  from  95^ 
E.  Ion.  to  132°,  yields  37  degrees  not  far  from  the  equator,  nearly 
corresponding  with  the  breadth. 

'Histoirc  des  ^Tavigations  aux  Terrcs  Ausirales.     Paris,  ]T.56',  2  vols,  4tc. 


606  ASIATIC  ISLES. 


ASIATIC  ISLES. 


FIVE  divisions  are  not  only  indicated  by  the  hand  ol' nature,  but 
hctui  sufficient  lor  a  dc&criplion  of  this  vast  archipelago. 


I.  THE  ISLES  OF  SUNDA,  OR  THE  SUMATRAN  CHAIN. 

This  division  comprises  Sumatra^  Java.,  Balli,  Lombok^  Sianba- 
T^fl,  Florez,  and  I'imor  ;  v/ith  several  isles  of  less  note  in  the  vicini- 
ty of  these. 

Sumatra  is  not  less  than  950  miles  in  length,  by  about  200  in 
breadth,  containing  177,000  square  miles.*  The  English  settlement 
of  Bencoolen,  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  this  island,  has  occasioned  par- 
ticular attention  to  its  nature  and  productions,  especially  since  Mr. 
Marsden  published  an  ample  and  intelligent  account  of  this  inter- 
esting island,  from  which  this  brief  description  shall  be  abstract- 
ed.!. A  chain  of  mountahis  runs  through  the  whole  isle.  Mount 
Ophir,  immediately  under  the  equinoctial  line,  is  13,842  feet  above 
the  sea,  only  yielding  about  2000  feet  to  mount  Blanc.  Between 
the  ridges  of  mountains  are  elevated  plains  vi^ith  lakes  and  water- 
falls. The  soil  is  generally  a  stiff  reddish  clay,  covered  with  a 
layer  of  black  mould,  the  source  of  perpetual  verdure  ;  but  three 
quarters  of  the  isle,  especially  towards  the  south,  present  an  im- 
pervious forest.  On  the  Avest,  between  the  inuuniains  and  the  sea, 
there  are  large  swamps  ;  but  even  here  the  face  of  the  country  is 
remarkably  broken  and  uneven.  There  seem  to  be  many  mines  of 
•g'old,  though  mostly  neglected;  and  the  copper  is  mingled  with 
that  metal.  There  are  excellent  ores  of  iron  and  steel :  and  that 
Tare  mineial,  tin,  is  one  of  the  chief  exports,  being  principally 
found  near  PalimLang  on  the  eastern  shore,  a  continuation  proba- 
bly of  the  rich  beds  of  Banca.  Gold  is  found  near  Bcncoolen,  and 
in  other  places,  but  of  infeiior  quality.  The  little  island  of  Pcolo 
j-'isaug,  close  lb  the  foot  of  mount  Poogon,  is  mostly  a  bed  of  rocky 
crystal.  There  are  several  volcanic  mountains  in  Sumatra,  as  in 
most  of  the  other  islands  of  the  oriental  archipelago,  but  eruptions 
ixvQ  unlVeciuent.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  this  island  is  esti- 
mated l)y  Hassel  at  4,500,000  ;  by  Bruns,  only  at  2,250,000.  The 
sea  coast  is  chiefly  occupied  by  the  Malays,  who  seem  to  be  recent 
settlers.  By  the  account  of  Mr.  Marsden  there  are  inland  races, 
of  whom  the  Googoo  are  covered  with  long  hair,  and  little  superior 
lo  tiic  Ourang  Outangs  of  Borneo.  The  chief  native  sovereignty 
js  that  of  Menang  Cabou,  but  the  Rejangs  seem  to  retain  the  pur- 
est race  ai>d  manners. 

The  villages  are  commonly  on  hills,  and  surrounded  with  fruit 
trees  ;  the  balli,  or  common  hall,  being  in  the  centre.  The  house? 
are  of  wood  arid  bamboos,  covered  with  leaves  of  palm,  standing  on 
pillars,  and  scaled  by  a  riide  ladder.     The  most  abundant  article  is 

*  Hassd.  f  Histon'  of  .Smnatraj  1784,  4to.  Cd  edit. 


ASIATIC  ISLES.  60r 

fjepper,  the  object  of  the  British  settlement ;  beinj;;  produced  by  a 
climbing  plant  resemblinc^  a  vine.  The  white  pepper  is  procured 
by  stripping  tlie  outer  husk  from  the  ripe  t^rains.  Camphor  is 
another  remarkable  ve.i^elablc  product,  and  cassia,  a  coarse  kind  oE 
cinnamon,  is  found  in  the  central  puts  of  the  country.  Rattans  are 
exported  to  Europe  for  walking  canes. 

The  commerce  is  chiefly  with  Hindoslan  and  China.  The  Ma- 
lays excel  in  gold  and  silver  fiUagree,  and  in  weaving  silk  and  cot- 
ton;  but  the  manufactures  are  imperfect,  and  the  sciences  little 
cultivated.  Besides  the  Malay,  several  languages  are  spoken, 
which  seem  however  to  have  a  manifest  alliiiiiy  amongst  them- 
selves, and  with  that  widely  diffused  speech  which  may  be  called 
the  Polynesian,  as  it  is  diffused  through  innumerable  islands  in  the 
Pacific.  Even  the  rudest  trilies  of  Sumatra  and  t!ie  other  Asiatic 
isles,  as  far  as  the  utmost  bounds  of  Polynesia,  display  a  certain  de- 
gree of  civilization.  The  panjeran  or  prince  presides  over  many 
magistrates  ;  but  his  governruent  is  limited,  his  power  being  cor.° 
finedby  his  poverty.  Lawsare  unknown,  the  chiefs  rendering  judge- 
ment according  to  customs.  Most  crimes  are  compensated  by 
money,  murder  itself  not  excepted.  The  difficulties  attending  mat- 
riage,  form  an  exception  to  the  general  customs  of  uncivilized 
countries,  and  the  general  chastity  seems  remarkable.  The  Chris- 
tian religion  is  unknown  in  Sumati'a,  the  missionaries  having  unac- 
countably neglected  this  large  island.  The  kingdom  of  Acheen  in 
the  N.  W.  extremity  of  the  island,  carries  on  a  considerable  trade, 
with  the  coast  of  Coromandel.  The  natives  are  more  stout  and  tall, 
and  of  a  darker  complexion  than  the  other  Sumatrans. 

Several  small  isles  encompass  Sumatra.  Baiica  is  particularly 
celebrated  for  its  tin.*  Of  Billeton  little  is  known  ;  nor  of  the  isits 
that  lie  between  Sumatra  and  Malacca,  called  Piiti,  and  other 
names,  with  the  common  addition  oiPulo,  which  in  these  seas  ap- 
pears to  imply  an  island,  being  a  Malay  term. 

The  Nassau  or  Po^gy  isles,  lie  off  the  W.  coast  of  Sumatra, 
distant  20  or  30  leagues.  They  rise  into  rough  hills  and  moun- 
tains, exhibiting  strong  marks  of  some  powerful  convulsion.  The 
islanders,  in  their  language,  their  manners,  and  character,  are  verr 
different  from  their  neighbors  on  Sumatra.  The  two  principal 
islands  have  about  MOO  people,  divided  into  small  tribes,  each  oc- 
cupying a  stream  of  water.  Their  houses  are  of  bamboos,  raised 
on  posts:  the  under  part  is  inhabited  by  hogs  and  poultry.  Their 
clothing  is  a  piece  of  coarse  cloth  made  of  bark,  worn  round  the 
waist. 

Java  is  a!)out  650  miles  in  length,  by  al>out  100  of  medial 
breadth;  it  is  remarkable  for  the  city  of  Batavia,  \vhic!i  was  the 
celebrated  capital  of  the  Dutch  possessions.  This  island,  like  t!it- 
former,  abounds  with  forests,  and  presents  an  enchanting  verdure. 
It  is  also  intersected  by  a  ridge  of  mountains,  like  a  spine  pervading 

•The  industrious  translator  of  Stavorlnus,  vol  i.  p.  357,  says  that  these  mines 
were  only  discovered  in  1710  or  1711,  and  though  the  Dutch  receive  about 
three  millions  of  pouttds  weight,  the  vein  seems  inexhaustible. 


60S  ASIATIC  ISLES. 

its  length.*  Batavia  is  strongly  forlified  with  walls,  and  a  citadel 
towards  the  sea..  There  are  many  canals  about  4  feet  in  depth,  and 
the  town  is  large,  and  well  built  of  stone.  This  metropolis  of  the 
oriental  archipelago  presents  many  nations  and  languages  ;  and 
tlie  Chinese  constitute  the  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants,  being 
conicnled  for  the  s:ike  of  gain  to  forget  the  tombs  of  their  ances- 
tors, and  the  laws  of  their  country  against  emigration.  The  Malay 
language,  the  French  of  the  east,  is  here  universally  understood. 
The  streets  are  planted  with  large  trees,  which  practice,  with  the 
Dutch  canals,  probably  contributes  to  the  unhealthiness  of  this 
spot.  The  heat  is  not  so  intense,  considered  in  itself,  being  between 
30°  and  86°,  as  from  the  low  situation  of  the  town,  and  the  murky 
exiialations  from  the  bogs,  canals,  and  a  muddy  sea,  whence  from 
9  o'clock  till  4  it  is  impossible  to  walk  out.  The  sun  being  nearly 
vertical,  rises  and  sets  about  6  throughout  the  year;  but  the  noc- 
tiu'nal  repose  is  infested  by  moskitos.  The  rainy  season  begins 
■with  December,  and  lasts  till  Marc«.  Crocodiles  abound  in  the 
rivers,  as  in  most  of  the  oriental  isles.  Java  is  divided  into  3  or  4 
principalities,  the  chief  being  the  emperor  of  Surikarta.  This  isl- 
and was  captured  by  the  British,  August,  1811. 

The  small  isle  of  Madura.,  on  the  N.  of  Java,  had  its  independ- 
ent prince,  whose  sufferings  under  the  tyranny  of  the  Dutch  have 
been  related  by  Mr.  Pennant. t  The  isle  of  Balli  seems  only  re- 
markable for  furnishing  slaves,  cotton,  yarn,  and  pickled  pork.|  It 
has  600,000  inhabitants,  who  are  pagans,  black  and  addicted  to  war. 

Timor  is  nearly  200  miles  in  length,  by  60  in  breadth  ;  and  the 
inhabitants  are  esteemed  the  bravest  in  the  Oriental  Archipelago. 
It  was  captured  by  the  British  in  1811. 


II.  BORNEO, 

The  largest  island  in  the  world,  is  about  900  miles  in  length,  by 
600  lii  its  greatest  breadth,  containing  about  313,500  square  miles. ^ 

The  interior  parts  of  the  great  island  of  Borneo  are  little  known, 
though  a  considerable  river  flows  Irom  the  centre  of  the  country 
almost  due  south,  forming  the  harbor  of  Bender  Massin  ;  and  the 
names  of  several  villages  on  the  banks  are  laid  down  by  D'Anville. 
The  far  greater  part  of  Borneo,  next  to  the  sea,  esjjecially  the 
northern  side,  consists  of  swamps,  covered  with  forest;;  of  ti'ees  of 
many  s])ecies  and  great  sizes.  This  island  has  five,  sr>me  say  six, 
millions  inhabitants. ||  Tlic  coasts  are  held  by  Malays,  Moors,  Ma- 
cassars from  Celel)tz,  and  Japanese.  The  natives  in  the  interior 
are  black,  with  long  hair,  of  a  middle  stature,  feeble  f  ind  inactive  ; 
but  their  features  are  superior  to  those  of  negroes.  7:luropean  set- 
tlements have   been  unsuccessful,  the   adventurers    having  been 

*Thunherg,  ii.  213.  For  a  tolerable  map  of  Java  see  the  T  oyage  of  Stavori- 
nus,  1798,  V.  i.  p.  313,  where  there  is  also  a  long  and  minute  description  of  the 
island. 

'|-  Outlines,  iv.  31.  See.  ib.  28,  the  massacre  of  12,000  Chio  ese  in  1740. 

i  See  Forres    170.  ^  Hassel  ||  Hassel  and  Brurs. 


ASIATIC  ISLES.  609 

ti\assacrcd.  Pepper  abounds  in  the  interior,  with  the  ^um  called 
ihe  dragon's  blood,  camphor,  and  sandal  wood.  Edible  birds'  nests 
are  abundant.  Gold  is  found  in  the  interior  country  ;  where  there 
are  also  said  to  be  diamonds,  bat  inferior  to  those  of  Golconda. 
The  Ourang  Outang;  abounds.  The  natives  are  called  Biajos,  but 
their  language  has  not  been  explained.  The  town,  called  Borneo, 
on  the  N.  W.  consists  of  about  SOOO  houses,  built  on  posts  fixed  in 
rafts,  which  are  moored  to  the  sliore,  and  moved  from  place  to 
place  at  pleasure.*  The  Chinese  arc  the  chief  traders  to  Borneo. 
This  large  island  is  surrounded  with  many  small  isles,  v^hich, 
from  their  relation  to  this  comparative  continent,  may  be  termed 
IJornean  islands. 


III.  THE  MANILLAS,  OR  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 

This  large  group  was  discovered  by  Magalhaens  in  1521,  who 
■called  them  the  archipelago  of  St.  Lazarus  ;  but  they  were  after- 
wards styled  the  Philippines,  in  honor  of  that  infamous  tyrant  Philip 
II.  of  Spain.     They  contain  3,800,000  inhabitants.! 

Luzon  is  the  largest  and  most  important  of  these  isles,  being* 
near  500  miles  in  length,  by  about  100  of  medial  breadth.  The  ua*- 
tives,  who  are  of  a  mild  character,  are  called  Tagals,  like  ail  those 
of  the  Philippines,  and  seem  of  Malay  origin4  They  are  tall  and 
well  made,  v/earing  only  a  kind  of  shirts  with  loose  drawers,  but 
the  dress  of  the  women  is  chiefly  a  large  mantle,  and  their  black 
a'vid  beautiful  hair  sometimes  reaches  the  ground,  the  complexion 
being  a  deep  tawney.  The  houses  arc  of  bamboo  covered  with 
palm  leaves,  raised  on  pillars  to  the  height  of  3  or  10  feet.  The 
chief  food  is  rice  and  salted  fish.  The  city  of  Manilla  is  well  biiiit 
and  fortified,  but  a  third  part  is  occupied  by  convents  :  the  number 
of  Chiislian  inhabitants  is  computed  at  12,000.  Between  this  ciiy 
and  Acapulco,  nearly  in  the  same  parallel  on  the  W.  of  Mexico, 
was  conducted  a  celebrated  commerce  througii  a  space  of  about 
140  degrees,  or  about  8400  geographical  miles,  more  than  one 
third  of  the  circumference  of  tJie  globe. 

Next  in  size  is  3Iindanao,  a  beautiful  and  fertile  island,  the  chief 
Spanish  settlement  being  at  Sambuang  in  the  S.  W.  This  island 
is  in  general  mountainous  ;  but  the  vales  consist  of  a  rich  black 
mould,  watered  with  the  purest  rivulets. 

The  other  chief  Philippines  arc  Pu/axvain,  Mindoro^  Pani  Bug-< 
ias  or  inle  ofjVcgroes,  Zebu,  I.eyt,  or  Leita.,  and  Samar.  On  the  E. 
of  Zebu  is  the  small  isle  of  Mactan,  where  ilie  celebrated  naviga- 
tor Magalhaens  was  slain.  These  isles  present  wild  boars,  deer, 
and  usefal  animals  of  various  kinds  ;  and  among  vegetables  the 
bread  fruit  uiust  not  be  forgotten,  which  first  appears  on  the  east- 
ern coasts  of  Sumatra,  and  thence  extends  its  benefits  through  in- 
numerable islands  in  tlie  Indian  and  Pacific  oceans. 

.•Peiiaaiit's  Outliaci,  iv.  52.  f  tlTSiel.  i  Sbnaerat,  ii.  108. 

77 


51^  ASIATIC  ISLESi 

IV.  THE  CELEBEZIAN  ISLES. 

Celebsz  is   inore  than   600  miles  long,  but  not  above  60  mile?  •• 
broad,  containing  about   92,000  square  miles,  and  3,000,000  inhab-- 
itants,*  Inn.  from  116°  to  124''  E.  lat.  1   30  to  5   30  N.    This  island 
is  lofty  and  mountainous,  especially  towards  the  centre,  and  there 
arc  several  active  volcanoes.     Tlie  natives,  commonly  called  Ma- 
cassars, often  degrade  their  courage  in  the  quality  of  freebootei's, 
attacking  vessels  with  surprising  desperation,  and  often  with  lances^ 
or  arrows  poisoned  with  the  juice  of  the  notorious  tree  called  upas. 
Their  houses  are  raised  on  pillars,  as  usual,  on  account  of  the  rainy? 
season,  or  \V.  monsoon,  from  November  till  March. 

Around  Celebez  are  m.any  small  isles,  mostly  inhabited,  and 
governed  by  chiefs* 

V.  THE-  SPICE  ISLANDS,  INCLUDING  THE  MOLUCCAS. 

The  chief  Spice  Islands  are  Gilolo,  Ceram^  and  Bouro^  with  Mor^- 
taif,  Oubi,  Alysol,  that  of  jimboyna^  and  the  group  of  Barida,  with, 
such  small  isles  as  approximate  nearer  to  these  than  to  the  Celebc- 
zian  group,  or  Sumatran  chain. 

Gilolo  is  about  230  miles  in  length;  the  breadth  seldom  above' 
40.  The  shores  are  low  :  the  interior  rises  to  high  peaks.  The 
sultans  of  Ternat  and  Tidore  now  share  this  large  isle  between 
them.t  One  ot  the  chief  towns  is  Tatany,  on  a  point  or  small  pro- 
■montory  of  the  eastern  limb.  The  bread  fruit  is  frequent  in  Gilolo, 
with  the  sago  tree.  The  natives  are  industrious,  particularly  in  • 
weaving. 

Ccram  i5  about  190  m:!es  in  length  by  40  in  breadth;  low  to- 
wards the  shore,  but  v/ith  inland  mountains;  producing  clove 
trees,  and  large  forests  of  the  sago  tree. 

Bouro  is  about  90  miles  in  length,  by  50  in  breadth.  It  rises 
suddenly  from  a  deep  sea,  being  encompassed  as  with  a  wall.  The-' 
interior  mountains  are  lofty. 

Oi  Mortay^  MysoU  and  Oubi^  little  is  known. 

The  proper  Moluccas  are  Ternat^  Tidore^  Afotir,  Makia7i,  and 
JBatchia?i. 

The  largest  is  Batc/iiaTi,  being  governed  by  a  sultan,  who  is  like- 
wise sovereign  of  Oubi  and  Ceram,  with  Goram,  a  little  isle  S.  E. 
of  Ceram,  reputed  the  most  eastern  boundary  of  the  Mahometan 
fait'.i.  This  monarch  had  a  pension  from  the  Dutch,  either  for  the 
destruction  or  sr.pply  cf  nutmegs,  but  is  otherwise  little  subservi- 
ent. Bulchian  rises  into  woody  lulls  ;  and  on  the  shores,  as  in  most 
isles  of  this  archipelago,  there  are  prodigioua  rocks  of  coral,  of 
great  variety  and  beauly.  Makian  is  a  small  isle  to  the  N.  of' 
Batchian,  and  rises  like  a  high  conic  mountain  from  the  sea.  This 
was  regarded  as  the  chief  Dutch  settlement  betore  Amboyiia  be- 
came the  metropolis  of  the  Moluccas.     Next  is  Motir,  formerly 

•Hassel,  f  Pennant,  iv.  19S. 


ASIATIC  ISLES.  6U 

said  to  be  the  seat  of  V'enus  and  voliiptuousr.ess.  In  TUtore  there 
are  25  mosques  ;  and  the  sultan,  as  ah'cady  mentioned,  possesses 
also  the  south  of  Gilolo,  and  claims  tribute  from  Mysol. 

Ternat  is  the  most  northern  and  important  of  the  Moluccas, 
though  it  scarcely  exceed  24  miles  in  circuinltircncc.     The  sultan 

,  controls  Makian  aiul  Motir,  with  the  north  of  Gilolo,  Mortay,  and 
even  some  Cclebczian  isles,  and  pan  of  Papua,  whericc  he  receives 
a  tribute  of  gold,  amber,  and  birds  of  Paradise.  Ternat  consists 
chiefly  of  hi^^h  land,  abounding  uith  streams  from  tiic  mountains. 
Jmboyna  is  about  60  miles  in  length  from  N.  to  S.  and  on  the 
west  side  tliere  is  a  large  bay,  which  divides  it  into  two  lirabs  or 
peninsulas.  On  the  easiern  side  is  anotlicr  bay,  with  a  bad  harbor, 
where  the  Portuguese  erected  their  cliicf  fortress,  Victoria.  The 
town  of  Amboyna,  the  capital  of  the  isle,  slands  near  the  S.  W.  ex- 
tremity and  is  neatly  built ;  the  houses,  on  account  of  the  frequent 
earthquaUes,  seldom  exceed  one  floor.  The  face  of  tliis  island  is 
beautiful,  woody  mountains  and  verdant  vaks  being  interspersed 
with  hamlets,  and  enriciied  by  cultivaiion.*     The  clove  tree  grows 

■  to  the  height  of  about  40  or  50  feet,  with  spreading  branches  and" 
long  pointed  leaves.  In  deep  sivellered  vales  some  trees  will  pro- 
duce 30  pounds  weight  annually,  the  chief  crop  being  from  No- 
vember 10  February.  The  soil  is  mostly  a  reddish  clay,  but  in  the 
vales  blackish  and  sandy.  When  Amboyna  was  recently  seized  by 
the  English,!  it  was  found,  with  its  dtpendcncics,  to  contain  45,252 
souls,  of  which  17,813  were  Protestants,  the  i-est  Mahometans,  ex- 
cept a  fevi'  Chinese  and  savages.  The  Dutch  are  tolerably  polish- 
ed, this  being  the  next  settlement  to  Baiavia  in  wealth  and  conse- 
quence. The  natives  cannot  be  praised,  they  differ  little  from  other 
Malays  ;  and  when  intoxicated  with  opium  will  commit  any  crime. 
Banda^  or  Lantor,  is  tb.e  chief  isle  of  a  group,  wiiich  comprises 
6  or  7  others  ;  it  does  not  exceed  8  miles  in  length,  fiom  W.  to  E. 
and  the  greatest  breadth  at  its  eastern  extremity  may  be  5  miles. 
The  nutmeg  tree  is  the  principal  object  of  cultivation  in  these 
isles  ;  and  flourishes  not  only  in  the  rich  black  mould,  but  even 
amidst  the  lavas  of  Gonong,  which  is  the  highest  isle,  the  summit 
being  1940  feet  above  the  sea.  When  the  English  seized  these 
isles  in  1796,  tiie  annual  produce  was  about  163,000  pounds  of 
nutmep-s  and  46,000  pounds  of  maccf  The  nutmeg  true  g:ov.s  to 
the  size  of  a  pear  tree,  the  leaves  resembling  those  of  tiie  laurel, 
and  bears  fruit  iVoin  the  age  of  lO  to  100  years. 

The  inhabitants  of  tiie  Banda  isles  were  found  lu  be  5763.  The 
English  were  expelled  from   Lantor,   and   Rohn,  or  Pulo  Rohn, 

*  An  account  of  the  Spice  Islands,  since  diey  have  been  in  the  possession  of 
Great  Britain.  Asiatic  Register,  ISOO,  p.  200.  'J'liere  was  a  most  violent 
earthquake  in  1755. 

f  The  islands  of  Amboyna  and  Eanda  were  taken  v/ithout  resistance  in  Feb- 
ruary and  ]\Tarch,  179(5,  by  the  Ei>gH,h  admiral  Rainier. 

\  The  hurricane  and  earthquake,  i  TVS,  almoit  annihilated  the  nutmeg  trees  I'a 
Bznda,  so  that  the  Dutch  have  become  the  dupes  of  thtir  own  avarice.  From 
1796  to  1798  the  English  East  India  Company  imported  817,311?  lb.  cloves, 
93,732  lb.  nutm«gs,  46,730  lb.  mace,  besides  priv.'.te  trade,  amounting  to  rbout  a 
third  part  of  the  above,    Stavorinus,  ii.  4  IS; 


612^  AUSTRALASIA. 

prior  to  the  i-nassacre  of  Aniboyna  ;  but  seized  the  whole  Spjca- 
Islands  in  1796,  and  restored  them  to  tljtir  Batavian  masters  by  th& 
treaty  vith  France,  1801.  In  1810,  tl.cy  were  again  taken  by  ths 
British,  in  whose  possession  they  now  icuiain. 


.    AUSTRALASIA. 

AUSTRALASIA,  as  already  bounded,  contains  the  fbllowing; 
countries : 

1.  The  central  and  cliief  land  of  New-Holland,  with  any  islet, 
which  may  be  discovered  in  the  adjacent  Indian  ocean,  20  degrees 
to  the  W.  and  between  20  and  30  degrees  to  the  E.  including  par- 
ticularly all  the  large  islands  that  follow  : 

2.  Papi«^«  or  New-Guinea. 

3.  l\e\v -Britain  and  New-Ireland,  with  the  Solornon  Isles. 

4.  Nevv-Caledonia,  and  the  New-Hebudes. 

5.  New-Zealand. 

6.  The  large  island  called  Van  Diemen's  Land,  recently  discov- 
ered to  be  separated  from  Now-Hoiiand  by  a  strait,  or  rather  chan- 
nel, called  Bass's  strait. 


I.  NEW-HOLLAND. 

Some  suppose  that  this  extensive  region,  when  moie  thoroughly 
investigated,  will  be  found  to  consist  of  two,  three,  or  more  vast 
islands,  intersected  by  narrow  seas.  However  this  be,  the  most  I'e- 
cent  and  authentic  charts  still  indicate  New-Holland  as  a  countiy 
fully  entitled  to  the  appellation  of  a  continent.  The  length  from 
E.  to  W.  is  about  2730  miles.  The  breadth  1960  miles.  Europe,, 
the  smallest  of  the  ancient  continents,  is  supposed  to  be  about  330O 
Hiiles  in  its  utmost  length,  and  its  greatest  breadth  2350.  New- 
Jlolland,  appears,  therefore,  to  be  a  quarter  less  than  Europe. 

The  Dutch  are  regarded  by  Des  Brosses,  as  the  chief  discover- 
ers of  Australasia,  between  the  year  1616  and  1644.* 

The  eastern  coast  having  been  carefully  examined  by  Cook, 
was  formally  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of  the  king  of  Great 
Biitain,  1770.  On  the  close  of  the  American  war,  it  being  diflicuii 
to  select  a  proper  place  of  transportation  for  criminals  sentenced 
to  that  pr.i.ishmtnt  by  the  laws  of  their  country,  this  new  territory- 
was  ar  kngth  preferred,  in  1786,  and  the  first  ship  sailed  fion. 
Spithead  on  i^n  GOih.  Jariuary,  1787,  and  arrived  on  the  20ih  of  the 
same  ntonth  in  t!ie  foiicwing  year.  Botany  Bay  being  found  to  b(,- 
a  staiJoi;  of  intciior  advantages  to  what  were  e:a)ected,  ar^d  no  spot 
appearing  proper  for  tlic  colony,  it  was  immeniately  resolved  by 
govcrnoi"  Phillip  to  transfer  it  to  another  excellent  inlet,  about  1;? 
Qiilea  farther  to  the  r.orth,  called  Port  Jackson,  en  the  south  side  --. 

*  Dcs  Erosses,  i.  42C. 


AUSTRALASIA.  6ir> 

which,  at  a  spot  called  Sidney  Cove,  this  settlement  is  now  fixed. 
Port  Jackson  is  one  of  the  noblest  harbors  in  the  world,  cxtcndinp; 
about  14  miles  in  length,  with  numerous  creeks  or  coves. 

Divifiion.  The  name  of  Cumberland  county  is  given  by  the. 
government  to  the  settlement  at  SidncL/  Cove.  It  is  about  50  miles 
m  lenj^th,  and  30  in  breadth.  The  chief  place  of  settlement,  is  at 
Sidney  Cove,  near  the  centre,  where  a  town  has  lieen  regularly  laid 
out,  and  built.  The  principal  streets  are  200  feet  wide.  The  cli- 
mate is  said  to  be  equal  to  the  finest  in  Europe. 

Inhabitants.  The  inhabitants  on  the  E.  coast  are  merely  divided 
into  families,  the  senior  beiuLa^  styled  Bu-ana,  or  father.  Each  fam- 
ily or  tribe  has  a  piuiicular  place  of  residence,  and  is  distinguibhed 
by  adding  g'al  to  the  name  of  the  place  ;  thus  the  soutiicrn  shore 
of  Botany  Bay  is  called  Gwea,  and  the  tribe  there  Gwea-gal.  No 
religion  whatever  is  known,  thougii  they  have  a  faint  idea  of  a  fu- 
ture existence,  and  think  their  people  return  to  the  clouds,  whence 
they  originally  fell.  They  are  of  a  low  stature,  and  ilFniade.  Some. 
are  nearly  as  black  as  African  negroes,  while  others  exb.iint  a  cop- 
per or  Malay  color,  but  the  haii'  is  long,  not  woolly  like  the  Afri- 
can. Their  noses  are  flat,  nostrils  wide,  sunk  eyes,  thick  brows 
and  lips,  with  a  mouth  of  prodigious  width,  but  the  teeth  white  and 
even. 

The  huts  are  most  rudely  constructed  of  the  bark  of  trees,  in  thu 
form  of  an  oven,  the  fire  being  at  the  entrance. 

Climate  and  Seasons.  From  its  situation,  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  equator,  the  seasons  are  like  those  of  the  southern  part  of  Afri- 
ca and  America,  the  reverse  of  those  in  Europe  ;  the  sunmier  cor- 
responding with  our  winter,  and  the  spring  with  autumn.  Mi-. 
Collins  found  the  weather  in  December  very  hot,  but  the  climaio 
■was  allowed  to  be  fine  and  salubrious.  The  rains  were  heavy,  ap- 
pearing to  fall  chiefly  about  the  full  and  change  of  uie  moon  ;  and 
at  intervals  there  were  storms  of  thunder  and  lightning. 

J^ace  of  the  Count?-!/.  It  would  be  idle  to  attempt  any  delinea- 
tion of  the  general  aspect  of  this  country.  The  small  portion 
known  seems  hilly,  but  not  mountamous.  The  soil  around  Botany- 
Bay  is  black  and  fat,  and  fertile  of  plants,  whence  the  name  atose. 

Rivers  and  Mountains.  Concerning  the  rivers,  lakes,  and  moun-, 
tains  of  New-Holland  there  is  little  information.  Nepean  river  in 
New-South-Wales,  is  34  miles  S.  W.  of  Port  Hunter,  and  46  from 
the  town  of  Paramatta.  The  Paramatta  river  passes  tlse  town  of 
this  name,  which  is  the  residence  of  the  missionary,  and  is  a  flour- 
ishing place.  A  chain  of  mountains  is  said  to  run  N.  and  S.  be- 
tween 30  and  60  miles  inland,  but  not  easily  accessible  on  account 
of  numerous  deep  ravines. 

Islands.  J\'orfolk  Island  lies  in  S.  lat.  29  4,  E.  lon.*6S  12  ;  at 
the  distance  of  iCOO  miles  N.  E.  of  Port  Jackson,  containing  I  1,000 
acres  of  an  excellent  soil  ;  it  is  7  leagues  iu  circumference,  dis- 
covered by  Capt.  Cook,  in  1774.  The  island  is  very  hiily.  The 
highest  peak,  named  Mount  Pitt,  is  1200  feet  high.  The  ciiiTs 
round  the  coast  are  240  feet  perpendicular.  In  February,  178S, 
$6  persons  from  the  Ncw-Iiolland  cclQ.ny  took  pciscssion  of  ihiij 


«M  AUSTRALASIA. 

kland,  wliich  was  inhabited,  with  a  view  to  cultivate  maize,  wheat, 
iind  particiihiily  the  flax  plant. 

SW'fiean  Inland  is  opposite  Port  Hunter,  on  th-e  S.  coast  of  Nor- 
folk. Island.  It  is  a  mass  of  sand,  surrounded  by  a  border  of  hard 
i-oclvs.  Tlie  surface  is  covered  with  coarse  grass,  and  upwards  of 
200  line  pines  arc  growing  on  it. 


II.  PAPUA,  OR  NEW-GUINEA. 

This  country  is  still  far  from  being  completely  investigated,  but 
is  conceived  to  be  a  vast  island,  extending  more  than  1200  miles  in 
length  by  a  medial  breadth  of  perhaps  300,  and  thus  far  superior  in 
bize'to  Borneo,  formerly  reputed  the  largest  of  islands. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  northern  parts  are  called  Papous,  whence 
the  name  of  the  country.  They  are  black,  and  even  said  to  have 
the  woolly  hair  of  negroes  ;  but  this  last  circumstance  will  proba- 
bly be  discovered,  as  in  New-Holland,  to  proceed  from  art,  and  in 
some  parts  it  would  seem  that  the  inliabitants  have  the  true  Malay 
complexion  and  features.  In  the  interior  is  a  race  called  Harafor- 
as,  who  live  in  trees,  which  they  ascend  by  a  notclicd  pole,  draw- 
ing it  after  them  to  prevent  surprise. 

The  religious  tenets  of  the  Papuans  have  been  little  examined, 
They  make  tombs  of  the  rude  coral  rock,  sometimes  with  sculp- 
tures. The  chief  commerce  is  with  the  Ch.inese,  from  whom  they 
purchase  their  instruments  and  utensils.  Their  returns  are  am- 
bergris, tortoise-shell,  small  pearls,  birds  of  paradise,  and  other 
birds  which  the  Papuans  dry  with  great  skill.  Some  slaves  are 
also  exported,  probably  captives  taken  in  intestine  wars. 

The  coasts  of  Papua  aie  generally  lofty,  and,  inland,  mountain 
rises  above  mountain,  richly  clothed  with  woods. 

Captain  Forrest,  to  wh.om  we  are  indebted  for  an  interesting 
voyage  in  these  seas,  only  visited  the  harbor  of  Dory  in  the  north- 
ern part  of  Papua,  so  that  oin*  knowledge  of  this  large  islarid  re- 
mains extremely  imperfect.  He  observed  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, the  mountains  of  Arlac  of  a  remarkable  height.  Near  the 
harbor  of  Dory  he  found  in  some  little  isles  abundance  of  nutmeg 
:rees,  and  there  is  room  to  infer  that  the  land  of  Papua  is  not  des- 
titute of  the  same  productions,  and  may  perhaps  also  boast  ^i 
-cloves. 

Some  rf  the  small  adjacent  islands  are  better  known  than  the 
main  land  of  P.ipu:\ 

M'uijoo,  or  IVadjoG^  is  an  isle  of  considerable  size,  and  is  said 
;o  contain  i.yo,00;.j  inhabitants.  The  land  :s  high  with  lofty  moun- 
tains and  on  tiie  nosth  side  are  two  excellent  haibors,  Piapis  and 
Otfak.* 

iiQLtvatti  is  also  a  populous  island,  governed  by  a  raja.  The 
2)Cople  cf  tlchc  tv.o  large  islands  rescn^.ble  those  of  the  main  land 
bfPapiu;. 

*  Sf e  Torrest's  voyaj?  and  the  chart. 


AUSTRALASIA.  61  n 

Timorlaut  is  another  Papaun  island  of  considerable  size,  but  of 
•ithich  there  is  no  particular  account.  The  Arroo  islands  appear, 
in  Arrowsmith's  chart  divided  into  five  by  intervcniiii^  straits. 

On  the  N.  of  the  main  land  of  Fapua  are  the  isles  of  Myaonj  and 
Jobi,  with  several  others  of  smaller  consequence. 


III.  NEW-BRITAIN,  AND  NEW-IRELAND,  WITH  THE 
SOLOMON  AND  NAVIGATORS'  ISLES. 

New-Britain  was  first  explored  and  named  by  Dampier,  that 
navit^ator  havini^  passed  a  stiait,  to  which  his  name  is  given,  be- 
tween this  country  and  Papua.  In  1767  Captain  Carteret  passed 
throut^h  a  channel  between  New-Britain  and  New-Ireland,  wliich 
last  is  a  longj  slip  of  land  stretching  from  N.  W.  to  S.  E.  ;  and  it 
is  also  probable  that  New-Britain  may  be  found  to  be  divided  into 
two  or  more  islands  In  these  parts  the  nutmeg  tree  is  found' 
abundant,  being  perhaps  the  most  remote  region  towards  the  easty 
of  that  valuable  plant. 

Inhabitants.  Captain  Carteret  found  the  natives  of  New-Ire- 
land very  hostile,  having  lances  headed  with  flint.  Their  faces 
were  streaked  with  white,  and  their  hair  dabbed  with  powder  of 
the  same  color.  They  are  black  and  said  to  be  woolly  headed» 
but  without  the  thick  lips  or  flat  nose  of  the  negro.  Some  of  the 
canoes  of  New-Ireland  were  ninety  feet  in  length  formed  out  of 
a  single  tree.  Bougainville  also  visited  this  country,  and  observ- 
ed here  the  pepper  plant,  while,  among  the  numerous  birds,  wai 
the  great  crowned  pigeon. 

Tlie  Solomon  islands,  as  laid  down  in  Mr.  Arrowsmith's  chart. 
of  the  Pacific,  mav  be  considered  as  a  large  grouj),  extendinq- 
fi'om  lord  Anson's  isle,  or  the  Bouka  of  Bougainville,  in  the  N. 
W.  to  the  isle  called  Egmont  by  Carteret  in  the  S.  E.  Some  ot 
the  islands,  towards  the  centre,  seem  of  considerable  size.  " 

JVavigators'  Inlands.,  are  a  cluster  of  islands  in  the  S.  Pacifie. 
Ocean.     Lon.  189  W.  lat.  14   19  S.* 


IV.  NEW-CALEDONIA,  AND  THE  NEW-HEBUDES. 

New-Caledonia  is  a  large  islaiul,  the  southern  part  of  which  in 
particular  has  been  little  explored.  The  natives  are  said  to  be  a 
muscular  race,  of  a  deep  brown  complexion,  resembling  those  ot 
New-Zealand. 

The  north  western  part  of  this  large  island  was  explored  by  Cap- 
tain Cook,  who  says  that  this  district  was  called  LJalade. 

Among  the  Nt  w-Hebudcs  Captain  Cook  has  given  the  mosi: 
particular  account  ol  Mallicollo  in  the  north,  and  Tanna  in  the 
SJouth. 

*  PcTTOBse.- 


Ql$  AUSTRALASIA. 


V.  NEW-ZEALAND. 


This  country  .was  first  discovered  by  Tasman  in  1 642.  Cook 
explored  them  in  1770,  and  discovered  a  straight  which  divides 
the  country  into  two  large  islands.  The  first  is  not  less  than  600 
miles  in  length,  by  about  150  in  medial  breadth  ;  and  the  second 
is  little  inferior  in  size.  The  natives  were  observed  tq  be  ol"  a 
brown  comjjlexion,  little  deeper  than  the  iipanish,  and  some  are 
even  fair.  So  far  as  present  discoveries  extend  the  natives  of  N^iv- 
Hoiland  and  Papau  seem  to  display  an  AlVican  origin  ;  while  most 
of  the  other  islands  in  the  Pacific  appear  to  have  been  peopled 
from  Asia. 

JManners  and  Customs.  The  New-Zealanders  inter  their  dead. 
Suicide  is  very  common.  The  flax  of  New-Zealand  has  excited 
particular  attention,  being  of  a  beautiful  silky  appearance,  and  the 
plant  remarkably  tall. 

T))o  general  dress  is  an  oblong  garment  made  by  knotting  the 
silky  flax  ;  and  the  ears  are  ornamented  with  bits  of  jad  or  bads, 
the  face  being  often  besmeared  with  a  red  paint,  seemingly  iron 
ochre  mingled  with  grease.  The  habitations  are  far  superior  to 
those  in  New-Holland  :  and  the  boats  are  well  built  of  plvMiks, 
raised  upon  each  other,  and  fastened  with  strong  withes.  Some 
are  fifty  feet  long,  and  so  broad  as  to  be  able  to  sail  without  an  out- 
rigger, but  the  smaller  sort  commonly  have  one,  and  they  often 
fasten  two  together  by  rafters.  The  large  canoes  will  carry  thirty 
men  or  more  j  and  have  often  a  head  ingeniously  carved. 

Mount  Edgecumbe  is  a  prodigious  high  peak,  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  er.irance  of  Cook's  strait  in  New-Zealand. 


VI.  VAN  DIEMEN'S  LAND. 

This  is  the  last  great  division  yet  discovered  of  the  wide  ex- 
panse of  Australasia.  The  name  was  imposed  by  that  eminent 
Dutch  navigator  FusmCin,  as  already  mentioned,  in  honor  of  the 
Dutch  governor-general  in  the  East  Indies.*  It  has  bten  recently 
discovered  to  be  an  island,  in  the  form  of  an  oblonij  square,  about 
160  miles  in  length  by  half  that  breadth,  being  divided  from  New- 
Holland  by  a  strait,  or  rather  channel,  more  than  thii  ty  leagues 
v.-ide,  which  in  recent  maps  is  called  Bass's  strait,  and  contains  a 
chain  of  small  islands  running  N.  an.!  S.  During  his  last  voyage, 
Captain  Cook,  in  January  1777,  visiied  Diemen's  land  for  supplies 
of  v.ood  and  water,  and  grass  far  the  aiiimals  on  board.  They 
were  met  by  some  of  the  natives,  who  were  entirely  naked  ;    of  a 

*  There  is  another  Van  Diemen's  Land,  a  nor'hern  cape  of  New-Holland. 
Such  duplicate  names  are  injurious  to  tiie  study  of  geography,  and  ought  to  be 
formally  abrogated,  if  a  Board  of  Nomenclature,  so  much  wanted,  were  in- 
stituted. The  southern  Van  Diemen's  Land,  on  one  of  the  isles  of  New-Zea- 
land, should  be  called  'I'asniania,  in  honor  of  the  discoverer. 


POLYNESIA.  617 

ti-smmcn  statute,  but  rather  slender,  the  skin  being  black,  and  the 
iiair  as  woolly  as  that  of  any  native  of  Guinea,  but  their  lineaments 
were  more  pleasing  than  those  of  African  negroes.  The  hair  and 
beards,  and  of  some  the  faces,  were  smeared  with  red  ointment. 


POLYNESIA, 

THE  boundaries  of  this  extensive  division  of  the  globe  have  al- 
"ready  been  mentioned.  The  following  appear  to  be  the  chief  sub- 
divisions. 

1.  The  Pelew  Isles. 

2.  The  Ladrones,  a  chain  extending  in  a  northerly  direction, 
the  small  islands  in  tb.e  Pacific  seeming  to  be  mostly  the  summits 
of  ranges  or  groups  of  mountains. 

3.  The  Carolines,  a  long  range  from  E.  lo  W.  so  as  perhaps,  ia 
strictness,  to  include  the  Pclev/s. 

4.  The  Sandwich  Isles. 

5.  The  Marquesas. 

6.  The  Society  Isles,  so  named  in  honor  of  the  Royal  Society. 

7.  The  Friendly  Isles. 

There  are,  besides,  many  isles  scattered  in  different  directions? 
which  it  would  be  difficult  to  connect  witli  any  group,  and  indeed 
none  of  them,  yet  discovered,  appears  to  be  of  any  consequence. 


I.  THE  PELEW  ISLES. 

This  group  lying  between  Ion.  130  and  136  E.  and  lat.  5  and  9 
N.  recently  attracted  considerable  attention,  from  an  ingenious 
and  pieasing  account  of  them,  drawn  up  by  Mr.  Keate,  from  the 
papers  of  captain  Wils«n,  who  suffered  shipwreck  on  these  islands 
in  1783. 

The  Pelewans  are  a  stout  well  made  people,  rather  above  the 
middle  stature.  Their  complexions  are  not  quite  black,  and  their 
hair  long  and  flowing.*  The  men  are  eniiicly  naked,  while  the 
women  only  wear  two  little  apronB,  or  rather  fringes,  made  of  the 
husks  of  the  cocoa  nut.  Both  sexes  are  tatooed,  and  the  leclh  are 
died  black.  Polygamy  is  allowed,  and  the  dead  are  interred.  There 
seems  no  appearance  of  religion  of  any  kind  though  tlicy  have  an 
idea  that  the  soul  survives  the  body.  Mild,  affable,  and  industrious, 
this  little  tribe,  like  the  inhabitants  of  Otaheite,  form  an  exception 
to  the  general  rule  of  savage  existence.  The  language  is  probably 
a  dialect  of  the  Malay,  so  v.idcly  diffused  through  these  seas. 

The  government  is  in  the  haii  Js  of  a  king,  under  whom  there  are 
ru/iaks,  or  chiefs,  who  also  cpns-'dtute  a  kind  of  nobles.  Our  do- 
mestic poultry  are  here  wild  in  the  woods,  and  were  neglected  by 
?he   natives  till  tauj;ht  by   the  English  that  they  Were   proper  f«V 

•  Kestt,  318. 
7« 


618  POLYNESIA. 

food.  Their  chief  nourishment  appears  to  be  fish  ;  but  they  hiak^ 
a  kind  of  sweemeat  from  the  sugar  cane,  which  seems  indigenous^- 
The  chief  drink  is  the  milk  of  the  cocoa  nut. 

These  isles  had  scarcely  been  visited  by  any  European  till  capt.' 
Wilson  landed  at  Oloolong.  They  are  in  general  of  a  moderate 
height,  wen  covered  with  wood  ;  and  are  circled  on  the  west  side 
by  a  reef  of  coral,  from  2  to  6  leagues  from  the  shore,  and  of  great 
length.  The  ebony  tree  is  found  in  the  forests,  and  the  bread  fruit 
and  cocoa  tree  abound,  with  sugar-canes  and  bamboos.  No  kind 
of  grain  was  seen,  nor  any  quadrupeds,  except  some  rats  in  the 
woods,  and  3  or  4  cats  in  the  houses,  probably  drifted  ashore  fron% 
some  wreck.  Of  birds,  pigeons  seem  the  most  numerous :  and  the. 
wild  poultry  have  been  already  mentioned. 


II.   THE  LADRONES. 

This  appellation  implies  the  Isles  of  Robbers,  and  was  given  by 
that  distinguished  navigator  Magalhaens,  who  first  discovered 
these  islands  in  1521. 

According  to  the  Jesuit  Gobien,  who  has  published  a  particular 
history  of  the  Ladrones,  or  Marian  Islands,*  the  inhabitants,  till  the 
arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  regarded  themselves  as  the  only  men  in 
the  world.  When  they  were  visited  by  the  Spaniards  and  Dulch^ 
they  infei'red  that  these  strangers  were  brethren,  who  had  lost  the 
primitive  Guamese  language.  In  color,  speech,  manners,  and  gov- 
ernment, they  considerably  resemble  the  people  of  the  Philippines. 
These  isles  were  then  very  populous,  Guam,  iii  40  leagues  of  cir- 
cuit, having  S0,000  inhabitants. 

The  Ladrones  are  12  or  14  in  number  ;  but  not  above  3  or  4  arc 
inhabited.  Their  vessels,  called  flying  proas,  have  been  esteemed 
singular  specimens  of  naval  architecture. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Ladrones  are  many  small  islands,  extending  to 
Todos  Los  Santos,  lat.  30,  those  farther  to  the  N.  belonging  to 
Japan. 

Liquor  is  an  island  in  the  western  ocean,  so  named  by  the  com- 
panions of  Benyowski,  wbo  landed  here  in  1771,  in  a  most  perish- 
ing condition,  without  water  or  provisions.  They  found  excellent 
water,  fowls,  fish,  and  hogs  ;  also  cocoa,  orange,  and  banana  trees. 
It  is  a  pleasant  island.  Benyowski  set  up  a  cross  here,  with  an  in- 
scription, lat.  34  47  N.f 


IlL  THE  CAROLINES. 

This  is  the  largest  group,  or  rather  the  most  extensive  range  oi 
islands  in  the  Pacific  ocean.  Theyare  about  30  in  niimber,  and 
very  populous,  except  3  which  were  uninhabited.  The  natives  re- 
semble those  of  the  Philippines,  and  chiefly  live  upon  fish  and  co- 

*  Paris,  1700,  12mo.  f  Benyowski. 


POLYNESIA.  «1» 

-coa  nuts  :  and  it  is  probable  that  their  langua^  only  differs  in  a 
few  shades.  According  to  the  letters  of  the  Jesuits,  each  isle  was 
subject  to  its  chief,  but  all  respected  a  monarch,  vrho  resided  at  La- 
murec. 

The  people  of  Ulea  are  reported  to'  be  more  civilized  than  the 
rest,  and  appear  much  to  resemble  those  of  the  Pelews. 

The  most  considerable  of  the  Carolines  is  Hogolen^  about  9a 
miles  in  length  by  40  in  breadth.  Next  is  Fa/;,  in  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  this  chain,  but  not  above  a  third  part  of  that  size. 


IV.  THE  SANDWICH  ISLES. 

'These  islands  appear  to  have  been  first  discovered  by  Cook,  and 

the   island   Owhyhee,  the   largest  in  the  group,  being  about  280 

■miles  in  circumference,  is  unfortunately  disiinguished  as  the  place 

where  this  able  commander  was  slain  by  the  natives  in  February, 

1779. 

These  islands  were  so  named  by  Cook  in  gratitude  to  the  earl  of 
Sandwich,  a  mimster  who  had  warmly  promoted  his  laboi's.  The 
natives  are  rather  of  a  -darker  complexion  than  those  of  Otaheite, 
but  the  featijres  are  pleasing  j  and  the  death  of  Cook  v/as  not  ow- 
ing to  ferocity,  but  a  sudden  impulse  of  undeserved  resentment. 
The  hair  is  sometimes  long,  sometimes  curled,  as  among  Europe- 
ans. 

The  climate  appears  to  be  more  temperate  than  that  of  the 
West-Indies  ;  and  in  Owhyhee  the  mountains  arrest  the  clouds, 
and  produce  rain  inland,  while  there  is  sunshine  on  the  shore.  The 
■winds  seem  generally  easterly,  and  there  is  a  regular  land  and  sea 
breeze. 

Owhyhee  is  the  largest  island  yet  found  in  the  wid«  extent  of 
'Polynesia, 


V.  THE  MARQUESAS. 

These  islands  were  discovered  by  Mendana.  One  of  the  bes<. 
known  to  Europeans  is  the  isle  of  Ohittahoo,  to  the  S.  of  the  larger 
isle  Ohevahoa. 

In  1774  the  Marquesas  were  visited  by  capt.  Cook,  and  in  1789 
by  the  French  circumnavigator  Marchand.  The  best  recent  ac- 
sount  of  them  is  that  given  in  the  Missionary  Voyage,  capt.  Wil- 
son having  visited  the  Marquesas  in   1797. 

The  natives  ai*e  said  to  surpass  ail  other  nations  in  symmetry  of 
shape,  and  regularity  of  features  ;  and  were  it  not  for  the  pi'actice 
of  tatoeing,  which  blackens  the  body  by  numerous  punctures,  the 
■•  complexion  would  be  only  tawney,  while  the  hair  is  of  many  colors, 
but  none  red.  Some  of  the  women  are  nearly  as  fair  as  Europe- 
ans, and  among  them  tatooing  is  not  so  universal.* 

*  Mi9stoD2ry  Voyage,  L«adon,  1799,  4to.  p.  14*. 


«25  POLYNESIA. 

The  largest  isle  of  (he  Marquesas,  Noabeva,  is  not  above  hali 
die  size  of  Otaheiie  :  and  in  general  the  multitude  of  small  islands 
in  these  seas  presents  a  wonderful  variety  in  the  works  of  rtatiire. 


VI.  THE  SOCIETY  ISLES. 

All  the  islands  from  longitude  160  west  from  Greenwieh,  to  the 
eastern  extremity  of  Polynesia,  may  be  included  under  the  general 
name  of  Society  Islands,  a  ranj^e  which  will  thus  even  exceed  the 
Carolines  in  number,  amounting  to  60  or  70.  Of  these,  Otaheite  is 
«tiU  by  far  the  most  considerable  in  size,  being  about  120  miles  in 
circumference. 

The  natural  color  of  the  inhabitants  is  olive,  inclining;  to  copper. 
Men  exposed  to  the  sun  become  very  dark  ;  but  the  women  arc 
enly  a  shade  or  two  deeper  than  an  European  brunette.  They 
have  fine  black  eyes,  with  white  even  teeth,  soft  skin,  and  elegant: 
limbs  ;  while  their  hair  is  of  a  jetty  black,  perfumed  and  ornament- 
ed with  flowers. 

Their  voice  and  speech  are  soft  and  harmonious  ;  and  their  dia° 
lect  is  tlie  Italian  of  the  Pacific  ocean.  Their  rude  manufactures 
are  truly  wonderful,  and  evince  the  greatest  ingenuity.  Their 
dwellings  are  about  IS  feet  in  length,  with  a  few  articles  of  furni- 
ture, such  as  trays,  baskets,  mats,  and  a  large  chest. 

Their  deities  are  numerous ;  each  family  having  its  Tee,  or 
guardian  spirit,  whom  they  worship  at  tlie  Moral ;  but  they  have  a 
great  god,  or  gods  of  a  superior  order,  styled  Fvi^hanow  Po,  or  the 
progeny  of  night. 

The  chief  harbor  of  Otaheite  is  Matavai,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
island  ;  but  there  is  another  of  similar  note  in  the  S.  E.  called  Lan- 
garas. 

The  next  island  in  size  is  Uiitea  :  and  the  others  of  this  group> 
are  of  far  inferior  dimensions  to  Otaheite. 

As  an  appendage  to  this  article,  some  account  may  be  added  of 
Easter  Island,  a  detached  and  remote  region,  which,  however,  so 
iar  as  the  discoveries  yet  extend, seems  rather  to  belong  to  Polyne- 
sia than  to  South-America.  This  isle  appears  to  have  been  first 
seen  by  Davis  in  1686;  and  was  afterwards  visited  by  Cook  and. 
La  Perouse.  It  is  of  a  triangula*  form,  the  longest  side  being 
about  2  J  miles  in  length,  and  at  one  extremity  there  appears  to  have 
been  a  volcano.  The  natives  are  very  industrious,  and  plaivt  paper- 
mulberries,  and  bananas,  with  regular  fields  of  potatoes  and  yams, 
Tliey.  have  the  same  language  and  features  with  the  other  natives- 
.<f  Polynesia. 


VII.   THE  FPJENDLY  ISLES, 

This  group  e:itends  chiefly  from  S.  W.  to  N.  E.  including  tlic 
Feejee  Isles,  those  called  the  Isles  of  Navigators,  and  several  de 
tacbcd  ides  in  a  more  northcny  position.    The  name  was  impc*!e$l 


POLYNESIA.  681 

hj  capt.  Cook,  in  tchiimony  of  the  disposition  of  ti»c  people  ;  hut 
they  liacl  been  discovered  by  Tasman  in  1643,  who  cr.Ued  the  cliief 
isle,  now  styled  by  the  native  term  Tongataboo,  by  the  nariK  of 
Amsterdam. 

The  length  of  Tonojataboo  is  only  about  16  miles,  by  about  8  at 
its  greatest  breadth.  On  the  north  side  there  is  a  lagoon,  with  sev- 
eral isles,  constituting  a  tolerable  harbor.  The  commodities  are, 
as  usual,  hogs,  bread  fruit,  cocoa  nuts,  and  yams. 

To  tlie  N.  W.  are  the  Fejee  isles^  which  the  English  missiona- 
ries discovered  to  be  now  subject  to  Tongataboo. 

From  the  accounts  of  La  Perouse  it  would  appear  that  the  isles 
discovered  by  Bougainville  in  1768,  and  by  him  called  the  Islands 
of  .Yavi^ators,  are  by  far  the  most  important  in  this  large  group. 
The  largest  of  tliese  islands,  which  he  calls  Pola,  is  about  37  geo- 
graphical miles  in  length,  by  about  half  that  breadth.  Next  in  po- 
sitiun  from  W.  to  E.  are  Oyolava,  Maouna,  and  Opoun.  If  ths 
accounts  of  La  Perouse  be  not  greatly  exaggerated,  the  Islands  of 
Navigators  constitute  the  most  important  group  yet  discovered  in 
southern  Polynesia,  in  regard  to  fertility  and  population. 

According  to  La  Perouse  the  island  of  Oyolava  is  at  least  equal 
to  Otaheite,  m  beauty,  extent,  fertility,  and  population  ;  and  he 
supposes  that  this  isle,  with  the  larger  isle  of  Pola,  and  that  of  Ma- 
ouna, contain  4U0,o00  inhabitants.*  Such  is  the  abundance  of 
provisions,  that  at  Maouna  500  hogs,  and  an  immense  quantity  of 
fruit  were  procured  in  24  hours.  The  natives  of  Oyoia\  a  are  also 
of  great  stature  ;  and  here  was  observed  the  largest  village  in  ail 
Polynesia,  smoking  like  a  city,  v/hile  the  sea  was  covered  with  ca- 
noes. Though  the  people  be  remarkable  for  a  ferocity  of  charac- 
ter, scarcely  to  be  observed  in  any  other  part  of  Polynesia,  they  arc 
still  industi'iouo  and  ingenious,  polishing  their  wooden  works  very 
highly,  with  tools  made  of  basalt.  They  have  not  only  the  baric 
cloth,  but  a  kind  composed  of  real  thread,  probably  from  flax,  rer 
sembling  that  of  New-Zealand.  Their  speech  was  understood  by 
a  native  of  the  Philippines,  being  derived  from  the  Pvlalay,  a  lan- 
guage diffused  through  all  the  scattered  isles  of  Polynesia. 

The  Islands  of  Navigators  are  covered  with  fruit  trees  of  wrious 
descriptions,  in  which  wood  pigeons  and  turtle  doves  swarm,  and 
to  tame  them  is  a  favorite  amusement  of  the  natives. 


OPARO    ISLAND. 

This  island  was  discovered  by  Vancouver,  December,  1794,  is 
\n  the  Pacific  ocean,  lat.  27  36  S.  Ion.  144  E.  and  is  18  miles  in 
circumference.  The  shores  are  sniooth,  covered  with  verdure  to 
the  water's  edge.     A  range  of  high  craggy  mountains  extends 

•La  Perouse,  414.  So  Cook  over-rated  the  people  of  Otaheite,  now  ajcer- 
taJned  to  be  only  16,000.  Miss.  Voy.  Forster,  Obs.  219,  sagely  argues  that 
Otaheite  contains  at  least  160,000.  In  like  manner  La  Perouse's  400,000  may 
probably  be  40,000.  It  it  probable  that  there  arc  not  300,000  souls  in  ell  Ahs- 
^aluiia  aad  Poiyoe$iib 


€32  AFRICA. 

vicross  this  is'aricl,  bearing  the  resemblance  of  vast  fortifications,  anS 
at  a  distance  exhibit  a  very  romaAtic  appearance.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  is  about  1500  ;  they  are  of  middling  stature,  well  made  ; 
their  countenance  is  open  and  cheerful,  and  indicates  a  disposition 
■'j^ivcn  to  hospitality.  A  fashion  prevails  among  them  of  cutting 
their  hair  short.  Their  only  clothing  is  a  lar^e  green  leaf  of « 
^lant,  tied  about,  the  waist.* 


% 


AFRICA. 


AFRICA  is,  in  size,  the  third  of  the  four  great  quarters  of  the 
a-fiobe  ;  being  less  than  America  or  Asia,  and  larger  than  Europe. 
It  lies  between  lat.  37  18  N.  and  34  50  S. ;  and  between  Ion.  17 
G3  W.  and  51°  E.  Its  length,  from  N.  to  S.  is  4990  miles.  Its 
greatest  breadth  is  4600. 

On  the  N.  lies  the  Mediterranean;  on  the  E.  the  isthmus  of 
Suez,  the  Red  sea,  and  the  Indian  ocean  ;  on  the  S.  the  Southern 
ocean,  and  the  gulf  of  Guinea  ;  and  on  the  W.  and  N.  W.  the  At- 
lantic. 

The  religion  of  Mahomet  is  professed  in  the.Barbary  states,  in 
l^gypt,  Sennaar,  and  the  coast  of  Ajan,  It  is  also  the  religion  of 
ihe  tribes  of  the  desert ;  and  of  all  the  Moors,  and  many  of  the  ne- 
groes, of  Soudan.  Christianity,  in  a  remarkably  corrupted  form, 
is  established  in  Abyssinia  ;  and  prevails  extensively  in  Egypt.  It 
was  long  since  introduced  by  the  Portuguese  on  the  coasts  of  Con- 
go and  Zanguebar.  Into  the  colony  of  the  Cape,  and  in  other  part* 
of  S.  Africa  it  has  lately  been  introduced  by  the  venerable  Vander- 
kemp,  and  other  missionaries. 

The  native  governments  of  this  continent  are  throughout  despot- 
ic and  oppressive.  All,  however,  appear  to  be  independent.  Egypt 
is  little  more  than  liominally  dependent  on  Turkey.  The  Cape  of 
Good  Hope  is  the  only  considerable  European  colony. 

We  have  heretofore  stated  the  population  at  50,000,000.  It 
«!oubtless  exceeds  this  number,  though  it  may  not  amount  to 
98,945,000,  which  is  Hassel's  estimate. 

Our  description  of  the  various  divisioivs  of  Africa  will  commenc« 
with  Morocco  in  the  N.  W.  and  proceed  along  the  coasts  of  the 
Mediterranean,  the  Red  sea,  the  Indian,  Southern,  and  Atlantic 
oceans,  and  will  conclude  with  some  account  of  the  states  in  th« 
interior  of  Soudan,  and  some  of  the  oases  of  the  desert.  The  ge- 
.<»graphy  of  the  African  islands  will  close  our  arduous  undertaking. 

*  VancoHver, 


S^INGDOM  Ot  MOROCCO.  gg.i 


KINGDOM  OF  MOROCCO. 

Sxtent.   THIS  kingdom  extends  on  the  Atlantic  coast  upwards- 
«f  630  miles,  and  on  the  Mediterranean  about  240.      Its  brcadilj 
near  the  middle  and  at  the  southern  extrenuty  is  about  350. 

Boundaries.  On  the  W.  is  the  AtUuuic  ;  on  the  N.  the  Medi- 
terranean ;  on  the  E.  Algiers,  the  desert  of  Angad,  and  Blcd-elje- 
rede  ;  and  on  the  S.  Sahara,  or  the  Great  Desert. 

Divisions.  The  dominions  of  the  emperor  of  IMorocco  are  com- 
prised under  four  divisions. 

1.  Northern  division,  or  kingdom  of'Fas. 

2.  Central  division,  or  kingdom  of  Morocco. 

3.  Southern  division,  or  kingdom  of  Terodant. 

4.  Eastern  division,  or  kingdom  of  Tafilelt. 

Original  Pofiuiution.  Numerous  colonies  of  Phc»;iiicians  wcrs 
early  planted  here.  Procopius  mentions  two  pillars  of  white  stone, 
sis  standing  there  in  his  time,  with  the  foHovving  inscription  in  the 
Phoenician  language  and  character  :  "  We  are  the  Canaanitcs,  luho 
Jled  Jrom  Joshua,  the  son  of  Nun,  that  notorious  robber." 

Religion.  The  religion  is  the  Mahometan.  Great  numbers  of 
Jews  arc  found  in  the  country,  but  they  are  oppressed. 

Governinent.  The  government  is  strictly  despotic,  the  whole 
ftower  over  life,  liberty,  and  property,  being  vested  in  the  emperor. 
The  only  written  laws  are  the  Koran,  and  the  comments  on  it. 

Pofiulation.  The  following  is  the  account  given  by  Jackson  of 
the  population  of  Morocco,  taken  from  the  Imperial  Register. 
The  estimate  is  given  first  of  the  larger  towns,  and  secondly  of  the 
provinces,  exclusive  of  those  towns. 


Province  of  Erreef,  A* 

200,000 

El  Garb,  A 

200,000 

Beni  Hassan,  A 

300,000 

Terasena  and  Shawia, 

A 

1.160,000 

District  of  Fas,  A 

1 ,280,000 

Large  towns  in  this  kingdom 

574,300 

Province  of  Duquella,  A 

o,7 1 4,^0x3 

966,000 

Abda>  A 

500,000 

Shedma,  A 

550,000 

Haha,  S 

708,000 

District  of  Morocco,  A  and  S" 

1,250,000 

Large  towns  in  Morocco 

295,000 

4,269,0^-.; 

Province  of  Draha,  S 

350,000 

Suse,  including  Lower  Suse,  S 

2,417,000 

Large  towns  in  Terodant,  S 

26,300 
-■ 2,79  3.30?,- 

•The  provinces  marked  A,  are  peopled  wholly,  or  chiefly;  wirfa  Aral»s< 
rhose  marked  S,  with  Shetluhs, 


rU  KINGDOM  OF  MOrScCO. 

Tafilclt,  A  650,ooa 

Tribes  oi"  Bercbbers  of  North  Atlas  3,000,000 


I4,88fc>j600 


This  population  is  divided  by  Jackson  into  four  classes,  Moors, 
Arabs,  Berebbers,  and  Shclluhs. 

Army.  The  army  amounts  to  36,000  men.  Of  these,  about  6000 
tonsutute  the  emperor's  body  guard,  3500  are  artillery,  and  the  rest 
arc  light  dragoons.  The  greater  part  of  t!ie  troops  are  negroes  and 
mulattoes.  Their  arms  arc  a  sabre,  a  long  musket,  a  small  red 
ieatlier  box  in  front  for  balls,  and  a  powder-horn  slung  over  their 
shoulders. 

Xa-uy.  The  na\y  consists  of  10  frigates,  of  from  16  to  30  guns, 
?.nd  14  galliots,  of  from  2  to  10  guns,  manned  by  6000  sailors. 
Tlicse  vessels  are  kept  for  piracy,  and  seldom  unite  in  a  fleet.  An 
admiral,  however,  has  the  command  of  them. 

R^enue.  The  revenue  amounts  to  more  than  a  million  of  dol- 
lars, ?ind  the  expenses  to  a  little  over  300,000  ;  of  which  180,000 
are  expended  on  the  army  and  navy. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  houses  of  the  Moors  have  flat 
roofs*"  covered  with  terrace,  a  composition  of  lime  and  small  stones. 
The  Arabs  live  in  tents.  They  are  restless  and  turbulent,  and 
their  clans,  are  frequently  at  war  with  each  other.  The  Berebbers 
also  live  in  tents.  They  are  a  hardy,  industrious  race,  and  are 
occupied  chiefly  in  husbandry,  and  the  rearing  of  bees.  The 
Shelluhs  live  in  towns,  are  occupied  in  husbandry,  live  chiefly  on 
barley,  and  are  a  small  meagre  people.  All  shades  of  complexions 
are  ibup.d  here. 

Lm2guages.  The  language  of  the  Moors  is  a  corrupt  Arabic, 
intermixed  with  Spanish.  That  of  the  Arabs  is  the  language  of 
the  Koran,  sprrifewhat  corrupted.  That  of  the  Berebbers  is  prob- 
ably tlie  language  of  the  ancient  Mauri,  which  was  a  kindred  dia- 
lect to  that  of  Nuniidia,  and  strongly  resembled  the  Phoenician. 
The  language  of  the  Shelluhs  is  different  from  all  the  others. 
AH  classes  are  extremely  ignorant. 

Cities.  Morocco  stands  in  a  fruitful  plain,  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  countiy,  about  120  miles  from  the  sea,  and  at  a  small  dis- 
tance from  a  Spur  of  Mount  Atlas.  The  houses  are  all  behind 
high  walls,  of  the  rudest  construction,  and  are  not  visible  from  the 
street.  Son\e  of  them  are  built  with  elegance  and  taste.  The 
jbalaoe  is  of  hewn  sIqj|)c,  ornamented  with  marble.  The  town  has 
numerous  mosques,  sanctuaries,  and  tem.ples.  The  population  of 
the  city  is,'  according  to  Jackson,  270,000.  About  2000  families 
of  Jews  reside  in  tlie  eastern  part  of  it.  Great  numbers  of  these 
people  have  emigrated  to  the  neighboring  mountains,  to  escape 
oppression.  The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  numerous 
springs  and  wells  in  the  suburbs.  The  days  of  summer  are  in- 
tensely hot  ;  the  nights  are  cool.  In  winter  the  cold  is^  sensibly 
ielt.  The  neig'aborinjj  Atlas  keeps  off  the  S/mmc,  or  hot  wind,  oJ' 
the  desert. 


-■"-^^^'^^^A^?^^^^^^^!^'^"  "!!^' ."l  Tff  Tb^fw^^'y" 


■*»»^i»»"*»»«»    M^'  »  ^C  M  ^r-1 


iCINGDOM  OF  MOROCCO.  ae^ 

r  AS,  or  Fez,  as  it  is  commonly  written,  is  divided  into  Old  and 
Vcw.  The  centre  of  Old  Fas  is  low,  and  in  the  winter  dirty.  The 
"^'cst  of  the  town  is  built  on  gentle  acclivities.  The  houses  are 
lofly  and  spacious.  They  all  have  flat  roofs,  on  which  carpets  are 
spread  in  the  summer  evenings.  The  number  of  mosques  is  very- 
great,  and  about  50  of  them  are  very  sumptuous  edifices,  ornament- 
ed with  a  most  beautiful  kind  of  marble,  unknown  in  Europe,  and 
procured  from  Mount  Atlas.  The  population  of  both  parts  of  the 
•town  is  stated  by  Jackson  at  380,000. 

Mequinas  stands  near  the  river  Seboo,  and  at  a  small  distance 
from  Fas,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  valley,  surrounded  by  gentle 
"^jminences.  The  streets  are  not  paved,  and  in  winter  are  almost 
impassable.  The  population  is  1 10,000.  The  inhabitants  ar<b 
generally  hospitabk.  Their  manners  are  more  mild  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  empire. 

Terodant,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Suse,  or 
Terodant,  is  now  the  metropolis  of  the  south.  It  is  extensive  and 
ancient.  There  is  a  noblt  palace  here,  adorned  with  gardens,  con- 
taining the  mo«t  d&licious  fruits.  The  population  is  25,000,  and 
was  formerly  far  greater. 

Rabat  is  a  seaport,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bu-Regreg,  on  its  south 
bank.  The  environs  abound  with  excellent  fruits.  The  walls 
are  about  2  miles  in  circuit,  and  are  strengthened  by  square  tow- 
ers.    The  houses  are  poorly  built.     The  population  is  25,000. 

Salee  is  a  walled  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  same  river,  on  the 
opposite  side  from  Rabat.  It  was  formerly  a  nursery  of  pirates, 
and  the  Salee  rovers  were  the  common  terror  of  all  ships  sailing 
near  the  coast.     The  population  is  18,000. 

Tetuan  stands  4  miles  from  the  Mediterranean,  a  little  S.  E.  of 
the  straits.  The  environs  abo'jnd  with  the  most  delicious  fruits. 
Its  oranges  are  celebrated.     Its  population  is  16,000. 

Saffee,  or  AsPEE,  is  S.  of  Cape  Cantin,  between  two  bills, 
"which  render  the  town  intolerably  hot  in  summer,  and  in  winter 
very  disagreeable.     Population  12,000. 

MuLEY  Dris  Zerone  is  an  inland  town,  east  of  Mequinas,  a- 
mong  the  mountains,  and  contains  12,000  inhabitants. 

MoGODOR,  or  Suerah,  about  70  miles  S.  W.  of  Saffee,  on  a  low 
flat  desert  of  accumulating  sand.  The  harbor  is  formed  by  a  little 
island  2  miles  in  circumference  lying  S.  of  the  town.  Between 
this  and  the  main  land  ships  anchor,  but  there  is  only  12  feet  wa- 
ter at  low  tide.  The  houses  are  all  of  sione  and  white,  and  look 
beautifully  from  the  sea.  The  stre£ts  cross  each  other  at  right  an- 
gles and  ai'c  narrow.  The  hou-es  have  few  windows  towards  the 
street.  Tl'.ost;  of  the  foreign  merchants  are  the  most  spacious  and 
elegant.     Popuhtiion  10,000. 

Tangier,  is  near  the  west  mouth  of  the  straits,  a  few  miles  from 
Cape  Spartel.  The  inhabitants  are  6000  in  number.  Tliey  sup- 
ply Gibraltar  with  provisions. 

Manufactures  and    Commerce.     Morocco  leather,  both  of  goat 
and  calfskins,  is   made  extensively,  also  tallow  candles   in  smal? 
«juantiti<^s.     The  gun  powder  ma-Jo   by  the  Arabs  of  Woolled- 
79 


'KINGDOM  OF  MOROCCO.  aeS 

i*  AS,  or  Fez,  as  it  is  commonly  written,  is  divided  into  Old  and 
New.  The  centre  of  Old  Fas  is  low,  and  in  the  winter  dirty.  The 
Test  of  the  town  is  built  on  gentle  acclivities.  The  houses  are 
lofty  and  spacious.  They  all  have  flat  roofs,  on  which  carpets  are 
spread  in  the  summer  evenings.  The  number  of  mosques  is  very- 
great,  and  about  50  of  them  are  very  sumptuous  edifices,  ornament- 
'Cd  with  a  most  beautiful  kind  of  marble,  unknown  in  Europe,  and 
procured  from  Mount  Atlas.  The  population  of  both  parts  of  the 
•town  is  stated  by  Jackson  at  380,000. 

Mequinas  stands  near  the  river  Seboo,  and  at  a  small  distance 
from  Fas,  in  the  midst  of  a  !)eaurifal  valley,  surrounded  by  gentle 
■eminences.  The  streets  are  not  paved,  and  in  winter  are  almost 
impassable.  The  population  is  1  10.,000.  The  inhabitants  arfe 
generally  hospitabte.  Their  manners  are  more  mild  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  empire. 

Teiiodakt,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Suse,  ©r 
Terodant,  is  now  the  metropolis  of  the  south.  It  is  extensive  and 
ancient.  There  is  a  noble  palace  here,  adorned  with  gardens,  con- 
taining the  most  delicious  fruits.  The  population  is  25,000,  and 
was  formerly  far  greater. 

Rabat  is  a  seaport,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bu-Regreg,  on  its  south 
bank.  The  environs  abound  with  excellent  fruits.  The  walls 
are  about  2  miles  in  circuit,  and  are  strengthened  by  square  tow- 
ers.    The  houses  are  poorly  built.     The  population  is  25,000. 

Salee  is  a  walled  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  same  river,  on  the 
opposite  side  from  Rabat.  It  was  formerly  a  nursery  of  pirates, 
and  the  Salee  rovers  were  the  common  terror  of  ail  ships  sailing 
near  the  coast.     The  population  is  18,000. 

Tetuan  stands  4  miles  from  the  ftlediterraneaii,  a  little  S.  E.  of 
the  straits.  The  environs  abound  with  the  most  delicious  fruits. 
Its  oranges  are  celebrated.     Its  population  is  16,000. 

Saffke,  or  Asf  EE,  is  S.  of  Cape  Cantin,  between  two  hills, 
■which  render  the  town  intolerably  hot  in  summer,  and  in  winter 
very  disagreeable.     Population  12,000, 

MuLEY  Dris  Zerone  IS  an  inland  town,  east  of  Mequinas,  a- 
mong  the  mountains,  and  contains  12,000  inhabitants. 

MoGODOR,  or  SuERAH,  about  70  miles  S.  W.  of  SafTee,  on  a  low 
flat  desert  of  accumulating  sand.  The  harbor  is  formed  by  a  little 
island  2  miles  in  circumference  lying  S.  of  the  town.  Between 
this  and  the  main  land  ships  anchor,  but  there  is  only  12  feet  wa- 
ter at  low  tide.  The  houses  are  all  of  stone  and  white,  and  look 
beautifully  from  the  sea.  The  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  an- 
gles and  arc  narrow.  The  hou-.cs  have  few  windows  towards  the 
street.  Tl'.obe  of  the  foreign  merchants  are  the  most  spacious  and 
elegant.     Populmion  10,000. 

Tangier,  is  near  the  west  mouth  of  tlie  straits,  a  few  miles  from. 
Cape  .Spartel.  The  inhabitants  ure  6000  in  number.  Tiiey  sup- 
ply Gibraltar  with  provisions. 

Manufactures  and    Commerce.     Morocco  leather,  both  of  goat 
and  calfskins,  is   made  extensively,  also  tallow  candies   In  small 
«iuantities.     The   gun  powder   maJo   by  the   Arabs  of  Woolled* 
79 


626  ivINGDOM  OF  MOROCCO. 

Abussebah,  south  of  the  river  Suse,  is  of  a  quality  far  superior  to 
that  of  Europe.     Carpets  are  made  in  the  pi'ovince  of  Tedla. 

The  commerce  of  Morocco  is  with  foreign  nations,  and  with  the 
interior  of  Africa.  That  by  sea  is  entirely  passive.  Mogodor  i!i 
the  principal  port.  The  exports  from  that  town  in  1804,  amount- 
ed £\27,679  sterling,  and  the  imports  to  £151,450  sterling. 

The  inland  trade  is  chiefly  with  Timbuctoo,  across  the  desert. 
The  journey  from  Fas  Akka,  the  place  of  rendezvous  on  this  side 
of  the  desert  takes  up  1 8  days.  Here  they  halt  a  month  :  and  then 
in  16  days  reach  Tagassa,  whcvc  they  remain  15.  In  7  more  they 
reach  Arawan,  where  they  make  a  similar  stop,  and  in  6  days  reach. 
Timbuctoo,  making  a  journey  of  54  days  actual  travelling,  and  75 
of  repose. 

Climate.  From  March  to  September  the  atmosphere  is  hardly 
ever  charged  with  clouds,  and  in  the  rainy  season  the  sun  is  rarely 
hid  a  whole  day  at  once.  The  summer  days  are  excessively  hot, 
and  in  the  south  the  inhabitants  are  often  visited  by  the  s/iumcj  or 
parching  v/ind,  from  the  desert.  Many  loathsome  and  distressing 
diseases  prevail  in  Morocco.  The  plague  occasionally  visits  Mo- 
rocco, and  is  awfully  destructive  in  its  ravages.  That  of  1799 
carried  off  about  50,000  of  the  inhabitants  of  Morocco,  and  about 
65,000  of  those  of  Fas. 

J^ace  of  the  Country.  The  kingdoms  of  Morocco  and  Fas,  W. 
of  Mount  Atlas,  except  the  province  of  Haha,  are  a  pleasant 
champaign  country,  every  where  covered  with  vegetation,  and 
generally  cultivattd.  The  provinces  of  Haha  and  Suse  are  inter- 
spersed with  mountains  and  valleys,  hills  and  dales.  Here  villages 
and  walled  habitations  are  scattered  over  tlie  country.  Draha  and 
Talilelt  are  chiefly  plain  countries,  and  are  very  scantily  supplied 
with  water.  Between  Tafllelt  and  Atlas  lies  a  plain,  five  days 
journey  in  width  ;  nearly  destitute  of  vegetation,  on  which  rain 
never  falls.  The  soil  is  a  whitish  clay,  which,  when  moistened, 
resembles  soap. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  The  soil  of  all  the  provinces  west  of  the 
-mountains  is  very  fertile.  Suse  is  the  richest  province  of  the  em- 
pire. The  soil  of  Draha  and  Tafilelt  is  of  a  saline  nature,  com- 
municating a  strong  briny  taste  to  the  rivers.  The  dates  of  Draha 
and  Tafilelt  are  astonishingly  abundant  and  of  an  excellent  quality. 
They  constitute  the  chief  food  of  the  inhabitants.  In  Tafilelt  -d- 
lone  there  arc  upwards  of  thirty  varieties  of  this  fruit.  The  pro- 
duce of  a  single  plantation  near  the  imperial  palace,  on  the  river 
Fillelly,  was  7500  camel-loads,  or  quintals,  which  sold  for  5000 
dollars. 

Bivers.  The  Muluwia  separates  oVIororco  from  Tlemsen,  or 
West  Algiers,  and  empties  into  the  Medilerranean  in  Ion.  1  30 
\V.  from  Greenwich.  It  is  a  deep  and  impetuous  stream.  Ships 
of  150  tons  m:\y  enter  it  at  high  water. 

The  Selioo  is  impassable,  except  in  boats,  or  on  rafts.  At  Ma- 
mora,  a  village  of  300  iniiabitants,  where  it  enters  the  sea,  it  is 
large,  deep,  and  navig.'iljle. 


ALGIERS.  627 

The  Bu  Regrcg,  enters  the  sea,  between  Salcc  and  Rabat.  Here 
^lomeof  the  emperor's  frigates  are  wintered. 

The  Morbeya,  dividing  the  provinces  of  Fas  and  Tedla,  passes 
I  through  those  of  Morocco  and  Shawia,  and  separates  Temsena 
•from  Duquelia.     Azamor,  a  town  of   1000  inhabitants^  lies  at  its 
mouth.     Its  waters  abound  in  the  shcbbel  fish. 

The  Tensif  falls  into  the  ocean,  16  miles  below  SafFce.  Its 
chief  tributary  is  the  Nissis. 

The  Suse  falls  into  the  sea,  6  miles  S.  of  Santa  Cruz,  a  village 
of  300  inhabitants. 

The  Fillclly  is  the  largest  river  of  Morocco,  and  its  whole  course 
•  is  450  miles. 

Ca/ies.  The  Cape  of  the  Three  Forks,  is  a  little  N.  W.  of 
Melilla.  Abyla  is  a  noble  promontory,  opposite  Gibraltar.  Cape 
Spartel  is  a  fine  headland,  and  the  N.  W.  point  of  Africa.  Cape 
Cantin  is  a  height  visible  from  the  tower  of  Morocco.  Cape  de 
Geer  is  a  noble  bluff,  and  the  termination  of  a  branch  of  Atlas. 
■  Cape  Noon  is  the  southwestern  limit  of  the  country.  The  coast 
on  the  Straits  is  every  where  rugged,  and  interspersed  with  pro- 
jecting cliffs.  The  western  coast  is  defended  by  numerous  rocks 
level  with  the  surface  of  the  v/ater,  and  occasionally  an  interme- 
diate beach  between  them,  where  the  water  is  shallow,  and  the 
surf  runs  high.  South  of  Santa  Cruz,  even  to  Cape  Bojador,  the 
coast  is  every  where  deceitful  and  dangerous.  The  waves  break 
violently  over  the  rocks,  and  the  rapid  cun-ent,  which  invariably 
sets  in  towards  the  land,  frequently  drives  vessels  ashore. 

MQU7itai7is.  The  mountains  of  Atlas  have  already  been  men- 
tioned. Only  that  part  of  the  range,  called  West  Atlas,  which 
runs  from  S.  W.  to  N.  E.  is  in  Morocco.  These  mountains  are 
very  fertile,  and  produce  excellent  fruits,  having  at  different 
heights  the  advantage  of  various  climates.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
upper  regions  of  Atlas  live  four  months  of  the  year  in  excavations 
of  the  mountains. 

Mineralogy.  Gold,  iron,  copper,  antimony,  and  silver  mines 
are  found  in  various  parts  of  Morocco. 


ALGIERS. 

Extent  and  Boundaritii.  THE  length  of  this  territory,  on  the 
Mediterranean  from  Ion.  1  20  W.  to  Ion.  9  16  E.  is  6 10  miles.  Its 
breadth  in  the  W.  is  not  more  than  60  miles  ;  but  E.  of  Algiers  it 
exceeds  100.  It  has  Morocco  W.  the  Mediterranean  N.  Tunis  E. 
and  the  desert  of  Angad  S. 

Divisions.  It  is  divided  into  three  provinces  :  Tlemsen,  in  the 
W. ;  Tiieri  in  the  S.  and  Conttantina  in  the  E.  This  last  is  much 
the  largest  and  richest. 

Religion.  The  Algerines  are  Mahometans,  and  more  super- 
stitious than  the  Turks.  Their  three  chief  ecclesiastical  officers 
.  are  the  Muftij  the  Cadi^  and  tlic  grand  ISIarabout. 


S2S;  ALGIERS. 

QQ-vemment.  The  government  is  composed  of  the  Dey,  afld  the 
Bouwaii.  Tlic  dcy,  is  chosen  out  of  the  anny,  and  his  election  is. 
Tusually  attended  with  tumult  and  bloodshed.  The  dey,  for  a  lonij 
period  has  been  possessed  of  absolute. power.  When  he  exercises 
at  tyrannically,  however,  he  is,  always  murdered.  Scarcely  one  ir» 
t^n  dies  in  his  bed.  The  next  officer  to  the  dey,  is  the  aga,  who  i& 
general  of  the  Janizaries.  He  keeps  the  keys  of  the  city,  and  is- 
sues, in  his  OAvn  name,  ail  military  orders  ;  but  enjoys  his  post  for 
two  months  only,  when  he  is  succeeded  by  the  chiah  or  next  senior 
officer.  The  chiah'basha'OJt,  or  chief  colonels,  are  about  30  in 
number,  and  with  the  mufti  and  cadi  compose  the  Dau%vu7i^  which 
is  now  convened,  as  a  mere  matter  of  form,  to  sanction  measures 
before  resolved  on. 

Population.  Hassel  estimates  the  population  of  Algiers  at 
1,500,OCO  ;  but  does  not  give  his  authority. 

jirmy.  The  army  amounts,  in  time  of  peace,  to  about  650Q 
men,  but  25,000  can  be  raised  on  an  emergency. 

J^avy.  The  navy  consists  of  8  ships,  of  from  36  to  50  guns,  10 
or  12  sloops  of  war,  and  30  gun  boats. 

Revenue.  Hassel  slates  the  revenue,  on  the  authority  of  Bruns, 
at  18670,400,  of  which  450,400  are  certain,  and  220,000  accidental. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  inhabitants  are  Turks,  Moors, 
Cabyles,  Arabs,  Christians,  and  Jews.  The  Turks  have  been  es- 
tablished since  the  middle  of  the  16th  century.  They  form  the 
highest  rank  in  the  country,  and  possess  most  of  the  offices  and 
employments.  No  native  can  be  a  Turk.  He  alone  is  considered 
one  who  is  born  of  Mussulman  parents  within  the  grand  seignor's 
dominions.  The  number  of  Turks  is  about  10,000,  and  they  are 
characterized  as  ignorant,  proud,  indolent,  voluptuous,  jealous, 
and  revengeful  ;  but  ac  the  same  time,  faithful,  courageous,  and 
tolerant. 

The  Moors  are  the  descendants  of  those  who  were  driven  out 
of  Spain.  Those,  who  live  in  towns  and  engage  in  commerce,  have 
degree  of  polish  in   their  manners,  and  are  many  of  them  wealthy. 

The  Arabs  live  in  tents,  and  constitute  numerous  distinct  tribes, 
many  of  which  are  independent  of  the  dey,  and  others  are  only- 
tributaries.  They  live  in  the  mountains,  and  in  the  desert,  and 
are  wilder  than  the  Arabs  of  Morocco. 

The  Jews  are  not  numerous,  and  are  despised  and  oppressed. 

The  Christians  are  cliielly  transitory  residents. 

Cities.  Algiers,  the  capital,  is  built  on  tlie  west  side  of  a  bajc 
of  the  INIediterranean.  The  mole,  which  forms  the  harbor  is  500 
paces  long,  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle,  and  reaches  to  a  little  island 
facing  the  town.  The  harbor  has  anchorage  in  from  18  to  25 
fathom  water,  and  is  defended  by  a  castle  with  three  batteries  of 
cannon,  which  stands  on  the  solid  rock  of  the  island,  and  serves^ 
also  for  a  light  house.  The  town  is  built  on  a  declivity,  in  the 
ibrm  of  an  amphitheatre,  the  houses  rising  gradually  above  one 
another,  so  that  at  sea  tiieir  white  terraced  roofs  look  like  a  white- 
ner^s  ground  covered  with  linen.  There  is  but  one  handsome 
itreetj  which  runs  E,  and  W.  through  the  city.     The  others  are  sc 


ALGIERS.  629 

narrow,  that  carriages  cannot  run  in  tliem,  The  houses  are  built 
of  brick  or  stone,  of  a  square  shape,  with  a  paved  court  in  the  mid- 
dle. The  palace  of  the  dey,  in  the  middle  of  tiie  city,  has  two 
spacious  halls,  one  for  the  douwan,  and  is  a  magnificent  buildin;j. 
The  barracks  for  the  Turkish  soldiers  are  also  grand  edifices^ 
The  mosques  are  numerous,  and  seven  of  them  very  large.  The 
baths  also  are  many  and  spacious.  In  1732,  Dr.  Shaw  computed 
the  population  at  100,000  ;  now  it  is  estimated  at  80,000  :  in  which 
number  are  included  several  hundred  Jewish  families.  The  city 
is  supplied  with  water  from  the  adjacent  mountains,  by  two  a- 
queducts,  which  distribute  it  to  a  number  of  fountains  at  conven- 
ient inlei'vals.  The  environs  are  every  Avhere  fertile,  and  pleasant- 
ly uneven,  adorned  with  gardens,  groves,  and  villas.  The  gardens 
are  stocked  with  plenty  of  fruit-trees,  melons,  and  pot-herbs. 
The  villas  are  little  white  houses,  shaded  with  a  variety  of  fruit- 
trees  and  evergreens,  and  present  a  beautiful  prospect  at  sea.  Lon. 
3    12   45,  E.  lat.  36  49   30,  N. 

Tlemsen,  the  capital  of  the  western  province,  stands  on  a  rising 
ground,  at  the  foot  of  several  rocky  precipices,  from  which  issue 
a  number  of  springs.  About  1 670,  the  greater  part  of  the  town 
was  laid  m  ruins,  and  it  has  never  recovered. 

Manufactures  and  Commerce,  There  are  manufactures  here  of 
silk,  cotton,  wool,  leather,  and  other  commodities.  The  exports 
are  ostrich  feathers,  wax,  hides,  wool,  copper,  rags,  silk  sashes, 
embroidered  handkerchiefs,  dates,  and  christian  slaves.  Wheat 
and  barley  were  formerly  shipped,  to  the  amount  of  7000  or  8000 
tons.  The  imports  consist  chiefly  of  gold  and  silver  stuffs,  dam- 
asks, cloths,  spices,  the  metals,  naval  stores,  fire-arm.s,  ammuni- 
tion, paints,  rice,  sugar,  &oap,  cotton,  and  drugs.  The  commerce 
is  chiefly  carried  on  by  the  corsairs,  and  most  of  the  imports  are 
captures. 

Seasons.  The  winds  here  generally  blow  from  the  sea,  or  from 
the  east  or  west.  The  southerly  winds  fiom  the  desert,  are  un- 
usually hot  and  violent,  but  not  frequent.  When  they  blow  for  5 
or  6  days  in  July  and  August,  they  are  very  suffocating,  and  the 
inhabitants  sprinkle  the  fi«ors  of  their  rooms  with  water  or  vinegar. 
The  quantity  of  rain  at  Algiers  averages  27  or  28  inches  :  of  which 
little  falls  in  summer. 

Agriculture.  The  first  rains  fall  in  September  or  October,  af- 
ter which  wheat  is  sown,  and  beans  aie  planted.  Barley  is  sown 
about  the  end  of  November.  The  latter  rains  in  April  secure  the 
crop.  Rice,  Indian  corn,  and  millet,  arc  also  cultivated.  The  pa- 
triarchal mode  of  threshing  is  still  continued.  The  soil  is  gener- 
ally fertile,  more  especially  on  the  coast  and  in  the  valleys. 

Rivers.  The  chief  rivers  of  this  country  aR  the  Zha,  the 
Haregal,  the  Mina,  a  large  river,  which  empties  near  Arzew  ;  the 
Shelif,  the  Celef,  which  runs  only  60  miles,  and  falls  into  the  Medi- 
terranean, 3  leagues  west  of  Algiers  ;  the  Haed-Alquivir,  which 
empties  near  Bugia  ;  the  Suf-Gemar,  the  Ladag,  and  the  Guadi, 
■which  comes  from  Tripoli,  and  empties  near  Tabarea. 

Mountains.  The  mountain  of  Jiirjura  is  the  highest  in  Barbary, 


630  TUNIS. 

covered  wUli  snow  in  tlie  winier,  about  60  miles  S.  of  AlgicrSj  aut» 
is  a  noble  spur  ironi  Mount  Atlas. 


TUNIS. 

Situation  cml  Extent.  THIS  country  lies  next  to  Algiers,  and 
is  300  miles  long-,  from  N.  to  S.  and  170  from  E.  to  W.  Having 
•the  Mediterranean  on  the  N.  the  same  sea  and  Tripoli  on  the  E. 
Tripoli  arid  the  desert  on  the  S.  and  Algiers  on  the  W.  It  is  di- 
vided into  two  circuits,  the  northern,  which  the  bey  rides  through 
in  the  summer,  and  the  southern  in  the  winter. 

Religion^  Go-oernment^  Army^  life.  The  religion  is  the  Mahom- 
etan. The  government  is  now  despotic  and  hereditary.  The  bey 
is  able,  at  a  short  warning,  to  bring  from  40  to  50,00©  men  of  his 
militia  into  the  field,  tln-ee  fourths  cavalry.  He  has  besides  in  his 
service  about  6000  Turks,  who  are  reckoned  better  soldiers  than 
the  natives. 

Revenues.  The  regular  revenue  of  the  bey  amounts  to  about 
-6000  piastres.  The  accidental  revenue  arises  from  extortions, 
from  seizures  of  the  wealth  of  those  who  die,  and  from  the  bey's 
profit  in  trading. 

Population.  The  population  of  the  country  is  estimated  at 
.3,000,000  ;  (though  Kassel  estimatcs.it  at  1,000,000  only)  of  whom 
100,000  are  Jews,  and  2(i,000  Christians.  A  plague  in  1785,  and  a 
famine  in  1803,  swept  olt  great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants. 

Cities.  Tl-.e  city  of  Tunis  is  situated  on  a  rising  ground  on  the 
west  bank  of  a  lake,  about  6  miles  from  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  Tu- 
nis. The  city  is  enclosed  by  a  miserable  wall  of  mud  and  stone, 
neither  useful  nor  ornamental.  The  houses  are  of  stone,  but  of  the 
•sBOst  miserable  arcliitecture.  The  streets  are  narrow,  dirty,  and 
ill  paved.  The  cisterns  furnish  the  only  supply  of  fresh  water. 
The  population  of  Tunis  probably  exceeds  100,000.  The  Tunisians 
estimate  at  at  150,000.     Jerba  is  an  interior  manufacturing  town. 

Manufacture/}.  The  chief  manufactures  are  those  of  scull-caps, 
woollen  stuffs,  and  morocco  leather.  The  caps  are  of  Spanish  wool, 
died  crimson.  Formerly  50,000  people  were  occupied  in  this 
manufacture,  and  5000  bales  of  Spanish  wool  were  consumed  by 
it,  with  a  clear  profit,  after  all  expences  were  deducted,  of  7,000,000 
piastres.  At  present  it  is  reduced  to  one  third  of  its  original  ex- 
tent. The  exports  consist  of  grain  of  different  kinds,  oil,  wool, 
hides,  wax,  soap,  dates,  senna,  madder,  coral,  oil  of  roses,  and  os- 
trich feathers. 

Commtrce.  Tunis  has  an  extensive  commerce  with  the  interior 
of  Africa,  by  means  of  caravans.  These  go  to  Timbuctoo  and  other 
places  in  Soudan  ;  cross  the  Niger,  and  the  mountains  of  the 
Moon,  and  visit  the  coast  of  Guinea.  Three  of  these  caravans  ar- 
rive yearly  at  Tunis.  They  bring  gold  dust,  senna,  ostrich  feathers, 
and  black  slaves  ;  and  carry  away  cloths,  muslins,  linen,  silks,  mo» 
locco leather,  cochineal,  and  spices. 


TRIPOLI.  *      65-1 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  Tunisians  are  more  superstitious 
than  other  mussulmcn.  They  will  not  allow  Christians  to  approach 
their  mosques.  The  merchants  of  Tunis  are  univeraaliy  dislionest, 
and  avarice  is  a  common  characteristic  of  all  classes.  The  inhab- 
itants, however,  are  more  polished  in  their  manners,  and  discover 
less  of  the  savage  in  their  character,  than  those  of  the  other  Bar- 
bary  states. 

Climate.     The  same  as  Algiers. 

Soil  and  Productions.  The  soil  is  every  where  rich  and  yildd^: 
an  abundant  harvest.  In  the  eastern  part  of  the  country  it  products, 
in  a  favorable  year,  one  hundred  fold.  The  annual  crop  of  wheat 
in  the  regency,  is  estimated  at  7,200,000  bushels,  and  wich  the 
proper  culdvation  might  be  tcnfolded  ;  that  of  barley  is  stiii  great- 
er ;  that  of  beans  180,000  busliels,  and  that  of  Indian  corn  90,000. 
The  produce  of  the  oil  of  olives  is  estimated  at  5,130,000  gallons,- 
and  every  third  year  a  greater  crop  is  expected.  Of  this  oric 
fourth  is  fi'ie  eating  oil,  and  the  rest  is  used  m  lamps  and  the  man- 
ufactories. The  quantity  of  wool  exported  is  only  about  3,000,000 
pounds  ;  but  the  quantity  raised  in  the  regency  is  immense.  About 
100,000  hides  are  annually  exported.  The  bees-wax  is  excellent, 
and  about  27,500  pounds  are  annually  collected.  The  barilla  of 
Tunis  is  excellent. 

River.     The  chief  river  is  the  Mejerda,  the  ancient  Bagrada. 

Antiquities.  The  ruins  of  Carthage  arc  15  milvs  N.  E.  of  Tunis. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  third  Punic  war,  this  city  contained  700,000 
inhabitants.  All  its  remains  in  1732,  were  the  area  of  a  spacioiii:. 
room,  on  one  of  the  hills,  the  common  sewers,  and  the  ci^.teros, 
•which  are  nearly  perfect. 


TRIPOLI,  INCLUDING  BARCA. 

Boundaries  and  Extent.  THIS  extensive  country  has  Tunis  on 
the  W.  the  Desert  on  the  S.  Egypt  on  the  E.  and  the  Mediterranean 
on  the  N.  Its  length  is  about  i  100  miles.  The  breadth  is  about 
200  miles;  that  of  Barca  is  about  90  or  100.  It  contains  194,420 
square  miles.* 

Religion,  Government.,  Isfc.  The  religion  is  the  ISIahoraetan. 
The  governor  is  a  Turkisli  bashaw,  who  possesses  little  authority- 
Tripoli  Proper  is  divided  by  the  Turks  into  7  provinces,  over  each 
©f  which  is  placed  a  bey. 

Po/iulation.  The  population  of  Tripoli  is  1,000,000.  The  army 
amounts  to  6000  land  troops.  The  government  has  one  50  gun  sliip 
and  6  galliots.  The  reveniie  amounts  to  7o0,0''>0  guilders.  The 
settled  inhal)iiants  iTsemble  those  of  the  other  states  of  Barbaryi;-. 
their  manners,  customs,  classes,  and  character. 

Cities.  Tripoli,  the  capital,  stands  on  tlic  Mediterranean,  eii  ?., 
sandy  plain  of  consiojcrable  extent,  and  is  surrounded  by  high  wall.-;. 

*  Hassel. 


SS2  EGYPT. 

and  stout  ramparts,  and  is  flanked  with  pyramidical  towers.  The 
harbor  is  a  very  fine  one,  and  the  western  side  of  it  is  defended  by 
a  strong  castie,  and  by  fortifications  in  the  modern  style.  The 
streets  are  narrow,  dirty,  and  irregular  ;  and  the  houses  low  and 
mean.  The  inhabitants  procure  their  fresh  water  from  cisterns. 
Lat.  32  35  N.  Ion.  13   12  E.  275  miles  S.  E.  of  Tunis. 

Derxe  is  the  chief  town  of  Barca,  and  stands  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  Mediterranean,  in  Ion.  22  55  E.  The  soil  around  it  is 
i'ertiie  and  productive.  Dcrne,  in  1805,  was  the  scene  of  the  ex- 
ploits of  the  gallant  gen.  Eaton,  and  his  handful  of  intrepid  Arabs. 

Soil,  life.  The  soil  of  this  country  is  generally  barren,  and  most 
of  the  settled  inhabitants  live  in  the  towns  on  the  coast.  The  great 
body  of  the  population  is  composed  of  the  Bedouin  Arabs,  who 
wander  in  search  of  prey  over  the  pathless  wilds  of  the  desert. 
Barca  itself  is  merely  a  northern  arm  of  the  great  Sahara. 


EGYPT, 

Extent.  THE  length  of  Egypt,  from  lat.  SS'^,  to  lat.  31  3  N".  is 
560  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth,  on  the  Mediterranean,  is  about 
280  miles.  The  average  width  of  the  country,  from  Suez  S.  is 
about  170  miles. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  is  the  Mediterranean ;  on  the  E.  Arabia 
Petr^a,  tlie  gulf  of  Suez  and  the  Red  sea;  on  the  S.  Nubia  ;  and 
on  the  W.  Barca  and  Sahara. 

Diviiiio7is.  Tins  country  is  usually  divided  into  Upper  and  Lov/- 
cr  Egypt.  Lower  Egypt  includes  the  country  N.  of  Cairo  and  Suez. 
Upper  Egypt  the  remainder. 

Antiquvies.  The  pyraiiiids  of  Egypt  are  the  most  wonderful 
monuments  of  ancient  architecture.  Three  large  ones  are  nearly 
opposite  Cairo  on  tlve  W.  side,  about  1 1  miles  from  the  river's 
Ijank.  TIjc  length  of  one  side  o^f  the  base  of  the  largest  is  about 
700  French  feet ;  its  height  upwartls  of  600.  It  is  composed  of 
layers  of  flat,  calcareous  stones,  212  in  number,  and  from  2  to  4 
feet  in  hciglit,  whicii  overleap  each  other,  and  thus  form  steps  from 
the  boliom  to  tlie  top.  The  interior  contains  various  rooms,  one  a 
large  parallelogram,  the  roof  of  which  is  composed  of  7  enormous 
stones  ot  granite,  which  reach  from  one  wall  to  the  other.  At  one 
end  of  it  is  a  narcophagus  made  of  a  single  block  of  marble.  To 
liiese  rooms  tlie  lit^ht  of  the  sun  never  penetrated,  and  for  a  long 
period  they  have  been  tenanted  by  immense  nuinbers  of  bats,  who 
lemain  here  undisturbed,  from  century  to  century,  except  when 
the  unwelcome  lamp  of  the  traveller  faintly  illuiTies  their  dark  re- 
treat. 

iV £?//§•/';«  and  Gox'criunejit.  The  great  body  of  the  present  inhab- 
itants are  Mahometans,  The  Copts  are  Monophysite  Christians, 
Mho  hold  that  the  divine  and  human  nature  in  Jesus  Christ,  were 
so  blended  as  to  triakc  but  one  nature.  This  is  also  the  doctrine  o-V 
i\\t  Syrian,  .'\rmenian,  and  Abyssinian  churches. 


EGYPT.  63S 

Fofitdation.  Hassel  estimates  the  number  of  inhabitants  at 
S,500,000.  Volncy  calculated  it  at  2,300,000.  This  population  is 
divided  inlo  I.  The  Copts,  who  arc  descended  from  that  mixture  of 
Egyptians,  Persians,  and  Greeks,  who,  under  the  Ptolemies  and 
Constantincs,  were  so  loni^  in  possession  of  Egypt.  The  great  body 
of  them  inhabit  Upper  Ei^-ypt,  where,  in  some  places,  they  occupy 
whole  villages.  2.  The  Arabs.  3.  The  Turks,  who  are  settled 
chiefly  about  Cairo.  4.  Tiic  Mamelukes,  who  are  chiefly  Georg- 
ians,  Circassians,  and  Mingrelians.  5.  The  Jews,  who  devote 
themselves  to  commerce  and  manufactures.  6.  Tlie  Bevebbers, 
',vho  inhabit  the  upper  part  of  the  Said,  and  Nubia. 

Army.  The  regular  military  force  of  Egypt  is  estimated  at 
20,000  infantry,  and  i2,or,o  cavalry. 

Re-oenue.  The  regular  sources  of  the  Egyptian  revenues  are 
the  customs,  a  land  tRx,  and  a  capitation  tax  on  Jews,  and  Christ= 
ians.  The  whole  regular  revenue  may  be  calctjlatcd  at  2,000,000 
sterling.  The  tincenain  revenue  is  obtained  by  extortions,  and 
is  very  great,  but  merely  enriches  the  individual  plunderer. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  Copts  are  despised  by  the  Turks 
and  hated  by  the  common  people.  The  Saracenic  Arabs  have  a 
complexion  nearly  black,  and  are  taller  and  more  robust  than  the 
present  inhabitants  of  Arabia.  The  Bedouins  arc  divided  into 
tribes,  each  cf  which  has  a  distinct  poriion  of  land.  They  live  in 
tents,  and  sleep  on  the  grouiul.  Their  great  business  is  robbery 
and  plunder.  The  Berrebbers  have  neither  flesh  nor  fat,  but  sim- 
ply bo<^«s,  nerves,  muscles,  and  tendons.  They  are  faithful  and 
strongly  attached  to  their  masters. 

Languages.  The  Arabic  is  spoken  by  all  the  Arabs,  by  the 
Copts,  the  Jews,  and  the  Greek  and  Syrian  Christians. 

Cities.  Cairo,  or  Grand  Cairo,  stands  on  the  E,  side  of  the 
Nile,  nearly  a  mile  from  its  bank,  and  about  10  fi-om  the  angle  of 
the  Delta.  To  the  N.  a  fertile  plain  reaches  to  the  Delta.  Im- 
mediately uPidcr  the  mountain  E.  is  the  castle,  nearly  a  mile  ia 
circumference,  which  commands  the  town,  a  place  of  great  strength 
before  tl.c  use  of  cannon.  \Viihin  the  castle  is  a  well,  called  the 
well  of  Joseph,  280  feet  deep,  and  42  in  circumference.  The  walls 
of  the  city  are  9  miles  in  circuniferericc.  Its  lencnli  fiom  N.  to  S, 
is  nearly  3  miles,  and  its  breadth  2.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
crooked,  and  unpaved,  intersected  here  and  there  v/ith  large  va- 
cancies,  which  become  lak.cs  during  the  increase  of  the  Nik,  and 
arc  gardens  tlic  rest  of  the  year.  They  are  greatly  infested  with 
dogs.  The  houses  of  the  city  are  chiefly  of  earth  and  bricks, 
badly  burnt  ;  the  rest  are  of  a  soft  stone,  from  the  neighboring 
mountains.  They  have  two  or  three  stories,  over  which  is  a  flat 
terrace  of  stone  or  tiles.  They  look  like  prisons,  have  no  windo-vs 
towards  the  btrcct,  and  the  doors  are  extremely  lov/.  The  win- 
dows have  no  glass,  but  only  an  open  lattice  work.  Mr.  Browns 
estimates  tiie  population  at  300,000.  The  Saracenic  Arabs  form 
the  body  of  tiic  people.  The  Copts  are  numerous.  Tite  Mame- 
lukes are  about  12,000  in  number.  The  Syrian  Chi-istians  have 
upwards  of  5'^'0  families.  There  arc  some  Greeks  and  Armenians 
80 


634  EGYPT. 

The  Mograbians  have  a  disiinct  quarter  assigned  them,  and  ai*© 
frugal  and  industrious.  Few  of  the  Turks  are  steady  residents. 
The  Jews  are  numerous.  The  mean  annual  heat  is  73°.  Within 
the  walls  are  more  than  300  mosques,  most  of  which  have  several 
minarets,  or  high  steeples,  surrounded  with  galleries.  They  l.ave 
no  bells.  Cairo  had  once  an  extensive  commerce,  and  it  is  now 
the  metropolis  of  the  trade  of  eastern  Africa.  Caravans  leave  it  for 
Syria,  Arabia,  Abyssinia,  Ssnnaar,  Darfur,  Fezcan,  Tripoli,  Tunis, 
and  Morocco.  N.  E.  of  the  lov/n  are  extensive  gardens,  and 
elegant  country  houses.  The  ground  under  the  mountains,  to  the 
E.  is  filled  Willi  tombs. 

Between  Cairo  and  the  liver  lies  Boulac,  which  is  the  port  of 
Lower  Egypt.  It  extends  nearly  2  miles  along  the  river,  but  is- 
narrow.  Here  all  the  merchandize  is  landed  from  the  Mediter- 
x'anean.     Lon.  31   27  E.  lat.  30  2  N. 

Alf.;candria  for  18Q0  years  was  the  grand  emporium  of  east-' 
ern  commerce.  Diodorus  Siculus  says  it  was  11  miles  in  circuit, 
and  contained  600,000  inhabitants.  The  modern  city  is  built  near 
the  brink  of  the  sea,  on  a  kind  of  peninsula,  on  each  side  of  which 
is  a  harbor.  The  streets  are  narrov/,  irregular  and  unpaved.  The 
commerce  of  the  town  is  now  of  considerable  importance.  The- 
reservoirs,  built  2000  years  ago,  vaulted  with  much  art,  and  ex- 
tending under  the  whole  town,  are  still  entire.  They  furnish  the 
whole  supply  of  fresh  water  to  the  city.  The  lake  ot  Mareotis  is 
now  filled  up  i>y  the  sands  of  the  desert,  and  the  island  of  Pharos 
has  become  a  part  of  the  continent.  The  canal  of  the  Nil--^^  com- 
municates with  the  eastern  harbor.  It  is  40  miles  long,  and  was 
cleared  out,  by  the  order  of  Bonaparte,  in  l/QS. 

Damiett A  stands  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  eastern  branch  of 
the  Nile,  about  2  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  bazars  are  well  built, 
and  filled  with  merchants.  The  commerce  of  the  town  is  carried 
on  almost  wholly  by  Christians,  from  Damascus  and  Aleppo.  Sev- 
eral large  mosques,  with  lofty  minarets,  are  scattered  over  the 
ciiy,  and  the  public  baths  are  lined  with  marble,  and  well  attended. 
The  harbor  is  indifferent,  but  constantly  crowded  with  vessels. 
The  population  is  about  80,000.  The  environs  are  singularly  fer- 
tile, and  throughout  the  year  present  flowers,  fruits,  and  harvests. 
Tlie  climate  is  always  temperate  and  healthy.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  town  ore  many  pleasant  and  flourishing  villages. 

RosETTA  is  built  on  the  west  bank  of  the  west  branch  of  the 
Nile,  and  is  now  about  6  miles  from  its  mouth,  although  it  stood- 
upon  the  shore  when  it  was  founded  in  the  8ih  century.  It  ex- 
tends on  the  river  3  miles,  and  is  1  mile  wide.  The  streets  are 
nearly  straight,  and  are  wider  than  is  usual  in  Egypt.  The  hous- 
es are  handsome.  Several  of  the  mosques  arc  magnificent.  Ex- 
tensive gardens  lie  north  of  the  city,  in  which  citron,  orange,  date, 
and  sycamore  trees  are  promiscuously  planted.  The  commerce 
of  the  town  is  extensive. 

Suez  is  built  on  a  peninsula,  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  Suez, 
in  the  midst  of  a  desert.  Water  is  brought  from  Naba,  6  miles  off, 
on  the  other  side  of  the  gulf  The  population  is  small.  The  com- 
merce, by  caravans,  with  Cairo,  and  by  sea,  with  Jidda,  is  extensive. 


EGYPT.  "635 

CossEiR  lies  on  the  west  shore  nt"  the  Red  Sea,  in  lat  26  8  N. 
and  Ion.  35  4,  E.  about  230  miles  S.  E.  ot  Suez.  It  stands  among 
hillocks  of  floating  sand.  The  houses  are  of  clay.  The  inhabit- 
ants Arabs,  from  the  opposite  shore.  The  harbor  is  formed  by  a 
rock,  which  runs  400  vards  into  the  sea.  The  number  of  settled 
inhabitants  is  small,  but  great  numbers  of  strans^ers  are  constantly 
passing  and  repassing.  The  commerce  is  considerable,  particu- 
larly in  coffee. 

SiuT,  or  AssiuT,  2  miles  from  the  west  bank  of  the  Nile,  and 
about  200  S.  of  Cairo,  is  a  large,  populous,  and  well  built  town, 
and  the  see  of  a  Coptic  bishop. 

GiRGEH,  the  chief  town  of  the  Said,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Nile, 
is  8'J  miles  from  Siut,  and  is  3  miles  in  circumference. 

Syene  on  tlie  east  side  of  the  Nile,  on  the  confines  of  Egypt,  is 
abouc  200  miles  S.  of  Girgeh.  The  population  is  numerous,  and 
its  commerce,  in  senna  and  dates,  is  extensive.  The  island  of 
Elephantina  is  opposite  the  town.  The  ruins  of  the  ancient  Syene 
are  on  a  hill  a  little  south.  The  ancients  supposed  that  it  lay  di- 
rectly under  the  tropic.  Eratosthenes  here  made  the  first  at- 
-tempt  to  m.easure  the  circumference  of  the  earth. 

Commerce.     The  commerce  of  Egypt  is  on  the  Mediterranean, 
on  the  Red  Sea,  and  over  land  by   caravans.     The    chief  harbors 
on  the   Mediterranean  ».\&  Alexandria,   Rosstta,  and  Damietta. 
From  these  ar&  esported  the  various  productions  of  the  country  j 
and  here  are  received  the  imports  from  Europe.     According  to 
Niebuhr,  about  1600  baies  of  broadcloth,  400  of  piepper,  200  bar- 
rels of  cochineal,  and  60  of  pewter,  are  sent  yearly  from  Europe 
to   Egypt.     Egypt  procures  from  the  Red  Sea  the  coffee,  odors, 
gems,  and  drugs  of  Yemen,  the  perfumes  of  Arabia,  the  spices  of 
Ceylon,  the  pearls  of  the  Baharean  isles,  the  muslins  and  linens  of 
Bengal,  and  the  shawls  of  Cashmir.     The  coffee  alone  is  an  an- 
nual object  of  1 1  millions  of  livres.     Every  year  a  caravan  leaves 
Morocco  for  Mecca,  in  Arabia.     It  passes  along  the  Mediterrane- 
an  shores  collecting  pilgrims   and  merchants  as  it  moves,  and 
usually  arrives  at  Cairo  in  May,  bringing  the  gums  of  Morocco, 
and  elepliants'  teeth,  tamarinds,  parrots,  ostrich  feathers,  gold  dust, 
and  black  slaves,  from  the  other  side  of  the  Sahara.     About  50,000 
persons  usually  come  in  the  caravan  to  Cairo,  and  the  number  of 
camels  is  still  greater.     They  stay  here  upwards  of  a  month.   The 
city  all  this  time  presents  the  appearance  of  a  fair,  and  the  resort 
of  strangers  to  it  is  immense.     Here   it  is  joined  by  the  pilgrims, 
and  merchants  of  Egypt,  and  usually   doubles  iis  numbers.     It 
proceeds  to  Suez,  where  it  is  greatly  increased  by  additions  from 
Syria  and  Persia,  and  in  its  rout,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Red 
Sea,  from  Hindostan.     At  Mecca  it  is  found  usually  to  contain 
200,000  persons.     The  western  part  of  it  returns  to  Cairo  in  100 
days  from  the  time   it  left  there,  kjadcd  with  the  merchandise  of 
Arabia  and  the  east,  collected  at  Mecca  and  at  Suez.     A  part  of 
this  is  left  in  Egypt ;  and  the   remainder,  with  cloths  and  clothing 
of  every  description,  glass-ware,  broad-swords,  false  pearls,  coraJ, 
and  amber,  purchased  at  Cairo,  are  carried  westward  for  the  Bar- 
bary  States,  and  for  Timbuctoo. 


93§  EGYPT. 

Climate.  Tiie  clintate  of  Egypt  is  cxiremely  hot.  The  hsat 
(pf  the  day,  in  July  and  August  is  usuailv  86°  or  88°  of  Fahrenheit, 
in  the  shade,  and  in  the  Said  it  is  still  higher.  From  March  to 
November  inclusive,  the  heat  is  hardly  supportable  to  an  Europe- 
an. The  heat  of  -winter  never  exceeds  52°  or  50°  ;  of  course 
snow  and  hail  are  unknown.  The  climate  is  generally  healthy. 
The  inhabitants  arc  robust,  and  live  many  of  them  to  old  age. 
The  dryness  of  the  air  prevents  meat  from  putrifying-,  even  in 
summer.  Almost  all  the  inhabitants  drink  of  the  Nile.  Its  vv  atcrs, 
though  turbid,  are  considered  as  highly  salubrious,  and  as  render- 
ing the  Egyptian  women  rema.rkab!y  proline.  • 

Face  of  the  Country^  The  habitable  pari  of  Upper  Egypt  is 
a  long  narrow  valley,  commencing  at  Sycne,  and  terminating  a 
little  south  of  Cairo.  Two  chains  of  mountains,  taking  their  rise 
from  the  lower  cataracts  of  the  Nile,  bound  this  valley  on  the 
east  and  west.  The  width  of  the  valley  is  from  12  to  50  miles. 
At  Cairo  the  chains  separate  to  the  right  and  left.  The  western, 
consisting  of  sandy  hillocks  over  a  bed  of  calcareous  stone,  winds 
to  the  N.  W.  and  terminates  in  the  sand  banks  near  Alexandria. 
The  other,  Mouj)t  Mokattam,  composed  of  high  and  steep  recks, 
turns  to  the  E.  and  runs  to  the  Red  Sea.  Between  these  insur- 
mountable barriers  the  Nile  winds  upwards  of  6  degrees  of  lati- 
tude, with  varied  current,  sometimes  smooth  and  tranquil,  at 
others  impetuous,  and  overflowing  the  valley,  which  it  fertilizes^ 
with  its  waters.  Beyond  the  eastern  range  is  the  desert  of  the 
Red  Sea,  of  which  the  Egyptian  part  is  480  miles  long,  200  wide 
in  the  smith  and  70  in  the  north  ;  a  barren  expanse,  intersected 
by  various  ranges  of  hills,  which  abownd  in  marble  and  porpliyry, 
but  are  destitute  of  water  and  of  vegetation,  and  are  chie9y  cover- 
ed with  sand.  Below  Cairo  the  valley  o£  the  Nile  widens  and 
embraces  not  only  the  Delta,  but  all  the  country  watered  by  the 
canals,  connected  with  the  eastern,  or  Pelusian  branch  of  the 
Nile.  The  country  N.E.  ofSuez,  to  the  Mediterranean,  is  also 
chiefly  a  barren,  sandy  plain.  The  coast  of  Egypt,  on  the  Medi- 
terranean, is  so  low  that  it  can  be  seen  but  a  very  short  distance  off 
at  sea.     The  coast  on  the  Red  Sea  is  rocky,  and  often  elevated. 

Soil  and  Agriculture.  Tlic  basis  of  Egypt  from  Syene  to  the 
Mediterranean,  is  a  continued  bed  of  calcareous  stone.  The  soil 
upon  this  bed  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  and  in  and  near  the  Deltas 
is  a  black  fat  loam,  of  a  clayey  cementing  quality,  and  eminently 
provkictive.  The  most  fertile  districts  are  the  Delta,  and  the  pro- 
vince of  Fayoum.  The  Delta  and  the  neighboring  country  are 
watered  by  the  overflowing  of  the  Nile.  INlost  of  the  water  i» 
Upper  Egypt  is  conveyed  to  the  lands  by  machinery. 

Rivers.  The  Nile  has  already  been  described.  The  water  be- 
gins to  lise  about  the  19th  of  June,  and  subsides  in  October.  Be- 
fore the  20th  of  August  it  usually  has  risen  at  least  16  cubits,  the 
increase  necessary  to  insure  a  favorable  crop.  This  rise  in  the  Nile 
is  owing  to  the  rains  of  Abyssinia. 

Mineralogy.  Innnense  quarries  of  marble  are  found  near  Cos- 
scir,  and  in  the  road  from  that  place  to  Keneh,  and  for  25  leagues^, 


NUBIA.  6sr 

from  Monflut  to  Sawadi,  also  in  the  mountains  N.  E.  of  Syene.  A 
yant^e  of  porphyry  mountains  commences  on  the  coast  of  the  Red 
sea," in  lat.  24°  N.  at  Hamra,  and  reaches  to  22  30  in  Nuhia.  Cop- 
per is  tlie  only  metal  found  lierc  by  the  anciuUs.  Quarries  of  red 
granite  reach  from  the  cataracts  below  Syene.  N.  Vv'.  of  that  lOAvn 
is  a  quarry  of  serpentine,  of  Nvhich  the  inhabitants  make  vesseb 
which  stand  the  fire. 

Mineral  Waters.  The  Natron  lakes  are  two  in  number,  3  or  4 
leagues  long,  and  about  a  mile  broad,  with  a  solid  slony  bottom. 
For  9  months  they  are  without  water.  In  the  winter  there  oozes 
put  of  the  earth  a  reddish  violet  colored  water,  which  fills  the  lakes 
to  the  height  of  5  or  6  feet.  This  is  evaporated  by  the  heat  of  the. 
sprini^-,  and  there  remains  a  bed  of  salt  2  feet  thick,  which  is  broken 
%vith  iron  bars.     Thirty  thousand  quintals  are  produced  annually. 


NUBIA. 

THIS  is  a  country  of  indefinite  extent,  lying  between  Egypt  and 
Abyssinia.  On  the  Nile  it  may  be  considered  as  commencing  a 
Jittle  above  Syene,  immediately  under  the  tropic  ;  and  in  the  same 
latitude  on  the  Red  sea.  Its  proper  southern  limit,  on  the  Red 
sea,  is  the  northern  boundary  of  Abyssinia,  in  lat.  1  6°.  On  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Nile,  it  reaches  a  little,  abovfc  the  inouth  of  the  Rahad, 
or  Dender  ;  and  on  the  W.  bank,  as  far  S.  as  the  cataracts  in  that 
river.  It  extends  westward  beyond  the  Bahar  El  Abiad,  as  far  as 
the  frontiers  of  Dar  Fur. 

The  northern  part  of  this  country  is  an  extensive  desert,  called 
the  Great  Desert  of  Mxbia.  Bruce  crossed  this  desert  on  his  re- 
turn from  Abyssinia.  The  country  is  here  an  immense  expanse  of 
$and.  The  only  interesting  objects  remarked  by  Bruce,  were  the 
moving  fiUlars  of  sand,  and  the  simoom.  The  pillars  of  sand  at 
times  proceed  with  great  celerity,  and  at  times  they  stalk  with  ma- 
jestic slowness.  He  saw  11  of  them  about  3  miles  distant.  They 
followed  the  course  of  the  wind,  and  often  with  such  rapidity,  that 
the  swiftest  horse  would  in  vain  have  attempted  to  escape  them. 
The  greatest  diameter  of  the  largest  appeared  to  be  about  10  feet. 
Their  tops  often  seemed  to  reach  to  the  clouds,  and  were  frequent- 
ly separated  from  the  bodies.  In  tliis  case  they  were  immediately 
dispersed  in  the  air.  Sometimes  they  were  suddenly  broken  near 
the  middle,  as  if  struck  with  a  large  cannon  shot.  Sometimes  they 
pass  between  the  traveller  and  the  sun,  and  then  assume  the  ap- 
pearance of  pillars  of  fire.  The  iipioom,  or  poisonous  blast  fiom 
the  desert,  at  a  distance,  has  the  appearance  of  a  haze,  in  color, 
like  the  purple  part  of  the  rainbow,  but  less  compressed  and  thick. 
The  one,  which  Bruce  dcfccribes,  was  not  more  than  20  yards  i:^ 
breadth  and  about  12  feet  from  the  groimd.  It  was  a  kind  of  blush 
upon  the  air,  and  moved  very  rapidly.  The  only  resouice  of  the 
traveller  is  to  fall  flat  upon  the  ground  with  his  face  to  the  earth. 
An  inhalation  of  the  fatal  atmosphere,  which  it  brings,  is  soon  sue- 


•6^  -NUBIA. 

cecdtfcl  by  death.     Afier  the  purple  meteor  has  vanished  a  light  air 
still  blows,  of  a  heat  to  threaten  suffocation. 

DoNGoi.A  is  a  town  on  tlic  E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  in  lat.  19  30  N. 
and  ion.  32°  E.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Dongola ; 
which  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Nile,  and  is  considerably  extensive. 

OFSennaar,  the  southern  kingdom  of  Nubia,  Bruce  has  given 
an  interesting  description.  It  may  be  considered  as  comprising  the 
country  between  tlic  Red  sea  and  the  Nile,  as  far  S.  as  the  N.  W. 
limits  of  Abyssinia  ;  as  comprehending  all  the  country  between  the 
Nile  and  the  Bahar  el  Abiad,  as  far  S.  as  the  cataracts  of  the  Nile  ; 
and  also  as  including  tlie  provinces  of  Shillook  and  Kordofan  on 
tiic  W.  of  the  latter  river.  The  kingdom  of  Darfur  is  its  S.  W. 
bonndnry. 

Th.e  Shiilooks,  a  black  nation,  who  conquered  this  country  in 
1504,  were  pagans.  Soon  after  they  were  converted  to  Mahom- 
medism  ;  when  thty  took  the  name  of  Funge,  or,  conquerors.  It  is 
a  fundamental  law  of  the  monarchy,  that  the  king  may  lawfully  be 
put  to  death,  when  a  council  of  the  great  officers  decrees,  that  it  is 
not  for  the  advantage  of  the  state  that  he  should  reign  any  longer. 
The  king  ascends  the  throne  under  an  admission  of  the  force  of 
this  law  ;  and  there  is  always  one  officer  of  his  own  family,  the  sid 
I'!  coon,  or  master  of  the  household,  to  whom  the  death  of  the  king 
is  on  such  occasions,  by  laiv,  entrusted.  This  officer  has  no  vote 
in  deposing  him.  The  only  weapon  he  may  lawfully  use  for  this 
purpose  is  a  sword.  The  eldest  son  of  the  king  succeeds  by  right, 
and,  imnicdiateiy  afterwards,  puts  to  death  as  many  of  his  brothers 
as  he  can  apprehend.  A  female  cannot  succeed  to  the  throne.  The 
crown,  since  1504,  has  always  been  in  the  family  of  Amrou.  The 
king  is  stvltd  the  Mek  of  Sennaar.  The  forces  at  Sennaar,  around 
the  capital,  consist  of  about  14,000  J\''l^l)a,^^ho  fight  naked,  having 
no  armor  but  a  short  javelin,  and  a  round  shield  ;  and  about  1800 
cavalry,  «11  blacks,  mounted  on  black  horses,  armed  with  coats  of 
3nail,  and  broad  Slavonian  swords.  These  last  are  remarkably 
brave  and  well  disciplined. 

The  revenue  derived  from  the  province  of  Kordofan  consists 
rhitlly  of  slaves  procured  from  Dyrc  and  Tegia.  That  of  Fezcu- 
cJo  is  in  gold  ;  as  is  that  from  Atbara  and  the  country  E.-of  the 
river  of  that  name.  The  Welled  Ageeb  collects  all  the  revenue 
from  the  Arabs.  It  amounts  to  a  very  large  sum  in  gold,  exceed- 
hitc  that  of  all  the  other  provinces.  He  pays  it  to  the  Mek.  His 
^own  revenues  from  the  Arabs  are  said  to  be  six  times  as  large. 

The  di'oss  of  Sennaar  is  very  simple.  It  consists  of  a  long  shirt 
of  blue  Surat  cloth,  called  Marowty,  which  covers  them  from  the 
lower  part  cf  tJie  neck  to  the  feet.  That  of  the  women  covers  the 
neck  also.  The  men  have  sometimes  a  sash  about  the  middle. 
ijioth  sexes  go  barefoot  in  the  house.  Their  floors  are  covered  with 
Persian  carpets.  In  fair  weather  they  wear  sandals  without,  and 
sometimes  a  kind  of  wooden  patten,  ornamented  with  shells.  Both 
scxe-s  anoint  themselves  at  least  once  a  day  with  camel's  grease, 
mixed  wiih  civet,  and  sleep  in  shirts  similarly  treated.  Their 
feeds  are  merely  tanned  bull's  hides  much  softened  by  this  constant 


Nubia.  (^sm 

g-rtasmg.     Tlie  principal  diet  of  tlie  poorer  sort   i»  iiiiilet,  made . 
into  flour  and  bread.     Tl>e  rich  make  a  puddiii'^  of  millet,  and  al- 
so eat  beef  parti)'  roasted  and  partly  raw.    Their  horned  calUc  are 
remarkably  fine  ;  but  the  coni:non  meat  sold  in  the  market  is  cam- 
el's llesh. 

The  town  ot  Sennaar  is  in  lat.  13  34  30,  N.  and  in  Ion.  33  50  30^ 
E.  It  is  built  on  the  west  side  of  the  Nile,  close  to  its  bank,  on 
ground  just  high  enough  to  save  it  from  inundations.  The  site  of 
the  town  is  extensive.  The  kinc^'s  palace  covers  a  great  deal  of 
ground.    It  is  all  of  one  story,  buill  of  clay,  and  the  floors  of  earth. 

El-Aice,  or  AUeis,  is  the  capital  of  the  Shillook  country.  It  is 
on  the  Bahar  el  Abiad,  in  about  lat.  13  30,  N.  The  river  dividini^ 
forms  a  great  number  of  islands.  On  these  and  the  rjcigliborint?-, 
banks  the  town  is  situated.  The  inhabitants  arc  chiefly  fishermen, 
and  sail  in  their  canoes  with  incredible  rapidity. 

Herbagi  stands  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Nile,  in  lat.  U  39,  N.  It- 
is  a  large  and  pleasant  village,  but  thinly  inhabited,  on  a  diy,  grav- 
elly soil.  The  AVelled  Ageebjthe  hereditary  prince  of  the  Arabs,* 
resides  here,  and  is  subject  to  the  king  of  Sennaar  and  his  lieuten- 
ant, aceording  to  treaty.  Hs  collects  a  tribute  fiom  all  the  Arabs^ 
not  only  of  Atbara,  but  even  to  the  Red  sea.  Tiie  tribes  living  cast 
of  the  Nile  and  of  the  Atbara,  subject  to  him,  are  numerous,  richy 
and  powerful. 

Suakem  is  a  port  on  the  Red  sea.  It  is  the  place  of  rcndcz^vous 
for  the  caravans,  which  cross  the  desert  on  their  way  to  Jidda. 

Formerly  Indian  goods  were  brought  in  large  quantiiics  from 
Jidda  to  Sennaar  ;  and  the  articles  returned  were  gold,  civet,  rhi- 
noceros's horns,  ivory,  ostrich  feathers,  slaves,  and  glass.  A  cara- 
van also  once  carae  from  Timbuctoo.  At  present  a  small  caravan 
goes  yearly  from  Goos  to  Suakem,  and  the  Daveina  A^rabs  earry 
the  ivory  to  Abyssinia. 

The  climate  of  this  country  is  neither  pleasant  nor  hcailhy.  At 
Sennaar,  from  70°  to  78°  of  Fahrenheit,  is  cool  ;  from  79?  to  92** 
temperate.  The  mercury  often  rises  to  120°.  The  soil  and  climate 
of  the  capital  are  very  unfavorable  to  longevity,  both  in  man  and 
beast.  "  No  horse,  mule,  ass,  or  any  beast  of  burden,  will  breed,  or 
even  live  at  Sennaar,  or  many  miles  around  it.  i*ouluy  does  not; 
live  there.  Neither  dog  nor  cat,  sheep  nor  bullock,  can  be  pre- 
served a  season.  Neither  rose  nor  any  species  of  jess;imine  grov.-" 
there  ;  no  tree  but  the  lemon  flowers  near  the  city."* 

To  the  W.  of  Shaddly  and  Aboud,  the  country  is  full  of  trtxs, 
which  make  it  a  favorite  station  for  camels.  The  Arabs  have  im- 
mense numbers  of  these  animals.  The  tribe  of  RiCaa,  in  1770,  had 
about  200,000.  The  tribute  of  that  tribe  to  the  IMek  was  250,OOy 
pounds  sterling,  in  gold.  Thei-e  were  then  10  such  tribes,  Vi'hii.h 
owed  this  species  of  subjection. 

•Dnice. 


640  ABYSSINIA. 


ABYSSINIA. 

Extent.  ABYSSINIA  extends  from  lat.  7'  to  1S»  N.  and  from 
Ion.  35°  to  44''  E.  Its  length  from  E.  to  W.  is  about  580  miles,; 
and  its  greatest  breadth  about  560.  It  reaches,  on  the  Red  sea, 
from  Masuah  to  the  straits  of  liabelrnandel,  420  miles. 

Boundaries.  The  Red  sea  lies  on  the  N.  E. ;  the  kingdom  of 
Adel,  on  the  E.  and  S.  E. ;  Gingiso  and  Alaba  on  the  S. ;  the  Nile 
•on  the  W. ;  Sennaar  on  the  N.  W. ;  and  the  country  of  the  Jaha- 
loen,  or  wild  Arabs,  and  of  the  Shankala,  or  descendants  of  the  an- 
cient Ethiopians  on  the  N. 

The  Gallas,  a  wild  and  marauding  nation,  have  encroached  on 
the  limits  of  Abyssinia,  and  now  occupy  various  provinces  on  the 
S.  W.  S.  and  S.  E. 

DiviNions.  This  country,  according  to  Mr.  Bruce,  is  divided  in- 
to the  following  provinces,  viz. 

1.  Masuah  5.  Amhara.  9.  Maisha 

2.  Tigre  6.  Walaka  10.  Dembea 

3.  Samrn  7.  Gojam  11.  Kuara 

4.  Eegemder  8.  Damot  12,  Nara 
jVames.     Bruce  tells  us,  that  the    Chronicle  of  Axum.,  the  most 

ancient  Abysshiian  history,  declares  that  the  Sheba,  or  Saba  of  the 
scriptures,  whose  queen  visited  Solomon,  was  Abyssinia. 

Beliffion.  The  Jewish  religion  is  said,  by  Bruce,  to  have  been 
prevalent  in  Abyssinia,  till  near  the  middle  of  the  4th  century. 
Frumenlius,  a  disciple  of  St.  Athanasius,  at  Alexandria,  and  the 
iirst  Christian  bishop  of  Abyssinia,  was  ordained  about  A.  D.  333, 
Tliis  was  about  the  time  of  their  conversion  ;  and  the  primitive 
faith  of  the  Abyssinians  having  been  received  through  this  channel, 
must  have  accorded  with  the  peculiar  tenets  of  the  Greek  church. 
The  first  attempt  to  spread  the  Romish  faith  was  made  about  the 
year  1450,  in  the  reign  of  Zara  Jacob.  In  1632  their  hierarchy  was 
abolished.  They  were  allowed  however  to  remain  in  the  country, 
till  1714,  when  their  clergy  were  executed.  Since  that  time  there 
have  been  few  or  no  Catholics  in  the  country. 

The  patriarch  of  the  Abyssinian  church,  is  styled  the  Jbuna. 
By  an  ancient  canon,  l^e  must  not  be  a  native  of  the  country,  and  is 
aUvays  s^;nt  frojn  E-^ypt.  The  priests  have  their  maintenance  as- 
signed to  them  in  kind,  and  do  not  labor.  The  direction  and  dis- 
li'ibution  of  the  church  revenues,  is  wholly  in  the  hands  of  officers, 
appointed  by  the  king.  All  the  clergy  are  deplorably  ignorant, 
heretical  in  tiieir  tenets,  and  licentious  in  their  lives.  There  is  no' 
coiunry  in  the  world,  in  which  thtre  are  so  many  churches  as  in 
Abyssinia.  It  is  seldom  that  less  than  5  or  6  are  in  sight,  in  any 
part  of  the  country  ;  and,  on  a  commanding  ground,  one  may  see  5 
limrs  as  many.  They  are  usually  planted  near  running  water,  for 
5hc  purposes  of  pm-ifications  and  ablutions,  in  which  they  strictly 
obBcVve  the  Levitical  law.  They  are  all  round,  with  thatched 
loofs  ;  and  tfeeir  summits  are  perfect  cones.     The  inside  is  cover- 


ABYSSINIA.  6it 

«d  with  wretciicd  daiibings  of  their  various  saints.  Among  these, 
are  St.  Pontius  Pilate,  and  his  wife ;    St.  Balaam,  and  his  ass. 

Governmejit.  The  g^overnment  is  an  absolute  monarcliy.  The 
crown  is  hereditary  in  one  particular  family,  supposed  by  the 
Abyssinians  to  be  that  of  Solomon,  by  the  queen  of  Sheba.  The 
royal  council  is  composed  of  the  great  officers  of  state.  When 
Bruce  left  the  country,  tl'.e  power  of  the  iiing  was  insignificant; 
the  Rasi  or  governor  of  Tigre,  having  almost  the  whole  direction 
of  the  government.  The  different  capital  punishments  are  cruci- 
iixion,  flaying  alive,  lapidatioii,  and  plucking  out  the  eyes. 

Fofiiilation.  We  have  no  data  on  which  to  form  a  correct  judge- 
ment of  the  population  of  this  country.  It  has  been  cstim.ated  at 
3,000,000.     Hassel  reckons  only  1,800,000. 

Army.  Bruce  says,  that  the  largest  armies  ever  collected  in  the 
country,  were  at  the  battle  of  Serbraxos.  The  rebels  had  them 
60,000  men,  and  the  king  40,000.  Tiie  usual  amount  of  the  army 
docs  not  exceed  2o,0()0.  Hassel,  hov/ever,  reckons  the  number  at 
40,000.  The  cavalry  is  good.  The  king's  hcuscr.old  troops  con- 
sist of  8000  infantry.  They  are  armed  with  matchlocks.  Most  of 
the  other  troops  have  only  lances  and  shields. 

Revenue.  I'he  royal  revenue  is  paid  partly  in  ounces  of  gold  ; 
and  partly  in  honey,  cattle,  horses,  cloths,  and  various  other  arti- 
cles. 

Manners  and  Customs.  The  principal  part  of  the  dress  of  the 
natives  is  a  large  cotton  cloth,  24  cubits  long,  and  ]|  broad,  with  a 
blue  and  yellow  stripe  round  the  bottom.  They  ai'e  very  beautiful 
:ind  light.  When  they  ride  they  hold  tlie  stirrup  between  the  great 
and  second  toes.  Even  the  king  rides  bare-footed.  Almost  all  the 
houses  arc  Ijuilt  of  clay,  witli  thatched  conical  roofs.  The  chief  ar- 
licles  of  food  arc  cakes  of  unleavened  bread,  and  raw  flesh,  which 
us  far  as  possible  they  cut  from  the  animal  while  living,  that  it  maf 
be  the  more  tender.  The  ordinary  marriage  is  contracted  by  mu- 
tual consent  without  tny  ceremony,  and  is  dissolved  by  the  dissent 
of  either  purty.  As  -ooon  as  this  takes  place,  both  parties  marry- 
again.  'I'licy  also  divide  the  children,  the  eldest  son  falling  to  th© 
moilicr  and  the  eldest  cbughter  to  the  father.  The  country  has  foi* 
mariy  vears  been  the  scene  &f  civil  wars,  which  have  called  into 
exercise  all  l!ie  ferocious  passior.s,  arid  exhibited  a  constant  suc- 
cession of  treachery,  murder,  and  assassination. 

CiUcfs.  GoNDAK.,  the  capital,  is  in  lat.  12  34  30  N.  and  in  Ion. 
S7  53  E,  It  is  situated  on  a  hill  of  coiisiderabie  height,  surrounded 
by  a  deep  valley.  The  river  Kaha  flows  N.  of  the  town,  and  the 
Angrab  skirts  the  hill  on  the  S.  They  together  almost  encircle  the 
town,  and  unite  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  it,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 
The  top  of  the  hill  is  a  plain  of  very  considerable  extent.  The 
length  of  tl>c  town  is  3  luiles  from  E.  N.  E.  to  W.  S.  W.  and  its 
breaulh  i  mile.  It  contains  about  10,000  houses,  and  about  50,000 
inhabilants.  Immediately  on  the  bank,  opposite  Gondar,  is  a  large 
Mahometan  village,  of  about  1000  houses.  The  royal  palace  is  at 
the  W.  end  of  the  town,  in  the  middle  of  a  square  court,  which  is  a 
mile  in  circumference.     A  substantial  double  stone  wall  surrounds 


648  ABYSSINIA. 

the  square.  It  is  30  feet  high.  There  are  battlements  on  the  outer 
wall,  and  a  pa.rapet  roof  between  the  outer  and  inner.  The  town 
contains  numerous  churches. 

AxuM,  the  ancient  capital,  is  in  lat.  14  6  56  N.  and  Ion.  38  40 
E.  It  stands  in  a  plain,  140  miles  N-  E.  from  Gondar,  and  120 
from  the  Red  s&a.  It  is  now  a  heap  of  ruins.  The  present  town^ 
at  a  little  distance  from  the  ruins,  contains  about  600  houses. 

Masuah  is  on  a  small  island,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  long,  and 
of  half  that  width.  Not  more  than  a  tlurd  of  its  surface  is  covered 
with  houses.  Tiie  island  is  in  the  Urs^e  bay  of  Masuah,  in  lat.  15 
35 '5  N.  and'  Ion.  39  56  30  E.  About  20  of  the  houses  are  of 
stone,  6  or  8  of  which  are  of  two  stories.  The  other  houses  are 
composed  of  poles  and  bent  grass. 

Arkeeko  is  on  the  bay  of  Masuah.  There  is  water  enough  for 
large  vessels  close  to  the  town  ;  but  the  bay  being  open  to  the  N. 
E.  makes  it  uneasy  riding  in  blowing  weather.  The  town  contains 
about  400  houses,  built  principally  of  coarse  grass,  like  reeds. 

Commerce.  Before  the  discovery  of  the  Ca^je  of  Good  Hope,  th©. 
commerce  of  this  country  was  valuable.  It  was  carried  on  chiefly 
with  Arabia  and  India,  and  Masuah  was  a  harbor  of  great  resort- 
Gold,  ivory,  eleohants,  and  buffaloes'  hides,  were  the  chief  exports  ; 
and  they  are  now  exported  to  some  extent.  Slaves  also  are  export- 
ed to  India  and  Arabia.  The  imports  from  Arabia  are  blue  cotton, 
Surat  cloths,  cotton  in  bales,  Venetian  beads,  drinking  and  looking- 
glasses,  and  crude  ?.ntJmony.  A  small  caravan  goes  yearly  to  Cairo, 
laden  with  gold  dust. 

Climate.  The  rainy  season  commences  in  April,  and  ends  about 
the  8th  of  Septcmbe!-.  An  unpleasant  sickly  season  follows,  till 
about  the  20th  of  October,  when  the  rains  recommence.  Bruce 
kept  a  register  of  t!ic  weather  at  Gondar  upwards  of  15  months. 
The  greatest  elevation  of  the  mercury  was  91°,  in  April,  the  least, 
54"^  in  July.  The  liills  are  generally  healthy,  and  great  numbers 
of  the  towns  and  villages  arc  built  on  them. 

Face  q/  the  Country.  The  surface  in  the  middle  and  S.  is  gen- 
erally rugged  and  mountainous,  and  abounds  with  forests  and  mo- 
rasses. It  is  also  interspersed  with  many  fertile  valleys  and  plains. 
In  the  N.  it  is  chiefly  a  flat  country. 

Soil  and  Jgrknlture.  The  soil,  though  thin  is  rendered  very 
p'."cductive  by  the  rains,  and  tlie  overflowing  of  the  rivers.  Wherc  = 
ever  it  can  be  tiikd  and  v.ell  watered,  it  yields  abundant  crops.  At 
a  medium  a  harvest  is  only  about  20  for  I.  All  their  harvests  are 
not  equal  to  one  in  Egypt. 

Rivers.  The  eastern  branch  of  the  Nile  rises  in  Abyssinia,  and 
is  for  some  distance  its  eastern  boundary.     It  has  been  described. 

Tb.c  Ati:)t>ra  pursues  a  N.  W.  course  of  about  800  miles,  and 
joins  the  Nile,  in  lat.  17  50  N. 

The  Rahad,  or  Dender,  is  a  considerable  river  that  joins  the  Nile 
fi'orri  the  E.  40  nuies  below  Sennaar. 

Lake.  The  lake  of  Tzana,  or  Dembea,  lies  24  mile*  S.  S.  W. 
of  Gondar.  It  is  49  miles  in  length,  and  35  in  breadth.  It  contains 
!0  or  12  islands,  some  of  considerable  size. 


EASTERN  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  e43 

'Mountains.  A  chain  of  mountains  runs  along  the  whole  coast  of 
'the  Red  sea,  from  Suez  to  Babelmanclel.  In  lat.  1 3",  a  chain  leaves 
•it  to  the  S.  W.  and  W.  which  crosses  the  Nile  at  its  cataracts, 
and  unites  with  the  mountains  of  Tugula.  Still  farther  S,  a  chain 
seems  to  separate  from  it  in  the  same  direction,  and  passing  S.  of 
the  Nile,  to  join  the  mountains  of  the  Moon. 


EASTERN  COAST  OF  AFRICA. 

THE  coast,  from  Cape  Gardefan,  to  the  equator,  is  called  JJa?i^ 
and  includes  the  kingdoms  of  Jdel  and  Magados:o. 

Adel.  Adel  lies  S.  E.  of  Abyssinia,  has  the  country  of  the  Gal- 
las  oD  the  W.  and  Magadoxo  on  the  S.  It  commences,  on  the  N. 
W.  at  the  straits  of  Babelmandel.  The  country  is  popuIojjSi  and 
has  proved  too  powerful  for  its  enemy.  Several  of  the  provinces 
of  Abyssinia  are  now  subject  to  Add.  Tlic  inhabitants  are  tawney, 
and  have  long,  straight  hair.  Zeila,  its  principal  sea  port,  is  about 
50  miles  S.  of  the  straits  of  Babelmandel,  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  of 
Zeila.  Adel,  the  royal  residence,  is  in  lat.  8  5  N.  Ion.  44  20  E. 
on  the  Hawash.  Assem  is  a  sea-port  on  the  eastern  coast,  and 
Meta  on  the  northern.  The  country,  theugh  it  seldom  has  any 
rain,  is  so  well  watered  by  rivers  and  canals,  that  it  is  very  fertile 
and  productive.  It  yields  abundance  of  wheat,  barley,  and  millet. 
The  chief  exports  are  gold  dust,  frankincense,  ivory,  and  slaves. 
The  Arabs  come  to  Zeila  to  trade  with  the  Adelites. 

Magadoxo.  This  kingdom  is  bounded  N.  on  Ad^l,  and  S.  ou 
Melinda,  between  the  equator,  and  5°  N.  lat.  Its  limits  in  the  in- 
terior are  not  ascertained.  The  inhabitants  are  stout  and  warlike, 
and  speak  Arabic.  The  king  and  his  court  are  Mahometans,  and 
most  of  the  inhabitants  are  of  the  same  religion.  A  few  in  ilie  in- 
terior are  Abyssinian  Christians.  Magadoxo,  the  capital,  in  about 
lat.  2  30  N.  is  a  place  of  great  commerce  with  the  Arabs,  and  the 
people  of  Adel.  Gold,  ivory,  wax,  and  slaves,  are  exported  for 
cotton,  siik,  spices,  and  drugs.  Tlie  city  stands  at  the  mouth  of  a 
large  river,  called  by  the  Arabs,  The  Nile  of  Magadoxo. 

The  coast  south  of  the  equator,  as  far  as  about  lat.  24°,  is  called 
The  Coast  of  Zanguebar.  It  comprehends  a  number  of  kingdoms. 

Melinda.  This  kingdom  bounds  N.  on  Magadoxo,  reaching 
to  the  equator.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  Mahometans,  but  some 
are  idolaters.  The  king  is  absolute,  and  is  held  in  great  venera- 
tion by  his  subjects.  Melinda,  the  capital,  is  in  lat.  2  50  S.  It  is 
in  a  beautiful  plain,  on  the  coast,  surrounded  by  fine  gardens  and 
orchards.  The  houses  are  built  of  square  stone.  They  are  for  the 
most  part  handsome,  and  some  are  even  magnificent.  It  is  the 
habitation  of  many  wealthy  merchants,  Arabs,  and  Portuguese. 
The  exports  are  gold,  copper,  ivory,  wax,  and  drugs.  The  harbor 
is  difficult  of  access.  The  Portuguese  have  a  fortress  here,  and 
several  churches.  The  territory  is  generally  rich  and  fertile.  The 
necessaries  of  life  are  abundant,  and  the  fine  tropical  fruits  ar» 
found  in  high  perfection. 


644  EASTERN  COAST  OF  AFRICA. 

MoMDAZA.  This  is  the  next  country  S.  of  Melinda.  The  Por- 
tuguese early  subjugated  it,  and,  we  believe,  have  now  the  hoh-. 
government.  The  people  are  move  civilized  than  any  others  on 
ihe  coast.  The  aboriginal  blacks  are  partly  idoiaters,  and  partly 
Mahometans.  The  Arabs  are  Mahometans,  and  are  numerous. 
The  Portuguese  are  also  numerous,  and  are  Christians.  Momba- 
zo,  the  capital,  is  in  lat.  3  45  S.  It  has  a  deep  and  commodious 
harbor,  and  is  well  defended.  The  streets  are  straight  and  narrow. 
The  houses  arc  built  of  stone,  with  terraced  roofs.  Its  commerce 
is  extenaive.  The  climate,  is  said  to  be  healthy,  and  the  soil  is 
highly  productive.     Millet  and  rice  are  principally  cultivated. 

QuiLOA.  Quiloa  is  S.  o'"  Mombazo,  and  extends  abou-t  60  leagues 
from  N.  to  S.  P^ost  of  the  inhabitants  arc  Mahometans.  The  king 
is  absolute  over  his  ovm  subjects,  but  tributary  to  the  Portuguese. 
The  Arabic  is  universally  spoken-  The  inhabitants  arc  chiefly  ne- 
groes, but  some  are  Arabs.  The  city  of  Quiica  is  in  lat.  8  50  S. 
it  stands  on  an  island,  near  the  mcuth  of  the  Coaro,  and  is  said  t{) 
be  large,  rich,  and  well  built.  The  climate  is  healthy,  and  on  the 
€oast,  temperate.  The  soil  is  generally  fertile,  and  produces  mil- 
let, rice,  fruits,  and  good  pasture. 

MosAMBiquE  is  S.  of  Quiloa.  It  reaches  from  about  lat.  10°  to 
15°  S.  Arabic  is  extensively  spoken.  The  Portuguese  have  long 
been  the  real  masters  of  the  kingdom.  The  capital  is  situated  ori 
the  small  island  of  Mosamhique,  2  miles  from  the  main,  in  about 
lat.  14°  S.  It  is  handsomely  built,  has  a  number  of  elegant 
churches  and  convents,  and  is  protected  and  kept  in  subjection  by 
a  very  strong  fort,  at  a  little  dittance.  There  are  several  consider- 
able ports  on  the  main.  Ivory,  ebony,  slaves,  and  cattle,  are  ex- 
ported. The  soil  of  the  country  is  rich,  and  produces  millet,  rice, 
and  various  fruits  and  vegetables.  Vaot  numbers  of  cattle  are  here 
raised.     The  forests  abound  with  elephants,  wild  boars,  and  stags. 

MoNOMOTAPA.  This  is  also  an  extensive  country,  reaching  fron^ 
about  lat.  15"  to  20*^  S.  and  stretching  420  iniles  along  the  coast. 
The  emperor  is  pov/erful.  The  influence  of  the  Portuguese  i& 
considerable.  The  natives  arc  ail  black,  are  well  shaped,  robust,, 
active,  and  fond  of  war.  Polygamy,  lo  any  extent,  is  allowed.  The 
emperors  in  this  particular  often  rival  Solomon.  Tiie  metropolis 
is  called  Benemctapa,  and  is  a  large  spacious  city,  several  dajV 
journey  from  the  coast.  The  houses  are  neat,  and  are  generally 
•whitewashed.  The  Portuguese  are  settled  on  the  coast,  and  are 
the  merchants  of  the  country.  Gold  »m\  ivory  are  extensively  ex- 
ported. Tlie  climate  is  described  as  healthy,  and  temperate,  and; 
the  surface  as  chiefly  upland.  'I'here  is  a  chain  of  high  mountains 
in  the  hitcrior,  from  which  most  of  the  gold  is  procured.  The 
Zambczc,  or  Cuama,  is  a  long  river  in  t'le  southern  part  of  Mono- 
motapa  Propei-. 

SoFALA.  This  country,  bounding  Monomotapa  on  the  S.  is  de- 
scribed as  reaching  about  t4U  miles  along  the  coast,  and  3bO  into, 
the  interior.  A  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants  are  Ma- 
hometans. The  capital,  Sofala,  is  at  the  mouth  of  a  large  river  o^ 
the  same  name,  in  about  lat.  2  PS.    Bruce  supposes  that  it  waSt 


COLONY  OF  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE.   G-iS 

the  Ophir  of  Solomon.  The  PortiJgnese  have  here  a  strong  fort- 
Large  quantities  of  gold  are  procured  from  the  mountains. 

Sabia,  a  small  country  S.  of  Sofula,  is  ricli,  fertile,  ai)''!  poi^.ulous.. 

Inhambane,  S.  of  Sabia,  terminates  the  Z^mgncbar  coast. 

Natal  is  tlie  name  given  to  the  \\iiole  coast  S.  of  tiic  toast  of 
Zanguebar,  as  far  as  the  colony  of  the  Cape. 

The  Caffevf!  are  a  numerous  race,  inhabiting  on  the  borders  of 
the  Cape  colony. 


COLONY  OF  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

Extent.  ACCORDING  to  Barrow,  its  eastern  limit  is  in  Ion. 
28  20  E.  Its  northern,  on  the  Atlantic,  in  lat.  29  55  S.  Cape 
L'Aguiilas,  the  southern  extremity  of  the  continent,  is  in  lat.  34  50 
S.  The  length  on  the  S.  coast  is  580  miles;  on  the  N.  320.  The 
breadth  in  the  W.  is  315;  in  the  middle  1(50;  in  the  E.  225. 
These  measures  give  a  parallelogram,  whose  mean  length  is  550 
miles,  and  mean  breadth  253  ;  comprehending  an  area  of  128,150 
square  miles. 

Boundaries.  On  the  N.  lie  several  extensive  arid  plains,  and 
several  large  tracts  of  country  inhabited  by  the  Bosjesmen  ;  on  the 
E.  the  land  of  the  Caffres  ;  on  the  S.  the  Southern  ocean  ;  and  on 
the  W.  the  Atlantic.  The  Namaquas,  on  the  N.  W.  arc  chiefly 
within  t^ie  colony  ;  as  are  some  of  the  Caffres,  and  many  of  the 
Bosjesmen. 

Divisions.  The  colony  is  divided  into  four  distiicts  ;  1,  Cape 
district  in  the  S.  W.  2.  Stellenborch  district  in  the  W.  3.  Zwel- 
lendam  district,  which  no  where  extends  far  into  the  interior.  4, 
Graaft  Reynet  district,  which  comprizes  all  the  country  E.  of  Ly- 
on's river,  and  N.  E.  of  Zwcllendam. 

Religion.  Calvinism  was  the  establislied  religion  of  the  colo- 
ny while  in  the  hands  of  the  Dutch.  Other  sects  weie  tolerated. 
The  Lutherans  and  Methodists  had  each,  a  church  at  Cape  Town. 
The  Malay  Mahometans,  having  been  refused  a  church,  per- 
formed their  public  service  in  the  stone  quarries  at  the  head  of 
the  town.  The  funds  of  the  Calvinislic  church  at  that  place,  in 
1798,  amounted  to  22,168/.  8*.  8:/.  ;  and  their  annual  grants  to 
the  poor,  to  1,1 12/.  \7s.  The  funds  of  the  Lutherans  were  14,829/. 
13s.  2d.  ;  and  their  grants  to  the  poor,  194/.  9s.  2d.  'I'he  Church 
of  England  is  probably  now  established. 

Missions.  The  Moravians  many  years  ago  establiahed,  and  have 
to  this  time  successfully  maintained  a  mission  at  Bavian's  Kloof, 
within  the  limits  of  this  colony.  About  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century,  immediately  after  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  ajid  its  depen- 
dencies came  into  the  possession  of  the  British  nation,  a  number  of 
missionaries,  with  the  venerable  Dr.  Vanderkemp  at  their  head, 
were  sent  to  this  southern  part  of  Africa,  by  the  London  Missiona- 
ry Society,  whose  labors  among  the  colonists,  but  especially  among 
the  natives,  have  been  attended  with  various  degrees  of  success, 
%nd  are  still  continued. 


fe'i6      COLONY  OF  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

(Tovernvu7it.  The  government  is  entrusted  to  a  governor  aivd 
licutunant  governor,  appointed  by  the  crown  ;  who  also  are  consti- 
tuted the  l/iL^h  court  of  appeals. 

Fopvlation.  Biirtov/  estimated  the  population  of  the  whole  col- 
ony, m  1797,  whites,  slaves,  and  Hottentots,  at  60,000,  of  whom 
22,000  W'cre  Ciiristians.  Its  population  must  have  since  greatly  in- 
creased. 

Re-oc7iue.  Tiie  revenue  in  1801  amounted  to  90,142/.  \3s.  Ad. 
sterling  ;  and,  during  the  whole  government  of  Lord  Macartney, 
was  more  than  adequate  to  the  expenditure. 

Manners  and  Cuatoms.  The  free  inhabitants  of  the  colony  con- 
sist of  4  classes:  the  inhabitaTits  of  the  capital,  wine-growers, 
corn-iarmers,  and  graziers. 

Chief  Tonvns.  Cape  Town,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  the  S.  E. 
angle  of  Table  Bay.  Simon's  bay,  a  cove  or  indent  on  the  west- 
ern shore  of  False  bay,  affords  a  safe  harbor.  During  8  months, 
when  toe  S.  E.  winds  are  predominant,  Table  bay  affords  a  most 
secure  shelter.  The  town  is  built  on  a  sloping  plain,  that  rises 
Avith  an  easy  ascent  to  the  feet  of  Devil's  hill,  on  the  E.  of  Table 
■mountain  on  tb.e  S.  and  of  Lion's  Head  on  the  N.  W.  The  citadel 
•or  castle  is  a  pentagonal  fort,  which  commands  the  town  and  th« 
anchorage  ;  but  is  itself  commanded  by  the  commencing  acclivity 
on  the  E.  This  acclivity  is  now  occupied  by  various  redoubts, 
batteries,  and  block  houses,  comnnanding  each  other.  The  streets 
are  straight,  and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  Many  of  them 
arc  well  paved,  open,  and  airy  :  with  canals  of  water  running; 
through  them,  walled  in,  and  planted  on  each  side  with  rows  of 
oaks.  Three  or  four  public  squares  give  an  openness  to  the  town. 
In  one  is  held  the  public  market;  anotker  is  the  resort  of  the 
peasantry  with  their  waggons  ;  and  another,  near  the  shore  of  the 
bay,  and  between  the  town  and  the  castle,  is  a  place  of  parade 
for  the  troops.  This  is  an  open,  airy,  and  extensive  plain,  perfect- 
ly level,  composed  of  a  bed  of  firm  clay,  covered  with  small  hard 
gravel.  It  is  surrounded  by  canals  or  ditches,  which  receive  the 
"Waters  of  the  town,  and  convey  them  into  the  bay.  Two  of  its 
sides  arc  completely  built  up  with  large  and  handsome  houses  ; 
and  a  tiiird  ia  occupied  by  the  barracks,  a  large,  well-designed  reg- 
ular buiidiiig,  with  two  wings.  The  upper  part  of  this  building 
is  large  though  to  contain  4000  men.  The  castle  contains  bar- 
nacks  for  1000,  lodgings  for  the  officers  of  one  regiment,  magazines 
for  artillery,  stores,  and  ammunition,  and  most  of  the  public  offices 
cf  government.  The  other  public  buildings  are  a  Calvinist,  Luther- 
an, Episcopal,  and  Methodist  church,  a  guard  house,  in  which  the 
Burgher  Senate  meet,  a  large  building  for  the  government  slaves, 
and  a  court  house.  The  houses,  1145  in  number  in  1797,  are 
built  with  great  regularity  and  order.  They  are  generally  white- 
washed, with  the  doors  and  windows  painted  green,  two  stories 
higii,  with  -flat  rools,  and  a  kind  of  pediment  in  the  centre  of  the 
iront.  The  population  at  that  time  consisted  of  about  5,500  whites, 
and  12,000  blacks. 

-Reads,  tfc.     The  roads  near  the  cape  are  good.     But  in  the 


COLONY  OF  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE.   G^r 

jjreat  body  of  the  colony,  theii'  character  depends  on  the  nature 
of  the  surface  and  of  the  soil  ;  as  they  arc  wholly  neg;lectcd  by  the 
boors. 

ConimcTcc.  Wine  and  l^randy  are  tlie  staple  commodities  of 
the  Cape.  Ten  or  twelve  different  kiiuls  of  wine  are  manufactured. 
The  other  exports  are  <^rain  and  puise,  wool,  hides  and  skins, 
%vl)ale  oil  and  bone,  diied  fruits,  salt  provisions,  soap  and  candles^ 
aloes,  ivory,  ostrich  feathers,  and  tohiicco.  The  annual  valttc  of 
wine  and  brandy  exported,  is  about  S30,()00  ;  aloes  6jOO  ;  skins 
6000;  dried  fruit  oOOO  ;  ivory  1600:  ostrich  feathers  luOO.  The 
total  value  of  exports  for  4  years,  (1799 — 1302)  was  B300, y.'^5» 
The  imports  for  the  same  period,  amounted  to  ;Cl)195;50r  Zs.  6d, 
currency.  The  imports  from  Eni!;land  were^  woollens,  cottons, 
hardware,  cutlery,  haberdashery,  millineiy;  boots,  shoes,  stationary, 
furniture,  paints  and  oils,  earthen  ware,  nayai  stores,  smolieci 
meats,  cheese,  and  pickles  ;  from  the  E.  Sui'at  piece-p;oods,  tea, 
coffee,  sugar,  pepper,  spices,  and  rice  ;  from  America,  lumber, 
salt-fish,  pitch  and  turpentine  ;  from  the  N.  of  Europe,  iron,  plank, 
French  wines,  beer,  gm,  Seiizer  \yater,  coffee,  and  pi-escrvcs  ;  and 
slaves  from  the  coast  of  Guinea. 

Climate.  Theyearisdividedintofourseasons,the  reverse  of  l!;os& 
in  northern  latitudes.  The  spii.ig,  from  the  fjrstof  Septembor  la 
the  first  of  December,  isthemostagreeable.  The  sum  .ner  from  De- 
cember to  March,  is  the  hottest ;  the  autumn,  from  March  to  June, 
is  variable,  but  generally  fine  and  })leasant  weather.  The  v-finter, 
from  June  to  September,  though  the  greater  part  of  the  time  pleas- 
ant, is  frequently  stormy,  rainy  and  cold.  T!ie  two  most  jwwer- 
ful  winds,  are  the  N.  W.  and  S.  E.  The  first  commences  toivards' 
the  end  of  May,  and  blov/a  occasionally  to  the  end  of  August,  and 
sometimes  to  the  end  of  September  ;  usually  about  4  months  in 
each  year.  The  S.  E.  predominates  the  rest  of  the  year  ;  andjr- 
when  the  cloud  shows  itself  on  the  niountain,  blows  with  great 
violence.  "  In  the  midst  of  one  of  these  storms  of  wind,"  says  the 
Abbe  De  la  Caille,  "  the  stars  look  larger,  and  seem  to  dance  ;  the 
moon  has  an  undulating  tremor  ;  and  the  planets  have  a  sort  of 
beard,  like  comets." 

Face  of  the  Coiaiirii.  Tlie  Cape  Peninsula  is  a  lil;4a  mour.- 
tainous  tract,  betv/een  Table  and  False  Bays,  36  miles  from  N.  to 
S.  and  8  from  E.  to  W.  connected  with  the  main  by  a  low  ilat  istii- 
mus,  from  20  to  30  feet  above  high  water  mirk,  'i'iiis  isthmus, 
has  few  irregularities  of  surface,  except  such  as  arc  made  by 
ridges  of  sand,  adventitiously  brought  tiiither  !)y  the  stro])g  S.  E. 
winds  from  the  shores  of  FaNe  iiay.  Tlie  Table  Mountiin,  ilank- 
cd  by  the  Devil's  Hill  on  the  E.  and  the  Llt-n's  He;ul  on  the  W, 
forms  the  northern  extremity  of  the  peninsula.  The  whole  tract 
of  country  to  the  N.  of  the  Cape,  is  much  more  sandy,  barren,  and 
thinly  inhabited,  than  to  the  E.  in  v/hieh  direction  it  increases  in 
beauty  and  fertility  with  the  distance. 

Ai^ricidture.  Barrow  calculates  that  at  least  half  of  the  land 
in  the  colony  may  be  considered  iis  an  u;iprofiu\l)le  waste,  unfit  tot 
any  sort  of  culture,  or  even  to  be  employed  as  pasture  for  cattle. 


248   COLONY,  OF  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

The  lands  are  held  by  the  colonists  by  different  tenures.  Those 
in  fee  nim/ile  are  chiefly  in  and  near  the  Cape  District,  and  are 
ihc  clioicest  patches  of  land,  consisting  of  120  acres  each.  Beside 
these  ate  the  quic  rents^  the  gratuity  laiids  and  the  loan  landsy 
Avhich  are  farms  granted  to  the  first  settlers,  and  are  each  a  square 
of  o  miles  on  a  side,  (9  square  miles,  or  5760  acres)  paying  a  rent 
of  24  dollars  per  fai'ni.  In  1798  the  nuniber  of  these  farms  was 
1832,  containing  16,488  square  miles,  or  10,552,330  acres,  renting 
at  '13.978  lix-doUars. 

Vv'iiic  is  chicily  cultivated  in  an  extensive  valley  on  Berg 
River,  called  Drakenstcin  Valley.,  commencing  about  60  miles  E. 
of  the  Cape.  Tiiis  valley  is  a  remarkably  fertile  tract  of  land,  and 
is  owned  wholly  in  fee  simple.  The  variety  of  wines  is  very  great. 
About  6000  pipes,  of  154  gallons  each  arc  made  annually  in  this 
valley.  Great  quantities  of  choice  fruits  are  also  raised  here  ;  and 
every  month  in  the  year,  at  Cape  Town,  liie  table'may  be  supplied, 
at  a  very  low  rate,  with  10  or  12  different  sorts  of  fruit,  all  excel- 
lent. The  celebrated  Constantia  ivinc  is  raised  on  two  farms,  close 
under  the  mountains,  about  midway  between  False  and  Table  Bays. 
One  of  the  farms  produces  the  wA/Ve,  and  the  other  the  rerf  Con- 
stantia. From  150  to  200  leaguers  or  pipes  are  annually  made  of 
both. 

The  coffee  and  sugar  cane  may  both  be  profitably  cultivated. 
Two  species  of  indigo  grow  wild.  Flax  yields  two  crops  a  year. 
Hemji  IS  raised  in  lieu  of  tobacco.  The  cactus,  on  which  the 
cochineal  insect  feeds,  grows  wild.  All  the  distant  farms  are  de- 
voted to  grazing,  and  immense  numbers  of  cattle  are  annually 
raised  for  exportation,  and  driven  from  100  to  600  miles  to  Cape 
Town. 

Rivers.  Great  Fish  River  is  very  deep,  and  from  300  to  400 
yards  broad.  It  rises  in  the  N.  E.  part  of  tne  colony,  and  runs  in  a 
S  and  S.  S.  E.  course  about  300  miles,  into  the  sea  580  miles  E. 
of  the  Cape. 

Sunday  River  is  at  least  250  miles  long  ;  and,  running  S.  and 
S.  S.  E.  falls  into  Zwartkofi's  Bay. 

Great  River  \ViVi%  irito  Cantoos  Bay. 

Gauritz  River  empties  a  little  W.  of  Muscle  Bay.  It  may 
propciiy  be  called  the  Sink  of  the  Colony.  All  the  waters  that 
originai'e  within  150  miles  to  the  E.  or  W.  upon  the  Great  Kar- 
roo, and  along  the  Nieuwveldt,  meet  in  one  imniense  chasm  of 
the  chain  cf  mountains  r.earest  tlie  sea,  and  are  discharged  through 
the  chanr.el  of  the  Gauritz.  In  tho  dry  season,  it  is  easily  ford- 
ed ;  in  the  rainy  seasons,  it  has  been  known  io  rise  to  the  height 
ofncariy  ICO  feet,  leaving  ruin  and  desolation  behirid  it. 

Bays'.  Saldanha  bay,  as  a  spacious,  secure,  and  commodious 
sheet  of  inland  sea-water,  for  the  reception  of  shipping,  can  scarce- 
iv  perhaps  be  equalled.  It  extends  in  lcn;r.tli  about  I  5  miles,  in 
the  direction  of  the  c»ast,  which  is  here  about  N.  by  E.  and  S.  by 
W.  The  entrance  is  near  the  N.  end,  through  a  ridge  cf  granite 
hills,  inoderately  high. 

Tabic  bav  has  bec-n  described. 


WESTERN  COAST  AND  INTERIOR  OF  AFRICA.  6*9 

False  bay  is  a  large  body  of  water  in  the  shape  of  a  parallelo- 
gram, E.  of  the  Cape  Peninsula,  opeijing  into  the  Southern  Ocean, 
between  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  on  the  W.  and  Hanglip  Point  oa 
the  K. 

Muscle  bay,  like  all  those  on  the  southern  coast,  is  open  to  the 
S.  E.  but  has  a  safe  and  ^ood  anchorage  in  most  winds.  A  mag- 
azine for  the  reception  of  grain  is  erected  near  the  landing  place. 
It  is  a  strong  stone  building,  159  feet  long,  and  will  conveniently 
hold  10,000  bushels. 

Plctteiiberg's  bay  is  320  miles  from  the  cape.  The  west  point, 
is  in  lat.  34  6  S.  and  Ion.  23  48  E. 

Algoa  bay,  is  open  to  all  winds  from  N.  E.  to  S.  E.  It  has  % 
good  bottom,  and  five  fathoms  depth,  at  the  distance  ©f  a  mile. 
The  landing  place  is  in  lat.  33  56  S.  and  Ion.  26  53  E.  500  miles 
from  the  cape.  The  mouth  is  20  miles  broad.  Fresh  water  is 
abundant. 

Mountains.  The  north  front  of  the  Table  Mountain  directly- 
facing  the  town,  has  a  horizontal  ridge  two  miles  in  length.  The 
height  of  the  ridge  is  3582  feet.  Devil's  Hill  is  merely  a  wing  of 
the  Table  Mountain,  on  the  E.  3315  feet  high  ;  Lion's  Head  is 
another  on  the  W.  2160  feet  high.  The  height  of  the  Niewwveldiy 
according  to  Barrow  is  at  least  10,000  feet.  Its  summits  are  usual- 
ly covered  with  snow  six  months  in  the  year. 


WESTERN  COAST  AND  INTERIOR  OF 
AFRICA. 

SCARCELY  any  thing  is  known  of  the  coast  between  the  mouth 
of  the  Kousnie,  in  Lat.  16  55  S.  the  northern  limit  of  the  colony  of 
the  Cape  ;  and  Cape  Negro  in  lat.  16  15.  Very  few  of  the  Na- 
tnaquas  are  found  N.  of  the  Koussie.  Barrow  says,  that  the  whole 
coast  between  the  Koussie  and  the  Orange,  in  lat.  28  S.  is  a  mere 
desert,  perhaps  a  continuation  of  the  Great  Karroo.  Orange  river 
rises  in  the  country  of  the  Bosjesmen,  in  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the 
Cape  colony,  in  about  lat.  31  S.  and  Ion.  27  E.  and  empties  in  lat. 
28  S.  and  Ion.  !6  E.  The  distance  of  these  two  points,  in  a  direct 
line,  is  about  650  miles.  Its  whole  length  is  at  least  1000.  Bar- 
row saw  it  70  or  ao  miles  from  its  source.  It  was  from  300  to 
500  yards  broad,  and  the  volume  of  water  was  immense.  Like 
the  Nile,  it  has  its  inundations  and  its  cataracts. 

The  whole  ctjast,  from  Cape  Negro  in  lat.  16   15  S.  to  the  head 
of  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  is  called  the  Coast  of  Congo. 

Bemgukla.  This  kingdom  reaches  from  Cape  Negro  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Coauza,  in  itii.  9  54  S.  about  150  leagues.  It  was 
formerly  powerful.  Old  Jic-ngucla  is  a  town  on  a  high  mountain, 
near  the  coast,  in  lat.  1 1  5  S.  carrying  on  a  considerable  trade  in 
provisions  and  ivory  ;  for  v.  hicli  it  receives  muskets  and  other  fire 
arms.  The  country  is  iTiountaiiious,  and  swai  ms  with  wild  beasts, 
and  is  unwholesome  nc^r  the  coast. 
82 


650  WESTERN  COAST 

Angola  reaches  only  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  Dando,  in  lat.  8*  ' 
S.     The  PortUG^uese  have  several  forts  on  the  coast. 

Congo  is  divided  from  Loan?j;o,  by  Congo  river,  in  lat.  6  30  S. 
It  reaches  very  far  into  the  iaierior,  and  has  Funsjono  on  the  N.  E. 
and  Matumba  on  the  S.-E.  Wiien  the  Portuguese  fii-st  discovered 
this  country,  in  1484,  it  was  covered  with  large  towns  and  villajjss, 
and  the  capital  contained  50,000  inhabitants.  The  army  of  the  king 
was  numerous  and  powerful.  He  is  despotic,  is  elected  by  the  no- 
bles out  of  ihe  seed  royal,  and  is  the  proprietor  of  all  the  lands  in 
his  dominions.  The  king  was  early  converted  by  the  Portuguese 
to  the  Catiiolic  faith,  and  a  profession  of  that  faith  is  said  now  to  be 
an  indispensable  requisite  for  the  succession  to  the  thcoae.  Num- 
bers of  the  Congoese  aiso  are  Catholics  ;  but  a  great  majority  are 
pagans,  wlio  worship  various  aniraais.  Banza,  or  St.  Salvador, 
tiicir  capital,  is  situated  40  leagues  up  the  Zair,  on  a  rocky  emi- 
nence, and  is  said  to  contain  a  number  of  churches,  and  about 
40,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  about  4000  are  Portuguese,  who  reside 
in  a  quarter  by  themselves.  The  inhabitants  receive  the  products 
of  Brazil,  and  the  manufactures  of  Europe,  in  return  for  slaves,  of 
»whom  about  16,000  are  annually  procured  for  the  Portuguese. 
The  soil  is  generally  excellent,  and  the  surface  uneven.  Millet, 
maize,  the  sugar-cane,  and  various  excellent  fruits  are  cultivated. 
The  Zair  is  a  very  long  and  large  river,  probably  not  inferior  in  size 
to  Orange  river.     Copper  and  iron  are  procured  from  the  mines. 

LoANGo.  We  know  not  how  far  this  country  reaches  to  the  N, 
Biafra  is  between  it  and  Benin.  The  king  is  powerful.  The  coun- 
try is  populous.  The  inhabitants  are  pagans,  but  use  circumcision. 
Polygamy  is  common.  They  are  licentious  to  an  extreme.  Loan- 
go,  the  capital,  is  in  lat.  4  40  S.  on  a  considerable  river,  about  2 
leagues  from  the  sea.  The  town  is  large  and  populous.  The  ex- 
ports arc  principally  slaves  and  copper.  The  climate  is  remarka- 
bly hot.     The  soil  fertile,  but  the  agriculture  miserable. 

Biafra  is  said  to  be  a  powerful  and  populous  kingdom,  bounded 
N.  W.  on  Benin.  It  has  a  capital  of  the  sam.e  name.  The  natives 
are  idolaters, 

Guinea.  The  whole  coast,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Del  Rey,  in 
Ion.  8  30  E.  to  that  of  the  Mesurada,  in  1 1°  W.  about  500  leagues, 
is  called  the  Coast  of  Guinea  ;  and  the  country  of  Guinea,  is  con- 
sidered as  extending  northward  to  the  mountains  of  the  Moon.  On 
the  coast  it  is  divided  into  Benin,  on  the  E.  reaching  to  the  river 
Volta,  220  leagues  ;  Guinea  Proper,  reaching  thence  to  cape  Pal- 
mas  180;  aiid  iNIalaqueta,  or  the  Grain  Coast,  between  cape  Pal- 
iiias  and  the  Mesurada. 

Brkjx.  The  country  so  named,  is  divided  into  Benin  Proper,, 
in  the  E.  Whidah  in  the  middle,  and  Ardra  in  the  W.  Each  of 
these  has  its  own  monarch.  The  king  of  Benin  proper  has  a  large 
revenue,  and  can  bring  100,000  men  into  tiie  field.  The  iniiabit- 
anis  acknowledge  a  Supreme  Being  ;  but  worship  an  evil  spirit, 
wlio  is  considered  as  the  author  of  all  their  calamities.  Polygamy 
IS  common.  Benin,  the  capital,  is  in  lat.  6  38  N.  and  Ion.  4  47  E. 
on  the  river  Benin,  or  Formosa,  69  miles  from  Agatten,  at  its 


AND  INTERIOR  OF  AFRICA.  €5^ 

rnnouth.  It  is  said  to  be  4  miles  in  circumference,  and  to  contain,  SO 
long,  broad,  and  straight  streets,  of  low  Louses.  The  streets  are 
adorned  with  a  variety  of  shops,  filled  with  European  wares.  The 
palace  is  very  extensive.  None  but  tiatives  are  permitted  to  live 
here.  The  entrance  to  the  city  is  through  a  wooden  gaie,  wi,eie  a 
guard  is  stationed  to  collect  the  customs  on  merchantlize.  ,jTl;is 
country  has  been  one  of  the  principal  marts  for  slaves.         ,,j 

Whidah  is  a  much  smaller  kingdom  than  the  preceding;  but 
is  remarkably  fertile  and  populous.  The  inhabitants  know  many  of 
the  arts  of  civilized  life.  They  are  enterprising' and  industrious. 
The  commerce  of  the  country  is  extensive,  and  the  manufactures 
are  important.     Slaves  arc  the  chief  exports. 

Ardra  lies  between  Whidah  and  the  Volta,  and  extends  far  in- 
to the  interior.  Its  government  is  despotic,  and  the  crown  heredi- 
tary. The  soil  is  fenile.  The  m.anners  of  the  people  resemble 
those  of  Whidah.    The  country  is  populous, 

Guinea  Proper.  This  country  is  divided  into  theGold  Coast, 
on  the  E.  and  the  Ivory  Coast,  on  the  W.  Both  are  divided  into 
numerous  petty  principalities,  independent  of  each  other,  and  en- 
gaged in  almost  constant  wars.  Tlds  renders  them  intrepid  and 
ferocious.  The  prisoners  are  always  sold  as  slaves.  The  climate 
is  healthy  to  the  natives,  but  prejudicial  to  Europeans.  Slaves, 
ivory,  and  gold  are  exported  to  a  great  extent.  All  the  slaves  from 
Ihis  coast  are,  in  the  West-Indies,  called  Koromantyns.  They  are 
distinguished  from  all  the  other  negroes  by  firmness,  both  of  body 
and  mind,  by  activity,  courage,  and  an  elevation  of  soul,  which 
prompts  them  to  enterprises  of  difficulty  and  danger,  and  enables 
them  to  meet  tortures  and  death  with  fortitude  or  indifference. 
Most  of  the  insurrections  in  the  islands  are  owing  to  them.  Ed- 
wards* gives  an  account  of  a  formidable  insurrection  in  Jamaica, 
in  1760,  occasioned  by  100  newly  imported  Koromantyns,  all  on 
one  plantation. 

In  their  own  country  when  a  great  man  dies,  several  of  his  wives, 
and  great  numbers  of  his  slaves,  are  sacrificed  at  his  funeral. 
They  believe  in  a  God  of  the  Heavens,  the  Crcatoi-  of  ail  things, 
called  Accomfiong^  to  whom  they  offer  only  praise  and  thanksgiv- 
ing. Aiisarci  is  the  god  of  the  earth  ;  to  him  they  offer  the  lirst 
fruits,  and  pour  out  libations.  I/iboa  is  the  god  of  the  sea  :  if  the 
arrival  of  ships  trading  on  the  coast  is  delayed,  they  sacrifice  a  hog 
lo  deprecate  his  wrath.  Obbonnj  is  the  author  of  ail  evil ;  to  him 
they  sacrifice  prisoners,  or  slaves.  Besides  these  every  family  has 
a  tutelar  saint,  who  is  some  ancestor  :  on  the  anniversary  of  whose 
burial  all  his  descendants  assem.ble  round  bis  grave,  and  sacrifice 
a  cock  or  a  goat. 

Grain  Coast,  or  MA^AGUETA.  This  country,  is  100  leagues  in 
extent,  from  cape  Palmas  to  the  Mesurada.  It  is  said  to  be  subject 
to  a  single  monarch,  whose  power  is  despotic,  and  who  assumes 
great  pomp  and  magnificence.  The  people  are  pagans,  worship- 
ping the  moon,  and  believing  in  sorcery.    Great  numbers  of  ihen^ 

♦  n.  268—272. 


054  WESTERN  COAST 

are  nnilattoes.     But  few  slaves  are  procured  l.ere.     The  Englis)s 
cng!;pss  the  whole  commerce.     Guinea  pepper  is  the  chief  expoit. 


The  remainder  of  the  coast,  between  the  Mcsurada  and  cape 
Bojador,  the  S.  W.  extremity  of  Morocco,  may  be  considered  un- 
der two  grand  divisions,  Soudax  on  the  S.  and  Sahara  on  the  N. 
Soudan,  as  we  are  informed  by  Jackson,  is  the  name  given  by  the 
Moors  to  the  immense  tract  lying  between  the  Jibbel  Kumra,  or 
mountains  of  the  Mocn;  on  the  S.  and  the  Desert  on  the  N. 

Soudan.  Park  explored  the  western  part  of  this  extensive 
tract,  descending  the  Niger,  as  far  as  Sillas,  a  village  of  Bambarra, 
in  about  lat.  15°  N.  and  Ion.  I  30  W.  He  found  it  throughout  fer- 
tile, well  watered,  thickly  peopled,  and  divided  into  numerous  king- 
doms. Jackson,  from  information  obtained  of  the  Moorish  traders 
to  Tombuctoo,  tells  us  that  the  Niger  runs  eastward  to  the  Nile, 
and  that  the  country  through  which  it  flows,  continues  of  the  same 
description.     Horneman  communicates  the  same  information. 

The  Senegal,  the  Gambia,  the  Grande,  and  the  Mesurada,  are 
the  great  rivers  of  the  western  coast ;  and  the  Niger  of  the  interi- 
or. The  Senegal  is  formed  by  two  branches,  and  empties  into  the 
ocean  about  lat.  16°  N.    Its  whole  length  must  exceed  1000  miles. 

The  Gambia  runs  N.  W.  and  W.  about  700  miles,  emptying  m 
about  lat.  13  30  N.  Cape  Verd  is  about  equidistant  between  the 
two  rivers. 

Of  the  inhabitants  of  this  tract  we  may  remark  generally,  that 
they  are  of  two  great  classes,  A'cgroes  and  Moors.  The  negroe* 
are  the  most  numerous.  Their  kingdoms  occupy  the  whole  of 
the  coast,  and  the  southern  division  of  the  interior.  They  are  all 
of  a  much  lighter  color  than  the  negroes  of  Guinea.  Park  suppos- 
es that  at  least  two  thirds  of  the  population  of  the  negro  di-  ision 
are  slaves.  Great  numbers  of  the  negroes  are  Mahometans  ;  the 
rest  are  pagans.  The  Moorish  kingdoms  occupy  the  northern  di- 
rision,  but  great  numbers  of  the  Moors  are  scattered  over  the  ne- 
gro kingdoms.     The  Moors  are  all  zealous  Mahometans. 

Southern  Foulahs.  These  occupy  a  great  extent  of  country 
between  the  Mcsurada,  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  mountains  of  the 
Moon.  Their  capital  is  Teembo.  It  is  said  they  can  bring  16,00& 
cavalry  into  the  field.     Many  of  them  are  Mahometans. 

Sierra  Leone,  where  the  English  have  a  colony,  and  an  im- 
portant mission,  under  the  direction  of  the  African  institution,  is 
near  the  middle  of  the  country  of  the  Southern  Foulahs. 

The  Sierra  Leone  river,  which  gives  name  to  this  country, 
empties  in  Ion.  12  30  \V.  lat.  8  15  N.  by  a  mouth  9  miles  wide. 
In  1791  an  act  of  parliament  was  obtained,  incorporating  a  compa- 
ny, called  the  Sierra  Leone  Company,  for  the  purpose  of  cultivat- 
ing West-India  and  other  tropical  productions,  on  the  banks  of 
this  river.  The  first  settlers  amounted  to  460.  The  second,  cm.- 
barkation  in  1792,  consisted  of  1200  free  blacks  from  Nova-Scotia. 
Missionaries  are  settled,  wfeo  labor  to  spread  the  gospel  among  the 


AND  INTERIOR  OF  AFRICA.  653 

neighljoring  tribes.  Schools  are  establishet].  1  he  country  is 
healthy,  and  the  colony  thriving.         , 

Sherero  is  another  English  color.y,  100  rules  S.  E.  oi' Sierra 
Leone. 

Fkloops.  The  Feloops  are  a  v  ild,  fierce,  but  grateful  race,  near 
the  coast  S.  of  the  Gambia.     They  speak  a  peculiar  language. 

Governor  Ludlam  gives  the  following  account  of  the  baneful  ef- 
fects of  the  slave  trade,  witnessed  by  himself,  in  tr.e  coiiniry  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Sherbro,  100  miles  S.  of  Sierra  Leone  :  "Thus 
has  this  fertile  country  been  rendered  a  desert,  ai.d  its  trade,  once 
cxlensire,  been  almost  annihilated.  Some  tbcusiinds  of  square 
miles  are  now  without  an  inhabitant.  In  this  extent  is  included  the 
richest  land  on  the  Windward  coast.  No  place  etjuallcd  Boom  in 
fertil'ty.  Finer  sugar-cane  is  not  found  in  the  West-Indies,  tlian 
grows  wild  in  Bagroo.  And  as  for  the  interior  country  behind  the 
Sherbro,  it  must  also  be  rich  from  the  quantity  of  rice,  arid  cotton 
cloth  brought  thence."* 

Mandingoes.  These  are  now  far  the  most  numerous  nation  in 
the  W.  of  Soudan.  They  commence  on  the  coast  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Gambia,  bordering  S.  on  tl-o  Feloops,  Ban  a,  Yani,  and  Woolli, 
three  kingdoms  on  both  sides  of  the  Gambia  from  its  mouth  cast- 
ward  The  Miiudingoes  also  constitute  the  chief  population  of 
western  Bambarra. 

The  men  are  well  shaped,  abrve  the  middle  size,  strong  and  ca-? 
pable  of  enduring  labor.  The  women  are  good  natured,  sprightly, 
and  agreeable.  Poiygamy  is  universal,  and  each  wife  has  hei-  own 
hut.  All  the  huts  of  one  family  are  enclosed  by  a  hedge  fence. 
Agriculture  and  pasturage  arc  the  favorite  employments  of  the 
Mandingoes.  These  oci  upy  them  through  the  rainy  season.  In 
the  dry  season  they  catch  fish  in  wicker  baskets,  or  sniall  cotton 
nets,  ?nd  hunt  birds  and  beasts.  The  women,  at  the  same  time, 
manufacture  cotton  cloth,  coarse,  but  durable.  One  woman  will 
make  8  or  9  garments  a  year.  Tliey  die  it  a  rich  and  permanent 
blue  color.  Tanners  and  blacksmiths  are  the  oi.iy  mechanics  by 
profession. 

Park  describes  the  Mandingoes  as  gentle,  cheerful  inquisitive, 
credulous,  simple  and  lond  of  flattery.  'I'hey  arc  prone  to  steal 
from  strangers  ;  but  are  at  the  same  time  hospitable  and  kind. 
A  lively  natural  afTcciion  subsists  between  the  mothers  and  their 
children.  The  practice  of  truth  is  strongly  inculcated  in  child- 
hood. Circumcision  is  universal,  and  takes  place  at  the  ape  of 
puberty.  The  value  of  two  slaves  is  the  common  pi  ice  of  a  wife. 
The  Pagan  negroes  always  oficr  a  short  prayer  to  God,  at  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  new  moon,  and  this  is  their  only  worship.  The 
*beliefof  one  God,  and  of  a  future  state  of  rcwai-ds  and  punish- 
ments, is  universal.  They  rarely  survive  55  or  60,  arid  are  grey 
and  wrinkled  at  40. 

Barka  is  the  kingdom  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gambia  on  both  sides, 
reaching  up  about  180  miles.  The  necessaries  of  life  are  abund- 
ant.    Jillifrey,  is  a  town  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  river. 

•  Report  2d  ©f  the  Committee  of  the  African  Institution,  p.  1 S. 


f6S4  WESTERN  COAST 

Yani  lies  E.  of  Barrn,  reaching  about  100  miles  up,  on  bofk 
sides  of  ihe  Gambia,  Pisaoia  is  a  well  known  English  fort  in  this 
iingdom,  on  the  N.  bank. 

WooLi,  E.  of  Yani,  reaching  about  as  far  along  the  Gambia, 
has  Fuota  Torra  N.  and  Bondou  N.  E.  Medina,  the  capital,  con- 
tains about  1000  houses. 

Kaarta  is  a  kingdom  of  considerable  extent ;  having  Bambarra 
•on  the  E. 

FooTA  Jallo.  This  is  an  extensive  kingdom  of  the  southern 
Foulahs,  lying  W.  of  JaDonkadoo,  reaches  S.  to  the  Mountains  of 
the  Moon,  and  is  divided  into  several  petty  kingdoms.  Their 
ianp'uage  has  sorne  afiinity  to  the  Mandingo. 

Kong  is  probably  the  most  extensive  and  powerful  kingdom  of 
■western  Soudan.  It  has  Bambarra  on  t!ie  N. ;  and  reaches  east- 
ward a  great  distance  Along  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon. 

Bambarra,  in  the  S.  W.  commences  on  the  Niger,  at  Bamma- 
koo,  and  reaches  down  that  river,  on  both  banks  about  400  miles. 
It  is  from  200  to  250  miles  wide. 

Sego,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom,  is  on  Park's  map,  in  lat  14 
15  N.  and  in  Ion.  2  30  W.  ;  on  both  sides  of  the  Niger.  ]t  con- 
sists, properly  speaking,  of  4  towns  :  all  surrounded  with  high 
mud  Avails  ;  the  streets  are  sufficiently  broad  ;  the  houses  are 
-built  of  clay,  of  a  square  form,  with  flat  roofs  ;  some  of  them  have 
two  stories,  and  many  are  whitewashed.  Moorish  mosques  are 
seen  in  every  quarter.  The  town  contains  about  30,000  inhabit- 
ants.    The  surrounding  country  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  • 

Jenne  belongs  to  the  king  of  Bambarra.  It  stands  on  an  island 
in  the  Niger,  half  way  from  Manzon  to  lake  Debbe.  It  is  larger 
than  Sego. 

Jinbala  occupies  the  large  island  in  the  Niger,  below  lake 
■Debbe.  On  Park's  map,  it  is  100  miles  long,  and  50  broad.  Tom- 
buctoo  lies  N.  and  N.  E. ;  Gotto  S.  and  S.  E.  The  soil  is  remarkably 
.fertile  ;  and  the  whole  country  so  full  of  creeks  and  swamps,  that 
the  Moors  have  been  baffled  in  every  attempt  to  subdue  it.  The 
inhabitants  are  negroes  and  live  in  considerable  affluence. 

GoTTo.  This  is  a  powerful  negro  kingdom,  bo.unding  N.  on 
Jinbala  and  Tombuctoo,  from  both  of  which,  it  is  separated  by  the 
Niger.     Bloossedoo  is  the  capital. 

Baedoo,  lies  S.  VV.  of  Gotto. 

Mamana,  lies  S.  W.  of  Bacdoo,  and  bounds  on  Bambarra.  The 
inhabitants  are  cruel  and  ferocious,  and  are  said  to  be  cannibals. 

Foulahs.  This  is,  next  to  the  Mandingoes,  the  most  extensive 
negro  race  in  the  W.  of  Soudan.  Their  complexion  is  tawncy, 
and  they  have  small  pleasing  features,  and  soft  silky  hair.  The 
great  body  of  them  are  Mahometans,  and  the  Koran  is  both  thcii'* 
statue  book  and  Bible.  They  are  reserved  and  not  distinguished 
for  their  hospitality,  but  not  intolerant.  Schools  are  kept  by  the 
iSIahometan  priests  in  all  their  villages.  The  children  are  taught 
to  read  the  Koran,  and  discover  great  docility  and  submission. 
!Blost  of  the  Foulahs  speak  Arabic  ;  but  they  have  a  language  of 
,t;lieir  own,  abounding  in  liquids,  though  unpleasant  in  its  enuncia" 


AND  INTERIOR  OF  AFRICA.  655 

Uon.  Most  of  them  are  engaged  in  agriculture  and  pasturage. 
They  are  coRimcndably  industrious,  and  discover  great  skill  in  tlie 
mai'iagenient  of  their  cattle.     Tliey  possess  soibc  excellent  horses. 

BoNDOU  lies  W.  of  Bambouk,  and  haa  Wooli  on  i!ie  S.  Wo 
The  soi!  is  not  surpassed  in  fertility.  The  inhabitants  are  wealthy 
and  industrious.  They  sell  larjje  quantilics  of  salt  to  the  inhabit- 
ants of  the  interior,  and  tlie  great  body  of  the  slaves  from  the  E. 
patis  through  Bondou.  Fatteconda,  the  capital,  is  a  considerable 
town  about  15  miles  E.  of  the  Falenic.  The  king's  troops  arc  well 
supplied  Avith  fire  arms  and  ammunition. 

Jaloffs.  The  Jaloffs  are  au  active,  powciful,  and  warlike 
race,  inliabiting  an  extensive  tract  of  country,  between  the  Fou- 
lahs  of  tiie  Senegal  N.  Foota  Torra  E.  the  Iviandingo  slates  on  the 
the  Gambia  S.  and  the  coast  W.  They  arc  of  a  jet  black.  They 
are  divided  into  several  independent  kingdoms.  In  tneir  govern- 
ment, superstitions,  and  nianners,  they  resemble  the  Manclingoes  ; 
but  excel  them  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton  cloili,  spinning  the 
wool  to  a  fiacr  thread,  weaving  it  in  a  broader  loom,  and  dying  it 
of  a  better  color. 

Serawoolies.  These  occupy  only  one  independent  kingdom^ 
that  of  Kajaaga  ;  but  many  of  tiiem  are  dispersed  as  merchants^ 
brokers,  and  slave-drivers,  over  the  wlioie  country,  panicularly 
near  the  coast.  They  are  habitually  a  trading  people,  but  always 
look  upon  Kajaaga,  as  their  country.  They  trade  with  the  British 
factori(.'s  on  the  Gambia,  are  tolerably  fair  and  honest,  indefatiga- 
ble in  the  pursuit  of  wealth,  and  derive  considerable  profit  from 
the  sale  of  salt  and  cottons  in  distant  countries. 

Kajaaga  has  Bonduu  on  the  S.  W.  and  Bambouk  on  the  S.  E, 
The  king  is  absolute  and  powerful.  The  climate  is  peculiarly 
healthy,  and  the  soil  fertile.  Maana  is  the  capital.  Joag  is  a 
front^'ii'  town  of  2000  inhabitants,  on  the  Senegal. 

MooHS.  The  Moors  possess- a  number  of  kingdoms  between 
the  desert  on  the  N.  and  the  negro  kingdoms  on  the  S.  The  Sen- 
egal divides  them  from  the  negroes,  as  far  up  as  about  opposite 
to  Joag.  Thence  eastward,  they  bound  S.  on  Kasson,  Kaarta, 
Bambarra,  Ma?'na,  and  Jinbala. 

They  are  divided  into  numerous  tribes,  or  kingdoms.  There 
k  reason  to  believe,  says  Park,  that  their  dominion  suetches  from 
W.  to  E.  across  the  contuicnt,  in  a  narrow  belt,  from  the  inouih  of 
the  Senegal  to  Abyssinia. 

Their  coinplcxion  resembles  that  of  the  mulattoes  of  the  V/est 
Indies  ;  but  their  features  bespeak  low  cunning  and  cruelly,  and 
their  eyes  have  a  staring  wildness.  Their  houses  are  biiiii  of 
elay  and  stone.  Many  of  them  live  in  tents,  and  roam  irom  place 
to  place.  The  ciuef  wealth  of  these  consists  of  camels,  cattle^  and 
goats,  and  their  chief  business  is  pasturage.  They  aie  all  ex- 
tremely indolent,  but  rigid  taskuusters  to  their  slaves.  Thcii- 
country  being  nearer  the  Desert,  is  Hir  hotter  and  less  fertile  thau 
that  of  the  negroes. 

They  are  rigid  Mahometans,  bigoted,  and  superstitious,  and  ia- 
lolerant.     Ail  the  males  vcad  and  wiue.     Their  langua'^e  is  Ar»> 


656  WESTERN  COAST 

bic.  Tlicir  v/oniin  are  taught  nothing  except  voluptuousness 
and  submission.  Coipulency  in  their  fc  nales  is  the  first  charac- 
icrisiic  of  beauty.  They  aie  exiremely  unkind  to  their  slaves  and 
to  strangers.  Puik  describes  taeiii  as  universally  proud, ferocious, 
lulse,  and  ireacherous. 

To-.nhucloo,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  this  name,  is  situated 
on  a  plain,  130  n»iies  E.  of  Beroo,  and  12  miles  N.  of  the  Niger  ; 
in  about  Ion.  I  30  E.  and  90  miles  fiom  the  confines  of  the  desert. 
It  ii.  a  very  large  town  ;  the  Ivloors  lold  Jackson,  about  12  rniles 
in  circumicrence.  The  houses  arc  spacioui,  and  of  a  square  form  ; 
of  one  siory,  with  a  holtotv  open  square  in  the  centre.  The  gov- 
ernnient  oi'  tlic  town  is  in  the  hands  of  a  divan  of  12  Alemma,  mea 
learned  in  the  Koriin,  appointed  for  3  years.  Its  police  is  excel- 
lent. Kobra  is  its  port  on  the  Niger.  The  commerce  of  Tom- 
bucioo  is  very  imporiant.  The  articles  brought  by  the  Akkabaahs 
from  alarocco  to  the  capital,  are  sent  from  Kabra,  both  up  and 
down  t!ie  Niger.  A  cariivan  goes  also  to  Fezzan,  and  another  to 
Egypt.  The  soil  is  generally  fertile.  Rice,  millet,  and  maize, 
are  cxicnslvcly  cuiiivatcd  ;  wheat  and  barley  also  in  the  plains. 
CoiToe  and  indigo  grow  wild.  The  cotton  manufactures  are  su- 
l)eri(>r.     Great  quantities  of  lioney  are  annually  collected. 

HoussA  lies  E.  of  Tombuctoo,  on  both  sides  of  the  Niger.  An 
extensive  desert  on  the  S.  is  said  to  separate  it  from  Gotto.  Houssa, 
the  city,  lies  aiioui  60  miles  from  the  N.  bank  of  the  river,  and  is, 
Ticcording  to  Park,  11  days  journey,  or  330  miles  below  Kabra. 
It  is  said  to  be  even  larger  than  Tomlnictoo,  and  is  likewise  a 
great  coinrncrcial  emporium.  Horncman  was  Informed,  that  the 
kingdom  of  fioussa  reached  eastward  to  the  limits  of  Bournou, 
b'-yond  Ion.  15  E.  and  that  it  compreliended  several  large  pro- 
vinces, of  which  Kashna,  and  Gana,  or  Kano,  where  the  most  east- 
ern. Kashna,  the  capital  of  the  first  is  said  to  be  far  the  largest 
town  in  the  country,  and  in  the  interior  of  Africa. 

Bournou,  is  a  very  extensive  country,  E.  of  Houssa. 

TuARiCK.  Horneman  tells  us,  that,  that  part  of  the  Desert,  ly- 
ing N.  of  Houssa,  and  N.  W.  of  Bournou,  is  occupied  by  the  Tua- 
rick,  a  very  extensive  nation,  that  roams  over  tlie  whole  desert, 
even  to  Morocco.  They  arc  divided  in U)  many  different  tribes, 
who  all  speak  the  same  language.  Thr.y  discover  strong  natural 
powers  of  mind.  Tiieir  character  is  much  esteenied.  They  are 
chiefly  Mahometans,  but  the  Tagama  Tuarick,  on  the  borders  of 
Tombuctoo,  are  whites,  and  are  Pagans.  They  carry  on  a  com- 
merce between  Soudan,  E>::zzan,  anci  (iadamis,  near  Tripoli.  Most 
of  the  Tuarick  lead  a  wandering  life.  Some  live  in  the  small 
oases  in  the  Desert. 

TiBBoos,  are  an  extensive  ;iation,  living  E.  of  the  Tuarick  in 
ihc  Desert. 

Fezzan.  This  country  limits  the  Tuarick  on  the  N.  E.  Hornc- 
man says  that  it  is  of  an  oval  shape,  about  300  miles  from  N.  to 
S.  and  200  from  E.  to  W.  Rjnncl  lays  it  down  between  Ion.  14 
and  17  E.  and  about  l50™ilesS.  from  the  shore  of  ti;e  Greater 
Syriis.     The  religion  is  the  Mahoavjtan.     It  is  governed  by  a  sul- 


AND  INTERIOR  OF  AFRICA.  657 

tan,  a  descendant  from  the  family  of  the  Sherreefe.  The  tradition 
is,  that  the  ancestors  of  the  reignini;;  prince,  coming  from  western 
Africa,  invaded  and  conquered  Fezzan,  about  500  years  since.  The 
sultan  is  absolute  ;  but  holds  his  dominions  of  the  bashaw  of  Trip- 
oli, to  whom  he  pays  4000  dollars  as  a  yearly  tribute.  Horneman 
estimates  the  population  at  75,000.  The  revenue  arises  from 
taxes  on  gardens  and  cultivated  lands  ;  from  arbitrary  fines  and 
requisitions ;  from  duties  on  foreign  trade,  paid  by  the  several 
caravans  ;  and  from  predatory  excursions.  The  expenditure 
consists  chiefly  in  the  maintenance  of  the  sultan,  his  court,  and 
palace.  The  cadi  and  each  one  of  the  royal  family  has  a  district 
assigned  for  his  support. 

Mourzouk,  the  capital,  is  In  lat.  27  23  N.  and  in  Ion.  15  40  E. 
420  miles  in  a  direct  line  S.  S.  E.  of  Tripoli.     Zeula  lies  about  70 
miles  E.  by  N.  of  Mourzouk.     The  commerce  of  Fezzan  is  con- 
siderable.    From  October  to  February  Mourzouk  is  the  great  em- 
porium for  the  caravans  from  Cairo,  Tripoli,  Gadamis,  Bengasi,  a 
town  on  the  N.  coast,  Soudan  and  various  others.     The  inhabitants 
of  Augila  carry  on  the  trade  from  Cairo  ;  those  of  Sockna,  that  of 
Tripoli  ;    and  the  Kolluvian  Tuaric,   that  of  Soudan.       Slaves, 
ostrich  feathers,  ribette,  tiger  skins,  and  gold  come  from  Soudan  ; 
copper  from  Bornou  ;  siks,  melayes,  (striped  blue  and  v/hite  cali- 
coes.) woollens,   glass,  mock  coral,  beads,  and   East-India  goods 
from  Cairo  ;  tobacco,  snufP,  and  sundry  Turkish  wares  from  Ben- 
gasi ;  paper,  mock  coral,  fire  arms,  sabres,  knives,  and  red  worst- 
ed caps  are   brought  from  Tripoli,  and  Gadamis  ;    butter,  oil,  fat, 
and   corn  by  the  smaller  Tuaric  and  Arab   caravans  from  the  W,. 
and  senna,  ostrich  feathers,  and  camels,  by  those  from  the  S. 
The  climate  is  at  no  season  temperate  or  agreeable. 
Gadamis  is  an  oasis,  near  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Tripoli. 
Augila  is  a  small,  but  celebrated  territory,  nearly  midway  be- 
tween Egypt  and  Fezzan.     It  is  about  165  miles  from  the  coast,  in 
lat.  29  .10  N.  and  Ion.  23°  E. ;  and  is  450  miles,  in  a  direct  line  E. 
N.  E.  of  Mourzouk.     It  is  i.n  oasis,  flat,  well  watered,  fertile,  and 
surrounded  by  arid  deserts,  either  sandy  or  rocky.     Its  dates  are 
celebrated.     These  and  its  gardens  constitute  the  chief  culture. 
There  are  three  towns,  Augila,  Mojabra,  and  Meledila.     Augila, 
well  known  in  the  time  of  Herodotus,  covers  a  space  of  one  mile  in 
circumference.     It  is  badly  built.    The  streets  are  narrow  and  dir- 
ty. The  houses  are  of  one  story,  of  limestone,  with  an  open  hollow 
square  in  the  centre.     Augila  is  governed  i>y  a  vicegerent  for  th© 
bashaw  of  Tripoli. 

SiiwAH  lies  210  miles  a  little  S.  of  i^-  of  Augila.    It  is  150  miles 
from  the  Mediterranean,  and  260  'vV.  S.  W.  of  Cairo. 

Siwah  is  a  small  independent  state.  The  territory  is  of  consider- 
able extent ;  its  principal  and  most  fruitful  district  is  a  well  water- 
ed valley,  50  miles  in  ctVcuit,  hemmed  in  by  steep  and  barren 
rocks.  It  is  supposed^  with  great  probability,  to  have  been  the  an- 
cient Oasis  of  Am^on  ;  and  a  pile  of  ruins  on  the  W.  of  the  capi- 
tal are  said  to  be  the  remains  of  the  celebrated  temple  of  Jupiter 
Ammon.  Thoy  are  all  Majiometans.  Siwah,  the  capital,  is  nearly 
83 


65S  AFRICAN  ISLANDS. 

in  the  centre  of  the  valley.  It  is  built  upon  a  round  mass  of  rock. 
The  houses  might  be  taken  for  caves.  The  streets  are  so  naviowj 
that  the  houses  almost  touch  eacli  other.  Many  stand  on  the  de^ 
clivity  of  the  rock.  It  resembles  a  bee  hive  in  its  shape,  and  in  the 
buzz  of  its  streets.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  are  erected  stables  for 
the  camels,  horses,  and  asses,  which  cannot  ascend  to  the  tovva 
above.  The  Siwahans  are  great  thieves.  Many  of  then^  are  rich. 
Each  individual  has  one  or  more  i^ardens,  and  these  it  is  his  whole 
business  to  water  and  cultivate.  The  soil  is  a  sandy  loam,  yielding 
corn,  oil,  and  veii;etables,  but  the  chief  produce  is  daies.  These 
are  all  kept  in  a  public  storehouse.  N.  W.  of  the  capital  there  i& 
a  stratum  of  salt,  extending  a  full  mile,  and  near  it  salt  is  found  ott 
%he  surface,  lying  in  clods,  or  small  lumpSi 


AFRICAN  ISLANDS. 

MADAGASCAR. 

THIS  noble  island,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  e::cept  New^- 
Holland  and  Borneo,  lies  between  lat.  11  22  and  25  42  S.  Ion.  4t 
14  to  48  14  E.  Its  length  is  about  980  miles,  ^nd  its  mean  breadth 
is  about  250.  It  lies  in  the  Indian  ocean  ;  and  the  channel  of  Mo- 
zambique, 90  leagues  across,  bounds  it  on  the  W.  and  separates  it 
from  the  continent  of  Africa.     It  is  divided  into  23-  provinces. 

Qn  the  18th  of  February,  IS  11,  this  island  surrendered  to  the 
British. 

Its  population  is  reckoned,  by  Rochon,  at  4,000,000  souls^  The 
language  of  all  these  islanders  is  nearly  the  same. 

The  inhabitants  believe  in  a  Supreme  Being,  whom  they  call 
Zanhare,  that  is,  Creator  of  all  things.  They  have  no  temples,  no 
idols,  no  priests  ;  but  make  sacrifices  of  sheep  and  oxen.  They 
believe  the  soul  immortal,  but  suppose  the  wicked  and  good  re- 
warded in  this  life.  Thty  are  a  friendly,  intelligent,  excellent  peo» 
pie,  posse^ssing  a  quick  sense  of  honor  and  gratitude,  far  less  mind- 
ful  of  injuries  done  themselves,  than  of  those  offered  their  family. 
They  are  portly  in  their  persons,  and  rise  above  the  middle  stature. 
"Writing  is  not  unknown.  Tney  have  some  historical^books  in 
their  own  languages  ;  but  their  men  of  learning,  use  only  the  Ara- 
bic character.  That  lanj^uage  has  made  some  progress  in  the  N. 
of  the  island.  Their  hospltaii^y  is  worthy  of  notice  and  imitation. 
The  traveilei^,  though  a  stranger,  enters  the  cottage,  sits  down  with 
the  family,  and  partakes  of  their  repast.     This  custom  is  general. 

The  oaths,  v/hich  these  islanders  s^e  not  knovifi  to  violate,  are 
taken  in  a  solemn,  impressive  manner. 

They  have  physicians  to  visit  them  when  sick.  These  amiable 
people  were  formerly  torn  from  their  country?  their  families,  their 
parents,  their  children,  their  lovers,  and  sold  in  thousands,  in  the 
Fiench  colonies,  and  more  cruelly  treated  than  bea:<t3  of  burden. 

These  people  have  manufactures  of  iron  and  steef.     They  are 


AFRICAN  ISLANDS.  65? 

ingenious  goldsmiths,  potters,  joiners,  carpenters,  rope-makers  and 
weavers.  Their  linens  are  woven  by  women  ;  they  are  very  fine, 
and  beautifully  colored. 

The  climate  of  Madagascar  is  healthy  ;  the  heat  is  not  excessive, 
being  in  some  parts  tempered  by  land  breezes,  from  sun-setting, 
till  10  or  11  o'clock  in  the  morning.  They  live  in  towns  and  vil- 
lages. The  towns  are  surrounded  by  a  ditch  and  pallisadoes, 
guarded  by  10  and  20  soldiers.  The  houses  of  private  people  con- 
sist of  a  convenient  cottage,  surrounded  by  smaller  ones  for  their 
wives  and  slaves.  They  are  of  wood  covered  with  leaves  or  straw. 
The  houses  of  the  wealthy  are  spacious  and  divided  into  severid 
apartments.     The  princes  have  buildings  of  taste  and  beauty. 

This  island  is  watered  by  a  great  number  of  considerable  rivers, 
which  form  at  their  mouths  many  bays  and  gulfs,  in  which  are 
found  good  roads  and  harbors.  Foulepointe  is  the  port  most  fre^ 
quented  on  the  N.  coast. 

The  country  produces  oxen,  sheep,  goats,  and  cotton  in  abun- 
dance. Ebony,  gum  guttae,  cucumbers,  peas,  beans,  barley,  rice, 
and  citrons,  are  plenty.  Cardaman  plants,  banana,  and  orange 
trees  flourish.  Rock  crystals,  copper,  silver,  gold,  iron,  and  pre- 
cious stones  are  found  here.  A  great  variety  of  ornamental  plants, 
of  fruit  trees,  and  valuable  timber,  grow  on  this  island. 


SMALLER  AFRICAN  ISLANDS. 


PoRTO  Santo  is  a  small  island,  about  20  miles  in  compass,  in 
lat.  32  55  N.  and  !25  leagues  VV.  of  cape  Blanco.  It  has  one  good 
harbor,  safe  from  all  winds  but  the  S.  W.  Here  the  India  ships 
usually  stop  to  refit,  both  going  and  returning.  The  island  is  in- 
habited by  Portuguese,  and  is  very  rich. 

Madeira  is  a  triangle  of  150  miles  in  circuit,  lying  in  lat.  32  30 
N.  and  Ion.  16  50  W-  120  leagues  W.  of  cape  Cantin.  It  is  divid- 
ed into  two  provinces.  The  population  is  said  to  amount  to  70,000. 
Funchal,  the  capital,  ift  in  a  valley,  on  the  S.  coast.  The  town  con- 
tains 6  convents,  as  many  churches,  and  about  15,000  inhabitants, 
Portuguese,  French,  English,  Irish,  mulattoes,  and  blacks.  The 
climate  is  agreeable,  and  the  soil  very  fertile.  The  chief  exports 
are  Madeira  wine,  20,000  hogsheads,  and  sweet  meats.  Every  spe- 
cies of  tropical  fruit  grows  to  perfection. 

Canaries.  These  are  a  group  of  13  islands  lying  off  cape  Non, 
or  Nun,  between  lat.  27  15  and  29  50  N.  and  between  Ion.  13"  and 
17  30  W.  Six  are  small  and  uninhabited.  The  religion  is  the 
Catholic.  The  bishop  has  a  revenue  of  ^10,000,  and  is  suffragan 
to  the  archbishop  of  Seville.  A  tribunal  of  the  inquisition  is  es- 
tablished at  Palma,  the  capital.  The  government  is  vested  in  a 
governor  and  royal  audience.  The  audience  sit  at  Palma,  the 
capital  of  Grand  Canary.  The  population  of  the  whole  group  is 
stated  at  196,500,  distributed  as  follows  ; 
i 


660  AFRICAN  ISLANDS. 

Teneriffe  100,000  Lancerota  8,000 

Grand  Canary       40,000  Comera  7,000 

Palma  30,000  Ferro  1,500 

Forteventura         10,000 

These  islands  yield  a  revenue  to  the  crown  of  about  ^60,000 
sterling".  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  Spaniards.  Most  of  them 
are  poor,  and  are  tenants.  Bread  is  eaten  only  by  the  rich.  The 
poorer  sort  subsist  on  goffio^  a  parched  grain,  ground  by  a  little 
hand-mill.  The  commerce  with  England,  Spain,  and  Spanish 
America,  is  important.  The  exports  to  Spanish  South-America, 
in  1788,  amounted  to  £88,255  sterling,  and  the  imports  tOjC^li586. 
Wine  is  chiefly  exported  from  the  islands  of  Teneriffe  and  Palma. 
Tropical  fruits  are  raised  in  great  abundance. 

The  climate  is  temperate  and  mild.  The  soil  is  generally  fer- 
tile. The  articles  of  culture  are  the  vine,  sugar-cane,  cotton, 
wheat,  barley,  and  rice.  All  the  islands  are  well  supplied  with  cat- 
tle. 

Texeriffe  is  70  miles  west  of  Grand  Canary.  Its  length  is  70 
miles.  S.inta  Cruz,  the  capital,  on  the  S.  E.  has  a  good  harbor,  and 
is  a  handsome,  populous  town.  The  governor  resides  here,  I»J^o 
soil  is  more  fertile  than  that  of  this  island.  About  40,000  pipes  of 
vine  are  made  annually.  The  climate  is  remarkably  healthy.  The 
celebrated  Peake  of  Tenerifie  is  a  well  known  land- mark,  visible 
more  than  120  miles. 

Ferro,  or  Hierro,  is  the  most  western  of  the  Canaries,  and  the 
most  western  land  known  to  the  ancients,  constituted,  for  several 
centuries,  the  only  first  meridian  of  geographers.  The  longitude 
of  its  west  coast  is  17  46  W- 

Cape  Verd  Islands.  These  are  a  cluster  of  islands,  130 
leagues  W.  of  cape  Verd,  between  lat  16°  and  18°  N.  The  prin- 
cipal ones  are  St.  Anthony,  St.  Vincent,  St.  Nicholas,  Bonavista, 
and  St.  Jago.  They  have  long  belonged  to  the  Portuguese.  The 
inhabitants  of  all  are  said  to  amount  to  100,000.  The  manufactures 
of  leather  and  salt  form  the  principal  riches.  The  soil  is  indiffer- 
ent. 

St.  Helena.  This  is  a  beautiful  island,  20  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, belonging  to  the  English  East-India  Company.  Eveiy  valley 
is  watered  by  a  rivulet,  and  the  island  can  support  3000  head  of 
its  small  cattle.  The  number  of  inhabitants  decs  not  exceed  2000, 
including  near  500  soldiers  and  600  slaves,  who  are  supplied  with 
all  sorts  of  manufactures  by  the  company's  ships,  in  return  for  re- 
freshments. It  lies  between  Africa  and  South- America,  about  1200 
miles  west  of  the  former,  and  1 800  east  of  the  latter,  Ion.  5  49  W. 
lat.  15  55  S. 

Bourbon  is  60  miles  long,  and  40  broad,  370  miles  E.  frona 
IViadagascar.  The  island  is  difficult  of  access.  St.  Dennis  is  the 
principal  port.  It  has  lately  been  taken  by  the  English.  The  island 
has  now,  according  to  St.  Pierre,  60,000  blacks,  and  50C0  other  in- 
habitants :  Ion.  55   30  E   lat.  20  52  S. 

Mauritius.  This  island,  )  50  miles  in  circumference,  lies  E. 
I^.  %.  of  Bourbon,  and  400  miles  E.  of  Madagascar.    The  French 


INTERESTING  TABLES.  661 

hefd  it  till  1810,  when  it  was  taken  by  the  English.  The  climate 
is  healthy  ;  but  the  soil  not  very  fertile.  The  number  of  inhabit- 
ants on  the  island,  exclusive  of  the  military,  is  8000  whites,  and 
12,000  blacks.     Lon.  57  28  E.  lat.  20  9  S.* 

CoMORA  IsLANDis  are  in  the  Indian  ocean,  between  the  coast  of 
Zans^uebar  and  the  N.  part  of  the  island  of  Madagascar.  They  ara 
4  in  number,  viz.  Johanna,  Mayotta,  Mohilla,  and  Comora,  which 
last  is  6  leagues  long  and  3  wide,  and  gives  its  name  to  the  group. 
It  has  no  safe  harbors.  The  Arabs  settled  on  these  islands  are  cloth- 
ed, and  in  some  degree  civilized  ;  but  the  aborigines,  about  7000  in 
number,  who  inhabit  the  hills,  and  wiio  are  often  at  war  with  the 
Arabs,  go  naked,  are  of  a  dark  complexion,  and  stupid.  In  the  in- 
terior of  the  island  is  a  lake,  held  sacred  by  the  natives,  in  whicU 
are  ducks,  which  are  also  venerated.  The  East-India  ships  often 
touch  here  for  refreshment.  The  Arabs,  some  of  them,  speak, 
broken,  but  intelligible  English — preserve  the  manners  of  Arabia, 
and  are  not  so  dark  as  the  natives.  These  isles  lie  between  1 1** 
and  13°  S.  lat.  and  44°  and  47°  E.  Ion  t 

SocoTRA  is  a  large  island,  25  leagues  from  cape  Guardefan,  and 
CO  from  Arabia.  It  is  75  miles  in  length,  from  E.  to  W.  and  50 
broad.  It  has  a  fine  bold  shore,  and  many  excellent  harbors.  It  is 
fertile  and  populous  ;  and  is  governed  by  a  prince,  who  is  tributary 
to  the  Sheikh  of  Keschin,  a  town  of  Hadramaut  in  Arabia.  The 
inhabitants  are  of  Arabian  descent,  and  are  Mahometans.  The 
island  is  very  productive. 


INTERESTING  TABLES, 

CONCERNING    THE    POPULATION    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

Population.  THE  inhabitants  of  the  union  consist  of  three 
classes:  1.  Europeans  and  their  descendants;  2.  Africans  and 
theii"  descendants  ;  3.  Aborigines.  The  last  are  not  included  in 
any  of  the  following  estimates  and  enumerations. 

The  amount  of  provincial  population  in  1701  and  1749  was  esti- 
mated at  the  time  as  follows  : 

Estimate  of  provincial  population  in  1701  and  1749. 

Provinces.        1701  1749 

N.Hampshire    10,000  30,000 

Massachusetts  70,000  220,000 

Rhode  Island     10,000  35,000 

Connecticut       30,000  100,000 

New-York          30,000  100,000 

New- Jersey        15,000  60,000 

Pennsylvania:^    20,000  250,000 


Provinces.          1701 
Maryland           25,000 
Virginia             40,000 
North-Carolina   5,000 
S.  Carolina? 
Georgia       \       ^'^00 

1749 
S5,00O 
85,000 
45,000 
30,000 

6,000 

Southern   ^ 
Provinces  ^ 

77,000 

251,000 

Total        262,000   1,046,000 


Northern    J 

Provinces  ^        '  ' 

*St  Pierre.  f  Capt.  Ham,  Walker,  Grose. 

I  Pennsylvania  included  Delaware  till  the  revoluuoa. 


66- 


INTERESTING  TABLES. 


The  first  actual  enumeration  took  place  in  1790.     It  gave  the 
following  results. 


CENSUS  OF  1790. 


States  and  Territories. 

Whites. 

1          Blacks. 

Males. 

Females. 

Free. 

Slaves. 

Under  16. 

16  and  over.  Total. 

Maine 

24,478 

24,384 

49,132 

46,870 

5SS 

Massachusetts 

87,289 

95,453 

182,742 
231,874 

190,582 

5,463 
6,001 

Total  Massachusetts  112,037 

119,837 

237,452 

J>Jevv-Hampshire 

34,851 

36,086 

70,937 

70,160 

630 

I5« 

Vermont 

22328 

22,435 

44,763 

40,505 

255 

16 

Rhode  Island 

15,799 

16,019 

31,818 

32,652 

3,407 

948 

Connecticut 

54,403 

60,523 

114,926 

117,448 

2,808 

2,764 

Kew-York 

78,122 

83,700 

161,822 

152,320 

4,654 

21,324 

New-Jersey 

41,416 

45,251 

86,667 

83,287 

2,762 

11,423 

Pennsylvania 

106,948 

110,788 

217,736 

206,363 

6,537 

3,737 

Delaware 

12,143 

478,047 

11,783 

23,926 

22,384 

3,899 
30,953 

8,887 

Northern  States* 

506,422 

984,469 

962,571 

49,257        1 

Maryland 

51,339 

55,915 

107,254 

101,395 

8,043 

103,036 

Virginia 

116,135 

1  ]  0,936 

227,071 

215,046 

12,866 

292,627 

North-Carolina 

77,506 

69,988 

147,494 

140,710 

4,975 

100,572 

South-Carolina 

37,722 

35,576 

73,298 

66,880 

1,801 

107,094 

Georgia 

14,044 
;s  296,746 

13,103 

27,147 

25,739 

398 

28,083 

114 

29,264 

Atlantic  Slave  StaU 

285,518 

582,264 
32,211 

549,770 

632,593 

Kentucky 

17,057 

15,154 

28,922 

12,430 

Teunesseff 

10,277 

6,271 

16,548 

15,365 

361 

475 

28,558 

59,511 

3,417 

Western  Slave  Stat 

2S    27,334 

21,425 

48,759 

44,287 

15,847 

Total  Slave  States 

324,080 
802,127 

306,943 

631,023 

594,057 
1,556,628 

648,440 

Grand  Total 

813,365  1,615,492  j 

697,697 

*  There  were  no  inhabitants  in  the  North- Western  Territory  in  1790. 
f  Tennessee  at  this  time  was  not  a  stste;   but  was  called  the  South- Westcra 
Territory. 


INTERESTING  TABLES. 


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Mercator's  Chart  of  the  World,  to  face  title  page. 

The  Solar  System             -           _          .  page  17 

Map  of  North- America         -             -  -         72 

South- America             -           -  -         315 

Europe               -               -             -  369 

Asia             -             -             -  -         516 

Africa               ....  624 


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